When and how to harvest garlic. Secrets that many experienced gardeners do not know

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I read the TOP 10 articles on Yandex and Google, and also watched the first ten videos on how to understand when it’s time to dig up garlic. According to my observations, these recommendations are not always correct. There is also downright harmful advice.

In this article you will read about the exact signs of ripening of winter, summer and “elephant” garlic. You will also find out what advice you should not trust.

Spring and winter garlic. What is the difference

Garlic is divided into winter (winter) and spring (summer) garlic. These names reflect the time of planting of the vegetable.

Winter garlic

Winter ones are planted in the fall (before winter). It takes root before frost and waits in the soil for spring. It comes up when the ground thaws. Ripens in mid-summer.

Spring garlic

Summer ones are planted in early spring. It ripens in late summer - early autumn.

Is it necessary to rake away the soil from garlic heads and why is this done?

One of the techniques for growing bulbous vegetable plants, onions and garlic, is to unhill the heads in the garden. But you need to know why this procedure is needed and when to carry it out. The purpose of raking the soil from the heads of garlic is that the reception leads to the entry of solar heat and air to the underground part of the plant. It begins to ripen faster and become covered with protective scales.

They dig up the earth when necessary:

• cut off the arrows from the winter type of plant;
• tie the leaves in a knot;
• break the stem.

The technique of digging out the heads will result in the formation of larger bulbs. After all, the winter type of plant forms powerful and strong roots that help the vegetable survive the winter. In the first months of spring, garlic development and growth will be more successful if the vegetable crop has successfully overwintered.

The need to rake the soil away from the heads is to stop the roots from growing deeper in the summer.

After using the technique, the plant will begin to direct its forces to the growth of the heads. But you can’t loosen the soil too early. It is necessary for the above-ground part of the plant to become stronger. Large leaves of a vegetable plant indicate that it has enough nutrients, and the formation of cloves is successful. Then the method of exposing the garlic heads will benefit the plant.

What signs of ripening winter garlic are recommended in top articles and videos

In order to get a high yield of garlic, it is important not to rush to dig it up. It is necessary to give plants the opportunity to use all the time allotted by nature to maximize the growth of their heads.

If you are late in harvesting, the crop will not be stored well.

Recommendations in top articles and videos are not diverse. Here's what the authors advise:

• Harvest 100 days after germination
• Dig on the Feast of Peter and Paul (July 12)
• Focus on an experienced neighbor and do as he does
• Look by inflorescence. When the arrow straightens and the shell on the bulbs bursts, the vegetable is ripe
• Monitor when the head skin turns purple
• Pay attention to the condition of the roots
• Watch for leaves to dry out
• Dig when the plants go down.

Let's look at these tips carefully.

The feasibility of using the lunar calendar

For many years, some farmers coordinate the period when garlic should be harvested with the lunar calendar. It is believed that harvesting the vegetable on certain days, according to the movement of the moon, helps to extend the shelf life of garlic.

Additional Information! You can remove vegetables from the garden on the waning moon. If technical maturation has occurred, collection can be carried out at any convenient time, except for the days of the new moon and full moon.

You can rely on these signs, but do not forget about the need to regularly monitor the condition of the ripening vegetable so as not to miss the moment when it is ready. Moon movement indicators do not take into account how dry the weather will be or, conversely, too wet, which will cause the garlic to ripen faster or slower.

Recommendations that do not allow you to accurately determine the timing of garlic harvesting

Some signs have been known to gardeners since time immemorial. But they only allow you to roughly determine the correct time to harvest garlic.

Hundred Day Rule

According to this advice, harvesting is carried out exactly 100 days after the vegetable sprouts.

But different varieties have different ripening times. The early ones ripen after 90 days, and the late ones after 120.

The growth time is affected by the conditions of the year. In dry and hot summers it will ripen earlier. In rainy weather, the crop will grow longer.

The landing site can also make significant changes. If the bed is illuminated by the sun all day, it will ripen earlier. If the plant is in the shade for part of the day, the harvesting date is postponed.

And within the same variety, the harvest time for different plants differs. Small specimens are ready for harvesting earlier than large ones. Even when planted with cloves of the same size, the harvest will contain small and large bulbs. They will ripen at different times.

As a result, the ripening period of your crop may take 20 days, or even more.

Cleaning up for the Feast of Peter and Paul

Tying cleaning to one specific number is incorrect. In different regions, crops ripen at different times. And besides, other factors influence the ripening time.

Focus on an experienced neighbor. Clean when he cleans

This advice is not always correct. Your neighbor may have different varieties, planting dates, fertilizers, and growing techniques. A simple example. You mulched (covered with tree leaves or other organic matter) your garlic bed after planting in the fall. And they left the vegetable to grow under an organic “blanket”. But your neighbor didn’t cover the garden bed with anything. Then the neighbor’s land will warm up 7-10 days faster. And he will dig up the harvest earlier.

Cleaning times in different regions

The top articles describe in detail when to harvest garlic in different regions: in the Moscow, Leningrad, Nizhny Novgorod regions, in the Urals, in Siberia and even in Belarus. But these dates can only be a rough guide. They should not be used as a guide to action. The conditions of a particular year, the location of the bed and the techniques used by the gardener greatly change the ripening period.

The plants themselves will tell you the exact timing of ripening. And it doesn’t matter where you live - the culture signals its readiness for harvesting the same way everywhere.

Follow the arrows

The authors recommend leaving several arrows (peduncles) on the site, or one in each bed. As soon as they straighten and the shell on the inflorescences bursts, it’s time to dig up the crop.

Garlic inflorescence. The shell burst.

The question immediately arises: which arrows should be left as beacons? In different varieties they appear at different times.

And even if all the garlic is of the same variety, flower stalks do not appear at the same time. Every year I see that they, even in the descendants of the same plant, appear within 2-3 weeks. Accordingly, the arrows straighten and the shells on the inflorescences crack with a difference of 2-3 weeks.

If you left the very first arrows unbroken, then they will signal you in mid-July. The last ones were not cut off - at the end of July-beginning of August. The accuracy of such “signals” is out of the question - the range is 14-20 days .

Some arrows do not straighten completely at all. Even when the plant completely dries out and falls apart, the flower stalks remain bent.

The vegetable is ready for harvesting, but the arrow is not straightened

Not all inflorescences have a shell that bursts even when the garlic is ripe.

The garlic has already been removed from the garden, but the inflorescence has not burst.

If you leave two or three signal arrows, you may not even wait for the desired signal - straightening of the peduncle or when the inflorescence shell bursts.

Often you see a different picture. The arrows straightened, the shells on the inflorescences burst. But the plant grows quietly for another 2-3 weeks. At the same time, both the inflorescence and the head increase.

Dig up a few plants to determine if they are ready for harvest.

This technique allows you to determine the readiness of a crop for harvesting based on two criteria:

1. the peel has acquired a characteristic color for the variety - usually shades of purple
2. the roots begin to die.

It is worth considering that some varieties have white peel. Then you will not be able to determine whether the vegetable is ripe by the color of the onion.

The roots of ripened garlic change color from bright white to light gray. Some of the roots begin to die, they look wilted and even dried out. This means that the plant has finished growing and is going to rest.

The condition of the roots accurately indicates whether the plants are ready for harvesting.

The problem is that we only accurately determined the readiness for harvesting of the excavated specimens. We cannot look at the condition of the roots of all the other plants in the garden - they are in the soil. The garlic that was not dug up can be either underripe or overripe.

All the signs that I wrote about above can be used to determine the ripeness of the crop if you have a large garlic plantation. In this case, some of the plants will be either unripe or overripe.

For larger batches this doesn't really matter.

Recommendations for harvesting

It is necessary to know exactly not only when to remove garlic, but also how to do it correctly. Use the tips below from experienced gardeners to do it right.

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1. Focus on weather conditions. Choose a warm, clear and dry day
   for cleaning. Then the bulbs will dry out faster and are less likely to rot.
2. In rainy weather, avoid pulling out garlic. It is best to carefully dig it up and spread it on a dry surface in one layer. Do not throw it under any circumstances: the dents formed during the fall will lead to damage to the entire head.
3. Place garlic damaged during harvesting in a separate pile. It should be eaten immediately or, for example, pickled.
4. During the day, garlic is dried in direct sunlight, and at night it should be brought indoors.
5. When pruning the roots and tops, the main thing is not to damage the head, as this can lead to fungal diseases and infections.
6. After drying, sort the heads by size. Small garlic always has a shorter shelf life than large garlic, so it is primarily consumed as food. Planting material is selected from large garlic for the next year.

Accurate signs of ripe garlic for digging

If there are only a couple of beds of garlic, it is better to dig selectively and not all at once. We remove those plants that are ripe. And we leave those that are not ripe in the garden. This technique allows you to dig up all the plants at optimal ripeness.

I can easily cope with such crop harvesting on 3 acres. Applying selective cleaning to 1-2 beds is not a problem at all.

The leaves have dried out - a sure sign

Every article points to this sign. But how to apply it is completely unclear.

Someone talks about the beginning of yellowing of feathers (as onion leaves are often called). Others are about the beginning of drying. “Beginning” is 1-2 millimeters of the sheet or 3-4 centimeters?

Some recommend removing half the leaves when dry, others recommend removing almost all of them. And between these periods two weeks may pass. When exactly to harvest?

I dig up the garlic when the three lower feathers have dried out.

It should be borne in mind that the first sheet dries in June. By the time of cleaning, it may already fall off.

The bottom three leaves have dried up.

Why is this so?

For good storage, two conditions must coincide:

1. vegetable has finished growing
2. There are many scales preserved on the bulb.

The shells of the head have collapsed - the garlic will not be stored.

You can tell that a specimen has completed growth by looking at its roots.

But you don’t have to dig it up; you can see it in the feathers. Root death begins when the third leaf from the bottom has dried out. It did not turn yellow, but rather dried out.

If you dig up a plant with a yellowed but not yet dry third leaf, you will see that all the roots are still white and strong. This garlic could still grow.

The roots are all white - the garlic can still grow

When the leaf dries, grayish, yellowish and even dried roots appear. The root system began to die. It's time to dig.

The roots began to dry out - the garlic had completed its growth.

An important nuance . You can judge the state of the root system by the drying out of the third lower leaf if the arrow is removed as soon as it leaves the false stem. If the peduncle is left or removed late, the roots die later.

But you shouldn’t leave such plants in the garden - many bulb shells may collapse.

To understand how many covering scales have collapsed, you don’t need to dig it up either. This can be seen in the leaves if you understand how garlic plants are structured.

Garlic cloves grow inside a false stalk. It is formed from leaves that grow from the bottom. The glans shells are the lower parts of the feathers.

Garlic in section

While the leaf is alive, soil microorganisms do not destroy it, the peel remains intact. The feather has dried up - soil inhabitants begin to destroy the part of it that is in the ground.

In the photo: microorganisms destroyed the part of the leaf that was in the soil. The living parts of the leaves became visible - purple

The yellowed feather is still alive. Nutrients flow from it into the head. When this process is completed, the leaf dies and dries up.

If you see one bottom dried leaf, it means one shell of the head has already begun to collapse. Two dried feathers - minus two covering scales. The fewer wrappers, the worse the onion will be stored.

In the photo: 4 leaves have dried up - 4 shells are lost

If the soil is dry while the vegetable is ripening, the dead shells remain intact. With a lack of moisture, the activity of microorganisms is slowed down. But these scales have already lost their strength. Once the garlic dries, these shells will fall off when touched lightly. They are no longer of any use.

The neck of the plant becomes soft, the plants lie down

When garlic finishes growing, the roots stop working at full capacity. Less water is supplied to the tops and the plant loses turgor (it becomes not as strong as before). This is easy to understand if you feel the false stem near the ground (neck of the bulb). It becomes soft - as if empty.

In the photo: the neck of the bulb

How soft? To understand this, you need to adapt.

Feel the base of the false stem. Remember this feeling. Dig up this garlic and look at the roots. If they did not begin to die, then the neck was not soft enough.

Find a plant that has a false stem that feels softer (emptier) and also look at the roots. Through experimentation, you will learn to accurately determine by touch whether a vegetable is ready for harvesting.

And there is one “but” here . The method only works if you cut off the arrow as soon as it came out of the false stem. Then the peduncle will dry out and you will not be able to feel it inside the neck.

The arrow was removed in time - it dried up

If the arrow is cut off late, it does not dry out, but remains strong. You feel that there is a strong core inside the false stem. In this case, the neck of the onion does not become soft and the tops do not lie down.

Garlic is easily pulled out of the soil

“Under no circumstances should you pull garlic out of the soil. It needs to be undermined." This is the right advice if you do not harvest the vegetable selectively, but all at one time. Then some of the specimens turn out to be immature, and some are overripe.

In immature plants, the roots sit very firmly in the soil. If you try to pull it out without digging, you can tear off the false stem or bottom. This garlic will not be stored.

Overripe garlic roots do not hold the plant well in the soil. And the false stem has lost its strength and may break.

At proper ripeness, the bottom and false stem are still strong. And the roots already weakly hold onto the ground. Garlic is easily pulled out of the bed without a shovel, fork or other tool.

This method does not work if you have dense soil. It itself prevents the bulbs from being pulled out.

This is how I do it. I saw an onion ready for harvest. He gently pulled it up. If it doesn’t work out, I dig in.

When can you harvest garlic with arrows?

To propagate garlic, not only cloves are used, but also aerial bulbs - bulbs. They are also called "air".

Garlic fluff

In order to use the bulbs as planting material on the best plants, the flower stalks are not broken off.

Garlic plants with arrowheads approach the end of growth differently than plants whose flower stalks were removed in time. They need more time to mature. On average, they ripen 2 weeks later.

There are nuances here. We need to decide what is more important for us in such a plant - the head or the air.

If it is important that the head of garlic is well stored, we remove the specimen, guided by the drying of the three lower leaves.

If you need to get the largest possible air, we do it differently. We are waiting for the peduncle to begin to change color from bright green to dirty green with yellow tints.

A plant with flower stalks “thinks” not only about creating cloves, but also about growing flowers. Therefore, when the head is fully ripe, the roots of such a plant continue to work. And instead of leaves, a peduncle works. The formation of organic substances for the growth of bulblets (photosynthesis) occurs in it.

In this case, by the time of harvesting the head will fall apart into separate teeth. If we leave only a few inflorescences, then it’s not a big deal. The teeth can be used for food, first of all.

When to dig up garlic cloves

Single cloves are underground bulbs that are not divided into individual cloves. Such heads grow out of air.

Garlic cloves

The harvesting time depends on the time of planting the bulbs. If they were planted in the fall, the plants ripen in late June or early July. For spring planting - in September.

For the one-toothed fish, it is not so important to harvest each specimen at the optimal degree of maturity. This is planting material - it will not need to be stored in winter. Therefore, selective cleaning of single-toothed grass is not necessary. We harvest the entire crop at once.

A sign of readiness for harvesting is the lodging of all plants.

When to dig up summer garlic

Most spring varieties of the crop do not produce shoots; their false stems are softer than those of winter ones. When harvest time approaches, the plants bend over or lie down.

Lodging of garlic

In this state, the culture can still grow and enlarge the head. The exact time of readiness of each garlic is determined by the condition of the neck of the onion. Remove when it becomes soft.

If summer garlic has arrows, we determine it in the same way as for winter garlic.

When to dig elephant garlic (rocambole)

“Elephant garlic” on the English-speaking Internet is called hair onion. This plant of the onion family is very similar to garlic. It has the same head, false stem and similar leaves.

Elephant garlic

It differs from garlic in that it is much larger in size. Instead of bulbs on the peduncle, it has flowers - like onions. And from the bottom grow small one-toothed bulbs (they are called babies).

Rocambole kids

In Russia, such onions are called “rocambole”, or “garlic onions”.

The signs of readiness of this vegetable are the same as those of garlic - the condition of the lower leaves. For one-toothed “rocambole” - lodging of the tops.

When to harvest winter (winter) garlic

Winter garlic fully ripens exactly one hundred days after the formation of sprouts and seedlings. As a rule, this period falls on the third decade of July or the beginning of the last summer month - August. Ripening time depends on climate and weather conditions.

You can tell that garlic planted in the fall is already ripe by certain signs:

• The leaves located below begin to slowly dry out. At the same time, the upper elements acquire a slight yellowness. You especially need to pay attention to this sign if the arrows of the crop have already been cut off.
• The need to start collecting is also indicated if the shells of the air bulbs on the arrows burst. In their place, garlic seeds appear, which are also called bulbs. Such arrows are sometimes removed first to allow larger cloves to mature. But still, even in such a situation, it is customary to leave at least a couple of plants untouched for sowing.
• You can check the readiness and ripeness of garlic in this way: dig up the soil from a pair of garlic heads and, without pulling the head out of the ground, carefully examine their scales. If it is firm, somewhat dry and has a purple tint, then the vegetables are already ripe. When the fruit breaks into cloves, we can talk about its overripeness. Then you need to dig up winter garlic urgently and quickly.

How to dig up crops

The choice of tool for digging up garlic is limited to two options: a pitchfork and a shovel.

There are categorical statements: “Under no circumstances dig with a shovel, only with a pitchfork.” But, in fact, this is only a matter of convenience. There is no fundamental difference.

Both tools are not convenient for selective cleaning. It will not be possible to dig up one onion and not touch the neighboring ones.

I use a root remover. It is easy for them to dig up individual bulbs.

Root remover

You can use any other tool with a narrow working part.

Should the arrows be removed?

Before long-term storage, dry garlic shoots - shoots that have grown upwards - are removed. The optimal cut length of the neck: 6-10 cm, it depends on what form of storage is chosen:

• If you plan to store the crop in bunches, the cuttings are left 10 to 15 cm long. This makes it easier to tie several heads together.
• A short stem no more than 3 cm is convenient when the crop is placed in a hanging net, box or box. But the cover scale should be below the cut line, which will help avoid rot.
• The ancient method of storing garlic in braids involves the presence of almost the entire stem - both the arrow and the leaves.

After processing each head, all harvested garlic is ready for long-term storage. Before storing, it is recommended to sort the heads by size and take care of the cleanliness of the selected containers: sterilize the glass containers, sprinkle the bags with table salt (if you plan to keep the crop in a damp room - a cellar or basement), etc.

Small garlic cloves are often filled with oil and stored in the refrigerator. This garlic is convenient to use for dressing salads.

An experienced gardener will demonstrate how to tie a braid of garlic. See more details in the video:

Having taken care of the proper collection and storage of garlic, the entire harvest will be put to use without leaving a trace - sent for sale, used for preparing fresh dishes or canning. Harvesting garlic is not difficult; even novice gardeners who are doing this for the first time will not suffer losses.

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How to prepare garlic for winter storage

Preparation for storage involves drying and trimming the crop.

There is also controversial advice.

Do I need to wash garlic after harvesting?

One of the top videos has a recommendation: wash the garlic right as you harvest. The dug up heads are placed in a bucket of water, washed, and only then removed to dry.

As the author explains, damage from pests is visible on washed heads. We leave the damaged heads for use first.

And although there is some logic to this, I would not recommend washing garlic this way.

You cannot be completely sure that the plants are free from pathogens and pests (nematodes). If a vegetable is dirty, you will only see it when you wash it. Healthy specimens can become infected from sick ones.

If the dug up bulbs and roots are very dirty, then it is better to wash them differently. Place on nets, wire boxes or straw and water with a hose. This way there is less risk of infection of healthy plants.

It’s better not to wash it, but to let the culture dry thoroughly. Then the upper scales fall off with a light touch. The heads remain clean. You will clearly see the condition of the bulbs.

How to dry garlic for storage

The authors of articles on this topic do not have a common opinion. Some advise drying in the sun, others - under a canopy.

How to do it right?

It depends on how hot and sunny it is during the harvesting period. In my practice, I noticed that a crop left in the sun during the day can get burned. The pulp of the cloves becomes transparent with a yellowish tint. The vegetable is hopelessly spoiled.

The one-toothed fish was “cooked” in the sun.

This only happens if the day is hot and clear. If the day is cloudy, there is no risk of burns.

But even in a hot region on a sunny day, it’s not scary if the dug crop lies in the sun for a couple of hours in the morning or evening. At this time the sun is not so hot.

The soil on the roots dries out and is easy to remove. Then you need to finish drying it under a canopy, in an attic or other well-ventilated place.

When can you trim garlic after harvesting?

There is no need to rush with this technique. A sign of readiness for pruning is the complete drying of all leaves and arrows. When all the shells and peduncle are dry, no infection will get into the heads.

When to harvest spring (summer) garlic

Summer garlic crops ripen between the last two weeks of August and the beginning of autumn. It is at this time that you need to monitor the harvest as carefully and thoroughly as possible.

The signs of ripening summer garlic will help you understand the need to collect:

• Yellowing of stems and leaves of plants, their lodging;
• Drying of the root collar;
• When digging up a garlic bulb and carefully examining it, a fully formed head and clearly defined cloves are observed;
• Dense and dried garlic scales.

Harmful and senseless advice about harvesting garlic

While studying the top articles and videos, I discovered many “blunders” by the authors. Below I will give some such incorrect advice and explain why you should not follow them.

Favorable days for harvesting garlic according to the lunar calendar.

On one of the sites we read:

Ripe vegetables need to be dug up. If you wait for the correct day according to the lunar calendar, it will become overripe and will not be stored well.

The same website lists favorable days for harvesting winter and summer garlic in 2022:

For example, in the south of western Siberia, garlic is harvested in mid-July. Favorable days according to the lunar calendar are July 6, 7 and 25. It is too early to dig up the crop in the first period. In the second, it may be too late.

It is more important to harvest garlic when it is ripe, and not when the lunar calendar advises.

On which moon should you dig up garlic and why are some days favorable and others not? They write about this on another site.

In a developing plant there are no periods when the juices flow in one direction. Liquids always move both downward and upward at the same time. One vessel carries water and minerals from the roots to the tops of the plants. According to others, water and organic matter sink to the roots. You can read about this in textbooks on plant physiology.

When the garlic is ripe, the roots stop pumping water from the soil. Liquids move to storage organs - teeth and bulbs. Nutrients flow from the leaves and roots into the underground bulb and inflorescence. This happens all the time until the leaves and roots dry out. And not only on the days of the waning moon.

Is it possible to dig up garlic after rain?

If the garlic is fully ripe, then it urgently needs to be dug up.

Removing crops from wet soil is not convenient. But even worse is waiting for the ground to dry out. In wet soil, microorganisms will quickly destroy the bulb shells. The heads will fall apart into individual cloves.

Determine the ripeness of garlic by taste

The advice is meaningless. The taste of garlic at the time when it is a little under-ripe, at optimal ripeness and at a time when it is slightly over-ripe is the same.

You can taste very unripe garlic. It has not yet gained any spiciness - it has a mild taste. But at this time, tasting is not necessary - from the appearance of the garlic it is clear that it is not yet ready for harvesting. The scales on its teeth are thick and juicy. The teeth themselves are not fully formed.

If the cloves come off easily, the garlic is ripe.

At optimal ripeness, the vegetable is not so easy to separate into cloves. The onion wrappers are strong and there are many of them. The teeth in the head fit tightly.

The cloves of overripe garlic come off easily. There are few whole wrappers left on the onion. The teeth began to move away from each other. In this case, you are already late for cleaning.

The scales rustle and the flesh crunches

In the 30 years that I have been growing the crop, I have not seen rustling scales when harvesting garlic. Even if the ground is completely dry during harvesting, the shell of the head is slightly damp. And only when the vegetable dries well can you hear a characteristic sound.

The second sign is even more useless. Any housewife knows that garlic does not crunch only if it has dried out due to improper or long storage. Freshly dug garlic is crunchy in any case. Either unripe or overripe.

Loosening before harvesting

Two articles from the first page of Yandex recommend loosening the garden bed 2 days before harvesting the garlic.

I don't see any point in this advice. If the soil is dry, loosening will not change anything. If it's too wet, it will do harm. This technique is called “dry watering”. It allows you to retain moisture. But during cleaning we don’t need excess moisture.

Do I need to pick off the leaves of garlic?

Bad advice. When garlic is ripe, nutrients flow from the leaves to the head. Due to this process, teeth accumulate more nutrients and nutrients. Therefore, the plants are dried together with the tops, and only then trimmed.

How to trim garlic roots correctly

On one of the sites, the author explains in detail how to trim the roots of garlic.

This recommendation makes no sense. The crop will be stored the same regardless of root length . When preparing for storage, they die, dry out and subsequently do not affect the head in any way.

For bulbs intended for planting, the advice is even more useless. In a couple of months these heads will need to be taken apart. The roots, along with the bottom, will go to waste, and certainly will not affect the future harvest.

How to properly harvest and store garlic

Garlic can only be harvested in dry weather. In winter crops, they cut off the arrows and dig up the bulbs a little, easily pulling them out of the ground. In this case, you need to carefully shake off the remaining soil from the fruit. Vegetables need to be laid out in rows to dry. On dry days, you can leave the garlic in the fresh outdoor air for several days. But at night it is better to remove it. In case of downpours and rains, the fruits are dried under canopies.

If there is a prolonged drought, then before you start harvesting garlic, you need to moisten the soil. Otherwise, when shaking off dry earthen lumps, you can accidentally tear off the roots along with the bottom.

You also shouldn't throw in garlic. It is most advisable to carefully stack the fruit and move it carefully without causing dents. Otherwise, rot will form on the vegetables.

After such drying, the vegetables need to be laid out in one layer in a room that will be well ventilated. It should take another two to three weeks before final drying. At the next stage, it is necessary to cut off the roots and stems without touching the bulbs. This will avoid many diseases.

It is necessary to store the harvest of summer and winter garlic only in dry rooms where there is plenty of fresh air. The humidity in these places should be no more than eighty percent. Large vegetables have a longer shelf life. For this reason, it is recommended to use small garlic first