Columnar apple tree: planting and care, pruning and propagation, description of varieties and photographs

Columnar apple tree is a natural clone of an apple tree that does not have side branches. In British Columbia, in the village of Kelowna (located in Canada), an unusual branch was found on an old McIntosh apple tree, which was 50 years old, or rather, it had an unusually large amount of foliage and fruits and there were no side branches at all. This happened in 1964. This spontaneous mutation did not go unnoticed by breeders and was propagated. Over time, with the help of it, experts created columnar apple trees. At the same time, both English breeders from Kent and specialists from other countries worked on this plant. In 1976, the first samples of this type of apple tree were obtained.

Features of a columnar apple tree

Scientists have found that such unusual characteristics of the columnar apple tree directly depend on the special Co gene. In these plants, the branches extend from the trunk at an acute angle, and they grow almost along the conductor. In this regard, such apple trees are similar in appearance to pyramidal poplars. Such an apple tree has a thickened trunk on which many small branches grow, and flower buds are located at their tops. The skeletal branches of simple apple trees are much more powerful than the lateral branches of columnar apple trees. Often they are replaced by spears, fruits or ringlets. The shoots of such a plant are quite thick, and they have shortened internodes. Dwarf varieties are less prone to branching compared to medium-sized varieties (1.5-3 times) and tall varieties (3-4 times). After the tree is 3–4 years old, its side branches stop growing. In the event that the apical bud is injured, the plant’s growth will stop, but the side branches will begin to actively grow. In this regard, those gardeners who want to grow a columnar apple tree must do everything to ensure that the plant’s growth point is maintained at least for the first 2 or 3 years. Such an apple tree will begin to bloom and bear fruit at the 2nd or 3rd year of life. The harvest in the first 5–6 years becomes more abundant every year, but already from the 7th–8th year of the plant’s life it is consistently high, but this is only the case when the apple tree is properly cared for. A columnar apple tree bears fruit for no more than 15–20 years; after this period, most of the ringlets die off. But if you are growing strong or medium-growing varieties or a tree that has been grafted onto seed rootstocks, then in these cases anti-aging pruning can be used, which can significantly extend the life of the apple tree.

Apple trees such as columnar ones are ideal for owners of small gardens. So, instead of one ordinary apple tree, you can plant several dozen columnar ones. There are 2 different types of columnar apple trees:

varieties that have the Co gene;
simple varieties that were grafted onto superdwarf clonal rootstocks (they are formed as columns).

Columnar apple tree. How to avoid fakes?

Features of the structure of the tree and its fruiting

The columnar apple tree is a small pyramidal tree. The main thickened trunk, as it grows, becomes overgrown with small branches with flower buds. The lateral branches are most often replaced by fruitlets, spears and ringlets. Vigorous varieties reach 3 meters in height, dwarf varieties grow up to 2 meters. The crown diameter is 30-50 cm.

Columnar varieties have a compact, shallow, fibrous root system. This must be taken into account when processing the tree trunk circle. Loosening of the soil is superficial, to a depth of 10 cm.

If agricultural practices are followed, the yield is high. Fruiting occurs at 2-3 years of age. Up to 12 kg of fruit is removed from an adult specimen. Until the age of 8, the yield improves; when it reaches 10 years, it begins to fall. The fruiting period for columnar varieties is 15 years. After this period, the tree lives, but does not bear fruit.

Columnar apple trees are not planted in single copies. A single planting will not bring the desired result, and will also not look attractive. Different varieties of columnar and tall apple trees are planted as pollinators. The main condition when creating an apple orchard is the coincidence of the flowering period.

Planting columnar apple trees

What time to plant

Experts advise planting this kind of apple tree in the spring, but you need to have time to do this before the buds begin to open. If desired, you can plant a seedling in open ground in the autumn in the last days of September or the first days of October, the main thing is that the weather is warm. For planting, it is recommended to purchase annual seedlings rather than biennial ones. The fact is that such plants take root relatively easily and begin to grow and bear fruit much faster. When choosing a seedling, you need to pay special attention to its roots, so there should be no rot on them. Trees with overdried roots should also not be purchased. It is best to buy a seedling in a container; it can be planted even in the summer. A suitable area should be open and sunny, but it should be remembered that such an apple tree requires protection from strong gusts of wind. The soil needs to be saturated with nutrients and well-permeable to water. Groundwater on the site must lie at a depth of at least 200 centimeters.

Planting a columnar apple tree in autumn

If you decide to plant a large number of columnar apple trees at once, they should be arranged in rows. Thus, the distance between seedlings in a row should be at least 50 centimeters, while the row spacing should be 100 centimeters. Planting holes, which must be at least 90x90x90 centimeters in size, must be prepared half a month before planting. If this is not done, then after planting and settling the soil, the root collar will be located underground, and this can lead to the death of the seedling.

When digging a hole, you need to discard the top layer of soil, which contains a larger amount of nutrients, separately from the bottom layer, preventing them from mixing. If the soil is heavy, then at the bottom of the hole it is necessary to place a layer of crushed stone mixed with sand for drainage. After this, add 3 to 4 buckets of humus (compost), 100 grams of superphosphate and 50 to 100 grams of potassium fertilizer into the fertile soil and mix everything. It is also recommended to add 100 to 200 grams of dolomite flour into acidic soil. This soil must be poured into the planting hole and its surface leveled. After half a month, the soil will settle and become compacted.

After 2 weeks, you need to pour the remaining soil mixture into a heap into the planting hole. After this, you need to install the root system of the apple tree directly on this “hill” so that the root collar of the seedling rises slightly above the surface of the area. After the roots are straightened, you need to pour infertile soil (from the bottom layer) into the hole and compact it well. Step back 30 centimeters from the trunk and form a roller around it, the height of which should be from 10 to 15 centimeters. The planted tree should be watered, using 10–20 liters of water. After the liquid is absorbed into the soil, its surface should be sprinkled with a layer of mulch (sawdust, peat or chopped grass). If desired, you can install a support next to the seedling and tie it up.

How to plant a columnar apple tree in spring

If the planting of columnar apple trees is planned for the spring, then it is recommended to prepare the planting holes in the autumn. During the winter, the soil will settle, become compacted, and the applied fertilizers will dissolve. Apple trees planted in such holes take root much faster, and they may even bloom in the same year. You need to plant a seedling in the spring in the same way as in the fall.

Planting a columnar apple tree

Planting on the site

Before planting, you need to study the procedure that is performed during planting apple seedlings.

Timing of planting work

It is recommended to understand the timing of planting work in advance. Experts advise planting apple trees in the spring, after the soil has warmed up. Most often this is done in the second half of April or May. Spring plantings promote abundant flowering of the plant.

Site and soil preparation

Having decided on the time of planting, they begin to prepare the site and soil. First, the area is dug up with a single bayonet shovel. This is done to loosen the soil so that it better allows moisture and air to pass through.

Then fertilizing is applied to the dug area. Experts advise adding peat, dolomite flour and river sand to the soil. Some people use compost to help their trees grow better.

Schemes and distances for planting seedlings

Before planting apple trees, holes are dug in the area. The size of each hole should be 60-70 centimeters, and the depth reaches 50-65 centimeters. Holes are dug not near each other, but at a distance of 90-110 centimeters. You cannot dig holes too close, as in the future the seedlings will shade neighboring trees.

Landing technology

After digging the holes, you can plant columnar fruit trees. However, before this, all seedlings are soaked in warm water for 24 hours. This procedure not only disinfects the root system, but also stimulates its further development. Also, instead of ordinary water, they use a clay mash in which the roots of the apple tree are soaked.

The soaked seedlings are placed in a vertical position in planting holes. Then they are covered with soil so that the root system is completely underground.

Caring for planted seedlings

Planted seedlings are immediately watered with warm water so that they grow faster. They are also fed with organic fertilizers 1-2 weeks after planting. Humus, chicken droppings and wood ash are added to the soil.

Caring for columnar apple trees

Care in spring

In spring, it is necessary to prune apple trees and treat them for the purpose of prevention against various harmful insects and diseases. You need to have time to perform these procedures before the kidneys open. At the same time, fertilizers containing nitrogen must be added to the soil.

From apple trees planted this year, you need to pick off all the buds that form. In plants of the second year of life, only 10 buds are left. Starting from the third year of life, the load on the tree should not be increased immediately, but gradually, so that 2 times more buds are left on the plant than the number of fruits that should ripen. So, on each fruit link there should be 2 inflorescences, and thinning is done again in the summer.

Also, columnar apple trees must be watered in a timely manner and the top layer of soil around the trunk must be loosened. However, in the case when the tree is grown on a columnar rootstock, the roots of the plant may be injured in the process of loosening the soil. In this case, it is recommended to tin the tree trunk circle rather than sprinkle it with a layer of mulch. To do this, you need to step back a quarter of a meter from the trunk and sow green manure grasses in a circle, which will need systematic mowing.

Summer care

By mid-June it is necessary to carry out complex fertilizing, for which mineral fertilizers are used. After the ovaries form, it will be necessary to thin them a second time. As a result, ½ of the ovaries should remain on the tree. After the fruits are similar in size to cherries, you need to make sure that there are only 2 ovaries in each inflorescence. When the apples are similar in size to a walnut, you need to remove one of the two remaining ovaries. As a result, only 1 fruit should grow on 1 fruit-bearing link.

In the summer, do not forget to carry out preventive inspections of apple trees. If any harmful insects are found or the plant becomes sick, then it is simply necessary to take timely measures to treat it or get rid of pests, otherwise you may be left without a harvest. 4 weeks before the scheduled date of fruit harvest, all treatments of the plant against harmful insects and diseases should be stopped.

With the onset of August, organic fertilizers, as well as those containing nitrogen, cease to be applied to the soil. At this time, it is recommended to apply only potassium fertilizers to the soil, because they promote faster ripening of young shoots. To ensure that the upper parts of the shoots do not suffer from frost in the winter, it is necessary to shorten the 4 leaves located at the very top by 2/3.

Autumn care

In the autumn, when the fruits are harvested, it is necessary to add fertilizer to the soil and carry out treatment against harmful insects and fungi that have taken refuge in the bark, as well as inside the soil around the trunk. If necessary, it is necessary to prune for sanitary purposes, and then prepare the trees for wintering.

Processing columnar apple trees

At the beginning of the spring period (before sap flow begins) and in the autumn (when the leaves fall), these apple trees must be treated to prevent diseases and harmful insects. The surface of the tree trunk circle should also be treated. Most often, gardeners in this case use a solution of Nitrafen or Bordeaux mixture (1%). This treatment will help get rid of harmful insects and pathogens of various diseases that are found in the soil of the tree trunk and in the bark of the apple tree. There are those gardeners who use a urea solution (7%) for treatment in the spring, which acts as a fungicidal and insecticidal agent, as well as a nitrogen fertilizer.

Watering

Due to the fact that this kind of apple tree does not have a tap root, which goes deep into the soil, and at the same time the root system is surface and is located within a radius of a quarter meter from the trunk, then young plants need to be watered in the summer in normal weather once every 3 days . In dry and hot weather, columnar apple trees should be watered every day or once every 2 days. Watering mature plants should be carried out 1 or 2 times every 7 days. From the second half of June, watering is slightly reduced, and from the beginning of August these plants stop watering altogether, the fact is that they must have time to complete the formation of flower buds, as well as growth, and also prepare for wintering.

To prevent the soil from drying out too quickly and to prevent a dense crust on its surface, the tree trunk circle is sprinkled with a layer of mulch (straw) or it is seeded with green manure. It is recommended to water such apple trees using the drip method, and the supply of moisture to the root system should be dosed. However, once every 4 weeks it is necessary to water abundantly so that the soil can get wet to the depth at which the roots lie. Once every 2 weeks in the evening after the sun has set, you need to thoroughly water the crowns of the plants with a hose.

Fertilizer

Since this tree produces a very large number of apples, it absorbs a lot of nutrients from the soil. In this regard, such a plant should be fertilized throughout the entire period of intensive growth. In spring, organic fertilizers need to be added to the soil. For this purpose, both fermented chicken manure and slurry are used. In order for the tree to receive the required amount of nitrogen, you can spray it with a urea solution (7%), but this must be done at the beginning of the spring period, before the buds begin to open. After this, before the beginning of the second half of the summer period, if desired, the plants can be fed 2 more times using the foliar method and also use a urea solution (0.1%).

During the peak of intensive growth (from early to mid-June), trees need complex mineral fertilizers. From the beginning of August, organic fertilizers should no longer be used for fertilizing. During this period, columnar apple trees need potassium, as it promotes rapid ripening of the upper parts of the shoots.

Wintering columnar apple trees

At the beginning of the autumn period, the trunks of young columnar apple trees must be thoroughly covered with spruce branches or wood shavings. It should be remembered that only dry covering material should be used, and it should be protected from the penetration of rodents. You cannot cover plants with straw. If the tree trunk circle is mulched with straw, then it should be removed in the fall, because various rodents simply adore it. When the snow cover appears, you need to hill the base of the apple tree trunk with snow.

How I cover columnar apple trees for the winter

Carrying out pre-landing activities

Flowerbed with hydrangea - bush planting scheme

Before planting a columnar apple tree, you need to carry out preparatory measures.

Conditions

Depending on the region, you should select the variety and planting location. If climatic conditions do not allow growing such apple trees outside, you can plant them in a closed greenhouse. Thanks to its small size, it is possible to organize a real mini-garden.

Columnar apple trees need to be planted in sunny places

When to plant columnar apple trees

Apple trees of this variety should be planted in the spring before buds begin to bloom. The soil should have already warmed up by this time. If planting is done in the fall, you need to calculate at least a month before the onset of frost. The tree must have time to take root and get used to it.

Seedling storage

The roots should not be allowed to dry out during storage. It is recommended to bury the seedling and water it. You can prepare wet sawdust, place the roots in it, and moisten it periodically.

Planting plan

The plan will be individual for each variety. It is necessary to take into account not only this, but also the rootstocks on which the seedlings are grafted.

Determining a favorable place

The landing site must be protected from drafts and strong winds. It is best to place trees near fences and buildings.

Pit preparation

You can plant an apple tree in:

trenches. Its dimensions should be: width 45 cm, depth 50 cm;
landing holes. This option is suitable for a small number of seedlings. The pits need to be prepared at least 20 days before planting. The size must be dug according to the root system.

Important ! Organic and mineral fertilizers must first be added to the pit. This includes peat, ash, humus, superphosphate.

The planting pattern can be varied depending on the size of the plot.

Root treatment

Before the planting procedure, the roots must be immersed in warm water for 15 hours. This is necessary to stimulate growth. After this, you need to prepare a clay mash and dip the roots into it before planting.

Pruning columnar apple trees

What time is pruning done?

A real columnar apple tree should not have branches; therefore, pruning to form the crown is not required. Only the side branches are pruned at the very beginning of the summer period or after all the leaves have fallen.

How to prune a columnar apple tree

You should remember one of the main principles of pruning an apple tree - the more branches you trim, the more intense their growth will be. So, for example, you cut a branch by about ½ part, and at the same time there were 3 or 4 eyes left on it. After some time, 3 or 4 strong shoots will grow from these eyes. If you cut off 1/3 of the branch and there are 7 or 8 eyes on it, then 7 or 8 medium shoots will grow from them. If pruning is done correctly, then every year the apple tree will grow by 10–15 centimeters, and 2 or 3 lateral buds will appear.

When you prune the branches, do not forget that you should not touch the central conductor. Otherwise, having lost its growth point, the tree will begin to actively grow branches.

At the beginning of spring, all the side branches of a tree of the first year of life should be cut off so that only 2 buds remain on each of them. In the next 2 or 3 years, it is necessary to form fruit links from young shoots. It is recommended to carefully trim those side shoots that are not needed while they are still green. The fact is that healing of wounds on woody shoots takes relatively longer.

Spring pruning

Pruning a columnar apple tree

Before sap flow begins, formative pruning should be done. For plants of the first year of life, all lateral branches must be pruned, leaving 2 buds on them. Sanitary pruning is also carried out, during which diseased, intersecting branches, as well as those affected by severe frosts in winter, are removed.

The tree of the second year of life is pruned to form fruit links. To do this, of the 2 shoots that grew on last year’s cut branch, you need to cut off the one that is more vertical, leaving only 2 buds on it. A horizontally located shoot will begin to bear fruit this year, and from a pruned shoot 2 powerful shoots will appear.

In the third year of life, those branches that bore fruit in the previous year must be removed. With the remaining branches, the same pruning procedure should be performed as last year. It should be remembered that the fruit link can function for no more than 3 or 4 years. After this period, it should be cut into a ring.

If the apical point of growth dies, it is recommended to trim the conductor, leaving only 2 buds. Wait until lateral branches grow from them. Of these branches, only 1 should be left, and it should be located vertically. This branch will become a replacement for the conductor. The remaining side branches must be cut into a stump (not into a ring), and the stumps must have the same length as simple ringlets.

Autumn pruning

In autumn, pruning should be done only when it is really necessary.

History and distribution of the compact apple tree

This type of tree was first found by a summer resident from Canada about half a century ago. He was surprised by the non-standard type of apple tree: it was a voluminous straight trunk, which, instead of the usual side branches, was covered with small fruit-bearing shoots. He noticed that the shoots gave a large harvest, and grafted the cuttings of the find onto an ordinary apple tree.

Thus, thanks to a stable mutation, in 1964 the initial variety of columnar apple tree was launched, which was given the name “Vazhak”. The amazing tree quickly attracted the attention of summer residents, which led to the active breeding of different varieties with apples of various sizes and flavors. Breeders have found that the original unique characteristics of the apple tree can be passed on from generation to generation with seeds.

Modern columnar apple trees have the following characteristics:

the height of an ordinary tree is 2.5 m, girth - 0.5 m;
absence of oblong additional branches;
rapid fruit ripening;
different subtypes of trees: miniature, medium and vigorous.

Such an apple tree can become covered with inflorescences already in the first season after transplantation if the soil is regularly fertilized. Previously, columnar tree varieties were grown only in corporate gardens, but nowadays they appear in many summer cottages.

Sale of seedlings in pots along with fruits

Reproduction of columnar apple trees

To propagate columnar apple trees, the method of grafting a varietal cutting onto the rootstock that is most suitable is used. However, in order to successfully perform such a procedure, experience is required. You can also propagate by seeds, but this will take too much time and require a lot of effort. And not all apple trees that grow from seed are columnar. Experts advise propagating such a plant by air layering. Select a branch at the very beginning of spring, the thickness of which should be similar to a pencil. Then a circular cut of the bark is made at the base, the width of which should be 5 mm. After this, you need to moisten the cotton wool in Heteroauxin and wrap it around this incision for 24 hours. Next, moistened peat should be used to wrap the incision, while this place is covered with a black polyethylene bag, it is fixed so that no air gets under it. Do not let the peat dry out completely. In autumn, roots should grow at the site of the cut. After this, the branch is separated from the parent plant and planted in the soil. The probability of success of such reproduction is 50:50.

Growing seedlings of this type of apple tree is not an easy task. In this regard, it is recommended to buy them from trusted nurseries, and the seedlings must be transported correctly.

How to buy the right seedlings

The first step to creating a good apple orchard with a rich harvest is purchasing the right “source material”. It is best to choose planting material in a nursery or specialty store. Sellers at markets, and even more so private traders selling seedlings on the streets, are able to pass off one variety as another or even sell a pear instead of an apple tree.

To avoid deception and buy a reliable seedling, you should adhere to the following expert advice:

Buy a seedling that has a tag indicating the variety and age of the plant. If asked, a reliable seller will include with your purchase a written document containing information about the region of cultivation, resistance to cold, fruiting period and other data.
Choose seedlings with hidden roots. Plants that are sold with the root system in the ground will be stored longer before planting and will take root better on the site.
Inspect the container in which the seedling is sold. It is necessary to find out whether the tree was moved there before sale or whether it originally grew there. In the first case, there is a risk that the seedling will not take root.
Purchase annual seedlings. They adapt more easily than two-year-olds; they begin to grow and bear fruit sooner.
Such plants do not have lateral shoots, the stem length is 60-70 cm, and there are 5-6 buds.
Keep the roots in a moist environment until planting. Immediately after purchase, the root system is placed in a humid environment if the plant was purchased with bare roots. They are wrapped in wet thick fabric and covered with film on top.

If a summer resident purchases a tree with a root system accessible for inspection, it is necessary to check each root. There should be no swelling or lumps on them, they should be elastic and smooth. You can scrape one root and examine the tissue: if it is white and alive, then the seedling is in order.

Important! The ideal purchase option is to come to the seller’s dacha plot, choose the seedling you like on the plot and ask to dig it up. This way you can inspect the roots on site, which should not have injured fragments or growths.

Fruit ovaries on a columnar apple tree

Prices for columnar apple tree seedlings

columnar apple tree seedlings

Pests of columnar apple trees

Columnar apple trees may well be inhabited by green and plantain aphids, sawflies, glass beetles, red mites, codling moths, moths, leaf rollers, copperheads, comma scale insects, currant, fruit and subbark leaf rollers, fruit and fruit moths, various cutworms, rowan moths, gypsy moths, oakleaf and ringed silkworms, blood and red gall aphids, goose weevils, western gypsy bark beetles, sapwood, pear pipeworms, as well as other pests. In the fight against harmful insects, you can use insecticidal agents, and catching belts made of corrugated paper are also useful (they prevent pests from going up the trunk).

Prevention of diseases and pests of young seedlings

For seedlings, the following pose a great danger:

codling moth;
aphid;
Schlechtendahl mite.

To control pests, it is necessary to carry out treatment with Fitosporin. For the winter, tree trunks must be wrapped in film to prevent damage by hares and mice.

By following the recommendations and adhering to the guidance of gardeners, both during planting and during care, you can grow a tree that will begin to bear fruit even before it turns five years old.

Diseases of columnar apple trees

Such apple trees suffer from exactly the same diseases as ordinary ones. Most often, the columnar apple tree suffers from diseases such as: proliferation, or witch's broom, bitter fruit rot, mosaic, mosaic ringing, fly beetle, powdery mildew, milky sheen, tinder fungus, common cancer, scab, dying branches, fruit rot, subcutaneous viral spotting, rubberiness, rust, glassiness of fruits, flattened branches, black cancer and cytosporosis.

Popular varieties

Like all types of apple trees, columnar apple trees are divided according to ripening periods into early (summer), autumn and winter.

Early

Popular columnar varieties of summer apple trees:

Autumn

Autumn varieties that have received good ratings among gardeners:

Malyukha;
Ostankino;
Chervonets;
Moscow necklace;
Vasyugan;
Amber necklace.

Winter

Varieties of winter columnar apple trees:

Main varieties with photographs and descriptions

The division of varieties is carried out depending on their growth, namely, they are divided into vigorous, medium-sized (semi-dwarf), and also dwarf. They are also divided according to the time of fruit ripening into late (winter), mid-season (autumn) and early (summer). Below are varieties divided by ripening time.

Summer varieties

On these plants, ripe apples can be harvested from the last days of July to the first days of September. Such fruits are eaten fresh or used to make preserves, jams, compotes, etc. The shelf life of such apples is relatively short.

The most popular varieties:

Nectar

This semi-dwarf variety is characterized by high yield and resistance to frost, diseases and harmful insects. Yellowish-white apples have a fairly thick skin, as well as juicy and grainy flesh with a distinct honey taste. On average, each apple weighs 100–250 grams. Plant height can vary from 200 to 250 centimeters.

The president

This semi-dwarf compact variety is characterized by high yield and resistance to frost, harmful insects and diseases. The fruits are very fragrant, pale yellow or pale green, in some cases they have a slight light pink blush. On average, apples weigh from 150 to 200 grams. The fine-grained pulp is juicy and tender.

Vasyugan

This productive variety is resistant to frost, harmful insects and diseases. The shape of the red-striped fragrant fruit is conical, the taste of the pulp is sourish-sweet, and it has clearly visible subcutaneous points. The cream-colored flesh is distinguished by its softness and juiciness. On average, the weight of the fruit is 140–200 grams.

Dialogue

The medium-sized variety is characterized by productivity and resistance to frost, pests and diseases. The deep yellow apples are not very large in size, but they are quite juicy. The shape of apples is flat.

Ostankino

The medium-sized variety is resistant to harmful insects and diseases. The fragrant, sour-sweet fruits have a light green color with a blush that has a fuzzy, blurry shape. Juicy apples can weigh from 100 to 220 grams.

Also quite popular among gardeners are such varieties as: Chervonets, Luch, Ideal, Raika, Flamingo, Gala, Cheremosh, Iksha, Green Noise, etc.

Autumn varieties

Fruit ripening on plants of these varieties occurs throughout the autumn period. They are eaten fresh or made into various preparations for the winter. Such apples are stored for a relatively short time (maximum until January). Popular varieties:

Malyukha

This dwarf variety is one of those that have the highest taste. The truncated-conical shape of dessert apples is large in size. They are painted orange-yellow or deep yellow and weigh from 150 to 250 grams. The durable, glossy skin is quite thin, and the yellow, fragrant flesh is fine-grained. This variety is high-yielding and early-bearing.

Gin

The variety is characterized by productivity and resistance to frost. The rich red fruits can weigh 80–200 grams. The sweet and sour pulp is firm and juicy. Apples can last until January.

Triumph

Medium-sized variety. The apples have a rich dark red color and have a striped blush on their surface. The shiny peel is quite dense. Snow-white crispy fine-grained pulp. It has a dessert sweet taste with a slight sourness. On average, apples weigh 100–150 grams.

Arbat

The variety is characterized by high yield and resistance to frost, harmful insects and diseases. The fruits ripen in the last days of September or the first days of November. Rich cherry color, medium-sized glossy apples with sour-sweet juicy flesh. The average fruit weight is from 100 to 120 grams.

Iedzen

This vigorous variety is resistant to scab and is winter-hardy. There are red streaks on the surface of yellow apples. The average fruit weight is 150 grams. The fine-grained, dense yellowish-green pulp has a sweet and sour taste. The taste is high.

Also quite popular are varieties such as: Kumir, Ladoga, Titania, Teleimon, Melba, etc.

Winter varieties

The ripening of apples of these varieties occurs in mid-autumn. They can last until spring. The following varieties are popular:

Amber necklace (amber)

The medium-sized variety is characterized by productivity and resistance to frost. Large greenish-yellow apples have a blush. The fine-grained, fragrant pulp is juicy and sour-sweet.

Currency

A medium-sized, early-fruiting variety, characterized by high yield, resistance to frost and scab. The fruits are large (weighing approximately 200 grams) and have a rich yellow color with a red side. The snow-white, sweet, juicy pulp is quite fragrant.

Moscow necklace

This self-sterile variety is characterized by high yield and resistance to frost, harmful insects and diseases. The fruits are quite large and dark red. The peel is dense. The sweet, juicy pulp has a slight sourness. On average, apples weigh about 170 grams.

Bolero

The fruits are large and their average weight is about 200 grams. The firm white flesh is juicy.

Reasons for lack of fruiting

The columnar apple tree, unlike ordinary ones, according to the description, refers to crops of intensive development and is distinguished by early flowering and early fruiting. It begins to bloom and bear the first harvest in the second or third year of life.

In the fifth and sixth years, the largest number of apples is obtained, noting an active increase in yield indicators, which falls after the tree reaches eight years.

The age at which such an apple tree can bear fruit is on average 15 years.

The lack of flowering and fruiting may be due to a number of reasons:

low quality seedling. In this case, you have to wait quite a long time for the first harvest from it, even if all growing conditions are met;
excessive branching. In the absence of proper pruning when forming the crown, especially if the integrity of the growth point on the central conductor is damaged, apple trees actively grow lateral branches and form a crown, spending all their energy on maintaining new shoots. As a result, the trees do not bloom or bear fruit;
there is not enough power. When adding mineral complexes, some gardeners forget about the need to feed columnar apple trees with organic matter, which should be alternated with the use of ready-made fertilizers. It is better to introduce organic matter into the tree trunks in the fall;
freezing. The reason for the lack of fruiting is often the freezing of the apical bud. This can be determined by the cessation of growth of the central conductor and the active growth of lateral branches;
wrong choice of variety. A variety of columnar apple tree not zoned for certain climatic conditions requires longer adaptation. Low winter hardiness is one of the reasons for the delay or complete absence of fruiting.

Foliar feeding of foliage using urea (20 g per 10 liters of water) and timely removal of flower stalks can correct the situation, make the tree bloom and increase productivity. To improve the quality of pollination, beneficial pollinating insects are attracted by planting flowers around the perimeter of the garden.

Trimming and shaping

Most often you can see columns with one trunk, but some experts recommend forming a tree with two or even three trunks. This is necessary in regions with cold winters in order to insure in case the apical bud of one of the trunks freezes out.

To prevent the tree from losing its shape, it is necessary to prune regularly. This procedure begins to be performed when the seedling reaches two years of age. Since the tree grows from the apical bud of the trunk, and strong branching is not necessary, it is not advisable to form a crown. All pruning consists of shortening the side shoots in the spring and simply regulating their growth in the future.

For what year does the apple tree bear fruit after planting? How long does it take for an apple tree to bear fruit?

It is not only the type of tree that determines the timing of fruiting; it is also influenced by the climate of the area and weather conditions.
The apple tree prefers dry and warm summers; too much moisture will never benefit the tree. In rainy weather, the roots receive an excessively large amount of water, which significantly slows down the growing season. That is, the apple tree will begin to bear fruit at different times, even if the two trees are of the same variety, but under different weather conditions. If you are just planning to plant apple trees, then you should take a closer look at varieties that are early-bearing, that is, they begin to bear fruit for the first time before many other apple trees. This does not affect the appearance or taste of the fruit in any way; the only difference is in the timing. Therefore, you should pay attention to the following varieties:

1. “People’s” apple tree. The fruits of this tree are not very large, beautiful yellow, slightly golden in color, with a strong aroma and sweet taste, which contains a slight sourness. The variety can be called early ripening, since apples can be harvested by the end of summer. After you plant a seedling, next year there may be several apples on it. It’s too early to talk about a big harvest, but you can still see the result of your efforts. And every next year the apple tree will bear more and more fruit.

2. “Zhigulevskaya” apple tree will give you golden apples with reddish barrels of sweet and sour taste. The harvest is carried out in early autumn; the apples are round, slightly flattened on top and bottom. Starting from the fourth year after planting, the apple tree will delight you with fruits, and the harvest will increase every year, reaching its peak in the 8th year. Experienced gardeners say that this year you can harvest about 20 kg of apples from each apple tree.

3. The “lingonberry” apple tree produces red, slightly elongated apples. Harvesting takes place a little later, in mid-autumn. The apples are small, their weight, as a rule, is no more than 100 g, but you will reap the first harvest three years after planting the tree. This variety has an undoubted advantage over many others, since it is frost-resistant, the apple tree bears fruit consistently, and is unpretentious to the composition of the soil and environmental conditions.

There are other varieties of apple trees that begin to bear fruit no later than 4 years after planting, these include White Naliv, Renet, Borovinka, Volzhskaya and Candy apple trees, as well as many others. All of the above varieties can be planted in the south of Russia, in the middle zone and in more northern regions. With proper planting and good care, the apple tree bears fruit exactly on time, and perhaps a little earlier.

Growing columnar apple trees

The undoubted advantage of these apple trees is their high planting density. Therefore, in a very small area you can grow trees of several varieties with different periods of fruit ripening.

Cultivation is complicated by the demands of columnar plants on the soil. You will have to fertilize and feed the apple tree at least once every two weeks. It is advisable to combine the first spring and last autumn fertilizing with treatment against diseases and pests.

Also, it is necessary to provide the tree with regular watering, since the roots are located close to the surface. The plant especially needs watering during flowering and ovary growth.

In the first year of planting a seedling, it is advisable to pick off the flowers that appear, sacrificing the potential harvest. This will make it possible to direct the main forces of the tree to good rooting. But next year the apple tree will thank its owner with a bountiful harvest.

The tree trunk circle must be kept in perfect order: constant weeding and garbage removal are required.

Harvest

Harvesting is not difficult, since the height of columnar apple trees does not require special equipment. Harvesting begins according to the variety. Immediately after sorting, the harvested crop is placed in storage (basement, cellar) in separate small containers, boxes and other containers. For winter storage, the optimal temperature is +2.. +3 °C. Varieties with a short shelf life are used for processing (juices, compotes, jams, etc.).

Part 1. Columnar apple trees - features and best varieties
Part 2. Features of growing columnar apple trees

Purchase of planting material

Despite the abundance of offers, it is not easy to find high-quality kolinka seedlings. The best trees are those formed on dwarf rootstocks. They gain the minimum possible height and begin to bear fruit faster, but their creation is a complex and expensive process. The fact is that columnar scions are not compatible with all dwarf rootstocks, and “suitable” rootstocks need to be specially grown. Many sellers do not have this kind of information and sell seedlings that cannot meet the expectations of buyers.

In our country, planting material of decent quality is offered by only a few nurseries operating on the basis of scientific institutes, and it is very expensive

If you decide to purchase columnar apple trees for your dacha, contact only nurseries that have a long-standing positive reputation. Try to choose plants at least 70-80 cm tall with a closed root system . Such trees will be able to please you with a harvest in the second year after planting.

How to propagate a columnar apple tree

Reproduction of columnar varietal apple trees is a troublesome task. Therefore, the best option is to buy a ready-made seedling from a nursery. But such an opportunity is not always available, therefore, you can try to get a high-quality core seedling yourself, and for this you will have to work hard. Columnar fruit trees are propagated in the same ways as ordinary ones. There are several options:

grow a new tree from seeds;
graft onto the rootstock;
get air layering.

Propagation by seeds takes too long, and besides, seeds do not always grow into a tree that carries all the useful and necessary qualities of the parent tree. In this case, you will have to spend a lot of effort and time growing seedlings. This method is not popular among specialists, since it gives a high percentage of the probability of obtaining substandard seedlings that will not be carriers of the Co gene.

Experienced gardeners most often use grafting of a varietal apple tree onto a rootstock. In nurseries, Paradise or Malysha Budagovsky rootstocks are often used as rootstock material. In a private backyard, you can try to take an ordinary local seedling. Vaccination does not guarantee that the graft will take root. It is especially risky to vaccinate without experience in this matter.

The best option for a gardener with little experience is to get layering. Columns can be propagated by air layering. This method does not require any special skills, and the offspring obtained in this way acquires all the characteristic varietal characteristics. In this case, the maternal specimen is minimally injured. This is a vegetative method of propagation, which will help to obtain offspring with one hundred percent inheritance of all parental qualities.