Growing cucumbers in a greenhouse: planting, watering, feeding, tying, diseases, harvesting

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Yakov Pavlovich

Professor, Head of the Department of Vegetable Growing

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Growing cucumbers in polycarbonate greenhouses allows you to get maximum yield. The crop bears fruit well in open ground, but in a greenhouse the yield increases significantly. This is due to the optimal microclimate, protection of plantings from weather conditions, and the ability to control humidity and temperature. If you plant cucumbers as seedlings rather than seeds, water them in a timely manner, and do planting, this will increase the profitability of cultivation.

Features of growing in greenhouse conditions

Growing cucumbers indoors has its own characteristics:

the possibility of cultivating long salad cucumbers that are not suitable for open ground;
carefully monitor the quality of the soil, since in a limited area the amount of nutrients is quickly consumed by plants;
annual soil replacement or planting catch crops after cucumbers to prevent the development of diseases;
obtaining a harvest at any time of the year, regardless of the climate;
with the vertical growing method, the color of the fruit is uniform;
absence of the likelihood of mechanical damage and the influence of weather conditions on the growing season of cucumbers.

Growing conditions

In order for cucumbers to enjoy a bountiful harvest, it is important to provide the necessary growth conditions, including:

Feeding. It is important to remember that there should not be more than 4 of them per season.
The right climate. Ventilate the greenhouse not only on sunny days, but also on cloudy days, otherwise the plants will become sick due to excessive air humidity.
Loose soil. It should be crumbly, soft and allow air to reach the roots.
Mulching. Sawdust, like dried grass without roots and seeds, will prevent moisture from evaporating too quickly, and will also protect ripe fruits from contact with the ground and subsequent rotting. In addition, mulch is sprinkled on exposed roots.

The correct watering and fertilizing regime are important conditions for growing cucumbers.

Proper watering. A ripe cucumber consists of more than 90% moisture, so it needs a lot of water during the growth process.

Vegetable growers recommend:

3-4 days after planting, water only the lower part of the plant for half a month to help the development of normal roots. Flooding is not recommended to avoid rot;
Until the day the first ovary appears, frequent moistening is not required; once every few days is enough. Once the ovaries appear, watering should be daily, using settled water. It should not be directed at the leaf plates, so as not to provoke rotting or burns through the drop lenses;
the use of low-temperature moisture can cause the ovaries to fall off.

Important! If you put water in buckets in advance and leave it near the bed with cucumbers, by the time of watering it will have time to warm up, and the air in the greenhouse will never be dry.

The correct garter is also important. The twine is tied around the plant in a loose loop and left. If pulled tight, it will be difficult for the stem to gain thickness. As the vine grows, it is led around the rope, always pointing in one direction.

Necessary equipment

To grow cucumbers indoors, two conditions are important: a suitable greenhouse and its equipment. When choosing a shelter, please note that polycarbonate greenhouses have more advantages than those based on film or frame. They are easy to transport, rearrange and assemble, wear-resistant, have minimal influence of weather conditions, and are more airtight.

The size of the shelter must be at least 10 square meters. m, and the height is about 2 m. It is not recommended to build a higher greenhouse, since maintaining the microclimate in it will be problematic due to the large layer of air. But a lower height when growing cucumbers is also unacceptable. This is due to the fact that cucumber vines, if placed vertically, will not have enough space; their length can exceed 3.5 m.

The choice of location for installing the greenhouse is of great importance. It should be a flat surface or a small hill so that groundwater does not flood it and cause mold to appear.

The greenhouse should be installed in a north-south direction to optimize the receipt of natural sunlight and heat.

Problems with plants

When growing cucumbers you may encounter certain problems. One of them often occurs is yellowing of leaves.

If this happens in the middle of the season, it means the plant does not have enough nitrogen. It is necessary to add 200-300 ml of nitrophoska under each bush at the rate of 2 tsp. fertilizers per 3 liters of water.

Another problem that you may encounter is that ovaries do not form. This may be due to several reasons: lack of pollination, heat, excess nitrogen, and the use of last year's seeds.

Another problem is when plants, especially leaves, begin to wilt.

Greenhouse preparation

After choosing a location and installing the shelter, preparatory work should be carried out. They consist of the following activities:

Inspecting the greenhouse for cracks and eliminating them. This will protect the cucumbers from the negative effects of drafts.
Be sure to treat the inside of the shelter with an antifungal compound to avoid contamination of the soil and seedlings.
Consider the location of the beds and choose the method of their formation. Most often, longitudinal rows are placed along the shelter. Their width is approximately 50 cm, and the passage must be left at least 90 cm. If the size of the shelter allows, you can use a location method that involves building a shortened bed in the middle with a circular passage and 2 rows along the length of the sides of the greenhouse.
Cucumbers are a heat-loving crop, so depending on your plans for growing them, you may need to organize a heated floor under the beds to warm the soil when growing cucumbers year-round.
It is advisable to install containers with water in the shelter, which will perform 2 functions: warming up during the day, giving off heat at night and being a source for irrigation with warm water.
Provide a ventilation system. These could be additional windows or an automatic ventilation system. Moreover, the location of the vents on the roof and along the walls under the ceiling makes it possible to ventilate the room without drying out the soil, as happens when opening a door and a vent on the opposite wall.

When to plant

As soon as the seedlings have produced 3-4 leaves, they are transferred to the greenhouse. It is better to do this in May. It is not dangerous to place seedlings in a polycarbonate greenhouse even in the first days of the month. It is important that the day is warm (about +25°C) and sunny. If it is cool outside, the greenhouse will have to be heated artificially.

With the onset of warm weather, the seedlings are transferred to the greenhouse.

Choosing the right variety

Growing cucumbers indoors means that pollinating insects will not have access to the plant's flower stalks. Therefore, for this case, choose varieties that can self-pollinate or those that do not need pollination at all - parthenocarpic. These properties are indicated on the seed package.

It is important to distinguish cucumber varieties from their hybrids. When planting varietal types of vegetables, their properties will be repeated from year to year, and it is possible to obtain your own seeds from the most successful harvest.

When using hybrids, self-collected cucumber seeds do not carry the properties and qualities of the previous harvest. This means that hybrid seed must be purchased annually.

Let's consider some varieties and hybrids suitable for growing in shelter:

Adam F1. A hybrid from Holland with the ability to self-pollinate and obtain a rich, early-ripening harvest. The first vegetables can be harvested after 1.5 months, and the fruiting period is quite long. Under favorable conditions, cucumbers are tied in 5-7 pieces. in one node. The fruits are small in size, dark in color with small spines. Suitable for preparation and fresh consumption.
Herman F1. A wonderful hybrid of Dutch selection. Very early, with a long fruiting period. Small cucumbers develop in bunches of 6-7 pieces. The fruits are juicy and dense. The hybrid is resistant to temperature changes and diseases. Good fresh and canned. Planting in open ground and greenhouses is possible.
Son-in-law F1. Parthenocarpic hybrid. Fruits develop in nodes of 3-7 pieces. up to 10 cm long. Can be harvested at any stage of maturity. Cucumbers are delicious, yield up to 6 kg per plant. Resistant to powdery mildew and root rot. Adaptable to sudden changes in weather conditions.

In addition to the presented species, it is possible to sow seeds of the following cucumber varieties: “Metelitsa”, “Prestige”, “Ararat”, “Tatyana”, “Fed Papa”, “Everyone is Envy”, etc.

Advantages of greenhouse vegetable growing

Cucumbers are undoubtedly one of the most common and favorite vegetables among gardeners. Along with growing this crop in open ground, the use of greenhouses is becoming increasingly common. And this is not surprising. Compliance with correct agricultural technology is a big plus for the greenhouse option of growing cucumbers in front of open ground.

Advantages of greenhouse cultivation:

the yield from the same area is several times higher;
possibility of getting an early harvest;
extension of the growth of this vegetable in the middle zone until the beginning of October;
the use of cucumber varieties zoned for the southern regions.

Using the right varieties of cucumbers and the technology of cultivating them in a greenhouse, and special technical means to maintain optimal temperature and humidity, it is possible to grow this vegetable all year round in the middle zone.

If desired, by growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, gardeners can obtain the harvest for personal consumption and start a fairly profitable home business.

The only disadvantages can be considered the financial costs of manufacturing or purchasing the greenhouse itself and investing a lot of physical effort.

You can grow cucumbers in a heated greenhouse all year round

Soil preparation

For sowing cucumber seeds, it is preferable to use peat pots rather than reusable containers. This is due to the fact that the crop does not like replanting when its root system is disturbed.

Soil for filling seed containers can be purchased in specialized stores and departments. This soil mixture will be disinfected and has a special composition suitable specifically for growing cucumbers.

The second option for obtaining soil for planting seeds is to prepare it yourself. To do this, take the following ingredients and mix them thoroughly:

turf - 1 part;
compost - 2 parts;
peat - 1 part;
sand - 1 part.

Such a soil mixture should be subjected to a disinfection procedure before use. To do this, you can use one of the options:

heat it in the oven at a temperature of 170-180 degrees for 20 minutes;
process in a special steam generator for half an hour;
dilute 15 ml of Fitosporin in 10 liters of water and pour over the soil.

After processing, it is necessary to add fertilizer to the planting mixture to enrich it with nutrients and elements. For 10 kg of soil add:

wood ash - 200 g;
phosphorus fertilizers - 50 g;
potassium sulphide - 35 g.

After thoroughly mixing the mixture, it must be moistened. High-quality soil is ready for sowing cucumber seeds.

Watering cucumbers

As already mentioned, the best watering is drip irrigation. It provides the best option for supplying moisture to plants. The water should be settled and warm.

In addition to using a special device for drip irrigation purchased in a store, you can do this watering yourself using plastic bottles.

If the weather becomes especially hot, then watering must be increased. If the water you use is hard, then it must be softened by adding wood ash: 5 tsp. for 10 liters of water.

If it is not possible to organize drip irrigation, then using a hose, it is advisable to make a spray of water, like in a watering can.

It is recommended to combine watering with fertilizing.

Properly preparing seeds for sowing

Seed material purchased in factory packaging does not require additional preparation. If the seeds are collected independently or purchased in another way, then the following preparatory procedures must be carried out:

Selection. From the total mass, select the largest and most identical in shape. Prepare a saline solution from 1 tsp. salt and a glass of water. Dip the selected seeds into it. Remove those that remain on the surface. The rest - rinse with clean water and dry until flowability is restored.
Disinfection. Prepare a slightly pink solution of manganese and dip cucumber seeds in it for 15-20 minutes. You should not make a more concentrated solution or keep the seeds in it for longer than the prescribed time. This will lead to burns of the seed and render it unusable.
Instead of manganese solution, you can use Fitosporin-M or Gamair-SP.
After processing, rinse the seeds with running water and dry.
Impact of temperature. To speed up germination, place the seeds in a bag and warm them near a heating device. The reverse method is also good - place the seeds in the refrigerator for a day.
Germination. Line a shallow plate with several layers of gauze. Distribute cucumber seeds over its surface and moisten well. Cover the top with a wet cloth. Make sure that the lower and upper material does not dry out.

Problems likely to occur when growing cucumbers

There are several of them. Let's consider each separately, as well as the reasons and possible solutions. So:

The branches of the lower part are drying

This happens due to lack of moisture in hot summers. Compared to the problems with the lower tier, the upper one looks quite normal and even pleases with the ovaries. We proceed as follows:

little by little, day by day, remove the leaves from below;
roll the stem into a ring and lay it on the ground;
carefully “fasten” it to the ground with a wire fork so that the top, with all the leaves and flowers, remains higher;
We provide watering and maintenance.

In diseased plants, the ovaries turn yellow and fall off long before they fully ripen.

After a while, the deep part of the stem will begin to grow a root, and everything will return to normal.

Ovaries do not form

Bundle varieties of cucumbers, like hybrids, produce abundant harvests. Each node contains up to 7 ovaries, but some may turn yellow and fall off before they begin to grow. There are several reasons for this:

too humid and/or hot;
there are less than 10% male flowers on the bush;
a large number of ripe fruits on the vines;
insects do not arrive and pollinate plants due to bad weather;
few nutrients in the soil.

The first problem can be solved by reducing watering and ventilation. The last one is feeding with a mixture of cow dung and urea, and when it comes to adult cucumbers, you just need to remove them on time. This is done daily as the fruit grows.

Important! Do not allow cucumbers to grow more than 12 cm in length and 5 cm in thickness. When the lashes are covered with green giants, all the nutrition goes to them, so new ovaries are not formed.

Fruits grow poorly

A “poultice” will help: on a sunny day, water the greenhouse, as well as the plants and soil, and then close it for an hour. Ventilate carefully, without drafts.

Poultices should be used with caution.

Bitter taste

This happens even with normal watering, and the culprit is the substance cucurbitacin, which is responsible for the taste. Its volume in a vegetable is determined by growing conditions, characteristics of the variety, and duration of ripening.

Important! The longer the period from pollination to a full-fledged cucumber (the norm is 8 to 12 days), the more bitterness it will contain.

Growing seedlings

After selecting the container, preparing the soil and seeds, you can begin directly planting the seed material for seedlings. To do this, follow the work algorithm:

Place a drainage layer on the bottom of the peat pots and fill 3/4 of the pot with prepared soil on top. Place the container in the tray and moisten.
Make a hole in the middle of the pot, about 1cm deep, and place a couple of seeds in it. Cover them with soil, slightly compacting it.
Using a sprayer, moisten the soil surface with water and cover with glass or plastic film.
Transfer the pots to a sunny windowsill or other place with a temperature range of 25-28 degrees.

Remove glass or film daily, moistening and ventilating the crops. This will prevent mold from appearing on the surface of the soil.

Moisten the soil not by watering, but by spraying water using a spray bottle.

Correct temperature conditions are important for seed germination. Shoots appear after 5-6 days at a temperature of 27-28 degrees. When leaves appear, you should adhere to a daytime temperature of 19-22 °C, and at night - 15-17 °C.

When the first leaf forms on the seedlings, fertilize with a solution of complex fertilizer.

Make sure that the plants do not stretch towards the light source. To do this, rotate the containers periodically. As the plants grow, move them away from each other so that the shadow created does not interfere with their quality development.

How and when to plant cucumber seedlings is described in more detail here.

Pre-landing preparation

When buying seeds, look on the packaging for information about what kind of pre-treatment they have undergone. If there is no information, it is recommended to do it yourself.

Checking the quality of seeds with salt water

Seeds

We start with calibration - selecting the material most suitable for planting. This is definitely worth doing when the seeds are from the market or prepared on your own. Store-bought ones are calibrated before packaging, so they do not require additional selection. So:

Step 1: select the largest, evenly colored, light and even seeds;
Step 2: get rid of deformed specimens, as well as dark, small and stained specimens.

Alternative option:

Step 1: To facilitate the process, pour the contents of the bag into a solution of table salt (3 g per half glass of water) and mix. After 15 min. specimens will surface that are better to part with. The method is suitable for seeds that are not older than 2 years. “Sunken” material is what you need.
Step 2: Remove it and immerse it in a 1% manganese solution, rich purple in color, for half an hour to disinfect. Afterwards we rinse with water.

Antimicrobial treatment can also be carried out using special preparations such as Baksis and Fitosporin-M. Any of them is diluted with water and the seeds are poured for 1.5-2 hours, after which they need to be dried.

Important! There is also a method called soaking. It speeds up the emergence of seedlings, but washes away the antibacterial layer that covers store-bought seeds. In addition, a decrease in soil temperature, as well as its dryness, can be detrimental to “wet” seeds. For this reason, the method is suitable for growing seedlings indoors, but is not recommended before sowing directly into the garden bed, when warm weather has not yet established.

Prices for Fitosporin

Fitosporin

The soil

It also needs preparation, since the volume and quality of the harvest largely depend on the characteristics of the soil, which should:

be characterized by high fertility;
have good moisture absorption capacity;
give a neutral acidity indicator.

Prepared soil is the key to a rich harvest.

The optimal soil is considered to be one that contains peat, field soil and humus in a ratio of 5:2:3. Experienced gardeners advise adding pine sawdust.

The soil must be cleared of roots and grass, and also disinfected. To do this, use a 7% solution of copper sulfate.

Important! It is believed that cucumbers grow best in beds whose height is 0.25 m, and the surface is formed in the form of alternating ridges.

Preparing soil in a greenhouse

Cucumbers grow well on loose and fertile soil, which retains moisture and is breathable. This is why fruits cannot be obtained on clay or sandy soils. The former are not able to allow the necessary air to pass inside, and the latter soils dry out too quickly, conducting water into deeper layers.

Things to consider:

If the predecessors of cucumbers in the greenhouse were melons or pumpkins, then it is better to replace the soil with a new one, because it is depleted in nutrition and there is a high probability of common diseases and pests. It is advisable to plant cucumbers after cabbage, carrots, potatoes, onions, and peppers.
It is necessary to prepare greenhouse beds in the fall. Remove all plant debris and dig up the soil, adding humus or compost 1 bucket per square meter. m. With this option, you can forget about organic fertilizing for 2-3 years, using only mineral fertilizers.
Another solution to replenish nutrients when digging up beds in the fall is to distribute them per square meter. m of land 2 tbsp. l. superphosphate and 1 tbsp. dolomite flour (can be replaced with wood ash). In the spring, 2 weeks before planting seedlings, add peat, sawdust, humus to the soil, and dig shallowly again.
To prevent cucumber diseases, be sure to treat the surface of the beds with a solution of copper sulfate. To prepare it, dissolve 1 tbsp in 10 liters of water. l. drug. Consumption rate - 1 liter per 1 sq. m.
A good solution is to plant green manure in the fall, such as leaf mustard. Before frost, dig up the beds along with the plants. Over the winter they will undergo decomposition, enriching the soil with nutrition and disinfecting it.

An important nuance for growing cucumbers is warming up the soil. If there is a warm base of the beds, seedlings can be planted at any time of the year. If there is no such equipment in the greenhouse, then there are 2 solutions: wait for the soil to naturally warm up or insulate it with organic matter:

To do this, remove the top soil layer to a depth of 15-20 cm, lay down straw, spread humus and compost on top, and fill the soil layer back.
Spray the beds with hot water and cover with dark film. As organic matter decomposes, it releases not only nutrients, but also the heat the seedlings need. These events are carried out several days before planting the seedlings.

How and when to harvest

How to grow cucumbers in a greenhouse early? Harvesting cucumbers in a greenhouse depends on the variety . The earliest cucumbers in the greenhouse form ripe fruits within 30-35 days after emergence. For later cucumbers, 45-50 days pass from planting to harvest.

How long does a cucumber bear fruit in a greenhouse? There are varieties with an extended fruiting period, allowing fruit to be cut throughout the season. There are also hybrids with a bouquet type of ripening . They produce many small cucumbers in one bosom; ripening proceeds smoothly and requires cutting at the same time.

It is better to cut cucumbers early in the morning. The fruits are torn off by hand or cut off at the very base so as not to damage the lashes or tear off the leaves. The plants are fragile, injured bushes stop growing and stop bearing fruit.

How many cucumbers can be harvested from 1 square meter of greenhouse? The yield of cucumbers per 1 sq m (square meter) in a greenhouse is approximately 30 kg , based on the calculation that 5-7 kg will be harvested from one bush. Greenhouse cucumbers grown in fertile soil have a pleasant, rich taste, they are beautiful and healthy . Planting and caring for cucumbers in a greenhouse is not such a difficult process that you should give up on them. Even novice gardeners can grow cucumbers in a greenhouse. And growing early cucumbers in a greenhouse will replenish your body with vitamins.

By experimenting with varieties and properly caring for plantings, you can achieve stable yields . We told you all the secrets about growing cucumbers in a greenhouse.

Transplanting

In greenhouses, without additional heating, plant seedlings no earlier than the end of May, when the soil temperature inside reaches 14-16 degrees, so that the weak roots do not freeze, but can adapt to new conditions. To measure the level of soil warming, lower the thermometer into the soil to a depth of 20 cm for 30 minutes in the morning.

Cucumbers can be planted in heated shelters as soon as 4 leaves have formed on the seedlings. This occurs approximately 35 days after sowing the seeds.

The most commonly used scheme for planting cucumbers in a greenhouse is:

two rows of cucumbers are placed in a longitudinal bed;
the distance between neighboring bushes in a row is maintained at 30-40 cm;
seedlings in one bed, but in adjacent rows are planted in a parallel or staggered order, keeping a distance between them of at least 50 cm;
the hole should be strictly under the trellis, or stretch a cucumber net between the rows.

Algorithm for planting seedlings in a greenhouse:

Moisten the soil in the beds with hot water.
Make holes and distribute peat pots with seedlings over them. The recess should be such that the upper edge of the container protrudes above the surface of the ground. Lightly compact the soil.
Sprinkle a 2-centimeter layer of peat with sawdust on top, mulching the root part of the plants.
Do not water the planted seedlings for 2 days.

Watch a video about planting cucumber seedlings in a greenhouse:

Features of planting and caring for cucumbers in polycarbonate greenhouses: how to grow a rich harvest

Using greenhouses made of cellular polycarbonate, you can start growing cucumbers as early as March. The heat loss in them is less than in film greenhouses and it is easier to create additional heating. The advantage is that in polycarbonate greenhouses, seeds can be sown directly on beds with biofuel - this reduces the cost of preparing seedlings. And the plants themselves will be spared from temperature adaptation - during the growth process they get used to low temperatures. Using seeds of early varieties, planting seeds in the ground begins in early March. After 21 days, the sprouted sprouts are picked and planted in a permanent place of growth.

Optimal conditions for the growth of cucumbers

For high-quality growing season of cucumbers, it is necessary to create and maintain a microclimate with certain conditions, as well as carry out agrotechnical work in a timely manner.

Watering

Cucumbers need regular watering of the beds, but make sure they do not become waterlogged. Warm the water for the procedure in the sun or take it from containers located inside the greenhouse. If you water with cold water, the crop will become infected with rot and spots.

If the temperature of the irrigation water is too low, a narrowing of the middle part is noticed on the fruits, and the cucumbers become deformed.

After watering, loosen the soil to prevent the formation of a crust on the surface. It will become an obstacle to the path of air to the root system and will serve to more quickly lower moisture into the lower soil layers. This procedure will also help cover the roots washed out as a result of moisture with soil. Mulching helps to retain moisture in the beds for a long time.

Sprinkling is very important for the crop. It consists of generously spraying the green part of the plant with water. Thus, the liquid flows slowly to the root system, allowing the cucumbers to better saturate themselves with moisture. In addition, the humidity inside the greenhouse increases, which has a beneficial effect on the plants.

Feeding

Be especially careful when fertilizing the soil in a greenhouse, since the formation of ovaries and the ripening of fruits directly depends on this. Keep in mind that an excess of mineral components in the soil is just as undesirable as their deficiency. Calculate the total volume of fertilizer applied per season, including limiting substances and mineral supplements. The number of procedures for adding nutrition to the soil for cucumbers should not exceed 5.

With a lack of nitrogen on the fruit, a narrowing of the tip and a change in its color to yellow are noticeable. If there is a deficiency of potassium in the soil, pear-shaped cucumbers are formed.

Cucumbers respond especially well to the addition of infusions of chicken manure, humus and mullein. To prepare food, mix 150-200 g of organic matter and 10 liters of water. Leave in a warm place to ferment for 2-3 days, stirring the mixture occasionally. Add 30 g of superphosphate. The distribution rate of the infusion is 1 liter per 1 sq. m of beds or for 4-5 plants.

During flowering, add 30 g of potassium salt to this infusion.

The amount of mineral nutrition per 10 liters of water (per 1 sq. m) in different phases of cucumber growth is slightly different:

before fruiting: ammonium nitrate - 5-10 g;
superphosphate - 20 g;
potash fertilizers - 10 g.

during fruit formation:

ammonium nitrate - 20-25 g;

superphosphate - 20 g;

potash fertilizers - 20 g.

Fertilizers can be applied by root and foliar methods. It is advisable to carry them out in the evening or in cloudy weather.

Light mode

A 10-hour daylight hours is sufficient for the growth and development of cucumbers. When the amount of light decreases, the growth rate decreases significantly. Therefore, in the absence of sunlight, due to weather conditions, it is impossible to do without the use of phytolamps or other sources of artificial lighting.

Temperature

Cucumbers are very dependent on the temperature in the greenhouse. So, in different phases of growth it is necessary to maintain different levels of heat:

planting seedlings - 20-22 degrees;
flowering - 25-28 degrees;
fruiting - 25-30 degrees.

At temperatures from 17 to 19 degrees and from 35 to 40 degrees, the formation of ovaries does not occur.

Critical temperatures for cucumbers:

growth cessation - 15 degrees;
cessation of growth - 10 degrees;
death - 7-8 degrees.

Humidity

Cucumbers are very demanding on the level of air humidity, so it should be maintained between 90 and 95%. When this indicator decreases, the ovaries stop forming and the cucumbers slow down their development.

Ventilation

The ventilation procedure is necessary to prevent the spread of diseases, especially rot, which develop in a humid, warm environment. In addition, this provides additional access to clean air into the greenhouse. Ventilation helps reduce the air temperature on hot days to the required level.

Bush formation

Shaping helps to avoid bush thickening and optimize its productive qualities. Cucumber plantings become not only beautiful, but also evenly illuminated by the sun, accessible for aeration, and convenient for various agricultural work. This procedure involves pinching the shoots and tying them with the further direction of the head lash.

It is important to remember that all manipulations to form a cucumber bush are carried out strictly before the onset of the flowering period. When the first flowers appear, any work related to moving the lashes is prohibited.

The need to form a bush is explained by the following arguments:

If there is excessive branching, the root system cannot cope with saturating the entire plant. As a result, the fruits become deformed and their taste deteriorates.
Dense vegetation does not allow air to penetrate through the greenery. This negatively affects fruiting and creates a favorable environment for pathogens of various diseases.
Weeding, loosening, spraying and watering are more convenient when cucumber bushes are formed.

Pinching (pinching)

Pinching helps reduce leaf mass for a more active and longer fruiting period. Removing canes with male flowers that do not bear fruit stimulates the development of female fruiting inflorescences. The quantity of harvest and its quality increases.

To perform the procedure correctly, you need to be able to distinguish male and female flowers from each other:

female inflorescences are formed in pairs, and barren flowers are formed in 6 pieces;
the stem of the female flower is longer than that of the male;
ovaries are present only on female inflorescences.

Pinching is not carried out only on specially bred hybrids that have a single-wattle development or do not produce an excessive amount of barren flowers.

For self-pollinating varieties, leave enough male flowers so that their number with female ones is approximately equal. For parthenocarpic varieties, the presence of male inflorescences is not required.

The pinching procedure after tying cucumbers goes like this:

When forming the 5th leaf, all shoots and tendrils located below it are removed.
When 7-8 leaves appear, a pair of shoots are left from the central stem.
After the 11th leaf, the tips of the shoots are pinched, provoking their peripheral development and ovaries. On each shoot, 3 leaves and 3 ovaries are left.
Parthenocarpic varieties are formed, leaving one stem. When it grows to 50 cm, the tendrils, flowers and branches are removed, and the lateral shoots are pinched down to 1 leaf.

Pinching forms the bush in the form of an inverted pyramid.

Tying up

Tying cucumbers is done to:

the lashes did not interlock with each other using whiskers;
the process of plant care and harvesting was simplified;
the bush had enough sunlight for the entire plant part.

These measures make it possible to horizontally grow cucumbers and form a bush. Mechanical damage to vines and fruits and their rotting on the ground are prevented. You should start tying when the seedlings in the greenhouse grow to 30-40 cm. At this time, the vine is still flexible and does not break when its position changes.

To carry out garter work you will need:

wooden or iron supports;
strong, taut wire;
trellis net for cucumbers;
garters made of long strips of cotton or nylon fabric about 3 cm wide.

You should not use thin laces or wire to tie cucumbers, as they will pinch the stem as they grow. Disinfect all garter material by boiling or bleach before use.

You can purchase special plastic garters. Their clamping is adjustable with notches and can be used repeatedly.

Formation of a cucumber bush

Any plant produces additional shoots or branches during its growth. For plants growing in the wild, this determines their branchiness or bushiness. In cultivated plants, side shoots also create the size of the bush. However, as these plants subsequently bear flowers and fruit, the growing additional shoots begin to take away nutrients, which can lead to a poor harvest. Therefore, during growth it is necessary to form a bush. The most commonly used method is pinching, i.e. removing emerging shoots.

In addition, when constructing a greenhouse, the installation of special devices for tying cucumbers is also organized. These could be trellises, or they could simply be ropes descending vertically from the ceiling to which plants cling.

The process of forming a bush can begin after 8-9 new leaves appear on the stem.

In order for growing cucumbers to be even and large, it is necessary to leave the most well-developed fruits somewhere in the 5-6 axils, and remove the rest. In the 7th sinus the entire ovary is removed, and in the 8th sinus a few fruits must again be left.

When the stem reaches the roof of the greenhouse, it is pinched. This is done over the second or third leaf on the main stem, which are located after the fruit. But many gardeners, in order to get a larger harvest, do not pinch the plant that has reached the top of the greenhouse, but lower it down. As a result, the bush grows towards the ground, where it is then pinched.

The video below shows the entire process of correctly forming a bush.

Diseases and pests

It is reckless to assume that closed soil protects cucumber plantings from pests and various diseases. This means you need to know what dangers threaten the harvest and how to deal with them. The following diseases are common:

White rot. A fungal disease characterized by the presence of a light, almost white, coating not only on the fruit, but also over the entire surface of the bush. It spreads quickly, destroying plants. The fungus persists in the soil. Control measures involve destroying affected plants and changing the soil.
Gray rot. Identified by slippery gray spots on the surface of fruits, flowers and ovaries. At the first stage of infection, spraying with a solution of copper sulfate 1 tsp is carried out. and 1 tbsp. ash per 5 liters of water. The drug "Barrier" is effective. When the disease is in an advanced state, only radical methods can help.
Root rot. Drying leaves, changing the color of the plant, and the appearance of cracks on the stems are all signs of infection. Rot can be caused by planting seedlings too deeply, excessive watering, or cold water when moistening. Sprinkle the areas affected by the fungus with crushed chalk or wood ash and dry. Do not allow moisture to enter the plant when watering. Dead plants are destroyed by fire, and soil is removed from the holes by spilling a solution of manganese or copper sulfate. Afterwards, the hole is filled with new soil.
Powdery mildew. It is characterized by the appearance of a white coating, first on the leaves of cucumbers, and then on the stems. The fungus actively spreads in warm and humid conditions, so if it is detected, treat the cucumbers as soon as possible. The preparations “Topaz” and “Zaslon” have an effect against powdery mildew. Their use when preparing the solution must be in accordance with the instructions.
Downy mildew. It is determined by the appearance of spots on the leaves of cucumbers that resemble burns. In a couple of days the sheet dries completely. To stop the spread of the disease and destroy it, spray with Quadris (5 g per 10 liters of water). You should stop watering and ventilate the greenhouse more often, avoiding excessive air humidity.
Brown spot. When infected, fruits develop wine-brown spots oozing from the inside. Then the rot spreads to the entire plant. Spots of the same color are seen on leaves and stems. Within a week the plants die. Control measures come down to the destruction of diseased plants and reducing the level of soil and air moisture in the greenhouse.
Black mold. Manifestations of the fungus are noted in the appearance of spots on the leaves, which over time merge into one and become covered with black spider mold. Preventive measures include the use of treated seeds and disinfection of the soil and premises.

In addition to diseases, insect pests can attack the greenhouse crop. Some of the most common are:

Melon aphid. The negative impact of aphids is manifested in twisting and wrinkling of leaves on the vines. If you turn them over, you will notice a cluster of small insects on the underside of the leaf blade. They feed on plant sap, which leads to a lack of nutrients, stunting of development and drying out of the crop. In small areas, it is recommended to use traditional methods of control against aphids. This can be an infusion of onion peels or an ash solution with laundry soap. Large greenhouse farms use chemicals.
Greenhouse spider mite. It is difficult to detect due to its small size, but cobwebs on the plant are a sign of the presence of a mite.
The appearance of insects is associated with the presence of weeds in the greenhouse and conditions suitable for the parasite. It is recommended to fight it only using chemicals, so as not to waste valuable time. The following drugs can be used: “Plant-pin”, “Aktellik”, “Fitoverm”, etc. They must be processed strictly in accordance with the instructions for the drug.

What to consider when choosing varieties and hybrids of cucumbers for the greenhouse

When choosing cucumbers for growing in a greenhouse, the following are taken into account:

purpose of fruits;
method of pollination;
endurance in the shade;
ripening time;
productivity;
seasonality;
ripening period;
resistance to pests and diseases.

Pollination type

Cucumbers according to the type of pollination can be:

Parthenocarpic hybrids for greenhouses with predominantly female flowers. The fruits have almost no seeds.
Self-pollinating varieties combine female and male flowers, which allows them to pollinate themselves.
Insect-pollinated crops are used for professional greenhouses where the ceilings are retractable.

Expert opinion

Stanislav Pavlovich

Gardener with 17 years of experience and our expert

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Self-pollinating and parthenocarpic varieties are grown in home greenhouses.

Growing time

Seedlings are ready for transplanting into a greenhouse at the age of 24–30 days. That is, from the expected planting date, you need to subtract 30 days for seedling growth and 7 days for strengthening; this date is optimal for planting seed to obtain seedlings.

Attention: When purchasing seeds, you need to study the packaging, where on the back there are recommendations on how to grow a specific variety in a greenhouse and planting dates.

Economic purpose

When purchasing seed material, you need to determine the purpose of the crop. According to the method of use, cucumbers are:

Universal varieties.
Pickling types. Used for canning.
Salad varieties.

Attention: The purpose of cucumbers is indicated on the packaging. If this information is not available, the color of the thorns will help determine the use of the fruit. Salad varieties have white spines, and the skin has a more delicate shade.

Sustainability

Cucumber varieties are distinguished by shade tolerance. Spring and summer species are light-loving; you can get a good harvest in a greenhouse only with sufficient lighting. And winter cucumbers can tolerate shade very well.

Frost resistance is the main condition for the northern regions. Even with thermal insulation in the greenhouse, some varieties of cucumbers may die when planted early, becoming infected with a fungus. Therefore, at the beginning of autumn, only frost-resistant species are planted.

Problems and their solutions

It happens that infection with diseases is excluded, but some problems still arise on the plantation. Let's look at some of them.

No ovaries

Reasons for the problem of ovary formation on cucumbers:

insufficient ventilation;
deficiency of minerals in the soil;
impossibility of pollination (on pollinated varieties);
unfavorable temperature conditions, or microclimate in general.

The lower branches dry out

Such manifestations are possible for several reasons:

scorching sun rays;
contact with leaves of mineral root fertilizers;
waterlogging or moisture deficiency in the soil;
deficiency or surplus of nutrients;
lack of light and air.

Fruits grow slowly

Slow fruit growth is due to:

low-quality seed material;
failure to comply with the deadlines for planting seeds or planting seedlings;
microclimatic disturbances;
lack or excess of nutrition;
dense planting without bush formation.

Cucumbers are bitter

A bitter taste (exceeding the cucurbitacin level) in cucumbers can be observed due to plant stress for several reasons:

too bright scorching sun rays;
sudden changes in temperature;
violations of the temperature regime necessary for fruiting;
lack of nitrogen and phosphorus in the soil;
interruptions in watering or cold water;
plants interfere with each other due to their close proximity.

Growing cucumbers in greenhouse conditions is not easy. The quality of the harvest and its quantity depends on many factors that need to be considered from the preparation stage to the fruit harvesting stage. By following all agricultural techniques and creating the necessary conditions for the crop, you will enjoy growing, and cucumbers will delight you with fragrant fruits for a long time at any time of the year.

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The best varieties of cucumbers for the greenhouse

Gardeners very carefully select cucumber varieties for their greenhouses. It must meet several requirements:

high quality fruits;
resistance to temperature changes;
resistance to diseases and pests;
high productivity.

Below we consider self-pollinating greenhouse cucumber hybrids that meet all these requirements.

Herman F1 . An early-ripening hybrid in which the fruits ripen within 45 days. Small, lumpy green cucumbers are ideal for pickling and canning - they do not form internal voids and do not have a bitter aftertaste. Fruiting is in bunches, 4-6 green plants about 9 cm long are formed in one node.

Zozulya F1 . A reliable old well-known hybrid that produces cucumbers up to 22 cm long. The weight of one of them can reach 300 g. 2...3 greens are tied in a knot. Fruiting is early, occurs in 35...40 days.

Chinese heat-resistant F1 . Long salad cucumber, fruits appear on the 54th day. The advantages of the variety are high yield and fruit length up to 50 cm. Zelentsy do not have internal voids. The skin is thin, covered with small tubercles.

Cucumbers in a polycarbonate greenhouse reveal their full potential with proper planting of high-quality and healthy seedlings and careful care throughout the season. The bushes are rewarded for all their efforts with a high yield of fruits with excellent taste and marketability.

Choosing a variety or hybrid for greenhouse cultivation

Before buying cucumber seeds, you need to decide what the gardener wants to get from planting:

vegetables for canning or salad;
In winter or summer, cultivation will be organized in a greenhouse;
what cucumber fruits should look like.

Cultivated plants can be carriers of the characteristics of one variety or hybrids. Pure varieties of cucumbers will cost the gardener less; they are left for seeds, from which specimens with the same characteristics will grow. The most popular unpretentious varieties are: Chinese Serpent, Hercules, Anyuta.

Hybrid plants are marked F1 on the packaging next to the variety name. These cucumbers cannot be left for seed - the offspring from them will have different properties. But such plants are better protected from diseases, adapted to unfavorable climates, ripen faster, differ in productivity and are characterized by the same shape and size of fruits.

Important! It is better to choose cucumber varieties adapted to the area where they are planned to be grown.

When growing in a greenhouse, it is important to know what pollination options cucumbers have:

insect-pollinated;
self-pollinating;
parthenocarpic.

The plant is classified as a monoecious crop. For the ovary to appear, pollen must be transferred from the male to the female flower. For insect-pollinated crops, it is necessary to create conditions so that the bees themselves fly to the greenhouse. To attract them you will have to: grow petunias and sunflowers next to cucumbers, set up an apiary, regularly feed them with sugar syrup with the scents of the desired flowers or essential oils. If the owner of the greenhouse is allergic to bee stings or cannot interest them, he can pollinate the cucumbers himself. Hybrids recommended for growing in a greenhouse: Rodnichok F1, Hercules F1.

Parthenocarpic plants do not require pollination for ovary development. In this case, the fruits are obtained with underdeveloped seeds or without them at all. If a gardener is interested in growing them, you can purchase: German F1, Karina F1, Masha F1.

In self-pollinating cucumbers, fertilization occurs within one flower, since it contains both male and female genetic material. Gardeners recommend for growing: Zozulya F1, Amur F1, April F1.

In terms of ripening time in the middle zone, early ripening cucumbers received excellent recommendations: Red Mullet F1, Benefit F1, Orlik F1.

To start growing cucumbers in the fall in a greenhouse without helping insects and in low light conditions, you should select parthenocarpic and shade-tolerant hybrids: Marathon F1, Manul F1, Arina F1, Zozulya F1.

Harvesting

The quantity depends on how regularly you harvest. If cucumbers are not picked on time, they will overgrow. This means that the plant will spend additional nutrients on them, especially when forming seeds.

The suitable length of greens for harvesting is 10-15 cm. It is recommended to collect cucumbers daily or once every two days, then the harvest will be plentiful. The fruit is picked carefully, holding the stem with your hand so as not to damage the green vine.

Crooked and diseased fruits should be removed immediately, without waiting for them to grow to the required size, as they deplete the vegetable crop.

When to plant cucumbers for greenhouse seedlings

To calculate the timing of optimal sowing of cucumber seeds, you need to calculate when the gardener is going to plant seedlings in the greenhouse. Seedlings should be no older than 3 weeks in age, and experienced greenhouse growers say that two-week-old seedlings show the best survival rate.

Now we count: it will take three days for the seeds to germinate, then three days for the shoots to appear. Plus two weeks. Therefore, we take the expected date of “relocation” of seedlings from the windowsill to the greenhouse ridge - and “rewind” 20 calendar days in the opposite direction.

Types of greenhouses for cucumbers

Those who decide to set up a greenhouse on their site have two options - assemble it themselves, or purchase a ready-made one. In both cases, there are a number of features. Read what greenhouses and greenhouses for cucumbers exist here.

The initial investment boils down to the purchase of materials for building a greenhouse

If the greenhouse is purchased, there is no need to think about the choice of material and design. This greenhouse will be delivered and installed by specialists. The disadvantage of such a greenhouse is its high cost and standard parameters, which may not be suitable for a particular site. A self-assembled structure is modeled to the required dimensions and is easier to disassemble. However, you need to spend your time and effort collecting it.

A film greenhouse is usually assembled independently. Such a greenhouse is assembled from arcs, which are covered with film. Polyethylene is pressed to the ground using stones or boards. Caring for such a greenhouse is simple. You just need to lift the film and you can water and ventilate.
The butterfly greenhouse is a convenient design that helps to distribute space on the site as profitably as possible. It is a box that looks like a small house with a semicircular roof. Both sides of the greenhouse open and provide access to the interior. There are both ready-made greenhouses sold in stores and those assembled with your own hands.

The butterfly greenhouse takes up little space, which is its advantage

Polycarbonate greenhouses have a transparency of about 80%, are not subject to deformation during hail or snow, and also release heat slowly.
A winter greenhouse is the most labor-intensive to build. However, only it allows you to harvest cucumbers during the winter cold. Such a structure must be completely sealed, there must be light and warmth. These greenhouses are either racked (cucumbers are planted on shelves) or non-racked (planted in the ground). Previously, such greenhouses were almost all glass. Nowadays most of them are constructed from polycarbonate.