Cauliflower and white cabbage seedlings: diseases and their treatment. Why do cabbage seedlings die, how to treat cabbage seedlings from pests and diseases?

Cabbage is a hardy leafy vegetable full of vitamins and antioxidants. By planning the growing season with diligent care, you will get two fruitful harvests in one year, both in spring and fall. Cabbage is difficult to grow for beginning gardeners. Loves cool temperatures and is a magnet for garden pests. Growing cabbage for several years in the same area can lead to the proliferation of diseases and depletion of the soil.

What to do if there is a black leg on cabbage seedlings?

How to deal with black leg on cabbage seedlings?
First you need to find out what this “black leg” is. A similar disease is a fungal infection that affects the rhizomes and stem of a plant. Its main symptom is blackening of the root collar of the seedlings, thinning of the stem, and then its complete drying out. In addition to black spots, pimply formations or growths can be seen on the root collar of a diseased plant.

The following conditions are attractive for blackleg, as for other fungi:

high humidity
warm environment (ground)
increased acidity of the earth
dense plantings of seedlings
lack of air flow between plants

In other words, in order to avoid the appearance and development of blackleg, the following preventive actions must be taken:

water as needed
adhere to generally accepted standards for planting seedlings (distance between seeds)
ventilate the room with seedlings
check soil pH
disinfect the soil before planting seedlings in it
process and harden cabbage seeds before planting

If the black leg has already affected the seedlings, then there are several ways to combat it:

try to save the diseased plant by separating the affected part from its healthy part (the cut should be green, not black) and rooting it in the ground
remove the diseased seedling from the common box along with a lump of earth
plant healthy plants in another box and throw away the affected soil
treat healthy sprouts in a common box with a solution of manganese, Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate
cover the top layer of soil above the beginning of the black leg with a layer of river sand, activated carbon or ash
acidify the soil with a solution of soda (1 tsp baking soda per 1 tbsp. water)
seedlings transplanted into open ground and infected with blackleg can be fertilized with manure or chicken droppings

Causes of yellowing and drying of cabbage seedlings

Cabbage seedlings grow poorly: what to do

Cabbage seedlings

When cabbage seedlings turn yellow and dry out, what should gardeners do? It is important to understand the reasons in order to take adequate measures.

Unsuitable conditions

The factors why leaves of cabbage seedlings dry and wither include unsuitable conditions.

Cultivation of cabbage seedlings is carried out in greenhouses, as well as on a window at home. Specific rules are followed, regardless of where the seed grows.

Yellowed foliage on seedlings appears due to:

insufficient lighting;
incorrectly selected soil;
excess or lack of nutrients in the soil;
inappropriate indoor temperature at home.

Poor care

In order to grow, develop normally and not fall, cabbage seedlings require proper care. Often the summer resident is to blame for the yellowing of the vegetable. Leaves of young crops may dry out if:

deficiency or excess of water in the soil;
oxygen starvation of roots;
improper feeding with fertilizers.

Excess moisture in the soil causes acidification. In addition, the root system does not receive the required amount of oxygen. Cabbage sprouts wither and die. Lack of watering causes dry leaves.

Excess moisture in the soil causes acidification

When cabbage seedlings are grown from seeds in nutritious, balanced soil, there is no need to add additional fertilizer. Excessive fertilization has a detrimental effect on the shoots - the leaves turn yellow and wither.

Phytodiseases and pests

The root causes why seedling leaves turn yellow and curl include diseases. Common ailments include:

black rot;
black leg;
fusarium;
kilu.

If cabbage seedlings suffer from these phytodiseases, they must be treated immediately to prevent death.

Black rot

The disease is easy to identify. Another name for the disease is vascular bacteriosis. Transmission of pathogens occurs through:

earth and organic matter;
water and harmful insects.

The disease manifests itself if:

the cabbage leaves have turned yellow on the bottom;
black spots gradually appear on the leaves;
The plant turns black inside (from the stalk).

The development of the disease is determined by:

Adverse weather conditions. Cabbage plantings are massively affected by black rot if the temperature outside is above zero and there are prolonged rains. Vascular bacteriosis develops quickly at temperatures of +26…+30 °C.
Temperature changes also give rise to black rot, but the symptoms do not appear very quickly - only when the temperature rises.
Poor quality planting material. Sometimes it is fraught with a threat - infection of seeds with rot. When affected by a bacterial disease, vegetable crops are removed from the soil and burned away from the garden.
Pests. They are considered carriers of vascular bacteriosis spores. Therefore, timely disposal of harmful insects on cabbage is valued. It is useful to engage in the prevention of infection by parasites or bacterial and viral pathologies.

Blackleg

Fungal disease often affects cabbage seedlings. When infected, seedlings at the cotyledon leaf stage die. Adults can be saved if soil is sprinkled above the affected point. However, vegetables will lag behind in growth and development.

The disease is provoked by:

· thickened seeds;

· waterlogged soil;

cold water for irrigation;

sudden temperature changes;
poor aeration;
acidified and heavy soil;
insufficient lighting;
excessive feeding with nitrogen, biological fungicides Siyanie, Baikal EM-1.

For your information. Ash, which is used to treat seeds and soil, will help prevent blackleg and prevent seedlings from dying.

Fusarium

Fusarium wilt of cabbage

A fungal infection is also called cabbage yellowness. Fungal spores enter seedlings through roots or injured areas, spread through the vessels of the crop, and impede the movement of water. As a result, seedlings lose their elasticity, diseased foliage dries out and falls off. Cabbage leaves have a green-yellow color, which is expressed more in the green part. Sometimes the top of the fork withers and later rots. The cabbage head loses its leaves and becomes crooked.

If seedlings are damaged, diseased plants are eliminated. It is appropriate to steam the soil mixture and disinfect the soil with potassium permanganate. For the prevention and treatment of fungal diseases, biological products are used:

· Gamair;

Glyocladin;
Alirin;
Trichocin.

Kila

Early cabbage and cauliflower are susceptible to clubroot. Symptoms of the disease are manifested by swellings and outgrowths, growths instead of roots.

Clubroot ends up on the site with animal manure and is introduced with seed material. Cultivating plants in acidic soil promotes the development of the disease.

Treatment of the disease involves:

change of crop rotation;
monitoring soil acidity;
selection of varieties resistant to clubroot;
soil cultivation with Bordeaux mixture;
fight against weeds (colts, grasshopper, shepherd's purse, watercress - carriers of parasitic fungi).

On a note. In order not to spread the disease throughout the garden, it is better to plant cabbage seedlings in narrow beds, the row spacing of which is not dug up.

Pests

Cabbage seedlings will certainly turn yellow when harmful insects appear. Underground parasites harm cabbage:

fall armyworm;
May Khrushchev;
cabbage fly.

Pests destroy the roots of seedlings, so the foliage of the plants turns yellow and dries out, and after a certain period of time the plants die. Vegetable seedlings disappear if they are favored by aphids and cruciferous flea beetles. Cabbage moths, which feed on cabbage leaves, are no less harmful. So that the plants do not fall, but please with a healthy appearance, they resist parasites in a timely manner.

Insecticides will help in the battle with cruciferous flea fleas and aphids. Intavir has a wide spectrum of effects and effectively destroys 50 varieties of harmful insects.

Why do cabbage seedlings have purple leaves?

Reasons for the appearance of purple leaves on cabbage seedlings
Experienced gardeners explain the appearance of purple leaves on cabbage seedlings by two conditions:

lack of useful microelements, in particular nitrogen and phosphorus
stress suffered by the plant (picking, planting in open ground, lack or excess of moisture, low room temperature)

In the first case, the seedlings can be helped by banal feeding with the missing substances. It is worth noting that it is necessary to fertilize the plant in moderation. In the second situation, it is advisable to first find out what caused the stress, and only then take measures:

If the seedlings are cold, then they need to be provided with comfortable temperature conditions.
If there are problems with watering, they need to be solved
If the plant suffers from a change in environment, then you can simply give it time to acclimatize

Holes and white spots appeared on cabbage seedlings: what to do?

What to do with cabbage seedlings if holes and white spots appear on them?
There are a number of diseases that can cause white spots and holes to appear on cabbage seedlings:

Powdery mildew
Downy mildew or downy mildew
Nitrogen deficiency
Cruciferous flea beetle

Powdery mildew is not considered a very serious disease, especially if it appears on an adult plant. The best prevention of the disease is to follow the rules of crop rotation and control weeds. However, this disease can reduce the crop yield, so it is advisable to treat the diseased seedlings with some kind of preparation against powdery mildew. Most often, Fitosporin is used for these purposes (used no more than once every 2-3 weeks).

Downy mildew, like powdery mildew, is dangerous only for young plants. Its occurrence can be prevented by organizing conditions that are comfortable for seedlings and disinfecting the soil and seeds before planting. It is possible to overcome such a disease with the help of industrial means, such as Topaz, or with a solution of liquid soap and copper sulfate (1 tbsp of these products per 10 liters of water).

The third problem can be easily solved by adding organic or mineral nitrogen fertilizers to the soil.

The cruciferous flea beetle, like no other, is capable of riddling cabbage seedlings in a matter of days. The attack of this insect can be prevented by treating the soil in autumn and spring before planting seedlings, as well as by disinfecting the cabbage seeds themselves. Many gardeners practice planting plants such as coriander, dill or nightshade around their beds. These crops emit an odor that is unpleasant to insects. If the flea has nevertheless penetrated into the cabbage planting area, then it needs to be fought with more radical methods: chemicals, infusion of ash or copper sulfate solution.

Sowing seeds in open ground

Depending on the type of cabbage, the seeds are sown according to the following scheme:

with the row planting method: 50-60 cm distance between rows, 30-40 cm - between plants;
for square nesting: 50X50, 50X60, or 45X70.

Early varieties grow much more compactly, while middle and late varieties require much more space to grow.

Before sowing, it is necessary to slightly moisten the intended holes. To prevent diseases, you can water it with a solution of “Fitosporin” prepared according to the instructions.

3-4 seeds are sown in each hole at a depth of 2 cm. Cabbage rarely shows 100% germination, so you need to sow with a reserve.

Crops must be covered with film or other selected cover.

Cabbage seedlings wither: what to do

What to do if cabbage seedlings wither?

The reasons for wilting of cabbage seedlings can be banal violations of the rules and procedures for planting seedlings. In addition, novice gardeners make a lot of mistakes when caring for the first shoots - either they are flooded with too much water, or, conversely, they are not watered enough. Another common mistake may be a violation of the temperature or humidity level in the room where the boxes with seedlings are located.
Well, the most obvious and common cause for concern regarding wilting cabbage seedlings is an attack by pests. Each of them must be dealt with accordingly.
It is also worth mentioning that experienced gardeners still prefer not to grow seedlings of this crop at home, but to sow them directly in a greenhouse or greenhouse.

Causes of wilting

The condition of seedlings is influenced by various reasons. Young plantings dry out when attacked by pests or the development of diseases. Wilting of foliage is a common reaction to improper care. Culture requires moderation in everything:

air humidity;
supply of batteries;
lighting;
compliance with sowing rules;
moistening the substrate;
temperature.

Seedlings respond painfully to excess and lack of resources. If you take into account possible risk factors in advance, the leaves of the seedlings will be green and elastic, and the future heads of cabbage will be heavy and dense.

Why do cabbage seedlings turn yellow and dry out?

Causes of yellowing and drying out of cabbage seedlings

Yellowing of cabbage seedlings after transplanting them into open ground is a normal and common phenomenon. Moreover, you should not worry if only the lower, cotyledon leaves have turned yellow. This plant reaction to transplantation is considered normal.
Cabbage seedlings can also turn yellow due to insufficient or excessive watering.
Strongly scorching sun can turn its leaves yellow or, on the contrary, planting it in a shaded area of the garden.
A way out of this situation can be additional feeding of seedlings with complex mineral fertilizers.

When not to worry

The apple tree dries up in the spring: what to do

At times, cabbage seedlings change color: they begin to turn yellow. But this is not a reason for summer residents to worry and worry. Stress is to blame for the yellowing of the lower cotyledon leaves.

Important! Planting seedlings in direct sunlight is dangerous for plants. Hot summer days will affect the color of the foliage and turn it yellow.

Yellowing of leaves during picking is not an excuse to panic. The phenomenon is associated with damaged roots during transplantation. That’s why you need to immediately tear off the yellowed unwanted leaves and water the cabbage seedlings generously.

Growing strong cabbage seedlings without yellowing leaves is possible for both experienced and novice gardeners. It is useful to follow the rules for caring for vegetables, choose a suitable place and promptly carry out disease prevention when growing on a windowsill and in a personal plot.

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Why don't cabbage seedlings grow?

Why don't cabbage seedlings grow?
There can be many reasons for this phenomenon:

Strong penetration of cabbage seeds into the soil during planting
Insufficient or, conversely, increased watering
Failure to comply with temperature conditions
Insufficient humidity in the room with seedlings
Lack of fresh air in the room or, on the contrary, strong drafts
Violation of the procedure for treating seeds or soil before planting
Pest attack

Why do cabbage seedlings' leaves curl?

Reasons for leaf curling in cabbage seedlings
There are a number of factors that provoke the process of leaf curling in cabbage seedlings:

Lack or excess of nutrients in the soil (not fed or overfed the soil)
Burn due to spraying seedlings with various types of chemicals as a top dressing or treatment for pests
Insufficient or infrequent watering
Whitefly butterfly attack
Damage to plant leaves by cabbage aphids

Cabbage seedlings have stretched out and outgrown: what to do?

What to do if cabbage seedlings have stretched out?

If for some reason the cabbage seedlings have stretched out before picking, then they must be immediately transplanted into individual containers.
In the process of such a transplant, it is advisable to pincer (pinch) the root of the seedling, deepening it right up to the cotyledon leaves.
After picking the seedlings, it is advisable to place them in a cool place (from +10 to +13 degrees) for 7-10 days and provide them with decent twelve-hour lighting.
If the seedlings have stretched out after picking, then you can try to cut off the top or treat them with special preparations that slow down the growth process.

What to do to save?

The appearance of signs of wilting requires urgent action. Resuscitation methods depend on the specific problem. If detected early, in most cases the crop can be saved.

Young shoots

How to save young seedlings before planting in the ground:

The seedlings are weak and do not grow —feeding is necessary. It is necessary to fertilize the seedlings with complex compounds (for example, Kemira-universal) according to the instructions.
The seedlings have stretched out, the stems have become thin and brittle - move the boxes to a cooler place, add lighting.
The leaves are drying - adjust the watering. If there are no changes, most likely the plant was attacked by pests or fusarium. You can spray with Fitosporin-M.
The appearance of yellowness means fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers (saltpeter, urea) is required.
The legs of the plant turn blue - the result of temperature stress, usually happens in greenhouses. It goes away on its own when the soil warms up well.

A common problem is that seemingly healthy seedlings begin to fall . Most likely, the seedlings are infected with blackleg (the popular name for root rot). The disease develops for many reasons: excessive watering, dense sowing, high humidity and air temperature, oxygen deficiency, contaminated soil or seeds.

When infected, the roots darken and soften, causing the seedlings to lose support and fall. If the attack has affected half or more of the seedlings, you need to eliminate the diseased bushes along with the soil. As long as time allows, it is easier to grow new seedlings.

Mature heads of cabbage, planted in the ground long ago

What measures are taken to save adult cabbage:

If holes appear on the leaves , treat the plant against cruciferous flea beetles, cabbage moths, aphids, and whiteweed (the drugs Ambush, Cyanox, Tolkodorm, Sumicidin, Corsair are suitable).
Marble spots on leaves - feed with magnesium fertilizers.
Leucorrhoea on the leaves - spray with a 0.5% solution of soda ash or Fundazol.
Leaves change color to red or purple - phosphorus deficiency. It is necessary to feed the plants with superphosphate.
White oily spots - spray with preparations containing copper.
Gray mold and small black dots have appeared on the lower leaves - treatment for gray cabbage rot is needed.
Small black dots 1-1.5 mm - stop applying nitrogen fertilizers and feed the plant with preparations containing potassium.
The leaves curl and dry out - increase watering and loosen the soil more often. If this does not help, carry out preventive treatment with Baktofit.
The lower leaves acquire a bluish tint - apply nitrogen fertilizers.

Attention!

If any spots appear, it is necessary to treat the crop with 1% Bordeaux mixture and repeat spraying after a week. It is equally important to maintain the beds in proper sanitary condition. This includes timely weeding, destruction of diseased plants, and soil disinfection.

How to plant overgrown cabbage seedlings?

Experienced gardeners recommend that overgrown seedlings not be watered for at least a week on the eve of planting them in open ground.
You can moisten the soil of such seedlings only a couple of hours before transplanting.
Overgrown seedlings also need to be buried by tearing off their two lower leaves.

Are cabbage seedlings afraid of frost?

Any plant, especially when in the seedling stage, is afraid of low temperatures. Cabbage is no exception in this case.
It is best to plant seedlings of this crop in open ground after the likelihood of night frosts has been minimized.
If such a risk is still present, then the plant must be prepared for this in advance.
Even when planting seeds, they need to be hardened.
It is also advisable to harden off sprouts that have already hatched.
Prepared seedlings can withstand frosts down to -4-5 degrees.

Picking methods and step-by-step recommendations for them

After watering the plants, you need to prepare all the necessary tools for the procedure. You can use a simple spoon or small spatula. Picking has been familiar to gardeners for many years, so there are many methods for its implementation. Let's look at the main ones.

In one container

You can transplant the culture into one container. Use a wooden box or small basin. Fill the soil so that about 2 cm remains to the sides of the container. Prepare the mixture with your own hands, take soil from the garden, ash and river sand. If this is not possible, then buy ready-made soil for cabbage seedlings in the store.

There may be spores of pathogenic organisms in the ground; so that they do not harm your plants, treat it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. It will completely disinfect the soil.

Very carefully remove the seedlings from the first container and carefully transfer the cabbage into the small depressions in the new container. Compact the soil around the transplanted plants. The main requirement for a new container is to keep the distance at least 8 cm from the edges of the box and other seedlings, then the cabbage will feel good and in the future will begin to receive the amount of useful elements that it needs.

In plastic cups

In order for the seedling to feel comfortable, it is necessary to choose a container of at least 5 cm in diameter, otherwise the roots will begin to develop incorrectly. For this purpose, gardeners use ordinary plastic cups or very thick bags. Make holes at the bottom of the container to allow excess moisture to escape. The composition of the soil mixture does not differ from the previous method.

The only but significant drawback of this method is that it is very easy to damage the roots when transplanting plants into open soil or a greenhouse. Therefore, if possible, choose a larger container. If this is not possible, then during transplantation, cut the cups and remove the sprouts without damage.

You can clearly see how cabbage seedlings are planted into plastic cups in the following video:

In peat cups

It is considered one of the most common methods of picking cabbage. The difference from plastic is that the peat container disintegrates very quickly, so you can plant seedlings in the ground in the same cup, then you will not only protect the cabbage sprouts, but also feed the soil.

Choose peat containers of the same small size (about 7 cm). Pour in the soil mixture and leave a little free space. Water the soil in which you will plant the seedlings and dig holes so that the soil reaches the lower leaves of the plant.

Peat cups are the best container for picking vegetables.

In polyethylene

This method is applicable not only for cabbage seedlings, but also for other plants. Take dense polyethylene and cut it into pieces measuring 0.1 * 0.15 m. Summer residents like this method because it is not particularly difficult to implement, and it also saves a lot of space that cabbage sprouts take up.

Algorithm for transplanting seedlings into polyethylene:

Lay out the polyethylene.
Place some fertilized soil in the top corner.
Place a cabbage sprout on top of the ground so that the lower leaves are higher than the polyethylene.
Sprinkle the root system of the seedlings with soil.
Make an envelope from polyethylene: place the bottom corner on a sprout with soil and fold it.
Secure the envelope with tape.

Place all the envelopes in one large box or drawer and place them in a sunny and warm place, you can use a windowsill. If there is little natural light, install additional fluorescent lamps.

In the "diaper"

There is a way to grow seedlings that does not require further picking. First you need to grow the seedlings in a certain way. The algorithm for growing cabbage seedlings using film and paper is as follows:

Cut the film into strips about 0.1 m wide.
Place newspaper paper on top.
Spray it a little with water.
Place the seeds on the paper, 4 cm apart.
Cover the seed with another layer of paper, then with film.
Roll the structure into a roll and place it in a plastic glass with water at the very bottom.
Cover with a cloth and place in a warm place.

The method helps to quickly grow sprouts from seed; sufficient space is left between plants, and after 2 sprouts appear, the plants can already be transplanted into open soil, but provided that cabbage is grown in the southern region.

This method can also be used by residents of northern climates, however, after 2-3 true leaves appear on the seedlings, they still need to be picked in separate containers.

The method of using a “diaper” has a number of advantages:

space is saved;
no need to prepare special soil for germinating seeds;
during secondary picking, the roots are not injured;
seedlings are 100% protected from bacteria;
At the initial stage, you can get rid of weak seeds that would not bear fruit in the future.

Disadvantages of picking in film:

very slow seedling growth;
Repeated picking is often necessary.

How to sow cabbage seeds in “diapers” so that you can later plant seedlings without problems is described in the video below:

Cabbage seedlings are frozen: what to do?

What to do with frozen cabbage seedlings?

Frozen cabbage seedlings can be treated with special chemicals.
This kind of remedy will help the seedlings cope with the misfortune that happened to it.
Some gardeners recommend watering such plants with cold water (ideally melt water).

Aphids on cabbage seedlings: how to fight?

How to fight aphids on cabbage seedlings?

The cabbage aphid is a small pest that reveals its presence in cabbage with a white and then brown coating on the leaves of its seedlings.
Aphids, like any other pest, are easier to prevent than to control.
Prevention against cabbage aphids is proper planting and care of cabbage seedlings.
Many gardeners plant fragrant marigolds, dill, parsley, rosemary, mint, etc. next to the cabbage bed. The smell of these plants blooming repels many insects and other pests.
Folk remedies for fighting cabbage aphids are an infusion of tomato tops, tobacco dust or wood ash, as well as a soap solution.
Among chemical preparations, anabazine sulfate has proven itself well, the solution of which is used to treat seedlings.

How to treat cabbage seedlings against diseases and pests?

How and with what to treat cabbage seedlings from pests and diseases?
On the shelves of specialized stores there are dozens, or even hundreds of chemicals that help get rid of various cabbage diseases or pests. However, many gardeners still prefer to use only natural preparations or substances that help combat these problems. Thus, you can be sure that the pesticide will not get inside the cabbage head, and the vegetable will be absolutely safe for the human body.

Here are the most popular and proven folk methods for treating cabbage seedlings from diseases and pests:

You can fight cruciferous flea beetle by spraying seedlings with a solution of vinegar, chicken droppings or celandine, pollination with sifted wood ash and tobacco dust or slaked lime.
The following will help get rid of cabbage aphids: wiping the leaves with soapy water, spraying with a solution of iodine and milk, ash and soap, or infusion of tomato and potato tops.
Cabbage whites are afraid of being sprayed with a solution of ash and soap, infusions of burdock, onions, garlic or weeds.
You can fight cabbage moths by pollinating seedlings with wood ash.
You can try to expel the cabbage fly from the garden by watering the cabbage with a saline solution and sprinkling the soil with wood ash, mothballs with sand, tobacco dust, as well as by spraying the seedlings with an extract of coniferous plants or an infusion of celery stalks.
Only preventative methods can fight the cabbage weevil - this insect is not afraid of any other substances.
Mustard powder, infusions of garlic or onions, as well as a solution of ammonia can repel slugs and snails.
For such large pests, you can still equip bait traps - buried containers with fermenting yeast, kvass or juice.

We hope that our article will help protect your cabbage seedlings from numerous problems. Have a good sprouting and harvest!

Cabbage varieties resistant to wilting

To reduce the risk of seedlings withering, choose varieties that are resistant to diseases and unfavorable growing conditions. Among the early ripening varieties, gardeners call the most resistant varieties and hybrids:

Rinda - the fruits grow heavy, up to 7.5 kg, are stored for 3 - 5 months; leaves are dense, thin; the stalk is small;
Express F1 – seeds germinate quickly; stumps are short; heads of cabbage are dense; grown in different climatic zones;
Aurora - heads of cabbage ripen a month after planting the seedlings;
Zarya – the average weight of a rounded fruit is 2 – 2.5 kg; tolerates nitrogen deficiency; gives a good harvest.

Late varieties are sown in April. These types of cabbage are used for making salads and fermented. The most resistant varieties:

Aggressor F1 – a hybrid that consistently produces crops under any weather conditions; the heads of cabbage are heavy;
Gift – delicious cabbage; heads of cabbage are flat-rounded or round; rarely affected by pests;
Amager 611 – dense, round fruits, average weight – 3 kg;
Kolobok is a very productive variety; heads are straight; in good conditions they are stored until spring;
Valentina - the fruits are delicious; the stump is almost absent; The fruits are stored for a long time.

It takes time for the heads of cabbage to grow dense and tasty. Late-ripening varieties sometimes need 150 - 200 warm days, but in the middle zone or beyond the Urals it is colder. Therefore, resistant varieties are selected taking into account the region.

It is possible to grow strong green seedlings at home. The main thing is to follow preventive measures, choose a convenient place for seedlings, and properly care for the seedlings. Compliance with agrotechnical conditions is necessary at all stages of crop development.