Frost-resistant grapes "Isabella": description of the variety, planting and care, photo

Strengths of the Isabella variety

Isabella is the fruit of natural selection. The variety takes root well in different regions (southern regions, Moscow region, Volga region). The grapes ripen late, but produce a very rich harvest. Under favorable conditions, the weight of one hand can reach 2 kg. During the season, one vine can produce 50-60 kg of fruit. The harvest is harvested in October.

1. Black-purple fruits with a strong grayish coating are highly dense and durable. The grapes retain their presentation during transportation. The sweet and sour taste of the berries and the absence of a large number of seeds makes the variety incredibly popular.
2. Isabella fruits contain a number of substances that have a beneficial effect on the health of the body.
3. The unpretentiousness of the variety allows even a novice gardener to cope with planting and care. The variety takes root in any soil (the exception is the presence of lime in the soil) and does not require regular fertilizing.
4. Isabella tolerates low temperatures well. Under the film, the variety can withstand temperatures down to -35 0 C, without shelter - up to -28 0 C. Even after the onset of returning spring frosts, new shoots are visible after 2-3 weeks.
5. The variety is not susceptible to many diseases. Strong immunity allows you to resist fungal diseases and phylloxera. You don’t have to worry about the grapes even if neighboring varieties are infected. The only thing to be wary of is anthracnose. But preliminary prevention also eliminates this problem.
6. Isabella is not afraid of excess moisture. But grapes do not tolerate drought. Lack of water will negatively affect the amount of foliage, appearance and taste of the berries.
7. Grapes are easy to propagate. The cuttings take root well and require almost no care.

When to plant:

Planting can be done in spring or in the first autumn month

If you decide to plant Isabella seedlings in the fall, then this should be done in the first half of September. It is very important that the interval between planting and the onset of frost is no shorter than two months. This is necessary for good rooting of the plant.

If you decide to plant Isabella in the spring, then do it in the first two weeks of May, when the threat of frost has already passed. In case of return of frost or severe cold weather, cover the seedlings.

Rules for growing Isabella grapes

Features of planting seedlings depend on climatic conditions. From the moment of planting until the first cold weather, at least 2-2-.5 months should pass. Autumn planting is recommended only for the southern regions. In areas where the onset of winter is difficult to predict, it is better to plant Isabella in the spring.

The variety performs well in all types of soil, but fertile and slightly acidic soils are considered more favorable. The vine needs protection from strong winds and at the same time requires ventilation.

Important: Isabella is an unfavorable neighbor for fruit trees. The vine smothers them with roots, which leads to nutritional deficiency.

Plants that are 1 year old are best suited as seedlings. When purchasing, pay attention to the cleanliness and uniformity of the seedling’s bark, and the absence of stains or mechanical damage. The health of the seedlings is indicated by the white color on the cut roots and the greenish tint of the shoots.

Planting stages

1. To plant grapes, dig a hole 80 cm deep, 80 cm in diameter. The height of the drainage layer is 5-7 cm (mandatory preparation stage). The next layer is filled with a mixture of fertile turf, 15-20 liters of humus and 2.5-3 liters of wood ash. This is followed by a layer of earth 5 cm high. The procedure is repeated so that in the final version 5 layers are laid: drainage, fertilizer, soil, fertilizer, soil. The pit is generously filled with water (80-100 L).
2. Before planting, the seedling requires preparation. The roots of the plant are trimmed 24 hours before planting by a few cm. The roots should be immersed in water at room temperature. Crystals of potassium permanganate will help disinfect the surface, growth stimulants will increase the plant’s immunity.
3. 2-3 hours before planting, the roots are immersed in powdered clay or cow dung. As soon as the mass dries, you can begin planting.
4. A peg is installed in the center of the hole, which in the future will serve as a support for young grapes.
5. When placing a seedling in a hole, you need to carefully straighten the roots. Do not deepen the root collar too much. The distance from the shoots to the ground should be 3-4 cm.
6. After abundant watering (40-50 l), mulch is laid in the form of peat chips, humus, and fresh grass.
7. For the first 2-3 weeks, it is better for the seedling to remain under the protection of a white shelter (the material should not attract sunlight).

Important: if the goal is to create a vineyard, then the bushes should be planted at a distance of 1.5 m. A gap of 2.5-3 m is maintained between the rows.

Watering

The first 2 years the vine needs abundant and regular watering. Every week you need to add 15-20 liters of water to the root. Grown plants are watered in the same amount, but 2 times less often. Watering is stopped when the berries are picking up color. The final water-recharging watering is carried out in the fall. Each plant should receive at least 70 liters of water. Watering should end with mulching.

Isabella leaves should be protected from moisture. It would be a good idea to create a shelter over the grapes to protect them from rain. For irrigation, they build a drip irrigation system or dig trenches between the rows into which water is poured.

Fertilizer

• The first stage occurs in the spring. Use nitrogen-containing fertilizers.
• Repeated fertilization is carried out during fruit set. Now the plant needs potassium and phosphorus.
• At the last stage, the grapes are fed with complex preparations.
• Once every 2-3 years, the plant should be supported with natural complementary foods.

Important: in regions with unpredictable winters, Isabella needs protection from severe frosts. To do this, the vine is bent to the ground, and peat, humus or pine branches are placed on top. All this is covered with covering material. Removing the shelter is allowed only when a constant air temperature has established itself at least 5 0 C.

Features of planting cuttings at home

The process of planting cuttings at home takes longer than when planting in the soil and requires preparatory work. Preparation of cuttings for planting at home is carried out in the same way as before planting in the soil, after autumn pruning of grapes. Select cuttings that are strong and healthy, up to 10 mm thick, with two or more eyes.

The finished cuttings are placed in a pre-cut plastic bottle.

To prepare the conditions for planting and growing cuttings, you will need:

• 1.5-2 liter plastic bottles with a cut neck for each cutting;
• prepared soil for filling the container;
• humus, phosphate or mineral fertilizers.

and pour 4-5 centimeters of water so that only the edges and the first eye are covered. Place the container in a warm place with good natural light and leave it to stand for 1.5-2 months (all autumn) without adding water. At the end of autumn, the cuttings sprout small roots, but the buds do not have time to bloom. After root germination, you need to plant the plants in a bottle with soil.

To plant grape cuttings in bottles, you need to prepare loose soil that can allow oxygen to pass through. Then the soil is fertilized: with humus at the rate of 100-150 g per bottle; mineral or phosphate fertilizers at the rate of 50 ml of diluted solution per bottle.

After this, the container is filled 1/3 with soil and a little water is added, the cutting is laid evenly and the soil is filled to the edge of the container. Plants planted in a bottle are watered and placed in a dark place until spring. All this time it is necessary to monitor the condition of the soil, periodically watering it, but at the same time avoid excessive moisture, so as not to rot the roots. Closer to spring, at the end of February or March, the cuttings begin to grow, buds form and bloom on them. At this time, you should move the bottles with sprouted cuttings to a well-lit place.

In a bright place, the shoots will grow more intensively and can reach more than 40 centimeters. If the shoots grow excessively, it is better to pin them, leaving them at least 30 centimeters tall, rather than tying them with a rope. Planting of sprouted cuttings is carried out in early spring, at the end of March or at the beginning of April, in open ground after frosts.

For more than 200 years, Isabella grapes have been popular among professional gardeners and ordinary summer residents. An unpretentious variety to grow, it is capable of producing good yields. Isabella appeared through crossing. Breeder V. Prince set himself the task of increasing resistance to adverse factors and improving the quality of the vine. He succeeded, and as a result, the Isabella variety became a favorite among winegrowers. The variety was first planted in America, from where it spread throughout the world. Over time, after the appearance of new hybrids, many planters considered Isabella not so good: active cutting down of vineyards began. They argued that during processing the fruits acquired a rotten smell, thereby reducing the quality of the wine. But nevertheless, Isabella did not become less popular. It is successfully grown by planters all over the world.

Let's sum it up

• the Isabella variety is a natural hybrid;
• characterized by abundant harvest;
• unpretentious grapes, with a high level of natural protective functions and frost-resistant properties;
• Isabella must undergo correct and timely pruning, which will have a positive effect on the harvest;
• requires shelter in regions with cold winters.

Isabella grapes have a number of advantages. Planting and growing it does not require much experience. Even a beginner can reap a rich harvest. You need to take full responsibility when pruning vines in the fall. Following all the recommendations will allow you to cope with this task without difficulty.

Harvesting and processing

The fruits ripen in late September-early October. The berries are considered ripe and have a rich dark blue color with a purple tint and a slight bluish-gray tinge. Grape harvesting begins in mid-autumn. The skin of ripe fruits is quite dense and strong, so there are no problems with transporting the crop.

Grapes are used primarily for wine production. Although the juices are also very tasty. Since the skin peels off easily and the fruits contain few seeds, confiture is prepared from grapes, jams and jellies are made.

Pruning Isabella grapes in the fall for beginners. How to prune grape shoots in autumn

When pruning grapes, you need to ensure that the wounds are as small as possible, since they do not heal for a long time, and damage with a diameter of more than 10 mm does not heal at all.

Before pruning grapes in the fall, make sure to purchase sharp pruning shears.

Before pruning grape shoots, look for a branch that has already bore fruit and that has annual vines. The lower vine is trimmed to 3-4 buds (counting from the base of the shoot and it is better if it is directed in the direction opposite to the bush). How to prune grapes correctly to increase fruiting? To do this, the second vine from the base is trimmed to 4-18 buds, the ones growing higher are cut off, and the next year the branches from the replacement knot are examined and the shoot is cut off along with the growth.

The fruit cone is also formed in the fall by identifying an annual vine, which is then cut off, leaving 2 buds, and next year the upper shoot is cut to the lower one, reducing the length of the latter to 4 buds, after which the 2 upper buds are left, and the 2 lower ones are “blinded.” " This procedure is repeated in the fall.

When pruning for a fruiting link, last year's fruiting shoot with all developed fruiting shoots is removed, and of the two shoots on the replacement knot, the lower one is again cut off to a new knot, and the upper one to a fruiting shoot. In the future, it is recommended to replace this link with a new one. As for the horns, they gradually become longer and therefore require periodic replacement.

Last year's shoots are cut off between the nodes - the farther from the last eye, the better, since the tissue below the damage dies and turns into an obstacle to parasites and microbes. The old branch is first cut to a small knot 30 mm long, and when it dries, it is cut flush with the trunk. The optimal yield is obtained from shoots one year old growing on 2-year-old wood. Regardless of the formation, there should be a spare knot at the base of the trunk, which is formed in the first few years and updated every year. If the bush dies, it can be revived from the above-ground part a year earlier than from the shoots on the trunk.

Before pruning grapes, look

• Rules for pruning grapes
• How to properly clean Isabella's bush

Pruning is a process aimed at removing old and weak branches to form a vine bush.

Watering:

Watering is necessary for grapes, especially at the initial stage of growth. Once you have planted your seedlings, they need abundant and frequent watering. This will help the young plant adapt to new conditions, quickly begin to develop its root system and begin to grow. Watering should be done at least twice every 7 days, using a bucket or two of water. At the same time, make sure that there is no stagnation, as this can be more dangerous than a lack of water.

The watering scheme changes for adult bushes. They are watered only when necessary. As a rule, one bucket once a week is sufficient.

During the period when fruits are actively forming and growing, the soil should never be dry.

It is recommended to water in the evening.

Two weeks before the expected harvest, watering should be stopped to give the grape clusters the opportunity to ripen and not burst.

The next watering is carried out before the onset of cold weather, when the entire crop has been harvested. To do this, 70 liters of water are poured under each bush, this helps the plant recover and gain strength before the start of winter.

Interesting to know! In the east, grape leaves are used to prepare dolma, which is also loved in our country.

How to prune neglected grapes. What is grape pruning?

Pruning is a manipulation carried out with the aim of shortening or removing annual shoots, and old ones as necessary.

What time of year is best to prune a vineyard? When is it better to prune grapes - in autumn or spring? The most preferable is autumn pruning of grapes. There are several reasons for this: firstly, if the vineyard needs to be covered for the winter, then this process is greatly facilitated.

Secondly, the “wounds” heal quickly after pruning. As a result, such correct pruning of grapes in the fall leads to the fact that the bush bears fruit well.

Pruning grapes in the spring is dangerous for the bush because liquid will ooze from the cut for a long time, along with which the plant will begin to leave useful substances and microelements; this process is also called “crying grapes.”

The tears of a grapevine can not only reduce the quality and quantity of products obtained, but also kill the bush. As a last resort, if pruning was not carried out in the fall, then it can be done in early spring, only very carefully. The thermometer should reach + 5 degrees Celsius.

During the formation and ripening of berries, professionals in their field remove excess vines, pinch shoots, and clean the bush from unnecessary leaves.

Professional winemaking includes: the formation of clusters on the lower part of the bush, followed by gradual clearing of foliage, this is done so that the berries absorb the sun's rays. Clusters formed in the upper or middle part of the bush are freed from excess shoots, while the foliage is left. This trick gives the grapes an exquisite taste. Also, thanks to pruning, hidden diseases of the bush are revealed, which can then be easily treated.

Diseases and pests of crops

Sometimes plantings of Isabella grapes become infected with anthracnose. Fungi affect not only leaves, but also fruits. The appearance and development of the disease is facilitated by high humidity and highly acidic soil. To treat plants, the drugs “Polyarm” and “Kartotsid” are used. As a preventive measure, spring pollination of bushes with a solution of copper sulfate is used.

Anthracnose

Isabella grapes

The Isabella variety, according to breeders, appeared spontaneously due to cross-pollination of local and European vines. The grapes are widespread in Azerbaijan, Abkhazia, Georgia, Moldova, Crimea, Krasnodar region and the Volga region. Nog is also grown in the Black Earth regions, the cold region of the Moscow region and even harsh Siberia.

Why the variety is so named is a separate story. In 1816, a certain William Prince, a breeder from the United States, one wonderful day leisurely strolled through the garden of his friend Gibbs. His attention was attracted by the rich aroma emanating from the vine with dark blue berries. And then the delighted William named this grape variety Isabella, dedicating it to his friend’s wife. He later created Isabella Rosea, better known as the Lydia variety. There are also varieties of the white Isabella variety - Charvat and Noa.

Grapes arrived in the Soviet Union around the mid-20th century and were immediately used to make wine, which was exported to several dozen countries. But then the US announced that high concentrations of methanol, which leads to multiple sclerosis and vision loss, were detected in Isabella. Many winegrowers believe that commerce is to blame, because grapes compete successfully with other well-known brands. Moreover, it surpasses many in the richness of its bouquet and low cost. Plus, this variety is easy to grow.

Description and characteristics of the Isabella variety

Isabella grapes are a late-ripening, uncovered, technical variety. It is consumed fresh and in the form of juices, and is also used for making light homemade wine, compotes, jams and preserves.

The variety is popular due to its productivity, large fruit, excellent taste with soft strawberry notes, stability and good resistance to common diseases (phylloxera, podium, mildew), although it can be affected by anthracnose and chlorosis.

The shape of the bunch is often cylindrical, less often cone-shaped. A medium-sized brush weighing up to 250 g. But with favorable weather and good care, clusters of up to 2 kg or more can be grown. The berries are dark purple or dark blue in color, round, large, up to 2 cm in diameter, covered with a bluish-gray coating with a small number of seeds. On average, the berries weigh up to 3 g with sweet and sour, slightly slimy, yellow-greenish pulp. Thanks to the strong and very dense skin, the grapes are easily transportable. A distinctive feature of the Isabella grape variety is the taste of the berries, reminiscent of garden strawberries.

Important! The more clusters that grow on the vine, the smaller they will be. The average yield is between 50 and 60 kg.

This variety ripens late. The fruits are harvested in the fall, at the beginning of October, which allows you to enjoy delicious grapes when most varieties have already reached the end of their fruiting period. Moreover, the fact that the berries are already ripe and asking to be added to the basket will be indicated by the thinning aroma of nutmeg.

In addition to their pleasant taste, grape berries have a healing effect. Grape juice contains a large amount of phytoncides, which adds antibacterial properties to it. Antioxidants in berries help fight aging and skin aging.

Important! People suffering from stomach and intestinal diseases, as well as from edema and kidney disease should drink undiluted juice with caution.

Isabella grape jam

Advantages and disadvantages of the variety

Of the advantages of Isabella, gardeners note:

• Increased frost resistance. Without covering, grapes can withstand frost down to −28°C, which makes them possible to grow not only in relatively warm Ukraine, Moldova and the southern regions of Russia, but also in cooler regions, including the conditions of the Moscow region. If Isabella is covered for the winter, she will cope with frosts down to −35°C. Young shoots damaged by return frosts in the spring are replaced with new ones after 14-21 days.
• The variety does not require fertilizing and specific soil composition. This makes it easy to care for, allowing even inexperienced gardeners to achieve success in growing it.
• Increased immunity. Isabella is not susceptible to diseases that most varieties suffer from: gray rot, oidium, mildew, powdery mildew. Few are affected by phylloxera. Even if a tree affected by the disease grows nearby, this will not affect the grapes in any way.
• Resistance to waterlogged soils without rot.
• Unpretentiousness and ease of reproduction. Grape cuttings take root quickly and do not require special care.
• Low calorie content, so it can diversify the menu of a dieter.

Pruning is a process aimed at removing old and weak branches to form a vine bush.

Breeding and cultivation regions

Isabella gained fame back in the 19th century thanks to the American breeder William Prince. It is also believed that the birthplace of this grape variety is South Carolina. Russian winemakers met Isabella in the mid-20th century.

Today, the variety has spread everywhere and is found in dachas and farms not only in Russia, but also in Armenia, Moldova, Georgia, and Ukraine. The culture develops well and produces crops in areas with a temperate climate bordering on subtropical.

Rules for pruning grapes

To ensure the fruiting function of the grape bush, it is left with a pair of annual vines growing on a biennial plant. The cutting areas should be left in one place, on the inside. For this purpose, the shoots should be on the outside of the middle of the bush and below the tendrils. Incorrectly placed cut locations will impede the normal flow of juice in the grapes. Shoots that are a year old or more are removed and shoots of half a centimeter are left at the cutting sites. The size of the remaining parts is important, as it will affect the growth of the bush and its restoration. The cutting location for areas that have been growing on the bush for many years should be perpendicular to the axis.

Reviews from experienced winegrowers

Reviews of Isabella grapes are mostly positive. Winegrowers note not only the good yield of the crop, but also its decorative properties. You can decorate a summerhouse with vines or plant grapes along the fence so that the bushes wrap around it beautifully.

According to reviews, in most cases the berries are processed. The taste of the fruit is specific and not everyone likes it, but wine made from Isabella is in great demand

The Isabella grapes are inferior in taste to many hybrids, but this minus is more than compensated by the other positive qualities of the variety. In addition, grapes are widely used in winemaking and cooking. It is so unpretentious that it produces crops where other varieties would die.

Selecting a site for planting

Grapes of this subspecies can be grown in almost any soil. The main thing is that it contains sufficient fertile soil. The soil should also not be too loose or clayey.

Isabella feels most comfortable in sunny areas. Regular, juicy fruits are formed only with ample light. At the same time, the shrub is afraid of strong gusts of cold wind, so it must be placed in a place where the plant will be protected from drafts.

Isabella does not have increased frost resistance, so it is better not to plant it in lowlands. Cold air and moisture will collect there, which can destroy the bush.

Origin

The grape is a natural hybrid that resulted from the pollination of European noble grapes with pollen from the native American Vitis Labrusca.

The discovery of the new variety belongs to the breeder William Prince, who discovered it in 1816 on the lands of George Gibbs. The name of the new variety was allegedly given by the name of the landowner's wife.

During the spread of Isabella in America, and later in Europe, winegrowers noted its unpretentiousness, cold resistance and high yield.

The characteristic taste found both supporters and opponents, but Isabella gained a strong position in the second half of the 19th century thanks to its resistance to the original American pest - phylloxera, which destroyed entire hectares of vineyards in Europe.

At the end of the 20th century, Isabella was banned from growing for wine in the European Union and the United States, allegedly due to the presence of methyl alcohol and a “foxy” taste. Later, the health data was not confirmed, but the popularity of grapes decreased significantly.