A step-by-step guide for beginner gardeners: how to prune apricots correctly in spring

Apricot is a fruit tree of the Plum genus of the Rosaceae family. The harvest of juicy and soft fruits is collected from each tree for 30–40 years. Fruits contain magnesium, potassium, iron, vitamins A and B, are useful for anemia, anemia, heart and vascular diseases, improve digestion, have a beneficial effect on vision, and increase hemoglobin levels.

Like all fruit trees, this crop requires proper care, including spring pruning. We'll tell you how to properly prune apricots in the spring so that they produce a rich harvest.

Purposes of spring apricot pruning

The structure and optimal functioning of the apricot crown differs from other horticultural crops. The need for pruning is not only for aesthetic purposes. It is directly related to the full functioning of the apricot.

1. Regular spring pruning of excess, dry and damaged branches renews and increases the life of the tree.
2. Lush vegetation on the top of the apricot tree blocks the required amount of light. This interferes with photosynthesis and promotes the death of branches. Ovaries will form on the upper, well-lit part of the tree, making harvesting difficult.
3. Apricot is not able to independently regulate the number of fruits. In the absence of spring pruning, thinned branches may break under the weight of the fruit. And their size and taste deteriorate. After all, all nutrients will be directed to the growth and development of a dense crown.
4. Due to poor air circulation, rain moisture accumulates in the branches. Such conditions contribute to the decay of the tree bark and rotting. It becomes susceptible to attack by insects, fungi and other pests.
5. Apricot fruits are formed on young shoots and bouquet branches, which stop bearing fruit after about 2 years. If you do not renew the crown and do not create conditions for the development of new shoots, the number of ovaries is reduced. This indicator negatively affects the yield of the tree.

Regular and abundant fruiting can be achieved only with annual and properly pruned branches.

Pruning a young apricot

Formative pruning is applied to young apricots to obtain the selected type of crown. As a rule, this process occurs from the moment of planting for 4–5 years. By the age of six, the crown of the tree should be fully formed.

Types of crown formation

Before starting pruning, the gardener must choose the shape of the crown of the future tree.

• Most often, apricots are given a sparsely tiered crown shape as the most common. This formation is especially suitable for tall trees, since it is designed to restrain their growth.
• Recently, the formation of a crown in the form of a bowl has been gaining popularity. It is more suitable for plants of medium and small stature.
• In areas with harsh climates and a lot of snow in winter, some gardeners use slate molding.

Optimal time for the procedure

The right time to prune apricots is early spring, after the night frosts have stopped. Removal of unwanted branches should be carried out before the growing season. After all, at this time the process of circulation of wood liquid (sap flow) begins. If you start pruning the apricot at this time, then if the trunk is mechanically damaged, the tree sap will begin to flow out. In this regard, the garden crop will not be able to be adequately saturated with nutrients and minerals. This will negatively affect the further development of the plant and the formation of ovaries.

The timing of tree pruning depends on the weather conditions of the region. In the southern zone - late February, early March. In the middle zone - mid-March. In the northern regions, the optimal time for pruning is the end of March, beginning of April. In any case, the air temperature should not be lower than + 8 °C.

When to prune in spring

The manipulation is carried out during the period of least activity of the tree, until sap flow begins . To do this, a stable positive air temperature must be established.

Important! Removing too many branches will kill the tree, so pruning should be done sparingly.

In the southern regions, the procedure is carried out at the first warming (in the first ten days of March), in regions where the climate is unstable - in early April, in the northern regions - no earlier than the second half of the month.

Favorable days

Plants are influenced by lunar cycles , so many people follow the recommendations of the lunar calendar in gardening work. Apricots are pruned during the waning moon, in its third and fourth phases.

Favorable days for pruning in March : 3, 4, 11, 18, 19, 22, 23, 28, 29. In April: 1, 4, 5, 14, 15.

Basic rules and equipment for pruning

In order to increase and improve the quality of the harvest, it is necessary to trim at least one third of the shoots every year. This promotes the formation of new shoots and regular renewal of the crown.

In order for pruning to be effective and safe for the tree, you must adhere to the following rules:

• it is necessary to have time to carry out the procedure before the tree begins to bloom;
• the branch should be cut at least 6 mm above the bud;
• the main skeletal branches should be cut at an angle of 45°;
• every year the number of pruned branches should increase by 20%;
• all branches pointing downward, as well as shoots growing in the middle, should be removed;
• it is necessary to remove damaged and dry shoots, as well as branches older than 6 years;
• the length of the trunk must be at least 2 m from the ground;
• Complete rejuvenation of apricots is carried out every 3 years.

List of required tools

To avoid the formation of germs on the saw, it is recommended to use only disinfected, sharp tools. Dirty equipment can cause the tree to become infected.

• pruning shears
  are designed to remove thin shoots;
• a garden saw
  is used to cut thick branches;
• twine
  may be needed to secure branches;
• a lopper
  with a long handle is necessary for removing high-lying branches;
• the knife
  is used to clean the cut area;
• a stepladder
  is necessary for trimming the upper parts of the crown;
• a fine-grained whetstone
  can be useful for sharpening tools that have become dull during work;
• A 1% solution of copper sulfate
  is necessary for disinfecting tools before pruning and
  treating
  sections of branches affected by fungal disease;
• Garden varnish
  is used to process cuts larger than 1 cm in diameter.

Thus, it follows that thick branches are removed with a saw, thinner ones with garden pruners, and the cut areas are cleaned with a knife.

It is necessary to treat the cut areas with special means. It is prohibited to use chemical paint or unrotted manure for these purposes. These methods may cause burns. This will negatively affect the life of the apricot.

Tree pruning depending on the season

A gardener is always full of work - the garden needs care in any season. Apricot pruning can be done at any time of the year. Seasonal events have distinctive features, let's look at them.

Spring

Pruning begins when March is almost over. Conditions for starting the procedure:

• comfortable ambient temperature;
• lack of active sap flow.

Correctly performed spring pruning is the key to high yields while maintaining the high taste characteristics of the fruit.

Spring activities include the following work:

• formation of the correct crown;
• planning sanitary and supportive procedures;
• removal of frozen and broken branches - so that the tree’s strength is not spent on restoring damaged shoots.

Summer

Until June 15, gardeners carry out chasing - rejuvenating pruning. From mid-May they begin to make shelling. All shoots that appeared in the new year are pinched - 20-25 cm.

Summer pruning is not carried out annually - only once every 3-4 years. The procedure sometimes has to be postponed due to insufficient moisture in the crop.

Summer pruning of apricot is carried out for the purpose of rejuvenation. All young shoots are trimmed, leaving no more than 20-30 cm in length. The shoots that appear after two weeks should be left with no more than 3-4 shoots, all others should be cut off.

Autumn

Autumn activities boil down to clearing the tree of diseased shoots. All branches are shortened by 30%, only the skeletal ones are left untouched. Pruning is best done in mid-October. In rainy weather or during frosts, events are not held. Thanks to autumn care, it is possible to maintain a balance of fruiting and non-fruiting branches.

Winter

Winter is the ideal time to prune branches and shape the crown. At this time, the plant has not yet “woke up”, which means that removing the branches will be less painful for the plant.

In winter, branches must be pruned at a temperature not lower than minus 8°C. In severe frosts, wood becomes brittle and the healing time of wounds increases.

Winter pruning tasks:

• formation of new shoots;
• maintaining the health of the culture.

Benefits of winter activities:

• there is no foliage - the condition of the crown is clearly visible;
• the plant experiences less stress;
• frozen wood is easier to saw - no marks are formed, which usually appear when working with a hacksaw or pruning shears;
• it is easier to install the ladder - there is no danger of damaging neighboring trees.

Types of spring pruning of apricot trees

There are different types of pruning to achieve certain goals and solve problems. They differ in terms and process technology. The basic rule to remember is: “Regardless of the method of crown formation, all lateral processes on the main branches must be shorter than the conductor (central trunk).”

Types of tree pruning

1. Formative is used to form the leafy part of apricot and stimulate the formation of fruit shoots. This pruning is carried out on young seedlings until they reach the age of fruiting trees. This is necessary in order to set the base of the tree. Its main (skeletal) branches will subsequently determine the direction of growth of crown shoots. The pruning process is carried out in the spring until the buds open.
2. Regulatory is aimed at regulating the relationship between growth and development and productivity. Increases the degree of illumination and ventilation of the crown due to thinning. All crooked, randomly growing branches are removed. The procedure is carried out for fruit-bearing trees.
3. Rejuvenating is used to remove old, weakened shoots in order to extend the life of the tree and improve the quality and quantity of the harvest. To thin out the crown, several large branches, lower and cross shoots are cut down. This pruning is carried out every 3-4 years in early spring.
4. Sanitation helps remove dried, broken, frozen, diseased and infected shoots to avoid infection of the tree. This pruning can be carried out at any stage of tree growth.

The choice of one type of pruning or another directly depends on the age and condition of the tree.

Types of pruning

In one season, apricots are subjected to five types of pruning:

• Formative. This pruning is necessary for normal branching and the formation of branches on the first tier. Allows you to design the shape of the crown and create a strong skeleton. Seedlings aged 4-5 years are exposed.
• Regulatory . Maintains crown shape. The essence of the process is thinning, adjusting and directing the shoots. Seedlings are pruned from 6-7 years old and annually - as long as the tree lives and bears fruit.
• Sanitary. It involves removing branches affected by pests and diseases. This pruning is carried out throughout the life of the plant.
• Restorative. For trees with neglected or damaged crowns. Only plants at 5-9 years of age can be corrected. After this age, you can only remove damaged branches.
• Rejuvenating. Allows you to restore fruiting in old trees. There comes a time when the growth of shoots slows down - they grow by less than 30 cm per season, and fruiting shifts to the periphery of the crown.

Without formative pruning it is impossible to form the correct branching; other options are needed to maintain the tree “in shape”. The plant should:

• well illuminated by sunlight;
• have a regular, not overgrown crown;
• give high yields.

Trees that have withstood winter frosts without consequences do not need to undergo restorative pruning.

Types of slice

A ring cut (a growth at the base of a branch) is used when it is necessary to completely remove an entire branch. To do this, it is cut down under the base from top to bottom parallel to the trunk. The cutting area must be level.

The cut “on the bud” is made to form new fruit formations and give the desired direction of growth. Pruning occurs above the bud (0.5 cm above) at an angle to avoid the formation of bacteria and the complete death of the shoot.

Pinching or pinching stimulates the development of lateral processes. To do this, you need to cut the shoot in length by a third. Blinding the buds prevents unnecessary shoots from growing back. At the germination stage, the vegetative bud is pinched off.

Pruning apricot seedlings

The formation of an apricot crown begins with shortening the seedling during planting. This is usually done at a distance of 60–80 cm from the ground. An exception is the case when they want to give the apricot a stylized crown shape, then the seedling is cut by 20–30 cm. If there are branches, they are shortened by a third.

An apricot seedling is cut 60–80 cm above the ground, the branches are shortened by a third of the length

In areas with a harsh climate and thick snow cover, apricots are often grafted onto frost-resistant rootstocks to a considerable height - up to 1–1.5 meters. In this case, pruning of the seedling should be carried out above the grafting site, above which at least 4–5 buds or twigs are left.

Methods of crown formation

The choice of crown shape depends on the growing conditions. Experienced gardeners recommend choosing a sparsely tiered form of apricot. If the area is poorly lit, you should choose a cup-shaped crown.

The foundation for the crown should be laid when planting the seedling. To do this, it is necessary to shorten its above-ground part to 60-80 cm in height. If there are shoots, they need to be shortened by 1/3 of the length. Next, the sequence of pruning the future tree will be carried out in accordance with the selected shape.

Sparsely tiered form

The formation of the crown using the tiered method is carried out gradually over the first four years after planting. This should be done according to the following algorithm:

1. In the first year of growth, it is necessary to trim the trunk of the seedling by a quarter. Leave 2 skeletal branches with a pair of young shoots on opposite sides of the conductor. Cut off excess branches to make a ring. The initial tier of branches should be located at a level of 50-60 cm from the ground.
2. By next season, these 2 shoots need to be shortened. The crown already consists of 5-6 skeletal branches approximately 60 cm long.
3. After 1-2 years, the second tier of branches is formed in the same way. At this stage, full growth of skeletal increments is observed.
4. In the third year of growth, the length of the skeletal branches at the base should be trimmed to 30 cm. The next tiers are formed with a distance of 45-55 cm.
5. The semi-skeletal processes should be arranged in groups with an interval of up to 50 cm. To make the crown shape less spreading, the skeletal branches in relation to the conductor should be located at an acute angle.
6. Weak and thin lateral shoots should be pinched until they become stronger.

This method is suitable for southern regions. It significantly saves space due to its moderately compact crown.

Bowl shaped

The cup-shaped crown arrangement of the branches opens up access to light and air circulation. Creates favorable conditions for the rapid ripening of juicy and large fruits.

Crown trimming steps:

1. In the first year of seedling growth, about 5 main branches are selected to form a bowl, growing on the same tier and directed in different directions. The remaining shoots are cut off.
2. In the second and 2 subsequent years, these branches are shortened to a length of up to 50 cm from the base of the tree. Then young shoots on the trunk are cut off, forming a rosette branch.
3. Thus, the shoots develop in the same way. Each tier should be shorter than the previous one. When the crown reaches the shape of a bowl, the central conductor is cut off.

This method is more suitable for low-growing apricot varieties. And also for crops growing in harsh or moderate climatic conditions.

Leader form

It is an arbitrary crown shape. The main branches grow evenly at the same distance throughout the tree trunk. In the fifth year of apricot life, the conductor is cut off. A mature tree has a moderate crown and average height. This greatly simplifies its maintenance and harvesting process.

Flat shape

This method is used for landscape design of a small space. The crown consists of several tiers of skeletal branches located opposite each other. This apricot performs a decorative function, so you shouldn’t count on a rich harvest in this case.

Transferring a branch to a side shoot

This method helps prevent the necessary branches from growing upward and makes them bear fruit. To change their direction, a shoot is selected on the shoot, growing in the desired position. The section of this branch located behind the shoot is cut off. Gradually it will develop horizontally, changing the direction of growth.

If necessary, a new shoot can be redirected in the same way to an internal or external bud. In the first case, this is done to thicken the crown, and in the second, to thin it out.

Using these methods you can adjust the shape and diameter of the crown.

How to prune young and old apricots: shaping and rejuvenating pruning

Depending on the age of the trees, the specifics of pruning also differ - the formation of a young apricot (from the moment the seedling is planted) and the rejuvenation of the old crop.

A shaping procedure is carried out for young seedlings, which helps to form the crown and strengthen the tree’s skeleton. For old trees, a rejuvenating procedure is used, the purpose of which is to restore regularity of fruiting.

Methods (types) of apricot formation: types of crowns

Any pruning should be based on the shaping!

However, you need to understand that shaping and trimming are different actions. If you can still “get weird” with the shaping (get creative), then you need to make cuts only according to the rules.

The method of formation depends on the vigor of the apricot (variety) (what kind of rootstock it is - weak, medium or vigorous) and its ability to branch. It is also important to know what you want to get: a lot of fruits or you just need a beautifully decorated tree.

Tree crown types

• discharged-tiered;

One of the most popular types of shaping fruit trees, including apricots.

• cup-shaped (vase-shaped);

The second most popular type of shaping and, perhaps, the most popular for shaping apricots.

• fusiform (Spindle bush);

• flat forms - palmettes and cordons;
• and many others.

The theory of forming an apricot into a bowl is described in detail and clearly shown in the following videos:

Video: pruning apricot 1 year after planting for future shaping into a bowl

Video: pruning apricot 2 years after planting (forming in the form of a bowl)

Discharged-tiered apricot formation: pruning a 1,2,3,4 year old tree

As a rule, young apricots are formed every spring, however, autumn formative pruning is also allowed (but very undesirable).

Note! Which specific branches to remove and which ones to leave, how exactly to trim them - everything is described in detail and clearly shown (in the diagrams) in the previous paragraphs.

Next, let's look at how to properly shape an apricot if you have chosen the open-tiered type of shaping:

Note! As a rule, a 1-2 year old seedling is planted .

• immediately after spring planting (i.e. we already have a 1 or 2 year old seedling), the main branch (central conductor), or rather the top, is cut into 3-4 buds (leave a height of 80-100 cm) so that the tree has side branches, in other words, the first tier has formed.

It is better to break out all the lower buds so that the tree directs all its forces to the development of the top - the future skeletal branches of the first tier.

• in the 2nd year - the tree forms lateral branches, which should be cut off by 1/3 of their length (to the outer bud), and only the 2-3 strongest ones should be left (ideally 3), growing horizontally in different directions, and the rest should be cut out "on the ring." You should also cut the top of the central trunk (conductor) to a height of 60-80 cm from the branching of the first tier (from the uppermost side branch) so that the next (second) tier of skeletal branches begins to form. And don’t forget about subordination (pruning should be done at the same level).

Worth knowing! The distance between the tiers of skeletal branches should be approximately as follows: 60-80 cm - between the first and second tier and 30-50 cm - between the second and third. Between the branches themselves in one tier is 10-15 cm. The height of the trunk is 50-80 cm (but 80-100 cm is possible).

• for the 3rd year - the side branches are cut off again, as well as young growth (second order branches) on these branches, again by 1/3, “per bud”. In addition, now you need to leave 2-3 branches (ideally 3) of the second tier, also cutting them by 1/3. The top of the central trunk is cut again, but already 30-50 centimeters from the second tier, so that the next (third) tier is formed.

There must be one central conductor (main trunk), so all its competitors must be cut into a ring.

• for the 4th year - the last year of apricot formation (if you form in 3 tiers). Everything is done similarly to the previous year (the continuation shoots are shortened and the side branches are cut off), with one exception: if 3 tiers are enough for you, then 2 strong shoots are left for the 3rd tier, the top itself is cut “into a ring”, transferring to a side branch (3 branch).

Do not forget to follow the principle of subordination of branches , tier 1 - the longest branches, tier 2 - shorter, tier 3 - the shortest.

• For the 5th year and beyond , it is already necessary to carry out anti-aging pruning, and also not to lose attention to sanitary and thinning.

Advice! The optimal height of a tree from which it is convenient to harvest is no more than 3.5-4 meters, and even better, 2-3 m.

How to shape an apricot into a bowl: pruning a 1 or 2 year old tree

If you want to form an apricot in the form of a bowl (simple), then pruning is carried out in the following sequence (by year):

• Immediately after spring planting or in 1 year - if there are no branches (side branches) on the seedling, you need to cut the main branch (central conductor) to a height of 50-60 cm (60-80 is possible) so that the tree has lateral branches.

Note! As a rule, a 1-2 year old seedling is planted , i.e. if the seedling already has branches, so see the next step.

• The next year (year 2) - the tree forms lateral branches, which should be cut back by 1/3 (leaving 30-50 cm) to the outer bud. In this case, you need to leave only 3-4 of the strongest ones (those growing close to the ground are also not suitable), growing at an angle (more horizontally than vertically) in different directions. Also, by transferring to a side shoot, you should cut off the top “into a ring”.
• For the 2nd or 3rd year . Annual growths have formed on each of the lateral branches. Now you need to select 2-3 shoots on each branch, and cut all the rest, which are located close to the trunk and thicken the crown, “into a ring.” The 2-3 remaining shoots are shortened by about 1/3, leaving 30-50 cm.

As a result, your bowl-shaped tree should have 8-12 main branches (3-4 first-order and 4-8 second-order), from which you will receive crops year after year.

Naturally, in the future you will have to trim them - regulate their growth and carry out anti-aging pruning.

In the following video, the author shows a not entirely classic bowl shape:

Video: shaping an apricot into a late or late bowl shape

Important! Do not forget to bleach apricots in the fall or late winter-early spring (similar to apple trees) , especially young ones, because their bark is still thin and can easily burn. Whitewashed to protect against sunburn, especially at the end of winter, when trees on the south side receive an increased dose of solar insolation, directly from the sun, and also reflected from the snow. You can, of course, not whitewash it, but shade it on the south side, for example, with a wide board or wrap it in non-woven material (spunbond).

Video: shaping an apricot with a low crown (cup-shaped)

Rejuvenating an old apricot

If you have an old apricot tree in your garden that bears little fruit, then to improve its yield and increase its lifespan, you can and should rejuvenate it.

Important! The main sign of the need for anti-aging pruning of apricot is weak annual growth of branches - less than 20 cm.

However, first you should make sure that the selected tree is old but healthy, in other words, whether it is sick. Otherwise, rejuvenation will only hasten his death.

The essence of rejuvenating apricot pruning in the spring is to replace old branches with new, younger and more fertile ones.

Important! Moreover, the rejuvenation of old trees should be carried out gradually, over several years. In other words, pruning should be moderate; you don’t need to cut out everything (listed below) in the first year.

If you remove too many branches at once , the apricot may become spindly (produce many branches). However, everything can be easily corrected by summer pinching (removing green young shoots - tops, if they grew “in the wrong place” or went to grow “in the wrong direction”).

Step-by-step instructions for rejuvenating pruning of an old apricot in the spring:

Remember! You only need to trim “for a ring” by removing “for transfer” (for lateral branching), this is how old branches are replaced by younger ones - rejuvenating pruning is carried out.

• First of all, all diseased, dry and broken branches must be removed (sanitary pruning).
• Next, you need to get rid of the lower branches that literally hang above the ground.
• Completely cut out “in a ring” all unnecessary and interfering branches that thicken and shade the crown (growing inside the crown, crossing, competing, growing in a “fork”).

When rejuvenating, the advice is especially relevant that it is better to remove one large old branch than to cut off or trim (“to the bud”) a huge number of young thin shoots.

• Get rid of all the tops (vertical branches - “wen”), again “on the ring”.

Advice! The tops can be used to graft apricots .

• Pinch (cut to a “bud”) all young shoots whose height is more than 40-50 cm.

Video: proper anti-aging pruning of apricot in spring

You can also watch this detailed video about the principles of anti-aging pruning of old trees:

Video: how to prune an old and neglected tree - spring pruning

By the way! There is a radical way to rejuvenate a very old apricot (pruning to stumps). You can watch about it in the following video:

Video: hard pruning of apricot

How to maintain the crown or what to do if the tree grows upward

Obviously, trees should not be left unattended. It is enough not to trim the apricot for a couple of years for it to “fly” upward.

Of course, you don’t have to do anything, but in order for you to be able to harvest normally and treat apricots against diseases and pests , it is simply necessary to restrain the crown of the tree.

That is why, first of all, in this situation, you need to carry out thinning pruning , and at the end, remove all the tallest vertical shoots “ by transferring them into the ring” to the lateral ones, in other words, transfer the direction of growth of the main branches to a horizontal position.

However, you should not cut out all the vertical branches at once, but you can enhance their fruiting by making small cuts above each vegetative (growth) bud with a hacksaw , which will cause the formation of shoots on which flower (fruit) buds will form.

You can also shorten by 1/3 all of last year's growth , which formed at the tips of the upper branches, i.e. at the very top, “on the kidney” .

Moreover, this must be done every spring, because the tree must grow somewhere and produce annual growth every year.

Video: how to trim an apricot to retain the crown and preserve the harvest

and complementary:

Pruning an old tree

Rejuvenating an apricot will help prolong its life and preserve its fruiting ability. The process should be carried out measuredly, over several seasons. The frequency of the procedure is about 10 years.

For these purposes, it is necessary to remove the secondary shoots of skeletal branches “to the ring”. This will provoke the formation of new shoots. Having selected the correctly growing fruitful branches, the rest must be removed. During the growth of young animals, it is imperative to thin out excess growth. In a couple of years, these shoots will bear fruit.

A drastic measure is to remove 2-3 skeletal branches at a distance of approximately 30 cm from the trunk. When the formation of shoots from dormant buds begins, the new, strongest skeletal branch is selected. The rest are cut down. It is not recommended to cut several skeletal branches at once. An old tree may not have enough strength to recover.

Second year

Spring pruning of the apricot of the second year continues the formation of the tree crown. Its main goal is to lay down several main branches. Like pruning last year, it begins with sanitary measures to remove weak and diseased branches. Let's look at the algorithm for pruning second-year apricots in more detail.

1. First you need to select several strong branches that are located at a distance of about 30 cm not only from each other, but also from last year’s shoots.
2. Selected branches are pruned subordinately, i.e. the lower ones should be longer than the upper ones. In this case, the main conductor rises 40 cm above the last side branch.
3. The shoots that grew on skeletal branches over the past season are shortened depending on the variety. In rapidly growing species they are reduced by half, in moderately growing species - by a third.

Apricot care after pruning

The final stage of thinning is processing the cut sites. This event is mandatory for the painless restoration of the apricot after planned pruning.

New cuts and damage must be treated with garden varnish or special putty. Places of sawn branches thicker than 10 cm are disinfected with a solution of copper sulfate, and then a varnish is applied.

To treat cuttings, gardeners use wax or lanolin (wax of animal origin). Natural drying oil, linseed oil and brilliant green are also suitable. Many gardeners use RanNet putty paste. As an alternative, you can mix iodine with alcohol in a 1:1 ratio.

Nitrogen or phosphorus fertilizers contribute to the rapid restoration of the tree.

Further care

After removing the shoots, the sections must be disinfected. Garden varnish is used for processing. It is possible to use an alternative option - oil paint with drying oil in its composition. Cuts with a diameter of up to 3 cm do not need to be lubricated; the plant will not react to this damage. Otherwise, after removing the shoots, continue to care for the plants as before.

Useful tips

Spring pruning of apricot requires certain skills and knowledge. Many gardeners do not like to engage in this time-consuming and routine process. But to obtain a large harvest, this procedure must be carried out annually.

• apricot is a heat-loving crop, so for planting it you should choose the sunny side of the site;
• when planting several seedlings, you should leave room for full growth and development so that the grown crops do not shade each other;
• from the moment of planting and during the first four years, tree pruning should not be skipped - this is the fundamental period of crown formation;
• pruning in spring involves completely freeing the main branches from secondary shoots;
• it is imperative to observe the priority of tiers;
• a young apricot seedling should be pruned for the first time in the spring, in this case it will have more time to recover before the winter dormancy period;
• It is recommended to pinch weak but fruitful shoots until they become stronger, so as not to break under the weight of ripe apricots;
• if wintering is successful, it is necessary to inspect the tree; it may not require restorative pruning;
• Apricot pruning should be done in one day;
• Each subsequent pruning should begin with sanitary procedures (removal of dry and damaged shoots).

Regular care and pruning of apricots contributes to a bountiful harvest and a long fruiting period. A properly grown, well-groomed tree will delight you with the taste and abundance of its fruit for many years.

Features of the procedure in different growing regions

The abundance of apricot varieties allows them to be grown in different regions . Special climatic conditions require their own approach to growing and pruning.

It is easier to cultivate apricots in the southern regions, Crimea, Kuban, and Ukraine.

In the middle zone and Siberia, where the climate is more severe, the requirements for crop care are stricter. The main difference between regions is the timing of pruning. The warmer the climate, the earlier the pruning is carried out.

In the southern regions, spring pruning is supplemented with summer pruning. The procedure is carried out in the third decade of June. A prerequisite for summer pruning is abundant watering.

Many gardeners in Siberia and other regions where harsh winters prevail recommend not carrying out the procedure in the fall to prevent freezing. For the same purpose, branches are not cut down to the base.

Nuances for columnar apricot

Columnar apricot is called for its appearance : the tree has practically no side branches, and the fruits are located along the entire length of the main trunk. The fruits themselves are fragrant and large.

The formation of the crown of a columnar apricot must be carried out twice a year - in spring and autumn

To trim a columnar apricot, the main shoot is shortened to 90 cm . Leave 2-3 branches directed upward. Half of them are cut off. Side shoots are shortened annually to 20 cm, leaving at least 3 buds on each.

Dried branches and without ovaries are removed. The plant is pruned in the fall, in October, and in the spring, at the end of March.

Why is apricot pruned?

The need to prune apricot trees is caused by several reasons:

1. The need for good lighting. The thickening of the apricot crown leads to a reduction in the formation of flower buds and drying out of the branches.
2. The need for either rationing or stimulating the harvest. In an apricot, almost the entire ovary bears fruit, which naturally leads to overloading of the tree - breaking off branches, reducing the growth of new shoots and the formation of a fruitful ovary, and reducing productivity. On the other hand, without pruning, the branches quickly become bald, fruiting is transferred to the periphery and becomes scarce.

Let's take a closer look at each of the points.

Yield rationing

Fruit laying on apricot trees occurs on bouquet branches and spurs that grow mainly on the shoots of the previous year.

Accordingly, to obtain a good apricot harvest, it is necessary to ensure a strong growth of young shoots. To do this, adhere to the following algorithm:

• 1-2 lateral branches are shortened, leaving 5 centimeter branches for strongly branching varieties or 15 centimeter branches for weakly branching apricots. During the growing season, 3-4 strong shoots and several weak ones are formed on such knots;
• next year, the most powerful shoot is shortened, cutting off to 10 cm, and the rest - by 1/3 of their length. During the growing season, twigs with flower buds are formed on them, and long shoots are formed on the twig;
• the next year, the most powerful of these shoots is again shortened by a branch, and the rest by 1/3 of the length. The fruit branches formed in the previous year are harvested;
• short branches that bear fruit are cut to the bottom branch or into a ring, and dead spurs are removed.

Crown thinning

If you do not prune, the young tree actively forms a crown in the first years and produces good yields, but then, 4-5 years after planting, the situation changes radically. As the crown grows, becomes bald in the middle and thickens at the periphery, fewer ovaries are formed, and the marketable quality of the fruit deteriorates. Carrying out preventive pruning allows you to:

• increase light and air permeability of the crown;
• stimulate the growth of shoots and the formation of flower buds;
• adjust the number of fruits on the branches;
• reduce the likelihood of tree damage by pests and diseases;
• extend the life and fruiting life of apricots;
• simplify harvesting.

Depending on the purpose of preventive pruning, timing and specifics of implementation, pruning is divided into several types.

1. Formative - allows you to get a powerful and at the same time well-lit crown. In addition, it is used to stimulate the growth of branches. This type of pruning is carried out on young trees, before they enter the fruiting period.
2. Sanitary – carried out in the spring-summer-autumn season with the aim of cleaning the tree from dried, diseased or frozen branches.
3. Regulating – carried out on mature, already fruit-bearing trees. Its goal is to maintain an optimal ratio between leafy and fruiting branches.
4. Rejuvenating - practiced for old apricot trees, because with age, the growth rate of shoots decreases from 0.8 - 1 meter to 20 centimeters. Thinning is carried out in early spring or early summer, by removing 1-2 large branches inside the crown, shoots on the trunk, and side shoots on the lower tiers.

What tools to use?

For spring pruning of apricots, like any fruit tree, you cannot use any tools. There are special devices that are used to carry out the procedure and only they are suitable for this work, otherwise the risk of damage and infection of the tree increases. So, what tools should you have with you?

Apricot pruning tools

• Air or hand pruning shears;
• Garden saw;
• Triangular file;
• Special paste (to disinfect cut areas);
• Sharpening tool for sharpening secateurs;
• Means for covering the cut area (garden pitch, paint).

All instruments are cleaned and washed before use. If the pruning shears or file that the gardener uses are dirty, an infection may be introduced into the “wound” of the tree when pruning.

Why prune apricots in spring?

Pruning is the basis of tree care. It is difficult to do, and not everyone succeeds, but pruning allows you to shape the crown, remove excess, dry, damaged branches and lighten the tree’s load.

Pruning allows you to shape the crown, remove excess, dry, damaged branches and lighten the tree

If you do everything correctly, apricot fruiting will increase every year, the fruits will have the rich taste inherent in a particular variety, the correct color, size, shape. As for the tree itself, it will be strong, with an excellent immune system. Diseases and pests will bother him much less.

However, you can’t just delete branches you don’t like; you need to do this correctly and at the right time. Spring pruning of apricots is one of the most responsible and important periods affecting the yield and condition of apricots. It is done, first of all, so that the tree has a beautiful and regular crown.

Types and timing of pruning

There are different schemes for proper pruning of apricots in spring and other seasons of the year. Each is used for a specific purpose.

Many people are interested in the question of when is the best time to prune an apricot in spring, summer or autumn-winter. Experienced gardeners recommend planning work in early spring, before the tree “awakens,” or in the summer, after fruiting has finished. Autumn and winter pruning also has its advantages.

More specific dates depend on the climatic conditions of the region. For example, in spring it is the beginning of March - the last days of April. During the day, the air temperature should be within +60 ˚С during the day. The likelihood of return frosts should be reduced to zero.

Trimming methods

Apricot pruning in spring, summer and autumn for beginners and experienced gardeners is carried out in several ways. The most effective of them are described below.

Pruning "to the bud"

Fruit trees are pruned using this method in order to remove the ends of branches caught by frost. It is also suitable for shortening too long branches and thinning the crown. The shoots are cut off so that the outer bud remains, which will be directed outside the crown. This will help give the branches the right direction.

The cut should go diagonally (the lower edge at the base of the bud). It is not recommended to cut off more than 1/3 of the total number of shoots at one time. In adult apricots, formative pruning “to the bud” is carried out over several years.

Ring trimming

This method of pruning apricots in spring and other seasons is applicable when the shoot is completely eliminated. That is, it is cut as close as possible to the parent branch or to the trunk. After this, an influx on the bark is visualized at the base of the shoot, which seems to ring it. In this place there are cells that can actively reproduce. Therefore, when pruning an apricot in the spring “on the ring”, the cut quickly tightens.

The procedure is carried out in several stages:

1. On large branches, a notch is made on the lower side (1/3 of the thickness). This will allow you to trim the branches as painlessly as possible for the apricot.
2. Next, the branch is sawn from above and removed.
3. The resulting stump is cut off along the ring.
4. The cut area is cleaned with a garden knife. If it is smooth, it will heal faster.
5. The fresh “wound” is disinfected.

When performing pruning using this method, some make the mistake of cutting off the ring itself or leaving a stump. In both cases, the tree will begin to rot. It is also possible that hollows may appear, become infected, or become infested with pests.

There are situations when, when pruning an apricot in the spring, it is not possible to find a ring. There is only one solution to the problem - the cut is made “on a bevel”. For this purpose, a line is drawn with a marker at the base of the shoot to be removed, along the trunk. The second mark is placed at the intersection of the shoot and the trunk, at an angle of 90˚. The resulting angle is divided into two equal parts. A cut is made in the middle of the corner.

Appearance and size of apricot tree

The apricot tree is a fairly tall garden crop. Tall varieties can reach up to 12 m in height. A wide spreading crown develops a round or slightly elongated shape. The thickness of the trunk can exceed half a meter in diameter. The height of the trunk is 40-60 cm. The bark of an adult tree has a grayish-brown tint. And young shoots are red and green.

Blooming apricot tree

The root system consists of a central core and lateral shoots. The depth of the roots is from 30 to 50 cm. The radius of the apricot root system is 2 times the projection of the crown, which must be taken into account when planting seedlings and cultivating the land near the tree.

Is it possible to do without pruning?

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Very often, gardeners ignore spring pruning, and everyone else too, not knowing what this can lead to.

If apricot pruning is ignored in the spring, the crown of the tree will grow greatly. This will lead to early fruiting of the trees, but after 3-4 years the condition of the tree will deteriorate sharply. The crown will be extensive and thickened. Inside it will be almost completely bare, and outside the abundance of branches will not allow one to get into the middle even to collect the fruits.

The branches of such a tree grow thin, long, and will always bend dangerously under the weight of the fruit. The fruits themselves will become smaller, their taste may deteriorate, since the tree simply will not have enough strength for active growth, feeding all these branches and simultaneous ripening of the fruits. Fruiting will begin once every 1-2 years, which gardeners do not like.

Since the apricot does not “normalize” the yield on the tree, all its flowers can become fruits, such a tree will be greatly overloaded, and it will be difficult to cut off the extra ovaries, since the height and volume of the “giant” may not allow this to be done. All this awaits a tree that is not pruned in the spring, and, therefore, this procedure is extremely necessary.

Anti-aging pruning

Due to the high rate of shoot growth characteristic of apricots, rejuvenating pruning of old trees gives good results. It is carried out when the growth of annual shoots is less than 30 cm, which leads to exposure of skeletal branches and movement of fruiting to the periphery, its frequency, and a decrease in yield.

To rejuvenate an apricot, its old skeletal branches are cut out, leaving no more than a third of their length growing inward, extra tops, and drooping branches. The next year, new skeletal branches are selected from the young shoots, after which the crown is formed in accordance with the rules for young trees. Rejuvenation is carried out in stages - over 3 seasons:

• in the first year, only 1/3 of the old branches are removed, and the young ones that replace them are redirected to the outside with the help of stretch marks;
• the procedure is repeated the next year, with the second third of the old branches and overgrown tops removed;

• The final renewal of the crown occurs in the 3rd year, when the last third of the old branches are removed.