Bell pepper: from buying seeds to harvesting

Peculiarities

The yield indicator is most often determined by the quality of the seeds. You can purchase them in the store or collect them yourself from fully ripened peppers.

Important! To obtain planting material, it is permissible to use only varietal peppers, since hybrids lose their maternal characteristics when re-sowed.

Rules for growing seedlings

When cultivating pepper seedlings, you should adhere to several recommendations.

Compliance with sowing deadlines

Pepper is characterized by a long growing season. In the middle zone, seedlings are planted in closed ground approximately 90 days after emergence (early June), and after 1-2 months the harvest ripens. In this case, February or early March is preferable for sowing seeds.

In regions with a mild climate, late-ripening varieties and hybrids are sown in early February, and mid-season and early varieties of peppers are sown at the end of this month.

Pre-sowing activities

Preparation of seed material before sowing includes several procedures:

• calibration and rejection of seeds;
• hardening;
• processing for the purpose of disinfection;
• fertilizing with a bioregulator to improve germination;
• germination.

Preparing the soil and container

Land for growing seedlings can be purchased in a store or prepared independently; in the latter case, subsequent processing is required, carried out in one of the following ways:

• refrigeration (from -15°C) for approximately 1 week;
• steaming;
• disinfection using chemicals.

Important! To sow pepper seeds, it is recommended to use boxes made of wood or plastic, since peat containers give an acidic reaction that inhibits plant growth.

Sowing seeds and further care

The sowing procedure is carried out as follows:

• preparing small grooves or pits with a depth of 1.5 cm and an interval of 2 cm between them;
• watering the resulting depressions;
• laying out seeds and then covering them with soil;
• hydration;
• covering with film or glass.

Features of caring for seedlings

To ensure full development of seedlings before picking, the following conditions are created:

• daytime temperature – from +26 to +28°C , at night – from +20 to +24°C , while for hybrid varieties it is recommended to raise it by about 3°C ​​higher;
• good lighting for at least 15 hours a day , if necessary, organize additional lighting;
• moderate watering.

Picking

The procedure is carried out after the seedlings have formed 2-3 full-fledged leaves, usually this occurs on the 14-20th day from the moment of their appearance.

Important! Young plants with 5-6 leaves have a more developed root system, which is easily damaged during transplantation.

As a rule, cardboard or plastic cups with pre-made holes for drainage are used for picking.

Feeding and protection against diseases

During the growing process, pepper seedlings are fed twice:

• when the second pair of leaves is formed;
• a week before transplanting into open or closed ground.

To prevent harmful insects, the plant is treated with a fungicide solution once every 2 weeks.

Hardening

14-20 days before transplanting into the ground, the seedlings are hardened by taking them to a cool place with a temperature of +12+15°C . Initially, the duration of the procedure is 1 hour, then it is gradually increased.

Bush formation

Low-growing varieties of pepper do not need to be shaped; this will not affect the yield in any way. Tall plants are another matter: here, if you don’t take care of the crown, good results may not be achieved. Such plants are formed in several steps, which depend on the stage of development.

Plucking the crown bud

The crown bud is the flower bud located where the shoots first branch. As soon as the pepper seedlings reach a height of 20 cm, side shoots begin to grow, between which there will be a crown bud.

If you pinch it, the bush will respond with stronger branching. As a result, more fruit-bearing shoots will be formed, and the overall yield will increase.

Sometimes the crown bud is formed in very young seedlings, in this case there is no need to wait, remove it immediately.

Pruning shoots

You can use different schemes for forming a bush, the simplest is 2-3 shoots. To do this, the bush is inspected, 2-3 shoots are selected, which grow from the place where the crown bud was. The tops of the remaining branches are pinched.

Sometimes you can leave 4 shoots, but the more branches left, the smaller the fruits will eventually be. Therefore, it is important to correctly assess the strength of the bush.

Soon branching will begin on the left shoots, and a new crown bud will form in the middle. The bush is formed again: 2-3 strong shoots are left, the rest are pinched above the bud, leaving a leaf (it will serve as a food source for the pepper located below). In a similar way, the bush is formed almost before the start of the ripening phase.

Trimming barren shoots

The pepper is shaped so that it has useless, sterile shoots. They grow below the branching point and take away the plant’s strength in vain. They must be removed.

They also tear off all the leaves that shade the bush and do not participate in fruiting. You can remove no more than two sheets at a time. Those located above the fruit are left. In addition to excess foliage, yellowed, damaged leaves are torn off: they are also of no use.

Leaves can be cut off before the first ten days of August; after that there is no point in doing so.

Pinching pepper

This final stage of bush formation is carried out in August. Pinch or trim the tops of the skeletal branches, thereby stopping the growth of the pepper. Now all the energy will be directed to the formation of ovaries and the growth of peppers.

The fruits begin to grow rapidly, the walls become denser, and ripening occurs faster. Without this stage, the bush can grow in height until cold weather, but fewer ovaries will form.

Planting peppers in open or closed ground

In order not to damage or destroy the grown seedlings when transplanting into the ground, it is necessary to carry out the manipulation at the right time, while observing all agrotechnical rules and recommendations.

Suitable timing

As a rule, peppers are planted indoors in late April or early May. In turn, the time for transplanting into open ground is determined by the climatic characteristics of a particular region. To do this, the weather must be warm and the likelihood of return frosts must be minimized.

In different regions

Optimal timing for planting activities depending on climatic conditions:

In the middle zone:

• in open ground - late May/early June;
• in a polycarbonate greenhouse - early May;
• in a heated greenhouse - from mid to late April;
• in a film greenhouse (polyethylene greenhouse) - the second half of May.

In the Urals, Siberia, Leningrad region:

• in open ground - the first ten days of June;
• in a polycarbonate greenhouse - mid-May;
• in a heated greenhouse - in early May;
• in a film greenhouse (polyethylene greenhouse) - at the end of May.

On South:

• in open ground - end of April;
• in a polycarbonate greenhouse - mid-April;
• in a heated greenhouse - late March/early April;
• in a film greenhouse (polyethylene greenhouse) - the second ten days of April.

According to the lunar calendar 2022

When planting pepper seedlings, it is recommended to follow the lunar calendar. The following are considered favorable days for planting pepper seedlings in 2022:

• January – 7, 8, 9, 16, 17, 21, 22, 26, 27;
• February – 4, 5, 13, 14, 17, 18, 19, 22, 23, 24;
• March – 3, 4, 17, 18, 22, 23, 30, 31;
• April – 8, 9, 14, 18, 19, 28.

Unfavorable days:

• January – 12, 13, 14, 28;
• February – 10, 11, 12, 27;
• March – 12, 13, 14, 28;
• April – 11, 12, 13, 27.

Important! It is permissible to plant peppers in a greenhouse 10-14 days earlier than in open ground due to the higher temperature and rapid warming of the soil.

Selecting a location

To obtain an abundant and high-quality harvest, it is necessary to grow vegetables in the most comfortable conditions. Therefore, choosing a place to plant pepper seedlings requires a responsible approach.

Important! One of the main requirements for a greenhouse and open ground area is high-quality lighting throughout the day .

It is recommended to give preference to areas located on a southern slope: well-warmed and protected from drafts and strong winds. Pepper develops well on breathable, nutrient-enriched soil, while clay and sandy soil types are absolutely not suitable for this purpose.

Growing pepper seedlings

Before planting, select the fullest seeds, soak them in a pink solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes, wash them and place them in a damp cloth soaked in water. They are kept in it for 24 hours in a warm place, after which two seeds are sown in containers. The containers are placed in a pallet, placed in a plastic bag and placed in a room with a constant air temperature of approximately 25 °C.

After 4-6 days at a temperature of +25 C, the roots began to wake up.

First shoots

Usually after 7-10 days shoots appear. The pallet with containers is immediately transferred to the brightest place in the room and they try to maintain an air temperature of 23-25 ​​° C during the day, about 18 ° C at night. Seedlings are grown on a windowsill for about 60-65 days, planted in a greenhouse after the end of frost (in the middle zone on June 8-10).

Watch the accelerated video “How sweet peppers grow.” 115 days in 3 minutes ↓

Pepper picking

Pepper does not respond well to damage to the root system. Picking seedlings of this crop greatly slows down their development, some even die. Therefore, it is better to immediately prepare individual “housing” for each plant: first, seedling plastic containers measuring 9x9x9 cm, then 12x12x15 cm containers for grown peppers.

First feeding

Mineral fertilizers are used for fertilizing. The seedlings are watered twice a week at the root with a solution of potassium and calcium nitrate, 1 g per 1 liter of water. During the seedling period, it is also advisable to water with a solution of microelements. Do not over-water the seedling mixture in pots, as this will lead to increased growth. However, drying out should also not be allowed, as this will cause growth retardation and premature lignification of the stem. Soil moisture should be at 75-80%.

Pepper seedlings sown in cassettes. 55 days from germination. Ready for planting in open ground.

Seedlings are ready for planting when the plant has formed side shoots with 3-4 leaves, which occurs 8-10 weeks after sowing.

Sweet and hot peppers should not be planted side by side, otherwise all the fruits will be bitter. Pepper is a partial self-pollinator; its pollen is heavy, sticky and airborne over a distance of no more than 1 m. However, cross-pollination is still possible due to insects. The activity of the substance capsaicin, which provides the spicy taste of pepper, is so great that its taste is felt even when diluted 1:2 000 000. It is enough for the pollen of hot peppers from the abdomen and legs of an insect to land on the stigma of a sweet pepper, and a spicy taste will be felt in the fruit of the latter.

Growing and care

Activities related to caring for bell or hot pepper seedlings after planting in the ground include watering followed by loosening, creating protection from frost and scorching sunlight, fertilizing and weeding.

Methods of protection against return frosts

In order to enhance frost resistance, planted plants are treated with solutions of humic fertilizers or microelements. In case of a serious threat, more effective measures are taken:

• smoking the area using sawdust, damp firewood, plant waste, pine needles or peat;
• sprinkling - 2 norms of water are poured under the root of each plant, the procedure is carried out in the daytime;
• creating additional shelter using special material, plastic film, moss, reeds, straw or reusable plastic bottles.

In greenhouses, containers with hot water, potbelly stoves, or electric heaters (if there are electrical networks) are used to warm seedlings.

Watering

Peppers do not need frequent watering . The plant is watered for the first time during the planting process, and then after 5 days. Subsequently, the event is held once every 7 days. Recommended dosage – 1 l/1 bush.

Important! When moistening the soil during the flowering period, it is necessary to use water with a temperature of about 20 ° C.

After each manipulation, the soil near the bushes is loosened, preventing the formation of a crust. In open ground, peppers are mulched, which allows them to retain moisture for as long as possible.

Top dressing

no more than 3 times during the season .

Planting pepper seedlings. Description. Photo

The taste of the fruit is determined by the content of microelements in them, according to which pepper is divided into groups: bitter, semi-hot and sweet, especially popular, known in Russia as Bulgarian, due to the fact that the main supplier of this vegetable in Soviet times was Bulgaria.

Originally from South America, it has firmly taken its position in our climate zones. The minimum temperature for germination is 15-18 degrees, for growth and development 20-25, the average period from germination to fruit ripening is 100-130 days.

Therefore, planting pepper seedlings is a necessary stage in its cultivation, especially in temperate climates and to the north. It is well cultivated in the southern regions of Russia, but in other conditions you can get decent results with some effort. This process is especially easy if you know how to grow tomato seedlings. Planting tomato seedlings is very similar to the agricultural techniques for growing peppers.

First, you need to choose the right varieties, of which there are currently a great many, not all of them even have names, since breeders simply do not have time to do this. You can get acquainted with them by purchasing them at specialized retail outlets; all information is indicated on the back of the package and contains a description of taste qualities, data on the destination, ripeness, shape, color and weight of the fruit, their yield and wall thickness.

If you are going to eat peppers mainly fresh, choose thick-walled varieties with large fruits, but keep in mind that they require more comfortable growing conditions. Well, if your goal is mainly conservation, stop at small-fruited varieties, they will give a guaranteed harvest and will be less demanding to care for.

Remember, when choosing thick-walled, succulent varieties, they require more comfortable growing conditions, usually in greenhouses. When planting peppers, label the containers with seedlings or leave the seed packet nearby, so you will later know which varieties are planted where.

To cover the need for this vegetable in an average family and prepare it for the winter, 18-20 bushes planted in pairs are enough. However, sow seeds for seedlings in larger quantities, assuming that some of them may not germinate, and some may die or get sick during the growing season.

Features of the cultivation of bitter pepper

Growing hot peppers requires following several rules:

• moistening the soil 2 times a week;
• ensuring air temperature: during the day +25+30°C, at night – +13+16°C;
• maintaining humidity in the range of 60-70%;
• decrease in temperature as the seedlings grow: at night to +10°C, during the day from +20 to +27°C.

In order to protect against pests, hot peppers are disinfected step by step:

• after the first shoots appear;
• when two sheets are formed;
• when forming each new leaf.

Growing conditions

To successfully grow peppers, several components are needed:

• high quality seedlings
• good lighting at all stages of growth
• warm and fertile soil
• high humidity without stagnant water
• covering with protective materials

The peculiarity of the culture is that for its normal development it is not necessary to build a large greenhouse. Pepper develops better in low tunnels under the film, where heat and moisture are well retained, but there is no stagnation of water.

In addition, the tunnel is easier to open if the air warms up above 30 °C, because at 35 °C flower buds begin to fall off. Good lighting is also extremely important for peppers, because the slightest shading leads to a decrease in yield.

Soil for pepper seedlings

You can prepare your own soil mixture for seedlings. It is based on leaf soil, for which there is always enough raw material in the garden. Leaves of ornamental shrubs and trees are collected in large black plastic bags and stored near the compost pit. To provide air access, punctures are made in the bag.

The soil matures quickly if the leaves are constantly wet. Before planting, the leaves can be sprayed with a solution of biological products, this speeds up the ripening process. Add a half-liter jar of wood ash, a three-liter bag of peat and half a bucket of garden soil to a bucket of leaf soil.

Garden soil for seedlings is treated with a special infusion in the summer. It is prepared like this: a barrel is filled two-thirds full with finely chopped tops of legumes, lawn grass and nettles, filled with warm water, covered with a lid and kept in the sun for two weeks, shaking regularly.

The sifted garden soil is poured into a large container, filled with infusion from the barrel in a 2:1 ratio and covered with plastic wrap. The soil is shoveled once a week and, if necessary, watered with infusion from the barrel. For the winter, the soil is poured into bags and allowed to freeze well. Before use, place it in a warm room for a week.

The nuances of growing peppers in different regions

early and mid-ripening varieties in open ground . However, due to the likelihood of return frosts, these plantings need shelter.

In the northern regions, growing pepper is possible only in warm beds or in greenhouse conditions . For sowing in Siberia, the Urals and the Far East, varieties are selected that are zoned for these areas.

Important! Since summer in the northern regions is quite short, at the end of July it is recommended to remove small ovaries and flowers, as well as pinch the top of the main shoot; this technique will allow the peppers to ripen before the onset of cold weather.

Growing bell peppers at home

Sweet peppers can be grown at home (on the balcony or on the windowsill), if you create suitable conditions for it. It is important that it receives sunlight for at least a few hours a day; the rest of the time, artificial lighting can also work. The temperature must meet normal requirements.

Peppers are grown at home all year round: they can be planted in February and September.

Traditionally, flower pots with a volume of 3–4 liters are used for this purpose. The soil is bought ready-made, but you can make it yourself: one of the suitable compositions is a mixture of coconut fiber and vermicompost (2:1). Seeds can be sown immediately in pots or first use small cups, and then transfer only the best specimens along with a lump of earth into pots. During transshipment, it is possible to deepen the seedlings almost to the cotyledon leaves.

Pepper in the apartment needs the same as in the garden. Phytolights are used for lighting, watered with warm water, and fed with mineral fertilizers. It is more difficult to maintain the required humidity in pots; this must be monitored daily. There is also a difficulty with temperature: after all, it is necessary to simulate natural conditions, which means trying to create about 15 oC at night, for which, for example, opening a window. In summer it’s easier: by placing the peppers on the balcony, they create quite comfortable conditions.

Peppers in a pot need the same conditions as in the garden.

When growing at home, you have to ration the harvest: for most varieties, no more than five fruits can be left on the plant at a time. Many varieties can grow in pots for several years, but keeping them for more than 2 years is unprofitable; plantings are periodically renewed.

Non-standard methods

In addition to the traditional method, you can cultivate bell peppers as follows:

1. In barrels , the bottom of the container is removed, drainage holes are formed and filled with soil, alternating raw materials for compost with ordinary turf. The lower leaves of the planted bush are torn off and covered with soil (10 cm layer), then covered with film. As the pepper grows, the procedure is repeated. As a result, the barrel is gradually filled with soil to the brim. From this point on, the film is removed, and the crop is cared for in the same way as with traditional cultivation.
2. The Chinese method - the seeds are sown in cassettes and covered with a layer of soil up to 6 cm thick. After the formation of the seventh full-fledged leaf, the tops are pinched, which is why the growth of the bushes slows down, and all the plant’s forces are spent on the formation of the root system.

Important! Despite the later ripening of fruits, the yield when grown using Chinese technology is much higher.

Cultivating ornamental peppers at home

Caring for decorative peppers follows almost the same principle as caring for indoor flowers. A suitable place for the plant is window sills facing west or east: additional lighting will be needed here only in autumn or spring.

The room is periodically ventilated, avoiding the slightest drafts. Optimal temperature: during the day +23+25°С , at night – several degrees lower. The level of air and soil humidity should vary in the range of 60-70% ; at lower levels, the crop is sprayed with water.

Important! In the warm season, containers with pepper are moved to the balcony or placed outside (if possible); when the temperature drops, they are returned to their original place.

Watering is done moderately so that the soil is constantly slightly moist. Every 14 days, peppers are fed with compounds containing nitrogen.

To increase productivity and give the bush a decorative appearance, the main shoot of the plant is pinched immediately after the first flower appears on it, thereby stimulating branching. As they grow, shoots that interfere with their decorative properties are removed, and branches of perennials that will no longer bear fruit are cut off.

During long-term cultivation in winter, the plant is provided with additional lighting, the soil is moderately moistened, loosened, and fertilized from time to time. Fungicides are used to control pests, and preparations containing copper are used to combat diseases.

Features of growing black peppercorns

Due to its excessive heat-loving nature, cultivation of this plant in open ground is impossible even in the southern territories of the country. If the temperature drops below +10°C , the crop dies.

To grow at home, you can use regular spice from the store with a suitable shelf life: up to 1 year from the date of collection. The optimal time for planting is May or June. Black pepper is usually planted in orchid soil.

During the growth process, as the soil dries out, watering is carried out, and during the growing season, mineral fertilizers are applied twice. The plant is replanted 2 times a year, and its length is adjusted by pruning. The first fruits appear only in the 2nd or 3rd year .

Important! Small whitish drops that appear on the inside of a plant leaf are normal and do not indicate the occurrence of any disease.

Plant care

The best soil for peppers is light, structured, and well-drained. This culture is responsive to the pre-planting application of humus or compost at the rate of 1-2 buckets per 1 m2. Before digging the soil in the greenhouse, fertilizers are applied at the rate of 60 g of super-phosphate, 30 g of potassium chloride, 40 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 m2.

How to plant peppers

The beds are cut 1 m wide and the peppers are planted on them in two rows, with a distance of 60-70 cm between the rows. The distance between plants in a row is 30-35 cm for vigorous varieties and hybrids, 20-25 cm for medium-growing ones (5-6 plants per 1 m2).

For planting, dig a hole 10-12 cm deep and pour 1-2 liters of water into it. Pre-watered seedlings in a pot are carefully turned over onto the palm of your hand so that the stem is squeezed between your fingers.

By tapping on the bottom, remove the lump of earth with the root system and plant it in the hole. After planting, the soil is compacted, watered and mulched with peat.

In sunny weather, after planting, it is advisable to shade the plants for 2-3 days to ensure better survival. When the plants have stems, they are tied from below with twine with a loose loop, and the twine is attached to the trellis wire from above.

The first flower in the fork of the stems and all side shoots, except for two or four, are removed to a height of 1 m. The corolla petals from the set fruits must also be removed - this way you can protect the peppers from damage to the ovaries by gray rot.

Twice a week, each stem is wrapped around twine. Once every two weeks, leaves in places where the fruits have already been collected must be removed so that light reaches the flowers and the plants are well ventilated. This will make harvesting easier.

How to water peppers

Peppers are watered 2-3 times a week, not allowing the soil to dry out, otherwise the plants will begin to shed flowers and ovaries. Once every 3-4 weeks, plants are fed with complex mineral and organic fertilizers: rotted manure is diluted in water 1:10, watered at the rate of 3-4 liters per plant.

At temperatures above 28-30 °C and high air and soil humidity, the greenhouse must be ventilated in the morning. For better fruit set, it is recommended to lightly tap the plant stem.

If pests appear on the plants, the peppers are treated with special preparations. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the number of days from processing to harvesting the fruits (the so-called waiting period - this information is indicated on the packaging of the drug).

Disease and pest control

Like all members of the Solanaceae family, peppers can be affected by the following diseases:

1. Gray rot. For treatment use: Skor, Fundazol, Ordan, Acrobat. Processing rules are described in the instructions for each drug.
2. Bacterial wilt. In this case, in the early stages the pepper is treated with fungicides, and in the later stages it is destroyed.
3. Late blight. For partial damage, use Ridomil Gold, Alirin-B, Gamair, for massive damage - Quadris or Bravo.
4. Fusarium. Pepper is sprayed with Topsin-M or Fundazol.
5. Mosaic disease. There are no cures for this disease. In order to prevent it during the growing process, all rules of agricultural technology are strictly adhered to.

Among the pests, bell peppers are attacked by slugs, spider mites and aphids . These insects are controlled using insecticides and acaricides.

Principles for choosing a variety

Bell pepper differs from other plants in its long germination and long growing season. Therefore, the choice of variety must be approached taking into account the climatic conditions of the region. If in the south of Russia it is possible to plant both early and late varieties, then in other regions of the country the situation is different. Late-ripening varieties of pepper will ripen approximately 150 days after germination, therefore, if the summer is short, you may not wait for the harvest.

To understand which variety is better to choose, just look at the table.

Ripening period	Days from germination to harvest
Bell pepper	Hot peppers
Early ripening	110-120	105-110
Mid-season	125-135	115-125
Late ripening	140-150	130-140

Residents of the Black Earth and Non-Black Earth regions, Siberia and the Far East are better off buying seeds of early and mid-ripening varieties. In this case, you can hope for a bountiful harvest of bell pepper. It is better to give preference here to varieties; the temperature is not always suitable for hybrids.

Advice from experienced gardeners

To get a bountiful harvest of quality peppers, take into account several recommendations:

• strictly adhere to sowing dates;
• sow only sprouted seeds;
• use large containers for planting, since the crop does not tolerate excessive density;
• maintain the required depth;
• follow the watering and fertilizing regime, as well as other agrotechnical rules.

The best varieties of sweet bell peppers

Sweet peppers vary in fruit color, ripening time, varieties and hybrids (F1).

The best varieties of bell peppers for growing in open ground and greenhouses are as follows:

1. California miracle pepper - ripening period 129 days from the moment of germination, fruit weight 128 g, red color, cuboid shape, yield up to 5 kg/m2. Rich taste and aroma, resistance to tobacco mosaic.
2. Bogatyr - ripening 131 days, height 70 cm, weight 100 g, cone-shaped, red color, yield 4.3 kg/m2. Excellent taste, versatility in use, good immunity to blossom end rot.
3. Swallow – ripening 130 days, height 60 cm, weight 84 g, color red, cone-shaped. Productivity 4.7 kg/m2, resistance to bacterial wilt.
4. Ox Ear – ripening 130 days, height 70 cm, weight 100 g, red color, cone-shaped, yield 3.2 kg/m2. Ability for long-term storage, transportability, immunity to fusarium.
5. Hercules - ripening 145 days, weight 160 g, red color, cuboid shape, yield 2.6 kg/m2. Versatility of use, resistance to fusarium.
6. Cockatoo F1 – ripening 135 days, height 1.5 m, weight 500 g, elongated cylindrical shape. The color is bright red, the yield is 10 kg/m2, sweet taste, rich aroma.
7. Big Mama - ripening 115 days, height 50 cm, weight 200 g, cylindrical shape, orange color. Productivity 8 kg/m2, resistance to low temperatures, lack of light and major diseases. Ability to bear fruit before the first frost.
8. Golden Miracle - ripening 130 days, weight 185 g, yield 2.6 kg/m2, dark yellow color, resistance to fusarium, cold resistance.
9. Gemini F1 is a mid-early hybrid, weight 250 g, yellow color, yield 5 kg/m2.
10. Orange miracle F1 – ripening 100 days, weight 220 g, high taste and commercial qualities, yield 12 kg/m2, orange color.

The best varieties of bitter (hot) peppers

When choosing a hot pepper variety, take into account the conditions in which it is planned to be cultivated, the desired characteristics of the future harvest and personal taste preferences.

Breeders have developed more than 3 thousand varieties of this crop with varying degrees of pungency of taste, determined by the climate. Peppers grown in cool conditions produce less hot fruit than representatives of the same variety grown at higher temperatures and humidity.

Important! Red-colored capsicums have a sharper taste than green-colored fruits.

Of the wide range of hot pepper varieties, gardeners prefer the following:

1. Hot pepper Double abundance - early ripening, weight 80 g, high yield (up to 40 fruits ripen on one copy). Resistance to high temperatures and viral diseases.
2. Burning bouquet - early ripening, height 50 cm, weight 25 g, bright red color, does not require garter, combination of pungent taste with peppery aroma.
3. Chinese fire - early ripening, maximum bitter taste, height 65 cm, weight 70 g, bright red color, high transportability, resistance to major diseases.
4. Adjika – early ripening, height 1.5 m, weight 90 g, thick, fleshy pulp, bright red color, very pungent taste.
5. Astrakhan 147 – medium ripening, high yield (2.8/m2), height 65 cm, weight 10 g, red color, very pungent taste, long fruiting period.
6. Ram's horn - medium ripening (5 months), height 1.5 m, weight 40 g, red color, medium-sharp taste, fruit length up to 20 cm.
7. Dragon tongue - medium ripening, height 1 m, weight 18 g, yield 3 kg/m2, pods thick-walled, elongated, rich red color.
8. Vizier – late ripening, weight 20 g, slightly pungent taste, yield 3.8 kg/m2, bell-shaped.
9. Tabasco – late ripening, height 150 cm, high yield, medium pungency, resistance to major pepper diseases.
10. Jati Jolokia – growing season 130 days, height 40 cm, red color, high pungency.

Of the new products for 2022, the TOP 5 best varieties include the following:

1. Pepper Kolpak Parsley - mid-ripening (112 days), maximum sharpness (up to 250 thousand units), height 1 m, weight 15 g, bright orange color, easy care.
2. Flame - mid-early ripening, height 50 cm, weight 70 g, fruit length 20 cm, thick skin, spicy aroma, good immunity to verticillium, moderate pungency.
3. Russian size F1 – mid-ripening, height 1 m, dark red color, fruit length 25 cm, resistance to temperature changes and viral diseases, moderate pungency.
4. Bellflower - growing season 150 days, height 2 m, weight 75 g, red color, pronounced citrus aroma, piquant taste.
5. Hungarian yellow - short stature, weight 60 g, red color, medium sharpness, easy to care for, disease resistance.

Important! When choosing a variety, you need to take into account that spicy varieties have shorter ripening periods.

In the southern regions, it is recommended to grow late-ripening varieties with thick skin and a ripening period of 150 days.

In the central and northern territories, it is advisable to cultivate early varieties .

with an average ripening period are most suitable .

Harvest

In almost all varieties of sweet peppers, the fruits at the biological stage of maturity (that is, having acquired a characteristic color) are only slightly tastier than at the technical stage. Therefore, in order to increase the yield, the bulk of them are harvested while still green (or light green), soon after the growth of the fruits stops and they just begin to change color. Often green peppers ripen quite normally during storage, but those collected fully ripe are stored much worse.

Peppers are harvested weekly; the approximate dates of readiness for harvesting are indicated in the characteristics of the variety. Remove the fruits along with the stalk, helping yourself with pruners or a sharp knife. The shelf life of the crop varies greatly depending on the variety. In order to have almost fresh pepper in winter, it is frozen, having first been cleared of seeds and, if desired, cut. For autumn-summer consumption of fresh produce, fruits are stored at a humidity of about 90%, a temperature of about 10 °C in a dark, ventilated room. When the fruits begin to ripen, it is better to lower the temperature to 2...4 oC.

There is a not very simple, but effective way to prolong the supply of fresh, fully ripened fruits to the table. In the fall, bushes with reddened (yellowed) peppers are dug up with roots and hung “upside down” on the balcony if the air temperature has not yet dropped significantly. After 2–3 weeks, nutrients will pass from the stems and leaves to the fruits, resulting in a longer shelf life. Low bushes can even be carefully transplanted into pots and continued to be grown at home.

Loosening and hilling

After planting in a permanent place, bell peppers stop growing for 2 weeks. The culture adapts to new conditions and grows its root system. At this time, you should not loosen so as not to damage weakened plants.

Loosening

Loosening is recommended to be carried out 2 weeks after transplantation. The depth of soil placement should not exceed 5-10 cm to avoid damage to the surface root system of the crop. For soil with a heavy structure, you can loosen it to a greater depth, this will help to ventilate and warm the soil well.

The soil is loosened after each watering and rain. At the same time, wait until it dries a little. Do not allow a dry crust to form.

Weeding

Proper crop care will ensure a good harvest

Plant care includes regularly removing weeds so they don't choke out the peppers. The bushes are hilled until the stem becomes lignified. The procedure helps to activate crop growth, increase oxygen access to the root system, and prevent the development of pathologies. Such actions ensure a good harvest.

Mulching

Mulching helps retain moisture in the soil. Weeds do not develop under mulch. But this can only be done after the soil has warmed up.

Growing sweet peppers in a greenhouse - 5 basic rules

Sweet peppers, despite their capricious nature, have long become a regular in my garden. I grow it in a film greenhouse. Over many years of friendship with the vitamin king, I gradually studied his biological preferences and in practice mastered the main points of care.

For this, the polished dandy consistently bestows a bright and rich harvest.

Less stress – more sweet pepper harvest

When caring for pepper, it is important to protect it from stressful situations. Omissions in plant care are often irreparable. The reason for the shedding of flowers and ovaries, the formation of small and seedless “ottoman” fruits can be:

1. low and high temperatures, their differences, lack of light (especially at the beginning of growth); lack of moisture during flowering and fruit set; overload of the plant with fruits.

For a prosperous existence, pepper requires careful and competent care.

FIVE KEY POINTS OF AGRICULTURAL TECHNOLOGY

1. HOW TO WATER THE PEPPER THE LEAVES WILL TELL YOU

In terms of soil moisture requirements, peppers occupy an intermediate position between cucumbers and tomatoes.

When the temperature rises, it requires more moisture, like cucumbers, and when it drops, the “tomato” level is enough. Pepper suffers from a lack of water as painfully as its stagnation, especially in cold weather. Therefore, the main key to success is keeping the soil moderately moist.

Until the seedlings have taken root, water the peppers generously; when they take root and begin to grow, they begin to water less frequently and in small doses. Bulgarian vegetable growers call this kind of watering thin. And the need for water is determined by the pepper itself.

More precisely, by its leaves: if they have darkened throughout the entire plant, it’s time to go get a watering can. Before flowering, peppers can be watered with rain. During the flowering and fruiting period, water is poured only under the root. The emerging ovary of the pepper first grows in length, then in width, and only at the very end the walls begin to thicken.

If at this very moment you do not provide the pepper with the required amount of moisture, the fruits may turn out thin, dry and small. The abundance of moisture during this period attracts slugs, which can (if measures are not taken) instantly spoil the harvest. A simple remedy for this slippery pest is 0.5 cups of 9% vinegar per 10 liters of water.

Plants and the soil under them are sprayed in the evening, when the slugs go to feed. Important to know: At high humidity, flowers are poorly pollinated.

Peppers respond well to loosening the soil.

The flow of air to the roots accelerates their growth and development, which is why it is so important to prevent the formation of a crust on pepper plantings. The first loosening (to a depth of 5-10 cm) is usually carried out after the plants begin to grow. I’m waiting for the root system to strengthen; before that, I loosen the soil only between the rows.

Subsequent ones - after each watering or rain, when the soil dries out, but has not yet had time to form a hard crust. During the period of mass flowering, I hill up the peppers; in moist and loose soil, the fruits fill before our eyes. Many gardeners mulch the soil under the peppers with straw or mown grass. I don’t do this, I just add humus, otherwise the slugs will become very overwhelming. Many gardeners mulch the soil under the peppers with straw or cut grass.

I don’t do this, I just add humus, otherwise the slugs will become very overwhelming.

Selecting a site and preparing the soil for growing peppers

Land for planting
Since the crop needs light and warmth, but is afraid of drafts and stagnant moisture, the site for it should be sunny, level and covered from the prevailing winds by buildings or other plants.

In the fall, under deep digging (35 cm), organic fertilizers (manure, humus or compost) should be applied at 4-5 kg ​​per 1 sq.m. In the spring you need to dig up the area again or loosen it deeply (15 cm) and apply to each square meter:

• 40 g potassium;
• 40 g phosphorus;
• 25 g nitrogen.

Peppers should also be provided with shelter from return frosts and in case of prolonged rains.

Pepper's predecessors and neighbors

Planting bell peppers should be carried out in accordance with crop rotation and not returned to their original place for 3-4 years, so that pathogenic organisms and pests of this crop do not accumulate in the ground. Since peppers belong to the nightshade family, they should not be placed after tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants and tobacco.

The most suitable predecessors of pepper in open ground are:

• cucumbers;
• cabbage;
• onion and garlic;
• root vegetables (beets, carrots, radishes, etc.);
• beans, beans;
• perennial herbs and green manure.

As the latter, you can plant peas, mustard seeds, rye, lupine, clover, buckwheat, and marigolds. These plants grow a large green mass in a short period of time, which makes it possible to cut it before flowering for subsequent embedding in the ground. This agrotechnical technique allows you to enrich the soil with nitrogen, sugars, and microelements available for subsequent crops, improve its structure, and remove weeds.

If you sow green manure in early spring, you need to plant them in the ground 15-20 days before planting sweet pepper seedlings in open ground.

Also, various green manure plants can improve soil health, for example:

• rye is effective in controlling nematodes;
• flax and calendula will repel the Colorado potato beetle;
• radish and mustard neutralize pathogenic flora;
• phacelia will prevent the spread of late blight and drive away wireworms;
• lupine fights root rot;
• alfalfa is a natural antiseptic.

In addition, marigolds, calendula and dill, planted between the rows of sweet peppers, will repel many ground pests. Despite the fact that pepper is a capricious crop, it coexists well with many plants. These include cabbage, carrots, zucchini and beets.

Growing peppers in open ground is acceptable next to onions, garlic, dill, basil, radishes, thyme, and corn. The bed should be placed on the north side - then it will protect the paprika from the cold wind.