The need to replant strawberries is caused by the peculiarities of their development: aging bushes winter worse and significantly reduce yield. The correct selection of the place and time of year for transplantation plays a significant role in the subsequent development of the crop. This is as important as fertilizing and protecting against diseases and pests.
- 2 What bushes are used for transplantation
2.1 Video: how to choose a bush for replanting
- 3.1 Rooting the mustache
- 4.1 Spring transplantation of strawberries
4.1.1 Video: transplanting strawberries in spring
- 4.2.1 Video: transplanting strawberries in autumn
Is it possible to replant strawberries in the spring to a new place?
A strawberry plantation has to be replanted every 3-4 years to a new location because over these years the strawberry bushes age, take out all the nutrients necessary for growth and development from the soil, grow and bear fruit less well, and the berries become smaller. As a result, the yield of the variety in the old place deteriorates.
Spring transplantation has a number of advantages:
- after the active melting of snow, a lot of moisture has accumulated in the soil, and the sun is not too hot yet, so the soil has not had time to heat up much;
- During the summer season, the strawberry bushes will have time to take root and will bear fruit well next year;
- there is enough space in the garden plot, so you can choose a suitable fertile area for a new strawberry plantation;
- In the spring, a lot of weeds have not yet appeared on the site, so weeding will not take much time.
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Therefore, many gardeners prefer to renew their strawberry plantation in the spring.
How to choose the right time for spring transplantation of strawberries
In the spring, there are several periods during which you can plant strawberries in a new place:
- immediately after the snow melts. At this time, immediately after transplanting strawberry seedlings, they should be covered with polyethylene, or planted in a film greenhouse. Only plants with an open root system should be planted in the beds;
- in the last ten days of April - the first ten days of May. During this period, you need to plant the rosettes that grew on the site last season. Before transplanting the rosettes, you need to make sure that they have successfully overwintered - if they begin to grow, then everything is fine. The rosettes are dug up with a clod of earth, removing last year's foliage - only green foliage should remain on the bushes. The rosettes are inspected - healthy plants have an elastic root system, without visible signs of damage, and a powerful root collar. Transplantation is carried out during the period until the melt water has had time to completely evaporate from the soil, but after planting the seedlings will still have to be watered. After planting, the rosettes are covered with non-woven fabric to hide the plants from sunlight and sudden temperature fluctuations;
- in the last ten days of May. During this period, strawberry bushes grown from removable material are planted. Also during this period, you can transplant strawberry seedlings from greenhouses; most often they are transplanted with a closed root system. Such bushes have healthy foliage, and flower stalks with formed buds may appear on the plants. They are usually removed so that the crop spends all its energy on rooting and growth, and not on the formation of fruits.
Planting strawberries in summer.
The best summer time for planting young bushes in the soil is in the middle of the season. When to plant strawberries in summer? It’s best to do this in the last ten days of July or early August.
The nuances of planting strawberries in summer.
- The climatic characteristics of the area must be taken into account. In cold regions, mid-July is suitable. Strawberries should be transplanted into warm ones later.
- When planting strawberries, it should not be too dry. Prolonged rains or scorching sun are also undesirable.
- Planting of seedlings should be carried out in moderately warm weather on a cloudy day or evening, shortly before sunset.
How to understand in the spring that strawberries need a transplant
By the 3-4 season, the main bushes form too many tendrils, which grow too long, and during the winter they dry out and freeze. As a result, the mother strawberry bushes are depleted, they grow worse in the spring, they will be weaker, flowering will worsen, which will affect fruiting.
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By the appearance of the bushes in the spring, you can immediately determine that they are depleted and require immediate transplantation to a new location.
How to properly replant strawberries in the spring, step-by-step instructions
When transplanting strawberries to a new location, you must first select a suitable site and prepare it approximately 12-14 days before the planned transplant.
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Planting of bushes of this berry crop is carried out according to the following scheme:
- planting holes are dug in the beds, the distance between which should be 0.3-0.4 m;
- if fertilizers were not previously applied to the soil, then a handful of compost and a little complex fertilizer are placed at the bottom of each hole, and the top is covered with soil;
- a plant is placed in the center of the hole, and its roots are distributed along the diameter of the hole;
- then the roots of the plant are covered with soil, leaving the root collar above the surface of the earth;
- the soil is compacted and watered.
Transplant methods
Getting sprouts is quite easy:
- use vegetative layering - mustache,
- Divide adult plants into sections.
Propagation by seeds is quite labor-intensive; the resulting seedlings do not always inherit the varietal characteristics of the mother plants.
Rooting a mustache
The vegetative shoots of strawberries are called tendrils. They take root quite easily, forming new plants appropriate to the variety. One bush can produce up to 15 shoots with rosettes. The procedure is carried out as follows:
- Choose healthy mustaches with rudiments of roots.
- Place them on the ground at a distance of 20–30 cm from the mother bush and press them a little into the ground.
- Or they root the mustache directly into pots with nutritious soil.
- In 2–2.5 months, seedlings will grow and can be transplanted directly with a lump of earth, which will speed up the establishment of the sprouts.
You can root strawberry tendrils directly into pots with nutritious soil.
Dividing the bush
Most often, strawberries that produce little or no tendrils are propagated by dividing the bush. This method is also used after a large winter loss of plants. Adult plants are divided into horns; from one bush, depending on its age, size and yield, up to 10 seedlings can be obtained. Bushes that are too old are not suitable for this method; they produce weak seedlings, and you may not get a harvest at all.
Usually transplantation is carried out on a cloudy day:
- Choose strawberry bushes no older than three years.
- Prepare a place that is well lit and protected from strong winds.
- The soil is dug up a month before transplantation and fertilized with humus (1 kg per 10 sq. m). If the soil is acidic, add lime (from 350 to 500 g per 1 sq. m of medium-heavy soil, depending on the acidity of the soil).
- On the eve of planting, the ridges are shed with water.
- The bushes are dug out of the ground and the roots are washed in a bucket of running water.
The roots of the mother bush must be washed with water.
- Carefully divide the roots into several parts with a knife or hands.
Strawberry roots are cut into pieces with a knife
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- Dig holes up to 30 cm deep and make a mound at the bottom.
- Holding the seedling with one hand, the other straightens the roots in the hole. Then sprinkle the rosette with soil and press it with your hands so that there are no voids left in the hole.
- The distance between plants in a row is at least 30 cm, and between rows - 50–70 cm.
Divided bushes are planted according to a 30 by 50 cm pattern.
- They use single-line, two-line, and carpet, that is, continuous.
- The planted sprouts need to be watered and the soil sprinkled with ash or peat.
How to prepare a bed and hole for spring transplanting strawberries
The beds should be prepared for spring planting of strawberries in the fall. The area is cleared of remnants of vegetation, removing them along with the roots. Then add organic matter (humus or compost) at the rate of 6-7 kg for each square of area and dig with a shovel and embed the fertilizer into the soil.
The soil is also spilled with solutions of fungicides and insecticides in order to destroy pathogenic microorganisms and pests in it.
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If necessary, the soil should be deoxidized in the fall by adding lime or dolomite flour. In the fall, not only organic matter is added to heavy clay soils, but also high-moor peat and coarse river sand, while simultaneously reducing the acidity to neutral.
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In the spring you need to form beds, then dig holes in them slightly larger than the volume of the root system of the seedlings.
Choosing the right time depending on your region
When planting strawberry bushes in spring, you need to take into account the climatic conditions of the growing region. Therefore, the timing of such a procedure in different regions of Russia will differ.
- In the southern regions, return frosts are rare in the spring, so strawberry seedlings can be transplanted from March to the first ten days of April.
- In the Moscow region and the middle zone, the planting date is shifted to the last ten days of April - the first ten days of May.
- In the Leningrad region, this berry crop can be planted throughout May.
- In Siberia and the Urals, seedlings of this crop are planted in the second or third decade of May.
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Further care
In the first week, the transplanted strawberries must be watered daily by sprinkling. In addition to soil moisture, the crop needs moisture in the air for successful adaptation.
If the transplant is carried out in the summer, the bushes are protected from the scorching sun with white lutrasil.
Further plant care is standard: loosening the soil between the rows, weeding. In the year of transplantation, strawberries are not allowed to bloom by removing the buds.
It is better to insulate strawberries transplanted in the fall for the winter by covering the bushes with sawdust or straw cuttings.
When to replant strawberries in the spring of 2022 according to the lunar calendar
In order for strawberries to take root well when planted in the spring, and in the future to be distinguished by regular good fruiting, when carrying out this procedure, you need to adhere to the lunar calendar.
Favorable days
Favorable days for carrying out this procedure in 2022 will be the following:
• in March – from the 14th to the 27th;
• in April – from 13 to 26.
Unfavorable days
There are days when this berry crop should not be planted. According to the lunar calendar, in 2022 such work cannot be carried out at the following times:
- in March - from 1 to 13, as well as from 28 to 31;
- in April - from 1 to 12 and from 27 to 30.
Caring for strawberries after transplanting in the spring
After transplanting the plants, in the first 13-15 days the soil in the strawberry beds should be constantly moist. In this case, watering is carried out strictly at the root so that drops of moisture do not fall on the foliage.
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After each watering or rain, you need to carefully loosen the soil in the root zone, while simultaneously removing all emerging weeds.
After loosening the soil in the root zone, cover it with a layer of mulch, which will prevent water from evaporating quickly.
We must remember! If all the necessary fertilizers were added to the soil during planting, then there is no need to fertilize the strawberries this season.
Propagating strawberries by dividing the bush
This method can be used to propagate all varieties of strawberries, including those that do not form mustaches. This is perhaps the main advantage of this method. The point is that the resulting planting material will no longer produce full yields, because it was formed from a rather depleted old bush when it was divided. Therefore, this method should be used in extreme circumstances, for example, if during the winter part of the strawberry plantings froze, or if the strawberry variety you are interested in really does not form a mustache.
So, let’s figure out how to properly propagate strawberries by dividing the bush.
First, you need to dig up the overgrown bush that you plan to divide, along with a large lump of earth. Do this as carefully as possible so as not to damage the roots of the plant. To do this, first dig around the bush in a circle.
Then we move the dug up bush into a basin or other similar container, leaving only young green leaves and stems on the plant, cutting off the rest. We clear the roots from the ground. Fill the basin with water and rinse the roots from any remaining soil. Now that the roots are freed from the ground, the bush will divide by itself; you just need to separate the horns from one another, using just your hands. Those horns that did not separate themselves during this procedure are cut off with a knife. Each separated horn must have an apical bud and its own roots.
On each resulting daughter plant, we leave only 2-3 central leaves on the two youngest stems (and even those are cut in half so that the plant loses as little liquid as possible during evaporation), and cut off the rest. We pick off the flowers and also take an “inventory” of the roots, leaving the freshest and strongest ones.
To make the adaptation process faster, the roots of new plants can be treated with growth stimulants (such as “Kornevina”, “Epina”, “Zircona”), or disinfected with Phytosoprin. Or you can adopt the proven “old-fashioned” method: before planting, dip the roots of the bushes in a mash made from clay and manure (we dilute 3 parts clay and 1 part manure with water to form liquid sour cream).
In the bed prepared for planting (pre-fertilized), we make depressions corresponding to the size of the roots of the new bushes, spill them with water, place the seedlings and bury them. As in the case of planting mustaches, we control the position of the heart of the bush relative to the surface of the earth.
Here it is also important to ensure that the roots are completely straightened and in a vertical position, there should be no bends anywhere. After planting, the bed should be covered with a layer of mulch.
Common mistakes
Among the common mistakes that gardeners can make when planting this berry crop in the spring are the following:
- dense plantings. If strawberry bushes are planted too often, they will shade each other and take nutrition from the soil, and their roots will become intertwined. As a result, the growth of the bushes will slow down;
- incorrectly selected neighbors in the area. If the rules of crop rotation are not followed, other crops can be planted next to this berry crop, which extract the same nutrients from the soil. As a result, the strawberries will lack nutrition and their growth and fruit ripening will slow down;
- non-compliance with watering rules. It is important to water strawberry bushes only at the root so that drops of moisture do not fall on the leaf blades. Water for irrigation should be settled and warm.
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Preparing soil for strawberries.
The soil must be prepared in advance. A month before the planned transplantation of strawberries, the soil should be cleared of weeds, fertilized and dug up.
It is necessary to put both organic and mineral fertilizers per square meter: potassium sulfate (20 g) and superphosphate (60 g). Instead, you can use a special combination mixture to feed garden strawberries.
The soil must rest before planting this crop. It is advisable to cover it with agrofibre so that the moisture does not evaporate.
When to start transplanting strawberries? In about a few weeks the soil will be ready for planting. The land on which the transplant is planned must also be moistened. If the weather is dry, the beds should be watered with plenty of warm water.
that were previously used for growing are suitable for strawberries
- radishes,
- carrots,
- beets,
- dill,
- Luke,
- garlic,
- celery,
- salad,
- parsley
that were used for growing are not suitable for strawberries
- eggplant,
- cucumbers,
- potatoes,
- cabbage
These crops suck most of the nutrients from the soil and are susceptible to diseases that can spread to the berries.