How to properly transplant currants to a new place


Reasons for transplanting currants

Gardeners have to replant currant fruit bushes for various reasons.

Usually, currants are transplanted to another place in the following cases:

  • There are no longer enough nutrients at the place of growth;
  • There are few new, young shoots;
  • There is not enough space for the bush, it has grown too much;
  • The bush found itself in the shade of a fruit tree;
  • The gardener decided to restructure the site;
  • The shrub needs to be propagated.

But regardless of the reasons, pruning and rejuvenation are beneficial for currants. This gives new strength for development and growth. New shoots appear that are not infected with diseases. In addition, when replanting the bush is thinned out, more light gets into the center of the bush. This means the berries grow larger and sweeter. About pruning currants, see the material - How to trim currants.

Preparing transplanted currants for winter

Regardless of when currants are transplanted: in autumn, summer or spring, in the first year after this they must be prepared for the cold. Immediately before the air temperature begins to drop to sub-zero values, 3-4 buckets of humus or compost are poured under the bush.

Loose organic material (such as straw) is not used. It is loved by rodents, which can cause harm. In cold climates (where frosts of -25 °C or more are possible), the bushes are additionally covered with burlap or wrapped with spunbond.

How currants tolerate transplantation

Currants can grow in one place for about 10-15 years. How currants tolerate moving depends on its age. Bushes under 5 years old can easily tolerate replanting. Older ones do not take root well.

Although experienced gardeners believe that currants are one of the most tenacious plants. And with proper care, even the oldest bushes can easily take root.

Carrying out pruning

Preparation of the plant begins in about a month. Rid it of all old, damaged stems, remove branches that are of secondary importance and do not participate in fruiting. This helps rejuvenate the bush.

Replanting will cause a decrease in the area of ​​the root system, and therefore the upper part will be less provided with nutrients.

The base of the bush is equipped with strong stems. Fruiting begins at 35 cm, this segment is marked by weak branching, short shoots are covered with flower buds. They are also present at the top, but they are weak, forming small berries. The main branches are cut by a third.

The total height is characterized by a mark of 47 cm. How to replant currants so as not to deprive them of their viability? First of all, keep in mind that simultaneous planting and pruning are not compatible actions. Such an error will serve as additional stress for the berry, reducing its adaptation and immune strength.

Landing process

To free the bush, we dig a circular groove to a depth of about 32 cm near the trunk, with a radius of 40 cm. Holding the base, pull it, and chop off the retaining ends with a shovel. If you need transportation, tie the branches with rope. Before landing you need:

  1. Inspect the roots; if there are dried, diseased branches, they must be removed. Soak the rhizomes for 15 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate or in a growth-stimulating preparation.
  2. Place the plant in the center of the prepared hole and distribute the roots in a loose position, sprinkled with soil. Allow the root collar to reach the surface by 5 cm.
  3. When filling the soil, make sure there are no voids, otherwise rot will develop.
  4. After compacting the soil near the trunk, form a watering ditch. The initial watering consists of two buckets of water - this is warm, settled liquid. Pour it slowly so that complete absorption occurs.

At the last stage, the tree trunk area is mulched using peat, humus, and wood ash. Please note that the distance between individual copies is 1.5 meters.

Timing for transplanting currants

The optimal time for moving currants to a new place is the spring or autumn months; in special cases, it is possible to carry out the procedure in the summer. Each period has its pros and cons. But to a greater extent, the time for transplanting currants to another place depends on the climatic conditions in the region.

Pros and cons of spring transplanting currants to a new place

You can move currants in the spring only after the snow has melted and the soil has warmed up. While the bush is in a state of hibernation, the buds are not swollen, the movement will be painless for the plant.

There is little time to transplant in the spring, so you need to work quickly. If it was not possible to carry out the procedure on time, the bushes began to bloom, then it is better to postpone the procedure until autumn or next year.

Many gardeners prefer to transplant currants in the spring for the following reasons:

  • the plant has more time to take root and adapt during the warm summer;
  • comfortable working conditions;
  • damaged branches and shoots, plants as a whole are immediately visible;
  • in some cases you can already count on a harvest.

However, due to weather conditions, you may not have time to plant in a new place; the buds may swell earlier than expected. In addition, in the spring a double load falls on the plant, since it has to adapt and increase green mass and bear fruit.

Spring planting is done in late March-early April, depending on the region.

Advantages and disadvantages of transplanting in the fall

The most common time to plant currants is autumn. This is the optimal time because the growing season is over, the leaves have been shed and the plant is resting. There is no extra load on it. The procedure must be carried out a month before the onset of frost. During this period, the plant will have time to get stronger.

In autumn, they are usually planted in September-October; in the southern regions this can be done in late October-early November.

Is it possible to replant bushes in summer?

In rare cases, it is necessary to replant in the summer, although this is the most inopportune time. The plant is in an active growth phase and bears fruit. Therefore, adaptation is very painful.

In this case, it is better to wait for the end of fruiting, and do not forget to water the bushes abundantly.

Below is a video about how, without focusing too much on the rules, you can transplant currants to another place.

When is it recommended to replant currants?

A plant may need to change its place of residence for several reasons. An adult currant bush is transplanted in the following cases:

  • an overgrown bush interferes with neighboring plants, or nearby trees shade the currants;

    the bush has been growing in this place for quite a long time, the soil is clearly depleted and toxic substances have accumulated in the earth as a result of the life activity of this crop;

  • there is a need to renew and rejuvenate the bush, for example, if the bush is very old and a revision of the overgrown root system is required in order to remove dead and diseased parts, a healthy and young part is left for further cultivation;
  • it is necessary to replant the shoots formed at the bush;
  • the territory is being redeveloped and another place is planned for the currants or it is necessary to transport the plant to another site;
  • groundwater rose and the soil became too damp, which is detrimental to currants.

Transplanting an adult fruiting bush is carried out only in case of emergency, since this procedure is a strong stress for the plant.

Replanting is a strong stress for the plant, sometimes the bush dies

Currants have difficulty surviving being moved and are usually sick for a long time. Deaths are common. Therefore, we must try to take into account the botanical species characteristics and the annual vegetation cycle of the plant.

Currants are replanted immediately after the snow melts in early spring or after the end of leaf fall in late autumn. The main condition is the dormant state of the bush, when the plant has not yet begun to grow and even the buds have not yet appeared, or at the end of the growing season, when the bush has already dropped all its leaves and is preparing for winter.

The time of transplantation is determined by the climatic characteristics of the regions.

Summer transplantation is also allowed, but as a last resort.

Rules for replanting young and old currants

In order for the plant to quickly take root in a new place, the procedure must be carried out according to certain rules.

Transplanting mature currants

It is better to replant adult currants either as a whole bush with a lump of earth or by cuttings. In the case of transplanting old currants, they are usually propagated or rejuvenated. The adult bush has already grown greatly, so it needs to be pruned, dry and damaged branches that are growing incorrectly must be removed. It is also worth trimming the roots.

After planting, the plant needs to be watered as much as possible.

Young currant

Young currant bushes can more easily tolerate moving to a new location. The bush is dug up along with a lump of earth, the top shoots are removed: half the young ones, the old ones to the base. If necessary, you can move the currants by dividing the bush.

The most important thing is not to damage the roots when digging, so that the plant can take root in its new location more easily and quickly.

Selecting a location

You will get rid of unnecessary hassle and enjoy a high-quality and abundant harvest by choosing the optimal area. It should be accessible to sunlight, be even, preferably on the south or south-west side, where sufficient heating occurs, the soil does not accumulate excess moisture and there is air ventilation. Unsuitable:

  1. Areas overgrown with weeds, with intertwined roots of perennials.
  2. Lowlands with accumulation of water, this factor will provoke the development of fungus and rot.
  3. Hills exposed to winds, where the evaporation of liquid from the surface is accelerated.

Areas after the growth of potatoes, beets, corn, and buckwheat are relevant.

Features of transplantation of different types

Types of currants differ not only in the color of the berries, but also in the structure of the bush and root system. Therefore, it is necessary to replant red, black and white currants taking into account all the features.

Black currant

When transplanting black currants, the following points are important:

  • its root system is superficial, so less damage occurs when digging;
  • is more easily saturated with useful substances;
  • After planting, abundant watering is required.

Red Ribes

Red currants are less demanding and tolerate transplantation more easily. But you need to plant it in a sunnier place, where the light reaches at least 8 hours a day.

The root system goes deeper than that of the black one, so when digging you need to keep an eye on the roots. It is better to change the planting site in the fall, the plant quickly takes root and produces a harvest the next year.

Transplanting white currants

White currants are very similar to red currants when transplanted. She also easily copes with moving to a new place.

To ensure the roots take root better, provide it with good watering. And before planting, dip the roots in a nutrient mixture of mullein and clay. This will give additional stimulation to the roots and disinfect them.

What is golden currant

Possibility of landing in summer

Work is not advisable during the summer season. The culture has no chance to take root in a new point, especially in July. She devotes all her strength to the development of greenery and the formation of berries.

In a situation where this is vitally important, you are selling land or the bush is infected, it is dug up, keeping a voluminous lump of soil on the roots. This measure will prevent their defeat. Next, the sample should be watered abundantly and humus should be added by mulching.

August allows planting by cuttings. The shrub is surrounded by young growth; select strong shoots, at least 16 cm tall, and plant them at the planned points.

Rules and stages of transplantation

Transplanting currants to another place occurs in several stages. If you do everything consistently, the plant will tolerate the operation well and will delight you with the harvest.

How to dig up currants for replanting

The soil must be thoroughly watered and the branches of the bush must be trimmed. Then the place is dug in, a tunnel is made, the bush is slightly tilted and the roots are pulled out. Then it is tilted in the other direction and the roots are pulled out from the opposite side. It is advisable to extract the roots with a clod of earth.

If you can’t remove the bush on the first try, dig again to the full bayonet of the shovel.

What place does currants like?

For currants in the garden, choose a well-lit area, in light partial shade, protected from wind and drafts. It should not be low or too high. Groundwater must be at least 2 meters deep.

Plant currants at a distance of 2-3 meters from other plantings, trees and bushes. Firstly, they will not shade the bush, and secondly, the roots will not interfere with each other.

Soil and hole for planting currants

Currants like to grow in sandy or loamy soil. The soil must be well fertilized. It is advisable to add organic matter and mineral fertilizers. Before planting, reduce acidity by adding lime or wood ash. Suitable fertilizers include humus, mullein, wood ash, and potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

There is no need to dig a hole too deep; the bush should not be buried. 30 centimeters will be enough. The neck should remain above the surface. See how to determine the root collar of a bush.

But it’s better to make it 2-3 times larger in width.

The roots grow horizontally, so the soil needs to be corrected throughout the entire area where the berry bushes grow. To keep the soil loose and well breathable, it can be diluted with peat, sand and compost.

Preparing a bush for planting in another place

When preparing a bush for planting, the following manipulations are carried out:

  • cut off all old and diseased branches;
  • young shoots are cut to half;
  • if you have to transport the bush, the roots are wrapped in damp cloth and placed in a bag;
  • the roots are treated with a weak solution of magnesium permanganate.

Trimming before the procedure

Before planting, it is important to inspect the bush for diseased and infected branches; if there are any, remove them.

In adult bushes, it is advisable to remove as many branches as possible to make it easier for the plant to take root in a new place and develop the root system.

Dividing a currant bush for replanting

During transplantation, you can propagate currants. To do this, the dug bush is divided into equal parts. Each should have a main stem-shoot and the same number of roots.

It is advisable to divide young bushes; old ones may not adapt and die.

Preparing planting holes

Preparing a site for transplanting currants

In amateur gardening literature, the recommended size of a planting hole is 40 × 40 × 40 cm. Agronomists recommend a hole size of 60 × 60 cm, a depth of 50 - 60 cm. But for an adult bush and a well-developed root system, this size may be small. The roots of spreading, vigorous varieties (Belorusskaya Sladkaya, Gollandskaya Krasnaya, Darnitsa, Versailskaya Belaya, etc.) will be cramped in a small-capacity pit. It is better to dig wider: a bush with straightened roots will take root faster.

The root system of an adult golden currant bush is 1.5 m in diameter. Therefore, trenches 60 cm wide, up to 80 cm deep and 1.5 m long are prepared for it.

When planning a low box bed, you will need boards (or slate, brick) for the side. And additional land - 2-3 buckets. Dig a hole 60 × 60 cm and 40 cm deep (based on the height of the side 40 cm). A fence is installed, and then the bush is placed in the planting hole.

Wild currants grow in wetlands, along the edges of swamps, and in damp meadows. Severely swampy soils are not suitable for cultivated species. There will be no berries on saline soils or sand. If you plan to replant the bush, completely change the soil, and in some cases install drainage. Sometimes an adult bush is placed in plastic containers: the larger the container, the longer the bush will live.

It seems that there might be a difficulty: I dug it up, lowered the roots of the currant bush into the hole, and buried it. This is the mistake all novice gardeners make: they forget that the most fertile layer is the top one (although it seems that the herbs have already taken away the most “delicious”).

Adding fertilizer to the planting hole

The hole is shallow - when digging, you should throw the upper third to the side and select the roots of the weeds. Add fertilizer to the soil and place it at the bottom of the hole. The lower, depleted layer is only suitable for filling from above. But if we add mineral fertilizers to it, we will get fertilizing extended over time. Rainwater will gradually dissolve nutrients and carry them deeper into the roots.

Planting currants

There are several ways to plant currants. This can be done not only with a clod of earth, but also with cuttings. This way, the varietal characteristics of any type of currant are preserved. More information about planting can be found in the article - How to plant currants.

Rules for planting currants in a new place

There are several rules for planting in a new place:

  • The ground and pit must be prepared in advance. If planting in the spring, then in a couple of weeks, or better in the fall. And if in the fall, then in two weeks.
  • The hole size is 0.7 m wide and 0.4 m deep. But in each individual case you need to focus on the plant itself.
  • the soil for planting should be as fertile as possible. Wood ash, potash and phosphorus fertilizers, compost, mullein, humus and peat are added.
  • Before planting, pour a lot of water into the hole so that everything turns into a viscous slurry.
  • After planting, the area is watered and mulched again.

Transplanting currants to another place with a bush

If you replant currants as a whole bush, then you must remove ⅔ of the shoots, and generally cut out the old ones to the very base. To prevent the plant from experiencing severe stress from the procedure, it is planted together with a lump of earth from the previous place of growth.

It is important to check the roots for damage and rotten parts. All diseased roots must be removed, and the cut areas should be treated with a solution of potassium permanganate.

You can also dip the roots of the plant in a special solution with wood ash before planting. It stimulates growth and disinfects the root system.

Transplanting currants with cuttings

The bush can also be propagated by cuttings. Young one-year-old and adult shoots are suitable. Cuttings are prepared in the fall, cut, wrapped in a damp cloth and put in a cool place.

They are usually stored in the refrigerator until spring. In order for the seedlings to grow faster on the spot, they are germinated from the end of February in pots with sand or sawdust. When the weather becomes stable, they are transplanted to a new place in the garden. More details are written in the article about currant cuttings.

Further care

During the first weeks, you must carefully ensure that the soil around the bush is always moist. Regular watering of the seedling is the basis of care after transplantation. When watering, at least 20 liters of water should be used for a young plant, and at least 40 liters of water for an adult plant. If planting was done in the fall, one watering per week will be sufficient. When planting in summer, watering should be more frequent. For the first two weeks, you can maintain a swamp around the bushes.

When planting in the fall, shrubs should be hilled up so that they can better withstand the cold. When replanting in spring, on the contrary, the ground is left flat.

The very next season it will be necessary to carry out sanitary pruning to remove broken and dried shoots, which only take away the strength of the bush.

If the seedling was fertilized when planting, there is no need to add additional nutrients. If you do this anyway, the plant may get root burns.

The bush is mulched. If you pay attention to the ground in nature, it is covered with plants everywhere. Simply covering the soil around the currant with pulled weeds or straw can help it retain moisture at the roots longer. In addition, mulch will prevent the soil from overheating in the sun, which is important when planting in spring or summer. Before winter, the mulching procedure will help the plant survive frost more easily, since the roots will not be overcooled.

Another advantage is that mulch reduces the time required to care for currants, because it prevents weeds from germinating. Therefore, there is no need to regularly weed the area.

Care after landing at a new place

After planting, the rate of plant survival is influenced by the quality of care. Watering, weeding and adding nutrients help currants develop.

Maintenance also includes constant inspection for diseases and pests. If health hazards are detected, action must be taken immediately. During this period, the plant requires more strength to recover, so the bush will not be able to resist to the required extent. Look at how to treat currants against diseases and pests.

Do I need to water after transplanting?

It is necessary to constantly monitor soil moisture and prevent drying out.

The main problems with rooting are caused by a lack of moisture or its excess. The quality and frequency of watering depends on the soil. If it is clayey and heavy, water slowly and little by little; if it is light or sandy, water more often and more abundantly.

In the tree trunk circle, mulching with pine needles, peat or non-woven material is mandatory.

When to feed currants after transplanting into the ground

As for fertilizing, there is no need to apply fertilizers for the first couple of years. All the necessary nutrients have already been added during planting. Excess fertilizer also negatively affects the development of currants.

Reasons for changing location

Sometimes such actions are vital and do not require delay, for example, a gardener changes his plot and wants to preserve his favorite berry. In addition, drastic measures will be required in the event of:

  • autumn planting of samples of the variety you liked;
  • desire to rejuvenate the bush;
  • rescue from illness or shadow location;
  • the need to thin out overgrown specimens;
  • soil depletion to increase crop yields.

For normal adaptation, the culture is prepared and the process itself is carried out at the appropriate time and season.

How to transplant currants in autumn and spring - a detailed description of the process

The first step is to prepare the place where the new “seedling” will be placed. The area is dug up (to destroy pests and fungal spores located in the top layer of soil). Next, you need to pay special attention to useful minerals and organic matter so that the bush not only takes root well, but also has an intensive growth rate in the first months. The process is very similar to fertilizing grapevines.

Attention should be paid to “long-lasting” products. The first thing to be introduced, of course, is humus - it lasts for almost 2 years, and begins to decompose 3-4 months after application. Next, we pay attention to wood ash and superphosphate. They are integral elements for the high-quality growth of the bush. Currants require them in large quantities, so for each new bush you need to add at least 150 grams, then sprinkle with soil so that the roots do not come into direct contact with the fertilizer and continue planting as usual.

The distance between newly formed plants should be at least 150 centimeters, especially if they are tall. Even with 100 centimeters between the rows, they darken each other, and development will no longer be complete. Moreover, diseases from one bush can “spread” to others, so you need to maintain a safe distance and prevent their transfer by watering or treating with garden tools. Thickened bushes get sick too often.

The planting depth should be at least 40 centimeters, despite the fact that the bushes are relatively short in height and can grow in much smaller holes. This is done so that there are as many lateral roots as possible. They are the main source from which currants will feed throughout the entire growth period. The pits can be even 60-70 centimeters long if these are tall remontant varieties or specific hybrids of European selection. But these are rare cases and for most, holes of 30-40 cm are suitable.

We take the dug up seedling and place it in a pre-fertilized hole; it is advisable to replace the heavy and viscous soil with an organic mixture of compost, humus, and fertile black soil. For planting, it is better to use one-year-old seedlings, since two- and three-year-old seedlings will be very difficult to accept, and their root system is not adapted to quickly provide a large crown. If the stem has many branches and is more than 45 centimeters in height, it must be cut to this size after planting so that there is enough moisture and fertilizer to root it. After this, pour plenty of water, even if there is already enough moisture.

Caring for seedlings during the first time after planting

Immediately after planting, you need to dig a groove around the perimeter of the tree trunk circle and pour water into it to moisten the soil. After water has been absorbed, the groove must be filled with peat or turf soil, but do not use fresh manure and mineral fertilizers, otherwise the roots will get burned.

In the first time after planting, you need to intensively care for the plant: loosen the soil to a depth of 10 cm 2–3 times a week, weed the tree trunk, water it abundantly and feed it. When watering and fertilizing, it is important to observe the timing, frequency and quantity of these activities.

Watering and fertilizing currants

Currant is a moisture-loving shrub, so at least 3 waterings are required per season:

  • the first - in early June, during the formation of ovaries;
  • the second - in the last ten days of June - the first ten days of July, when the berries begin to ripen;
  • the third - at the end of August - beginning of September, after the end of fruiting.

In the absence of autumn rains at the end of October, additional watering for the winter is necessary.

When watering, the soil should be moistened to a depth of 35–40 cm so that the entire root system has access to moisture. Water consumption for irrigation should be at least 20–30 liters per 1 square meter. m. Another condition is to water with warm water in the evening.


When watering, the soil should be moistened to a depth of 40 cm

In the summer months, it is necessary to add organic fertilizers to the soil, for example, 40 g of urea for each plant, or spray the leaves with foliar fertilizer.

Foliar feeding can be prepared at home: dilute 3 g of boric acid, 5 g of potassium permanganate and 40 g of copper sulfate in water separately, and then add the resulting solutions to a bucket of water.

Compatibility of currants with other plants

Onions are a wonderful neighbor for currants. If you plant onions next to currants in late autumn, an important task will be completed - spring protection of the buds from bud mites. The proximity to honeysuckle and apple trees is considered good for currants.

The situation is completely different with planting black currants next to red currants. If these 2 species are planted side by side, the yield of each will decrease sharply. This phenomenon does not apply to golden currants, which perfectly coexist with chokeberries.

Compatibility table of black currant with other plants

NameGood neighborhoodBad neighborhood
Black currantApple tree, golden currant, honeysuckle, tomatoes, potatoes, onions, anise, parsley, tarragon, coriander, basil, garlicPlum, sweet cherry, cherry, gooseberry, raspberry, red currant, buckthorn, bird cherry, sea buckthorn

The same consequences are observed when adjacent to raspberries, which need a spacious area. Due to the rapidly growing root system of raspberries, which oppresses other plants, currant bushes begin to experience discomfort, lack of moisture and lose vitality, which negatively affects its productivity. For the same reason, cherries, plums and sweet cherries are another undesirable neighbors for currants.

Planting bushes next to buckthorn has an unfavorable effect, from which currants can become infected with goblet rust. The proximity to bird cherry, which attracts the attention of the glassberry - a pest of all fruit and berry crops, and to the gooseberry - due to the moth, has dangerous consequences for currants.

To prevent attacks by parasitic insects, it is recommended to plant spicy plants near the bush that will repel pests with their pungent odor - anise, parsley, tarragon, coriander, basil, garlic.

Black currants, for their part, benefit crops such as tomatoes and potatoes, repelling their pests with phytoncides.

Preparatory work

Preparations for currant transplantation begin in advance, several months before the procedure. Carefully choose a place for growing, dig a planting hole, and cultivate the bush.

Place for currants

The choice of a new place for growing a crop is approached responsibly: currants need to create favorable conditions for growth and fruiting for a long period. To transplant shrubs, choose flat, well-lit places, protected on the north side from drafts and strong winds.

Areas not suitable for currant cultivation:

  • lowlands where spring meltwater and cold morning air stagnate;
  • windy hills from which snow is swept away in winter;
  • swampy, saline areas;
  • places with groundwater levels less than 1.5 m.

The berry bush develops well on cultivated loams or sandy loams with a loose and permeable structure. Currants prefer neutral or slightly acidic soils with a pH of 5.5-6.5.

It is recommended to replant currants in areas where potatoes, legumes, and buckwheat were grown. These crops loosen the soil well and saturate the soil with nitrogen. If the transplant is scheduled for autumn, green manure grasses are planted in this place in the spring.

When choosing a site for transplanting currants, take into account what plants will grow nearby. Favorable neighbors for shrubs:

  • berry crops - honeysuckle, chokeberry, joshta, barberry;
  • vegetables - garlic and onions, dill, parsley, spinach;
  • spicy herbs and annuals that release phytoncides that repel pests - calendula, marigolds, nasturtium.

Berryberries cannot be grown in places where old currant bushes have been uprooted, next to gooseberries. Related crops have common pests and infect the soil with pathogenic microorganisms.

Tall trees, sea buckthorn and raspberries are unsuitable neighbors for currants. They shade the crop; their branched root system inhibits the growth of the bush.

Planting hole

The area for transplanting currants is pre-treated. Soil contaminated with perennial harmful weeds (thistle, wheatgrass) is sprayed with herbicides. The structure of heavy soils is improved by adding low-lying peat and sand; dolomite flour is added to acidic soils. The area is dug up to a depth of 30 cm with the addition of 8-10 kg of humus per m² of area.

When marking a place for a planting hole, take into account that currants need free air circulation. The minimum distance between bushes should be 1.2-1.5 m. Retreat from fences, fences and outbuildings by 1-1.3 m.

Planting holes are dug in advance, 1-2 months before transplantation. Fertilizers must have time to dissolve and evenly saturate the soil so as not to cause burns to the roots.

Rules for preparing a hole for transplantation:

  • remove the top fertile layer of soil, which is used to prepare a nutritious soil mixture;
  • dig a hole 50-70 cm deep and wide, depending on the size of the currant root system;
  • fertile soil is combined with a bucket of compost or humus, 100-150 g of superphosphate, 500-700 g of ash are added, the mixture is thoroughly mixed;
  • Fill the hole 2/3 with the prepared soil mixture, pour out a bucket of water for better soil subsidence.

Red currants prefer potassium, and black currants prefer phosphorus; fertilizer application rates are adjusted depending on the type of plant being transplanted.

Bush

During the season, currants are carefully looked after: regularly watered and fed, and, if necessary, treated against diseases and pests.

2-3 weeks before transplanting, the bushes are pruned. Branches older than five years, diseased and weak shoots are cut out at the base, and shoots are removed without forming stumps. Healthy young shoots are shortened by 1/3-1/2 the length. The height of the branches of a shrub ready for replanting should be 40-50 cm .

A currant bush intended for transfer to another place is watered abundantly for 2-3 days. The moist soil around the berry garden is compacted to create a dense earthen ball.

It is impossible to prune the currant bush immediately before transplanting. The plant has a double burden: rooting and healing wounds and damage. The bush may not withstand severe stress and will die.

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