Columnar cherry: description of varieties, rules of planting and care, pruning, propagation

Planting and care

Despite its unpretentiousness, planting, as well as subsequent care of columnar cherries, should be carried out correctly, which will allow you to obtain a high yield of high-quality berries.

Landing Features

Before purchasing columnar cherry seedlings, you should make sure that the apical bud is intact.
Seedlings need to be planted in areas protected from cold winds. The place should be located on the south side, well lit and without shading.
The soil for planting columnar cherries must be loose and fertile. Close proximity to groundwater and planting in lowlands are unacceptable.
The planting hole must have dimensions that correspond to the root system of the seedling.
The bottom of the hole should be refined with a small layer of a mixture of chernozem and humus.

Immediately after planting, the columnar cherry grows quite slowly for the first two to three years, and special attention is required to the apical bud, which should be properly and promptly prepared for the onset of winter frosts. Freezing of the top point will make it impossible for the plant to bear fruit further.

In addition, the necessary care measures for any stone fruit should be carried out, which include periodically loosening the soil, watering and following the scheme for using protective and preventive measures against diseases and pests.

Loosening the soil and removing weeds should be carried out starting in spring and throughout the entire active growing season.

Watering and fertilizing

The plant is characterized by moisture-loving properties, but does not tolerate too much waterlogging and stagnation of water. On especially hot days, as well as at the stage of fruit formation, the volume of irrigation should be increased.

The best option is to combine watering with fertilization.

In the autumn, the soil should be enriched with phosphorus fertilizers in the amount of 150 g and potassium fertilizers in the amount of 60 g. Nitrogen fertilizers in the form of ammonium nitrate or urea should be applied to the plant in early spring

During the growing season, it is important to carry out two feedings. At the flowering stage and two weeks after this point, you need to add diluted mullein with a small amount of wood ash under the plant.

Under each cherry you should add half a bucket of infused fertilizer and then immediately water the plant abundantly.

The last irrigation is carried out in the first ten days of October, immediately after all the foliage has fallen from the plant.

Trimming

Unlike classic varieties, the crown of columnar cherries grows almost vertically, in an upward direction. There are no side branches. Such a crown does not require mechanical shaping in the form of pruning.

Features of cultivation

Breeding columnar varieties begins with the selection and purchase of seedlings. It is recommended to do this in large garden centers or nurseries with a good reputation. Before purchasing, you should carefully inspect the tree, paying attention to the presence of the following characteristics:

intact bud of the apical shoot;
smooth trunk with smooth bark;
powerful root system without rot;
healthy foliage.

Site selection and preparation

When choosing a site, special attention is paid to its location and soil quality. Columnar cherry plantings are allocated to areas protected from the wind and with sufficient lighting. The ideal type of soil is chernozem, without close groundwater.

Excessive soil acidity can be reduced by mixing it with wood ash.

Favorable and Undesirable Neighbors

Other varieties of cherry trees are good neighbors for columnar cherries. These are the best pollinators for partially self-fertile varieties.

Columnar cherries should not be planted next to juniper, which is often affected by a fungal disease (rust). Flying spores are highly likely to fall on cherry trees, causing their disease and rapid death.

Planting dates and technology

The right time for planting is spring. You can begin work immediately after the cessation of night frosts, but preparations begin a little earlier. Planting holes with a diameter of 80 and a depth of 70 centimeters are prepared according to the number of future seedlings. The distance between the rows is 3 meters, and between two holes - from 0.5 to 1 meter (depending on the area of the site).

Description of columnar cherries

Columnar varieties got their name because of the cylindrical shape of the crown, reminiscent of a column. The branches do not grow long, but they have many shoots. The crown does not exceed 1 m in circumference, so harvesting is easy. The culture trunk is compact and grows straight up. The tree has little foliage, but bears fruit abundantly. Its height usually does not reach more than 2.5 m.

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Flowering of columnar cherries occurs in May and begins from the first year of planting. The ripening time of berries depends on the variety. Most varieties of the berry develop sweetness throughout June. The variety also determines the color of the fruit: they can be red, yellow or black. They completely cling to the trunk of the cherry tree, which becomes like an ear of corn. On average, 12-15 kg of sweet crop is harvested from one tree.

Note! The culture is unpretentious, but to get a large and tasty harvest, it is advisable to plant the tree in a suitable place and provide it with proper care.

Description of the plant

Columnar cherry belongs to the category of unpretentious garden plants that do not require care. Such cherries, unlike tall varieties, can very harmoniously complement almost any landscape.

Variety "Baby"

Characterized by high yield and sweet and sour, very fragrant, large fruits. The plant is unpretentious and belongs to the category of self-pollinating. The self-fertile columnar cherry of this variety is represented by a compact columnar tree with a height of 1.5 to 2.0 meters with a crown diameter of no more than 0.8 meters.

The fruits are suitable for fresh consumption and canning.

Variety "Delight"

The plant of this variety is characterized by early-medium ripening. The tree does not exceed 2.5 meters in height with a crown diameter of no more than one meter. The variety is characterized by consistently high yield. The berries are large, ruby red in color and weigh from eleven to fourteen grams. The pulp of the berries is dark red, with slight pink veins and very juicy. The plant is resistant to most diseases. The fruiting period begins in the second or third year after planting.

There are also a number of winter-hardy varieties bred by private breeders. However, they are not yet included in the register and are not zoned.

Peculiarities

Columnar cherries do not require special care , but look very attractive and aesthetically pleasing. In addition, the low-growing plant is very convenient for most activities, including harvesting. The standard height of a columnar cherry can vary from one to two meters.

Disadvantages include insufficiently high yields from one garden plant, as well as the fragility of ripened fruits.

Gardeners who decide to cultivate columnar cherries on their plot should remember that this plant tolerates frosty winters quite hard and, with the exception of a few frost-resistant varieties, is not recommended for cultivation in the northern regions of our country, as well as in areas with little snow cover at sharply negative temperatures .

You should also take into account the exactingness of columnar cherries to the composition of the soil. The soil must be fully provided with minerals, and the area for this type of cherry should be located in the most illuminated place. Winter-hardy varieties of columnar cherries should be protected from the negative effects of the north wind. A good option is to plant plants on gentle southern or southwestern slopes, as well as flat areas located on the south side.

Reproduction of columnar cherries

If there is a tree on the site, you can propagate it yourself. Reproduction is carried out by grafting, seeding or cuttings. The simplest and most effective way is vaccination. The grafting can be carried out on a tree over 2 years old. Two days before grafting, the tree is watered abundantly so that it is saturated with moisture. Then the bark will easily come away from the wood. A T-shaped cut is made on the trunk at a height of 1.5 m above the ground. Take a cutting 10 cm in size. To do this, select a shoot with growth buds. Graft onto the cherry tree trunk at the site where the bark is cut. The cut should be in tight contact with the trunk. The grafting site is wrapped with film. This method of propagation allows one to preserve varietal characteristics.

Reproduction by seed takes a lot of time and effort. Take a seed from a ripe berry and plant it in a prepared container to a depth of 10 mm in loose, light soil. Water and cover the container with film and place in a warm, bright place. Then water and ventilate regularly. In May, grown seedlings are planted in the garden. In the fall, they are transplanted into a tub and brought to a warm place. In open ground conditions they are planted only in the spring of next year. With this breeding method, the preservation of varietal qualities is 50%.

Reproduction methods

The most popular methods of propagating columnar cherries are grafting and cuttings. The grafting is carried out on two-year-old trees. When cutting, suitable shoots are selected, cut and treated with root formation stimulants. Then they are planted in the ground, where rooting occurs.

Propagation by seeds is practiced less frequently, since sometimes valuable varietal characteristics are lost.

Pre-sprouted seeds are sown in individual containers and placed in a warm place for the winter. In the spring they are planted in open ground, and after strengthening - in a permanent place.

The best varieties of columnar cherries

The best varieties of columnar cherries today are considered to be Vostorg, Kudryavaya, Malyutka and Koroleva, although Sabrina will be no less in demand in certain regions. Each tree variety has its own characteristics that make it stand out from the rest.

Delight

This variety is characterized by medium-early fruit ripening. The height of the columnar trees reaches 2 m, with a crown diameter of 1 m. The ruby-red fruits are always large and weigh on average from 11 to 14 g. Under their dense skin hides juicy dark red pulp, with small pink veins.

In addition to such a high yield (in comparison with other varieties of this type of crop), the positive characteristics of the Vostorg variety include excellent resistance to typical diseases of fruit trees, large berry sizes and relatively rapid fruiting: on average, in the second or third year after planting.

As for the disadvantages of trees, they can only include partial self-sterility, which is why pollinating varieties will have to be planted nearby (for example, the Ashinsky hybrid).

Curly

Externally, all trees of the variety are very similar to ordinary representatives of mid-early columnar cherries: they grow up to 2–2.5 m in height, have a compact crown and bear sweet and sour fruits, which they begin to harvest in mid-July.

By observing all the requirements for cultivation, it is possible to collect approximately 15–20 kg of fruit from one tree.

The main advantages of the variety are ease of care, high decorativeness and good quality of fruits, and the only disadvantages include limited frost resistance, since even adult plants cannot tolerate temperature drops below -25°C.

This means that when cultivating in the central regions or northern territories of the Russian Federation, you will have to take care of good shelter for the winter.

Malyutka (Baby)

Malyutka is a representative of self-fertile varieties of columnar cherries, which can be successfully grown not only in a personal plot, but also on a spacious balcony or small terrace. A mature tree reaches a height of 2 m and rarely exceeds this mark.

All berries are very attractive and highly transportable. Harvesting is carried out in the first half of July, removing up to 10 kg of berries from one tree.

Among the advantages of the Malyutka variety are the possibility of growing a tree in a container, the universal purpose of the fruits and their earlier ripening, but the disadvantages of cultivation include not very large harvest volumes and the need to organize a winter shelter for trees in the central and northern growing regions (including in the Moscow region , Smolensk and Tula regions).

Queen

The Koroleva variety is represented by some of the tallest columnar trees, which, under good growing conditions, often exceed the three-meter mark. The late-ripening dark red berries are not as large as those of the Malyutka or Vostorg varieties, but they also reach a weight of 7 g.

Of the advantages

As for the disadvantages of growing, these include the large size of the tree and the associated difficulties of care and placement on the site.

Sabrina

All trees of the variety have standard “columnar” sizes and usually do not grow higher than 2.5 m. The crown is pyramidal and can reach 1 m in width. The fruits ripen towards the end of June, but their mass harvest begins in the first half of July. All sweet and sour berries are bright red in color with a strong stalk and dense pulp, weighing 15 g.

The Sabrina variety grows well and develops only when grown in the southern and central territories of the Russian Federation, but in the harsh northern climate, fruiting may be disrupted and trees may die in winter.

Popular varieties of dwarf cherries

Despite the fact that many gardeners are not yet familiar with the benefits of planting this crop in their garden, breeders spoil us with an abundance of zoned varieties. Among them, the following are especially popular:

“SEM” is an industrial variety, high-yielding, for group plantings, ripens in the first ten days of summer;
“Sabrina” – hardiness, frost resistance and ripening in the second half of June;
“Helena” is a dessert variety that can bear fruit for up to 25 years and ripens in mid-summer;
“Yellow” - the name speaks for itself, the harvest of yellow fruits is guaranteed for 20 years;
“Chernaya” is an unpretentious and productive variety of juicy ruby berries;
"Sylvia" - high fruitfulness and taste, ripens at the end of June;
“Baby” – the miniature size of the seedling and the sweet and sour taste of the fruit.

It would take a long time to list the varieties “Vostorg”, “Iput”, “Revna” and others, because there are a huge number of them in our nursery. You can purchase them, as well as fruit tree seedlings, at a time convenient for you.

Did you know? Traditional cherries reach a height of 30 meters; sometimes it is impossible to pick the berries from the tree; they serve as a delicacy for birds. Harvesting berries from columnar varieties is a pleasure. Dwarf trees come from Canada, where they were accidentally discovered in 1964.

How to care for culture

Caring for columnar cherry seedlings involves timely watering and fertilizing, crown formation, and protection from diseases and pests.

Regularity of watering

For normal growth and development of seedlings, moist and oxygenated soil is necessary. To do this, as it dries out, water and loosen the near-trunk soil. One tree should receive from 2 to 5 liters of water

During the period of ovary formation, it is important to increase the amount of watering, especially in dry times. Immediately after watering, loosening and weeding, mulching is carried out

Young trees benefit from frequent weeding. Weeds take away nutrients and moisture from them, which significantly slows down growth and development.

What and when to feed a tree

During the year, cherries need to be fertilized three times:

in spring, nitrogen-based preparations (ammonium nitrate or urea) are used;
in the fall, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are applied;
at the end of flowering, half a bucket of rotted manure mixed with a small amount of ash is poured under each tree.

Features of crown formation

Pruning is carried out according to a specially designed scheme, since classical methods do not give the desired result.

In the first year, the top is removed, and the side branches are also pinched at a distance of 10 centimeters from the main trunk.
In the second and third years, side shoots are pinched at a distance of 20-30 centimeters from the trunk. The top is trimmed to approximately the same distance.
In the fourth year, thin branches shading the trunk are cut off.
In the fifth and subsequent years, the top is trimmed to prevent the tree from growing upward.
In the sixth and subsequent years, they get rid of side shoots that break the shape of the crown.

Susceptibility to diseases and pests

Through long-term selection, varieties resistant to diseases and pests were bred, but some susceptibility to fungal and viral infections (coccomycosis, moniliosis), brown and perforated spot (klyasterosporiosis) still remained. Trees may also suffer from attacks by caterpillars, cherry weevils, codling moths, and cherry aphids.

Treatment

The most effective method of protection against coccomycosis and moniliosis is spraying with Bordeaux mixture and fungicidal preparations (Pthalan, Kuprozan, Zineb).

The most popular methods of controlling garden pests are the use of universal insecticides, such as Intra-Vir, Iskra.

Traditional methods of treatment are also used - treatment with a solution of laundry soap with the addition of tobacco extract.

Treatment of gum disease in cherries using folk remedies and chemicals

Read

Preventative treatments

Numerous preventative measures help reduce the risk of disease. They regularly inspect cherry trees, remove diseased leaves, spoiled and rotten fruits. Spraying with infusion of garlic, onion peels, and a solution of wood ash is also used. To protect against hares that damage the bark, tree trunks are covered with a special net or spruce branches.

Preparing plants for winter

Most varieties of columnar cherries are not resistant to winter frosts. In the fall, special preparation of plants begins to help them survive the cold season safely. The main measures to protect against frost are as follows:

Treating trunks with lime mortar will help protect plants from frost and bright sun.
Abundant watering and mulching will saturate the plants with moisture before the onset of the dormant period.
Insulation with burlap or agrofibre will protect the trunk and apical bud from freezing.
A wooden frame around the trees and subsequent wrapping will serve as protection in severe frosts.

Caring for cherries in Siberia

Note! The main differences between sweet and sour varieties and sweet cherries are smaller fruits and instability to heating (damage to the bark). To get a good harvest of cherries, it is necessary to properly prune the bushes, loosen the soil, water, feed, and also treat them against pests and diseases.

To get a good harvest of cherries, it is necessary to properly prune the bushes, loosen the soil, water, feed, and also treat them against pests and diseases.

Loosen the soil near the trunk of the seedling

For two years after planting, cherries do not require fertilizer; you just need to loosen the soil, prune, remove weeds and water. From the age of 3, young cherry trees require more careful and prolonged care.

Rules for watering and soil care

Watering with fertilizing is carried out at a depth of up to 50 cm after the flowering period, with the appearance of fruit ovaries. Cherries also need to be fed:

after the onset of fruiting;
after harvesting, add 150 grams of superphosphate and 2 kilograms of ash around the bush;
add compost in late autumn and early spring, as cherries need nitrogen fertilizing;
Once every 5 years, apply 2 kg of slaked lime along the perimeter of the crown to deoxidize the soil.

Pruning bushes during the first 2 years after planting consists of thinning the branches and is carried out until buds form. In the future, pruning must be carried out more carefully: remove branches, forks inside the crown, intertwined and elongated shoots.

Important to remember! Skeletal branches cannot be trimmed. Cherry protection must be ensured before buds open, using a 7% urea solution.

When the buds open, treat the tick with the drug "Neoron" or colloidal sulfur. In summer, during fruit growth, it is useful to spray the bushes with Fufanon. In the fall, spray with a 4% urea solution and whitewash the trunk with a lime solution with the addition of copper sulfate

Cherry protection must be ensured before buds open, using a 7% urea solution. When the buds open, treat the tick with the drug "Neoron" or colloidal sulfur. In summer, during fruit growth, it is useful to spray the bushes with Fufanon. In the fall, spray with a 4% urea solution and whitewash the trunk with a lime solution with the addition of copper sulfate.

Growing cherries in Siberian conditions with cold winters requires a more careful approach to variety selection

It is important that the selected variety is winter-hardy and least susceptible to various diseases.

Cherry spray

The best cherry varieties for Siberia have large, sweet fruits. They are highly frost-resistant and can withstand frosts down to −50 C. Despite this, cherries should be protected in winters with little snow and in the event of frosts in the spring. In autumn, it is necessary to spray before the onset of cold weather with Epinekstroy and Novosil, as well as before the flowering period. In areas with very severe frosts, trees must be insulated with pine needles, which should be removed before the onset of spring warmth.

Important! When spring frosts return, smoke can be used for insulation, which will increase the air temperature around the cherry trees by several degrees. Thus, Siberia is a suitable place for growing many varieties of cherries

This berry does not have many requirements and is quite unpretentious. It is for this and for the bright taste that gardeners love cherries so much. And which variety to choose is a personal matter for everyone

Thus, Siberia is a suitable place for growing many varieties of cherries. This berry does not have many requirements and is quite unpretentious. It is for this and for the bright taste that gardeners love cherries so much. And which variety to choose is a personal matter for everyone.

Siberia is a region with difficult climatic conditions - frosty winters, recurring spring frosts and a short summer period. Only those varieties of fruit trees that are highly resistant to frost, are not afraid of spring cold, and are distinguished by early ripening of berries should be planted in this region.

This article will discuss how to choose cherry varieties for Siberia in order to obtain annually stable large yields of this stone fruit crop, the largest, most delicious, sweet, self-fertile varieties.

How to care for culture

Caring for columnar cherry seedlings involves timely watering and fertilizing, crown formation, and protection from diseases and pests.

Regularity of watering

During the period of ovary formation, it is important to increase the amount of watering, especially in dry times. Immediately after watering, loosening and weeding, mulching is carried out

Young trees benefit from frequent weeding. Weeds take away nutrients and moisture from them, which significantly slows down growth and development.

What and when to feed a tree

During the year, cherries need to be fertilized three times:

in spring, nitrogen-based preparations (ammonium nitrate or urea) are used;
in the fall, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are applied;
at the end of flowering, half a bucket of rotted manure mixed with a small amount of ash is poured under each tree.

Features of crown formation

Pruning is carried out according to a specially designed scheme, since classical methods do not give the desired result.

In the first year, the top is removed, and the side branches are also pinched at a distance of 10 centimeters from the main trunk.
In the second and third years, side shoots are pinched at a distance of 20-30 centimeters from the trunk. The top is trimmed to approximately the same distance.
In the fourth year, thin branches shading the trunk are cut off.
In the fifth and subsequent years, the top is trimmed to prevent the tree from growing upward.
In the sixth and subsequent years, they get rid of side shoots that break the shape of the crown.

Susceptibility to diseases and pests

Treatment

The most effective method of protection against coccomycosis and moniliosis is spraying with Bordeaux mixture and fungicidal preparations (Pthalan, Kuprozan, Zineb).

The most popular methods of controlling garden pests are the use of universal insecticides, such as Intra-Vir, Iskra.

Traditional methods of treatment are also used - treatment with a solution of laundry soap with the addition of tobacco extract.

Preventative treatments

Preparing plants for winter

Treating trunks with lime mortar will help protect plants from frost and bright sun.
Abundant watering and mulching will saturate the plants with moisture before the onset of the dormant period.
Insulation with burlap or agrofibre will protect the trunk and apical bud from freezing.
A wooden frame around the trees and subsequent wrapping will serve as protection in severe frosts.

Diseases and pests

Like any other fruit plants, cherries are often attacked by various insects. These include aphids, weevils, hawthorn caterpillars and cherry sawflies. To prevent the massive spread of parasites, you need to promptly check the tree for suspicious changes (dry leaves, the appearance of strange spots of light shades). If detected, it is recommended to immediately take measures to eliminate pests. Special means that have proven themselves well in the fight against insects: Actelik, Piriton, Rovikurt. The main thing is to carefully read the instructions so as not to further harm the plantings.

You need to follow the instructions

As for common diseases of columnar cherries, these include:

Hole spot (clusterosporiasis). The causative agent is a fungus that infects cherry foliage. Signs: riddled leaves with brown spots. Transmitted by insects. For treatment, 3% Bordeaux mixture (100 ml per 10 liters of water) is suitable.
Anthracnose is a fungal disease that attacks tree fruits. At first glance, it is very difficult to discern the disease. The diagnosis is confirmed when half the crop has already been destroyed. The cherries become covered with black spots and fall off. To prevent this, in the spring you should treat the tree with the fungicide polyram (0.25 mg per 10 water).
Scab is the most common disease among all fruits. It affects both leaves and fruits. If no measures are taken, it easily spreads throughout the area. The causative agent of the disease is a fungus that appears in dry foliage. It easily tolerates frost, so gardeners strongly recommend periodically raking debris under the trees and burning it. Chemistry and folk remedies are suitable as treatments. From the latter you can make a solution of mustard (10 liters of water 100 g of powder) and treat the tree and the area around the trunk. It is advisable to do this after rain. You can also spray the cherries with a weak (slightly pink) solution of potassium permanganate.

A gardener who has planted a columnar cherry tree on his property will 100% not regret his decision. At least on the Internet there are no negative reviews of this culture, but, on the contrary, only positive comments. And there are several reasons for this - an unusual dwarf appearance, a rich harvest and compactness in cultivation!

The best varieties of columnar cherries

Columnar trees are distinguished mainly by a straight vertical trunk and thin, short side shoots, which is clearly visible in the photo and gives originality to the plantings. The best varieties, which are not very different from each other, include two types:

Helena variety. The tree, no more than 3 meters high, is distinguished by its high stable yield (12-14 kg per tree) and early fruiting, with large fruits. Mid-early variety, ripe fruits appear in mid-June. The berries are burgundy in color with dark red flesh with pinkish veins. The species is self-fertile, but to increase productivity it is recommended to plant with the Sylvia variety.
Variety Sylvia. Its main characteristics are similar to the previous species and combine perfectly when planting the two species together. The berries are large and ruby in color. Both species have average winter hardiness, so in cold climates it is better to cover them for the winter. The variety is classified as a high-yielding species with good resistance to various diseases.

Features of columnar varieties

Columnar varieties of cherries are used in industrial gardening and are also suitable for planting in small garden plots. With proper care, they produce a bountiful harvest every year.

Columnar cherry is distinguished by a powerful straight trunk and short shoots. Side branches are missing or cut short. Thanks to this crown shape, the tree occupies a very limited space on the site. There are dwarf species with a height of no more than 1.5-2 meters. They are suitable for growing in tubs and can take their rightful place in a greenhouse or winter garden.

The advantage of columnar cherries is the combination of decorative properties, good yield and high taste of the fruit.

Description of culture

Cherry is considered a leader in the content of useful substances in its composition:

glucose;
anthocyanide;
coumarin;
vitamins C, E, B9;
trace elements (sodium, zinc, boron, fluorine, magnesium);
acids (malic, salicylic, citric);
pectins;
fructose.

This is only a part of the beneficial components that are contained in the fruits of each cherry variety. Together, they support the normal functioning of internal organs, act as a prevention and treatment of kidney diseases, anemia, and arthrosis.

For your information! Vitamin B9 (folic acid), which cherries are rich in, strengthens blood vessels.

Thanks to the high content of pectins, cherries are able to remove toxins and waste. In case of bacterial diseases, eating berries promotes a speedy recovery. Cherry juice is used as a cancer preventative because it contains ellagic acid. In case of cardiovascular diseases and stomach diseases, the berry normalizes natural processes. Some components of cherries suppress the development of epilepsy and jaundice (infectious).

But the berry is popular not only due to its medicinal properties; it serves as a decoration for areas. During the flowering period, the tree is completely covered with a white head of flowers, and this beauty cannot be compared with anything.

Possible pests and diseases

Among the most common problems of columnar cherries are cleasterosporiasis (characterized by the appearance of holes on the leaves and ulcers on the shoots), fungal diseases (especially coccomycosis and fruit rot), as well as pest damage:

cherry weevil (feeds on the juice of buds, flowers and fruits of cherries, leaving a large number of passages in them);
cherry sawfly (feeds on the sap of leaves and lives mainly on the inside of the leaf, over time causing the leaf blade to dry out and die);
leaf aphids (sucks juice from different parts of the plant, causing the cherry leaves to curl and the branches to be severely deformed);
hawthorn caterpillar (eats leaves and buds, leaving holes in them and significantly reducing the abundance of the cherry harvest).

Sources:

https://glav-dacha.ru/kolonovidnaya-vishnya/ https://dachamechty.ru/vishnya/kolonovidnaya-sorta.html https://fermer.blog/tag/kolonovidnaya-vishnya

Care and pruning

The complex of care measures includes watering, fertilizing and pruning.

Columnar cherries bear fruit abundantly, so during dry summers and the first two years after planting they need regular watering. In the first year, it is necessary to remove all ovaries to increase survival rate.

In the spring, trees are fertilized with nitrogen-containing fertilizers, if possible of organic origin. In autumn, potassium-phosphorus complexes are laid. Consumption should not exceed the specific manufacturer's recommendations.

Columnar cherry blossoms

Agricultural technology involves the absence of weeds and complete removal of plant residues in the fall.

Pruning columnar cherries has its own nuances:

The following diagram can simplify the task of forming columnar cherries:

1st year. Pinching side shoots at a distance of 10 cm from the main trunk. Removing the top.

2nd year. The top is pinched when it grows 30 centimeters. The side shoots are at a level of 20 cm from the trunk.

3rd year. The top shoot is pinched. Side branches are cut at a distance of 30 cm from the main trunk.

4th year. Thin branches shading the trunk are cut off.

5th year and subsequent. They stop the tree from growing upward: constantly cutting off the top at a level of 2.5-3 meters, depending on the variety.

6th and every three years after it, cut off the side shoots according to the diameter of the molded crown.

Growing in containers

In regions with a harsh climate, you can grow columnar cherries in containers, and we’ll look at how to do this below. Cherries of this type are short and miniature, so cultivating them in tubs or containers does not pose any difficulties. In this way, the industrial cultivation of columnar fruit plants can be promoted to the north.

If you plan to grow cherries on the balcony, then it is recommended to select a place on the south side. Peat garden soil is used as a soil substrate in a ratio of 1:8. Mineral fertilizers of 30 g per ten-liter bucket and dolomite powder are added to it. To retain moisture, hydrogel is poured onto the bottom.

Homemade columnar cherries begin to be fed from the second year after planting. Why use complex mineral supplements and water-soluble organic matter? For the winter, it is better to take the tubs with plantings into the basement, where the ambient temperature is kept between -10 and +5 degrees.

How to care

In modern gardening, columnar forms of apple, pear and plum trees have long been used, but purchasing a cherry seedling is still quite difficult. This results in very little information and practical experience on growing these tree species.

In general, caring for “compact” cherries is not much different from ordinary ones, except for pruning and crown formation, as described earlier.

Basic rules for caring for cherries:

Fertilizers are applied once a year. For young seedlings this is 15–20 grams of phosphorus and potassium (mixed with humus). For older trees, you can increase the dosage to 50 grams of each element per hole. But how to use quail droppings for fertilizer can be found in this article.
Prevention against pests and characteristic diseases is carried out in early spring before flowering. For this purpose, whitewashing of the trunk and spraying with Bordeaux mixture is used.
In the first year of life, the sensitive top may freeze, so it is recommended to organize a reliable shelter in winter.
Sweet cherries love watering, especially during the period of fruit formation. The tree also needs loosening of the root area, which is carried out regularly at any period of development.

Columnar cherries will become a pleasant decoration for the area, and thanks to their compact size, you can arrange a whole planting of such “decor”. The main stages of crown care and formation, as well as important conditions for planting, are discussed in our article.

Source

What does the tree look like?

Neat, low-growing trees grow up to 2.5 m in height. Dark green shiny leaves are densely located on the trunk, giving the cherry a decorative appearance even outside the flowering period. In spring, the plants are completely covered with fragrant pink flowers.

Attention! Columnar cherries planted in flower pots and along garden paths give the area a chic look.

The pyramidal crown grows in width by no more than 1 m. This is convenient for care and harvesting, when there is no need to use pole-cutters and ladders. Young cherry seedlings have a thickened trunk and are distinguished by the almost complete absence of lateral branches.

As the tree develops, it requires regular pruning and crown formation, but to a lesser extent than conventional varieties.

The root system of plants is fibrous and more superficial than that of tall species. The fruits of columnar cherries are juicy, aromatic, with a well-separable stone. The skin of the berries is soft and thin. This limits the shelf life to 7-10 days.

To protect the upper roots from damage, cereals or herbs are sown around the trunk.

Do you protect the roots of your cherry tree by planting grasses and grasses around the trunk?

Of course! No, but should I?

How do I prune a tree

Before you start work, you should prepare your tools. You will need pruning shears, a garden saw and a lopper. All blades should be sharp and disinfected to minimize injury to the tree.

After this, you should evaluate the crown and begin harvesting excess branches according to the following scheme:

First, remove branches that are too bulky and interfere with the growth of other shoots. Only the skeletal, crown-forming parts need to be left. It is better not to touch small branches, but leave them for spring.
Remove branches that duplicate each other. Thus, the tree will rejuvenate, but the amount of harvest will not change.
Cut down shoots that grow vertically, forming an acute angle to the trunk.
If necessary, you can also adjust the height of the cherry tree by shortening the vertical branches.

These methods are great for cherry trees.

You will need:

Why drive nails into an apple tree? Gardeners have a wide variety of mechanical devices at their disposal for working on their plots, and...

Advantages and disadvantages according to reviews from gardeners

The decorative properties of dwarf trees and their high productivity attract the attention of gardeners to them.
Lovers of new products have already tried various varieties on their plots and are actively sharing their opinions on gardening forums. At the same time, experts note that from the point of view of a biologist, only an apple tree can be called “columnar,” while for cherries, plums and pears it is rather a popular name based on the appearance of the trees.

As a definite plus, users note the beauty of spring flowering and the pleasant taste of the berries. In temperate latitudes, trees sometimes bloom only in the fifth year . Also, cold and little snowy winters affect the number of berries collected, their sweetness and size.

Important! Gardeners are advised to plant plants on gentle southern slopes and insulate them before wintering. Protection from cold winds has a good effect on the safety of trees.

Reviews can be read here and by following this link.

Criteria for selecting cherry varieties for central Russia

Conventionally, the central zone of Russia includes the area limited from the north by the Leningrad and Vologda regions (including them), from the south - by the Belgorod and Saratov regions (including them). The Moscow region also belongs to the middle zone; in the west it borders with Belarus, in the east with the Volga region.

In the middle zone there are warm summers, usually rainy spring and autumn, severe winters are possible and return frosts are likely in spring

When buying cherry seedlings, you should pay attention to the following characteristics of the variety:

winter hardiness;
resistance to fungal diseases;
ripening time;
beginning of fruiting;
tree height;
self-fertility;
taste qualities;
the ability to propagate the variety by root shoots.

Zoned cherry varieties grow and bear fruit well in central Russia

Winter hardiness

Higher requirements for the winter hardiness of cherries are imposed when they are grown in the northern regions of the middle zone. In the southern regions, wintering conditions are not so harsh. Spring frosts are quite likely until the end of May; return frosts occur until mid-June. They can lead to the death of buds, flowers, young leaves and shoots. Autumn frosts in some areas of this region sometimes occur in mid-September.

Cherries are sensitive to temperature fluctuations. Buds that swell during a thaw may die when the temperature drops below 0 °C

If in the area where seedlings are supposed to be planted, there is a high probability of spring and return frosts, you need to pay attention to the winter hardiness of flower buds

Sometimes cherry flowers can bloom too early and die from return frosts, so it is better to plant varieties whose flower buds are resistant to this phenomenon

To protect early ripening cherries from spring frosts, it is recommended to trample the snow in the tree trunk and cover it with light material or hay. These measures will help delay the onset of flowering.

Resistance to fungal diseases

Cherry is susceptible to coccomycosis and moniliosis. The development of these fungal diseases is favored by damp, cool summers, often observed in some areas of the Central Russian region.

It is advisable to choose varieties that are resistant to coccomycosis and other fungi.

Dates of ripening and beginning of fruiting

The ripening period for early varieties is at the end of June - the first half of July, for medium varieties - in the second half of July, for late varieties - at the end of July and August. In the northern regions of the middle zone, it is risky to plant early varieties; their flowering may coincide with a period of recurrent frosts. The fruits of late varieties may not have time to ripen due to the short summer.

Typically, cherries begin to bear fruit in the 5th–6th year. There are early-fruiting varieties, as well as varieties of cherries that can produce a harvest in the 2nd–4th year.

Bush types and varieties of cherries are more early-bearing than tree-like ones, but, of course, the harvest from felt cherries will be smaller

Bush varieties, for example, felt cherry, are more precocious than standard varieties. Early-growing varieties quickly increase yield, which is an undoubted advantage when growing them in the conditions of risky farming in the middle zone. Another way to speed up the entry of cherries into fruiting is grafting: grafted seedlings produce a harvest in the 2nd–3rd year.

Cherry height

Cherry trees can grow up to 7 m. However, usually their height is 3–5 m, and low-growing specimens do not exceed 2.5 m. In the middle zone, you can grow tree and bush varieties of cherries of any height, but remember that short trees are easier to protect from frosts, they are easier to care for.

Pollination method

According to the method of pollination, they are distinguished:

self-fertile cherries - they do not need other varieties nearby to bear fruit, they are able to set up to 50% of the fruit when pollinated by their own pollen;
self-sterile cherries - to form ovaries they need simultaneously flowering varieties growing in the same area; they cannot set more than 5% of the fruits when pollinated by their own pollen;
partially self-fertile cherries - capable of setting up to 20% of fruits when pollinated by their own pollen.

To obtain a large yield from self-fertile and partially self-fertile cherries, it is desirable to have a pollinator. In the case of self-sterile cherries, a pollinator is required.

How and when to plant cherries in the Moscow region

To grow cherries in the climatic conditions of the Moscow region, certain requirements must be met. They relate to timing, location and methods of planting. The distance between cherries is 3 m. Low-growing or dwarf species are planted at a distance of 2 m.

Selecting the landing time

Experts recommend doing this in the spring. Before the buds open, approximately in early April. For autumn planting, it is recommended to organize everything before October. Otherwise, the tree will not take root and will freeze in winter.

Among other things, the characteristics of the seedling itself must be taken into account; some specimens may freeze. It is better not to plant in the fall, but leave the planting until the spring; the seedling is dug in, wrapped well and left to overwinter. In early spring you can plant it in a permanent place.

Selecting a location

In order for the seedlings to feel good, it is necessary to choose the right place. A well-lit area in the sun is suitable. Soil composition:

loamy;
sandy loam.

Melt water should not stagnate at the planting site. Before planting, the acidity of the area is checked; it should be neutral. Liming is carried out if necessary. It is better not to use southern slopes for planting, as the tree will freeze there in winter and will need a lot of water in summer.