How to properly plant a plum in spring in Siberia: instructions for planting and care

Climatic conditions

There are a large number of types of plums that are highly resistant to frost and are suitable for growing in Siberian regions. They tolerate winters well, but some problems cannot be avoided with them, which depend on:

Temperature changes can cause the buds and top of the tree to freeze. It is recommended to give preference to varieties with a long dormant period and weak buds.
Drying of shoots by wind.
Due to the lack of frost and the presence of snow, the lower part of the trunk dies. Removing snow will not help in this case, as the root system may freeze.

Based on the facts presented, a conclusion emerges: steppe areas and individual zones with a small amount of snow are suitable for growing fruit trees.

Care

Caring for plums in Siberia depends on the specific area and microclimate. The harsher the region, the less pruning, organic fertilizing and watering should be done.

In the Novosibirsk, Tomsk and Irkutsk regions, in Buryatia, there is no need to further injure and stimulate the plants.

Formation

Scheme for pruning plum trees in the first years of life.

For Siberian plums, it is desirable to maintain the genetically determined head start of the variety - a tree or bush. The trees are formed on a low trunk, cutting the seedling by a third when planting.

If a root shoot appears, it is cut out . Side shoots are left only on self-rooted plums if they are needed to renew dead trunks and aging specimens.
Sanitary pruning is performed in the spring, removing dry, broken, frozen branches. Frostbites are stripped down to healthy tissue. The wounds are immediately covered with varnish .
Experienced gardeners do not advise shortening healthy annual growth : this is where the future harvest is laid.
In aging trees (sometimes as early as 7–8 years old ), young shoots grow weakly and large branches die off. Early spring anti-aging pruning is required for 3-5 year old wood (removing up to 30% of the crown, but no more). Plums in Siberia can grow and bear fruit for 10–20 years. There are known “long-livers” whose age is 60–80 years .

Whitewash

The trunks and skeletal branches protect against winter-spring sunburn with the help of whitewash.

The work is carried out in the fall, using a mixture: 3 kg of lime, 2 kg of clay, 500 g of iron sulfate (diluted with water to the desired consistency).

Prevention of damping off

When damping occurs, the bark and cadmium at the base of the trunk die off.

Particularly dangerous for plums is this type of winter damage, such as partial heating and complete damping off - death of the bark and cambium in the lower part of the trunk and on the root collar. The pathology develops when in the fall the snow cover falls on the unfrozen ground, and in the winter loose snowdrifts of more than 40 cm grow. The base of the tree rots in dampness, at temperatures around zero.

Sometimes damaged plants begin to bloom in the spring, but then gradually wither or die completely. Often shoots appear from the root, but this too can support the plant in subsequent years.

It is damping off, and not freezing, that is the main cause of death of plum plants in Siberia (if we are talking about winter-hardy varieties). They have been trying to solve the problem for several decades, breeding new hybrids and selecting rootstocks, but so far there has been no dramatic success. Agrotechnical techniques help out.

Plums planted on a mound rather than in a hole are much less susceptible to damping off.

If plums are planted in a place where the potential height of snow cover is more than 40 cm , it is advisable to ensure that the trunk is free of moisture, as well as the necessary freezing of the ground in the root collar . Various methods are used for this:

In autumn, with the arrival of cold weather, the tree is covered with large stones.
The trunk is insulated from the snow by tying dense fabric (like polypropylene sugar bags) in its upper part with a downward expansion in the form of a hut (skirt).
Trees are protected for the winter with a high casing made of wood, slate or metal, retreating from the trunk 25 cm. The structure is covered from above (to prevent snow from getting inside), providing the base with plums " dry» wintering.
Protecting a young plum seedling from damping off using boards.
Before snowfalls, a tall barrel is placed upside down near the trunk. In winter, it rises above the snow, and the ground beneath it freezes.
The snow around the trunk is regularly trampled down , and in March (with the arrival of thaws) it is shoveled away .

Moderate (about 30 cm ) soil freezing is not dangerous for winter-hardy varieties.

Choosing a frost-resistant variety

Corn in Siberia: planting and care
Which plum is best to plant in Siberia? The best option is frost-resistant self-fertile varieties. These include:

Ussuri plum

It loves moisture, but does not tolerate its accumulation, since in this case the root system rots. But a lack of water will lead to leaf fall and reduced winter hardiness. Of the Ussuri plums, the following varieties best withstand Siberian winters: Zarya Altaya, Altai Yubileinyaya, Pyramidalnaya, Krasnoshchekaya, Zheltaya Khopty.

All of them are frost-resistant, damping-resistant, early-fruiting varieties. Moreover, they are practically self-sterile. Flowering and fruit formation occurs when there are 2–3 pollinators nearby.

Canadian plum

Grows in Canada and the USA. According to its habitat conditions, it is similar to the American plum. In Russia you can find Karzinskaya - a mixture of Canadian and American culture. Karzin plum is represented by the following varieties: Rumyana and Kulundinskaya.

Subject to damping off of roots in winter. The buds can withstand frosts down to −2°C.

Canadian plum

Plum crossed with cherry

It bears fruit already 3-4 years after planting. When flowering, it can withstand temperature drops down to −2°C. Hybrid plants have low frost resistance, and this species is no exception. In Russia, plum crosses are rarely used; common ones include Beta, Manor, and Pchelka.

In such hybrids, flowering begins later than in other varieties. Plum and sand cherry interpollinate well. Disadvantage: High susceptibility to hole spot disease. Advantages: winter hardiness, large tasty fruits, ease of care.

Plum crossed with cherry

Russian plum

Obtained as a result of a mixture of cherry plum and Ussuri plum. Withstands extremely low temperatures (down to −45°C), the buds survive at −30°C. Resistant to drought and damping off. The berries are small (40 g), but very tasty. Now many varieties of this species are known, but the most popular among them are Yantarnaya, Rubin, Alaya Zarya plums, and Medok.

The main advantage is that after severe damage, plants recover easily and quickly. Russian plum demonstrates high yields - up to 40–42 kg per tree.

Russian plum Medok

Chinese plum

Subspecies of Ussuri plum. Popularly called the Manchurian Beauty. Suitable for growing in areas with little snow and frosty winters. Chinese plum will withstand temperatures down to -55ºC with minimal damage. Flowers can withstand frosts down to −5ºС. The most popular plum variety of this subspecies is Podarok Chemala.

Since Ussuri plums are practically self-fertile, to set fruit you will need to plant 2-3 mutually pollinating trees nearby.

It is worth choosing a frost-resistant plum variety by region:

For the Urals, it is better to choose the following varieties: Zhemchuzhina and Pride of the Urals. For regions with heavy snowfall, Stranger, Nakhodka, and Daughter of Buryatia are suitable.
For the southern regions of Siberia, Rumyana Zorka, Kulundinskaya and other Kargazin varieties have proven themselves well. They are not resistant to damping off, but are cold-resistant and drought-resistant.

Note! The most winter-hardy plants are hybrids of domestic breeders. American varieties are susceptible to trunk freezing.

Chinese plum

Overview of suitable varieties

To select a variety, you need to analyze the characteristics of each species, take into account all the important points: fruit size, harvest time, tree dimensions. For simplicity, all varieties are divided into several groups; first, you should determine which of them is suitable, then find a specific option that can be purchased at a nursery or gardening store.

Self-fertile species

These plum varieties are best suited for Siberia; for normal fruiting, you do not need to plant another tree nearby. Plus, they pollinate well even under unfavorable weather conditions, when there are few bees and the ovaries on ordinary varieties are poorly formed. The most popular of them:

Peresvet. The plums are small in size, but there are a lot of them on the branches; they can be used for any purpose. They usually ripen in the first half of August. The trees do not exceed 4 m in height, and most often half a meter or meter lower.
Maynor. Large, with dark burgundy skin and excellent taste, they are used fresh, but they are even better suited for preparations. The plants are moderately spreading and require shaping to avoid crowding.
Hungarian. A well-known variety that grows well in Siberia and in the middle zone. The height is up to 6 meters, the yield is high, but if not processed on time, at least half of the fruits are usually wormy.
Dawn of Altai. Small-fruited variant, ripening period - mid-August. Fruits abundantly due to the large number of ovaries. The peel color is orange with a pronounced scarlet blush on the sunny side.
Red-cheeked. The orange skin has many red specks, which is where this variant gets its name. The plums are medium in size, ripen in the middle or second half of August, and can be used for any purpose. An important advantage is the resistance of fruit buds to spring frosts.
Greengage. Tall plants - up to 6 meters, with a voluminous crown, are very rarely affected by fungal diseases. The fruits are large - up to 5 cm in diameter, the color varies from golden to purple.

There are partially self-fertile varieties, but it is better not to plant them. Without a pollinator nearby, the yield on such plants usually does not exceed 30% of potential. That is, they still require a pollinator; without it, the trees will bear little fruit.

Sweet options

If taste comes first, then you need to choose from a limited list. Sweet plum varieties also grow normally in Siberia, although there are not as many of them as in the middle zone or southern regions. Choose from a limited list that contains all proven options:

Valor. Large fruits with dark burgundy skin have an excellent taste. The crown is of medium size and spreading; about 30 kg are removed from the tree per season.
Oyuna. It came to the region from China, was bred there and is successfully grown in the northern regions. The plums look beautiful: pink, smooth and one-dimensional.
Interesting. One of the highest yielding options. The fruits are purple in color and ripen towards the end of August. Good fresh, suitable for any preservation.
Baikal Amber. It is distinguished by very juicy and sweet pulp, the taste is one of the best that can be grown in Siberia. The skin is bright orange, medium thickness.
Manchurian beauty. In addition to pronounced sweetness, the taste has a slight sourness; it will be appreciated by those who do not like sugary varieties. The trees are quite large.
Altai anniversary. Medium plums with pink skin. The taste is good, suitable for fresh consumption and canning.

To improve the taste, you need to fertilize the tree trunk at least once every 2 years. Monitor the level of moisture in the soil; if the soil is dry, water the trees 2 times a month, otherwise the fruits will become smaller and the taste will deteriorate. Another condition for good ripening is abundant sunlight.

Frost-resistant varieties

In Siberia, plum varieties by default should tolerate cold well and not die in winter. But there are options that withstand frost especially well. They are recommended to be planted in the coldest areas with abundant snow cover. Suitable types:

Honey. It tolerates temperatures down to -30 without damage and ripens quite early. The main difference is the large size of the tree; a lot of space must be allocated for it, which is not very convenient in small areas.
Uvelskaya. Bred by Siberian breeders, it tolerates winter conditions well. The taste is very good, with a high sugar content, the flesh is tender. Buds and flowers can withstand short-term spring frosts with almost no damage.
Pioneer. An extremely unpretentious option, it is almost not infected with fungal diseases, and tolerates drought well. To set fruit, be sure to plant a pollinator nearby. Gives abundant harvests.
Yellow Khopty. A variety of Ussuri selection, the plants are short, very viable, and tolerate temperatures down to -50 degrees. Partially self-fertile, but for normal ovary formation it is better to plant another tree nearby.
Bee and Chulym. Two options with similar characteristics, the only difference is the color of the peel, Chulym’s is blue, Pchelka’s is brown. The plant size is small, the crown is sparse, the fruits are small, the taste is average.
Admiral Schley. Tolerates low temperatures and grows well throughout the region. Plums ripen very late: starting at the end of July - so the option is ideal for a short summer.

New options are periodically tested and regionalized. If you are selecting a new species, the main thing is to thoroughly study the characteristics of its cultivation, the requirements for care, and the pollination conditions. Very often, a specific variety is recommended as a pollinator; it is advisable to plant it.

What options should not be planted?

In addition to the recommended varieties, there are those that are undesirable to use in Siberia, although their characteristics are suitable for the region. This is due to some features and disadvantages inherent in plants. Remember simple recommendations:

Most of the species bred by Ural breeders tolerate low temperatures well, but the lower part of the trunk is severely damped, annual shoots often die and fruit buds die in the spring. These problems are especially characteristic of the Uvelskaya, Kuyashskaya, Shershnevskaya and Uyskaya varieties.
Many types of Altai selection are recommended to be planted only in the region; in the cold and snowy winters of the Novosibirsk region and other northern regions, plums freeze or become damp. First of all, these are the varieties Timoshka, Vika, Peresvet, In Memory of Putov, Chemalsky Souvenir, Chemal’s Gift.

You shouldn’t even try to breed varieties zoned in mid-latitudes. All attempts to breed such varieties end in failure; the plants often freeze slightly in winter or are severely damaged in spring. It is advisable to buy from a nursery, so you can be sure that the seedling corresponds to the information on the label.

Advice!

If plums are grown in neighboring areas, find out about the features of the different options. Choose one that does not require special care and does not suffer from winter cold and spring frosts.

Plum in Siberia: planting and care

Before planting, you need to decide on the site, and also purchase a high-quality seedling. If you follow the recommendations, there will be no difficulties in growing.

Apricot in Siberia: planting and care

How to plant a plum tree in spring in Siberia:

The best option would be a slope on the southwest, west or south side. This way, water will not flood the root system. For the same reason, you cannot plant on a slope.
Trees should be planted in well-lit areas.
If a low-lying place is chosen for planting, it is recommended to make a hill 50–60 cm in height and plant the plant in it. This will help protect it from damping out and flooding of the root system.
The composition of the soil is taken into account. The ideal area is considered to be an area with black soil, gray forest and loamy soil. In addition, the soil must have good air permeability.
Plum is a capricious plant, so it will bear fruit abundantly only in areas sheltered from the wind.
When buying a seedling in a store, you should pay attention to its appearance. The condition of the root system is assessed: it should be well developed, ideally have several white roots. Good roots consist of 5–6 shoots with a length of 25 cm. The thickness of the trunk should be at least 2 cm. For planting, seedlings 1–2 years old are used.

The optimal time for planting plums in Siberia is spring. In the fall, the seedling may not have time to take root and will die when the first frost sets in. The distance between the holes depends on the characteristics of the plant: for tall plants - at least 3 m, for shrubs - from 1.5 to 2.5 m. If the selected variety is not self-fertile, you will need to plant a plant suitable for pollination nearby.

Having bought a seedling, you need to prepare a hole. A hole is dug 60 cm deep and 60*60 cm to the sides. Part of the soil from the hole must be mixed with organic fertilizer (wood ash and black soil).

Planting process:

Drive 1-2 pegs in the center of the hole.
Planting soil is poured into the hole.
It is covered with ordinary soil to a depth of approximately 5–10 cm. The root system must be cleared of fertilizers.
The seedling is installed in the center of the hole.
The roots are carefully distributed throughout the hole.
The tree is tied to pegs for stability.
It is covered with earth up to the root neck.
Water generously (at least 3 buckets of water).
The soil is being mulched.

Note! You cannot cover the root collar with soil, as this will lead to rotting of the trunk and the appearance of fungal diseases.

You should not overuse fertilizers; they should be used only when necessary. At the initial stages of growth, the seedling can be fertilized with wood ash, compost and humus. Chemical fertilizers can be used as soon as the tree reaches three years of age or begins to bear fruit.

Plum planting method

How to land

The process consists of several stages; work should begin long before planting the tree, since without proper preparation the chances of success will be low. Due to not the most favorable climatic conditions, it is extremely important to strictly follow the recommendations and choose the right time and place.

Choosing a location and preparing a pit

If you place a plum in the wrong place, then even perfect adherence to agricultural technology will not save the plant from constant problems or even death. Therefore, it is worth understanding all the cultural preferences in order to select a site with suitable conditions:

It is best if the crown is illuminated by the sun all day. Only slight shading is allowed, otherwise development will slow down, the trunk will grow crooked, and much fewer ovaries will form.
The depth of groundwater is at least one and a half meters, and ideally 2 meters or more. Also, you should not plant plums in lowlands, since cold air accumulates there in the fall and winter, and melt water in the spring, which will lead to the death of the root system.
Place it no closer than 3 m from a fence or buildings. It is better to choose the south or west side. Choose a place protected from cold winds; under no circumstances plant in a draft.
When planting several plants in one area or establishing a garden, leave 2 to 4 meters between them, depending on the size. For columnar options, the distance is less - about a meter. Between the rows, make passages of 3 to 4 meters or more if equipment will travel there.

After choosing a location, prepare a planting hole, doing this at least six months before planting the tree. This is necessary to saturate the soil with nutrients and improve its structure. Plum prefers light soil, saturated with microelements and well-permeable to air. Carry out the work like this:

Dig a hole with a diameter of 70 to 10 cm and a depth of 60 to 80 cm. The poorer the soil, the larger the hole to provide food for the tree; this should also be done in places with a high clay content.
If there is a danger of the groundwater level rising in the spring, then it is advisable to pour a 20 cm thick drainage layer on the bottom. Use large crushed stone, broken brick or small stones.
On depleted soils, add a 10 cm thick layer of humus or rotted manure to the bottom. If the acidity level is elevated, add dolomite flour or slaked lime to deoxidize.
Prepare a nutrient mixture of fertile soil, sand and humus in equal proportions. Mix well, add 300 g of superphosphate and 150 g of potash fertilizers.
Fill the hole 3/4 full. Compact it well, cover it with soil from the site, and make a small mound. If the surface subsides significantly within a month, add more soil.

Leave the prepared area for at least six months so that the soil compacts and does not sag. If there are several holes, it is better to drive a peg in the center of each for a guide, then plant exactly in the middle and not move the hole when planting. Remove weeds if prepared in spring.

Landing

Buy a high-quality and healthy seedling, when choosing, pay attention to the condition of the roots, they must be healthy, without rot and blackness, severe damage and drying out are not allowed. A straight trunk, a neat grafting site, uniform and smooth bark are signs of a healthy plant. It is advisable to purchase a variant with a closed root system; it is easier to plant. Carry out the work like this:

Dig a hole in the prepared area slightly larger than the size of the rhizome. Select the depth so that the root collar is above ground level. Try on the plant, put a slat or shovel handle, check if the seedling is buried.
Align the tree. Immediately drive in a peg for the initial tying of the trunk.
Cover the roots with a layer of about 10 cm, level the ground, pour 3 buckets of warm or pre-settled water into the hole. Then fill the hole to ground level, compact the surface well, no need to water from above.
Tie the plum, use soft twine, do not tighten it too much, so as not to damage the bark. Make a small furrow around the perimeter of the tree trunk to collect moisture.

Advice!

It is best to carry out work in Siberia in the spring after the soil has thawed, then over the course of the season the tree will adapt and take root normally. In autumn it is allowed to plant only in early September, but there is no guarantee that the seedling will survive the winter.

When using the option with a closed root system, it still needs to be prepared. After removing the container, carefully inspect the bottom and sides, straighten the roots if they are wrinkled. If mold is found, destroy the soil lump and remove all affected areas.

How to care for plums in Siberia

Caring for a plum tree in Siberia requires following certain rules that will help you get a rich harvest every year. The requirements are multifaceted, therefore they are combined into several groups.

Preventing ground freezing

Hydrangea in Siberia: planting and care, reproduction

Most types of plums are winter-hardy, but they are not immune to damping off. This happens due to large volumes of snow and lack of frost. There are three ways to protect a tree:

When planting, place small stones in the hole.
In case of heavy snowfalls, immediately compact the layer of snow around the tree.
Installation of barrels around the trunk, several times higher than the expected height of snow. The volume of one barrel must be more than 200 liters.

Using available materials (for example, slate) you can create an impermeable layer. The method is called “dry wintering of the trunk.”

Watering and fertilizing

Young seedlings are watered once a week; trees over 2 years old should be watered no more than 3 times a season. You need enough water to wet the soil to a depth of 30 cm. As a rule, 3-4 buckets are enough for this.

Note! Excess moisture will lead to pests. Therefore, you need to familiarize yourself in advance with the features of caring for the selected variety. As a rule, the first watering is carried out in mid-May, the second - as soon as the plant finishes blooming, the third - during the ripening period, the fourth - in mid-autumn.

If you plant the seedling correctly, adding a sufficient amount of fertilizer to the hole, you need to fertilize it twice a year:

In autumn - with preparations high in phosphorus and potassium.
In spring - substances containing magnesium and nitrogen.

You can use organic fertilizers: ash, turf, manure, humus.

Crown formation

Once every 3 years, dried branches from trees that have already begun to bear fruit are pruned. In the spring, sanitary pruning of branches (no more than 30% of the crown) that have suffered from winter frosts is carried out.

To form a beautiful and neat crown, the side shoots are removed, leaving only the largest shoot. In addition, root shoots also hinder the development of the plant; they need to be removed in the spring.

Diseases and pests

The main pests of plums are codling moths, aphids and sawflies. To prevent their attack:

spraying with special preparations (sold in a specialized store);
treating the trunk with slaked lime;
watering and spraying with chamomile decoction.

Clusterosporiosis often affects plums. The first signs are brown spots on the leaves. The disease can be controlled using fungicides and insecticides.

Note! To get rid of the bulk of harmful insects, a birdhouse on a tree will help. But be sure to feed the birds regularly so that they do not spoil the fruits.

Post-harvest care

After harvesting, the plum will need to be given a little more attention. At the beginning of autumn, the soil is fertilized. To do this, you can use the preparations Healthy Garden or Extrasol. They are intended for fertilizing plants in the tree trunk circle by watering. You will also need to update the mulch by adding some humus and fresh hay.

Is it possible to grow a plum from a seed?

This question is often asked by new gardeners. Sometimes experienced specialists face such a dilemma. After all, from time to time there is a desire to plant a completely different variety from those available on the site.

Initially, we note that there are 3 ways to get a tree:

Propagation by green cuttings.
Use of root shoots.
You can grow a plum from a seed.

The last method is of greatest interest. However, before considering this method, you should learn about some features:

The planting process is quite labor-intensive. It will require a lot of patience from you.
Not every tree grown from a seed will bear fruit.
Sometimes plums differ in taste characteristics from their “parent”.

However, do not rush to despair. Is it possible to grow a plum from a seed that will have excellent characteristics? Experienced breeders say yes. After all, it is from the seeds that new varieties are developed. And maybe you will turn out to be the second Michurin.

As you can see, a pitted plum may well appear on your site. Even novice gardeners can grow a tree at home.

You just need to listen to the advice of experienced specialists:

Planting material should be taken from ripe, juicy plums.
It's best to take a few seeds. Because in the first year, some seedlings may not withstand frost and die.
It is recommended to plant the seedling initially at home - in a pot. And only in the fall transfer it to open ground. Such conditions will ensure a high probability that the seedling will take root and begin to bear fruit.

How to properly prepare a plant for winter

As a rule, you need to prepare for winter 1-2 weeks before the onset of cold weather. Organic fertilizers are added to the tree trunk circle: mix 1 bucket of humus, 40 g of potassium sulfate and 250 g of wood ash. Fertilizer is applied to previously loosened soil, lightly digging in with a hoe or shovel. Finally, water the ground with 2-3 buckets of water.

After this, it is important to inspect the trunk and crown for the presence of dry branches. Damaged bark can be removed using a scraper or wire brush. When performing work, you should be careful not to damage healthy areas of the tree.

Crown formation

To protect against insects, the trunk is treated with a special solution, which can be purchased at the store or made independently. To do this, you will need to mix in equal proportions: clay, lime and mullein. If desired, you can add copper sulfate - 25 g per 1 liter of solution.

Before frost, the tree trunk circle is insulated with straw or burlap. If a severe winter is expected, cover the ground with slate or roofing felt. If the plant is still small, you can make a “hut” from scrap materials.

Note! Strong gusts of wind can cause the cover to fly away, damaging the plants. It is recommended to secure the structure by driving several pegs into the ground and tying the shelter to them.

For those who decide to plant fruit and berry crops in Siberia, be sure to read the description of the selected variety. All you need for proper planting is a little patience and time to study the technology. And after 4 years the plum will delight you with its sweet fruits.

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Self-fertile varieties of blue plums

If the plot is small, planting several trees of the same type is impractical, so gardeners often wonder which varieties of plums are self-fertile. Blue plum varieties, like any other, rarely have this quality, and yet there are some species that can bear fruit even without pollinators.

Self-fertile varieties of blue plums

"Helena" is a German, self-fertile type of plum. The fruits ripen by the end of September. They weigh 60 g maximum, almost round, deep blue with a visible coating. The pulp is honey-like, firm, with a strong, pleasant odor. The crop is suitable for long transportation. There is immunity to fungal diseases.
“Blue Bird” is a mid-season variety. Can be grown in the Moscow region. The tree is tall with a spherical, massive crown. Cream with a bright blue skin, grows up to 45 g, oval, can be transported over different distances. The peel is covered with plaque. The pulp is almost orange, very pleasant, juicy, with a high percentage of sugar in the composition. The drupe comes off without any problems. The variety is recommended for fresh consumption and processing. It is often grown for sale. The main qualities include self-fertility and productivity. Has strong immunity.
“Egg Blue” has an early ripening period. Tree up to 6 meters, crown of medium density, wide. The first fruits are observed by the 5th year. They grow up to 35 g and are similar to an egg, which is clear from the name. The color of the peel is deep blue with a lilac tint, the coating is white. The pulp is soft, yellowish, with an abundance of juice, sugar and a small amount of acid. The drupe comes away from the pulp without any problems. Frost resistance within -35 degrees. The advantages also include self-fertility. The yield of an adult tree is approximately 10-12 kg/season.
“Prunes” is a self-fertile, winter-hardy type of plum, bred for processing into prunes. Medium late ripening. The tree grows tall, but the crown is dense. The fruits are almost round or slightly elongated, weighing 40-60 g. The peel is blue-violet, dense. The pulp is yellow, sweet. The yield is high.
"Calypso" is a Polish, self-fertile plum. The harvest is harvested at the end of July. The cream is oval and wide. The peel is deep blue, almost black with a thick coating. Weight – 30-45 g. The pulp is sunny, aromatic, with a bright, sweet taste. There is resistance to cold, sharka, rot.

Advice from experienced gardeners

To successfully grow plums in Siberia, in addition to “academic” recommendations, it is extremely useful to listen to the advice of experienced gardeners. It is better to plant plum trees in the autumn. Autumn planting will save time in the spring; do not lose a year if the seedling does not take root (you can replace it with a new one in the spring); a plum tree that has successfully survived the winter will immediately begin to “grow” without wasting energy on adaptation.

In “cold” regions, select varieties with a sparse crown for planting - they are easier to care for and easier to cover for the winter. Propagate your favorite varieties yourself using the method of plum grafting onto seedlings from Ussuri or Canadian species that have excellent winter hardiness. Prevent freezing of the ground. To do this you need: