How to properly plant petunia seedlings in open ground

Today we will tell you how to choose the best time for planting petunias for seedlings in 2022 according to the lunar calendar and regions.

Time to plant seedlings: 5 main factors

• lighting, temperature and other conditions in which the flower will grow;
• climate of the region;

• desired flowering time;
• time required for seedling growth (depending on the variety).

To calculate the date for planting seeds, you need to determine the time of planting the seedlings in a permanent place. Then subtract the time for its cultivation and germination of seedlings.

Timing of planting in open ground

Weather

To determine the timing of planting petunia outdoors, it should be taken into account that petunia is a very heat-loving plant. For growth and development, it needs not only warming the air, but also the soil. The optimal temperatures for warming up the soil will be +10-12°C, and the air temperature: during the day +18-20°C, at night not lower than +10°C.

If the seedlings are exposed to lower temperatures, they will need a long time to recover; frosts can even destroy the petunia. If plants are planted in pots or cache-pots, if there is a threat of a sharp drop in temperature, even frost, the containers should be brought into a warm room. Plants planted in a flowerbed cannot be taken home, so it is better to wait for consistently warm weather before planting them.

If the seedlings have already been planted in open ground and a sharp cold snap is expected, cover them with film or non-woven material.

Depending on the region

When transplanting petunia seedlings into open soil, it is important to take into account the climatic characteristics of the region. In each area, warm weather occurs at different times, so the time periods for planting petunias will be different.

Planting dates in different areas, taking into account average climatic temperature norms:

• Central region – third ten days of May;
• Northwestern region - late May - early June;
• Ural – end of May – beginning of June;
• Siberia - early June;
• Central Black Earth and North Caucasus regions - late April - early May;

We should not forget about the influence of lunar phases on the survival rate of petunia during transplantation. It is not recommended to plant plants on full and new moon days.

Types and varieties of petunias

Varieties of hybrid petunias are divided into two groups - multi-flowered petunias and large-flowered petunias.

Multi-flowered petunias (multiflora)

They bloom earlier than large-flowered ones, forming on their bushes a large number of flowers with a diameter of up to 5 cm, which bloom for a very long time. They are not capricious, grow in any soil, are not afraid of rain and love the sun - real garden flowers. Maybe they are not as chic as large-flowered ones, but compact bushes, completely covered with flowers of various shades, delight the gardener's eye until the very autumn cold. Popular varieties of petunia multiflorum:

In the photo: Garden petunia

• Fantasy - a series of nine hybrids, plant diameter and height 20 cm, flowers 4 cm across, colors: pink-raspberry, red with veins and white throat, violet-blue, salmon, white, red-raspberry, soft pink with cream throat, delicate salmon with dark veins, etc.;
• Mirage is a series of 13 compact hybrids, double flowers 6-9 cm in diameter in the following colors: pink-lilac with purple veins, pink with dark pink veins, pink with red-crimson veins, red with burgundy veins, white, burgundy-crimson and etc.;
• Plumcrystals - bush height is about 30 cm, diameter - 25 cm, flowers up to 7 cm. The color of the flower gradually becomes lighter over time: first pink-lilac, then light lilac, then barely lilac. The contrast to the main color is made up of violet-burgundy veins.

In the photo: Multi-flowered petunias (multiflora)

Large-flowered petunia (grandiflora)

The most common group of hybrids, numbering hundreds of varieties. It is distinguished, as is already clear from the name, by large beautiful flowers, which, however, are not as numerous as those of the small-flowered one. A significant disadvantage of this group is that its flowers are easily damaged by rain and wind, causing it to lose its decorative effect, so most often this petunia is grown in pots or containers indoors, on balconies and terraces. This group is divided into several subgroups:

• large-flowered (bush height up to 60 cm, smooth flowers 8-10 cm in diameter),
• large-flowered low (25-30 cm tall, other characteristics are the same as those of large-flowered),
• large-flowered fringed and large-flowered fringed low (bush height 65-70 cm and 25-30 cm, respectively, fringed flowers up to 12 cm in diameter),
• large-flowered superior and large-flowered superior low (bush height 50-75 cm and 30-40 cm, respectively, smooth flowers with a wide throat 10-12 cm in diameter are covered with darker veins than the background),
• large-flowered double (bush 50-60 cm high with large double flowers 10-12 cm with smooth or fringed edges). The most popular series of petunia grandiflora:

• The hit parade are fast-blooming hybrids up to 25 cm high with a wide range of colors: pink, crimson, white, with a white star on a blue background, salmon, blue-violet, etc.;
• Pikoti is a series consisting of four hybrids, the distinctive feature of which is the edge of the petals, which are heavily corrugated and surrounded by a white one and a half centimeter border. The height of the bush is 25 cm, the color of the flowers is red, purple, pink, blue-violet, crimson;
• Purple pirouette is a violet-purple terry hybrid with a white border along the fringed edge of corrugated petals, bush height 25 cm.

In the photo: Large-flowered petunia (grandiflora)

Petunia floribunda

In addition to these two most popular groups of petunias, there is also petunia floribunda, which occupies an intermediate position between the first two. The flowers of this group are almost not damaged by rain, like the flowers of small-flowered petunia, but plants of this group look impressive only in bulk, so they are grown mainly in large flower beds. Varieties:

• Sonia is the most popular variety series of 11 hybrids. Bush height - 25 cm, flower color: pink, raspberry, raspberry-pink with a white star, raspberry-burgundy with a white star, red with a white border, white, red, light purple with purple veins, etc.;
• Celebrity is a series of heat-resistant and rain-resistant hybrids presented in thirteen colors, both single-color and two- or three-color.

Garden group of petunias

balcony, or ampelous, differs from all other types in the length and flexibility of the stems, which tend to grow downward. Petunias of this group grow quickly and are resistant to bad weather. Varieties of ampelous petunia:

• Surfinia - flower diameter from 6 cm to 9 cm, with the exception of miniature varieties Pink Mini, Mini Purple, which have flowers 5.5 cm in diameter. Of all the possible shades, among the surfinias there is no petunia only orange and bright yellow;
• Tumbelina is a product of the Japanese company Suntory, a variety series with double flowers;
• Conchita is a series of hybrids that are more reminiscent in shape and size of a calibrachoa flower (mini-petunia). Small flowers 5 cm in diameter of various colors and colors.

How to determine that seedlings are ready for planting in a flowerbed

From the moment of sowing to the transplantation of a young plant into the open air, quite a long time passes - about 3 months. To ensure that the efforts spent on growing seedlings are not in vain, it is important to determine the readiness of the plant to move into open ground.

Criteria for readiness of seedlings for planting:

• the above-ground part is well developed, lateral shoots have begun to form or have already formed;
• The root system of the plant is powerful and occupies the entire container in which it was grown;
• The seedlings should begin to form buds. You can plant already flowering plants;
• hanging varieties have formed side shoots of sufficient length 15 - 25 cm.

Possible problems and their solutions

Healthy plants

We have put together a number of recommendations on how to solve problems that arise with petunia.

1 Young plants develop poorly

This is possible at temperatures lower than recommended. Petunia is a cold-resistant plant and can survive even after light frosts, but the optimal temperature for its normal growth and development should not be below 10 ° C.

2 The plant turns yellow from the base, the leaves wither

Yellowing can occur if the roots rot from excess moisture. Before watering petunia, be sure to dry the soil. If petunia is growing in a container, you need to provide drainage using perlite or expanded clay.

White coating on petunia leaves or powdery mildew

3 There is a gray coating on petunia leaves

This plaque is powdery mildew. To avoid infection, plants should be treated with drugs against this disease from the beginning of June to the end of August once every 2 weeks. When spraying with preparations, you need to try to get inside the bush - it is there, from the lower leaves, that powdery mildew begins to develop.

4 The leaves are growing well, but there are very few flowers

This situation is a consequence of excess fertilizer. To solve the problem, it is recommended not to feed the plant for one and a half months.

The beginning of summer is the time of aphid attack

5 Green insects are visible on the leaves and inside the flowers, the leaves have become sticky

These insects are green aphids. It is necessary to treat the plants with an insecticide, diluting it according to the instructions. You need to repeat the treatment once every 2 weeks until the pests completely disappear.

6 Petunia withered and drooped

This situation is possible if it is too hot and dry. It is recommended to water the plant generously, but allow the soil to dry thoroughly before the next watering.

Petunia drooped

7 Young plants are thin and elongated

Sprouts stretch out if it is too dark. It is necessary to provide petunias with full sunlight.

Attack on Petunia, similar to the Tobacco Mosaic

8 Yellow spots appeared on the leaves, and dark spots appeared on the peduncles

This is the tobacco mosaic virus. To avoid infection, you need to disinfect the container before planting petunias in it.

Preparing seedlings for planting

When planning to plant petunia seedlings in open ground, it is necessary to prepare them for outdoor conditions, that is, harden them. The hardening procedure begins 2 weeks before the planned movement of the plant into open ground or flowerpots for outdoor maintenance.

They begin to adapt the plant to the outdoor weather by taking the containers with seedlings out into the open air for just half an hour. Gradually increase the time spent on the street, bringing it to 10 - 12 hours.

The day before planting, containers with petunia seedlings are watered abundantly. This will help avoid damaging the root system of plants when transplanting into open ground.

Preparatory work

Before understanding the question of how to grow petunia from seeds, you should pay attention to the need for preparation. There are a number of tips that you should follow.

Seeds

Before sowing, purchased seeds are subjected to stratification, which consists of the following steps:

1. Wet sand is loaded into the bottom of the container.
2. Seeds are placed on top.
3. Cover with transparent film.
4. The container is placed in the refrigerator for 2 months.
5. If it dries out, the sand is periodically moistened.

Store-bought material does not undergo the procedure. But in this case, the seeds are checked for germination. To do this, moisten gauze with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and wrap the seeds in it. High-grade material will hatch after 7 days.

The choice of soil should be made taking into account the needs of the flower.

Priming

In addition to the seeds, soil is prepared for sowing. Gardeners believe that any composition will do. But petunia grows best in loose, moist and nutritious soil, neutral or slightly acidic.

The ideal option is sandy-clayey, loamy or sandy-loamy soil. Such land is sold or prepared independently.

Soil mixture options:

• Mix sand, turf soil, and humus in equal volumes. Add 2 parts of peat, ½ part of soil, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium fertilizer, a handful of perlite.
• Three parts clay plus seven parts peat.
• Sand, loam, peat in a ratio of 1:2:1.
• Equal volumes of peat and loam (or perlite).

After thorough mixing, the soil mixture is sifted through a sieve twice, freeing it from debris and stones.

24 hours before sowing, they are disinfected by watering them with a concentrated solution of manganese, or heating them in the oven for 1 hour.

Container for sowing

The following container options are used:

• plastic containers and pots, easy to carry;
• cassettes with small sections (diameter 10 cm);
• peat tablets, good quality and practical (4.5 cm in diameter);
• plastic cups for sour cream, yogurt, and other products.

There are no special instructions for choosing containers
. The main thing for containers is their disinfection before planting with a solution of manganese or boiling water, the presence of drainage holes in the base. And a lid is desirable to obtain a greenhouse effect.

The containers are filled with soil, leaving 2 cm to the edges. The thickness of the soil is at least 6 cm. A day before sowing, it is watered abundantly so that the substrate is completely saturated with moisture.

What flowers can be planted next to?

Petunia, being an ideal flower for creating a variety of compositions, has long and irrevocably won the love of gardeners. It looks beautiful in mono plantings, but also looks great and gets along well with most garden flowers, both perennial and annual.

Petunia blooms for 3–4 months, so when combined with other long-flowering plants, you can easily create beautiful, expressive flowerpots and spectacular flower beds, allowing you to admire picturesque compositions all summer long. You can combine bush hanging and cascading varieties.

Of the plants that are similar in terms of flowering time, those that are best combined with petunia are those loved by gardeners: begonia, pelargonium, viola, verbena, ageratum, marigolds, levy, snapdragons, calendula. But no less interesting compositions can be created by combining petunia with such infrequently found plants as bidens, lobelia, allisum, bacopa.

Petunia also looks great with bulbous plants blooming in May and June: tulips, daffodils, hyacinths.

The beauty of petunia flowers is perfectly emphasized by plants of unusual colors with decorative leaf shapes: silver cineraria, variegated coleus, fern, hosta, striped chlorophytum.

Cineraria hybrid

Ornamental grasses look unusual and impressive with petunia: pennisetum, millet pogonaterum, sedge, and ovate lagurus.

Petunia is a rare flower that grows beautifully with a variety of neighbors without oppressing them or suffering itself. Design options for flowerpots and flower beds are limited only by the imagination of the owners of country houses and plots.

Planting petunia seeds for seedlings

Planting petunia seeds for early flowering should begin in mid-February. A prerequisite for growing seedlings is the availability of the required amount of light. If this component is not enough in the room where you plan to grow petunia, then it is advisable to use special lamps.

The plant begins to bloom 65–92 days after sowing the seeds. It depends on the type of petunia. The larger the flowers of a plant, the longer it takes to bloom.

Before planting petunia seeds you should prepare:

• containers for planting with drainage holes;
• soil;
• expanded clay;
• sprayer with water;
• covering material (it is advisable to use non-woven material, for example, spunbond, which allows the plant to breathe);
• selected seeds.

At the first stage, we prepare containers for seedlings:

• At the bottom of the cup, with drainage holes prepared in advance, pour a layer of expanded clay approximately 1 cm high;
• lay out and lightly compact the soil mixture. It is necessary to leave a distance of 3 - 3.5 cm to the edge of the container.
• we moisten the soil.

Let's start planting petunias. Since the seeds of the plant are quite small, when planting you can use a mixture of seeds and sand. This will allow the seeds to be placed more evenly in the pot. You can use coated petunia seeds, but their cost is much higher than regular ones. Sprinkling petunia seeds with soil is not recommended. It is best to lightly press them until they are in full contact with the soil.

After planting petunias, the boxes should be covered with covering material. Instead of fabric, you can use glass or polyethylene. In this case, the plants will have to be forced to ventilate.

Under favorable conditions (ambient temperature 24ºС and humidity 98%), seeds germinate in 7–9 days.

There is a simpler, but more expensive method of obtaining plant seedlings - planting petunia in peat tablets. For this:

• purchased peat tablets are poured with warm water and waited for it to swell and cool;
• use tweezers to place petunia seeds in the central hole;
• Water moderately.

Plants are planted in pots or in the ground along with tablets. Damage to the root system is completely eliminated. For beginning gardeners, this method of growing flower seedlings is most preferable.

Planting ampelous petunia is done in the same ways as bush petunia.

Site selection and soil preparation

For long and abundant flowering of petunias, not only proper, good care is important, but the quality of the soil and the choice of location for the plants.

Open ground

When planting petunias in open ground, it is important to choose a place protected from the wind, well lit, but without excessive sun. Although petunia loves the sun, the increased intensity of ultraviolet rays leads to discoloration of the petals and drying out of the top layer of the earth.

When planted on loose, fertile soils with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction, petunia responds with rapid and lush growth.

The beauty of petunia flowering directly depends on the quality of the soil, so you should take responsibility for its preparation. The soil in the flower bed must be dug up to a depth of 15 cm. During digging, add fertilizer at the rate of 1 square meter. m of land: 1 bucket of compost or humus, 0.5 buckets of sand, 0.5 liters of wood ash, 50 - 60 grams of nitroammophoska. Depending on the degree of acidification of the soil, add 1 - 1.5 cups of dolomite flour.

Vases, flowerpots

The soil for growing petunias in pots or flowerpots has higher requirements than the soil in a flower bed. Therefore, it is easier and more convenient to buy special soil for petunias in a specialized store.

But if you wish, you can prepare the soil mixture yourself. Soil for petunias is prepared from humus, peat, turf soil, 1 part each and 2 parts leaf soil.

To increase the air and water permeability of the soil in pots and flowerpots, plant hydrogel is added to the soil. The gel balls are first filled with water and then mixed with soil (for 1 part of gel - 5 parts of soil mixture).

How to choose soil for seedlings?

How to choose soil for petunias.

For novice gardeners, it will be extremely difficult to independently prepare the correct soil mixture and soil for petunias.

Therefore, it is best to purchase the mixture ready-made:

• Stender M520.
• Greenworld.

These substrates have proven themselves to be excellent. If it is not possible to purchase good ready-made soil, you can prepare it yourself.

Soil preparation.

Note. When preparing the mixture, you must remember the acidity (no more than 5/5-5/6).

The most optimal option in terms of weight:

• Potassium – 13.
• Calcium – 3.
• Nitrogen – 13.
• Phosphorus – 2.

Note. An excellent base is obtained from ready-made soil made from peat.

It should be borne in mind that ordinary open ground is not suitable for planting these plants, so it is recommended to mix them with a peat base and baking powder.

Planting methods and scheme - step-by-step instructions

Planting petunias outdoors is a simple procedure, but requires the consistent implementation of certain actions.

To the flowerbed

Technology for planting petunias in a flower bed.

1. At least 2 hours before, or better yet 24 hours before, thoroughly water the container with petunia seedlings. This is necessary to prevent injury to the roots.
2. Outline a planting scheme for the future location of the plants. The distance between plants should be at least 20–40 cm.
3. In the designated places, prepare holes corresponding to the height of the seedling containers.
4. Water the prepared depressions.
5. Carefully move the seedlings from the containers into the prepared holes, sprinkle with soil and lightly compact. Do not bury the root collar.
6. Water generously.
7. Mulch (cover the surface of the earth) the soil around the plants to protect them from drying out. As mulching material, you can use mown grass (hay), pine needles, sawdust, tree bark, moss, wood chips, and peat.

Petunia is planted in open soil in the evening or in cloudy weather. The absence of direct sunlight contributes to the rapid adaptation of young plants to new conditions.

In flower pots and flowerpots

This planting is very convenient for cascading and hanging varieties. And when placing petunias in flowerpots, you can save space on the site and at the same time beautifully decorate the entrance to the house.

Stages of planting in outdoor flowerpots and flowerpots.

1. Selection of capacity. The volume of the pot (flowerpot) for ampelous and cascading petunias must be at least 5 liters per plant; for bush plants - 3 l. Petunia is a very freedom-loving plant and grows well, so a smaller container volume can lead to slower growth and poor flowering.
2. Check for drainage holes in the container; if there are none, be sure to make them.
3. Be sure to pour drainage material (vermiculite, perlite, fine expanded clay) onto the bottom in a layer of 2–3 cm.
4. Fill the flowerpots (pots) with a soil mixture, you can use one similar to the one in which the seedlings were grown.
5. Depending on the volume of containers prepared for the future growth and flowering of petunia, prepare the required number of holes.
6. Pour water into the recesses.
7. In advance (more than 2 hours before planting), carefully remove the abundantly moistened seedlings from the cups and transfer them to the prepared holes.
8. Sprinkle young seedlings with soil mixture and compact them on all sides, while the root collar should remain in contact with the soil.
9. Water the planted plants.
10. Mulch the soil in the pot with sawdust, wood chips or peat.

Petunia after flowering

If you really want to keep a particularly attractive faded petunia at home, dig it up in October, trim the stems, plant it in a pot and place it in a cool room where it will rest while you keep the soil moderately moist with occasional watering. In February, move the “sleeping beauty” to a bright and warm windowsill and resume regular watering. When the young shoots have 2-3 pairs of leaves, they are cut off with a “heel”, planted in a flowerpot with fertile soil, on which a layer of sand is poured, the flowerpot is covered with film or glass, placed in light shade and cared for by watering, ventilating and spraying as necessary for three weeks until the shoots grow roots. Then the seedlings are planted in cups and grown until it is time to plant them in the ground.

In the photo: Petunias in a flowerbed

If you don’t want this hassle and plan to buy and sow new seeds in the spring, treat petunia as you would an annual plant: remove the remaining bushes from the area and dig up the area.

Caring for seedlings after planting

The attractiveness and abundance of flowering depend on the quality of petunia care. The care process is simple and includes standard gardening activities.

Watering

Petunia is a fairly moisture-loving plant, but does not tolerate waterlogging. It should be watered not often (but at least twice a week), but quite abundantly, moistening the entire root zone.

In hot sunny weather, watering is done daily. In rainy weather, petunias are not watered. Flowerpots or flowerpots are moved under a canopy. Plants growing in an open-air flower bed are helped by loosening the soil, thereby increasing its breathability. Petunia is watered with settled, warm (heated by the sun) water, early in the morning or in the evening.

Watering during the day in sunny weather is strictly prohibited; this leads to leaf burns, root rot and plant death.

In warm, dry weather in the evening, you can spray the plant with water from a spray bottle. Such procedures stimulate the growth and flowering of the plant.

Top dressing

Petunia loves feeding very much and responds to it with gratitude. For the growth and development of large, long-flowering bushes, fertilizers are required in the soil.

The first feeding is carried out 7 - 10 days after transplanting the plant to its permanent location. During this period, petunia can be fed with potassium monophosphate (1 tsp per 10 liters of water). Agricola is used to increase green mass, and Kemira Lux is used to improve flowering in strict accordance with the manufacturers' recommendations.

Feeding petunias is carried out regularly at intervals of 1 - 2 weeks. In order not to get confused in alternating different fertilizers, it is convenient to use complex nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium flower fertilizer Fertik (at the rate of 1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

To increase efficiency, it is important to alternate root (application into the soil) and foliar (spraying on leaves and stems) fertilizing.

For foliar fertilizing, the concentration of fertilizers is 1.5 - 2 times less than for root fertilizing.

The popularity of beautiful flowers has prompted fertilizer manufacturers to create complex formulations designed specifically for petunias. These fertilizers can be found in brands such as Mister Tsvet, Agricola, Bona Forte, Planta.

For more details, see the article: “How to feed petunias for growth and flowering.”

Topping

Pinching (removing the upper part of the shoot) of petunias is carried out in order to increase the number of side shoots, which leads to more flower formation. The procedure is carried out on both bush and hanging varieties.

Pinching order.

• The operation of pinching the main stem is carried out when growing seedlings before planting them in open ground.
• After 1 month, pinch out the side shoots, reaching a length of 8–9 cm.
• New, formed branches, when growing and excessively elongating, are shortened every 20 to 30 days.

Pinching technology

• Pinching is performed only on healthy plants.
• The procedure is carried out by pinching with fingers, or cutting with small sharp scissors. Thick stems are trimmed with pruning shears.
• When using pruners or scissors, the stem is cut at an angle of 45 degrees.
• Pinching of both the main stem and lateral shoots is carried out after 4–5 internodes.
• When pinching, it is recommended to remove no more than 1/5 of the green mass.
• Pinching is carried out in dry and warm weather.

Also read: “How to pinch petunia correctly.”

Disease Prevention

Preventing the development of diseases is an important point in caring for petunia, because it is easier to prevent a disease than to treat it.

Before planting, the soil for growing petunias must be disinfected with a solution of foundationazole (1 g per 1 liter of water).

Factors leading to the development of diseases should be avoided:

• thickened planting;
• shaded areas;
• excessive moisture;
• overdose of nitrogenous fertilizers.

To repel pests, plants are sprayed every 10-14 days with a daily infusion of garlic (30 g per 1 liter of water) or a mustard solution (1 tablespoon of dry mustard is poured into 5 liters of hot water and left to cool).

Lunar calendar for planting petunias in 2022

*Recommendations are given in accordance with the lunar calendar from the magazine “100 Tips for a Summer Resident”

When to plant petunia seedlings in 2022 according to the lunar calendar

Flowers sown these days will sprout faster and more quickly.

Favorable days for cuttings from queen cells:

• January – 22-24
• February – 1-3, 10-18
• March 1 – 4 – cuttings of climbing and hanging petunias
• March: 12-14

In 2022, unfavorable days fall on the following dates:

• January – 2, 3, 17, 18
• February – 1, 2, 16, 28
• March – 1, 2, 18, 27, 28
• April – 1, 2, 16, 23
• May – 1, 16, 30
• June -14, 18, 29
• July – 13, 14, 28, 29
• August – 11, 12, 27-28
• September: 9-10, 26, 27
• October: 9, 10, 25, 26
• November: 1, 2, 7-9, 24, 25, 28, 29
• December: 7-9, 23-25

In addition to the lunar calendar, there are folk signs associated with sowing plants. For example, in Rus' they tried to time sowing to coincide with the “women’s” days of the week - Wednesday and Friday. On Saturday the earth was not touched; it was believed that it rested on that day.

Adviсe

• When buying ready-made seedlings, choose plants that do not have dry leaves that have begun to turn yellow. Inspect the petunia from all sides; there may be harmful insects in the soil and on the underside of the leaves. Also pay attention to soil moisture. Drying out or excess moisture can subsequently affect the health of the plant.
• Cuttings of the plant can be used for planting; they produce roots quite quickly, but bloom later than the mother plant.
• In rainy weather, it is necessary to fertilize ground petunias more often, as fertilizers are washed out of the soil.
• Drying flowers must be removed regularly so that the plant does not waste energy on producing seeds and produces a large number of inflorescences.

All work carried out on a suburban site for the first time always seems difficult. But even a beginner in floriculture can handle the process of replanting petunias into soil or flowerpots. This culture is quite “friendly” towards other colors, which makes it possible to create beautiful compositions. And the beauty of this plant is simply mesmerizing and can transform any garden.

Propagation of petunia from cuttings

Rooted cuttings

This method is usually used for propagating double large-flowered varieties. Cuttings are taken from healthy, developed mother plants, which are kept in winter in a bright, well-ventilated, cool room at a temperature of 10-12 °C. Cut cuttings 6-8 cm long, leaving 2 to 4 leaves.

When propagated by seeds of varieties with double flowers, only 40-50% of the “daughter” plants turn out to be double. That is why the cutting method is used to propagate such petunias.

Cuttings are planted in December-January in pots or picking boxes, which need to be filled with sand or a mixture of sand and peat. They take root at a temperature of 18-20 °C. As they grow, rooted cuttings are transferred to larger pots. Such plants bloom in 4-5 months.

Picking up seedlings

Regardless of what methods were chosen for planting petunias for seedlings, when the time comes, the plant requires picking. Professionals provide step-by-step instructions for this process. If you do not pick on time, then growing petunia for seedlings at home will be in jeopardy: the roots will begin to dry out and growth will slow down.

Rules and tips:

1. Petunia is planted in separate pots or in specialized cassettes.
2. Planting is done in large containers to give the plants room to develop. Root shoots that are too large need to be removed by half.
3. The temperature regime for plants changes. It is advisable to take them out onto the balcony to strengthen them and prevent them from being pulled out.

The optimal temperature for petunia seedlings at this stage is 16-18 degrees. At home, on the balcony, the young plants will get stronger and will be ready to be transferred to the ground.

How to breed petunias

The most reliable and simplest way to propagate petunias is cuttings. Flowers planted this way bloom a couple of weeks earlier. In addition, some varieties lose their characteristic characteristics when grown from seeds. First of all, this applies to large-flowered, ampelous and terry species.

But still, most gardeners prefer growing flowers from seeds - both purchased and collected independently. In cold climates, planting seeds directly into the ground is undesirable; You should start growing petunias from seedlings. In this case, the flowers will be stronger and brighter.

Feeding seedlings for growth

Planting petunias for seedlings includes feeding. The first time it is carried out a week after the pick. Then the seedlings of petunia flowers already have 3-4 leaves. At the initial stage, the plant needs nitrogen, which is contained in nitrophoska and urea. Ten grams of fertilizer should be diluted in a bucket of water. For petunia seedlings, a teaspoon per glass of plants is enough.

The second feeding is carried out only a week later. Two tablespoons of ash are diluted in a liter of water and left overnight. Any fertilizing is carried out at the root. It is necessary to ensure that the solution does not fall on the leaves and does not burn them. How to properly care for petunia seedlings - feed and moisten the soil in time.

Temperature and backlight

To obtain friendly shoots, the container is placed in a warm place where the temperature does not exceed 20-25ºC.

It is not necessary to illuminate the seedlings before the seeds germinate. But with the emergence of seedlings, in order to avoid stretching the seedlings, it is necessary to lower the air temperature to 18-20 ºС and carry out artificial additional lighting. It is carried out for 1-2 weeks after emergence of seedlings around the clock. Use ordinary fluorescent lamps at the rate of 2 lamps of 30 W per 0.7 sq. m of illuminated surface.

After the 2nd pick, additional illumination is not carried out. And the optimal temperature should be +20 ºС during the day, 16 ºС at night

Picking

As the plant grows, it begins to shade each other. At this time, it is necessary to carry out the first picking into the boxes, expanding the space of each sprout. If sowing was carried out in cassettes, they make do with one pick. If we plant in boxes, the distance between plants should be about 5 cm in a row and the same between rows.

In boxes, plants develop well up to a certain point, until they begin to interfere with each other. How long it takes for such development to occur depends on temperature and light. It is important not to overcrowd the plant. This can lead to stretching and loss of seedling quality. Therefore, they carry out the 2nd picking, already in seedling glasses or “diapers”. In this case, it is allowed to deepen the seedlings to seven-lobed leaves.

Is it possible to sow seeds directly?

The germination of seeds is proven by the fact that the flower beds where petunias bloomed last year and which you did not have time to dig up in the spring are covered in June with rare, but still sprouts of these flowers.

Here's what experienced flower growers told me:

• The soil needs to be dug up so that it is loosened. Of course, give fertilizer too.
• The seeds cannot be buried; they are simply scattered on the ground. Do not cover them with soil at all (even more so, do not sprinkle or compact them).

Such a plant will bloom 2-3 weeks later than the seedling. But at the end of June you will already see the beautiful fruits of your hands.

By the way, such seeds are sown in pots earlier than in open ground. Moreover, you can also decorate a planted or sown flower like this: This video can remind you of how to grow petunia seedlings:

How to care

Petunias love sunny areas. The soil needs to be prepared in advance: dig it up and add humus. Petunias love loose and well-drained soil. Plants need to be fed frequently:

• a few weeks after picking, nitrogen fertilizers are applied;
• during the formation of buds - potassium and phosphorus;
• For foliar treatment, fertilizing with microelements is used.

When fertilizing the soil for petunias, never use fresh manure.

Breeding secrets

Hybrid varieties of petunias, when following basic care rules, give excellent results. But there are several tips for planting and care that are useful for all lovers of these plants to know:

If the weather permits, petunia can be planted in the ground without seedlings. The journey from seeds to flowering plants will take about a month. Petunias tolerate frosts and cold snaps more easily than rain. Strong jets can damage petunia petals and ruin the appearance of the plant.

Watering should also be done very carefully - at the root. If you want to make the plant more bushy, you need to pinch the top of the seedling immediately after the third true leaf appears.

• If the leaves of a petunia turn yellow, this means a lack of iron. To restore its balance, you will need 3-4 treatments of the plant with iron chelate.
• If you plant petunias not in open ground, but in outdoor pots, the flowers are easier to protect from rain and wind, and can also be used to decorate your home during the holidays.

Petunia is a very picturesque and at the same time unpretentious flower. Having mastered the simple care of this plant, you can enjoy the flowering of strong and healthy plants within 4-5 months.