Salvia: growing seedlings from seeds, planting and garden care


Author: Tamara Altova. 01 September 2018

Category: Garden plants.

Sage, or Salvia (lat. Salvia) is a genus of herbaceous perennials and shrubs of the Lamiaceae family, common in the nature of the New and Old Worlds. The name of the genus comes from the word salvus, which means “to be healthy.” According to The Plant List from 2013, there are 986 species in the genus. The salvia flower has been known since ancient times for its medicinal properties, but some species not only bring benefits, but can also provide aesthetic pleasure, since they are highly decorative. Those species of the genus that are grown for medicinal purposes are usually called sage among gardeners, and plants that are primarily valuable for their decorative qualities are called salvia.

Salvia (sage) flowers - description

The tetrahedral, erect or ascending, simple or branched stems of salvia can reach a height of 120 cm. The opposite leaves, located on long petioles, can be entire or pinnately dissected. Sage leaves are dark green on the upper side and lighter green below. Salvia flowers with a two-lipped corolla, the color of which varies from white to purple, form complex whorls of spike-shaped or paniculate inflorescences. The upper lip of the flowers is straight or crescent-shaped or helmet-shaped, the lower lip consists of three lobes, the middle of which is usually much larger than the lateral ones. The salvia fruit is formed from four nuts filled with seeds.

Description of Salvia shiny

The genus Salvia or sage gets its name from the Latin "salvare", which literally means "to save, to protect." But only some species that live in forests and meadows are endowed with medicinal properties. Salvia sparkling or shiny, growing in flower beds, does not contain any medicinal substances, and owes its popularity to its beautiful appearance. Decorative species were brought to Europe back in the 18th century and they are still in great demand among gardeners.

It’s simply impossible to pass by the Salvia shiny and not pay attention to it. A tall flower resembling a pyramid stands out as a bright spot among other plants. Although it is a perennial, in countries with a temperate continental climate it is cultivated for one season, since the sparkling salvia comes from warm regions and is simply not able to withstand a harsh winter.

  1. The height of the plant is 25-80 cm. At the same time, almost half is occupied by the flower spikelet.
  2. The stem is erect, the leaves are entire. Located on petioles opposite each other.
  3. By nature it is a perennial, but in mid-latitudes it is grown as an annual plant.
  4. Salvia has a long growing season - about 100-120 days.
  5. The flowers are tube-shaped, two-lipped, collected in spike-shaped inflorescences, pyramid-shaped, which can reach a height of 20 cm.
  6. Thanks to the work of breeders, the color of sparkling salvia flowers can be orange, red, salmon, burgundy, dark purple, pink and white.
  7. Flowering begins in June and ends after frost.
  8. The salvia fruit consists of four nuts.
  9. The seeds are suitable for sowing a month after the flowers open. Able to remain viable for up to 5 years.

Growing salvia from seeds

Sowing salvia for seedlings

In our conditions, annual salvia is grown by seed, both seedlings and non-seedlings. In regions with a warm and mild climate, the seeds are sown in the ground in the spring or before winter, and in areas with cold winters and late spring, salvia is grown through seedlings, although in the southern regions the seedless method allows you to see the flowering of sage much earlier than when sowing seeds directly in priming. When to plant salvia seeds for seedlings? The best time is the end of February or the beginning of March.

Sow salvia seeds in a box with light seedling substrate, which can be purchased at a garden pavilion or in a specialty store. First, a layer of expanded clay is placed on the bottom of the box, washed with a strong solution of potassium permanganate, then the container is filled with soil, two weeks before, a spilled fungicide solution or a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate. There should be at least 2 cm from the surface of the substrate to the edge of the box walls. The soil is well moistened, after which the box is covered with glass or film and allowed to stand until the morning. Salvia seeds mixed with coarse sand are evenly distributed over the surface of the substrate, lightly pressed against it, sprayed with a spray bottle, covered with glass or film and kept at a temperature of 20-25 ºC until germination.

Caring for salvia seedlings

The seeds will begin to germinate on the 7-10th day, and as soon as the first shoots appear, the crops are moved to the lightest windowsill. For normal development, salvia flower seedlings require a 12-hour daylight hours, and if there is insufficient lighting, install an artificial light source above the box at a height of 20-25 cm - a gel lamp, LED or phytolamp.

Growing salvia during the seedling period requires regular watering and two pickings. When watering the substrate, moderation should be observed, since waterlogging can cause rotting of the base of the seedling stem, or black leg. If you find this problem, immediately remove the glass, stop watering for a while and, after removing the already laid seedlings, sprinkle the surface of the substrate with sand or sifted ash. If the soil becomes soggy, it is better to transplant the seedlings into a new substrate.

The first time salvia is picked is at the stage of development of two true leaves. The seedlings are transplanted into separate cups filled with the same seedling substrate in which the sowing was carried out. After picking, the seedlings are shaded from the sun for 2-3 days. When they develop three pairs of leaves, the tops of the seedlings are pinched for better tillering. In order for the seedlings to grow strong, they are planted a second time in pots with a diameter of 9 cm. Two weeks before transplanting to the flowerbed, the seedlings are subjected to hardening procedures: they are taken out into the open air every day, providing protection from drafts and gradually increasing the duration of the sessions. By the end of the two-week period, salvia from seeds should fully adapt to the environment in which it will soon find itself.

When and how to plant salvia seedlings (photo)

An elegant subshrub known since the time of Hippocrates, sage is rightfully considered one of the most popular garden plants. In addition to medicinal varieties that are widely used in medicine, there are also purely decorative varieties. Curiously, the second name of the plant comes from the Latin “salvia” - “to be healthy.”

When planning to grow sage in your garden, even an experienced gardener is faced with a difficult choice from many varieties with different flower colors. No wonder, because today about seven hundred plant species are known. Some of them are low-growing and frost-resistant subshrubs, specially bred for planting in mid-latitudes. They tolerate partial shade or light frosts well. Some of them can even be sown in open ground before winter. Others, on the contrary, love only open sun and are calm about drought. But most types of sage are heat-loving and also absolutely cannot tolerate stagnant moisture in the soil.

Reproduction methods

There are several ways to obtain new plants:

  • seeds;
  • layering;
  • cuttings;
  • dividing the bush.

Material selection

For annual and biennial sage varieties, the first method is most often used. Although it is considered long-lasting, it gives the best results. You can use your own seed material for sowing.

Deadlines

The seeds are sown very early, in February or late March. This is explained by the fact that the plant develops slowly and almost five months pass from planting to flowering.

Preparing the container and soil

You can use a shallow container for flower seedlings, but it must have a tray. The soil is prepared in advance. To do this, the box is first filled to a third of its height with drainage. It may consist, for example, of expanded clay and sand. Then pour in light soil, which is pre-sifted.

Experienced gardeners recommend watering the soil and letting it sit under the film for half an hour. If the land is not purchased, then it is useful to leave it for four to seven days to remove sprouted weeds.

Sowing rules

The seeds of the plant are tiny. Therefore, to ensure uniform sowing, they are mixed with clean sand. The resulting mixture is carefully distributed over the surface of the moistened soil, and then sprinkled with a thin layer and sprayed with water. Some manufacturers sell seeds in the form of granules to increase the chances of germination. Then planting is easier, but germination time increases by several days.

We are waiting for the first shoots

To maintain the temperature and humidity level necessary for germination, the container is covered with polyethylene or glass and placed on a sunny windowsill. To prevent the soil from drying out, pour water into the pan for an hour or two. Thanks to drainage, the soil will take exactly as much moisture as required. And the remains will need to be drained.

Sprout care

The first shoots appear, as a rule, at the end of the second week. The film is removed from the container. Now it is very important to provide the proper amount of light and air. Because their deficiency leads to stretching and weakening of plants. When the weather is cloudy or it is not possible to place the box on an unshaded window, it is useful to stock up on an additional light source.

At night, it is recommended to provide slight cooling, but not a draft. This can be done by removing the box from the windowsill or covering the battery with a damp towel. If it is still not possible to avoid stretching, the borings are densely sprinkled with earth.

First and subsequent picks

With the appearance of the third true leaf, it is necessary to make the first pick. If there are few plants, then you can do this immediately in separate cups and pots. Then a second transplant may not be necessary. When there are a lot of seedlings, the young ones are transplanted into a common container. But the method of action is the same. The selected plant is carefully removed from the old soil and placed in new soil up to the very cotyledon leaves.

For the development of the root system, the distance between the children must be at least five centimeters. The deadline for planting in separate containers with a diameter of at least ten centimeters is considered to be a month after the appearance of the first shoots. Then, if necessary, a second pick is made.

Forming a bush

With the appearance of the fourth pair of true leaves, it is time to take care of the shape of the future bush. To provoke the appearance and development of lateral branches, the central stem of the sprout is pinched. From now on, it is important to ensure that all plants have enough sunlight. Then they will be of the correct shape.

It will be useful to read:

Feeding and hardening

Since the plant is replanted once or twice in the spring, constant feeding, as a rule, is not required. An exception may be the case when the soil for seedlings is poor in mineral elements and the foliage has a faded appearance. For feeding, complex fertilizers are used in very low concentrations.

Disembarkation. We select the time, place and prepare the ground

When the threat of frost on the soil has passed (for the middle zone this is the beginning of June, and in the south it is the end of April or May), the seedlings can be planted in the open air. But first you need to choose a place and prepare the ground.

Like any heat-loving plant, sage thrives in open, sunny areas. But he doesn’t like winds. Therefore, the ideal place would be along the fence or against the wall of the house. If the place is not on a hill and there is no natural drainage system, then drainage must be provided. To do this, sand and peat are added to the soil. Flowers are undemanding to the soil, so it should be fed with organic matter only at the time of planting. The rest of the time you just need to make sure that the plant has enough water.

The distance between the bushes depends on the size and type of future sage. Specimens growing above one and a half meters require correspondingly more freedom for branches and roots. The rest get along well, planted 20-30 cm apart.

The process of planting a permanent place is simple. First, a couple of tablespoons of ash and superphosphate fertilizers are poured into a deep hole along with organic matter. Then the plant is carefully placed there along with a lump of earth and covered tightly with soil. Water for irrigation is used that has been settled and heated, since young seedlings are very afraid of the cold. In order for salvia to better survive its first days in the wild, planting should be done in calm and cloudy weather.

Caution: diseases and pests

It is believed that sage is practically not susceptible to fungal diseases. However, it should be recalled that it is an excess of moisture in the soil that can lead to rotting.

But harmful insects love this plant. For example, thrips, nectar lovers. A characteristic feature that allows one to determine the presence of this pest is brown dots on the edges of faded leaves, as well as deformation of flowers (photo).

Thrips

In addition, aphids, spider mites or whiteflies are not averse to eating sage greens with flower nectar. The latter is especially dangerous because it easily spreads to nearby crops. If the bush is not heavily infected, you can try to protect it using traditional methods. For example, spray with hot pepper tincture. But most often, insecticides are used to protect the garden from the spread of infection. Slugs and garden snails love the delicate greenery of sage. These pests can be collected by hand or metaldehyde can be sprinkled near plants.

It will be useful to read:

Useful tips

  • For sage to bloom profusely, the soil should not be oversaturated with organic matter.
  • Fertilizing with low concentration mineral fertilizers is carried out a week after planting, as well as before flowering.
  • Timely weeding will save low-growing varieties from shading.
  • Loosening the soil in the tree trunk circles will help evaporate excess moisture, as well as saturate the roots with oxygen.
  • Many salvias can grow either alone or in a common flower bed. However, tall varieties with highly developed bushiness can literally kill other plants.
  • In areas in the middle zone, annual varieties of sage are most often found. However, perennials are also very common in the south.
  • Some types of salvia are strictly prohibited from growing at home. This is due to the fact that the substance obtained from the leaves is a strong hallucinogen.

Planting salvia in open ground

When to plant salvia in the ground

Salvia seedlings are planted in open ground in early June, when warm summer weather sets in. Almost all types of salvia have the advantage of being drought-resistant and grow well in full sun. The only exception is salvia adhesive, which prefers partial shade and rich, moist, nutritious soil, while all other species grow better on dry, lime-rich, not too light, but at the same time permeable soils.

How to plant salvia

Before planting salvia, the area is dug up and leveled. Holes with a volume of one and a half times larger than the root system of seedlings with an earthen ball are placed at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other. Seedlings are transferred from pots to holes, placed in the center, and then the remaining space of the hole is filled with soil. After planting, the surface of the area is compacted and each seedling is watered abundantly at the root. Planting is carried out on a cloudy day, but if the weather is clear, then it is better to plant the seedlings in the flower garden after sunset.

Salvia in the flowerbed and flower beds - photo

Salvia is a very popular flower. It is most often planted in flower beds and flower beds. Salvia looks good in flowerpots or garden containers, which can be placed on balconies and well-lit garden areas. Bright salvia goes well with many types of ornamental plants: lobelia, marigolds, petunia, zinnia, ageratum, alyssum, silver cineraria.


Salvia combined with lobelia


Salvia with marigolds


Perennial Salvia


Salvia with cineraria


Salvia brillianti


Salvia horminum

Caring for salvia in the garden

How to care for salvia

Planting salvia and caring for this crop in the open ground is work that even a novice gardener can handle. You will need to occasionally water the sage, apply fertilizer, loosen the soil in the area, remove weeds and wilted flowers. With insufficient or improper care, it may be necessary to protect the plant from diseases or pests.

Watering and feeding salvia

Salvia does not require regular watering, and in a season with normal amounts and frequency of precipitation, it requires almost no additional soil moisture, since one of the main characteristics of this crop is drought resistance. But sometimes in the summer there is abnormally hot and dry weather, and if this period drags on, the salvia will need to be watered with water heated in the sun in the evenings. The day after watering or rain, you need to carefully loosen the soil in the area and remove weeds.

As for fertilizing, they are applied twice: during the seedling period between the first and second picking and after planting in the ground, when the plant begins to form buds. Mineral complexes are used as fertilizers, and the concentration of the solution in the first fertilizing should be two times weaker than suggested in the instructions.

Salvia after flowering

Salvia blooms in June and fades with the first frost, although each species has its own flowering time. When the plant loses its decorative appearance, dispose of the bushes and dig up the soil in the area to the depth of a spade bayonet. Rare in our latitudes, perennial salvias are cut almost to the ground, and mulched on top for the winter with a layer of garden compost, under which the plant roots can easily overwinter. Young plants are additionally covered with dry leaves or spruce branches.

How to properly care for salvia in summer


Salvia is very easy to care for. Simple standard procedures include watering, weeding, mulching, loosening, and fertilizing.

What to feed for abundant flowering

In order for salvia to delight with an abundance of color, it needs proper nutrition. In the flowerbed, flowers are fertilized 5-7 days after planting. The menu offers her growth stimulants and minerals. As soon as the plant begins to form buds, the next feeding is carried out.

Salvia will bloom abundantly if it manages to develop its above-ground part well. Like nothing else, this is facilitated by nitrogen, found in proper quantities in bird droppings, humus, and manure.

The infusion of such organic matter should be poured over the transplanted salvias, and in a very short time they will become much healthier. Flowering is also promoted by potassium, which helps absorb water and phosphorus, which ensures normal development.


Salvia Cassiopeia

Some flower growers who do not have the proper experience and are poorly versed in various fertilizers can use tips from manufacturers. Many nutritional compositions speak for themselves: Ovary, Bud, and so on.

Experienced flower growers prefer traditional methods to all factory-made fertilizers. To prolong and enhance flowering, they use an ash solution. Also pour boiling water over the skin of bananas and peel potatoes for a week.

Before the buds open, it is useful for salvia to water it with water infused with egg shells.

Reproduction methods

Salvia reproduces in several ways. Perennial varieties can be divided from the rhizome, propagated by cuttings, and sown by seeds. But one-year-olds and biennials are propagated exclusively by seeds: direct sowing and through seedlings.

Seeds are sown in spring and autumn, before winter. However, there are varieties that can only be grown using seedlings. These are all varieties belonging to the type of salvia sparkling.

When and how to collect your seeds

High-quality material will be obtained exclusively from varietal flowers. Fading inflorescences are cut and dried. Do this not in the sun. The inflorescences are laid out under a canopy in the fresh air or in a ventilated room. You can collect a lot of seeds from dried seed pods.

Pests and diseases of salvia

Salvia is extremely resistant to fungal diseases, but it is useless to fight viral or bacterial diseases; you just need to remove the affected plants from the area and prevent the development of these infections using agrotechnical and preventive methods. As for pests, salvia can suffer from aphids, whiteflies and spider mites, especially if the flower garden is located close to vegetable beds. Plants are treated with insecticidal preparations against aphids and whiteflies, and acaricides are used to get rid of spider mites.

Salvia leaves can be damaged by slugs and snails. To protect plants from mollusks, pieces of bark or slate are laid out around the area, which will make it difficult for pests to move, and a small ditch is made around the flowerbed and filled with large crushed stone. You can also catch slugs with bait: dig a glass jar into the ground, literally flush with the surface, and fill it a third with beer or a fermented sweet drink - juice, compote, honey water. Once trapped in a jar, slugs will no longer be able to get out of it.

Landing in the ground

Salvia is planted in a flowerbed in May if, according to weather forecasters, no return frosts are expected in the next 10 days. During this time, the plants will have time to take root, and the drop in temperature will not be dangerous for them. At night you can cover the plantings with lutrasil. The plant loves sun and calcareous, permeable soil. Of all the species, only salvia adhesive can withstand partial shade. It should be noted that on too nutritious soil the plant forms bushes with large leaves and a minimum number of flowers. This often occurs from excess nitrogen in the soil, to which salvia is very sensitive. To restore normal development, 10 g of superphosphate is poured into 2 liters of hot water and the bushes are sprayed after a day.

Transshipment of salvia, planting and care are not difficult. At what distance to plant seedlings, each gardener decides for himself: some prefer separately growing bushes, others strive to get a dense carpet of flowers. Dense plantings are not afraid of wind. Most often, a distance of 25-30 cm is maintained. A handful of humus and, if necessary, sand are poured into each hole. It is advisable to mulch the planted seedlings. If after planting there is an unexpected drop in night temperature and the seedlings are frozen, they will have to be pruned, as a result the appearance of flowers will occur a month later.

Further care for salvia is no different from caring for other flowers and consists of loosening the soil and fertilizing. The plant needs watering in dry weather until the flowers appear. Diseases practically do not affect her. Whiteflies, thrips, and aphids can cause harm. Snails and slugs eat the leaves. The best way to control pests is to use insecticides.

Salvia blooms from June until frost and produces a fruit of 4 nuts. Seeds remain viable for 5 years. If you have a varietal flower (not a hybrid), they can be collected and sown next year.

Types and varieties of salvia

Salvia species are divided into four groups, and we will introduce you to representatives of each of them.

The first group includes salvias that grow in humid subtropical and tropical regions of America. In their natural habitats, these species live for several years, but in our climate they are grown as annuals. They are demanding on temperature and soil moisture and are damaged even by minor frosts. The first group includes such popular salvias as the bright red, powdery and most commonly grown salvia, shiny or sparkling. Salvia divinorum, or Salvia divinorum, also belongs to the first group.

Salvia vermilion is native to South America. This is a subshrub or herbaceous plant from 50 to 70 cm high with straight, densely pubescent branching stems, finely serrated along the edges, petiolate ovoid leaves with a heart-shaped or truncated base and a pointed apex and loose inflorescences up to 20 cm long of 4-8 flowers with a scarlet-red corolla. The long and flexible stems of this species are prone to lodging and require staking, but bright red salvia can also be planted in hanging structures. The best varieties of the species, which are grown specifically as hanging ones, are:

  • Lady in Red - a bush 35-40 cm high with bright red flowers;
  • Cherry Blossom is an early blooming salvia with pink flowers up to 40 cm high.

Mealy salvia is found in the wild in New Mexico. This is a non-capricious plant characterized by long flowering. The short-haired stems of salvia reach a height of 60 to 90 cm. Petiolate, oblong leaves wavy at the edges can be bare or slightly pubescent along the veins. Whorls consisting of 5-28 dark blue and sometimes white flowers are formed on tall peduncles. The axis of the inflorescence and the calyx are covered with dense pubescence, dark blue or light gray, respectively. The most famous varieties of mealy salvia:

  • Victoria is the most famous variety, blooming luxuriantly with dark blue flowers;
  • Anschuld - a bush with silvery white flowers;
  • Strata is a compact bush with blue inflorescences.

Salvia splendor, or salvia sparkle, is most commonly found in nature in Brazil. This is a perennial plant, which in our climate is grown as an annual crop and forms densely leafy bushes of an obovate shape. Salvia sparkle has opposite, entire, ovate leaves that are dark green above and light green below. Large, irregularly shaped bright red, white, purple or pink flowers are collected in 2-6 pieces in a brush up to 25 cm long.

Plants of this species have become widespread in cultivation since 1822, and today Salvia sparkling is represented by a large number of varieties. Among the cultivars with red flower colors, the most popular are Vesuvius, Fire Flame, Flash, Fire Star, Scarlet Pidgey, Sahara, Fireball and Salvator. Among the varieties with pink flowers, Sizzler Orkid is most often grown, but the two-color hybrids Vista Sharlach Bicolor and Salsa Bicolor are in highest demand. On sale there are mixtures of Parade and Phoenix varieties with flowers of different colors.

The second group of salvias is represented by plants from the Mediterranean. They are perennials that are grown as annuals in cool climates. Compared to representatives of the first group, Mediterranean species are less whimsical, and they can be dug up for the winter and kept in a bright, cool place, and again planted in the garden in the spring. This group includes salvia green (variegated), whorled, dandelion-leaved and Yurisich. However, only one species is popular in gardening.

Salvia variegated, or green, is found in nature in the territory from Southern Europe to Western Asia. The Horminum variety of Salvia variegated with brightly colored bracts has a high decorative value. This plant reaches a height of 40 to 60 cm. It has numerous straight, branching stems, covered with simple and glandular hairs, petiolate oblong leaves, crenate along the edge and also pubescent, and simple inflorescences up to 30 cm long, consisting of pinkish or pale purple flowers with correspondingly bright pink or blue-violet bracts. The best varieties of the species:

  • White Swan - bushes up to 60 cm high with creamy white bracts, but on some plants the upper leaves are purple or pink;
  • Pink Sandy - salvia up to 60 cm high with pink bracts;
  • Oxford Blue is a bush up to 70 cm high with violet-blue bracts.

Sometimes all these varieties are sold in a mix called Bouquet.

The third group includes salvia species that winter in open ground. As a rule, these are herbaceous plants from temperate zones of the Old World. These include salvia oak (forest), sticky, meadow, lush and Ethiopian. For ornamental gardening, only lush salvia, which has a hybrid origin, and forest salvia are of interest.

Salvia lush is a natural hybrid of Salvia sylvestris, a perennial plant reaching a height of 60 cm and blooming profusely with spike-shaped inflorescences of blue-violet flowers. The best varieties:

  • Snow Hill - bush with white flowers;
  • East Friesland is a compact plant with dark purple inflorescences;
  • Blue Hill - a variety with lilac-blue flowers;
  • Blue Queen is a drought-tolerant salvia with blue-violet flowers;
  • Rose Queen is a plant with pink flowers.

Salvia oak, or forest, grows in dry meadows and steppes of Western Asia and Central Europe. Its stems are branched, straight, pubescent, from 30 to 60 cm high. The lower petiolate leaves with a sharp apex, a rounded or heart-shaped base and a crenate edge have a slightly wrinkled texture. The upper leaves are sessile and small. Inflorescences up to 40 cm long are formed from whorls, each of which consists of 2-6 flowers with a violet-blue corolla. Salvia forest is represented by the following varieties:

  • Mainakht is an early variety with dark violet-blue flowers;
  • Plumosa is a plant with dark lavender flowers on peduncles up to 40 cm high;
  • Marcus is a low-growing variety (25 cm) with dark blue flowers;
  • Adrienne - salvia with white flowers;
  • Caradonna is a variety with almost black stems and dark purple flowers.

The fourth group is formed by rare and less cultivated species of salvia: swamp, lavender, azure, nutmeg, rejected, drooping, silver and scabiose. So far, these plants are found only in collectors' gardens.

Salvia - photo of flowers and description of the plant

Salvia fascinates with its original flowers - spread out erect panicles of various shades. Its flowering marks the middle of summer. Not a single gardener can pass by the bright bush. Therefore, it can often be found in garden plots. But few people know how to properly care for it, sow it for seedlings and replant it in open ground.

Origin and cultivation

Salvia is a not too distant relative of sage. Both of these plants come from the genus Lamiaceae. The name of the flower literally translates as “to be healthy,” which refers it to the group of medicinal herbs. Its medicinal and beneficial qualities have been known to mankind for a long time.

The first mention of salvia appears in Ancient Egypt, where it was used as a drug that combats various ailments. The greatest distribution of species in wildlife is in America and Europe.

In total, more than 900 varieties of bright, pointed flowers grow on the globe. Both cultivated and wild, the plant is found in almost all countries except Australia.

Among the interesting forms of inflorescences you can also find such a type of flower as hallucinogenic. The most popular salvia is the shiny and sparkling one.

There are several groups of shrubs:

  1. Americana is an annual plant that grows in warm, humid climates.
  2. Mediterranean - contains a large number of species, more resistant to winter than American.
  3. European - a temperate climate is suitable for this group of plants. Flowers can withstand strong temperature drops. They grow well in shaded areas, but require little shelter in winter.

The plant in nature is a perennial shrub. Although in garden plots it is almost always grown as an annual plant. If you do not pull it out after it has bloomed, the bush will safely survive the Russian winter. In the second year it will grow even more and will become not just the highlight of the site, but a whole decoration.

It reproduces by rhizomes, and loves light, loose and fairly fertile soils.

With favorable care, the stems of the plant stretch to a height of 1.2-1.3 m. They do not tend to bend or creep along the ground. The stems stand straight and neat like candles.

The leaves are a single plate, sometimes pinnately dissected, which are located in pairs on each side of the trunk. The color of the leaves is specific - the lower part is distinguished by a white tone, and the upper part gives off a rich green tint.

The erect stems end in sharp candles. Salvia is represented by a large cluster of small flowers, collected in spike-shaped inflorescences or paniculate compounds. Each flower is up to 20 cm in height.

If faded buds are not removed, they begin to form into fruits, which produce seeds as they ripen. If the plant is allowed to fully ripen, the collected seedlings have a high germination rate that lasts for 5 years.

Planting and caring for salvia

Salvia is a flower that does not require special care. In order for the plant to grow strong and healthy, it should be planted as seedlings, and then only moved into open ground.

Caring for the plant is completely identical to other garden crops, but it should be done as needed.

The flower propagates both by dividing the bush and cuttings, and by planting seeds. The following rules for planting crops are distinguished:

Salvia seedlings ready for planting.

  1. Light sandstone is required for plant rooting. It is recommended that the substrate be rich in humus and lime and absorb nutrient moisture well.
  2. The area where the seedling will be placed must be well lit, because the crop loves sunlight and warmth. The only plant variety, Salvia adhesive, prefers partial shade to sunlight.
  3. Watering is carried out moderately when the soil under the bush is completely dry. The plant does not like swampy soils and severe waterlogging. Irrigation should be done only in the evening so that water that gets on the bush does not cause burns on the delicate petals and foliage.
  4. If weeds have grown at the base of the bush, they need to be removed. During this procedure, the compacted soil is simultaneously loosened.
  5. The plant requires complex mineral fertilizers. They are applied twice during the entire summer period: during the period of growing seedlings and during the formation of buds on the stem.

If salvia is grown as a perennial plant, then formative pruning is necessary for the shrub. It is necessary so that the sprouts do not stretch out; on the contrary, they grow in breadth. For abundant flowering, it is recommended to remove all faded buds.

How to plant seedlings

If the plant is planted as an annual shrub, then it is recommended to sow seedlings for seedlings at the end of February or early March. If the bush is planned as a perennial plant, its seeds should be planted in late autumn so that they undergo natural stratification.

Before starting planting work, seedlings should be disinfected in a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate. After this, the planting material is thoroughly washed under running water and laid out on a soft napkin or toilet paper. This is required so that the seeds dry well.

If the seeds were purchased in a specialized store, then they do not need to be processed. They are treated with a special solution that promotes good germination of planting material.

In addition, seedlings can be kept in capsules. When planting them in this form, you need to take into account the planting time. The germination period in this case is somewhat delayed, because the young shoots must first get out of the capsule.

For sowing, fertile soil is selected, saturated with nutrients, light and well permeable to oxygen and moisture. This soil substrate can be purchased at the store or made yourself.

The last option is preferable. To do this, take 2 parts of peat and turf soil and 1 part of coarse sand. All components are mixed well. Soil preparation at home should take place no later than 7 days before the intended planting of flower seedlings.

The soil should be disinfected in advance: pour boiling water over it, sprinkle with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and fry in the oven.

The selected pot is filled with drainage. 1 cm of expanded clay, vermiculite or broken brick is laid out on the bottom. The next layer is poured exactly to the top of the container in which the seedlings will be planted, so that 2-3 cm remains for planting the seeds.

The seeds are pre-combined with sand calcined in the oven and carefully distributed along the entire perimeter of the pot. If seedlings are planted in granules, then the planting material can be evenly distributed throughout the flowerpot using tweezers.

The distance between the rows should not be less than 3 cm, and the depth into the soil should not be more than 2-3 mm.

The last stage of planting is watering. It is carried out using a spray bottle. This is necessary to ensure that the seeds are not washed out of the soil. Afterwards, you need to cover the pot with film or glass to create greenhouse conditions that promote rapid germination of seedlings.

Further care of the seedlings consists of watering and periodically opening the film so that the plantings do not rot from high humidity.

Planting a plant in open ground

When the seedlings grow well and have 4-5 true leaves, the top growth point should be pinched. This stimulates the activation of the growth of lateral buds, which will lead to the growth of the plant in breadth.

This process occurs closer to the last ten days of April and is a signal for the appropriate period for planting young seedlings in open ground.

If weather conditions do not allow transplantation, then the young plants should be planted in separate flowerpots. As warm days arrive, you can begin planting plants in a permanent location.

Depending on the branching of the bush, the optimal distance between the bushes is selected. The best option for planting would be to place the holes at a distance of 20-35 cm from each other.

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Depressions are dug in the ground, the size of the flowerpot in which the seedling is placed is 2 times larger. 0.3 kg of superphosphate, 0.1 kg of wood ash and 1 kg of rotted manure are laid out at the bottom of the pit. The hole in the ground is filled to the middle with ordinary garden soil and mixed.

The seedling should be well moistened before transplanting. It is necessary to remove the bush so that the entire lump of soil comes out. There is no need to shake off the soil from the roots; it is immediately placed in the prepared hole. Unfilled areas are covered with soil substrate and lightly compacted.

The last step in replanting is good watering. After planting in open ground, it is recommended to slightly shade the plant from sunlight. Such a canopy should be installed for 3-4 days and then removed. This time is enough for the plant to acclimatize to the new location.

Thus, salvia is not only a medicinal plant, but also a decorative decoration for the garden. To grow it, you don’t need a lot of effort; the main thing is to plant the plant as seedlings at the specified time. Otherwise, the shrub may not have time to bloom and will not please the gardener with abundant inflorescences.

Properties of medicinal sage - harm and benefit

Medicinal properties of sage

The most famous species of the Salvia genus is medicinal sage (lat. Salvia officinalis) , which is known to almost everyone who suffered from toothache and gumboils. This plant with oblong leaves and purple inflorescences reaches a height of 50 cm. The species has been in cultivation since 1597. The following varieties and garden forms of Salvia officinalis have been bred for decorative floriculture:

  • Purpurascens is a plant with purple-violet leaves;
  • Crim de la Crime is a variety with variegated leaves;
  • Tricolor is a plant with beige-yellow leaves with purple splashes.

As a medicinal plant, sage is widely used in folk medicine. Hippocrates also pointed out its healing properties, who recommended taking the plant to prolong youth and restore strength. Sage inflorescences and leaves contain essential oil, which includes linalool, aromatic resins, acetic and formic acid, flavonoids, tannins and pinene. The roots of the plant contain coumarin, and the seeds contain fatty oil. Thanks to its composition, sage has a pronounced antimicrobial, restorative, anti-inflammatory, emollient, diuretic, antiseptic, astringent, antipyretic and hemostatic effect, it can reduce sweating and increase the amount of gastric juice, increasing the secretory activity of the digestive organs.

The healing properties of sage determine the use of its preparations in the treatment of kidney and liver diseases, digestive organs, viral infections, sore throat, mumps, gingivitis, neuritis, polyarthritis, radiculitis, tuberculosis, pneumonia, pyelonephritis, diabetes, headaches and gynecological diseases. And when used externally, sage helps heal wounds, ulcers, boils, burns, frostbite and skin diseases.

The leaves and tops of sage stems are harvested as medicinal raw materials, from which decoctions, extracts and essential oils are made.

Salvia officinalis - contraindications

Sage is an excellent remedy for many diseases, but it is not suitable for everyone. Plant preparations can cause allergic reactions, so a skin test must be performed before using them. Sage is contraindicated for women during pregnancy and breastfeeding: it can reduce the level of milk production, and sometimes the use of sage preparations leads to convulsions. Sage should not be used for epilepsy, severe cough and acute kidney inflammation.

In addition, it is unacceptable to take medications for more than three months, as this can lead to addiction and cause irritation of the mucous membranes. In any case, before using sage preparations, it is better to consult a doctor.

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Salvia - cultivation

The beautiful salvia, which can often be found in flower beds and flower beds, is a member of the Lamiaceae family. A characteristic feature of this perennial is the tetrahedral stems and two-lipped tubular flowers that form on the tips of the shoots. Perennial salvia is good because its flowering pleases the eye from June until the first night frosts. The inflorescences can be colored in all shades of red, pink, purple and white. The height of the plant can reach from 25 to 80 centimeters. After the flowering cycle, small boxes are formed at the tops of the stems, in which small seeds ripen. Nine hundred species of salvia are known, but most of the species grown in flower beds are the “Salvia brilliant” species. By the way, species growing in the wild are called sage, and cultivated species are called salvia. Salvia grows all over the world, except Australia. The plant prefers sunny areas, small forest clearings, wastelands, slopes and meadows.

Despite being a perennial, gardeners practice growing salvia as an annual. How and when to sow salvia in order to grow strong seedlings for planting on the site? This will be discussed in this article.

So, let's start with when to sow salvia for seedlings if you plan to grow flowers from seeds

Taking into account the fact that only 75-80 days after sowing salvia is able to produce the first flowers, care should be taken to plant the seeds no later than the end of February

You can grow salvia seedlings either in a large box or in peat cups. First, a thin layer of expanded clay is placed on the bottom of the container, and the top is covered with a light soil mixture, not adding 2-3 centimeters to the top of the sides. Then the soil is thoroughly moistened and left overnight, covered with film or glass. And where, exactly, are the seeds, you ask? They will only be needed the next day. The seeds of this plant are very small, so gardeners recommend mixing them with regular sand. This manipulation will simplify sowing and ensure uniform distribution of seed over the soil surface. No recesses or holes are needed. Simply sow the seeds carefully onto the surface and then cover them with a 1-2mm layer of substrate. All that remains is to sprinkle them with water and cover them with glass. At temperatures from +20 to +25 degrees, optimal humidity and in a well-lit place, the seedlings will feel great. Avoid overwatering! Excess moisture threatens plants with blackleg.

When the second leaf appears, you can safely dive the seedlings into separate containers. You can use the same soil. After the third pair of leaves appears, be sure to pinch. This will ensure the density of the green mass.

As you can see, planting seeds and caring for salvia seedlings is

Growing salvia and further caring for the perennial consists of timely weeding the flowerbed to remove weeds, regular moderate watering and periodic fertilizing with mineral fertilizers.

Having planted salvia on your plot, you will not regret it. This plant looks great both as a single plant and in group compositions.

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Reproduction methods

Sparkling salvia can be propagated by seeds and cuttings. The first case is more labor-intensive, but by growing seedlings yourself, you can speed up the start of flowering. It is easier to propagate a sparkling plant using cuttings. In this case, the offspring will retain all the characteristics of the mother bush.

Propagation by seeds

Seedlings are grown from Salvia sparkling seeds. They should be sown in February or no later than the first days of March. The soil can be used either store-bought or your own. Initially, sparkling salvia seeds are planted in common containers, and then planted in individual pots.

At the first stages, seedlings are grown in greenhouse conditions (moisturized abundantly, covered with film), then at room temperature. Salvia sparkling is transferred to open ground at the end of May or at the beginning of June. In the south, work can be carried out 2-3 weeks earlier.

Propagation by cuttings

It is better to propagate sparkling green salvia by cuttings at the end of summer, when the plant is sufficiently strong and the main wave of flowering has already passed. Sequencing:

  1. Select several shoots and cut cuttings 10–15 cm long.
  2. Place in a container with water, cover from direct sunlight.
  3. After a few days, inspect the seed: if any leaves of the brilliant sage begin to fade, they need to be removed completely or partially.
  4. 2 weeks after receiving the cuttings they give roots. At this point, they can be transplanted to a permanent place or into a pot.

  5. In the first days, it is advisable to shade the plants from the sun, regularly water and spray them. In the future, care is standard, as for an adult salvia.
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