Door to the greenhouse: do-it-yourself made of wood and polycarbonate, photo, dimensions, frame height and width + instructions

DIY polycarbonate greenhouse made of wood. How to properly build a greenhouse made of wood?

Nowadays, greenhouses are found in many summer cottages. Such designs are not only bought, but also made with your own hands. Different materials are used for this. Today we will analyze step by step how to properly construct a greenhouse made of wood.

Peculiarities

In many regions of Russia, it is best to grow fruits and vegetables in properly equipped greenhouses. For example, bell peppers, tomatoes and cucumbers bear fruit well if they are provided with a suitable microclimate. It can be formed using a high-quality greenhouse.

Similar structures are made from a variety of materials. For example, in many areas today you can find products with frames made of aluminum or stainless steel. A good alternative to these options are the terribly popular wooden models. You can not only purchase them at specialized retail outlets, but also make them yourself. Carrying out such work is considered quite simple.

It is only important to use high-quality materials and strictly follow the instructions

Many homeowners choose such structures because they have many positive characteristics.

Let's take a look at their list.

The main advantage of wooden structures is that they are safe from an environmental point of view. They will not adversely affect human health or plantings located inside the greenhouse. Even if there is extreme heat outside, the tree will not release hazardous substances into the environment, because they simply do not exist in its composition.
To construct a greenhouse from wood yourself, the owner does not have to purchase special tools, which often have an unreasonably high cost. Just a standard carpentry kit consisting of a saw, nails and a hammer will suffice.
Greenhouse frames made of wood are distinguished by their low weight. However, this does not in any way affect their strength and durability. Damage to such a structure will be problematic.
You should not be afraid of damage to a certain wooden part, because it can be replaced with a new one. This will not take much effort and time, which indicates the practicality of such greenhouses.

Greenhouse with automatic ventilation

The greenhouse foundation consists of 2 x 12s boards on the edge, tied to a retaining wall on one side and 250cm long 4 x 4 bars set in 90cm concrete slabs on the other side to form a 3 x 3.5m platform. The top of the box is secured board 2 x 6. Installation of polycarbonate panels. Use clamps and hex head screws. Screw the panels to the aluminum crosspieces. Window. Find 4 oversized pieces of 1/4" (6mm) plexiglass about 5cm larger than the vent (window). Make a 12mm spacer from wood and attach the perspex to the hinges using the spacer.

Additional layout. Use the shelf brackets and EMT tubing to make 3 cross braces. T-bolts secure the brackets to the greenhouse. Using corner brackets, attach hydroponic trays to the walls of the greenhouse, this has the added benefit of strengthening the walls. T-bolts are very convenient for attaching brackets anywhere after construction is completed. Also ensure that the steel base is securely attached to the foundation.Solar-powered ventilation. It's simple, the fan is connected to the solar panels - the sun rises, the fan starts working. Two sets of panels are connected directly to the fan, which is built into the box.

Hydroponics. It is a recirculating cultivation system. The formation depth is 14 cm and the water level is approximately 8 cm. A large capacity tank of 1000 liters provides a buffer against temperature changes. You don’t have to change the water during the season, just add it as needed and monitor the level of nutrients. It is advisable to insulate the tank.

Hydroponics important points

When filling, filter the water in the tank.
Monitor the water temperature. The ideal temperature is 20°C, the acceptable range is from 18 to 23°C.
Monitor dissolved oxygen. High oxygen levels promote the formation of aerobic bacteria, which protect the system from all sorts of troubles. The only exception to the rule is lettuce... It will probably grow even in orange juice.

Photo source: www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Greenhouse-With-Solar-Powered-Ventalation/

Caring for a polycarbonate greenhouse

In order for a polycarbonate greenhouse to serve for a long time, reliably and for the plants to produce high yields, it is necessary to follow the basic rules for caring for the greenhouse:

Once a year, in the spring, it is worth wiping the interior walls of the greenhouse with a soapy solution, but without adding alkali;
At the greenhouse construction stage, all joints should be sealed with sealant to avoid the formation of mold, insect penetration and other troubles. This recommendation also applies to the place where the wiring, chimney and lighting cables pass;
In winter, during periods of heavy snowfall, snow should be removed from the greenhouse to avoid its further deformation.

The greenhouse's design is more reminiscent of a construction set, where every part can be replaced without any problems. An individual project for creating a greenhouse will help take into account all the characteristics of the soil and will be much more functional than a ready-made factory version. Thus, with the correct use of materials both for the greenhouse itself and for the door, the service life of the product can be increased for many years.

Brick foundation for a greenhouse

In addition to the light and short-lived foundation made of timber, the home craftsman is faced with the question: can he make a reliable and solid foundation? If you really think about this, then we present to your attention an excellent solution - a brick foundation with a cement strip base.

Brick foundation for a greenhouse

Such a foundation can last for decades, but here, as always, the period is influenced by the correctness of its construction. Let's look at the process of building a brick foundation in detail.

First of all, we make a trench with a depth of 40 to 60 cm. This will be quite enough. Then we pour a concrete base onto the sand cushion.
We lay a row of brickwork. The number of rows of brickwork depends only on your imagination; the higher you want the greenhouse, the more rows you can install.
Next, we lay a layer of roofing felt for waterproofing.
We fasten the bottom trim with anchor bolts. The harness can even be made from timber.

Below in the photo we will look at step-by-step instructions for building a brick foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse.

Brick foundation for a greenhouse. Step-by-step construction technology. Continued. Steps to build a brick foundation

Foundation for a greenhouse made of timber

A foundation made of timber is a simple solution for those who do not want to spend a lot of time constructing a foundation. To build this structure you will need:

Beam with a diameter of 50*50 mm.
Iron pegs for attaching the timber to the ground (provided you are not making it on screw piles or on a brick base) and drying oil.
Drying oil is required in order to prevent wood from premature rotting due to direct exposure to soil and weather conditions (dampness, rain, condensation).

Before we get to the technology of constructing a timber foundation, we note that a timber foundation can be secured not only to the ground (which will cause it to quickly rot), but also to brick supports or screw piles, and then a timber frame can be made - this is the best option.

Using timber in the construction of a greenhouse foundation.

Attaching the frame to a timber foundation (timber frame)

A polycarbonate greenhouse in most cases requires a reinforced frame. It is the frame that is the basis of the structure when constructing a polycarbonate greenhouse. The frame can be made from various materials, but the main materials are:

Wooden beam;
Aluminum guides;
Metal pipes;
Metal corner, etc.

Craftsmen mainly use wooden beams when constructing frame elements, but wood, as noted above, is quite susceptible to rotting and the second disadvantage is the difficulty of dismantling the structure for the winter. When using a wooden frame, this becomes a problematic task. Let's consider various frame options for a greenhouse on a timber foundation.

Caring for a polycarbonate greenhouse

In order for a polycarbonate greenhouse to serve for a long time, reliably and for the plants to produce high yields, it is necessary to follow the basic rules for caring for the greenhouse:

Once a year, in the spring, it is worth wiping the interior walls of the greenhouse with a soapy solution, but without adding alkali;
At the greenhouse construction stage, all joints should be sealed with sealant to avoid the formation of mold, insect penetration and other troubles. This recommendation also applies to the place where the wiring, chimney and lighting cables pass;
In winter, during periods of heavy snowfall, snow should be removed from the greenhouse to avoid its further deformation.

Source

How to build a greenhouse out of wood

If growing your own food and knowing where it comes from is one of your top priorities, then of course you need a greenhouse

Eating healthy now is just as important as not having to eat out of a can in the future.

There is no need to worry about the upcoming costs associated with purchasing a ready-made kit. If you do not have experience in construction, you can first make a simple wooden greenhouse with your own hands under film without much expense. A wooden frame is one of the simplest options.

The supplies you'll need for your greenhouse will vary, so this list may not be exactly what you need, but this is what was used for this particular project.

8 2 x 4 boards, 3 m long.
14 2 x 6 boards for greenhouse base and raised beds.
10 slats 1 x 2 for sealing the film on the greenhouse.
5 strips 1 x 4, 250 cm long, for window and door frames.
3 bars 2 x 2, also 250 cm long, for the door.
Several 4 x 4 beams of approximately 2 m each.
There are a lot of 75mm screws, nails are cheaper, but screws are better for extra strength.
15 meters of greenhouse film and double-sided tape for sealing the film.
6 roofing panels for greenhouses
Roof gable 3 meters.
Along with the above, buy some loops and metal plates to reinforce the seams (this is not necessary, but will come in handy).

Instructions on how to make a wooden greenhouse

Try to find the flattest spot possible to minimize the work. Dig holes for supports 60 cm deep. Then assemble the frame. Don't attach anything to the front where the door will be yet. Trim the tops of the 2 x 4 boards to ensure the roof is level. Putting the roof together is a little tricky, but much easier than trying to measure each truss. Use 2 pallets to make the center point of the roof.

Measure the width of the greenhouse and divide it in half to get the distance from the center on each side.
You will need two people to install the roof. Attach the roof to the frame using metal ties and nails.
Once the roof and frame are ready, make the frame for the door. Then knock down boxes for raised beds.
Attach the film using double-sided tape (on top) to separate it from the frame and also to strengthen the seal. Then nail the slats along the outer edges.
The most interesting part is cutting and laying out the roof panels. This is something that needs to be done by 2 people, at the very least you need someone to hold the ladder.
Secure the roof panels using drywall screws and rubber washers.
Then insert the door into the doorway and tighten the hinges. Install a hook or latch.

This is a short instruction, you will probably have a lot of questions, so you can watch the video on the website (link below), which contains more detailed information than what is presented here.

Photo source: survivalistprepper.net/diy-greenhouse-design/

Choosing a greenhouse shape

Having determined a suitable location, we proceed to choosing a form. The most popular design is greenhouses in the form of arches.

Scheme

Such forms of greenhouses are easy to construct and result in minimal material costs. When choosing the shape of a future structure, it is worth taking into account the location and characteristics of the territory.

Some nuances of choosing forms:

when a location in open space is chosen and the site does not have buildings or tall trees, it is better to install options with a gable roof;
if the plot is small and the greenhouse will be installed directly to one of the walls of the buildings, then it is advisable to choose structural forms with a pitched roof.

As for the base of this building, it can be made in the form of any geometric figure. In modern times, greenhouses in the form of tents are very popular. Since greenhouses of this type perfectly transmit light, due to which the plants receive a sufficient amount of substances that have a positive effect on the quality and quantity of the ripened crop.

Before you make a greenhouse with your own hands, you need to know for sure that this particular affordable option will suit you. And to do this you need to know all the advantages and disadvantages of the building.

Determining the size and shape

The shape depends on the imagination of the builder. Here are the typical ones that are most often found in summer cottages:

Semicircular or arched. The option is practical, since in winter the roof does not collect much snow and is less exposed to winds. However, making a wooden frame for such a structure is a complex matter.
The shape of the house is convenient because the area will be used to the maximum.
A greenhouse with a flat roof is a rather unusual design. A perforated film is attached to the roof. Numerous holes in it are excellent for watering greenhouse plants.

Having decided on the shape, you should calculate the size. If the greenhouse has a couple of beds and a path between them, then 3 m wide is enough. The length is calculated depending on how many plants are planned to be placed in the greenhouse. The optimal option is 6 m. This is enough to provide for a family of six people.

If you decide to build a greenhouse out of wood with a gable roof with your own hands, then the height should be approximately 2 m. There is absolutely no need to build greenhouses that are too high.

Material cutting

Once you have the exact dimensions, you can start shaping the door. In order for the cutting of polycarbonate to be correct, it is advisable to use a circular electric saw for cutting, or, in extreme cases, a simple construction knife.

During the cutting process, the resulting polycarbonate particles should be blown off with a stream of compressed air.

Often the door leaf is cut according to the installation location, and not separately according to size. In such cases, an error in size is unlikely. If desired, you can cut out a small window at the top and install a door closer.

Do not forget about the handle that the door must be equipped with. It can be made of metal or durable plastic. If the structure is equipped with a window, then you can also install a small handle on it.

For fasteners, holes of a suitable diameter are drilled in the material using an electric drill. You can use a regular metal drill. You need to drill between the polycarbonate stiffening ribs. The holes should be no closer than 40mm to the edge of the canvas.

Functional characteristics of the design

Sliding doors are a functional solution for any size greenhouse. During ventilation, they will not slam shut from a sharp gust of wind. Such designs take up much less space. The construction of greenhouses with sliding doors requires an arched structure and a roof made of cellular polycarbonate.

Its recommended thickness is 5-6 mm. Compliance with this parameter creates an optimal temperature regime and guarantees strength. The entire structure is based on building arcs installed at exactly 1 m intervals.

Polycarbonate doors: how to make

Remarkable appearance, light weight, as well as a lower price compared to glass, make polycarbonate very attractive not only for the construction of verandas, greenhouses, transparent roofs and partitions, but also for filling door panels. So what if it’s a polymer material?

But it does not break and does not crumble into fragments, which makes the operation of structures made from it safe. In addition, making doors with your own hands is much easier than any other option. This is exactly what the video in this article will talk about, and its theoretical part will supplement the information with some details.

How to make a foundation for a greenhouse

After preparing and leveling the site, you need to knock down the boards around the perimeter so that you get a box, in each corner of which reinforcement is installed. Metal rods are also installed along the entire perimeter of the foundation. It is desirable that the distance between the rods be the same - about 0.5 m. Opposite rods should be exactly opposite each other. They need to be dug into the ground to a depth of about 50 cm, and the above-ground part should be about the same.

To give greater strength, you can not only knock down the boards around the perimeter, but also secure the corners with curtains using a screwdriver.

How to assemble a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands

If you want to get into gardening, you might want to consider a greenhouse. Today there are several options for greenhouse materials available, including glass, various types of plastics, fiberglass, acrylic, you just have to choose the material. One of these options, perhaps the most effective and cheapest, is polycarbonate. It has other benefits such as light weight, improved insulation and heat retention properties. You can make a greenhouse yourself or buy a ready-made kit that fits your size and pocket. Here you can see how to assemble a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands from a kit. Very detailed step-by-step photos, and if you prefer to watch a video, a link to the site is under the gallery.

Photo source: www.builders.ph/-how-to-build-a-polycarbonate-greenhouse/

How to assemble a polycarbonate greenhouse from a kit

Here is another small example of how to assemble a polycarbonate greenhouse kit. Working from the inside of the greenhouse, attach the bottom plate to the corner braces and the wall studs to the bottom plate. Corner posts are attached to a gable roof using a corner plate. Use two bolts in the corner posts and two in the gable roof. Install two additional bolts into the center pillars. They are necessary to connect the brackets and the door cap. Place the four bolts on the roof gable and secure them to the corner post using the corner plate, then tighten the nuts. Assemble the other end wall in the same way, but without the door frame.

Lay out the posts and attach them to the lower window sill. The two side walls are assembled in the same way. To attach the corners, loosen the four nuts on the plate that connects the end wall to the roof gable. Open this joint, then fasten the bottom staples at each of the four corners. To attach the ridge support, simply loosen the bracket, push it in and tighten. Attach the six roof studs, aligning them with the wall studs and securing them with bolts. Assemble the door and window frames and secure with bolts. Attach the handle to the door. Install window and door panels. Make sure the greenhouse frame sits straight and level on the base before screwing it down.

Insert the polycarbonate panels and measure the spacers. Press the gasket all the way and install it in place. After installing the side walls, press the side gaskets. With the side panels and spacers in place, it's time to install one roof panel and then slide the support from top to bottom. The windows should just slide into place. Attach the hinges to the door frame and then insert the door. The top of the greenhouse wall is the drainage system. Install the included gutter to drain water away from the greenhouse. Install an optional exhaust fan. Use a utility knife to cut a hole in the polycarbonate panel on the back wall of the greenhouse. Install blinds outside. Secure the fan to the motor using the carriage bolts.

Photo source: www.diynetwork.com/how-to/outdoors/structures/how-to-build-a-greenhouse-from-a-kit

How to assemble an aluminum greenhouse under polycarbonate (from the kit)

If you have purchased a ready-made polycarbonate greenhouse kit, this does not mean that you are spared from minor and major troubles that may arise during assembly and operation. Here, using the example of this design with an aluminum frame and polycarbonate panels, it is shown how to eliminate some of the characteristic shortcomings with your own hands. This does not mean that you bought low-quality products, just that they do not always meet your personal needs and the characteristics of your site. Of course, in each case there will be other shortcomings, and maybe you will be lucky and won’t have to redo anything.

To improve this polycarbonate greenhouse, the following was done: Covering questionable polycarbonate panels with high quality 6mm UV protected plastic film. Create a rigid shelving frame using 2x4 lumber that serves as a strong internal structure for mounting. “Raise the roof” of the HF unit almost a foot using 2x12 boards on the edge of the greenhouse base. Reconfiguring the front door so that it is firmly attached to the frame rather than acting as a flimsy slider. You can read specifically about all these transformations on the website, link under the gallery. See detailed step-by-step photos below.

Photo source: www.instructables.com/id/Building-and-Improving-the-Harbor-Freight-6×8-Gree/

How to make a greenhouse with your own hands

It is no secret that making a greenhouse with your own hands is quite possible and not even as difficult as it seems, if initially, at the first stage of construction, you decide on some important criteria.

Choosing a location for a greenhouse

This, one might say, is the most important factor in any dacha construction, which in turn also depends on various conditions and requirements:

Greenhouse type, Plot size, Financial capabilities,

The location of the greenhouse largely depends on its type, that is, on your purposes for which you are creating greenhouses on your summer cottage. The size of the greenhouse, its equipment and location will depend on whether you grow seedlings and crops exclusively for the needs of the family or put it on stream (for business).

Winter greenhouses

As a rule, a winter greenhouse requires heating in it during the cold season. Making a small winter greenhouse with your own hands is generally not difficult. This option presupposes a careful selection of a place for the greenhouse. Winter greenhouses are usually stationary and are built for many years of operation, which means such a structure requires the presence of a solid foundation, which, depending on the size, should be made either strip or pile, as for a fence from corrugated sheeting, or at least columnar, as in the construction of a garden gazebo.

Winter greenhouse - thermos

Another type of winter greenhouse, which requires significant excavation work, since a fairly deep pit is made for such a greenhouse with the walls strengthened as for a swimming pool. In addition, the walls should be additionally insulated with special heat-insulating panels, a vestibule should be arranged - an adapter at the entrance and, of course, pay considerable attention to the strength of materials for the greenhouse roof (thick glass is best here) to prevent destruction by a thick layer of snow. And of course, monitor and promptly remove snow from the roof, which will not only prevent destruction of the roof, but also provide natural light for several daylight hours . To ensure a 16-hour daylight hours, LED lamps with low energy consumption are suitable. Heating of such a greenhouse usually comes from a stove, which can also be assembled with your own hands from brick or welded from iron, and also provide natural ventilation.

Polycarbonate greenhouse

Greenhouses made from this material are widely used among gardeners due to the speed of assembly and installation and simplicity of design. However, when ordering such a greenhouse, you should consider some nuances:

Polycarbonate greenhouses, as a rule, are mounted in the shape of a semicircular convex arch, which means that in such a sloping roof it will be either difficult or financially expensive to install ventilation vents. In addition, additional holes in the polycarbonate frame weaken its rigidity, and in winter, its tightness. Therefore, when installing such a greenhouse, it would be reasonable to make two exits at both ends, or to make a window at one end for better ventilation in the summer. A greenhouse made of polycarbonate is the same It is better to install it on a stationary foundation. When ordering a polycarbonate greenhouse, special attention should be paid to the shape of the roof slopes. It is more practical to make slopes in the form of segments concave inwards, the convex part of which should be located approximately at the level of a person’s shoulders. This shape will allow the snow to roll down from the steep ridge, from where it can be removed without much difficulty. The frame of the greenhouse itself should be additionally reinforced from the inside using reinforcement mesh with large mesh sizes, this will also prevent snow from pushing through the roof in the winter.

So, by following these simple rules, you will be more reliably insured against troubles in the form of breakage and collapse of the greenhouse frame in winter from snow, regardless of whether you use the greenhouse only in the summer or all year round.

Heated greenhouse

Heated greenhouses with your own hands can also be made in the form of various options. As mentioned above, this can be stove heating or the so-called bubophony or bubophonic stove for a greenhouse, which is quite easy to make with your own hands, even from a simple barrel or an old gas cylinder.

However, it is ideal if you have the opportunity to conduct heating directly from the house. In this case, the option of a lean-to greenhouse will be the most ideal.

Lean greenhouses

This type of building also assumes the presence of a stationary foundation, since it is made in the form of an extension to the house with the house heating system being brought inside the greenhouse. Ideally, if there is also an exit from the house directly into this building. The material for building such a heated greenhouse should also have a good degree of strength, so the best option is either polycarbonate reinforced with reinforcing mesh or a metal frame with glazing.

Summer greenhouses

Making a summer greenhouse with your own hands is not a complicated process and is quite quick. As a rule, summer greenhouses are made of film stretched over a frame - wire, wood or PVC pipes.

Film greenhouses

Such greenhouses are not expensive in terms of materials, they usually do not require a capital foundation, but they are not durable either, since the film can break through in winter under the weight of snow, and in summer from strong wind or hail. Nevertheless, such a summer greenhouse can be made more durable, If:

Use reinforced film as a covering, Use a collapsible frame to dismantle and remove the structure for the winter in a utility room, Use methods of attaching the film to the frame that make it easy to remove the film for the winter or replace damaged material,

And of course, unlike greenhouses made from old frames, this design looks more aesthetically pleasing and more practical to use. In addition, the design is usually mobile and can be easily moved from one place on the site to another, which can be easily determined in advance using an online garden designer.

Stationary greenhouses made of film

Since greenhouse structures most often require a fairly significant height for the convenience of working in them, then, accordingly, the structure itself has a large “windage”. To do this, the supporting parts of greenhouses with wooden or metal frames should be strengthened in the ground - dig pillars to a depth of 0.5 to 1 meter, cover them with pebbles and fill them with cement mortar for strength.

Greenhouses - bread bins

Breadbox greenhouses can rather be classified as greenhouses and covered with agrofibre, since such a design with large sizes will have a lot of inconveniences, in particular the large weight of the folding part, and in the version in Figure 2 also increased windage. Therefore, in windy areas, care should be taken to strengthen the structure.

However, such a frame can be secured with metal pins driven into the ground. In addition, the design of the bread box itself is not airtight. Making a greenhouse with your own hands from a metal frame is hardly advisable, since the labor costs do not pay for the result. So it’s easier to buy this greenhouse, but it will be quite possible to assemble ready-made elements with your own hands. make a prototype from an ordinary plastic barrel.

Master Class

So, let's consider building greenhouses with your own hands from film on a frame made of reinforcing mesh and PVC pipes. For this version of a summer greenhouse, you should assemble a wooden box - the base (in windy areas it is better to use heavier elements - logs, sleepers, to give stability to the structure) . rigid metal mesh with a cross-section of 10 - 12 mm, this will give additional rigidity to the frame and will allow you to further strengthen the future greenhouse directly to the ground with the help of metal studs. In the version made of reinforcing mesh, metal tubes are added along the perimeter of the bottom for rigidity, which, as parts of the frame, are connected wire. PVC tubes in the form of an arch are attached to both ends. Also at this stage, a doorway is installed from 100 x 50 timber. For the strength of the greenhouse, you can also install additional logs at the ends and along the perimeter of the bottom. If you decide to use exclusively PVC pipes, then it is advisable to strengthen them along the perimeter of the box, placing them on firmly driven rods made of reinforcement with a cross section of 100 - 150 mm into the ground. and attach to the frame using metal brackets. For this option, it would also not be superfluous to install additional fastening elements for the stability of the frame. After this, the frame is covered with reinforced film. At the last stage, we make a door frame according to the size of the opening from beams 50 x 20 mm (I recommend this put 2 beams diagonally in the shape of the letter “X”). we cover the door with film and hang it on the opening using ordinary hinges. If your design does not provide for a second exit or a window on the opposite side, then the problem of ventilation can be solved in a fairly simple way - make a vertical or “L” shaped slot in the film and carefully sew in a regular detachable plastic lock with large sections. We install boxes inside the greenhouse and fill them with soil as for high beds.

An easier option is to make beds out of straw. The passage can be made in the likeness of gravel paths, because the climate in greenhouses is usually humid and your shoes will be protected from soil sticking.

Greenhouse made from plastic bottles

Such a greenhouse with your own hands can last for more than one season if you follow all of the above recommendations for the construction and maintenance of the structure.

Polycarbonate-panels in size: 1600x2600mm-2 pieces for end walls, 6 panels 1265x1585mm for covering roofs and 6 plates 1265x1690mm for walls; plywood-size 12x1220x2440mm, 1 sheet 8-12 mm thick; construction nails or screws; handles and freeze locks; soft or steel sheet for roofing; roofing steel cornice; antiseptic for wood processing.

Directly for cutting panels, you need a construction knife with good blades and a steel ruler, preferably at least 1 meter long. And also the following tools: measuring tape, hammer, circular saw, square, screwdriver, level and a piece of cord.

Foundation installation

Install a polycarbonate greenhouse on a high-quality, strong foundation. For this type of greenhouse, you can dig a strip pit yourself in an area the depth and width of a shovel. This will keep the floor in the greenhouse dry.

Install the foundation on a beam (sometimes called a half-beam) with a section of 50x100mm. Fold the frame. Tie the beams together into half a tree and lay them on waterproofing.

Be sure to thoroughly saturate them with an antiseptic and cover them with rubber-bitumen mastic. Immediately orient the foundation to the cardinal points so that the installed greenhouse is well illuminated by the sun.

How to assemble a polycarbonate greenhouse support

The support for the ridge beam in the greenhouse is the doorways. Install studs and crossbars on the end walls. Assemble the frames on a level area.

It’s good if you have a jig - a special construction site with stops, in which it will be convenient to position, mark, cut and assemble parts. Attach the rafter beams to the wall with plywood brackets. Install the frames onto the door frame.

It is necessary that the ridge corners of the frames lie strictly in a straight horizontal line. You can check this by pulling the cord between the outer frames. They should be positioned vertically.

After this, install two ridge boards. To secure the frame, special beams are installed, which connect the greenhouse frames into one common structure. The purlins (beams) are made along a horizontal line and at the same distance from each other.

Fastening of internal equipment

The next stage in the installation of a greenhouse made of cellular polycarbonate is the installation of internal equipment. Almost everything is known about installing beds on the ground, so let’s consider the option of installing boxes with plantings on long benches. Place the benches on support frames.

Attach them to the wall beams of the greenhouse frames, and make supports from bricks or timber. Align the corners of the support frames with a cord and a level. Screw or nail slats onto the supports on top to form a working surface. We prevent rusting of fasteners.

To prevent the fasteners of the benches from rusting, drive the heads of the nails (or screws) completely into the wood of the bench. To do this, you can use the following technology: - each hole for fasteners is drilled to a diameter of 10-12 mm to a depth of 6 to 10 mm; - a nail or screw is driven completely into the resulting hole; - the recessed cap is plugged with a wooden plug or just a round stick of glue and sawed off to the level of the surface. Thanks to this simple procedure, rusting of fasteners is delayed by 6-8 years.

Setting the door

Next, install the doors into the opening. Take a door of a conventional frame design with door hinges. In the middle of the door frame between the crossbars, install a piece of one-inch thick board, which will act as a strengthening connection.

You can also put a door handle on it.

Polycarbonate cladding

The installation of a polycarbonate greenhouse is completed by directly covering it with panels. The polycarbonate panel consists of two sheets connected to each other by longitudinal ribs made of the same material.

Cut it with a construction knife along the ruler, without making much effort so as not to break it. Screw the finished panels cut to the required size to the frames of the greenhouse. We recommend using screws with half-round heads with press washers for this purpose.

Thanks to the increased surface area and reduced height, this type of head is particularly suitable for clamping sheet materials. To make everything even more neat, fasten the screws through a metal or plastic lining.

Cover the panels facing the ridge with special elements made of roofing material or steel. After this, your greenhouse is ready.

Option 2. Polycarbonate greenhouse on a galvanized profile

A wonderful option for a greenhouse made of cellular polycarbonate is a structure made of galvanized profile.

Recommended Specifications

To make the greenhouse better and more convenient to use, and to stand on the site for several years, try to choose the best characteristics for it:

top quality profile, 0.8mm thick, polycarbonate density of at least 700 g/m2, double protection from ultraviolet rays, galvanized tie strips for attaching polycarbonate to the frame, arch reinforcements included.

Should I lay a foundation?

The foundation for a greenhouse made of cellular polycarbonate on a galvanized profile is not always laid out. The structure can be fixed with legs with T-shaped ends, which are dug into the ground to a depth of 20 cm.

The ground level is filled 10-15 cm above the polycarbonate both outside the greenhouse and on the inside - for better heat retention. Before burying the frame in the ground, cover the structure with polycarbonate and install tie strips. To strengthen the greenhouse, you can also make a permanent foundation - from concrete, timber, stone or other materials.

Assembling a greenhouse frame from galvanized profile

The dimensions of the frame may be different, as well as the shape. But the general assembly scheme remains the same:

Transverse arcs are assembled - each of 3 segments. If you look from the outside of the greenhouse, each subsequent one must follow the previous one. Or the kit includes all-metal arches. The transverse elements of the frame are installed. The vertical posts of the frame are installed, first on one side, then on the other. The front side is assembled (where the doors will be). The back side is assembled (opposite to the front). Doors and vents are connected.

Next, the greenhouse is installed in a permanent place - with or without a foundation - in a pre-prepared trench.

Installation of polycarbonate on a profile

It is determined which side of the polycarbonate will come out. This should be the side on which the protective film with the pattern is applied. Regardless of what color of polycarbonate you choose, such a film is still available. This film is not removed until installation.
Cut all the polycarbonate sheets. The channels that remain open at the edges of the plates must be sealed on the upper side with a continuous sealing tape, and on the bottom with perforated tape. - along the end of the greenhouse (with an allowance of 1 cm), - along the upper part - the distance between the side coverings of the end and from the top of the window is measured to the top of the end arch, a rectangle is cut out according to the obtained dimensions. It is important to place the honeycombs vertically along the height of the end and do not forget to make an allowance (5 mm is possible).
Close your entire profile. First the roof and ends of the arches, then the side walls. Cover the plastic connections at the corners with corners or tape. Seal the window with a rubber seal. Install hardware on the door.

It is possible to cover the roof and walls with solid sheets.

Important tips for installation and assembly

To properly mount the frame, unpack the packs of parts as needed. This will reduce the likelihood of confusion and accidental damage to items.
Work carefully, because... Before complete installation, the frame does not have a sufficient level of resistance and can be bent or even broken by strong pressure. Leave the protective film on the polycarbonate until the greenhouse is completely covered. Do not allow dust or shavings from the cut edges to get inside the plastic. Attach the polycarbonate to the greenhouse with a special profile or gaskets made of rubber. If an arched-type greenhouse is covered, you can use bending radii no more than those indicated in the technical data and only along the line of the channels. When installing the polycarbonate panel, insert it into the profiles or grooves at least 2 cm. Take the joining profiles one size larger than the polycarbonate. Or make plastic with an overlap. Mount the edges of the panels only vertically - for good water drainage. If you fasten the sheets with bolts and washers, drill holes in the sheet in advance and half the diameter of the bolts, no closer than 4 cm to the edge of the sheet.

You can see in more detail the installation of an arch-type polycarbonate greenhouse at:

How to install a greenhouse bread box

In order for a greenhouse structure to last as long and efficiently as possible, you need to know where and what to install it on. Every requirement needs to be taken into account.

Selection, preparation of site and foundation

It is necessary to correctly install the greenhouse, adhering to the following recommendations:

the area should be sufficiently illuminated by the sun throughout the daylight hours;
the structure should be located from south to north;
do not place the greenhouse near tall plants because of their shadow on cultivated crops;
the surface for installing the greenhouse structure should be as flat as possible (the slope of the site can cause the frame to skew);
the optimal distance from outbuildings to the greenhouse is 5-7 m;
the distance from the shower/bath should be within 8-10 m;
The greenhouse must be installed at a distance of 25 m from the wastewater treatment plant.

The area allocated for the greenhouse bread bin must be cleared of weeds and other debris. The foundation can be made of either wooden blocks or concrete and bricks, with preliminary excavation of a trench into which sand and crushed stone are placed.

Greenhouse installation

A self-assembled structure made of polycarbonate or film material is once again checked for rigidity so that the structure is resistant to adverse environmental factors. All connection points must also be checked. If the greenhouse is ready, it is installed on the foundation.

Advice! As an option, the manufactured breadbox structure can be placed in the chosen location on “legs” pre-welded at the corners, which are buried in the ground.

The greenhouse must be connected to the foundation at several points. For a wooden base, it is good to use staples. If the foundation is made of brick or concrete, then it is worth taking screws for installation. Making a greenhouse bread box yourself is not difficult, the main thing is to stick to the scheme and use only high-quality materials. To extend the service life of the metal frame, an anti-corrosion compound, primer and metal paint are used, and for a wooden structure, deep penetration antiseptic agents are used.

How to attach to frame

To attach the sheet material to the frame you will need a polycarbonate profile. Attach it to the finished frame and then insert the honeycomb carbonate panel.

Another fastening option is to lay a rubber band under the sheets. This way you will achieve greater tightness. A metal plate above the seam, mounted with screws, will secure the structure.

It is important to install each sheet correctly. Arrange the sheets so that the honeycombs are directed vertically. This will prevent liquid from accumulating.

Craftsmen recommend drilling holes at the bottom of the door, as well as throughout the greenhouse if it is made of polycarbonate, through which water will drain. Maintain a distance of thirty centimeters between the holes.

The diameter of the hole is approximately half a centimeter. This way moisture will not accumulate in the greenhouse.
Self-adhesive tape made of aluminum will provide excellent sealing. Also use perforated materials.
This will prevent the accumulation of dust and condensation. Install the canopy on the door frame. This way you will ensure the door's reliability and strength.
It is not necessary for the greenhouse to close tightly; there may be a small gap on the side, but then insulate the structure using seals.

Make sure that every corner is straight to avoid distortions. The frame that you made should be smaller than the doorway, by one to one and a half meters. For a sliding door, the mechanism is mounted separately, and the structural elements must fit tightly to each other.

How to choose a seal for greenhouse doors

The door frame in greenhouses is made only after the roof is sheathed. Then they proceed to the end part of the greenhouse - the door and, accordingly, the entrance to the room should be at the end.

Due to the fact that significant gaps may remain in the end during installation, they must also be sealed.

Advantages of a rubber seal:

The end seal made of glass and polycarbonate significantly increases the retention of heat and moisture inside the building and protects against any temperature changes and bad weather;
In addition, the material can enhance the strength of the entire structure, as it reduces vibration created by the wind;
The rubber material also has a nice appearance.

All these advantages are due to the properties of the material:

It is not susceptible to sunlight and mechanical deformation;
Resistant to low temperatures, down to frosts of -35-40 degrees below zero;

Insulation

The structure is insulated with special seals. The most common type of such products is made of rubber.

A rubber seal for a door in a greenhouse retains heat and moisture inside the greenhouse, provides protection from adverse natural phenomena and increases the strength of the entire structure, since it reduces vibrations that occur during gusts of wind.

A high-quality and well-sealed door should protect the internal atmosphere of the greenhouse from the adverse effects of the external environment.

Installation of arches

To install a collapsible greenhouse, including doors, it is better to use bolts. Regardless of the type of structure - with 2 movable doors or one. If you plan to install a stationary greenhouse, then it is better to use welding to connect the frame elements.

Afterwards, the racks are cut - the bases for the arcs. You will also need strips to connect bent pipes. The joints are fixed with special crabs or welding. The finished frame is installed on the base and fixed to the foundation with metal plates or reinforcement.

Helpful information! If welding is used to connect frame elements, then the seams must be treated with a metal primer for reliability.

Correct construction of a door frame for a greenhouse

The production of a greenhouse door can be based on any door leaf. Usually the same material is taken from which the greenhouse itself is constructed.

A wooden door is made using dry slats measuring 30x40 mm and film, which is then covered with it.

The process is as follows:

The unfastened box is assembled using plates and corners according to the dimensions of the doorway;
After this, polyethylene is stretched over the frame;
Next comes fastening to the side post so that the door opens outward;
The porch is also made of wood and secured with an end seal.
A threshold for the door is necessary, as it will allow the structure to be raised above the ground;
The handles are attached on both sides and are equipped with any closing device.

When asked how long it can take to build a door for greenhouses, you can answer that you can complete this work alone within 1-2 days.

Making doors from polycarbonate

So, how to make a high-quality and reliable door to a greenhouse from polycarbonate? If the entire greenhouse is made from this material, then the algorithm of work resembles that with polycarbonate sheets, but if you only need to make a door, then the main thing is to make the frame correctly so that it fits well into the opening.

If the greenhouse was built on a metal frame, then the frame must also be made of metal. To create it, you need to take a profile pipe of size 30/2 or 40/3. But if the greenhouse itself is built of wood, then the frame, accordingly, must be made of pine beams with a cross-section of 50*50 cm.

After the frame is assembled, it is placed on a polycarbonate sheet and cut along the contour.

Manufacturing

In order to make a reliable door of proper quality from a polymer material for a greenhouse, it is necessary to take into account some factors:

If the entire greenhouse structure is sheathed with polycarbonate, then the procedure for working with the door trim will be the same.
If only the door is made from this material, then the most important step in the work will be the correct manufacture of the frame; it should fit perfectly into the opening.
If the frame of the greenhouse is made of metal, then the frame for the door should be made of a metal profile measuring 30x2 or 40x3.
If the “skeleton” of the greenhouse is constructed of wood material, then the frame should be made of wooden beams with a cross-section of 50x50cm (it is advisable to take the timber from coniferous wood).

Having assembled the frame, you need to place it on a polycarbonate sheet and outline the outline. Then all that remains is to cut the polymer sheet according to the markings and secure it to the frame.

Polycarbonate doors to the greenhouse

There are several ways to make a polycarbonate door to a greenhouse with your own hands. This material can be inserted into hinged swing doors, or serve as a filler for sliding and folding sashes. The door can also be frameless, and all the proposed fittings will be attached to a polymer sheet. If there is no frame, the rigidity of the structure is provided by the polycarbonate itself, and then it is better to use a monolithic version of the material with maximum thickness.

Of course, you will have to spend a little money on such a door, but its appearance will be quite solid. As for cellular polycarbonate, it does not have the same strength as monolithic one and is much lighter in weight, so it is used to fill plastic, wooden and aluminum frames.

Design

There are several ways to make a door to a greenhouse. Doors that swing open on awnings, sliding and folding doors can be covered with a polymer panel.

The door can be made completely frameless; all the necessary fittings are attached directly to the polycarbonate sheet.

In this case, the rigidity of the structure is ensured by the material itself, so for this purpose it is recommended to use monolithic polycarbonate of maximum thickness. Naturally, such a door will not be cheap, but outwardly it will look presentable.

Cellular polycarbonate is not suitable for this option; it is less durable and much lighter, which is why it is used to fill or cover frames made of plastic, wood and metal. Samples of various designs can be seen in the photo of a door for a greenhouse.

Caring for a polycarbonate greenhouse

In order for a polycarbonate greenhouse to serve for a long time, reliably and for the plants to produce high yields, it is necessary to follow the basic rules for caring for the greenhouse:

Once a year, in the spring, it is worth wiping the interior walls of the greenhouse with a soapy solution, but without adding alkali;
At the greenhouse construction stage, all joints should be sealed with sealant to avoid the formation of mold, insect penetration and other troubles. This recommendation also applies to the place where the wiring, chimney and lighting cables pass;
In winter, during periods of heavy snowfall, snow should be removed from the greenhouse to avoid its further deformation.

Source

Advantages of polycarbonate greenhouses

Polycarbonate is an affordable and high-quality material that is often used for the manufacture of greenhouses. The advantages of choosing a material include:

Sufficient strength.
Excellent flexibility, which allows polycarbonate sheets to be laid on a metal or wooden frame.
Ease of working with the material. The construction of a structure of this type does not require special skills and abilities from the master.
Polycarbonate can be easily cut with sharp knives, which allows the installation of doors and circulation vents.
Polycarbonate creates an additional layer from ultraviolet radiation, protecting plants.
Has excellent resistance to high temperatures.

An important selection criterion is the affordable price. In addition, financial investments will quickly and more than pay off. For the convenience of craftsmen, today there are a huge number of detailed instructions on how to make a greenhouse.

Glass substitute

Polycarbonate is an engineered synthetic sheet material that can be used in fairly extreme temperatures. Therefore, it is equally suitable for both indoor and outdoor structures.

Of course, the material cannot compare with glass in terms of translucency, so replacing it, for example, in windows, will not work. But, thanks to its flexibility, it helps designers develop interesting designs with a curved shape - for example: sliding canopies over a terrace or pool.

Honeycomb Product Sheet

There are two types of polycarbonate, the main difference of which is their different structure:

The first option is thin double panels connected to each other by jumpers, which form cells in the thickness of the material. Because of this, this type is called “cellular”.
Another variety , due to its continuous structure, is called monolithic. In appearance, the sheets are very similar to glass, and can have a thickness of 0.2 to 2 cm. They are almost as transparent, which can be seen even in the photo, which is why panels with a monolithic structure are most often used for the construction of partitions and glazing of interior doors.

Polycarbonate with monolithic structure

A monolithic sheet does not bend as well as cellular polycarbonate, which can even be rolled, but if necessary, it is given a spherical shape using hot molding. Due to its dense structure, the material has higher strength and can even serve as a frameless self-supporting floor.

The standard width of a polycarbonate sheet is 2.05 m. The length can vary significantly, but the minimum is 3m. The popularity of the material is also facilitated by its rich color range.

It can be transparent or matte, have a bronze tint, or match all the colors of the rainbow. Manufacturers usually guarantee 10 years of quality preservation, but in fact polycarbonate lasts much longer.

Optimal greenhouse door width

The width of the doorway depends on the width of the passages between the beds, that is, on the size of the greenhouse. And the size of the door, of course, should be related to the building itself.

Standard dimensions for the carriage of technical and mechanical devices and the passage of persons:

Usually the width of the door is 1 meter. This is necessary so that a garden wheelbarrow can be wheeled into the greenhouse.
If a person does not intend to use a cart, a door size of 60 centimeters is allowed.

A greenhouse may have one or more doors at opposite ends. This is done for the convenience of moving garden equipment. But doors also exist to ventilate the interior in extreme heat. Although vents located in different places of the greenhouse, and even on the roof, can also be used for these purposes. There are options when the window is located directly on the door, or a mechanical opener is used.

According to their type, the following types of doors can be installed in greenhouses:

Ordinary swing;
Sliding doors.

The sliding type is the most convenient and practical. As a rule, they are sold complete with ready-made greenhouse designs.

Types of doors to the greenhouse

The design of the door to the greenhouse can be of several types:

Swing. One-piece construction mounted on heavy-duty door hinges to ensure a tight seal. Installation of the structure is quite simple, especially if the greenhouse is made of a frame and film;
Sliding. This option is very convenient, because it prevents the door leaf from hitting the door jamb, and the movement of the door itself is limited. The tight fit of the fabric is ensured by the seal;
Option with a window. If the door frame allows, then you can make a window in it, but you will only need to open it manually.

Assembling the frame

Let's consider the case when you decide to build an arch with straight walls on a site, and a metal profile is chosen for the frame. The base for us is a foundation made of timber, standard dimensions - 6m x 3m. It is best to install the frame on the ground, and only then install it on the foundation.

1 Assembling the end rear wall

we cut the metal profile to the specified dimensions (width 3 m, height 1.5 m), open the end of the profile at the corners so that the side element fits into it (using pliers we unfold the internal rigidity and form a tongue);
we connect with two screws with a flat head (in common parlance – bedbugs);
after these steps you should get a rectangle with two transverse slats (they are attached in the same way, but inserted edgewise);
temporarily fix the rectangular part of the entire free guide;
We check the angles with diagonals (they can be played by a tape measure or an entire profile).

2 Create a pediment from racks

find the middle of the rectangle;
in this place the straight lines should intersect, creating an angle;
cut off the excess, fasten the corner in the manner described above;

4 Making a hole for the doors

We fix two metal profiles, height from the base to the roof line, at a distance of 60 to 80 cm in the center of the rectangle (these will be the doors);
we cut out that part of the rectangle that crosses them transversely, and then attach this scrap higher (taking into account your height, so that you don’t hit your head on it every time).

5 Assembling the side walls

we take the metal profile and cut it to size (total width - 6 m, height - 1.5 m, pitch - 1 m, that is, in addition to the rectangle, you get five more transverse slats);
a 6 m base will consist of two profiles that need to be securely connected;
the connecting element here will be a transverse profile, namely, we cut off a 20-centimeter piece of the profile, put it on the transverse one and get a structure in the shape of the letter “T”;
the open ends of the two sections are “dressed” onto this connecting structure and fixed with self-tapping screws.

6 Connect the walls together

first of all, the rear wall is installed on the foundation, again using self-tapping screws;
pieces of metal profiles, similar to those described above, are attached to each of the walls and serve as a connecting element;
We alternately connect each wall to the next one.

7 Installation of the roof base

we prepare five rafters, assemble them according to the same principle as the front part in the end wall with the only difference - the screed should not be attached at the ends of the profile, but in the middle of their length;
to attach the rafters to the walls, you need to cut the profile from the sides, and bend the resulting tongue under the wall profile, securing it with self-tapping screws;
Additionally, you can place a piece of profile under the connection and secure it on both sides;
the ridge element is made from a guide profile, and it must be attached in such a way as to make do with one cutout of the side wall for each triangle (that is, the angle of the ridge is formed by bending the profile and cutting out the bend for the rafters).

7 Attach the sheets

You can secure it using an H-profile: it is attached to the frame, and polycarbonate sheets at the joints are fixed into this profile.

You can do without it. But then you need to put a rubber layer on the places where the frame adheres to the polycarbonate panels, on top of this - the sheets themselves, then put metal overlays on top of them, and then connect all these “layers” with self-tapping screws along the seam between the two polycarbonate sheets.

Step-by-step instruction

You can install the structure yourself at home thanks to the characteristics of carbonate. To do this you need to follow simple sequential steps. Don't forget to think about safety precautions.

Before you begin the preparatory and main work, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with several rules for working with polycarbonate. They will help you simplify the installation process and reduce the risk of defects:

Choose sheets that protect from ultraviolet radiation. This can be determined by the presence of a protective film. A protective film must be glued to polycarbonate sheets for door trim.
When installing stiffeners, position them along their length so that the collected condensate has a gap for free exit through the internal channels.
If an installation with an arched shape is required, the radius must be made exactly within the boundaries specified by the manufacturer. In this case, it is also necessary to additionally take into account the deflection.
When cutting sheets into pieces, do it on a specially prepared surface. If you use an automatic tool, make sure that the sheet does not move. Before cutting, mark lines to ensure even pieces.
The holes are also made in advance. Their diameter should be slightly larger than the diameter of the screw, and do not fasten the screws themselves rigidly. The material heats up and if the fastening is too tight, cracks may form.
When fastening, you need to use special sealing gaskets.
The protective film is removed last.

This is useful: how and with what to cut polycarbonate at home.

The protective film from polycarbonate sheets on hinged doors should be removed last.

Installation of a hinged door

In order to install the mounted type, you need to follow the following recommendations:

Clearly measure the parameters of the opening. Particular attention must be paid to right angles - these are where the biggest problem arises with incorrect measurements.
Tighten the corners of the opening with special corners. This is necessary in order to ensure that there is no distortion.
Cut out the canvas. To do this, you can attach a slab to the old door and cut it to the old dimensions.
Install the canvas using a canopy.

To install a model with a frame yourself, follow this procedure:

Take measurements of the opening or door that was there previously.
Prepare a frame from a material that matches your interior. An excellent solution is an aluminum frame. Sand the frame.
Cover the frame with paint or varnish. To make it more presentable, it is recommended to use a stain or polish.

Before starting work on a polycarbonate door, you need to draw up a detailed drawing
Cut the material into sheets and make holes in it for fastening.
Carry out the trim. Use special stiffening ribs on sheets.
Secure the awnings.

Installation of a sliding structure

By placing a guide element, you can open the structure along the wall, similar to the principle of operation of a wardrobe, thereby saving space.

Also, if you install a model with one leaf, you will increase the resistance to drafts and heat retention in the room.

There are different types of sliding door designs, choose the one that suits you best.
Installation instructions for this type differ only in the installation of a special mechanism. Let's look at it in more detail:

Secure the metal guide mechanism 7–10 cm above the opening.
Attach rings to the polymer sheet.
Install the entire structure.

So, installing a polycarbonate door is a practical solution for your interior and beneficial for your budget. You can easily carry out the installation yourself by first drawing up a project and following simple instructions.