Greenhouse made of reinforcement (photo): types, features, main disadvantages and advantages of the design. How to make it yourself according to the diagrams?

Types of greenhouses made of reinforcement

The main thing is that it is reliable and does not require a lot of money, time, or energy for the installation process. The structure will help you have a lot of fun with minimal strain on your physical and mental strength, which will undoubtedly benefit your health. To do this, it is enough to set aside weekends.

There are only two types:

1. The classic version based on steel reinforcement.
2. Modern version made of plastic reinforcement based on composite material.

Any option has pros and cons. Let's take a closer look at the advantages:

• A frame of any shape and size can be created without much effort. Quick dismantling possible;
• Moderate cost of materials.

The disadvantages are significant, but surmountable:

• It is not profitable to store materials because they occupy a large area and quickly deteriorate. But, thanks to regular priming, the appearance of rust can be suppressed;
• It is advantageous to use plastic material to create a small greenhouse.

If you use the fittings correctly, then the greenhouse will last a long time and will become a reliable shelter for obtaining a decent harvest.

Like everything we deal with, assembling a greenhouse yourself has its pros and cons. We will indicate both, but I would like to say right away that there are many more advantages, so feel free to cast aside all doubts and be sure to use the assembly guide, which we will provide below.

Advantages and disadvantages

We will start, of course, with the positives. Among them:

• expenses can be adjusted taking into account your capabilities;
• the cost of the structure will be lower than the finished one;
• the appearance of the structure, its dimensions, as well as all other parameters can be adjusted based on your preferences and needs;
• the ability to control the quality of the finished product at the exit;
• easy to assemble and easy to move.

Minor, but still disadvantages, are the following:

• time spent;
• the need for independent selection of materials;
• If it is necessary to assemble a structure more than 2 meters high, outside help may be needed.

We select materials

Now let's get down to how to select materials. This is an important part of the process, since it determines how high-quality and durable the structure will be. Assembly begins from the base, and let's start with the selection of materials for this element.

Base

This element is made from wooden blocks or boards, so the wood must be of high quality. The height of the boards should be at least 10 cm, in addition, you need to take into account the fact that the weight of the base affects how easily the greenhouse can be moved. Focus on the arithmetic average; this will make it easy to move the structure if necessary and, at the same time, will not allow external factors, such as strong wind, to move it without your desire.

Frame

For forming the frame of a greenhouse or greenhouse, fiberglass reinforcement is best suited from both a practical and economic point of view. You can build a greenhouse using this building material without spending a lot of time, effort and, last but not least, money. Composite fiberglass reinforcement is ideal for forming the frame (dome) of a greenhouse or greenhouse due to its flexibility, yet strength and lightness. Other advantages of fiberglass reinforcement

also largely contribute to giving preference to it. You can use ordinary fiberglass rods or special arcs that are made for these purposes. You can even replace them with reinforced composite mesh, this will make the process even faster and more convenient.

Sheathing

In the previous article

We have already written that polyethylene film is most often used as cladding. This option is more accessible and easier to use. The material must be dense enough and have some degree of transparency to allow sunlight to pass through.

Assembling a greenhouse

The assembly process is not difficult and will require minimal effort from you. After purchasing all the necessary materials and preparing the site on which the structure will be located, you can begin the assembly itself.

1. First of all, we connect the base of wooden blocks together. This can be done in different ways: using a hammer and nails, using assembly glue, etc. Choose the one that is most convenient for you. We install the base in the desired place.

1. Next, we determine the required length of the reinforcing bars and cut them using a hacksaw. We deepen the rods into the ground by at least 30 cm, and then fasten them to the base with special clamps or a construction stapler.

1. Using longitudinal reinforcement, we connect all sections to each other, running rods along the top of transverse arcs along the entire length of the structure. If necessary, you can do the same on the sides.
2. If your greenhouse has a door, then you need to install a section under it.
3. Finally, we cover the frame with film. Below we fix it to the wooden base with a stapler. It can be attached to the reinforcing bars with a construction gun, stapler, or done manually without damaging the sheathing.

This completes the process of assembling a greenhouse with your own hands from fiberglass reinforcement. The only thing left for you to do is to use your product for its intended purpose by planting your favorite vegetables and plants there))

Foundation for a greenhouse made of reinforcement

Yes! A greenhouse made of reinforcement is mounted on a foundation, since heavy weight will lead to shrinkage into the ground. This is not a problem, but gradually cracks in the film and disruption of the integrity of the frame are possible, even to the point of collapse.

The foundation is created based on reinforcement with steel rods with a diameter of 12 mm. A cross section of 8 mm is used for the frame. But for a small greenhouse, what about a large structure?

Differences between the foundation for a large greenhouse:

• In this case, a strip foundation is used;
• Depth of at least 0.8 - 1 meter. The minimum width is 20 cm. This will save approximately 10% of the heat;
• In the northern regions, the depth is calculated based on the maximum freezing of the soil;
• For insulation, the trench is lined with sheets of foam plastic.

A simple method of foundation in stages:

• A trench with the required dimensions is prepared;
• Formwork is made with a height of 10 - 15 cm. Suitable: plywood, chipboard sheets or boards with a thickness of 25 mm. The upper part is leveled;
• Reinforcing mesh and frame sections are installed;
• The first layer of concrete with a thickness of 20 - 25 cm is poured. 2 - 3 pours are required. To avoid voids, each approach is carefully compacted.

Important: In this case, it is not profitable to send stones or crushed bricks into the trench, as this will reduce the strength of the foundation.

It doesn't look easy. Let's assume we've dealt with this, what to do next. The foundation is the most difficult, but important stage, since this will help avoid the fate of a thatched house. The rest of the work on constructing a greenhouse from rebar with your own hands is much easier.

CALCULATION OF THE REQUIRED QUANTITY OF MATERIALS FOR A GREENHOUSE

In our garden plot there are six-meter and three-meter beds 45 cm high and 70 cm wide. Below are materials for six-meter greenhouses. It is assembled from two 3-meter ones.

I chose this option as it is more difficult to use. The photographs show how the covering material is joined and the greenhouse opens and closes even on such long beds.

Required tools and materials

To make it, you will need a regular tool that every gardener has. I partially bought the necessary materials, and some came in handy from the remnants of previous works.

For work you will need the following tools and materials:

1. A hacksaw or grinder for cutting fiberglass reinforcement.
2. A screwdriver or drill with a drill bit with a diameter of 6 - 7 mm.
3. Roulette.
4. Household scissors for cutting wire and cord
5. Self-tapping screws 50 mm – 26 pcs.
6. Cord with a diameter of 5mm – 32m.
7. Soft wire for twisting reinforcement joints with a diameter of 1 - 2 mm - 6 m. I took it from a regular electric reel. Easy to cut with utility scissors
8. Fiberglass reinforcement with a diameter of 6 mm, a total of 46 m. ​​Pay attention to the quality. In low-quality reinforcement with a weak polymer coating, the fiberglass quickly begins to “fluff”. When touched with a bare hand, it is easy to get small glass splinters, like from glass wool. And you shouldn’t take large-diameter fittings. It will be difficult to bend.
9. Covering material or polyethylene film 215cm wide, total 6.3m. I used what I had on hand - packaging film with pimples. But she is not persistent. It wears out quickly and deteriorates in the sun. Nevertheless, we had enough for the season. This year I repaired it with clear tape and am using it again.
10. Dense material 8cm wide, 13m in total. Will be hemmed to the covering material for pipe insertion.
11. Polyethylene or polypropylene pipes, diameter 2 - 2.5 cm, total -13 m.

Prices for fiberglass reinforcement in our city are 650 – 700 rubles. per reel of 50 m. A polypropylene pipe, 20 mm in diameter and 2 m long, costs from 40 rubles. Covering material spunbond white 30 g/m2, width 3.2 m from 35 rubles per linear meter. Cord from 2 rubles per meter.

Frame for a greenhouse made of reinforcement

Finally, we are approaching completion and obtaining the finished state of the greenhouse. To fasten the reinforcement and form a durable frame, you can weld rods or use knitting wire. To avoid damaging your legs, it is worth installing further from the foundation.

Stages of work:

• Arches are assembled using reinforcing bars. The depth of the foundation and bearing capacity are taken into account. The required height is determined. Depends on the height of the owners. Less is more profitable, but bending down is not very good for your back and health. That’s why we create comfortable working conditions;
• The finished structure can be transferred to the foundation. Welding is performed on the basis of horizontal crossbars;
• The distance between the arches is maintained at 40 - 50 cm.

If it’s too difficult, you can watch a video example based on the master’s work. Many incomprehensible moments will become simple.

PREPARATORY WORK

We cut reinforcement and other materials to the required size:

• • Reinforcement for arches - 13 pcs. 1.7 m each.
• • Reinforcement for longitudinal fastenings – 6 pcs. 3.15 m each.
• • Reinforcement for stops for holding rolled up covering material - 6 pcs. 70 -80cm each.
• • Covering material - 2 pieces measuring 215 x 320 cm.
• • Pipes – 4 pcs., length 320cm.
• • Dense material for inserting pipes - 4 pcs., 8cm x 320cm.
• • Soft wire with a diameter of 1-2 mm - 40 pieces, 15 - 20 cm long.
• • Cord with a diameter of 5 mm – 13 pcs., 240 cm long.

We fold the dense material in half and sew the long end of the covering material (320cm) inside. We do the same on the other side.

Sheathing the frame (step by step)

This is an equally important issue, since it directly affects the microclimate inside the greenhouse. As a rule, simple models use film, polymer or cellular plastic.

But after it went on sale, cellular polycarbonate began to be perceived as an excellent alternative to expensive glass. This material transmits sunlight well, is resistant to moisture and mechanical stress, and will last at least 20 years.

What is holding back the popularity of cellular polycarbonate:

• When exposed to intense heat or fire, it is subject to melting and rapid deformation. The material deteriorates and the greenhouse is unsuitable for use;
• The increased cost in comparison with other suitable materials is deterrent.

Therefore, film is more often used, since it is easier to install and attracts an affordable cost.

Film types:

1. Unstabilized version. It can transmit around 80% of the heat of our star. But the reduced strength will require annual replacement.
2. Hydrophilic membrane transparent film. Excellent transmission of solar energy, strength, elasticity and impact resistance. Due to the peculiarity of the material, drops of condensate flow down the side, which promotes the development of plants. The material retains heat well.
3. Heat-retaining polyethylene. Excellently maintains a temperature increased by 1-3 degrees. Provides an increase in harvest volume by 20-30%. But the minimum strength will require replacement after 9 months.
4. Reinforced polyethylene. Virtually no deformation. Therefore, it can be used for 2 seasons. But it blocks the sun's rays.
5. Polyvinyl chloride film. It is resistant to external influences. Serves up to 6 years.

Options for assembling a small greenhouse

Foundation diagram for a greenhouse.
The greenhouse can be installed on a wooden box enclosing an area of ​​3x1.5 m, and door awnings can be attached to it on one of the long sides. The structure can be easily lifted and, placing a support under the frame, you can work in the garden bed.

The frame of a temporary greenhouse can be made from only two elements. These will be 2 edged boards with a section of 40x100 mm. To build a three-meter greenhouse, it is enough to buy one board of standard (6 m) length and cut it in half. Both halves are laid parallel to each other. Holes for rods are drilled in them along the edges and every 500 mm. To make the structure more rigid, one fiberglass rod must be fixed perpendicular to the arcs on both sides of the greenhouse. You can tie the reinforcement with steel wire or nylon ties.

The base of a temporary greenhouse can be assembled from polyethylene sewer pipes with a cross-section of 50 to 100 mm. They are connected using rectangular fittings. Holes for reinforcement are also drilled in the long sides of the frame. The film is secured with clamps made from pieces of pipes of the same diameter sawn lengthwise.

If the greenhouse is built in one place every year, then you can do without a wooden frame by driving several steel pipes parallel to each other into the ground, the inner diameter of which allows fiberglass rods to be inserted into them. Before installing the tubes, you need to drive in 4 pegs and pull 2 ​​threads between the pairs. After this, the tubes are driven into the ground opposite each other along the extended cords. It is not practical to build large-area greenhouses in this way, since access to the bed will be provided only from the end sides. It is better to press the film from the ends with some heavy objects.

Covering a greenhouse with film

To do this, they rely on two main methods. Therefore, let’s take a closer look at how this is done.

Clips

For this purpose, special places are made in the greenhouse. The clamps are made from bent sheet steel. A rubber gasket is suitable for fixation, as this will increase the service life of the film.

Coarse mesh

Can be stretched both inside and outside the greenhouse. In fact, the film ends up between two meshes. Therefore, it is a reliable and durable option.

• Based on the strength of the reinforcement frame and properly selected film, you can get a good harvest at any time of the year.
• As we understand, installation is easy, the main thing is to make a foundation.
• All that remains is the installation of a door to enter the interior space and ventilation, supplying electricity for lighting and automation of watering.

Now we understand what types of greenhouses made of reinforcement are and what the foundation is used for. We looked at the stages of creating and covering the frame.

All that remains is to choose a cultivated plant to grow. But it’s worth staying in one direction, since any combination is not beneficial.

GREENHOUSE OPERATING MODES.

This greenhouse can be used in several modes.

The first mode, when it is completely closed, is used in cold weather.

The second mode is for ventilation. We remove the end walls. We use it in warmer times. And also during hardening and adaptation of seedlings to sunlight.

Sowing and early growing of plants is usually done at home. Most apartments have three- to five-layer plastic windows, which do not allow all ultraviolet rays to pass through. And not all people have windows facing the sunny side.

If you immediately put the plants outside, you can burn them. Therefore, it is better to adapt seedlings to street lighting gradually.

Third mode. We lift the covering material from one, usually the shadow side. This allows you to increase the illumination of the plantings and at the same time does not harm them.

At will, sunny or shady, windy or leeward. To do this, we screw it onto the pipe and place it on the protruding ends of the stop fittings. We twist directly with the ropes.

It is usually used for shading plants in the spring, when it is hot during the day and the seedlings are not yet adapted to direct sunlight. In this case, we open only the shadow side. And there will be more light in the garden bed and it won’t burn the plants.

Fourth mode - both sides are open. The top remains open.

Used for shading in hot weather in summer or when hail is likely.

Fifth mode. The covering material is rolled up and lies on the supports. To cover the plants, the twist is pulled out beyond the stops and unfolds itself under the weight of the pipes. Loops of ropes on both sides are put on screws. The greenhouse is covered and strengthened.

This takes a maximum of 2 minutes. I usually only use 5 - 6 ropes. This is enough to reliably protect plants even in moderately strong winds.

Thus, the greenhouse operates throughout the growing season, from early spring to late autumn. It is designed in height for medium-sized plants. Last year tomatoes were grown here. They reaped a good harvest. The fruits ripened even in October.

For the winter, I put the reinforcement and covering material in the garage. The design can be disassembled quickly. We cut off the wire twists of the reinforcement. When you pull the ends of the arcs out of the boards, they straighten on their own. We tie the reinforcement into a bundle. We twist the covering material together with the inserted pipes and ropes into a roll. So it doesn’t take up much space when disassembled.

In the spring, too, much time is not required for installation. The recesses for the arches are already drilled and the screws on the bed are already screwed in. They stuck the reinforcement into the boards of the bed, tied it with wire, and unrolled the covering material. The ropes are already in place. Place their ends on screws. All is ready!

On our site, the beds are standardized. Therefore, the structure can be easily placed on any other bed. This allows for crop rotation. That is, tomatoes can be grown in the same greenhouse on another bed where, for example, carrots grew in the previous season.

Photos of ready-made greenhouse options made from rebar

DIY GREENHOUSE IN 15 MINUTES from fiberglass reinforcement.

Georgy Kuzubov writes: Brilliant! and I got confused with the 6th rod! there are all sorts of templates... be amazed at how simple it is! +++++

Kuzmich St. Petersburg writes: What is the length of your rods?

Satro Satro writes: Thickness of the rods?

Georgy Kuzubov writes: Brilliant! and I got confused with the 6th rod! there are all sorts of templates... be amazed at how simple it is! +++++

Kuzmich St. Petersburg writes: What is the length of your rods?

It is best to choose a gable roof for a greenhouse. It is easier to install and snow will not accumulate on its slopes in winter. It is easier to attach films, polycarbonate, and glass to such a structure. To do this, you need a rafter system, which can also be built from wood. To make rafters, you can use a beam or board with a cross-section of 10x4 cm. The rafter structures are assembled on the ground and then mounted on the top of the greenhouse. Two rafter legs assembled into a single truss should resemble the letter “A”. They are installed one by one, securing each with temporary jibs.

After the last structure is installed, all the trusses are fastened together with ridge boards, which are nailed to both slopes of the roof. Lathing is sewn along the rafters, the pitch of which is selected depending on what material is planned to be used as a translucent roof.

Assembly technology

The process of building a greenhouse with your own hands is quite simple. If we consider the assembly technology in stages, it is as follows:

• We prepare the necessary materials and equipment;
• Next, you need to prepare the area for assembling the greenhouse - level the ground surface, remove stones, roots and other debris;
• We bring the tree to the site, unroll the film;
• then we fasten the boards so that we get a rectangular base;
• we install and strengthen the support on the surface of the earth;
• now we cut the reinforcement into pieces of the same length (you can use roofing scissors to cut the profile);
• we bury pieces of reinforcement one by one into the ground inside the support to a depth of about 30 cm, then attach them to wooden beams using a stapler or other accessible method;
• we strengthen the support with ridge reinforcement (the rods are attached longitudinally in the form of a mesh);
• next you need to install sections with doors and windows (if any);
• Now we are once again checking the reliability of the structure, additionally strengthening weak points;
• Finally, we stretch the covering (film), fix it with a stapler from below to the support and in places of contact with the reinforcement.

Now the prefabricated temporary greenhouse is ready. A stationary winter structure is installed according to the same principle, only double-glazed windows are used as a covering.

Rules for placing greenhouses and greenhouses

To place a greenhouse on a site, it is necessary to choose a place to which large amounts of manure can be transported and subsequently removed. For a greenhouse, it is very important that the slope of the glazed frames be oriented towards the sunny side. Considering that when constructing a greenhouse, soil is excavated in large quantities, a place for this is chosen with a deep soil layer.

For a country greenhouse under film, it is not very important which side it faces the sun, because the light passes to the plants from all sides equally. It is only important that it does not end up in a place where it is shaded by another, higher structure. It is irrational to place it under trees, since their branches will also absorb a significant amount of sunlight.

A great danger to crops in film shelters comes from high groundwater, which can contribute to rotting of plant roots and waterlogging of the air. It is necessary to choose a place on a summer cottage where groundwater is far from the soil surface.