Moskvichka pear is one of the best varieties for the middle zone

Pear is one of the favorite and tasty fruits that many gardeners grow on their plots. Their fruits are nutritious, sweet and tasty, they can be eaten fresh, made into jam, jam, compotes, and dried.

Currently, breeders have developed a large number of new varieties of this fruit tree, and sometimes novice gardeners find it difficult to choose the ones they need for their garden. And you have to read articles about each pear variety in order to understand their characteristics, advantages, disadvantages, and cultivation nuances in order to select the best pears.

History of variety development

The Moskvichka pear was bred by breeders S. T. Chizhov and S. P. Potapov from the Agricultural Academy named after K. A. Timiryazev in the last quarter of the last century. During the selection process, these specialists carried out open pollination of the ancient American Kieffer pear.

This method most often gives unpredictable results, but this time a wonderful variety of pear was developed, called Moskvichka - after the name of the region in which it was recommended to grow it. From the parent variety, the pear received an early start of fruiting and high yield, and the taste and frost resistance of Moskvichka turned out to be even better than that of Kieffer.

Although the Moskvichka variety was bred in the 80s of the last century, it was added to the State Register of Russia only in 2001. Initially, it was recommended to grow this fruit tree only in the Moscow region, but later it was successfully grown on their garden plots by summer residents in the Middle Volga, Volga-Vyatka and Central regions.

Selection of seedlings

Growing the Muscovite pear variety is not difficult, the main thing is to choose the right planting material. For this, it is better to give preference to two-year-old trees. In addition, do not forget that you should purchase seedlings from specialized nurseries that offer zoned varieties.

Before purchasing a seedling, you should carefully examine it, namely:

• the root system should not be dry or damaged;
• the bark on the trunk and branches should be green;
• the leaves on the seedling should not be dry, and the sprout itself should not be damaged.

But also pay attention to the kidneys, they should not be dry or damaged

Main characteristics of the variety

This pear is classified as a standard type, so the growth of this tree is average. The crown has a conical shape with an average formation of well-leafed shoots. Skeletal branches grow obliquely and vertically. The shoots have an average growth rate, they are slightly curved, with average thickness, internodes are of average length. The color of the bark near the central trunk is brown with a gray tint, while that of the skeletal branches and shoots is brown.

The foliage is medium in size, oval, with a slight bend, smooth, shiny, with small jagged edges. The color of the leaf blades is rich emerald. This pear begins to bloom abundantly around the second half of May. The flowers are quite small, with oval white petals. They are collected in corymbose-type inflorescences, each of which contains at least 5-7 pieces.

Moscow pear is an early autumn variety - these trees are harvested from the first days of September to the last days of October. One of the advantages of the variety is approximately the same size of ripening pears and the same weight - about 115-125 g. With good care, many fruits can reach a weight of 2110-220 g. But their shape is not very neat, broadly pear-shaped.

Description of the fruit

The skin is dense but thin, when fully ripe it is green with an orange tint, underneath it contains a large number of dots, and rustiness is also clearly visible. The pulp is slightly compacted, very juicy, fine-grained, white in color.

The taste of the fruit is sweet, with a characteristic sourness, the aroma is pleasant, typically fruity. Based on the quality and taste of the fruit, this pear is classified as a dessert variety, so ripe fruits are mainly used fresh for food.

The amount of sugars in 100 grams of product is up to 9.6%, organic acids – up to 0.45%. The tasting assessment of ripe fruits by specialists is 4.7 points out of 5 possible.

The harvested crop tolerates transportation well at different distances; at room temperature it can be stored for up to 12-14 days, and at a temperature of 0 degrees Celsius - up to 2.5-3 months. It is preferable to collect the fruits 12-14 days before full ripening and put them in a cool place for ripening.

The advantages of this variety include the fact that even unfavorable weather conditions do not affect its growth and fruiting. The fruits are tightly attached to the stalk and are not prone to falling off even after full ripening.

Moskvichka pear has good resistance to frost - it can withstand cold temperatures down to -19-21 degrees Celsius.

Pollinator trees

The Muscovite pear is self-sterile, therefore, without the presence of nearby pollinating trees with the same flowering periods, its yield is negligible. The best varieties for this pear are:

• Otradnenskaya;
• Yakovlev's favorite;
• Dressy Efimova;
• Marble;
• Lada.

Otradnenskaya

Yakovlev's favorite

Marble
Usually, Moskvichka pear and pollinating varieties are planted simultaneously, so that in the future they begin bearing fruit simultaneously.

Productivity

Moskvichka pear is distinguished by early fruiting - after planting the seedlings in a permanent place, the first fruiting occurs after 4 seasons. In the future, harvests can be harvested annually; at least 36-38 kg of ripe produce is removed from each tree.

Diseases and pests

The variety is characterized by good resistance to the main diseases that affect other varieties of pear trees:

• fruit rot;
• brown spot;
• scab.

At the beginning of spring, before the buds open, you can carry out preventive treatment of the above-ground part of the pear against major diseases, including fungal ones. You can use a urea solution for this, diluting 700 g of the drug in 10 liters of water, or take copper or iron sulfate, diluting 150 g of the product in 10 liters of water.

Advantages and disadvantages

The main advantages of this pear tree include:

• ripe fruits - dessert type;
• early fruiting of the variety;
• fruiting is stable;
• productivity is quite high;
• even fully ripened fruits are not prone to falling off;
• excellent presentation and taste;
• the harvested crop tolerates transportation well at any distance;
• ripe pears can be stored in appropriate conditions for up to several months;
• high immunity to some diseases of fruit trees;
• Moskvichka pear is resistant to negative changes in weather conditions.

Experts include the following obvious disadvantages of this fruit tree:

• the pear is self-sterile, so pollinating trees are needed;
• resistance to cold – average;
• practically does not withstand periods of drought.

Pollinators of Moskvich pear

The description of the variety states that it is self-sterile. This means that in the absence of pollinating trees growing nearby, the ovary will not form or no more than 4% of the flowers will be fertilized.

Among the varieties of fruit crops, a variety that forms 15–40% of fruits from the total number of flowers can be considered self-fertile, and 0–4% is self-fertile.
Partially self-fertile varieties include varieties that have intermediate indicators S. Orlova, Candidate of Biological Sciences, A. Yushev, Doctor of Biological Sciences, All-Russian Research Institute of Plant Growing named after.
N. I. Vavilova, St. Petersburg Garden and vegetable garden No. 3, 2009

According to the All-Russian Research Institute for Breeding Fruit Crops, the best pollinators for Moskvichka are the varieties Bergamot Moskovsky and Lyubimitsa Yakovleva. There is no information in the sources about other possible pollinating varieties.

Experts believe that cross-pollination can occur between varieties whose flowering dates coincide at least partially and overlap each other for 5–7 days. Since the description notes that Moskvichka blooms later, it can be assumed that varieties released in the same regions with similar autumn and late autumn ripening periods will be suitable as pollinators for it. Of these we can name:

• Autumn: Velesa, Thumbelina, Beauty Chernenko, Elegant Efimova, Autumn Yakovleva, Memory of Zhegalov.
• Late autumn: Alyonushka, Selyanka, Otradnenskaya.

Landing

When planting this pear in the autumn, you need to carry out this activity in mid-October. In this case, the trees will have good resistance to cold as a result. When planting seedlings in the spring, it is necessary to plant trees at the end of April; over the summer the trees will take root well and become stronger.

It is best to purchase two-year-old seedlings for planting: they have a well-formed root system, and the trees quickly acclimatize to a new location. The height of the central trunk of such plants is about 0.75 m, the length of the roots is about 15 cm.

When preparing trees for planting, it is necessary to trim the roots that are too large, leaving them no more than 20 cm long, shorten the shoots to 0.8 m, and also remove the top and tear off all the foliage. It is also necessary to remove all broken, damaged shoots.

The place for planting a pear tree should be well lit by sunlight, protected from cold winds and strong drafts. These seedlings grow better on sandy and loamy loose soils that are well fertilized. Groundwater should lie in the soil at a depth of at least 3.5-4 m.

The pits for planting these trees are prepared in about 14-16 days. Its diameter is 0.85-1 m, depth is at least 1 m. A nutrient substrate is added to each hole:

• 2.5 buckets of humus;
• 2.5 buckets of sand;
• 30 g superphosphate;
• 50 g potassium sulfate;
• 2 kg organics.

Then a layer of garden soil is added so that the roots of the tree do not come into contact with the nutrient substrate; a solution of dolomite flour is added (300 g of the drug is diluted in 10 liters of water). Then 20 liters of water are poured into each hole.

A support is driven in near the center of the hole; in the center a mound is made from the soil on which the tree is placed. The roots are carefully straightened along the slopes of the mound so that they do not intertwine with each other. The root collar must be raised above the soil level by 5.5-6 cm.

The hole is filled with garden soil, compacted layer by layer so that air spaces do not form near the roots. At least 30 liters of water are poured under each tree. The seedling is tied to a support.

Pests, diseases and protection against them

Moskvichka pear is resistant to such common pear diseases as scab and fruit rot. But you need to be wary of other, no less serious, diseases.

Table: pear diseases and their treatment

Table: pear pests and their control

Photo gallery: pests and diseases

The leaves curl into tubes. The caterpillars of this butterfly damage the fruits.

Not only damages shoots, but also attracts sooty fungus

A sign of rust infection is multiple stains.

The fungus affects the leaves and sometimes the fruits of the pear

Feeding

They begin to apply fertilizers to the pear tree trunks a year after planting.

Fertilizer application scheme:

• in early spring, for each square of the tree trunk circle, 30 g of ammonium nitrate should be added for digging;
• in the autumn, fertilizers are applied once every 2 seasons. In this case, you can use 3 tbsp. l. superphosphate, or a bucket of compost (or humus), 30 g of potassium sulfate.

Trimming

Proper pruning promotes the formation of the pear crown, improves fruiting, and strengthens the tree itself. When forming the crown, the central and lateral shoots are shortened to the same length, while the central trunk should be higher than the lateral and skeletal branches.

When sanitary pruning requires removing most of the branches growing inside the crown, cutting off weak, diseased, damaged, dry shoots. During one pruning procedure, you cannot remove more than all the shoots so as not to weaken the tree.

Features of cultivation and subtleties of care

Of course, in order to grow any tree, you need to make some effort. Moskvichka pear will not require anything extraordinary in care. To grow it, it is enough to have standard knowledge of agricultural technology of fruit crops.

Watering

This important stage of pear care consists of regular watering, ensuring constant soil moisture in the root zone. Usually, watering is started in the spring if precipitation at this time is not frequent enough. As a rule, water the pear tree first before flowering, and then during the season at intervals of 3-4 weeks. The amount of water consumed in this case should be sufficient to moisten the soil around the tree trunk to a depth of 25–35 centimeters. Often, gardeners, having loosened the soil after the first watering, mulch it with hay, humus, rotted sawdust, sunflower husks, etc. Subsequently, the tree is watered through a layer of this mulch without further loosening the soil. It is convenient, saves time and effort. Only sometimes you need to monitor the condition of the mulch, because slugs, beetles and other pests can gather in it. Once discovered, they should be collected and destroyed. It is advisable to free the tree trunk circle from mulch and dry it. At the next watering, you can resume mulching. Not forgetting about the tendency of the pear to dampen the roots and trunk, you should protect them with an earthen roller from direct contact with water when watering.

Mulch the soil after watering

Feeding

An equally important stage of care is feeding. After all, if a pear does not have enough food or water, it often simply drops ovaries or fruits. Therefore, after three to four years after planting (until this time there is still enough nutrition stored in the planting hole), they begin to apply additional fertilizers.

Table: when and what to fertilize a pear

Trimmings

This is the third on the list, but not least important, stage of caring for a pear.

Shaping the crown of the Moskvichka pear

Due to the medium-sized tree, it is better to form the Moskvichka crown like an improved bowl. This method allows you to better illuminate the inside of the crown and create good ventilation. This also makes it easier to care for and harvest. It is easier to carry out such a formation than a sparse-tiered one. Even a novice gardener can do this if he follows the following instructions:

1. We remind you that the first shaping step is performed when planting a seedling, as described above.
2. 1–2 years after planting, in early spring before the onset of sap flow, 3–4 strong branches are selected on the trunk. They should be 15–20 centimeters apart from each other and grow in different directions. These branches will become skeletal. They are cut to a third of their length.
3. All remaining branches are cut into a ring.
4. The central conductor is cut above the base of the upper skeletal branch.
5. After another one or two years, when the skeletal branches begin to overgrow, you should select two second-order branches on each of them. The distance between them should be within 50–60 centimeters. They are shortened by 50%, and the remaining branches that grew on the skeletal ones are removed in the same way “in a ring”.
6. In other years, the length of the branches is maintained at approximately the same level. We must not allow any of them to become dominant and take on the role of the central conductor - this sometimes happens.

   It is better to form the Muscovite crown in the form of an improved bowl

Regulatory trimming

Muscovite is prone to excessive thickening. Because of this feature, it requires frequent crown thinning. Most likely, this will have to be done every spring. At the same time, part of the branches growing inside the crown is cut out, creating good ventilation and lighting. But you should know when to stop - excessive pruning deprives part of the harvest, since flower buds are also located on the inner branches.

Video: Dmitry Reznikov’s method of pruning pears

Maintenance pruning

To maintain fruiting at the proper level, maintenance pruning is required. In summer, during the period of increased growth of young shoots, they are shortened by 5–10 centimeters, which leads to the appearance of additional overgrowing branches on them. It is on such branches that flower buds are laid that produce a harvest. This relatively simple method gives good results, but more experienced gardeners use another method, which consists of replacing fruit-bearing shoots with replacement shoots. This method is widely used when pruning grapes.

Experienced gardeners use a method that involves replacing fruit-bearing shoots with replacement shoots

Sanitary pruning

This simplest type of pruning involves the removal of dry, diseased and damaged branches. It is carried out in late autumn, after sap flow has stopped. If necessary, repeat earlier in the spring.

Rules for pruning

These rules apply to all types of pruning. They should be followed so as not to harm the tree.

• It is necessary to use only sharply sharpened tools (secateurs, loppers, knives, saws).
• When performing work, the tool must be disinfected with a 1% solution of copper sulfate (hydrogen peroxide, alcohol, etc. can be used). You cannot use petroleum products for this - gasoline, kerosene, solvent, etc.
• When cutting off entire branches, you should not leave twigs or stumps - they will later become a source of infections.
• When removing thick branches, you need to do this in parts, in several steps.
• All cuts are cleaned with a sharp knife and covered with garden varnish. This rule does not need to be applied to branches with a diameter of less than ten millimeters.

When choosing a garden pitch, you should not settle on one that contains petrolatum or other petroleum products. Experienced gardeners indicate that this is harmful to the plant. There are compositions based on beeswax, lanolin and other biological materials - they should be given preference.

Reviews

Kristina, 45 years old, Ryazan region : It’s not for nothing that this variety of pear has been praised to me - it has been growing on my plot for 6 seasons, two of which are actively bearing fruit. I use ripe fruits to make jam and cover compotes - they turn out sweet and aromatic. And we put part of the harvest into storage - pears are stored in the cellar for at least 3.5 months.

Olga, 34 years old, Bologoe : you are absolutely delighted with this variety of pear. Abundant, stable fruiting, grows well, without requiring complex care. But during the growth and fruiting of this pear, I never use fertilizers containing nitrogen.

Maria, 50 years old, Penza region : this variety has been bearing fruit in my garden for the third season. The fruits grew even, approximately the same size and weight, sweet and juicy. The Muscovite pear was practically not damaged by frost, I recommend it to other gardeners for cultivation.

Harvesting

Pears of this variety are uneven, weigh on average 120 g and have a wide pear-shaped shape. The ripe fruit on the tree acquires a yellowish tint; inside it is white with granulation near the seed chamber. The taste of pears is sweet and sour, rich, aromatic.

The average weight of the Moskvichka fruit is 120 g

The harvest of this variety is stored for a long time: in the refrigerator for up to 100 days, and in room conditions for about 3 weeks. To increase the period, you can remove the pears from the tree while they are still green. The fruits will ripen during storage and acquire the necessary sweetness.

Muscovite pears are consumed both fresh (they are good for digestion and immunity) and processed, making compotes, jams, jams, and candied fruits from them. Just don’t freeze the fruits, as this will cause them to lose their taste.

You can make tasty and healthy candied fruits from pears