When and how to properly graft apricots in spring, summer and autumn

Vaccination time in spring

In the spring, apricot can be grafted both during the period of bud dormancy and with the beginning of sap flow, but the specific timing depends on which grafting method is chosen. If you take cuttings before the buds break, there is a risk that they will freeze. Therefore, in cold climates and the Moscow region, it is wiser to prepare cuttings in the fall and store them until the onset of spring. The apricot grafting itself in regions further south can already be carried out in the last week of March, in the middle zone - from April until the first weeks of May. The main guideline here is the weather conditions and the condition of the trees.

When to graft an apricot?

The timing of vaccination largely determines its effectiveness. In each season, the procedure has its own characteristics and depends on the stage of the plant’s growing season.

The optimal period for grafting operations, according to experts, is considered to be early spring, when nutrients begin to move up the trunk. The specific timing of vaccination depends on the climatic conditions of the region and ranges from early March to mid-April.

When choosing the day of spring vaccination, pay attention to the thermometer readings

You can determine the best time for spring apricot grafting yourself. It is permissible to proceed with the procedure if all 3 conditions are met:

1. The threat of return frosts has passed.
2. The air temperature during the day rises above 6 °C and does not fall below 0 at night.
3. The buds on the tree are swollen.

A popular saying says: when the ground thaws two shovels deep, it’s time to start grafting stone fruit crops.

Summer grafting of apricots is also practiced quite often. It is carried out during the period of the second sap flow - from the end of July to the third ten days of August. The readiness of a tree for surgery is determined by the degree of separation of the bark from the wood during an incision. If the cortex comes off well, you can begin transplantation. In summer, green cuttings serve as scion, which is one of the advantages of grafting during this period.

In the fall, apricot trees are rarely grafted and only by residents of southern regions with warm, mild winters. The deadline for completing the procedure is September 15, so that before the first frost the cuttings have time to partially take root with the rootstock. Experienced gardeners additionally protect the grafting site from freezing with a special shelter in the form of a sleeve made of wrapping paper, filled with sawdust and wrapped in polyethylene.

In autumn, apricots are grafted only in regions with warm winters.

In the middle zone and in the northern regions, it is not recommended to plant apricots in the fall for two reasons:

1. During this period, all the plant’s energies are aimed at preparing for wintering. Surgical intervention will affect the life cycle of the plant, as a result of which the tree may suffer significant damage due to frost.
2. The graft may freeze in harsh winter conditions, and all efforts will be in vain.

Winter grafting of apricot is also possible. It is usually carried out in February indoors and requires preliminary preparation of the rootstock and scion. Due to its labor-intensive nature and the need to create special conditions for storing seedlings, grafting is practiced in winter mainly in nurseries.

What to choose as a rootstock

The choice of rootstock is a decisive moment, since it is responsible for the further life of the seedling. Both wild and cultivated plants are chosen as a rootstock; the main thing here is the compatibility between the trees.

Rules for choosing a rootstock

The rootstock must be adapted to the climatic conditions of the area and have a developed root system: a weak root is not able to provide the scion with sufficient nutrition. You also need to know that a tree older than 7 years is no longer suitable as a rootstock, since the tissues become loose and lose their former elasticity, which interferes with survival. A dark brown, black tint of the woody composition indicates freezing, which is also not suitable for a rootstock.

Grafting apricot onto apricot (apricot)

Grafting apricot onto apricot is considered suitable, which is enhanced when similar varieties are combined. Ideally, they should be the same. This accelerates fruiting by 2-3 years: a grafted tree bears fruit already in 2-3 years, while a fresh seedling will bear fruit in 4-5 years.

You can also graft an apricot onto a seedling grown from the seed, since the seed propagation method does not provide for the transfer of maternal varietal qualities to a new plant. Grafting will give a young apricot the properties of any variety and improve its taste.

Grafting an apricot onto a plum

Tinting apricots for plums provides several advantages. The main one is an increase in frost resistance, which is important for the northern regions. The second positive aspect of such grafting is the acceleration of fruiting: grafted trees produce fruit within 2-3 years, while ungrafted trees produce fruit within 4-5 years. Plum and apricot are quite compatible, although worse than apricot and apricot.

Apricot grafting onto sloe

Blackthorn is often used as a rootstock, as it is hardy and quickly adapts to any climatic conditions. Another ability of the thorn is to absorb necessary substances from any, even poor soil. There are also disadvantages: the rapid development of roots impairs the access of nutrition to fresh sprouts, and subsequently to the fruits.

Grafting an apricot onto a peach

This option will only be effective in southern areas, since peaches are afraid of even slight drops in temperature. In warm climates, the budding method will allow you to achieve juicy fruits, but apricots on peach dry out quickly.

Are cherry plums and cherries suitable as rootstocks?

Cherry plum is suitable as a rootstock: the resulting tree will soon produce tasty, sweet and juicy fruits. In addition, the cherry plum will transfer its frost-resistant characteristics, and the new plant will be strong and hardy.

Some gardeners try to graft apricot onto cherry and immediately encounter certain difficulties. Not all cherry varieties are suitable as a rootstock, and professional skill is required to achieve this. If the outcome is favorable, cherries will greatly increase the yield of apricots, impart frost-resistant and drought-resistant qualities, and the fruits will be sweet and juicy. Beginning gardeners can be advised to take a plum grafted onto a cherry as a rootstock.

Apricot grafting onto dwarf rootstocks

Grafting an apricot using dwarf rootstocks results in a medium-sized tree, up to three meters. Popular dwarf rootstocks: Persimida, Eureka 99, Druzhba.

Which trees are not suitable for apricot grafting?

There are a number of trees that, despite numerous attempts by innovative breeders, have not yielded any results as a rootstock.

These are trees such as:

• Apple tree;
• pear;
• irga;
• cherries;
• Rowan.

Apple and pear are not suitable, as they are pome trees, while apricot is a stone fruit. Experiments with irga are also useless: despite its frost resistance, it is suitable for apple and pear trees, but not apricot. Rowan belongs to the plum family, but this fact does not in any way affect the success, and all grafting attempts remain unsuccessful. In rare cases of successful experiments, the apricot tree either dies over time or remains infertile.

Thus, having studied all the characteristics of potential rootstocks, we can conclude that plum, cherry plum and sloe will be suitable for this role. These trees are frost-resistant - this is the main thing to consider, given the climate of central Russia. These scions speed up fruiting, increase productivity and allow you to grow tasty, juicy fruits.

What can be grafted onto an apricot?

In turn, on an apricot seedling, in addition to other apricot varieties, you can successfully graft peach and plum.

What trees can apricot be grafted onto and what kind of rootstock should it be?

The most common tree onto which varietal apricot is grafted is its wild one . Ideally, it will be a wild Manchurian apricot.

A varietal apricot grafted onto a wild apricot rootstock usually ends up being very drought-resistant and, most importantly, winter-hardy.

However, cultivated apricot can also be grafted onto an already grafted varietal apricot (i.e. onto an adult tree).

In general, apricots can be grafted exclusively onto stone fruits - plums

(ideal if the soil on the site is acidic)
, cherry plum, blackthorn, and also partly felt cherry
, naturally, exclusively varieties zoned for your climatic zone.

However, according to reviews from many gardeners, 3-4 years after grafting, incompatibility with the listed rootstocks may appear .

Video: how to graft an apricot onto a plum - the 2 easiest methods (by splitting and by improved copulation method)

And the more vaccinations, the greater the chances of success.

Parameters of a good rootstock

Ideally , it is better to use young 1-2 year old seedlings a rootstock ; this is considered the best option for grafting apricots. But older trees are also suitable (in this case, as a rule, they are grafted onto their skeletal branches, but there are exceptions), preferably no older than 10 years.

However, it is worth considering that the survival rate of cuttings (scions) on very old bark (rootstock) is very low.

Naturally, in the conditions of the same central zone (Moscow region) and other cold regions, the most winter-hardy varieties for rootstock .

One-year-old apricots should be grafted as low as possible (5-20 cm from the ground), but two- to three-year-old and older apricots should be grafted onto skeletal branches. Moreover, this must be done not just into the skeleton, but as close as possible to the trunk (20-50 cm). As for the choice of a specific branch, it is better that the rootstock is directed upward or strives for a vertical position, since such branches grow much stronger, which means that the success of the cutting’s survival is significantly increased.

As a rule, annual cuttings (scions) are grafted onto annual shoots (rootstocks), because they are the same diameter.

Scion selection and preparation

Since the graft determines the success of the event, you need to take its preparation responsibly. You need to do this in the fall, before frost. To do this, you should prepare cuttings with a diameter of a pencil and a length of at least 30 centimeters. It is better to take a longer length, and then cut it to the required number of buds - up to two or three. A rootstock with fruit buds is not suitable; only those with vegetative ones are suitable. The grafting material cannot be damaged, so it is necessary to check its quality. You need to pay attention to the cuts: they should be a bright, light green shade. Lightly bending the cutting will confirm its viability as a rootstock; if it bends heavily, it means the material is damaged and you need to take another one.

Also, when choosing a cutting, the following factors are taken into account:

• shoots must be annual and mature;
• It is better to take shoots from the south side, which were exposed to the sun more;
• It is better to choose shoots with short internodes.

Harvesting, storage and preparation of scion

After the rootstocks are cut, you need to save them until spring. The main thing here is to prevent the beginning of the growing season. You will need to lubricate the cuts with garden varnish, wrap them in a damp rag, sawdust or moss and place them in a plastic bag with many pricked holes to eliminate the greenhouse effect. It is necessary to maintain a low temperature within 0-+4 degrees. A cellar, basement, or refrigerator are suitable for this purpose. It is recommended to inspect the cuttings once or twice a month to see if there are any fungi, mold or damage.

Preparation of tools and material

To carry out the vaccination procedure you will need:

• grafting pruner or budding knife;
• special film with a self-destructive effect from ultraviolet rays;
• garden var.

Note: If there is no special grafting tape, you can use insulating tape or one made from cling film. You can also use a stationery knife, the main thing is that it must be sharpened.

Preparation of tools and material

A budding knife is a tool that is difficult to do without. It must have a very sharp blade for perfect, even cuts.

A branded product is highly expensive; for non-professional work, you can get by with a simple pocket knife with a short blade.

The main tool for grafting is a budding knife

In the autumn, a garden pruner, also with well-sharpened blades, will come in handy for preparing cuttings, otherwise the branches will simply be pressed down.

To perform the winding, you can purchase a special tape or cut polyethylene strips of suitable length and width. Some gardeners replace them with electrical tape or tape. Adhesive materials can only be used with the sticky layer on the outside, otherwise there is a risk of bacteria getting into the cut area.

Grafting methods

Today, 130 methods of grafting apricots are known, among which copulation, budding, bark grafting and split grafting are considered popular. The choice is largely determined by the time of year and the skill of the amateur gardener.

Copulation

The copulation method can be used if the diameter of the rootstock and scion matches. It can be used in any season in the following sequence of actions:

1. The ends of the cut shoot and rootstock are cut obliquely by 4 centimeters.
2. The sections are overlapped until the cambial layers coincide.
3. The joint is tightly wrapped with a special film, and the top of the scion cut is smeared with garden varnish.

You can use the improved copulation method, which involves a strong junction of the rootstock and scion, achieved by forming a “tongue” on each of the sections. The shoot is applied to the rootstock so that their “tongues” penetrate into each other’s cuts, ensuring that the cambial layers coincide.

Grafting into the cleft

This method is suitable if the rootstock and scion differ greatly in diameter. Splitting is recommended at the beginning of the growing season: the last weeks of March – the first days of April.

The procedure involves the following steps:

1. The base of the shoot harvested in the fall is cut in two. The rootstock is cut down to the desired height and trimmed.
2. In the central part of the rootstock, a split of about 10 centimeters is made with a sharp ax.
3. The prepared scion is inserted into the splitting site in such a way as to ensure complete coincidence of the donor bark and the cambial layers of the scion.
4. The joint is tightly wrapped with tape and treated with garden varnish.

Note: With the optimal thickness of the rootstock, several cuttings can be grafted at once.

Kidney grafting

Vaccination using the budding method is carried out in the last ten days of August. Here the principle is as follows: the axillary bud is transferred to another tree to transfer varietal characteristics.

The procedure also includes several steps:

1. The buds are prepared before the operation itself by cutting it from the center of an annual shoot with a piece of bark of at least 2 centimeters. Leaves are removed from the bud.
2. A cut is made on the branch of the rootstock in the shape of a “T”. The incision flaps are moved apart and a peephole with a shield is placed there. At the same time, the bark is clamped so that only the bud remains from the outer part.
3. The transplant site is wrapped with grafting tape, leaving the kidney outside.

After about 3 weeks, it will be possible to judge the effectiveness: a yellowed and fallen petiole indicates the success of the operation. The bud will gain strength and grow in the next season.

Vaccination for bark

At the beginning of sap flow, you can graft the bark. This method is suitable when the width of the rootstock exceeds the scion.

The technology is like this:

1. Lignified shoots in the amount of 2-4 pieces are prepared by cutting them with a sharp wedge.
2. The rootstock is carefully cut down and cleaned.
3. The bark of the rootstock is cut crosswise in several places, the cut depth is no more than 5 centimeters.
4. The edges of the cut are moved apart, cuttings are placed there and care is taken that their cuts are tightly adjacent to the rootstock wood.
5. The operation site is tightly tied with tape and lubricated with varnish.

Side cut

A fairly common method involves grafting a shoot from the side into the incision. The rootstock top can be whole or cut into a spike. The thickness of the rootstock in this case does not matter. The side cut is grafted in both spring and summer.

Bridge method

Bridge grafting is carried out in exceptional cases, at the beginning of sap flow, in case of damage to the bark. To carry it out, you can use cuttings, root shoots, and pieces of bark. If the cambium is still preserved, the operation can be simplified. The damaged part is tightly tied with a cloth soaked in garden varnish. By autumn, a new layer of bark will grow under the rag.

If there was damage, more serious technology will be required:

1. The damaged part is cleaned from the previously applied garden varnish and wiped with a wet rag. The edges of the bark are trimmed with a sharp knife without damaging the wood.
2. If the damage is large, 7-10 cuttings will be required. All the buds from them need to be shed, both ends should be cut off at a crooked, sharp angle.
3. Make T-shaped cuts below and above the bare wood.
4. Bend the edges of the cuts and insert the ends of the cut shoots. The sections are inserted tightly, without air space, and the cuttings themselves are pulled out in an arc. You must not confuse the bottom and top of the shoots, otherwise the grafting will not work.
5. The cuttings should be arranged evenly in a circle, by eye. Each shoot is secured with a strip of fabric soaked in garden varnish. Press the same strip tighter and stick another, wider one. Wrap everything on top with washcloth, and lubricate the remaining bare area with garden varnish.

Rootstock selection

Any fruit trees should be grafted onto 4-5 year old rootstocks.
When the trunk thickness is at least 4-12 cm. If apricot grafting is carried out on a weakened, diseased, underdeveloped tree, it can be done at a later age. However, it should be borne in mind that the older the tree, the worse the survival rate and the more difficult it is technically to perform this procedure correctly. It is possible to graft apricot onto a large number of stone fruit crops and obtain a guaranteed positive result. Many studies indicate that grafting on identical tree varieties is particularly successful. Therefore, preference should be given to apricot grafting; in this case, the risk of incompatibility of components is minimal, and the cutting will take root much faster. As a result, the grafted plant will be drought-resistant, winter-resistant, without regrowth, and the fruits will be sweet, large, and brightly colored. Grafting apricot onto peach is often used. However, it is more suitable for southern regions, since peach does not tolerate frost well, and the probability of cuttings dying is very high. Plum, cherry, cherry plum, and sloe are also used as rootstocks.

Grafting an apricot onto a plum

Plum is most often used as a rootstock; this combination of components shows high survival rate and good productivity in the future. In addition, almost no growth is formed at the grafting site, which indicates the high compatibility of the breeds. The most suitable varieties for grafting are semi-wild plums. An apricot cutting grown on a frost-resistant plum rootstock develops well and is also resistant to cold weather and sudden temperature changes.

The video attached at the end of the article shows plum grafting.

Cherry plum grafting

Also widespread among modern gardeners. This is due to several factors. One of which is high and rapid survival rate, higher yields later and a significant improvement in the taste characteristics of the fruit. In addition, today cherry plum is the most fertile and strong rootstock for many stone fruit varieties.

Caring for grafted cuttings

If the grafting is successful, the grafted cuttings are given special care.

• When budding, places with strapping are left for the winter. This protects the eyes from getting wet.
• In the spring, wild birds with grafted eyes are examined. The bandage is removed from the opened eyes, the top of the wild bird is cut off before the sap begins to flow. A shoot grown from the graft is tied to it.
• The first garter is done when the shoot is 10 centimeters long, and the second - after three weeks. This will save the tree from breaking off at the grafting site.
• Wild growth that has grown below the grafting site should be removed. Otherwise, they will suppress cultural shoots, and the work done will be lost.
• With the method, the tops of the shoots from the lower bud are torn off into the splits and behind the bark, and the upper ones are placed vertically, tied to a peg.
• After fusion has occurred, the scion is cut in the spring below the graft site. The rootstock is cut higher - thus obtaining an independent tree. All cuts and the place where the strapping is removed must be covered with garden varnish.
• The tree should be watered, fertilized, and sprayed against pests and diseases. In the summer, in June and July, it is necessary to water the tree.
• Sometimes complete fusion does not occur in the first season. In this case, the plants are not pruned until next year.

Recommendations for the plum grafting procedure

Species compatibility of crops must be observed. Often the rootstock is thicker than the scion, so you need to place cuttings along the edges to ensure complete alignment of the cambial layers. The wedge-pointed surfaces of the scions must be smooth and even to ensure a high density of contact with the rootstock. Typically, the length of the wedge exceeds the thickness of the handle by 3-4 times. The variety is grafted carefully but quickly. This avoids oxidation of the parts of the wood being joined. Do not touch the sections with your hands to avoid infection. Excess risks are removed with gloves and a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate. The optimal time for vaccination in spring and summer is a cloudy morning.

Grafting tools

It doesn’t matter whether you decide to graft a plum onto a cherry tree or onto another tree, you will need a special set of tools:

• a small sharp knife without burrs on the edge;
• garden pitch (wax, PVA glue, plasticine);
• strapping (electrical tape, twine, masking tape);
• covering and sealing material (film, plastic bag).

Proper preparation of cuttings for grafting is impossible without a good cutting tool. Ideally, this is a budding knife with a smooth spine without a bevel or a grafting pruner. It is also recommended to use photodegradable garden film, which slowly dissolves under the influence of UV radiation and does not require subsequent removal from the grafting site.

Is it possible to graft a freshly cut cutting in the spring?

The successful practice of spring grafting with freshly cut scions is possible until the buds break. Otherwise, the normal development of eyes on an unestablished cutting without normal stem nutrition leads to the consumption of internal reserves and rapid death.

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When can you immediately take cuttings for plum grafting?

The cut-and-graft approach has been successful in late spring or summer. For this purpose, exclusively the budding technique (kidney grafting) is used.

Why the best cuttings are harvested in the fall

The scion collected in the fall not only undergoes winter hardening, but is also guaranteed to be in a dormant state. Accelerated development of eyes on a weak cutting is simply impossible. By the time the buds emerge, the grafting site of the plum will have grown together sufficiently to provide the necessary nutrition to the sprout and the buds on it.

Possible mistakes when grafting apricots

Sometimes errors occur that cause the operation to fail.

• The necessary instruments must be processed, since vaccination is a reason for introducing infection. The treatment is carried out with an antiseptic: alcohol, hydrogen peroxide solution or one percent copper sulfate.
• The slices must be fresh and not standby for more than one minute.
• When the humidity is exceeded, grafting cannot be done. The survival rate will be low, and the plant will become sick.
• After the operation, care is required, otherwise the tree will reject the shoot.
• The parts to be fastened must be connected tightly, otherwise the plant will not take root.
• Young game that has grown below the graft must be removed in time, as it absorbs nutrition and prevents the layer from growing stronger.
• Grafted trees must be protected from scorching rays, otherwise it will dry out and not take root.
• Garden pitch should be free of petroleum substances - gasoline, kerosene, solvents. It is better to take compounds with beeswax or lanolin - it is safer for the tree.

Apricot grafting is a necessary operation designed to improve the variety by transferring a number of donor qualities. The described methods are reliable and accessible to a novice gardener.

Find out, in the last article we wrote: how to prune garden blueberries in the fall.

Preparatory work

Before carrying out the procedure, you need to prepare not only the scion and rootstock, but also the necessary tools.

Required materials and tools

To carry out the procedure, you will need a grafting knife, which must be well sharpened so as not to leave creases. You will also need pruning shears and several bars. The coarser one is used for sharpening, and the finer one is used for finishing the blade.

In addition to the knife and bars, you will need strapping material. As a rule, these are compressor or polyethylene film tapes. The length is 30-45 cm and width 5-8 mm. The last thing you might need is garden varnish.

Preparation of the rootstock

The stability of the tree, its frost resistance and fruiting depend on the rootstock. Local planting material is used as a rootstock. The choice of rootstock must be taken seriously, because it determines how well the apricot can adapt to unusual climatic conditions.

Preparing the scion

Scions are cut from one-year or two-year-old branches. It is best to choose the upper stems on the south or east side. It is not advisable to use scions with fruit buds, only with vegetative ones.

Harvesting cuttings

You can harvest cuttings twice a year - in the last days of autumn or at the end of winter. If it was not possible to make preparations during this period, you can postpone it to the beginning of spring. At the end of autumn, cuttings are taken after the leaves have fallen and the first frosts have struck. In spring, cuttings are cut any day after warm weather sets in.

It is not advisable to take cuttings from thin and weak shoots. They are cut from annual shoots when they are still green. The length of fresh cuttings should be from 30 to 40 cm. Diameter - 7 mm. Cut the cuttings with sharp pruning shears. It is not advisable to touch the cut areas with your hands to avoid infection.

How to keep cuttings fresh before grafting:

• You can store them in the snow. To do this, dig a trench 40 cm deep. The bottom is covered with spruce branches. Then the cuttings are laid out and covered with branches again. Covered with earth and snow. When using this method, it must be taken into account that the thickness of the snow cover should not be less than 40 cm.
• Another storage method is in the basement. The lower part of the cuttings is placed in damp sawdust or sand. To prevent them from becoming moldy, you need to ensure that the room temperature is within 0 - +1 degrees. The humidity is no more than 70%.
• You can store the cuttings in the refrigerator, but not for long. In March, the buds begin to wake up. The cuttings are placed in damp gauze and then in a plastic bag or bottle.

The easiest way to store cuttings is in the cellar.



Advantages of the method: what is good for apricot

The main advantage of apricot grafting is the increase in frost resistance of the tree, which is especially important when living in cold areas.

Benefits of apricot grafting:

• Improving the taste of fruits.
• Increased productivity.
• Increased immunity to diseases.

The procedure differs only in the benefits for the tree. But in order for the result to be good, you need to know exactly how to plant the culture.

Comparative table for choosing apricot rootstock depending on the region

The final result is primarily influenced by the quality of the selected scion and rootstock - it is always very important what the apricot is grafted onto. The rootstock for apricot must be selected depending on the area where the plant grows.

However, this does not mean that other trees are not suitable for rootstocks - another stone fruit tree can also be used for grafting.

Important! Not all fruit plants are suitable for grafting an apricot tree. Combining it with rowan, apple, pear, and shadberry will not bring the desired result.

Are cherry plums and cherries suitable as rootstocks?

Tinting cherry plum and apricot is a very common phenomenon in gardening; it leads to increased immunity of the tree and improved taste of the crop: the fruit becomes sweeter with a pleasant aftertaste.

Cherry rootstock is not the best solution: the fragility of its wood can lead to broken branches during the fruiting period.

Apricot grafting onto sloe

Farmers quite often use thorn rootstock for apricots because of its amazing ability to adapt to temperature changes and take root in infertile soil. The main and only one disadvantage of the blackthorn is the rapid and massive growth of basal shoots, which affects the growth rate of fresh shoots of the plant and subsequently complicates access to its fruits.

Apricot grafting onto cherries and cherries

The survival rate of apricot branches on cherries and cherries is very low, despite the fact that these plants are genetically close. Moreover, the branches of small-fruited plants, due to their structure, cannot withstand an apricot harvest. Thus, combining these plants will lead to the desired result, but problems may arise in the future.

Grafting an apricot onto a peach

Peach rootstock is used quite rarely, since the tree itself is heat-loving and grows only in the southern part of the country. The combination of apricot and peach is ideal - the cutting will most likely take root on the rootstock, but when frost occurs, the peach rootstock will freeze.

How to plant a peach in spring

Most often, a tree is grafted in the spring using annual or biennial cuttings. You need to choose good, thick branches. It is very unlikely that those that are thinner in size than a pencil will take root. They need to be prepared in advance. This is usually done at the end of autumn before the onset of frost or at the beginning of winter, until there is a strong drop in temperature. Until the time is right for grafting, the cuttings can be stored in the basement or cellar. When the time is right for grafting, the cuttings are moistened in water and grafted. Don't forget to secure the cutting firmly after grafting. There are many ways to graft a peach, but it is best to do it in a split

. To do this, you will need to become more familiar with how to pin a peach.

It is also necessary to take into account that the peach should be grafted onto a young tree, the age of which does not exceed five years. An older plant can simply be destroyed.

As you have seen, peach grafting is quite a troublesome task. Cuttings do not always take root. And if grafting is incorrect, you can destroy the very tree on which it is being grafted. Therefore, we advise you to seek help from us – professionals. We will help you properly plant any plant and take proper care of it. And you will be able to enjoy high-quality and tasty fruits from your garden for many years.

What is fruit tree grafting?

Grafting is a vegetative method of propagating fruit trees by combining parts of crops. In other words, this is the engraftment of cuttings from one tree on another.



The parts of plants that are used for grafting are called scion and rootstock. The scion is the part of the plant that is grafted onto the seedling. It could be a cutting or just a bud. The rootstock is the lower part of the seedling into which the cutting is inserted or a bud is attached to it. The rootstock is responsible for the varietal characteristics.

The rootstock is the part of the plant on which the scion is grafted. This is the lower part of the trunk. The rootstock is responsible for the nutrition and adaptability of the tree to local climatic conditions.

Thanks to grafting, you can “rejuvenate” the tree and significantly increase the yield if it has begun to decline. In the case of apricots, the procedure is necessary to increase frost resistance.

As you know, apricots are grown in the southern regions where winters are warm. In central latitudes, when frost can reach -30 degrees, trees do not survive such cold weather and die. To graft an apricot, take a local frost-resistant plant and graft it onto it.