Growing spring garlic: planting and caring for it in open ground

What is spring garlic

There are two varieties of garlic: spring and winter. Both options have their advantages, but the first is more profitable for small plots of land, and the second for large farms. The yield of winter garlic is on average higher, the bulbs are larger, but spring garlic is healthier. It is not difficult to distinguish them.

Table: how to distinguish spring garlic from winter garlic

Criterion	Spring garlic	Winter garlic
Presence of "arrow"	Absent. The exception is the Gulliver variety.	Eat. It is recommended to remove them, leaving a few pieces for culture propagation. They take a lot of nutrients from the bulbs.
Number and location of teeth	There are many (up to 30 pieces), they are quite small, vary greatly in shape and size, and are arranged randomly in several rows. The closer to the center, the smaller they are.	There are relatively few of them (on average no more than 8–10), they are large, located radially around the dry petiole - the remains of o.
Root system	A minimum of 10 days is required for rooting. Only then do the bulbs become active and leaves begin to form.	Powerful, in spring the bulbs quickly begin to grow. This is due to the fact that the roots have time to form in the fall.
Number of leaves	The leaves are numerous, narrow and thin. This is because each leaf provides nutrition for one clove.	There are relatively few of them, they are wide and long.
Skin	Very thin, easy to peel, similar to parchment paper.	Rigid, tightly fitting to the teeth.
Planting and harvesting dates	Early spring (last ten days of March or beginning of April). The growing season is quite long - in temperate climates, the bulbs ripen towards the very end of the gardening season, already in September.	Mid-autumn (second half of October). The main thing is that there is at least 2.5–3 weeks left before the onset of persistent cold weather. Depending on the variety, it ripens in the last ten days of July or in August.
Frost resistance	Does not tolerate negative temperatures well.	When planted to a depth of 5–6 cm, it survives even harsh winters without problems.
Keeping quality	Suitable for long-term storage, this is due to the high density of the pulp. Even at room temperature it will last at least 6–8 months, maximum up to two years.	It is stored relatively poorly, no more than 4–5 months. It dries out quite quickly, losing its taste and a significant part of its benefits.
Growing region	Old varieties are recommended for planting in the southern regions and central Russia. New, with increased frost resistance - everywhere, with the exception of areas with a subarctic climate.	Suitable for moderate to harsher climates. It can be cultivated everywhere in Russia.

Photo: spring and winter garlic

The bulbs of spring garlic are multi-toothed, the cloves are arranged randomly. In winter garlic, the cloves are located around the remnants of the stem

Spring garlic is distinguished by numerous thin leaves

Winter garlic has relatively few leaves; the central stem stands out clearly

Video: how to distinguish spring garlic from winter garlic

French varieties

Garlic, originally from France, has become widespread throughout our country. It takes root well in our climatic conditions and is valued for its aromatic and bright taste properties.

Additionally, we recommend reading the article about spring planting spring garlic.

Kledor

A scientific approach was used to develop this type of garlic. The result is a high-quality variety that is widely used in the cuisine of many countries.

The ripening period is average. It does not tolerate cold very well, sometimes it does not have time to ripen in a temperate climate, it is more suitable for growing in the warm temperate Russian climate.

The head of Kledor garlic is large, its diameter measures 6 cm. It includes 20 or more cloves. The upper scales covering the head of garlic are light gray in color, and the lobular scales are cream. Large slices. The structure of its internal component is dense, pinkish in color. When tasting, it has a pleasant, mildly spicy aftertaste. Harvested garlic can be stored for up to a year. Has good immunity to viruses and pathogenic fungi.

Printanor

French variety of spring garlic. The bulb is large (up to 85 cm in diameter). Weight from 80 to 130 g. The bulb contains large slices (12-18 pieces), tightly located to each other. Garlic has a pronounced taste and tart aroma. The surface scales are light in color, the internal scales have a pinkish tint. It can be stored for more than a year without losing its beneficial properties.

Printanor garlic is called the best variety in Australia! It is hardy, unpretentious, high-yielding, large, and tasty.

Flavor

This variety of garlic was first grown in France. It has been grown in Europe for a long time in agro-industrial complexes. In our country it grows well in the northern and middle parts.

The head of garlic is larger than average in size, up to 5 cm in girth. Weight reaches 80 g. Consists of 15-20 cloves. The surface scales on the bulb are pale cream. The internal structure is light in color, dense and saturated with moisture. Semi-sharp when tasting. Keeps for almost a year.

Planting dates and bed preparation

Despite the fact that spring garlic is planted in the spring, the bed for it needs to be prepared in the fall. This variety of crop feels good in fairly light and fertile soils (sandy loam, loam) with a neutral acid-base reaction. High acidity can be neutralized by adding dolomite flour, the “heaviness” of the soil with sand, and its “lightness” with powdered clay.

Choose an open, sunny place for the garden bed. It is advisable to have some kind of barrier nearby to protect it from the north wind. A slight slope is also welcome - in this case, rapid water drainage is ensured. Spring garlic categorically does not tolerate stagnation of moisture at the roots. For the same reason, planting it in lowlands is excluded - melt and rainwater sit there for a long time, and cold, damp air accumulates.

The garlic bed must be dug deep, simultaneously cleared of plant and other debris.

The selected area is dug up to a depth of 35–40 cm, adding all the necessary fertilizers in the process. For 1 m² you will need approximately three glasses of sifted wood ash, 4–5 liters of humus or rotted compost and 10–15 g of complex fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (Nitroammofoska, Azofoska, Ammofoska). In the spring, before planting, the bed will need to be thoroughly loosened again.

Compared to winter garlic, spring garlic needs more nutritious soil; everything necessary is added to the soil in the fall.

We must not forget about crop rotation. Bad predecessors for garlic are any bulbous plants (including flowers), carrots and plants from the Solanaceae family. Any legumes and grains, greens, all types of cabbage, pumpkins (cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, squash, melons) are suitable in this regard. The crop can be returned to its original place no earlier than after 5 years.

Carrots for garlic are a bad predecessor, but a very useful neighbor

Spring garlic benefits the garden when planted near roses, berry bushes, and garden strawberries. It effectively repels many common pests of these crops, especially slugs and weevils. But proximity to cabbage, peas, and beans is undesirable - garlic inhibits their growth.

Garlic planted in the same bed as garden strawberries effectively repels slugs from berries - pests do not like the pungent smell

The time for planting spring garlic is determined by the climate in the region. By this time the soil should warm up to 5–7°C. But you can’t delay too much, otherwise the substrate, saturated with melt water, will have time to dry out. But the crop does not like excessive dryness of the soil, as well as heat. In warm southern regions, planting can be planned for the end of March, in areas with a temperate climate - for the last ten days of April. In the Urals, Siberia and the Far East, the deadlines are moved forward by another 2-3 weeks.

Spring garlic must be planted in moist soil.

The bulbs feel comfortable and begin to form roots already at an air temperature of 4–8°C. As soon as stable warm weather sets in (above 12–15°C), the development of the root system stops and the formation of the bulb begins. If the plant does not have strong enough roots by this time, it will not be able to provide it with nutrients in the required volume, which will negatively affect the quantity and quality of the harvest.

There is no need to be afraid of returning spring frosts. Spring garlic is much less cold-resistant than winter garlic, but it will successfully survive small negative temperatures.

Growing and care

Spring garlic is easy to care for. Regular watering, periodic fertilizing, soil care, and, if necessary, treatment for diseases and parasites will be required.

Important! Plantings of spring garlic can be placed between the rows of carrots or early potatoes. Their smell will repel carrot flies and Colorado potato beetles.

Fertilizers and watering

Garlic loves abundant watering. They must be produced as the top layer of soil dries out. On dry days, about 10–12 liters of water per 1 m² will be required. In August, watering will need to be stopped - at this time the head begins to actively grow and gain weight.

Spring garlic will require 4 feedings per season. Fertilizers are first applied at the stage of sprouting. You will need mullein, bird droppings (1:10) or urea. The following feedings are carried out at intervals of 14 days. At this time, additives are added that contain phosphorus and potassium. An aqueous solution of wood ash has proven itself well.

Weeding and loosening the soil

Since garlic does not tolerate the proximity of weeds, it is necessary to monitor the cleanliness of the beds and, if necessary, remove the grass by the roots. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the heads underground. Mulching the soil will eliminate the need for frequent weeding.

You should also be careful when loosening. This procedure must be performed as often as possible, always after each watering and precipitation. It allows you to improve the moisture and breathability of the soil.

Did you know? Documented sources contain information that workers during the construction of the famous Egyptian pyramids were given garlic to increase their strength and endurance.

Disease and pest control

If mistakes are made during planting and care, spring garlic can be affected by a number of diseases and pests.

Most often, the plant experiences the following diseases:

White rot. When infected with a pathogenic fungus, the leaves turn yellow and die, and the roots become covered with white mycelium. To prevent the development of fungus, at the beginning of the growing season they are treated with the fungicide “Fitosporin-M”.
Cervical rot. A characteristic feature is white spots with a green border at the bottom of the stem and gray spots on the bulb. Treatment is carried out with the drug "Fundazol".
Downy mildew. Symptoms are yellowing, deformation, wilting of the stem, slowing down of plant growth. Control is carried out with fungicides “Tiram”, “Polycarbocin”, “Artserida”, “Polychom”, 1% Bordeaux mixture.
Fusarium. When infected, the stems turn yellow and dry out, a pink or yellow coating forms in the axils of the leaves, and the roots rot. Treatments with Hom, Fitosporin, and Quadris are used for treatment.
Rust. It is manifested by the formation of small rusty spots on the leaves. Treatment consists of spraying with copper sulfate, the drug "Hom" at intervals of 2 weeks.
Viral mosaic. The disease is manifested by wilting of leaves and the appearance of yellow spots on them. There is no cure for this viral disease.

Important! 30 days before harvesting, treatment of the plant with chemicals must be stopped.

Among the pests that are dangerous for vegetables are:

Root mites. Treatment is carried out by treatment with the drug “Colloidal sulfur”.
Weevils. To scare away the parasite from the beds, crushed wood ash, dry mustard, and ground pepper are sprinkled between the rows.
Onion moths and flies. To combat, folk remedies are used: watering with saline solution, dusting with a mixture of wood ash, tobacco dust and ground pepper, treating with Bazudin and Iskra.
Stem nematodes. To scare away, calendula is planted nearby. For treatment, “Carbation”, “Tiazon”, “Vidat” are used.
Tobacco thrips. To prevent the population of these insects from growing, loosening is used by adding a mixture of wood ash, pepper and mustard to the ground.
Onion hoverfly. To get rid of the pest, treatments with Thiophos, Heptachlor, and 1–2% creolin solution are used.

It is important to prevent the development of diseases. Chemical treatments are extremely undesirable for garlic, since the head absorbs both nutrients and toxic substances.

Among the preventive measures:

compliance with crop rotation rules;
carrying out all necessary agrotechnical measures;
careful selection and disinfection of planting material and soil.

Preparation of planting material and planting technology

Getting a good harvest is impossible without high-quality planting material. This is also affected by its storage conditions. The experience of gardeners shows that garlic that has been kept at room temperature over the winter takes longer to ripen, but forms larger bulbs. Cloves stored at temperatures close to 0°C yield faster, but the heads are small.

Cloves without mechanical damage and dents, with elastic pulp, weighing 3–6 g are suitable for planting. Those on which the slightest suspicious traces are noticeable, reminiscent of symptoms of damage by diseases and pests, are immediately rejected. Although smaller ones will do. They can be placed between rows in other beds to repel pests. They will go for greens. It is not recommended to select heads with a small number of cloves for planting. This is already degenerating garlic; it definitely won’t give a good harvest.

Planting material must be chosen very meticulously; the volume and quality of the future harvest depends on this

To “wake up” the planting material, whole heads are placed in the refrigerator for two to three days 2 months before planting, wrapped in a damp linen napkin or gauze. As the fabric dries, you will need to periodically moisten it. The larger the head, the longer it is kept in the cold.

Some gardeners instead practice heating the garlic for 8–10 hours in hot (40–45°C) water or germinating it (place it in a plastic bag, wrapped in a damp cloth, and leave it on a sunny windowsill). The heads are disassembled into individual cloves no earlier than a day before planting, so that the bottom does not have time to dry. Only remove the dry husk from the outside without damaging the inner shell.

Disinfection is carried out 10–12 hours before disembarkation. Spring garlic cloves are immersed in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate or 1% copper sulfate for 2–3 hours. You can also use an infusion of wood ash or a solution of table salt (10 g/l) for these purposes. And for the prevention of fungal diseases, any copper-containing preparations are useful - fungicides (Fitoverm, Kuprozan, Horus, Skor, Abiga-Pik). To speed up the germination process, biostimulants are used - Kornevin, Zircon, Epin.

Potassium permanganate solution is one of the most common disinfectants

Video: preparing garlic for planting

Garlic is planted with an interval between rows of 25–30 cm. The optimal depth of the furrow is 3–4 cm. With greater depth, the development of the plant is slower. The cloves are placed every 8–12 cm with the bottom down. The larger they are, the more space is left between future bulbs. It is not recommended to press them into the soil and compact the substrate after planting; you can damage the planting material. If groundwater comes close to the soil surface, it is advisable to raise the bed by 15–20 cm.

The interval between adjacent cloves when planting depends on their size

The furrows are covered on top with a mixture of humus and peat chips, mulched with dry leaves, sawdust, and straw, creating a layer 2–3 cm thick. Mass shoots can be expected in 10–12 days.

Spring garlic shoots appear quite quickly and uniformly

Video: planting spring garlic in the ground

For central Russia

In the conditions of the Moscow region and nearby regions, early and mid-season varieties are grown. They manage to harvest the crop in a short summer and gain the required weight and spiciness. The varieties given are also suitable for planting in the Volga region and more southern regions.

Representatives:

Ershovsky - recommended for personal plots. The leaves grow up to 40-50 cm, covered with wax. The teeth in the heads are arranged in a spiral, the number is 20-25 pieces. Dry scales are gray-white, juicy. The covering inner slices are creamy. When tasting, a semi-sharp taste is noted.

Moscow - has excellent immunity, almost never gets sick. The ground part is rich green in color, with a faint waxy coating. The onions are small, the number of segments is 8-12 pieces. Belongs to the semi-acute species. Collect 250-300 grams from 1 square meter.

Elenovsky - refers to productive varieties, produces up to 1 kg of heads per 1 sq. meters. The bulbs are spherical, light, the inner segments are creamy peach in color. The weight of the heads is 42-45 grams, each with 14-16 cloves. It is considered one of the disease-resistant varieties and is little affected by fungal and viral infections.

Countryman - lives up to the name, as it is suitable for planting in different regions of the country. Doesn't shoot. The ground part is up to 37-40 cm high, the width of the leaf blades is 1.3-1.5 cm. The bulbs are round, slightly flattened, weighing 25-29 grams. The dense teeth are covered with creamy scales, the outer “clothing”, like the flesh, is white. The taste is semi-sharp, spicy. Up to 0.3 kg of vegetables are harvested from 1 square meter.

Degtyarsky - grown in summer cottages and on farms. Productivity - 0.3 kg per 1 sq. meters. The heads are covered with dense pink-purple scales, the juicy segments are light in color with a creamy husk. The leaves are small, up to 25-30 cm, rich green. 16-18 cloves are formed in the onion. The garlic tastes semi-sharp. Use - fresh, for preservation.

Gafuriysky is a garlic from the group of mid-early species, productive, but in some seasons it is severely affected by downy mildew. Green leaves grow up to 30-40 cm; a waxy bluish coating is present on the surface of the plates. The bulbs reach 40-42 grams. The scales are dry - light with veins, juicy - pink. The flesh of the slices is white. Each clove weighs 2-4 grams, the taste is very spicy. From 1 sq. meters, approximately 0.8-0.85 kg of vegetables are harvested.

Abrek is mid-season and can be stored for no more than 6 months. The greenery grows up to half a meter, the leaves are covered with a thin waxy coating. There are 13-15 lobes in the head, weight - 28-30 grams. Not a particularly productive variety; 100-120 grams are harvested per 1 m2. Gardeners note that Abrek often suffers from fusarium;

Demidovsky is a semi-sharp garlic with a long (up to 12 months) shelf life. In addition to keeping quality, it is distinguished by its large bulbs compared to other summer varieties (47-50 grams). The greenery is tall, 40-50 cm in height. The number of cloves in the onion is 13-16 pieces.

Printanor - introduced to the market by French breeders. It is characterized by keeping quality (up to 12 months), large slices. The color of the upper scales is ivory, the teeth are covered with a creamy husk with a reddish tint. The weight of the heads is 90-130 grams, the number of teeth is up to 18 pieces. The taste is semi-sharp, high aromaticity.

Kledor - belongs to the elite varieties of French selection. Productive, disease resistant. Doesn't shoot arrows. The bulbs are large, with a husk of a rich purple hue. In each, from 18 to 20-22 teeth are formed. The taste is semi-sharp, shelf life is up to 6 months.

These same varieties are suitable for planting in Ukraine and Belarus.

Caring for spring garlic

Garlic is a relatively unpretentious crop, but you won’t be able to get a bountiful harvest without devoting at least a little time and effort to the beds. At a minimum, the gardener will be required to regularly weed and loosen the soil. Weeds easily “choke” spring garlic, robbing it of the necessary nutrition. Proper watering and timely application of fertilizers are equally important for the crop.

Spring garlic requires intensive soil moisture only at the initial stage of development, when leaves are actively growing. The plant immediately “informs” about a moisture deficiency - its tips turn yellow and dry out. On average, one watering every 4–5 days is sufficient. Consumption rate - 10–12 l/m².

Watering garlic during the active growing season is gradually reduced, gradually fading away

When the bulbs have already begun to form, the substrate is watered very moderately, and if the weather is rainy and cool, it is not watered at all. Excess moisture at this time can lead to their heating and the development of pathogenic fungi.

Three weeks before the approximate date of garlic ripening, watering is stopped completely. Otherwise, the cloves will become watery. This negatively affects both taste and keeping quality.

The root system of spring garlic is weak compared to winter garlic; it is not able to extract enough nutrients from the soil to form large bulbs, so the plants need large doses of fertilizers.

The first time fertilizing is applied when the height of the leaves reaches 4–5 cm. For the active formation of green mass, garlic needs nitrogen. It is watered with a solution of urea, ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate (12–15 g per 10 liters of water). A natural source of nitrogen is fresh bird droppings or cow manure. But it is strictly forbidden to introduce it into the soil in its pure form - the roots will immediately “burn.” Instead, prepare an infusion by pouring 2–3 liters of raw material into a bucket of water and leaving it for several days in a warm place under a tightly closed lid. Before use, it is filtered and diluted with water in a ratio of 1:8 or 1:15, respectively, for manure and droppings.

Urea is one of the most popular nitrogen-containing fertilizers

Excess nitrogen in the soil is harmful to garlic. This weakens his immunity. The plant begins to “fatten”, forming a lush rosette of leaves to the detriment of the bulbs.

The following fertilizers are phosphorus-potassium. These fertilizers begin to be applied from the moment the head is formed. It is enough to apply 2-3 times during the growing season at approximately equal intervals. The last one is about a month before the harvest ripens. If you overdo it with these fertilizers, the cloves will crack. Garlic is watered with solutions of potassium sulfate and superphosphate (8–10 g per 10 liters of water). A natural alternative is an infusion of sifted wood ash. A liter jar of raw materials is filled with 5 liters of boiling water, left for 8–10 hours, and filtered before use.

Wood ash is a natural source of potassium and phosphorus

There are also special complex fertilizers for this crop. But first study the composition. Garlic is tolerant to chlorine and its compounds; they accumulate in the pulp.

When choosing a fertilizer for garlic, make sure it does not contain chlorine.

If the development of spring garlic is clearly too slow, you can feed it with natural organic matter - a solution of vermicompost, an infusion of nettle greens, and dandelion.

Variety of garlic

However, not everyone knows that there are more than 70 types of garlic varieties! This means that you can choose according to your taste, focusing on the conditions of a particular site with its soil, climate characteristics, and location. Moreover , growing experience suggests that you should not limit your choice to one or two varieties. It’s worth trying a few and then keeping the ones you like.

More than 70 varieties of spring and winter garlic are known

This variety makes sense, since some ripen earlier and can be added to dishes or used for canning already in the beginning - mid-summer. Others ripen later, but are stored better.

Harvest and storage

The fact that spring garlic is already ripe is indicated by massive yellowing and lodging of the leaves, and softening of the root collar. The approximate date is the end of August or the beginning of September. There is no time to delay harvesting. The quality of such garlic deteriorates greatly - the heads fall apart into individual cloves, the skin cracks, and the bottom sprouts. Even being 2-3 days late is critical.

Garlic harvested from the garden must be thoroughly dried.

You can slightly speed up the ripening time of the crop by “redirecting” almost all the nutrients to the bulbs:

Tie the leaves into a knot.
Mulch the soil. This way it heats up less, and active growth of the head occurs precisely at low soil temperatures.
Carefully insert a sharp knife with a long blade under the head flat and lightly trim the roots at a depth of 3–5 cm. The procedure requires a certain skill, otherwise it is very easy to damage the bulb.

Garlic leaves tied in a knot can no longer receive nutrients in the same volume, so they are redirected to the bulb

For harvesting, choose a sunny, cool day. To minimize mechanical damage, dig up the garlic with a pitchfork. Then it needs to be dried in the fresh air for 5–7 days. The heads are placed under a canopy to protect from possible precipitation. Direct sunlight also has a negative effect on them.

Dry bulbs are cleaned of adhering soil, their roots and leaves are trimmed, leaving 2–3 and 8–10 cm, respectively. Spring garlic is sorted, discarding heads damaged by fungi, viruses, and insects.

Resistant varieties for northern regions

Garlic is harvested in all regions, including Siberia. For success, it is important to choose the right variety and not plant plants on heavy soils with stagnant water, especially before winter.

The best cold-resistant varieties:

Bashkirsky 85 (winter, early ripening);
SIR-10 (winter, early ripening – 85–87 days);
Caesar (winter, mid-season – 105–115 days);
Novgorod (spring, medium late - 120–130 days);
Aleisky (spring, mid-season - 110–122 days).
Novosibirsk . A stable spring variety with an average ripening period - from germination to the bulbs being ready for harvesting, it takes 75–85 days. Does not form an arrow, universal, suitable for canning. The scales are pink, the heads are round, small - weighing up to 25 g, the teeth are large - 4-10 pieces. The pulp is creamy, the taste is harmonious, semi-sharp. It is distinguished by increased winter hardiness, stable yield of about 1.2 kg/m². An important advantage is that the plant is weakly affected by fusarium.

Geography of distribution

Almost all varieties of spring garlic are quite stable and unpretentious and have a wide geographical distribution, but among them there are varieties that are better suited to certain climatic zones:

Almost all varieties of spring garlic are suitable for the central region, the best of which have been developed recently - Ershovsky, Gulliver, Victorio.
For the northern regions and the Urals, the following varieties are more suitable: Aleysky, Permyak, Degtyarsky, Flavor.
The Sochi-56 variety is most suitable for the climatic conditions of the southern regions.

The correct selection of varieties and the presence of plants with different ripening periods on the site allows you to more rationally distribute labor costs for planting, caring for and harvesting crops during the season, and obtain consistently high yields. Different ripening and storage periods will help you enjoy products of decent quality throughout the year.

What are the advantages of spring varieties of garlic and their disadvantages?

Garlic varieties that are planted in the spring are called spring varieties. They, like most plants, are not able to survive frosts. Spring garlic must be planted annually, and the planting material must be stored at above-zero temperatures.

Due to the fact that almost all varieties of spring shuttle do not produce a flower-bearing arrow, they are propagated by cloves taken from a mature bulb.

Spring garlic has a number of undeniable advantages over winter garlic:

Ability for long-term storage. This is the main advantage. Without significant losses, subject to optimal conditions, the bulbs can be stored until the next harvest. Later ripening dates significantly extend shelf life.
Resistance to adverse environmental conditions. It is not afraid of returning spring frosts and low spring temperatures.
The presence of a large number (up to 20 pieces) of not very large cloves reduces the cost of seed.

At the same time, spring garlic is inferior to winter garlic in terms of yield, size of heads and cloves. The only method of propagation by planting cloves does not allow quickly increasing the acreage under new varieties.

Criterias of choice

First of all, pay attention to the following indicators:

Adaptability to weather. There are varieties that produce rich harvests only in warm climates. Therefore, if you are a resident of the central zone or northern regions of Russia, it is best to pay attention to garlic intended specifically for your climate.
Taste qualities . If you are a fan of spicy food, then you are unlikely to like garlic with a delicate, slightly spicy taste.
Some varieties are unpretentious in care, while others require regular feeding and fertilizer. Pay attention to how much time and effort you need to spend on growing .
Head size . For winter preparations it is better to use large cloves, for spices - smaller cloves.

Important! Before you make your choice, ask your gardener friends which variety they prefer. People whose knowledge is based not only on theory, but also on practice, will tell you about the merits of this or that garlic.

Late ripening

Gulliver

The appearance of the plant and the size of the bulbs fully correspond to its name. Productivity up to 1 kg per 1 sq. m., characterized by the large size of the heads with a pungent odor and pungent taste. May give an arrow. The color of the integumentary scales is dirty white, the number of teeth is small. The plants are tall, the leaves are up to 55 cm long, the color is dark green, the waxy coating is weakly expressed. The shape of the head is flat-round, weight - from 90 to 130 g. Resistant to major diseases, perfectly stored.