Step-by-step instructions for planting peach in the fall from experienced gardeners

The peach tree belongs to the Rosaceae family. Its closest relative is almonds. In China, eating peaches has long been the exclusive privilege of emperors. Until now, in countries where Buddhism is widespread, its fruits are credited with the ability to grant long life, eternal youth and even immortality. However, few people decide to plant a peach on their plot, especially in the fall, when sudden frosts may threaten the young tree. And in vain. This is a rather capricious and demanding garden crop, but proper planting and preparation for winter significantly increases the chances that the tree will take root and thank you with abundant harvests.

  • 2 Determining the right time for landing
  • 3 We purchase and prepare a seedling
  • 4 Choose a place on the site
  • 5 Prepare the pit and soil

    5.1 Table: preparing soil mixture for planting peach

  • 6 Step-by-step description of landing
  • 7 Shelter for the winter
  • 8 Video: how to plant a peach tree in the fall
  • Why you should plant a peach in the fall and not in the spring

    There is still no agreement between agronomists and practicing gardeners on the question of when to plant peach seedlings (as well as other fruit trees) - in spring or autumn. In the first case, there is a risk that the fragile tree will suffer from pests, and in the second, that it will not have time to adapt and will freeze.

    Peach trees are not winter-hardy, but they are hardy. They can survive negative temperatures down to 22–25º C.

    True, in this case, leaf buds, flower ovaries and roots located close to the ground will be significantly damaged.

    The only drawback of autumn planting is that it is not suitable for all gardeners. In areas with a temperate climate, it is better to plant peaches in the spring. Although, of course, no one can give any guarantees that they will take root and bear fruit in the “risky farming zone.”

    Autumn planting is good for those places where winter begins in accordance with the calendar, and not at the beginning of November or even at the end of October . During the 6–10 weeks that pass between planting and the first frost, the seedling has time to take root and grow stronger. Winter temperatures rarely drop below -15º C, so there is virtually no risk of roots freezing.

    Another advantage of planting in the fall is that the tree “hibernates” for the winter, it is not disturbed by parasites, pests and rodents, and the roots quietly develop under the naturally compacted soil . This is very important for further survival. Therefore, in the spring, the peach shows rapid growth, buds are actively forming, and the first fruits can be expected in the third year after planting.

    It is more profitable to purchase seedlings in the fall - prices are lower and the range is wider. The trees have leaves and developed roots, which allow us to judge the quality of the planting material.

    Favorable regions

    Peach is a heat-loving plant. Its homeland is not reliably known, but it presumably spread from China. The mild climate of this state, as well as a number of European countries, has made it easy to grow a tree with very juicy and tasty fruits. In temperate and cold climates, to grow peach it is necessary to select frost-resistant varieties and follow certain planting and care rules.

    Southern region of Russia

    In areas with warm climates, peaches are planted mainly in the fall. Before the onset of the first cold weather, the root system has time to adapt and strengthen. After the first winter, the leaves are treated with 1% Bordeaux mixture to avoid peach curl. When planting in spring in May and June, it is protected from the scorching sun. An opaque sheet is stretched over the tree. If this is not done, the bark and subcortical layers of young shoots will become coarser and dry out.

    Please note! The soil around the seedlings should be moistened at least once every four days. 2-3 buckets of water are poured under one plant.

    Northern regions and middle zone

    Frost-resistant varieties of capricious plants have been bred for cold regions. Planting peach in the Moscow region or in central Russia is possible both in spring and autumn. Seedlings are rooted at a soil temperature of at least 12 °C. If autumn came early, or the weather was too rainy, you should not replant the peach; it is better to plan this procedure for next spring. In the northern regions, seedlings are covered for the winter. Insulation allows the plant to withstand cold weather without damaging the root system and trunk.

    Determining the right time to plant

    Peach trees should be planted when they enter their dormant period. Choose varieties whose characteristics are best suited to the climatic conditions of your region.

    The optimal time for those who live in the southern regions of Russia, in the northeast or northwest of Ukraine, or simply want to play it safe by giving the seedlings maximum time to take root before winter sets in, is September 5–15.

    Gardeners of Crimea, Krasnodar Territory, southern Ukraine and Transcarpathia can plant at least until the twentieth of October. If you believe weather forecasters who promise a late onset of winter, you can postpone the procedure until the first ten days of November.

    In zones with a temperate climate, a peach tree, even if it does not die in the first winter, unfortunately, most likely will not bear fruit. In the conditions of “little snow” Ural and Siberian summers, the fruits will not have time to set and fully ripen. The only exception is trees in greenhouses and greenhouses.

    Peaches are not only very tasty, but also healthy. They are rich in iron, calcium, potassium, copper, vitamins A, C, and B. Unlike most fruits and berries, this fruit does not lose its beneficial properties when preserved. Even astronauts appreciated this when peaches were included in the diet of one of the American lunar expeditions, and they became the first fruit that people ate on the Moon.

    Types of pruning

    Usually, peaches are grown in Kuban, Crimea and other southern regions of Russia, but fruiting can be achieved even in the Moscow region.
    Pruning a peach involves only two types of actions - shortening and thinning. By shortening certain branches, it is possible to lay a strong skeleton and improve productivity. Thinning serves hygienic purposes and allows you to get rid of “ballast”. Depending on the purpose, the following types of peach tree pruning are distinguished.

    Sanitary. An essential element of caring for any plant. If you do not cut off dry branches affected by disease or pests in time, the entire tree may become sick and die. Formative. By giving the crown a certain shape, gardeners make it easier to care for, harvest, and increase winter hardiness. Formation is carried out before the fruiting season begins. Regulatory

    When the crown is fully formed, it is important to maintain the chosen silhouette and prevent thickening. Otherwise, the yield and health of the tree will suffer. Rejuvenating

    Fruit wood actively produces ovaries for five years. In the future, the old branches will only draw juices, but bear little fruit. Periodically, the tree skeleton needs to be rejuvenated by cutting out old wood.

    Sanitary pruning is performed throughout the growing season. Do not hesitate to remove diseased branches if you do not want to completely lose the desired harvest.

    The peach tree should be pruned throughout the entire growing season - from the moment it awakens in the spring until hibernation in the fall.

    For beginners, it is very important to remember when and what work is performed. Experienced gardeners recommend adhering to a fruit crop pruning plan that has been proven over the years.

    Spring work

    Spring pruning of peach for the purpose of crown formation is carried out in regions with moderate climatic conditions. In warmer climates, spring moves quickly, so gardeners recommend postponing the bulk of the work to the fall.

    In the spring, shoots that stand out from the general order are cut out - tops, competing shoots. Spring pruning is not performed immediately after the tree awakens, but in the period between the swelling of the buds and the opening of the first pink corollas. At this time, non-viable branches, frozen or damaged by ice, are clearly visible.

    Summer pruning

    The main part of the activities is carried out after the appearance of the ovaries and the natural shedding of some of the greenfinches. The optimal period is from early June to mid-July.

    The main goals of summer peach pruning:

    • adjusting the number of shoots to thin out the crown;
    • removal of incorrectly growing and competitive branches;
    • tweezing (plucking) of excess ovaries at the stage of stone formation.

    The described measures will increase the quality of the fruit (taste and size) by improving lighting and crown ventilation.

    Summer pruning is a prevention of diseases and pests.

    Autumn work

    After fruiting, the peach can be pruned in autumn. At the same time, you will not cause damage to the health of the tree, because the wounds will have time to heal before the onset of cold weather. In addition, in the south, all types of pruning are permissible in the fall. You can shape the crown, rejuvenate it, and remove excess growth. In the spring, in southern latitudes, peach will not have time to redistribute resources, which will lead to a decrease in productivity in the current season. The event is held from early September to mid-autumn.

    In regions with a temperate climate, it is recommended only to selectively remove shoots for the purpose of sanitation. This event will protect the peach from the invasion of pests and fungi, which, in search of a place to winter, settle in weakened branches. Global intervention begins with the arrival of spring, since autumn weather in the temperate zone is unpredictable. The peach may simply not have time to heal the wounds, which will greatly reduce its frost resistance. Here the pruning time falls at the very beginning of autumn.

    We purchase and prepare a seedling

    Even with the most favorable climate and fertile soil, it is quite naive to expect that a strong peach tree will grow from a seed thrown into the ground. If you want to systematically harvest a large harvest, pay special attention to the choice of planting material.

    What you should pay attention to when choosing a seedling:

    • Place . Purchase seedlings only from reliable and trusted suppliers. The best option is a nursery located in your area. Avoid buying at agricultural fairs and from private individuals unknown to you, especially if you are a novice gardener. It is not a fact that the purchased plant will turn out to be a peach, especially of the desired variety. Another reason to be wary is the excessively low price.
    • Time . Take your time to purchase a tree as early as possible. If you dig up peach seedlings before they enter a dormant period, the survival rate drops sharply. To determine whether the active growing season has ended, inspect the shoots and buds. The former should be completely covered with bark, and the latter should be fully formed.
    • Variety . Choose trees adapted to the climate of your area. Before purchasing, compare the characteristics, study the advantages and disadvantages of each variety. Experienced gardeners advise purchasing seedlings of those varieties that were bred in Ukraine: they tolerate cold weather best. And for areas with a warm climate, it is better to take Bulgarian varieties.
    • Age of the seedling . For beginner gardeners, two-year-old trees are suitable. Their height is 1.2–1.5 m, trunk thickness is 1.5–2.5 cm, at least 3–4 branches in the crown. There is at least 6–8 cm between the graft and the root. Experienced gardeners can also cope with an annual seedling. It looks like an even, smooth stick up to 1 m high, without branches or leaves.
    • Appearance . The plant should look strong and healthy. Withered leaves, wrinkled, flaking bark, cracks are a reason to refuse the purchase. Inspect the roots - there should be a lot of them. A healthy peach has a fibrous root system. A tree with one large root does not take root well and is susceptible to disease. If the seller allows, do a test. A living tree's branches bend but do not break. When you cut them, the cut is white or pale green, but not yellowish-beige. When you remove the top layer of bark, you should see green, not brown, skin.

    Buying from an online store has its pros and cons. You can get acquainted with the extensive range and characteristics of different varieties without leaving your home. Prices there are usually lower than in regular stores. But you do not have the opportunity to personally assess the quality of planting material, and returning it is a rather troublesome and costly procedure. Before placing an order, ask for the opinions of friends and acquaintances, read reviews about the store on thematic forums. Be sure to find out exactly where the nursery with which the online store cooperates is located.

    When purchasing a seedling from a store or nursery located far from your site, take measures to ensure that it survives transportation safely. Remember that sudden changes in temperature and humidity are harmful to it. Wrap the roots with damp gauze or cotton cloth, cover with a plastic bag and securely secure. Do not unpack the peach roots right away. Leave it in this form for 2-3 days, after tearing off all the leaves and small twigs that require moisture.

    Two days before planting in the ground, unroll the tree and immerse it for a day in a container with clean water at room temperature (preferably rainwater). There should be both roots and branches in the water. You can add a growth stimulator there. Carefully calculate the proportion according to the instructions for the drug.

    Some gardeners use this trick: before planting, they pour melted paraffin over the trunk of the tree, paying special attention to the lower part of the trunk. This “cocoon” will protect the seedling from winter frosts, sun, wind, rodents and pests. And in the spring, the paraffin shell will not prevent the branches from growing and the buds from hatching.

    The best varieties

    It is very important to choose the right variety that can not only adapt well to the soil and climatic conditions of Belarus, but will also produce abundant and regular harvests

    VarietyDescription of the treeFruit characteristicsDescription of pulpVarietal advantages
    "Znakhodka"Tall, fast growing, with a round and dense crownMedium in size, one-dimensional, round, average weight 33-51 g, orange, with slight pubescenceLight orange color, sweet and sourUniversal use. Increased winter hardiness and low risk of moniliosis
    "In memory of Govorukhin"Medium-sized and fast-growing, with a spreading and dense crownMedium in size, one-dimensional, round, weighing 47-52 g, orange, with slight pubescenceYellow, sour-sweet tasteIncreased winter hardiness and low risk of scab and clasterosporiosis
    "In Memory of Loiko"Tall and fast-growing, with a round and medium-dense crownMedium in size, one-dimensional, round, weighing 37-45 g, light yellow, with slight pubescenceLight orange, sweet and sour tasteHigh winter hardiness and low risk of moniliosis
    "Rattle"Vigorous, with a spherical and sparse crownLarge, weighing 47-62 g, round-oval, compressed from the sides, orangeish in color, without tanOrange, with sufficient density, sourish-sweetSelf-fertility; universal use, keeping quality and transportability of fruits
    "Spadchyna"Medium height, fast growing, with a spreading and dense crownMedium in size, one-dimensional, round, weighing 43-56 g, greenish-yellow, with a dark red blush and slight pubescenceLight orange color, sweet and sourIncreased winter hardiness and low risk of moniliosis

    Choosing a place on the site

    Peach loves the warmth and abundance of sunlight, to which he is accustomed in his historical homeland - China.

    Despite its name, this plant is not originally from Persia (modern Iran). It was brought to Persia by Chinese merchants, and to Europe by the soldiers of Alexander the Great. The Roman Empire was fond of growing peaches, but with its decline this fruit was practically forgotten and was remembered only in the 16th century, when wild trees produced fruits slightly larger than cherries. It took Europeans almost three hundred years for the peach to regain the size and taste we are accustomed to today.

    It is extremely undesirable to replant a peach tree, so choosing a suitable place on the site must be taken with full responsibility. Cold drafts and dampness will be destructive for it, but the tree will easily tolerate drought and heat.

    The ideal place for a seedling is the south side of the plot . Make sure that it is not exposed to shadows from buildings, other structures or mature trees. It will begin to bloom earlier than everyone else, so it needs a lot of sun.

    It is very good if the peach is protected on the north side by a fence, wall, or hedge . Move the planting 2–2.5 meters to the south so that the tree has enough space to form a crown and root system. In this case, it will not suffer from cold winds. And the wall, heating up in the sun, will provide him with additional warmth.

    Do not plant the tree in a low area. This is where cool air most often stagnates and the soil becomes waterlogged. An area where groundwater rises too close to the surface is also not suitable (the minimum acceptable depth is 1.2–1.5 m). A very good place would be a hillside facing south or southeast .

    Peach should also not be planted next to trees that have been bearing fruit for several seasons. They will oppress the young seedling. Perhaps it will not take root and will dry out. A place cleared of old fruit trees is also not suitable. Even the most thorough uprooting will not completely get rid of the harmful waste products of the old tree and various pests.

    A plot on which any nightshade (tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, tobacco) and melons (melons, watermelons) have previously grown is not suitable for peach. Sunflowers and strawberries are susceptible to many diseases (especially fungal ones) that will negatively affect the seedling. And clover and legumes can leave behind root rot.

    If there is simply no other place on the site, postpone planting the peach tree for 2-3 seasons. During this time, every summer sow the designated area with grains - rye, oats.

    When planting the entire future peach orchard at once, keep in mind that the distance between trees in the same row is at least 2.5 m . Experienced gardeners suggest removing seedlings from each other to twice the height of an adult tree. The distance between rows of seedlings is 3 m or more. On level ground, the rows run strictly from south to north. On a slope - just across it.

    Productivity directly depends on the composition of the soil. Chernozem, light loam and sandy loam soil are most suitable for peach. They are characterized by a high lime content and low but sufficient moisture. Alkaline soils and areas with a high carbonate content are absolutely unsuitable.

    Advice from experienced gardeners

    If the seedling has leaves, then they need to be picked immediately after planting, without damaging the buds and bark, this will preserve the plant’s strength for its adaptation.

    In the fall, you need to whiten trees to protect plants from certain pests, diseases and sunburn.

    In the third year, after planting, you need to apply nitrogen fertilizers, loosening them into the soil, but this should only be done in the spring. In the autumn, during the third year of tree growth, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied to it.

    Subsequently, you need to apply fertilizer every year.

    Preparing the hole and soil

    You need to start preparing the soil by clearing the area. Remove debris and stones, collect fallen leaves, and weed. Do this 2-3 months before the intended planting.

    Then carefully dig up the ground several times, simultaneously removing stones and plant roots. This will also have an additional effect - saturating the soil with oxygen.

    The next stage is the planting hole. The minimum dimensions of the pit are 0.5 m in length, width and depth, but depending on the size of the seedling it can reach up to 1 x 1 x 0.8 m . High soil moisture can be neutralized by creating good drainage in the planting hole from expanded clay, pebbles, and small fragments of bricks. In this case, the depth of the hole increases by 20 cm. Immediately discard the removed turf with the roots of grass and weeds, and set aside approximately 20 cm of the top fertile layer of soil.

    Mix the rest of the soil taken out of the hole with two buckets of humus (12–15 kg) and wood ash (0.5 kg). Then pour it onto the bottom of the hole so that an even cone is formed about 2/3 of the hole high. Lightly sprinkle it with soil from the top layer and leave it there for 16–20 days.

    The longer the hole sits, the better the quality of the soil.

    Application of other fertilizers is not required if you plant peach in black soil. In all other cases they are needed . Often, peach planting fails due to a lack of humus, excess clay, soil salinity or peat formation.

    Ideally, you need to conduct a soil analysis to clarify what kind of feeding the seedling will need, and begin to compensate for the lack of microelements a year before the planned planting. During the planting process, applying inorganic fertilizers and manure is highly discouraged: you will burn the roots of the seedling.

    Table: preparing soil mixture for planting peach

    Soil type Required Supplements
    Leached black soil
    • 10 kg of humus,
    • 250 g lime,
    • 150 g superphosphate,
    • 35–40 g of potassium chloride.
    Heavy clay
    • Bucket of coarse river sand,
    • drainage (expanded clay, small brick chips, pebbles, crushed bark, pieces of coal, shells, fragments of ceramics or porcelain),
    • 700–800 g wood ash,
    • 250 g superphosphate.
    Peat
    • Clay (1.5 times less than peat),
    • 350–400 g superphosphate,
    • 300 g lime,
    • 100 g of potassium chloride.
    Serozem Complex mineral fertilizers (Ammophos, Universal, Kemira Lux) in the quantities specified in the instructions.
    Podzolic
    • 50–60 g of fertilizers containing potassium (Potassium chloride, Potassium sulfate, Potassium magnesia),
    • 70 g ammonium nitrate,
    • 200 g superphosphate.
    Podzolized
    • 80–100 g of fertilizers containing potassium and nitrogen (Potassium nitrate, Nitrophoska, Aminophosphate, Diammonium phosphate),
    • 200 g superphosphate,
    • 200–300 g of ash.

    Among fruit trees, peach is a leader in the absorption of microelements and nutrients. But if the hole is prepared correctly, taking into account the characteristics of the soil, next summer it will do without additional fertilizers.

    Shelter for the winter

    Since peach loves warmth, build it a special shelter for the winter, based on the climate, location of the garden plot, weather forecasts and specific weather conditions. The main and only requirement is to use natural materials that allow air to pass through. Polyethylene is absolutely not suitable .

    You need to build a shelter before the first frost (mid or late November). It is absolutely necessary for both peach seedlings and mature trees if in winter the negative temperature below 20º C lasts for at least a month. In this case, it is better to do it earlier - at the end of October or at the beginning of November.

    There are different ways to cover a peach tree.

    1. The simplest option is to wrap 2-3 layers of burlap around the supports supporting the trunk, and form a mound of earth 25-30 cm high at the roots.
    2. Place a narrow and tall cardboard box over the trunk. Stuff it inside with hay and close it. A plastic pipe will also work, but you will need to make holes in it for ventilation, otherwise the seedling will rot.

    In the southern regions and coastal areas, one layer of burlap or thin cardboard is usually sufficient for winter protection. In the north-east of Russia, north-west of Ukraine and in areas remote from the Black Sea, it is necessary to increase the quantity by 2-3 layers .

    Remove the cover in the spring, when the night temperature stabilizes at 5–10º C.

    Care after disembarkation

    The most common and common mistake of almost all novice gardeners is that after planting a peach crop, they do not pay due attention to the tree and leave almost all the side shoots on it. Gardeners hope that this method will bring more harvests.

    In fact, a large number of lateral shoots, on the contrary, can destroy the crop. The fact is that in spring the entire above-ground part of the tree begins to evaporate moisture, which is very important for the root system of a fragile plant.

    As a result, moisture does not have time to be replenished, which leads to drying out of the roots. To prevent this problem from occurring, it is recommended to perform the following manipulations:

    • after planting the peach, you need to identify the three strongest lateral shoots and shorten them by ¼;
    • the remaining lateral branches should be completely excised;
    • then all cut areas are treated with crushed activated carbon, and a layer of garden varnish is applied on top, which will help protect the plant in the winter.

    After completing all these manipulations, do not forget to whiten the tree with a solution of slaked lime. A layer of whitewash will help protect your plant from frost damage. And the final stage, covering the crop for the winter. In fact, caring for a peach is not difficult if you strictly follow all the recommendations.

    Covering the seedling before wintering

    As you know, peach is a southern crop, and therefore very capricious. Therefore, before wintering, you should thoroughly cover the tree so that severe frosts cannot damage the plant.

    At the same time, always remember one rule: to cover the peach, you can use any material that allows air to pass through well. But the use of polyethylene is strictly prohibited.

    There are two ways to cover peach crops, namely:

    1. Prepare burlap for future use, which is then wrapped around the trunk of the crop. And after the tree is wrapped, earth 20 cm high is poured on top around the trunk.
    2. The second option is to stock up on a large cardboard box, which is placed on the tree, and a layer of straw or hay is placed underneath.

    Both options are simple and very convenient. At the same time, do not forget, as soon as the first snow falls, take a shovel and throw snow on top of the crop; such a kind of blanket will serve as good protection for peach trees even in the harshest winter.

    Video: how to plant a peach tree in the fall

    Peach can't be grown everywhere, but if you live in a place with a suitable climate, don't be afraid to experiment. Using the above tips, you can properly plant a tree that will decorate the garden for many years and delight you with juicy, aromatic fruits.

    • Author: Yulia Golova
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    Is there a way to replant an adult peach?

    Yes, there is such a way. You can replant a peach in the autumn, preferably even in late autumn. But we warn you right away that this will be very difficult to do.

    It will be necessary to dig around the tree at least 1-1.2 m, and to a depth of up to 80 cm. This will make it possible to pick up the peach from its place with minimal loss of the root system. But again we remind you that this must be done in late autumn.

    In general, it would be necessary to clarify the age of the peach, since this tree is replanted only up to the age of 5-7 years. If you try to transplant a very mature tree, the results can be quite disastrous.

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