ᐉ What to plant after corn next year? – zooshop-76.ru

Why crop turnover is needed: basic rules

Crop rotation should ideally be applied every year. The reasons are:

1. Increase in pathogenic organisms and pests in the soil.
2. Accumulation of toxins. The roots of the plant produce colins. Even in the absence of pests, the crop stops developing. The culprit is your own toxins.
3. Growing one crop for several years in one place leads to the depletion of specific elements that feed the corn.

All of these factors tire the soil. Crop rotation helps to avoid this. The main thing is to follow the basic rules:

1. Rules of botany. Related crops are not planted in one place, since the causes of soil fatigue are common. This means nothing will change.
2. Time. The plant should be returned no earlier than 3-4 years. The motto is: “The longer you don’t plant, the better the plant is.”
3. Rule of fertility. You should alternate plants that enrich the soil and balance the nutrient supply. For example, legume plants loosen and enrich the soil. Therefore, they are the predecessors of many plants. It is not advisable to plant crops that require nutrition one after another. Pay attention to the similar root system. Food will be obtained at one depth, thereby depleting the soil.

Keeping a diary in which you record the location of vegetables on the site will help you follow the rules, since it is difficult to remember and keep everything in your head.

Structure of sown areas and crop rotation

The structure of crops is the ratio of sown areas as a percentage for individual crops.
To determine it, it is worth taking into account the specific natural and economic conditions of the economy. Soil crop rotation is a scientifically based alternation of crops, as well as fallows in time and territory or simply in time. In the case of growing one crop in one field for 2 years or more, the crops are called repeated, and when the cultivation is longer - permanent. When only one crop is constantly grown on a farm, such crops are called monocultures. Different cultures have different attitudes towards repeated and permanent sowing. As for repeated cultivation, plants are divided into 3 groups: • insensitive, their yield almost does not decrease if they are grown in the same field for several years: potatoes, hemp, rice, cotton, tobacco; • moderately sensitive: cereal grains, corn; • very sensitive, their yield decreases sharply, even if they are grown for 2 years in the same field: sunflower, flax, sugar beets.

What to plant after corn: green manure

Sweet corn is a “voracious” plant that requires a large amount of nutrients for reliable development and fruiting. For this reason, it grows extensive and in some places quite long roots, taking water and nutrients from deep in the soil. Due to the fact that this type of growth greatly impoverishes the land in one season, it is not recommended to sow corn in the same area constantly. Ideally, the soil should rest completely for several seasons, but in practice this is difficult to achieve.

The process of restoring soil fertility can be accelerated by the introduction of fertilizers and minerals during pre-planting preparation, as well as by alternate cultivation of crops on the site. Each plant changes both the texture of the soil and its composition, making it possible to create a kind of conveyor belt cultivation.

What to plant after corn next year

Since corn needs well-moistened, plowed and saturated soil to grow well, good precursor plants for it are legumes and cereals. Also, after corn, it is customary to plant beans, peas, soybeans, beets, carrots and some other root vegetables, leafy vegetables such as parsley, spinach, mustard, nettle, sorrel and perennial greens, as well as winter grain crops.

Many gardeners wonder whether it is possible to plant garlic after corn. Based on the experience of domestic summer residents, we can say that yes, but you will still have to prepare the soil for the bulbous crop. In short - dig up and fertilize, ideally - pour a layer of humus, mulch, straw and leaves over the cloves.

It is difficult to consider corn as a green manure plant, since it develops at a slightly different pace than necessary. The main requirement for green manure crops is rapid development and growth in the first stages. This allows them to gain green mass, which is embedded in the soil. In addition, green manure is used to enrich poor soil, that is, they must grow well in it.

What to plant after corn

Corn “starts” slowly and does not gain green mass quickly, and also grows poorly on depleted soil, so good green manure does not come out of it in its pure form. However, planting legumes and grains after it is quite effective and convenient. All experienced summer residents know this feature and use it to their advantage.

Place of corn in crop rotation

Corn is not very demanding when it comes to placement in crop rotation. It is only important to sow it at the optimal time for the given area. This crop does not have specific requirements for its predecessor; it is not a host for diseases (with the exception of fusarium) and pests of other cultivated plants. Very good precursors for corn are row crops and legumes fertilized with manure (Table 1).

Table No. 1 Suitability of various crops as corn precursors

In more northern growing regions, incl. in the Russian Non-Black Earth Region and Belarus, the main predecessors of corn are cereals with or without stubble crops. However, it is permissible to place corn after potatoes, perennial and annual grasses. On many farms it is sown after winter rye as a mowing crop for use as green fodder. In this case, some delay in sowing time is inevitable and such corn crops are only suitable for green fodder, since the plants do not reach milky-waxy or waxy ripeness. For many crops, corn is a good predecessor (Table 2).

In northern corn-growing regions, where winter grain sowing dates fall before corn harvest, it is a good precursor for spring grains, potatoes and root crops.

The importance of crop rotation

Planning the planting of vegetable crops in the garden is of particular importance. It consists of the following:

• Firstly, pests and pathogens for a specific crop gradually accumulate in the soil. If we take potatoes as an example, we know that the Colorado potato beetle is extremely fond of them. And even a frantic fight against it does not completely destroy the pest. By planting potatoes next year in the same area, we create favorable conditions for the parasite. He does not need to look for food for himself. He immediately sets about destroying culture. The same applies to pathogenic microbes. For example, late blight accumulates in the soil year after year, and it will be more difficult to fight it the longer you plant a vegetable in one area. Celery, cabbage, cucumber, tomato, lettuce, and beans suffer greatly from such treatment.

Insect pests

• Secondly, each crop draws from the soil the nutrients it needs. And if you constantly plant a vegetable in the same place, the soil is simply depleted.

• Thirdly, each vegetable plant releases certain toxins (colins) through its own root system. They are very poisonous to the vegetable itself. The only difference is that some of them are less susceptible to their own colins the next year, and some die literally immediately. This is how spinach and beets react subtly to their own toxins. The most resistant crops in this regard are corn, legumes and leeks.

Advice: gardeners must learn the basic rule - they can plant crops in the same area no earlier than after 3-4 years.

We observe crop rotation. Winter crops

The best predecessors for winter crops are busy and clean pairs. Pairs are popular in the southeastern and steppe regions of the Forest-Steppe. Pure pairs are divided into early, black and backstage. The main processing of black fallows begins in the fall or summer after harvesting its predecessors, in the case of early fallows - in the spring of the new year. Tall plants are sown across the direction of the prevailing winds on coulisse pairs (in stripes) to prevent wind erosion of the soil. While weeds appear, clean fallows are treated with cultivators with harrows throughout the spring-summer period; by the time winter crops are sowed, enough moisture and nutrients accumulate in them and are then stored in the soil above, thanks to which, under any weather conditions, uniform germination of winter crops is guaranteed. There are fallow crops, which include winter crops (canola, rapeseed, perco, rye, vetch, wheat), as well as spring crops (vetch, sorghum, oats, peas, corn, lupine) for green fodder. They are grown in pure crops, as well as in the form of mixtures. After the fallow crops have been harvested, there is still enough time left to prepare the field for sowing and to ensure that a sufficient amount of nutrients and moisture accumulates in the seed layer. Employed couples are used in various zones of Ukraine. Good predecessors of winter crops are also perennial grasses and sweet clover for green mass. In Polesie, winter crops are planted on green manure fallows, on which the green mass of lupine (legumes) is grown as green fertilizer. As for non-fallow predecessors, the best for winter crops in various regions are peas and lupine in Polesie, and in Polesie - potatoes, flax, corn for silage, in the steppe regions - sorghum, melons and corn for silage. However, corn for silage in the Forest-Steppe is a bad predecessor, since when it is harvested (in the third ten days of August) there is very little time left until the time of sowing winter crops (in the first ten days of September). During such a period, the seed layer of soil does not accumulate enough moisture to obtain vigorous shoots of the sown crop.

Biological features of corn

Corn is a representative of annual plants. The root system is powerful, with tiers. Penetrates deep from 1.5 to 3 meters.

The growing season varies between 80-200 days, depending on the variety. The plant is thermophilic. Seeds are sown in heated soil. For seedlings to emerge, a temperature of at least 10 degrees Celsius is required. Tolerates spring frosts. The plant recovers after them within 7 days, new leaves appear. Autumn frosts can be destructive. Most varieties require a temperature of 22-24 degrees. The exception is cracking corn. In the post-flowering phase until full ripening, lower temperatures are needed.

The seedlings grow slowly, so they need additional watering in the absence of rain. The crop needs moisture when pouring grains. Pollination occurs with the help of wind. If there is no wind, corn is pollinated by hand. The panicles are shaken.

Shoots after rain need to loosen the soil and remove weeds. In the future, the corn will stretch out and kill the weeds without outside help. In the first weeks, the plantings are thinned out, leaving strong, healthy shoots.

The plant responds well to organic and mineral fertilizers. It produces high yields in fertile soil. Does not tolerate acidic soil, sandy soil, light soil, or heavy clay soil.

What microelements does the crop need in the soil?

Cultivated varieties differ from wild corn in their powerful growth and large cobs, as they receive a large amount of microfertilizers. For 100 kilograms of grain, up to 3 kilograms of nitrogen are required during the growing season. Due to the lack of an element, the plant does not stretch to its optimal length, the leaves become smaller. Plants especially need nitrogen during the flowering and ear formation phases.

One ton of grain requires up to 10 kilograms of magnesium, 30 kilograms of potassium, 12 kilograms of phosphorus.

Phosphorus deficiency is noticeable on the leaves, they acquire a purple tint, flowering and fruit ripening are delayed.

Potassium stimulates plant growth, promotes the formation of heads of cabbage, and prevents stem rot disease. With a lack of substance, the leaves acquire a dry yellow edge. Over time, they turn yellow completely and fall off. The plant needs microelements: copper, boron, zinc, manganese.

Shortage:

• copper - resistance to diseases is lost, productivity decreases;
• boron - crop growth stops;
• zinc - the cobs do not set, chlorophyll synthesis is disrupted, and resistance to climatic conditions is lost. Young leaves are covered with yellow stripes;
• manganese – affects fruiting.

See also

How to distinguish between feed and food corn, the best varieties and application

Read

Microfertilizers are applied during foliar and root feeding.

Groups of vegetable crops

To understand the rotation of crops in the garden, it is important to understand into which groups all plantings (vegetables and grains) are divided. They look like this:

What can you plant next to tomatoes?

They go well with tomatoes: corn, onions, carrots, peppers, radishes, watermelon, melon, parsley, celery, asparagus, spinach, neutral beans. Between the tomato bushes you can plant lettuce, and perhaps eggplant.

It is very good to plant flowers and protective herbs next to the tomatoes: marigolds, calendula or nastrutia. Basil and garlic planted nearby are also beneficial for tomatoes.

You can’t plant peas, cabbage, potatoes, grapes next to tomatoes; cucumbers and turnips are undesirable.

In turn, tomatoes have a beneficial effect on gooseberries - the smell of its tops repels the moth and sawfly from the berry bushes.

What can be planted and after what?

Here we will look at what is allowed to be planted and sowed after certain specific crops. The recommendations look like this:

• Carrot. It is best to plant cucumbers, early potatoes or onions at once. An acceptable option is planting after tomatoes or cabbage.

• Onion. It is better to place this crop on the soil on which cabbage, nightshade, cucumber or early potatoes grew in the past. If there is absolutely no choice, then it is allowed to plant onions after grains or legumes.

• Tomatoes. They are less demanding on the soil, so they are allowed to be placed in the former place of onions, legumes, cabbage, cucumbers or root vegetables.

• Cucumbers. Here the predecessors can be all legumes (except beans), onions, root vegetables, potatoes, cabbage, and nightshades.

Interesting: Why are cucumbers bitter, what to do

Growing corn through seedlings

Step-by-step instructions for planting corn seedlings:

Fill containers with soil mixture.

• Sprinkle generously with water.
• Plant the seeds to a depth of 3-4 cm.
• For successful germination, it is recommended to place the planting container in a warm place where the temperature is +23-25 ​​degrees.

Further care for corn seedlings at home or in a greenhouse:

• Within 5-7 days the first shoots will appear.
• After this, it is recommended to lower the temperature for 3-5 days to +15-18 degrees (day) and +13-15 (at night), which will help avoid stretching of the seedlings.
• Then increase the temperature to +20-23 during the day and +15-18 at night.
• Water moderately as the soil surface dries.
• Harden off 5-7 days before planting.

Video: growing sweet corn through seedlings

Planting corn seedlings in open ground:

• 3 weeks after germination, the seedlings will be ready for planting in the ground.
• By this moment, the corn seedlings should be well developed and have 4-5 leaves, and the root system should be well wrapped around the lump of substrate, thanks to which you can remove the seedlings from the cell of the cassette or cups without injuring or sprinkling the earthen lump.

• Corn seedlings are planted in the ground when the soil warms up above +14 degrees and the threat of return frosts has passed.
• The planting itself is standard, but the corn seedlings can also be buried, because it grows additional roots from each node.

Plant predecessors

There are suitable and undesirable precursors for a culture. This is explained by common diseases and pests.

Suitable

Corn seeds are sown on fertile lands. It is desirable that the predecessors be the following crops:

• tubers and root vegetables;
• grain legumes;
• winter cereals;
• melon crops.

Unsuitable

In regions with low humidity, it is not recommended to plant corn after sunflower. It dries out the soil.

After sugar beets, the soil not only loses moisture, the crop does not absorb phosphates well.

Advantages of the Queen of the Fields

The predecessor must clear the field early, leave behind structured soil, retain moisture and not accumulate pathogens. Corn as a precursor leaves behind a lot of organic residues, which enriches the soil with nitrogen, structures it, and also increases biological activity. After this crop, weed infestation in the area is significantly reduced, which contributes to better development of winter wheat.

One of the problems when growing corn for grain, as a precursor for winter crops, may be timely clearing of the field. After this crop, you need to have time to carry out the main processing and sow winter wheat. Previously, this was quite difficult to do with hybrids, which gave humidity up to harvest levels (20-24%) in October-November.

There are also examples of the use of desiccants on corn, which, under favorable weather conditions, helps reduce grain moisture to 7%. The best prerequisite for using desiccants is high temperatures, because on corn, desiccants dry out the leaves, stalk and cob wrappers, and high air temperatures promote the release of moisture from the grain.

After what to plant parsley and what to plant after parsley, and why?

Parsley shoots

• Parsley belongs to the Umbelliferae family, so it should never be planted after carrots, dill, celery and cilantro. Since they have the same nutritional needs, this will definitely affect the appearance and taste of this seasoning. The best precursors for this crop are garlic and all legumes.
• They saturate the soil with substances beneficial to parsley, and also kill all pathogenic flora. After parsley itself, nightshades will grow best in the garden bed. Therefore, after the parsley has been harvested, you can safely plant potatoes, tomatoes or eggplants in its place.

"Assembly flow" from vegetables

The so-called vegetable assembly flow is very convenient for the constant supply of the freshest greens and vegetables to the table. This collection flow begins when we plant greens in the garden in the spring. Crop rotation in this case helps to achieve better results.

The sequence of arrival of greens, vegetables, root vegetables on the table:

• In spring: feathers of perennial chives, spring onions, parsley, Jerusalem artichoke tubers left for the winter.
• A little later: sorrel, young nettles, rhubarb, onions planted at the end of April.
• Later: dill and radishes.
• From late May to early June: salad mustard, spinach, cabbage grown from seedlings, basil, coriander.
• Mid-June: early tomatoes and cucumbers, young potatoes, beets, bunched carrots.
• Late June: cauliflower and early cabbage grown by seedlings.
• July: tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage, beets, zucchini, carrots, broccoli, early potatoes.
• August: squash, legumes, corn, turnips, pumpkin, eggplant, sweet peppers.
• Autumn and winter: celery (transplanted into pots), onions, watercress, salad alfalfa, leaf mustard, grown at home.

Taking into account all the advantages of this approach, it is worth keeping in mind creativity when organizing plantings. Crop rotation in the garden will help with this, but you need to use it according to your needs, abilities and desires

What to plant after pumpkin

The location of plants in a summer cottage annually worries zealous gardeners who are engaged in preliminary planning of planting crops. Such close attention to proper placement is due, first of all, to the fact that this significantly affects the quantity and quality of the future harvest.

Usually, the soil tends to become depleted if the same vegetable crops are grown in the same place for a long time. They need to be replaced periodically. In addition, after harvesting grown vegetables, some substances remain from this crop that may have properties that are unacceptable for other plants.

The best solution, especially for a novice summer resident, would be not to conduct experiments with possible replacements yourself, but to take advantage of long-known experience in the agricultural field.

This article will talk about only one familiar and beloved vegetable - pumpkin, namely what to plant after pumpkin next year.

Plant tomatoes after tomatoes

It should be noted that we usually grow tomatoes in greenhouses. Most of them are permanent structures and cannot be moved, so we are forced to plant tomatoes in the same place.

But any crops have an impact on the soil and consume more of certain elements. Tomatoes also make the soil acidic, but they themselves prefer to grow in soils with neutral acidity pH 6.5-7.

Therefore, it is advisable to sow green manure legumes after harvesting tomatoes. In the spring, mow the grass for green fertilizer, make holes in the beds and plant the next batch of tomatoes.

If you are a supporter of deep plowing, then in the fall, when digging, you can add fluff lime at the rate of 50-80 g per 1 square meter. m.

After what to plant mustard and what to plant after mustard, and why?

• Most often, mustard is sown on a plot to renew the soil. This unpretentious plant helps restore the most depleted soil to normal. It is usually applied to the ground immediately after the crop is harvested.
• Before the onset of frost, it takes root quite well and thereby slightly loosens the soil and saturates it with phosphates. In winter, it prevents deep freezing of the soil and protects it from wind erosion. It grows well after almost all familiar vegetable crops.
• The only thing you should take into account is that after mustard, its relatives (cabbage, turnips, radishes, radishes, arugula) will develop poorly in the garden. After the mustard is mowed and harvested, you only need to dig up the soil and you can plant any vegetables and herbs in it

Corn as a precursor for winter wheat

Farmers strive for high profitability, so they sow crops that provide maximum financial return. Today, the most profitable crops are sunflower, soybeans and corn. The crop rotation of many farms consists of 3, or at best 5 crops. Therefore, corn as a precursor for winter wheat is not uncommon. This is what we will talk about today, about corn as a precursor for winter wheat.

No agronomist will tell you that planting wheat after corn is good. Of course, corn is not the best precursor for winter grains. But this happens in the modern world. Some people don't want to sow wheat after ClearField sunflowers. Some people don’t grow sunflowers at all. And some people don’t even understand what the difference is...

So, sowing winter grains over corn happens and happens. And since it happens, let's figure out when, how and what to do with corn and how best to sow winter wheat to get a good harvest.

Corn as a predecessor in traditional technology

In traditional technology, the field after corn must be mechanically prepared for sowing. Corn leaves a lot of crop residue on the field. First, they need to be crushed with a reaper or a special unit - a chopper, a mulcher. The header chops only what is above the cut that the combine makes when harvesting corn. The chopper works better because... crushes plant residues into smaller pieces and grinds the entire plant down to the soil.

Then the plant residues must be “sealed” into the soil with a disc harrow. The number of treatments depends on the yield. A “two-track” treatment may be required. And then the field needs to be cultivated. During processing, a “mixture” of soil and plant residues is formed. It is very difficult, almost impossible, to sow in such a “batch.” In addition, during processing, precious moisture is lost, and in this case, preparation for winter sowing also loses precious time.

Attempts to NOT cultivate the field and sow directly with seeders unsuitable for this always end in failure. All conventional and minimum tillage planters, as well as most direct seed drills, are unable to handle thick corn residue. For direct sowing of corn, you need a seeder capable of cutting a “cushion” of 8-12 tons of plant residues.

Corn as a predecessor in no-till technology

If the farm uses No-till technology or direct sowing, then there is no time lag - a delay in sowing due to the need to till the soil. The farmer immediately after harvesting begins sowing, without wasting time on disking and without losing precious moisture. Another important advantage of using direct sowing with no-till seeders is that fuel is saved during harvesting, since corn plant residues are not crushed. Also, the load on the combine is less - the resource of the combine itself increases and repair costs decrease.

Joint plantings

Joint planting of vegetable and green crops is very important when the area of ​​land is limited. In addition, they help increase the overall yield of garden crops and protect them from damage by many pests and diseases.

1. Beans grown between rows of potatoes make it possible to further enrich the soil with nitrogen, and potatoes protect legumes from bruchus.
2. Marigolds, nasturtium and calendula prevent potatoes from being damaged by the potato nematode.
3. White cabbage, corn, onions and garlic, eggplant and spinach, horseradish and mint are mutually beneficial neighbors for potatoes.

Good and bad neighbors of potatoes

For the success of growing vegetables, it is also necessary to take into account the principles of a healthy neighborhood.

The convenience of this approach is that it:

• prevents harmful substances from accumulating in the soil;
• promotes the most complete use of fertilizers;
• Helps effectively fight diseases and pests.

Based on this concept, you can make a list of plants with which cohabitation is most beneficial for potatoes.

Many years of experience in joint planting of potatoes with other crops have shown:

1. Neighborhood with potatoes is UNDESIRABLE for cucumbers, tomatoes and pumpkins;
2. Potatoes are “friends” with cabbage and eggplants;
3. Goes well with onions and corn. Their beneficial effect on potatoes is known;
4. A wonderful neighbor for beans - it protects it from bruchus, it “treats” it with nitrogen and protects it from such a malicious pest as the Colorado potato beetle;
5. Excellent neighbors for potatoes are spinach and horseradish.

All these crops are partners because they do not interfere with each other, consuming nutrients from different soil horizons.

Satellite flowers

Flowers are not in last place on the list of useful companion plants. They know how to not only delight the eye with their beauty, but also protect vegetable plantings from diseases and pests.

• It is useful to plant marigolds between rows: they are enemies of weevils, onion flies and cabbage whites, as well as a cure for fusarium.
• Nasturtium will save you from whiteflies and whiteflies. It is an excellent green fertilizer.
• Chamomile-pyrethrum is a threat to aphids, as well as caterpillars of the cabbage cutworm and white moth. Rodents don't like it either.
• Calendula is a potato protector against the Colorado potato beetle. It is recommended to border potato plantings with rows of calendula. In autumn it can be used as green manure.
• Lavender is a protector against ants and aphids.
• Dalmatian chamomile (tansy) is a natural enemy of many pests.

Popular varieties of corn

The first step in planting planning should be the selection of suitable varieties. There are a huge variety of different types on sale, however, not all are suitable for a particular region. Among the large list there are universal, proven options.

The best options for the middle zone:

• Dobrynya;
• Ice nectar;
• Spirit;
• Jubilee;
• Sundance;
• Gourmand;
• Pioneer.

Let's take a closer look at the most common ones.

Early maturing hybrid, up to 170 cm.

Any soil is suitable and is highly disease resistant.

High-yielding, very resistant to diseases.

The growing season takes up to 75 days. Up to 150 cm in height.

Pioneer

It became famous for its good resistance to low temperatures and high yields, which are not affected by the weather.

J. Seymour's rules

1. If potatoes are planted on heavy, damp soils, then other root crops can be grown there in the third or fourth year.
2. Legumes love well-limed soil, which potatoes do not like. Therefore, it is better not to plant potatoes after legumes.
3. Cabbage plants love lime, but not fresh lime. It is better to plant them after legumes.
4. Radishes, salads, cucumbers, tomatoes, and zucchini love rotted manure and compost. After them it is good to grow root vegetables.
5. In some places you can constantly plant spinach and dill).