Apricot Kyiv Early - description of the variety and reviews with photos

History of origin

Acclimatization of heat-loving crops is a huge task that deserves great respect. Thanks to Michurin I.V., apricots began to tolerate northern conditions well.

Frost-resistant apricot species were developed in the Ukrainian SSR in 1914-1935. Later, scientists from the Institute of Horticulture of the UAAS developed a new variety, which differs from many others in its improved characteristics.

Description of the variety

The trees are considered medium-sized. Their height rarely exceeds 3 meters. The leaves of the Early Kyiv apricot resemble the shape of a slightly elongated heart, the top is elongated, and there are small teeth along the edges.

In the description of the variety, fruits are given a special place. Apricots are of medium size, their weight is approximately 80 g. The shape is slightly elongated. Apricot pulp has a pleasant light yellow hue, juiciness, sweetness and slight sourness.

Pests and diseases

When brown spot occurs, all fallen leaves are removed and the plants are treated with Hom. Gray rot is neutralized by Horus. Cytosporosis is killed by using 2% copper sulfate.

If the Kiev apricot is attacked by the codling moth, the drugs “Benzophosphamide” and “Match 50” can protect the trees. Traps with a special sticky layer are additionally installed on the branches. “Kinmiks” or “Agravertin” will get rid of aphid invasion.

Sources:

https://seloved.ru/abrikos/rannij-opisanie.html https://selomoe.ru/sadovodstvo/abrikos/rannij-opisanie.html https://dachamechty.ru/abrikos/kievskij-rannij.html

Features of cultivation

When planning to plant apricots on your plot, you should immediately take into account the type of climate, topography and soil composition.

Choosing a place and time

Trees are placed on flat areas, without lowlands. The presence of groundwater closer than 2.5 meters is unacceptable, because apricot does not like waterlogging.

For the seedling, only the brightest corner of the garden, protected from the winds, is selected. It is very important to provide the crown with sunlight throughout the summer day. Otherwise, the shoots will stretch out and become thin, therefore, fewer ovaries will form. Subsequently, the taste and appearance of apricots will deteriorate.

The landing time depends on the areas. In the south, where warm autumn prevails, Kiev Early sets from October 15 to November 30. In these conditions, it is important to complete the work 14 days before the arrival of cold weather, otherwise the roots will not have time to grow stronger.

In areas with cold autumns, the ideal time for planting is early spring. When positive temperatures are established, the buds have not yet opened, and the soil warms up by 10 cm.

Selection of seedlings

Plants must be selected according to the following requirements:

• age - 1-2 years;
• height - approximately 70 cm;
• bark with no cracks or stains;
• the presence of 2-3 strong tap roots, 25 cm each;
• visible grafting - 10 cm from the root neck.

Landing rules

Holes are dug 14 days before planting. Added to the bottom:

• humus - 30 kg;
• superphosphate - 100 g;
• potassium sulfate - 100 g or ash - 400 g.

Attention! Acidic soils are preliminarily limed (500 g of substance per 1 square meter). 10 kg of compost with dry clay is added to the sandy soil.

Before planting, the roots of the plants are immersed in water for several hours to saturate them with moisture. The seedling is placed in a hole with its roots straightened. A stake of 80 cm is installed near the tree. The plant is filled up, the root collar remains open 5 centimeters from the ground.

Advantages

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What are the advantages of the Kyiv Early variety?

• Productivity – 35-50 kg of fruits per tree annually.
• Early fruiting - the first fruiting is observed 3-4 years after planting.
• Frost resistance.
• Good transportability. Peaches do not wrinkle on the road, but only if they are picked on time. Overripe fruits are too soft.
• The tree rarely suffers from powdery mildew and clasterosporia.

Now about the disadvantages. What will gardeners have to face if they decide to plant early Kiev peach?

• The tree's extensive canopy requires annual pruning.
• When overripe, the taste of the fruit deteriorates.
• The pit is usually difficult to separate from the pulp, which complicates processing.
• The variety is prone to curling.

1. There is a high yield rate (about 50 kg of fruit can be collected from 1 tree).
2. Ripening occurs in late June-early July.
3. Pleasant taste.
4. Excellent presentation indicators.
5. Low temperature resistance.
6. Resistance to cladosporiosis, parasites and powdery mildew.

Cladosporiosis rarely affects early Kyiv apricot

When planting, pay attention to the terrain.

1. Groundwater should not penetrate the root system of the tree; a place is selected where the depth of groundwater is more than 3 m.
2. High level of illumination.
3. The acid-base balance should be lower than 6%.

In the southern regions of the country, planting is carried out in late autumn before frost sets in. In cold areas, it is important to plant seedlings in early spring, when the buds on the trees have not yet blossomed and the soil has already been warmed to a depth of 15 cm. The choice of seedlings is a very important point.

Preference should be given to those seedlings that are 2 years old. Their height should be at least 60 cm. There should be no cracks or stains on the bark. The root system must be developed and have a length of 30 cm.

Holes measuring 70x70x70 cm are dug. The distance between the holes is at least 5-6 m. The seedling is placed in water in advance so that it receives the required amount of moisture, after which it is placed in the hole and covered with earth. The root collar should be visible.

Pay attention to the nature of watering. It should be rare and not abundant; due to the large amount of moisture, the root system will begin to rot. Watering should be carried out once every 7 days with a small amount of water (about 15 liters per bush). It is recommended to use drip irrigation.

As the soil dries out, it is important to loosen it. The weeding depth should be at least 10 cm. After this, you need to put a small layer of mulch around the seedling, which consists of straw and humus. This is necessary to prevent weeds from growing and moisture from evaporating.

It is recommended to fertilize young plants with minerals. Nitrogen in the amount of 40 g per 1 m2 is ideal. You can also use organic matter in the form of bird droppings or humus in an amount of 300 g per 1 m2. After the end of the fruiting period, it is recommended to add phosphorus and potassium for the winter, making a solution from them. 20 g of phosphorus and potassium are diluted in 10 liters of water.

The tree must be pruned. Every year, the top parts of the tree should be pruned by 30 cm. This is done in order to increase yields and prevent the occurrence of diseases.

Rules of care

Early Kiev apricot pleases gardeners with a rich harvest. But this requires following the rules of agricultural technology.

Watering and fertilizing

Young trees have a need for moisture. They are watered once every 2 weeks: 20 liters per plant.

Fruit-bearing Kiev apricot requires good watering 3 times per season - during bud break, after the formation of flowers, and 14 days before harvest.

If the Early Kyiv apricot is planted in soil that has previously been fertilized, no fertilizing is done in the first summer. Only next spring ammonium nitrate is applied to young trees at the rate of 30 grams per 1 square meter. Or organic matter is used. In autumn, phosphorus-potassium fertilizing is necessary.

Preparing for winter

Apricot Kyiv Early is winter-hardy. Frosts below 25 degrees damage skeletal branches and destroy buds.

The trunk must be whitened. An insecticide is added to the solution to prevent frost damage.

A layer of humus with straw is placed around the tree. When the weather sets in with a temperature of -2 degrees, the apricot turns around. Agrofibre or burlap is mainly used. For greater insulation, non-woven material is added.

Agricultural technology

A fruit tree will annually delight you with good harvests only if agricultural practices are followed.

Watering

Apricot has a fairly high drought resistance and does not like excess moisture. When water stagnates, the roots become damp, the growth and development of the tree deteriorates, and the yield decreases. However, during prolonged drought, the shoots grow weakly, the foliage withers, and the fruits become small and dry.

Young trees especially need moisture. They are watered once a week with 20 liters of water per plant. For fruit-bearing trees, watering three times a season is sufficient:

• during the period of bud break;
• after flowering;
• 2 weeks before fruit ripening.

Each tree uses 50 liters of water to moisten the soil to a depth of at least 70 cm. In autumn, if there is no precipitation on the eve of the first frost, water-charging irrigation is carried out (60 l/m2). Saturating the tree with moisture before the onset of cold weather helps to increase frost resistance.

When spraying water under pressure, the soil, trunk and crown of the tree are well moistened

Apricots are watered by sprinkling, using a drip irrigation system, or simply pouring water into the irrigation grooves. When sprinkling, which is carried out using a hose with sprinklers, water under pressure is sprayed over the crown and soil, which increases air humidity. To reduce moisture evaporation, such watering is carried out in the morning or evening hours.

During flowering, sprinkling is not carried out, otherwise the rain generated by the strong pressure will wash away the pollen, which will lead to loss of harvest.

Gardeners usually use groove irrigation, which is made around the trunk along the perimeter of the crown to a depth of 15 cm. Water from a bucket or hose is added into the irrigation grooves in several stages to thoroughly wet the soil. After moisture is absorbed, the grooves are sealed.

Water is added to the furrows in several passes to thoroughly moisten the soil.

Drip irrigation is convenient to use in large plantings: pipes or tapes with droppers are laid along the rows of apricots and water is supplied under pressure, which evenly flows through dispensers to the roots of the plants. At the same time, water consumption is significantly reduced and the soil is not washed away.

Video: the importance of watering in crop formation

The tree trunk circle must be kept free of weeds. After watering or rain, the soil around the tree is loosened to a shallow depth (8 cm) so as not to damage the suction roots located in the surface layer. Then straw and humus are placed around the trunk - a layer of mulch not only prevents the evaporation of moisture and the growth of weeds, but also protects the soil from overheating in the summer heat, and from freezing in winter.

To maintain moisture in the soil, the tree trunk circle must be mulched with humus

Feeding

If apricot seedlings were planted in well-fertilized soil, they are not fed during the first season. Only next spring, young plants in need of nitrogen are fed with ammonium nitrate (30 g/m2). Instead of a mineral composition, you can use organic matter (300 g/m2): chicken droppings (1:20 solution) or liquid manure (1:10) are poured into the furrows along the perimeter of the crown. In September, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (20 g/10 l) are applied to the trees.

Ash infusion is an effective organic fertilizer containing potassium, calcium and phosphorus

Fruit-bearing trees require more fertilizer:

1. Before the buds open, ammonium nitrate (40 g) or urea (30 g/m2) is distributed along the edge of the tree trunk circle.
2. After flowering, 30 g of ammonium nitrate and 15 g of potassium sulfate/10 l of water are added under the crown.
3. After the ovaries fall off, 150 g of ash/m2, containing potassium and phosphorus, is scattered on moist soil.
4. During the period of fruit formation, it is useful to feed the tree with superphosphate (30 g/m2).
5. Feeding apricots with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer (100 g/10 l) will help restore strength after fruiting.
6. Once every 5 years, lime (500 g/m2) must be added to acidic soils.

Excellent apricot harvests can only be obtained with timely feeding of the tree.

Among all the nutrients, potassium plays a decisive role in the development of apricot, which accelerates the development of the tree, increases drought resistance and disease resistance. Potassium deficiency in apricot can be determined by curling leaves, the appearance of yellow dots on them with a dark border, and pale coloring of the fruit.

On the eve of frost, manure is added to the tree trunk circle - 1 bucket for a young plant and 2 buckets for an adult. Autumn fertilizing is necessary to increase resistance to adverse weather conditions and low temperatures.

Experienced gardeners recommend combining root feeding with foliar feeding. It has been proven that when a nutrient solution is applied to the leaf, the tree is quickly saturated with essential microelements, and the yield increases by 20%. Before the buds emerge and after the petals fall, the crown is sprayed with urea (20 g/10 l). When the ovaries are formed, an ash solution (200 g/10 l) is added to the leaf.

Trimming

Regular pruning not only improves tree productivity and fruit quality, but also eliminates diseases. There are formative pruning, thinning, rejuvenating and sanitary pruning. In the first years of life, a beautiful compact crown is formed; the most suitable type for apricot is a sparsely tiered crown, the basis of which is 5–7 branches growing at a distance of 40 cm from each other.

Features of crown formation:

1. When planting in spring, the seedling is shortened by a third to speed up the establishment of the crown.
2. In the following seasons, the skeletal branches are arranged in tiers. In the second year after planting in the spring, a bottom row of 2 branches in different directions is formed. Their ends are cut by a third and the conductor is shortened.
3. The next season, 40 cm above the branches of the first tier, a second row of 2 branches is laid, and they are equalized in length.
4. In subsequent years, 2 new strong shoots are shortened, increasing the distance between branches by 10 cm. The conductor should rise above the branches by 25 cm. Excess branches on the central conductor are shortened and turned into overgrowing ones.

A sparsely tiered type of apricot crown begins to form immediately after planting

Less commonly, a tiered type of crown is formed, giving it a cup-shaped shape:

1. In the spring of the second season, 3 main branches are left on the tree, growing 20 cm from each other. The conductor is cut off above the upper branch.
2. The next year, 1 branch 60 cm high and 4–6 semi-skeletal branches are left on the first order branches.
3. After a year, 1 shoot is left on 6 main branches.
4. Subsequently, the branches are shortened by a third, and the branches that thicken the crown are removed.

Regulatory pruning is carried out on a fruit-bearing tree to lighten the crown. In order not to expose the trees to stress, no more than 1/4 of all branches are removed at once. They cut off drooping and crooked branches, tops, and root shoots that rob the plant of nutritional juices. After leaf fall, sanitary pruning is carried out: broken branches and damaged branches are cut off.

After finishing the work, the cuts are covered with varnish to avoid rotting of the wood.

The bouquet branches and spurs on which apricot fruits form die off after 2–5 years. As a result, the skeletal branches are exposed and the yield decreases. Restoring the crown of an aging tree with new strong shoots will help rejuvenate it and increase productivity. The branches are shortened, replacing them with lateral branches and fruit formations. Such rejuvenation must be carried out gradually, over 2–3 years.

The main purpose of anti-aging pruning is to prolong fruiting

Video: pruning apricot

Preparing for winter

Early Kiev apricot is a winter-hardy variety, but if frosts are too severe (more than -25°C), skeletal branches and trunks may be damaged and buds may die. Young plantings are especially vulnerable.

Before covering apricots, they should be prepared. Be sure to whitewash the trunk and bases of the skeletal branches with garden paint. You can add an insecticide to the paint - such whitewashing will not only prevent the appearance of frost holes, which often occur during sudden changes in winter temperatures, but will also get rid of many pests. After moisture-replenishing irrigation, the tree trunk circle is mulched. A thick layer of mulch made from humus and straw will reliably protect the roots from freezing. In established cool weather -2°C, tree trunks are wrapped in agrofibre, burlap - a material that allows air to pass through.

To insulate apricots for the winter, use non-woven material that allows air to pass through well.

Spring return colds are no less dangerous for apricots. Despite its winter hardiness, a drop in temperature to -1–2°C during the flowering period leads to the complete death of the opened buds. However, it has been noted that the trees tolerate strong cold temperatures during the budding phase well, and the yield does not decrease. Flowering can be delayed for several days by spraying the crown in early spring, after the snow has melted and the temperature has reached above zero (5°C), with a lime solution (1.5 kg/10 l).

The negative impact of frost on plantings can be mitigated by smoking. Heaps of straw and dry manure 70 cm high are laid out in the garden, sprinkled with damp earth on top and set on fire. Smoking is carried out in the morning for 2–3 hours, as a result of which the air temperature near the plantings increases by 1.5°C.

Smoking will help raise the ambient temperature by several degrees.

Pollinators

Early Kiev apricot is a self-fertile variety. Fruit ovaries are formed without additional pollinators. But the crop can be significantly more productive if trees of other early ripening varieties are planted nearby: Sambursky early, Lyutezhsky, Pineapple Kyiv.

During the flowering period, a strong increase in temperature and dry air lead to rapid drying of pollen and weak flight of pollinating insects. Spraying a flowering tree with sweet water (2 tbsp honey/10 l) will help attract bees.

In the rainy season, pollination can be improved using Ovary solution (2 g/10 l), which is sprayed on the flowers.

Early Kiev apricot blooms already in April

Disease Prevention

The variety is resistant to major diseases, but during prolonged rains, spores of fungi that cause brown spot and gray rot can develop on the tree, and aphids can appear during drought. Preventative treatment will help prevent the development of infections and pest invasions.

Table: apricot diseases

Photo gallery: diseases threatening apricot

Brown spot can be recognized by dark spots on the foliage and brown fruits

Rain and fog contribute to the spread of gray mold fungus

Cytosporosis is a dangerous disease that often leads to plant death.

Table: insect pests

Photo gallery: pests that reduce apricot yield

White-spotted leaf roller caterpillars eat leaves

The codling moth damages the pulp of fruits and can destroy almost the entire crop

Moth moth caterpillars damage buds, buds and ovaries, leading to a significant reduction in yield

Aphids, feeding on the sap of plants, weaken them

Description of the apricot variety Early Kyiv

Apricot varieties are divided into wild and cultivated, domestic and foreign, early, middle or late. Apricots also differ in the type and shape of the fruit, the height of the tree and many other criteria.

Most varieties are only suitable for growing in warm southern regions, but breeders have developed varieties that adequately resist frost and can be planted in central Russia. Among the early fruiting plants, there are winter-hardy specimens, a striking example is the early Kiev apricot.

Kievskiy Ranniy - frost-resistant early apricot variety

Origin of the variety

Michurin began to develop and improve heat-loving varieties. Beginning in 1914, early apricot varieties were bred by a specialist in the field of breeding, Kashchenko. Experts have improved the old varieties, and they succeeded. The Kiev early variety is suitable for cultivation in warm regions; with certain care, cultivation is possible in the northern parts of the country.

Read more:

1. Apricot Pineapple description of the variety: reviews and characteristics of the varieties Royal, Melitopol early and late, photos
2. Dessert apricot: variety description, photo, video
3. Red-cheeked apricot: reviews, photos, description of the variety. Apricot Red-cheeked - an unpretentious variety with high yield
4. Apricot monastery: description of the variety, photo

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Kyiv early

It is unique in description - winter-hardy, characterized by high resistance to diseases characteristic of fruit trees.

1. The tree is very productive, bringing up to 50 kg per year. fruit, and apricot lives up to 50 years.
2. Incredibly early fruiting. Apricots can be harvested already in the first ten days of July.
3. Winter hardiness down to -25 degrees. It is difficult to grow the variety in icy regions, but in many areas of central Russia this can be done.
4. The tree is tall, up to 3 m in size. The beautiful spreading and spherical shape of the crown allows us to classify apricot as an ornamental plant. Shoots grow quickly and vigorously, but the speed decreases as they reach fruiting age.
5. The leaves are round and slightly elongated, long and decorated with teeth. Flowering begins before the leaves appear on the tree. Already in March - early April, pretty pale pink flowers appear.
6. The fruits are large, weighty, a pleasant warm orange color, with an interesting blush. The thin velvety skin hides juicy, sweet and sour pulp.

Parasites and diseases

If brown spot occurs, then it is necessary to remove all fallen leaves and treat the plant with Hom. The solution is prepared in a ratio of 50 g per 10 liters of water. If gray rot occurs, treatment should be carried out with the drug “Horus” (5 g of the drug is added per 10 liters of water).

For cytosporosis, you can use 2% copper sulfate, which is sprayed on each plant. You can also use the drug "Hom", but only after all the buds have formed.

“Benzophosphan” or “Match 50” will help against the codling moth. You can install special sticky traps on the tree. In the fight against aphids, it is advisable to use “Kinmiks” or “Agrovertin”.

Other varieties of apricots

Among other early varieties, the following are famous among summer residents:

1. June. A high-yielding tree that produces beautiful fruits of medium weight. Smooth orange color of the skin, pleasant pulp. The fruiting period, like many other varieties, begins in the fourth year of life, and reaches its peak by 6–9 years. With a fruit weight of 30 g, a harvest of 32 kg is harvested from each tree. The name “June” was given by the harvest time - it falls in the middle and end of June. Other varieties are required for pollination. Very early fruiting and productivity are the main advantages of this variety.
2. Melitopol. The tree produces crops consistently and regularly, and is self-fertile. The fruits are larger than average: weight depends on the age of the apricot and on the conditions of their growth. Weight ranges from 35 to 60 g. The color of the fruit is orange, with a bright, vague blush, the pulp is very sweet. Ripening occurs at the beginning of July. Among other advantages, Melitopol is resistant to many diseases that usually affect apricot trees.
3. Chervnevy. A very interesting, winter-hardy fruit. Despite its winter hardiness, it is not recommended to grow it in very cold areas with spring frosts, since the latter destroy the flowers during the flowering period. Apricots weigh up to 40 g, with a yellow color covered with blush. The fruits ripen in June–July, depending on the region of growth.
4. Sambursky early. The variety can withstand temperatures below 27 degrees. Self-fertile, but requires additional pollination from other apricots. Fruiting occurs earlier than the Melitopol variety - at the end of June. The average fruit weight is 30 g. Apricots are larger when the yield is low and smaller when the harvest is more abundant. The fruits look like in the picture: covered with golden skin with a bright, cheerful blush.

Harvesting and marketing

Early Kiev peach begins to bloom in May. The first fruits can be harvested around July 15th. For fresh consumption, ripe fruits are removed, and those that need to be processed or sold should be collected during the period of technical ripeness. Peaches of this variety can be stored for 3-7 days in the refrigerator. But they should be in a dry container and unwashed.

Important!

It is necessary to collect and consume peaches of the Kyiv early variety before they begin to ripen. The fact is that due to low juiciness, they become too meaty, loose and dry. And their sweetness decreases. Such fruits are only suitable for compote.

The fruits have a universal purpose. First of all, of course, they are eaten fresh. Fresh peaches contain a lot of vitamins and beneficial microelements. This variety is also suitable for processing (compotes, jam, jam, baby puree). Fresh fruits can be sold on the market or in production for further processing.

Features of growing early varieties of apricot

Early varieties of apricot have the same “Achilles heel”: spring frosts easily destroy the opening flowers.

Early Sambur gives an additional, second wave of flower growth, so it is more difficult for frosts to kill hopes for a harvest from this variety.

1. Like other apricots, early ones are planted in southern, sunny areas. The better the area is illuminated, the stronger and more developed the tree will grow. It is important to protect the plant from frost and cold winds.
2. Groundwater should be as deep in the ground as possible, since trees cannot tolerate waterlogging.
3. Trees can be grown both on flat, flat terrain and on the smooth slopes of low hills. You cannot choose lowlands for planting because of the moisture and frosty air that accumulates in them.
4. Choose areas with fertile soil and low acidity. Acidity can be moderated with lime.

In warm climates, apricots are planted from October to November, completing work two weeks before the onset of cold weather so that the tree has time to acclimatize and take root in the ground. In the cold zone, it is wiser to start planting activities in early spring, when the ground has warmed up to at least 10 cm.

How to plant apricots in the spring in the Moscow region

Choosing a location on a site is an important stage; almost half of the success depends on it.

Attention! Northern slopes are not suitable for planting apricots; southern slopes are preferable.

For planting, a sunny, high place with a low groundwater level is determined. The more sun an apricot receives, the sweeter and tastier its fruit will be. It is imperative to provide protection from the wind, which can be buildings or structures - cold winter winds are destructive to the tree.

You cannot plant apricots in the shade, in a low area or in a damp place - you may not get fruit, the tree will not be able to grow in such conditions. If groundwater is close, you can use two planting methods:

• on a hill - when the area for planting is filled with at least 50 cm, the tree should be planted on a hill;
• with a drainage device - a drainage cushion is installed at the bottom of the planting hole to prevent the root system from deepening to the groundwater level and to remove moisture from the roots.

It is better to start preparing the hole in the fall, but if this is not possible, the hole can be made on the day the seedling is purchased. It is important to take into account the planting pattern - the minimum distance between young apricots in a row is 4 meters, between rows - 6 meters. We then adhere to the following plan:

1. We clear away debris at the proposed landing site.
2. Determine the size of the landing hole. The larger it is, the better the soil surrounding the plant will be, and the nutritional area will increase. The size of the hole directly depends on the size of the root system of the apricot seedling.
3. We dig a hole 50-70 cm deep with the required diameter.
4. Drainage is laid at the bottom of the pit - expanded clay, pebbles, crushed stone and even broken brick.
5. Add a layer of fertile soil, mineral complex fertilizer and organic matter (rotted manure, compost), on which the seedling will be installed.

The planting hole must be larger than the volume of the root system of the seedling.

1. The purchased seedling should first be prepared for planting in a permanent place:

• in the case of an open root system, the plant is soaked in water (with the addition of root formation stimulants and stress reduction) or in a clay mash to saturate the roots with moisture;
• If a seedling is purchased with a closed root system, the tree should be thoroughly watered in advance to reduce the risk of damage to the roots when removed from the transport container. The pot is carefully cut so as not to damage the roots. You can try to remove the seedling by turning it over and knocking on the container.

Before you look for a place to plant a peach, you need to purchase it. Such seedlings should only be purchased in specialized stores or garden farms, where sellers can document the variety of seedling. When purchased, a young tree should look healthy and without damage.

Important!

All varieties of peaches have almost the same wood appearance. It will be very difficult for an inexperienced person to distinguish the variety. Therefore, in order to be sure to buy an early Kiev peach, you should purchase it in trusted places.

The variety can only be planted in a spacious area where there is plenty of space and opportunities for tree development. The shade is not suitable; the young seedling needs a lot of sunlight. It is also recommended to avoid swampy, low-lying areas.

Rules for caring for apricots

For planting, they dig holes, arrange drainage in them and, straightening the roots of the seedling, carefully place it inside. Sprinkle with earth and water. The soil is mulched and, to protect against sudden frosts, protected with covering material.

Characteristics of almost all apricot varieties include drought tolerance and vulnerability to waterlogging.

1. Young plants are watered more often than older ones. Typically, trees need watering no more than three times a season, but the number of waterings increases during prolonged drought. Secrets: watering before winter improves winter hardiness; watering during flowering washes away pollen and reduces yield.
2. To protect against pests, the tree trunk circle is mulched and rid of weeds. Loosening should be done delicately so as not to harm nearby tree roots. Mulch helps apricots survive the winter cold.
3. Other important elements of care - fertilizing and pruning - increase apricot productivity and its resistance to frost and disease.