What can be planted after dill: this year or next year

You need to alternate garden crops on your site wisely, because it is not enough to simply swap them, you also need to know the sequence and crop rotation system.

When growing the same crop in one place for several years in a row, the soil is depleted, pathogens accumulate in it, and pests, out of habit, “gather” to their favorite vegetables. The situation can be corrected if you plant plants in other beds in the new season. However, not everything is as simple as it might seem at first glance.

What is crop rotation and why should you follow it?

In simple terms, crop rotation is the alternation of garden crops on a plot. Scientists identify 3 main reasons why it should be observed:

• the soil is less clogged with weeds, fewer pathogens and pests settle in it;
• with proper crop rotation, the optimal structure of the topsoil in which garden crops grow is maintained;
• With thoughtful crop rotation, the land is not depleted, but, on the contrary, is replenished with the necessary nutrients.

If you plant different crops in the same place every year, the soil will be healthier and its nutrients will be used more rationally. The thing is that some plants consume useful elements from the top layer of soil, while others consume them from the bottom layer. In addition, these substances are consumed in different quantities.

In addition, the roots of many plants release toxins. Usually crops from the same family are sensitive to them. This is especially noticeable in beds with beets, carrots and spinach. If you plant these vegetables in the same place for several years in a row, each subsequent harvest is usually worse than the previous one, since toxins inhibit the development of plants. Proper crop rotation neutralizes this effect, healing the soil.

The least sensitive to toxins secreted by their predecessors are legumes, corn, and leeks.

Even if the roots of plants almost do not emit toxins during the growing season, in the future plant debris - stems and foliage - can do so. Therefore, it is recommended to remove the tops of plants such as cucumbers, peppers, carrots, horseradish, cabbage, sunflowers, as well as numerous weeds at the end of the season from the beds and put them in compost heaps. Based on green waste, you can prepare organic fertilizers (infusions and decoctions), as well as pest control products.

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How to create a vegetable crop rotation table in garden beds

Depending on the volume of planting, crop rotation schemes are drawn up on the site. Due to the fact that dachas most often have a limited size, this can cause certain difficulties. For example, agronomists recommend leaving some part of the land untouched every year in order to properly restore its natural balance.

In small gardens this is an unaffordable luxury. Therefore, gardeners and gardeners resort to some tricks - sowing the beds with green manure or alternating crops that produce mutually beneficial substances and leave them behind in the soil.

Related crops, replacing each other in the same area for several years, create a favorable environment for characteristic diseases and “tame” pests, which know exactly where a delicious lunch is prepared for them. This can be avoided if you periodically “reset” the beds. The frequency of plant replacement is from one month to three years. Since the times of ancient farmers, part of the fertile land has been left fallow, allowing the soil to independently restore its potential through wild grains and even ordinary weeds.

How to alternate plants correctly

In order to properly alternate plantings and create a rational crop rotation scheme, it is important to know which family a particular plant belongs to. Because representatives of the same family, as a rule, suffer from the same diseases and are attacked by the same pests. For example, after lettuce and root celery, root rot pathogens often lurk in the soil. Cabbage can be attacked by cabbage fly, sometimes heads of cabbage are affected by clubroot, after which it is undesirable to plant the vegetable in this place for about 6 years. Thus, it is impossible, for example, to sow dill to replace carrots. These crops belong to the same family - Celery.

Interestingly, crop rotation should be observed not only when growing vegetables, as many mistakenly believe. If you think that flowers and medicinal plants cannot be “relatives” of vegetables, then you are mistaken. How can they! For example, tulips and slime onions are almost siblings. So, if you have laid out a bed in place of a flowerbed, this does not mean at all that vegetables will grow well in it. It is important to choose the right successor cultures.

Especially for you, we have compiled a table of the families that different cultures belong to.

Who is behind whom, what is behind what...

Crop rotation of vegetable crops should be carried out in a natural sequence. This section contains recommendations for sowing and planting plants in the correct order.

Tomatoes

This plant is the most “tolerant and tolerant” of its predecessors. But after tomatoes, not all vegetables can “feed on the soil.” Due to the high content of toxins in the tops, they must be removed from the field and disposed of. Before tomatoes, you can grow any type of cabbage, beans, tubers, onions and salads on the ground.

Vegetable crop compatibility

If you want to place the maximum number of different crops in one garden, you also need to consider their compatibility with other plants. Some “capricious” vegetables do not get along well with their neighbors, while tolerant crops, on the contrary, have a positive effect on their “roommates.”

Thus, carrots and onions are an example of ideal coexistence in the garden. The most dangerous pests of these crops are carrot and onion flies. But the carrot fly cannot tolerate the smell of onions, and the onion fly cannot tolerate the smell of carrots. Therefore, plants from such a tandem perfectly protect each other from insect attacks.

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Favorable neighbors for dill

Gardeners often noticed that dill and parsley do not get along in the same bed. Only one person survives. And all because greens are considered to be the same type of crop, which have a similarly developed root system that clogs each other during growth.

The above-ground part of the greenery can also prevent neighbors from growing, blocking it from the sun and heat. The different germination times of such crops allow only the strongest plants of the two planted to remain. The strong and tall umbrella beauty can kill not only tender parsley, but small root vegetables of radishes, radishes, spinach and sorrel.

Neighborhood is the key to rational use of the site

Proper proximity allows you to rationally use the area of ​​the site and increase the productivity of neighboring crops. Since plants actively help fight many pests and diseases, protecting their neighbors, the gardener saves significantly on the use of various chemicals in the fight against such problems. This makes the harvest more environmentally friendly and cleaner.

Interesting to know! In the wild, dill is found in southwestern and central Asia.

The best neighbors in terms of crop compatibility for aromatic spices are:

• Fennel;
• Onion;
• Sunflower;
• Beans.

Nutrient requirements of plants

Determining whether plants belong to the same family is only half the battle. Another important factor to consider when rotating crops is the plant's nutrient requirements.

When selecting crops for subsequent planting, you should know that you cannot plant the same bed with crops with a high need for microelements for several years in a row.

• Crops with high nutrient requirements: cabbage, potatoes, rhubarb, celery, asparagus, pumpkin, spinach.
• Crops with average nutrient requirements: eggplant, climbing beans, melon, kohlrabi, leeks, cucumber, radish, beets, tomato, horseradish, spinach.
• Plants with low nutrient requirements: peas, bush beans, onions, herbs, radishes, lettuce.

Correct crop rotation looks like this: in the first year, the most “gluttonous” crop is grown in the garden bed, in subsequent years - plants from the second and third groups, in the fourth year, fertilizers are applied and the crop with a high need for nutrients is planted again.

Thus, it turns out that each plant should return to its original place no earlier than after 4 years. To make this happen, it is best to divide the plot into small beds, and every year “move” the crops to an adjacent place.

Neighbors in the garden

Gardeners who have been growing vegetables for many years know which crops need to be planted nearby so that they grow and bear fruit better. Thanks to the right proximity:

1. The land plot is used rationally.
2. The soil is less depleted.
3. The amount of processing chemicals is reduced.
4. Plants get sick less often.
5. Productivity increases.

A successful combination of vegetables can not only protect them from pests, but also affect their characteristics. Thanks to the proximity of the sunflower, the cucumbers are crunchy and sweet. Spicy herbs add flavor to tomatoes and improve the taste of tomatoes.

Dill can be sown next to beans, onions, and fennel. When planted with cabbage, the cruciferous plant suffers less from insects. Tall umbrellas hide cucumbers from the heat. A sunflower will be a good neighbor for greenery.

Potato leaves serve as the main food for Colorado potato beetle larvae. The striped arthropod does not like the smell of dill. Some gardeners sow it between the rows; the tall bushes of the nightshade crop are not drowned out by the herb, and the tops suffer less from the pest.

Good predecessors of vegetable crops

Plants feed on those substances that previous crops did not take from the soil. When planning planting, keep in mind what to plant next in the garden.

The best plants to plant after dill

Massive tall sunflowers and corn greatly deplete the soil. After such crops, experienced gardeners plant green manure to give the soil a rest and replenish its strength. Therefore, such strong plants are not the best option, after which you can plant dill.

After dill, it is allowed to grow eggplants and tomatoes, without fear for the yield. What else can you plant after dill to increase your harvest?

Attention! After dill, you can plant crops such as zucchini, squash and pumpkins - they respond remarkably well to the growth of the green beauty last season.

When understanding the question of what is best to plant after dill to improve productivity, you should pay attention to greens. It will prepare the soil and help grow a good harvest of potatoes, peas and legumes, peppers, and cabbage in the future.

But a real boon for cucumbers will be preparing the soil several years before planting their beds. In the first year, onions or garlic should grow there, which will drive aphids out of the soil with their smell. Next, dill will grow, which will consolidate this result. And already in the third year you can grow cucumbers. And they will have to be treated for pests much less often, especially for aphids.

What to plant after dill for the same season. As a second planting, wonderful beds with cucumbers and cauliflower will emerge. The land will be protected from aphids, and there is still enough food for the development of these crops.

Green manure for soil health

Supporters of organic farming manage to do without mineral fertilizers by correctly alternating plants in the beds. After all, there are plants that enrich the soil with useful substances. First of all, we are talking, of course, about green manure - green fertilizers with a powerful root system and rapidly developing green mass. They are sown between the main crops or in areas empty after harvest, and then mowed and plowed into the ground.

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But there are also plants that can produce crops while also improving the quality of the soil. Such crops include, for example, legumes (peas, beans, etc.). Nodule bacteria on their roots enrich the soil with nitrogen.

If you plan to use legumes as green manure, it is important that they have time to bloom, since nodules on their roots form during this period.

And perennial legumes with a strong root system, including, for example, alfalfa, extract nutrients from the deep layers of the soil and share with vegetables whose roots are located near the surface.

To increase soil fertility, do not leave the beds empty. During the “shift change”, sow the area with green manure: white mustard, phacelia, rapeseed. These crops can also be used to make compost for the plants you plan to plant next season.

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Thanks to green manure plants, you can significantly improve the soil and prevent weeds from taking over empty areas.

Let's look at the diagram in reverse (what to plant after specific crops)

When figuring out what can be planted next year, you can do the opposite. Namely, to find out what exactly can or should be planted after certain types of plants. The list looks like this:

• After garlic. It is allowed and even very good to sow/plant potatoes or beets. It is important to remember that onions belong to the same group as garlic. This means that after it you can plant the same crops.

Tip: sometimes experienced gardeners plant garlic between potato rows or vice versa. Such proximity in the beds is very beneficial for both types of plants.

• After cucumbers. There are more options here. You can place potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, onions, carrots, beets, eggplants or garlic, dill on the plot. It is also allowed to plant radishes and turnips.

• After cabbage. Everything is the same as after the cucumber, plus different types of legumes, zucchini and squash, as well as pumpkin.

• After the pepper. Here you can plant everything that is allowed to be placed after nightshades. Such crops include garlic and onions, legumes, root vegetables, cucumbers, and greens. But you should exclude potatoes from root vegetables.

• After potatoes. Here it is allowed to plant bulbous crops, squash, zucchini and pumpkins, legumes, cucumbers and root vegetables. The list also includes cabbage.

• After the tomatoes. It is allowed to place legumes, cauliflower and white cabbage, and green crops. Sometimes it is permissible to plant root vegetables, onions or cucumbers.

• After beets, carrots, cauliflower and white cabbage, cucumber and onions feel great. It is permissible to plant tomatoes or garlic.

• After the zucchini, it is best to place eggplants, peppers or potatoes on the plot. Tomatoes are also acceptable.

The tables below provide visual information about what can be placed in vegetable gardens and when.

Interesting: Growing pumpkin correctly for a good harvest

Herb crop rotation

Dill belongs to the annual herb family Apiaceae. It is found in Asia in the wild, and in garden beds it can be seen all over the world. The plant can reach one meter in height, is not demanding in care, and can withstand minor frosts. Due to its beneficial properties, the culture is used both as a seasoning and for medicinal purposes.

The herb grows comfortably in fertile soil, in a warm, sunny and humid environment. It does not always grow in acidic soil.

Note! It is important to understand that dill receives many useful substances from the ground only when the place where it is planted is changed.

Crop rotation plays an important role in obtaining a good harvest. You should constantly change the location of the bed and take into account what is growing in the neighborhood. After all, some vegetables have the same diseases or pests.

Despite the fact that the green seasoning is not too dependent on the choice of bed location, it is very susceptible to aphids. You can get rid of it with the help of onions, which are planted in the garden. Garlic can also destroy spores, after which you can safely plant the spice.

Insects cannot tolerate this plant. You can plant dill after cucumbers, cabbage, tomatoes, corn, peas or after beets.

Characteristics of garden crops and organization of fruit rotation

Russian gardeners, even in small plots, manage to grow dozens of varieties of vegetable and green crops every year. According to their botanical “kinship” and the specifics of cultivation, they can be divided into the following groups:

When allocating space for planting ornamental plants, it is also necessary to take into account their belonging to certain families.

In addition, it makes sense to take into account such an obvious fact as a decrease in the number of weeds in those areas that last season were occupied by plants that form a powerful leaf mass (representatives of pumpkin plants, cabbage, tall tomatoes, etc.). The simplest option for garden crop rotation can be considered a simple ban on placing crops belonging to the same families that just grew in the garden bed . This, at a minimum, will protect new plantings from pathogens accumulated in the soil.

Taking into account the features indicated in the table, the “rotation” of garden plants can be planned in accordance with the following principles:

1. "Tops-Roots" . The garden bed alternates plants with shallow and powerful roots, compacting and loosening the soil. For example, tomatoes - with carrots, and cucumbers - with beets.
2. "According to fertility requirements" . Most garden plants do not tolerate contact with active organic matter well. The best option is to add rotted manure or humus to the ground in the fall for digging. In the following seasons, crops in freshly fertilized areas should be placed in a sequence that takes into account their fertility requirements. For example, pumpkin or cabbage - nightshade - umbrella or goosefoot - onion - legumes. At the same time, it is important not to forget about the individual ability of each crop to deplete the soil, “pulling” specific substances from it, and to apply appropriate mineral fertilizers.
3. "By Best Predecessor" . The method makes maximum use of information about garden crops. On the Internet it is presented in the form of numerous tables reflecting all the “relationships” of popular plants. True, choosing the best placement option every year is not so easy, especially if the entire garden occupies a small area. In such cases, it makes sense to treat this method “without fanaticism” and plan fruit replacement, excluding only unacceptable “predecessor-successor” combinations.

Depending on the thickness and depth of the root system, plants “pull” nutrients from different layers of the soil

Options for rotation, which has negative consequences when growing common vegetables in small areas, are given in the table:

Separately, it is worth mentioning garden strawberries (strawberries). The crop has a shallow root system and average demands on soil fertility, but needs periodic “renewal”, which means additional area for the annual planting of young plants.

Strawberries respond well to potassium-phosphorus fertilizers applied at the stage of flowering and ovary formation

As a rule, the area under the berry garden is divided into 4 beds, three of which contain strawberry bushes of different ages, and the fourth contains legumes or onions. At the end of the season, the oldest strawberry bushes are dug up and destroyed, the bed is dug up and fertilized for the spring planting of onions, spring garlic, beans or beans, and young strawberry “rosettes” are planted on the former “legume” planting. When repeated annually, the berry plot operates in its own crop rotation mode. If you move the entire plantation, it is important to know that after nightshades and cucumbers, strawberries cannot be planted for 3-4 years.

For beginning gardeners, organizing fruit production seems extremely difficult, but this is not so.

The most visual planning of the territory is obtained in the form of a three-dimensional image - a 3d model

Even with a complete lack of gardening experience, you can solve the problem by approaching it competently and systematically:

• assess in advance (even in winter) the real needs of the family for the harvest, both quantitatively and qualitatively;
• make a list of the required crops, plan the approximate number of future plants of each type;
• draw a plan of the garden, divided into beds of the required size;
• outline the placement of crops in the beds, taking into account such factors as the autumn application of organic matter, watering possibilities, last year’s location of the “predecessors”;
• When sowing and planting in the garden, follow the planned plan and keep a journal, recording the “current” placement of crops in the beds.

To organize a simple version of fruit rotation, it is enough to divide the available land area into 4-5 zones.

Zoning is made conditional or clearly demarcated with the help of special structures and garden design elements: high beds, trellises, paths, hedges, etc.

Planting groups of plants (followed by “rotation”) could, for example, be like this:

1. The first zone is zucchini, squash, cucumbers.
2. The second is garlic, onion “for turnips” and “for feathers”.
3. The third is cabbage (cabbage, Chinese cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli).
4. Fourth – peppers, eggplants, tomatoes.
5. Fifth - carrots, beets, radishes, daikon.

Crop logs and planting plans should be kept year after year. By coordinating with them and following the rules of crop rotation, placing crops in the garden in an optimal manner is not so difficult.

Basic neighborhood rules for sour green plants

Sorrel is a real paradise for lazy gardeners, because there is very little hassle with it. To sow it, it is enough to choose a slightly shady place, but there should be no water there, otherwise the sorrel will flood. Strong sunshine is also contraindicated for the plant, otherwise the foxes will dry out and turn brown. An area with spreading shade, moderately sunny and moderately humid is an ideal option for growing sorrel.

You can plant sorrel anywhere; it will successfully take root with almost any plant. The best neighbors of sorrel will be berry crops, including currants, gooseberries and raspberries. They create a pleasant shade for the sorrel, which helps the berry fruits become juicier and tastier by putting its powerful root system into action.

Sorrel, growing in one place, can produce leaves for more than 4 years in a row. After this, it is recommended to change the location. This plant feeds on trace elements from the ground at a certain level; this feature allows it to produce crops for several years in a row.

Sorrel belongs to the buckwheat family, and it is not recommended to plant related families in one place; this leads to soil depletion, plant diseases and a meager harvest.

Important! You should not plant sorrel only in a place where any greenery has grown for a long time.

Care

If you follow the sowing rules, it is easy to care for the crop. However, due to the agroclimatic conditions of the Leningrad region, growing dill still has its own characteristics. The region has more precipitation, a long spring, and cloudy weather prevails. All these factors influence the agricultural technology of dill cultivation, even of zoned varieties.

Watering

The appearance of seedlings is a signal for the first moistening if there is no precipitation. In conditions of soil drought and hot weather, water the greens daily in the morning. To prevent moisture stagnation in the roots, monitor the condition of the soil in the tree trunk circles. If it remains wet, there is no need to water the bushes until it is completely dry.

Soil treatment

Weeds compete for food and moisture with cultivated plants. In order for dill to fully develop, they are systematically burned. To save time and effort, do this simultaneously with loosening. The latter ensures air and water permeability of the soil, allowing the plant to quickly grow green mass. Loosen the soil in tree trunk circles weekly after the next watering or precipitation.

Top dressing

Fertilizer application is an important agrotechnical measure that allows you to obtain a high yield of any crop. Dill is no exception

At the beginning of active growth, a solution of bird droppings, which is prepared from 1 part organic matter and 20 parts water, shows a good result. The second mandatory feeding includes mineral complexes with a high concentration of phosphorus and potassium. The latter strengthen plant immunity, improve metabolism, and the absorption of available macro- and microelements from the soil.

Prevention and protection from diseases and pests

Among the pests on dill shoots, aphids are most often noted. The sucking insect spreads quickly and can cause large crop losses. To protect greens from pests, use a mixture of tobacco dust. Insecticides should not be used, as the shoots are eaten. To prepare a protective mixture, take tobacco dust and sand in equal proportions. Then the bushes, as well as the tree trunks, are treated with the thoroughly mixed preparation.

To avoid wasting time fighting diseases when cultivating dill, it is recommended to plant varieties with resistance to the most common pathogenic organisms. Another effective preventive measure is compliance with crop rotation. You cannot plant dill in the same place every year: a large supply of fungus accumulates in the soil. If manifestations of the disease have already been noted, the plantings are treated with a biological product or folk remedies.

For information! During periods of prolonged heat, tension canopies are built over the dill to preserve the richness of the greenery and prevent oppression of the crop.

Potato

Potatoes, as a rule, occupy more than one bed on a plot. The peculiarities of growing vegetables make it possible to place a number of other crops on the free furrows. As an additional crop to the root crop, is it possible to plant dill next to the potatoes so that the greenery will delight you throughout the season? In the new season, in place of last year’s potato plantations, you can safely plant a bed or two of dill. This will be quite enough for the needs of the family.

Reference! Dill does not like proximity to other umbelliferous plants - cumin, celery, cilantro, anise.

Next to which crops dill takes root well and produces a rich harvest, we described in a separate article.

We plan wisely

It is not news that constantly planting the same crops in the same places leads to a deterioration in the harvest. This is explained by several factors:

The situation is identical with other plants. The only difference is the lack or excess of harmful factors. In areas where the same plants constantly grow, pests that are dangerous specifically for this species accumulate, therefore, the crop’s chances of survival are sharply reduced. This situation is especially typical for tomatoes, cucumbers, potatoes, beans, salads, and celery;

You can cope with these harmful factors by rotating crops year after year. This technique is called crop rotation. In order not to delve into long explanations and scientific justifications, we present the fundamental principles (rules) of crop rotation, following which will lead to a bountiful harvest:

The same rule applies to pests. Some cultures are simply not afraid of diseases and their pathogens. For example, aphids will not be able to reproduce where tobacco or garlic grows. The Colorado potato beetle avoids thyme. If these plants are planted in areas where there are especially many pests, then you can quickly get rid of them for several seasons;

Alternating different crops will avoid soil depletion, the proliferation of harmful insects and bacteria, and will also ensure an even load on the soil of different root systems.

Another important factor for changing the planting location of different crops is the destruction of weeds. For example, it is better to plant onions, garlic, carrots and parsley in the place of plants that leave a minimum amount of weeds behind. These are tomatoes, legumes, cabbage.

Good and bad neighborhood options

When choosing adjacent beds, it is necessary to take into account colins, which can be poisonous for some species, and serve as fertilizer for others. Colin mustard is good for carrots, so this would be a good neighborhood example. Potatoes and peas get along well with each other, as they enrich the soil with nitrogen, which promotes better growth. Corn is very demanding on the soil; beans are a good companion for it, which enriches the soil with macroelements, and it uses corn as a support. Onions and carrots are also in an “advantageous” neighborhood, since they repel flies of the same name from each other.

After what crops can onions be planted before winter? The future onion harvest on the site depends on what plants were placed in the outgoing season

Therefore, it is important…. Onions and garlic will be good neighbors for dill.

These crops produce phytoncides, which repel green pests such as aphids and psyllids. Dill itself is a protector for potatoes from the Colorado potato beetle, and for cabbage from caterpillars and other insects; it carries out its protective properties thanks to its spicy aroma. The umbrellas that form on dill protect cucumbers well from the summer sun, which improves the taste of cucumbers

Onions and garlic will be good neighbors for dill. These crops produce phytoncides, which repel green pests such as aphids and psyllids. Dill itself is a protector for potatoes from the Colorado potato beetle, and for cabbage from caterpillars and other insects; it carries out its protective properties thanks to its spicy aroma. The umbrellas that form on dill protect cucumbers well from the summer sun, which improves the taste of cucumbers.

Bad neighbors are those plants that can inhibit each other's growth or provoke diseases. So you can’t plant sunflowers and tomatoes next to potatoes, because these crops can cause late blight disease in potatoes. Onions do not get along well with beans, as they slow down their growth; for the same reason, it is not recommended to plant corn and beets together. Pumpkin and zucchini should also not be planted together, because this leads to cross-pollination, resulting in a terrible, incomprehensible taste of the hybrid vegetable. It is not advisable to plant tomatoes or peppers next to dill, as the greens slow down and stifle their growth.

Important! Carrots are a bad neighbor for dill, because it contributes to diseases of these plantings.

If you do not observe crop rotation and do not take into account the right neighbors, then not a single crop, not even dill, will produce either a good harvest or excellent seeds. And if you constantly neglect these tips, the land will lose its fertility.