28 ways to speed up the ripening of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and other vegetables

How to speed up the ripening of tomatoes

1. Water the bushes with a pink solution of potassium permanganate for 2-3 days.

2. Spray the plants on the leaves with iodine solution (30-35 drops per 10 liters of warm water). Once a week, water the tomatoes at the root with iodine (20 drops per 10 liters of water), mixed with 1 liter of fermented milk whey. Consumption per bush is about 2 liters.

3. Using a pointed wooden stick, make 2-3 punctures (to a depth of 2-3 mm) near the stalk. The fruits will ripen faster, but will not be stored for a long time.

4. Place the banana peel in a plastic bag and tie it directly on the bunch of green tomatoes. After 2-3 days, remove the bag.

5. Reduce watering and fertilizing with mineral fertilizers.

6. To quickly ripen tomatoes in a greenhouse, close it for a day. And after this time, ventilate in the evening to get rid of condensation.

7. Pull the tomato bush towards you so that the roots of the bush are slightly torn. Then the plant will send all the nutrients to the fruits.

8. Remove newly formed buds from fruit clusters. They still won’t have time to form fruits.

9. Pinch the tops of the tomatoes above the fifth bunch.

10. Spray clusters with newly set fruits with superphosphate extract. For this, 2.5 tbsp. superphosphate, pour 1 liter of hot water, leave for 24 hours, then strain.

11. In cool weather, cover the tomatoes with plastic wrap at night.

12. To prevent the fruits from touching the ground, place supports under the lower clusters and rotate them so that the tomatoes are illuminated by the sun.

13. If the temperature at night drops below 10°C, remove the unripe fruits along with the stalk and place them for ripening.

• How to speed up the ripening of green tomatoes at home

  Don't know how to ripen tomatoes? Then read this article!

14. If signs of late blight appear on the leaves, pull out the bushes by the roots and hang them in a warm room, top down. The fruits will quickly turn red due to the influx of nutrients from the leaves and stem.

15. Wrap the stem at a height of 3 cm from the ground with thin copper wire. However, try not to cut it completely. Thanks to this technique, less nutrients will flow to the roots, and more to the fruits.

16. Place thick plastic bags with a slit at the bottom on the green tomato trusses. Inside such a cap the air temperature will be higher, and the fruits will ripen faster.

How long does it take for a pepper to ripen?

The growth and ripening of bell and bitter peppers takes place in several stages, each of which has its own characteristics.

1. It takes 13-15 days from seed germination to the formation of strong and healthy seedlings.
2. After the appearance of 2 cotyledon leaves, 17-20 days pass before the formation of the first true leaf.
3. It takes the plant 6-7 days to form each further true leaf.
4. The budding stage depends on the specific pepper variety and can occur 50-95 days after germination.
5. After the formation of the first bud, 14-24 days pass until the stage of intensive flowering.
6. It takes at least 5-6 days for each bud to bloom.
7. From the date of formation of the ovaries to the stage of technical maturity, 25-30 days pass; after another 20-30 days, full biological ripeness of the pepper occurs.

The ripening time of bell and bitter peppers depends on their varietal. For early-ripening species, technical maturity occurs 75-80 days after the appearance of the first shoots, for late-ripening species - after 150-165 days.

How to speed up the ripening of peppers and eggplants

17. To allow the roots to “breathe”, regularly loosen the soil to a depth of 5-7 cm.

18. Remove all fruits that have reached the desired size and place them in a warm place to ripen.

19. On a tall stem, using a sharp knife or blade, make a through longitudinal cut 7-10 cm long, 15 cm above the soil surface. Insert a wooden chip 4-5 mm thick into it. Then the plant will direct nutrients not to the leaves, but to the fruits.

20. Treat the leaves of the plants with infusion of ash (2 cups per 10 liters of water).

Pepper maturity stages

The maturity of bell and bitter peppers can be of two types - biological and technical. In the first case, the pepper fruits fully correspond to the declared varietal characteristics - in color, size and taste.

Technical maturity is unripe fruits of greenish color. Pepper can be harvested at any stage of ripeness - biologically mature fruits are picked for fresh consumption and for preparing various dishes. At the stage of technical maturity, peppers are removed from the bush for canning and long-term storage.

Technical

Technical maturity is the stage of vegetative development at which the fruits already have the required size, but differ in color. If biologically ripe pepper can have a red, yellow, orange, purple or brownish color, then during technical maturity it is only green, slightly yellowish or whitish.

Technically mature fruits are removed from the bush for long-term storage (up to 8-10 weeks), transportation or sale.

Biological

Biologically mature fruits are fully ripe peppers with a characteristic red, orange, purple or black-brownish color with seeds. The fruits ripen gradually and can be picked from the bush every 5-7 days.

Such a harvest cannot be stored for longer than 10-13 days, so it is immediately consumed as food and used for preparing various dishes and winter preparations.

When growing hot pepper, you need to take into account that it is removed from the bush only after reaching full biological ripeness. Unripe fruits do not have a characteristic pungency; their taste differs from those stated in the description of the variety or hybrid.

How to speed up the ripening of onions

27. Dried onions ripen faster and do not rot, so stop watering them for about 10-14 days. And in rainy weather, cover the bed with transparent plastic film.

28. Rake the soil away from the bulbs until about half of them are exposed. This way they will ripen faster, since they will be warmer in the air than in the soil.

After breaking out the arrows, the garlic must be tied into a knot. This will serve as a signal for him to direct nutrition not to the tops, but to the bulb. You also need to rake the soil away from the bush so that the bulb is slightly exposed. That's what my grandmother did. (Alevtina Zamaraeva)

What effective ways do you use to speed up the ripening of vegetables?

Tips and tricks

To grow healthy, strong bushes and obtain a rich harvest of tasty, juicy and crispy fruits, you need to take into account some of the subtleties of the agricultural technology of bell and bitter peppers.

1. When growing different types of peppers, you need to remember the rules of crop rotation. It can be planted in beds after nightshade crops no earlier than after 3-4 years. The best “predecessors” are considered to be white cabbage, cucumbers, beans and peas.
2. If pepper is grown in one area for several years, the fertile qualities of the soil can be improved with the help of green manure. After harvesting, sow the garden with green manure, and at the end of autumn, mow down the lush above-ground part and embed it in the ground while digging to the depth of a spade bayonet.
3. To feed peppers, you cannot use fresh chicken manure, cow or horse manure. They must be diluted with clean water (litter 1:20, manure 1:10), otherwise the organic compounds will burn the delicate plant.

Every summer resident can speed up the ripening of bell and bitter peppers using simple, affordable and effective agricultural techniques. Proper watering, formation and feeding of the bush, regular loosening and mulching of the soil in the garden or greenhouse will help speed up the ripening of tasty, large and juicy fruits.

Methods used to ripen peppers and tomatoes at home

To plant peppers and tomatoes, three methods are used, depending on the conditions and the number of fruits.

The first method is in a stack. This option is usually used when there are a large number of fruits. The bushes are cut and stacked, pointing the tops towards the center. The height of the stack is about half a meter. The entire structure can be insulated with straw.

The quality of the laid fruits is checked every two days.

The second method is on bushes. This method requires a large heated room in which the collected bushes with fruits are placed. Plants are hung with their tops down so that beneficial substances reach the fruits, helping to accelerate ripening.

The third method is that the fruits, carefully selected for ripening, are placed in boxes or baskets. It is worth considering that fruits should not be placed for ripening in a cold room with high humidity. In such conditions they can simply rot. To reduce the effect of moisture, you can sprinkle the fruits with sawdust. To obtain high-quality ripened fruits, it is necessary to regularly sort them, setting aside those that are ripe and rotten.

For private use, the traditional method is quite suitable. Stack and bush ripening methods should be used on an industrial scale.

What to do with green peppers. GREEN PEPPER - what to do.

Rita Alieva

These are Italian peppers, I only like them fried. I tried to roll it up, but it turned out crap. But it tolerates freezing very well. I have frozen it both fresh and already fried. If you find a good canning recipe, please share))

According to the Lunar calendar

Summer residents very often turn to the Lunar calendar when working on the site. According to him, it is recommended to harvest crops during the full moon, supposedly to preserve all the beneficial juices and substances.

By growing peppers in a greenhouse, the gardener can determine when to harvest them, because the weather does not directly affect them. When growing peppers in open ground, the timing of fruit harvest depends on weather conditions. On average, bell peppers begin to be picked from the bush in mid-August and continue to be collected until the end of September. The fruits can be picked every seven to eight days. It is important to get there before frost.

Choosing a pepper variety for indoor growing

Of course, you can try to grow greenhouse varieties at home, but it is best to purchase determinate varieties (low-growing, early-ripening) for planting. Such peppers have a small bush size of 25-65 cm and a compact root system and can grow well in a pot, hanging plant pot or other small containers. Varieties and hybrids bred for indoor cultivation are usually productive, with a long fruiting period.

Interestingly, some varieties of peppers can bear fruit from 2 to 5 years. After 2-3 years, it is better to replace the old plant with a new one, using its own seeds.

Here are several varieties of sweet peppers - hybrid “Little Chanterelle F1” (small-fruited fruit weight 25-45 g, ripening period 100 days); variety “Golden baby sweet” (height 50cm, fruit weight 15-20g, ripening period 95-100 days); variety “Swallow” (small fruits, weighing up to 85 g); hybrid “Artist F1” (really sweet pepper, 50 cm high, early ripening 62-65 days, weight 40-50g).

Popular varieties of hot peppers for indoor cultivation are the “Tabasco” variety (height up to 90 cm, the fruits are hot, small 5 cm, directed upward); variety “Medusa” (moderately spicy in taste, elongated fruits, 5 cm in length); variety “Ogonyok” (height 45-55cm, weight 30-45g, quite sharp); variety "Chili" (decorative pepper, but edible).

You can collect seeds from varietal peppers, and only then plant them from your own seeds. Growing peppers on a windowsill, balcony or loggia is no different from growing them in a garden plot. But there is still one difference - this is that their seeds can be sown at any time of the year, they also sprout in 5-10 days. So if you plant peppers in January-February, the fruits will set no earlier than June.

Why peppers don’t turn red: the main reasons

It happens that peppers, having become large, remain green for a long time - they do not turn red. There are several reasons why fruits do not ripen. The gardener’s task is to find out what exactly caused the slowdown in the redness of the pepper, and based on this, take appropriate measures.

Features of the variety

Often, gardeners try to get high-quality peppers from seeds obtained from store-bought vegetables. It is useful to know that most of the large and beautiful peppers were brought to Russian supermarkets from warm countries or from the south of Russia.

Why do peppers not turn red?

• Zoning. Vegetables grown somewhere in Egypt, Turkey or the Krasnodar Territory are not suitable for regions with a temperate climate. Varieties grown in warm climates do not have time to ripen in most regions of Russia. Or they ripen several weeks later than the released varieties.
• Varietal features. There are varieties of pepper that do not turn yellow or red even at the stage of biological maturity. As they ripen, they acquire a green color - light or dark, purple, chocolate. To avoid being misled, read the information about varietal characteristics indicated on the packaging in advance. “Non-reddening” varieties include, for example, Viking, Zephyr, and Green Miracle peppers. If you need red peppers, familiarize yourself with the characteristics of the variety in advance.
• Terms of ripening. There are varieties that ripen several weeks later than others. Find out in advance which category the pepper belongs to - early ripening, mid ripening or late. The range of ripening times is very large - some varieties ripen in 90 days, others in 150 days.

Unfavourable conditions

Pepper “refuses” to turn red if it finds itself in unfavorable conditions - agricultural practices are violated, the weather is bad.

Circumstances under which peppers do not turn red:

• Temperature. Pepper grows and ripens well at +18...+30°C. The fruits do not ripen if the weather is cool - when the thermometer drops to +12...+13°C. A heat-loving crop simply stops growing at such temperatures. If the temperature rises above +35°C, the pepper bushes dry out quickly.
• Lighting. Pepper grows provided that it is illuminated for at least 12 hours during the day. If the daylight hours are too long—more than 14 hours—the ripening of fruits may also be disrupted.
• Watering. Peppers have problems with growth, ripening and fruiting if they are watered with cold, unsettled water. Also, the method of watering affects the development of pepper - water should not be allowed to get on the foliage and stems; it is poured only at the root.
• Thickened plantings. If the pepper bushes are planted too densely and block each other's light, the fruits are not in a hurry to ripen, they do not turn red, as they do not have enough nutrition.

Errors in agricultural technology

Errors in agricultural technology, which are often made by inexperienced gardeners, can also lead to delayed ripening.

Agrotechnical errors due to which peppers do not ripen:

• Incorrect planting of seeds. Sowing in the ground can be carried out only after temperature fluctuations have stopped, the soil has warmed up and stable heat has been established.
• Unsuitable soil. Pepper needs light, fertile soils; heavy clay soils and overly acidic soils are not suitable for it. To prevent the pepper from slowing down in ripening, organic matter and dolomite flour are added to the beds, which deoxidizes the soil.
• Fertilizers were applied incorrectly. Pepper reacts negatively to excess nitrogen fertilizers. Plants, instead of directing their energy to ripening fruits, build up green mass. Nitrogen is added before the beginning of summer; it is contraindicated during flowering and fruiting. A lack of potassium also has a negative effect on the ripening of fruits; if it is deficient, peppers may not ripen at all. A similar situation is usually observed on soils that contain a lot of sand and peat. Calcium deficiency is also dangerous, which can be combated with wood ash.
• Excess of ovaries. Their abundance negatively affects the yield and can cause a delay in the ripening of peppers - they do not have time to either reach a large size or turn red.
  Thinning the ovaries helps to avoid the problem. It is recommended to cut off the first inflorescence located at the branching point of the stems. Only one bud, the most powerful one, should remain in the internode. Otherwise, the bush will not have enough energy to ripen all the fruits.
• Root damage. This situation can occur with the seedling growing method. If the roots are damaged when transplanting seedlings, this can have an extremely negative impact on the entire subsequent growing season of the plant. Peppers with damaged roots take a very long time to recover, the bush will lag behind in development, and the fruits will not have time to ripen. Careful picking and replanting of pepper seedlings helps prevent the problem. It is carried out exclusively by the transshipment method - the seedlings are removed from the planting container and moved to a new place along with a lump of soil. It is advisable not to touch the roots at all during transplantation.