Red-cheeked apricot: description, planting, cultivation and care

Red-cheeked apricot is an old and proven variety, loved by gardeners for its successful combination of taste and beauty of the fruit. The variety became the ancestor of many modern hybrids, capable of growing in harsher conditions than their “ancestor”. Let's learn about the features of planting and growing “red-cheeked” apricots.

apricot variety "Red-cheeked"

the “Red-cheeked” variety is popular due to its high consumer qualities

apricot “Red-cheeked” - southern, heat-loving variety

How did the Red-cheeked apricot appear?

Accurate information about the origin of the variety has not been preserved. It is only known that the first apricots with characteristic red dots merging into a “blush” grew in, apricots with “ruddy” fruits came to Armenia, and from there they spread to the southern regions of Russia.

Crimean breeders managed to consolidate a characteristic feature - red spot spotting. After selection work carried out in the Nikitsky Botanical Garden (Crimea), the Krasnoshcheky variety was officially included in the State Register in 1947.

Features of the Red-cheeked apricot variety

Until today, reliable information has not reached us about how the Red-cheeked variety appeared. It is only known that breeders worked on it in one of the botanical gardens of Crimea. There is an assumption that this variety was obtained on the basis of one of the wild forms of the Central Asian fruit tree with reddish fruits.

The latter was pollinated under artificial conditions. Officially, the new form has existed since the middle of the last century.

The variety under discussion is vigorous with a round, lush and spreading crown. The tree grows tall. At the same time, the crown retains its shape perfectly for many years. It is not prone to excessive thickening. The number of shoots of the crop is average.

Apricot Red-cheeked

Other interesting characteristics of the variety:

Ripe juicy apricot fruits are universal in use. Since the fruits are quite sweet, they are often consumed fresh. But apricots can be used to make juices, compotes, marshmallows, preserves, and jam. Fruits are added to various complex desserts. Ripe fruit puree is excellent for baby food.

Description of the tree and fruits

An experienced gardener can easily distinguish Red-cheeked by the characteristics characteristic of this variety:

• Tree. Powerful, tall, reaching a height of 12 m. The crown is sparse and spreading. The branches are long.
• Fruits . The red-cheeked apricot is easily recognizable by its beautiful orange-red fruits. The shape of the fruit is round, ovoid. There is a deep abdominal suture. The fruits are covered with a velvety skin, thin but dense. Color – golden orange. The surface is covered with red dots, sometimes merging into spots. Weight – 40-65 g. The seeds are large, easily separated from the pulp, their weight is 6.5% of the weight of the fruit. Inside the seeds are tasty kernels.

Red-cheeked fruits are sweet and sour. The light orange pulp has a pleasant apricot aroma. Fruit composition:

• sugar – 9.7%;
• dry matter – 13.7%;
• acids – 1.37%;
• ascorbic acid – 13.7 mg per 100 g.

Apricot calorie content is 41-44 kcal per 100 g. The fruit contains: proteins - 0.9 g, carbohydrates - 10.8 g, fats - 0.1 g.

Reviews from gardeners

Red-cheeked is a vigorous tree with a rounded, spreading crown. The fruits are medium-sized (40–52 g), rounded-flat, ovoid, golden-orange with a blurred red blush. The skin is velvety-pubescent, rather thin, but dense. The pulp is light orange, with a sweet and sour characteristic apricot aroma. The bone is well separated from the pulp. The variety is early-bearing (3–4 years), fruiting July 20–23. Productivity is annual.

Voloshun Ivan

Read also:  Description of the tomato variety Amber Honey, its pros and cons

https://forum.vinograd.info/showthread.php?t=11246

Red-cheeked - weak in winter hardiness for the Moscow region.

Sadovnik62

https://www.forumhouse.ru/threads/1322/page-38#post-12108834

I have several trees. Two are from seed, and one is grafted, the Red-cheeked variety. Those from seeds are unpretentious and their fruits are large, oddly enough. One problem is that on one tree the apricot pits cannot be separated from the pulp. But the second one doesn’t have such a problem - it bounces right back! The grafted one will freeze, then aphids will attack him, or something else will happen. Very tasty and very beautiful, large, sweet! But not enough.

Elol

https://indasad.ru/forum/2-plodoviy-sad/2150-vyrashchivanie-abrikosa?start=10

I’m not a scientist or even a gardener, but just a beginner amateur. I have only one apricot growing. Variety - Red-cheeked. I note that the neighbors nearby don’t have them either. Apricot is 4 years old. For the past 2 years we have been collecting a very decent harvest.

temernik

https://www.forumhouse.ru/threads/1322/page-5

Red-cheeked apricot is a variety that ideally combines enviable yields, excellent fruit quality and unpretentious cultivation. It is successfully cultivated in different climatic conditions - it tolerates drought, wind, and frost well. Red-cheeked will be a worthy choice for growing in our gardens.

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Main characteristics of Red-cheeked apricot

Producing half a centner of fruits per year, the variety does not require special agrotechnical measures. The variety takes root without problems and easily tolerates lack of watering.

Red-cheeked is valued for its excellent agrotechnical characteristics:

• Drought resistance. Possessing a powerful, well-developed root system, the tree extracts water from the depths without needing external moisture.
• Frost resistance. The variety is reliable only in those regions for which it is intended. Red-cheeked can withstand frosts down to minus 15-20 degrees without damage. But the shorter the periods of low temperatures, the better.
• Resistance to diseases and pests. Most of all, Red-cheeked is afraid of fungal diseases; it can be affected by moniliosis, clusterosporiasis and brown spot. If the weather is unfavorable - damp, little sun and cool, then the tree will inevitably become infected with some kind of fungus.
• Self-fertility. The variety does not require additional pollinating varieties. You can plant only one apricot tree on a plot, and it will bear full fruit.

Main agrotechnical characteristics of Red-cheeked apricot:

Characteristics of the variety

Description of the plant

Red-cheeked apricot is a tall tree with a spreading crown and long branches. Its height reaches 4 m. But it is better to form the crown so that the height does not exceed 3 m. This makes caring for the plant and harvesting easier.

The lifespan of this apricot tree is about 50 years.

Description of fruits

Large and “ruddy” fruits have an oval or round shape

The fruits have a round or oval (sometimes heart-shaped) shape and are medium in size. Their weight is 40–60 g. A special feature is the rather deep seam on the abdomen. The ripe fruit is colored bright yellow-orange with a red “blush”. This characteristic feature served as the basis for the name of the variety.

Juicy, tasty pulp is easily separated from the seed

The pulp is light, sweet (with a pleasant sour tint), juicy and tender. It is easily and without damage separated from the bone.

Ripening and harvesting

Red-cheeked apricot begins to ripen in mid-July. This process can take a long time, especially with a bountiful harvest. Therefore, it is advisable to collect fruits periodically, 2–3 times during the summer. This way, the period of enjoying fresh apricots is extended and the problem of storing them is partially solved. Considering that fully ripe fruits quickly crumble and spoil, it is better to pick them when they are greenish. Such fruits can be stored for 10–14 days.

Usage

Red-cheeked apricots are great for making preserves and jams

Red-cheeked fruits delight with their versatility. They have excellent taste and contain many vitamins and minerals. Suitable for both fresh consumption and for preparing compotes, preserves and jams, and storing as dried fruits.

Advantages and disadvantages of the variety

The popularity of Red-cheeked among summer residents and gardeners is well deserved, because the variety has many advantages. However, apricot is not without some disadvantages.

Obviously, there are significantly fewer disadvantages. In addition, the specific “needs” of this variety can be easily satisfied with proper care.

Pros and cons of the variety

Advantages due to which the Red-cheeked variety remains popular among gardeners:

• Early fruiting - the tree produces its first harvest in the third year after planting.
• Self-fertility - produces large yields in the absence of pollinators.
• Resists well against many diseases and pests. You don't have to spray the tree a lot.
• High yield. A large tree and an abundance of large fruits are the ideal combination for large harvests.
• Resistance to extreme growing conditions. Tolerates low winter temperatures and summer drought.
• Excellent taste and commercial quality of the fruit. This is a good commercial variety.
• The versatility of the fruit is suitable for any purpose.
• Unpretentious and undemanding to soils.
• Decorative. The tree is powerful and beautiful. Especially during the flowering period, when it is decorated with numerous flowers, and during fruiting, when the branches are strewn with red-sided fruits.

Apricot flowering lasts about 10 days. The tree, covered with delicately fragrant flowers, attracts numerous honey plants.

Red-cheeked has few disadvantages:

• A tall tree is difficult to maintain - it makes spraying and harvesting difficult.
• Does not tolerate temperature changes and frosts well. Because of them, flower buds die. When frozen, it takes a very long time and is difficult to recover.

The most dangerous time for the Red-cheeked variety is the alternation of spring thaw with frost.

Advantages and disadvantages

The red-cheeked one pleases with its precociousness, but does not tolerate frosts

The advantages of this variety of apricot include the following aspects:

• resistance to drought and low temperatures;
• self-fertility;
• ability to resist diseases;
• precociousness;
• high productivity;
• undemanding to soil;
• high taste qualities.

The disadvantage of the culture is its sensitivity to sudden temperature changes. The most dangerous period for red-cheeked apricot is spring, when thaw alternates with frost. Such fluctuations negatively affect flower buds, which can even die from unstable temperatures.

Fruiting and productivity

Red-cheeked is a mid-season variety. Fruiting begins in 3-5 years, and depends on specific climatic conditions. In most regions of Russia, fruits ripen in the range of mid-July to early August.

The harvest is annual, there are no breaks in fruiting. Except in cases of freezing of flower buds. Productive fruiting lasts 50-60 years.

Productivity of the Red-cheeked variety:

• From one tree – 60 kg. There are records of 80-90 kg. 50-60 kg is 10-15 buckets of apricots.
• From 1 ha – 65 centners, maximum – 180 centners.

Selecting a seedling and features of planting a tree

The best choice would be to purchase an annual seedling with a healthy and developed root system. It should not have thorns (their presence indicates semi-wild origin). The branches have a characteristic sheen to the bark, the trunks and roots are without wounds or damage, a healed stump is visible at the grafting site. Such seedlings have a high chance of taking root and growing into a full-fledged tree.

Apricot seedlings grown in a nursery are the most reliable

For planting, you need to choose a sunny and draft-free place. If it is a small hill without nearby buildings, it will only be better. Apricot does not tolerate shade or stagnant moisture. The plant does not have any special requirements for soils, but the best ones are well-manured loams and sandy loams with a slightly increased alkaline reaction.

Apricots need a lot of light and warmth, which must be taken into account when choosing a planting location.

It is recommended to plant heat-loving apricot in the spring, so that by the onset of the cold season the plant will become stronger and gain strength for the first winter. Therefore, the planting hole must be prepared in the fall. Its size is 0.7 x 0.7 m. Pour two buckets of organic fertilizer (humus, compost) onto the bottom and leave until spring to compact.

If planting is done in a region with frequent rains, a layer of small branches can be placed at the bottom of the hole before filling it with organic matter. They will act as a drainage layer in the first 2 years of the plant’s life, that is, while the seedling adapts to the new location. Then these branches will rot, but the need for them will disappear. Important: these must be hardwoods (except walnut, as they contain a lot of iodine) without the slightest signs of disease.

The roots in the hole need to be straightened and make sure that they do not bend

The Red-cheeked apricot does not need pollinators - this variety bears fruit perfectly in complete solitude.

Planting process:

1. Pour 0.3 kg of superphosphate and 0.1 kg of potassium sulfate into the prepared pit, add 1 kg of lime or dolomite flour to reduce acidity, mix with organic matter.
2. Drive a stake to support the seedling.
3. Install the plant and fill the hole halfway with soil (make sure that the grafting site is 5–10 cm above the soil level).
4. Pour out a bucket of water.
5. Fill up the soil to the desired level.
6. Pour out the second bucket of water.

Video: planting a seedling in the ground

Popular types of apricot varieties Red-cheeked

After the official registration of Red-cheeked, work began to improve its characteristics by creating hybrids. The work of breeders brought excellent results; based on the popular variety, many varieties were created with new characteristics and capabilities.

Distinctive features of popular species of Red-cheeked:

Optimal growing conditions

Red-cheeked grows well in the south, in the South-Western regions, in the northern Caucasus, in the Volga region, and Ukraine. In addition, with proper care, it can grow normally in the middle zone, in the Moscow region and the Republic of Belarus.

In terms of soil type, Red-cheeked is not distinguished by a capricious disposition. Soils with neutral acidity are perfect for it . It is better to choose a place with deep (more than 2 m) groundwater, well lit by the sun, isolated from drafts. Lowlands are not suitable for growing (they are too damp), but there is a solution: you can make a mound.

Video: Instructions for planting apricots

In addition, you should pay attention to the neighborhood factor. Red-cheeked does not tolerate nearby currant, raspberry, hazel bushes, or fruit trees (relatives in the Rosaceae family) located nearby.

Landing rules

The entire future fate of the tree depends on how accurate the gardener’s actions are during planting. We will learn how to prepare for planting a seedling and how to do it correctly.

Optimal timing

The exact planting dates depend on the climatic conditions of the region. Two landing options are practiced:

1. Autumn. More suitable for southern regions. Milder and later winters allow seedlings to take root safely and survive a difficult period without loss. About one and a half months should pass between planting and the onset of stable frosts.
2. Spring. This option is suitable for regions with cold winters. Planting begins as soon as the snow melts, before the sap begins to flow.

In the middle zone, as in the southern regions, apricot seedlings can be planted both in spring and autumn. If weather forecasters predict an early winter, it is better to postpone planting until spring.

Choosing the best place

Requirements for a site for planting apricots:

• Relief. Plain or hilly terrain is suitable. Lowlands with stagnant moisture are not suitable. It is advisable that the site be protected from strong winds. A barrier can be a wall, a high fence, or a planting.
• Illumination. Apricot is light-loving, so choose a sunny area for planting.
• Ground water level. The occurrence of groundwater should be no closer than 2.5 m from the surface.
• The soil. Light loamy, loamy and low-carbonate soils with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction are suitable. The pH level is from 7 to 8. Soils with a high lime content are not suitable, but in overly acidic soils, on the contrary, it should be added.

The main thing that apricots don’t like:

• Shadow. Light deficiency negatively affects the growth and development of a tree and reduces its yield.
• Moisture. High humidity has a detrimental effect on the root system - it damps out, and then the tree itself dies.

Cultural neighborhood

Apricot doesn't like neighbors. It is adversely affected by the proximity of any stone fruit crops. Apricots are not planted near apple trees, plums, pears, cherries, cherries, nuts, rowan berries - they all have a suppressive effect on the crop. Experienced gardeners recommend that when planting apricot seedlings, keep a distance of 10 m from the nearest plantings.

In addition to fruit trees, apricots are also badly affected by berry bushes - raspberries and currants. Pests that parasitize these crops, moving to the apricot tree, weaken it and reduce productivity. The best option is to plant flowers or low vegetables near the apricot. But only those that have an underdeveloped root system - so that it does not damage the roots of the tree.

Selection and preparation of planting material

When buying a seedling, it is impossible to predict how strong and healthy it is, so when choosing you have to focus on external signs:

• Bark. There should be no damage, cracks, spots or other marks on the trunk and branches that indicate disease or weakness of the seedling.
• Roots . The root system is moderate in size, but strong. Seedlings with weak and thin roots are not suitable - they will take a long time and have difficulty taking root.
• Height . The optimal option is 70-80 cm.
• Age . It is advisable to purchase an annual seedling.
• Type of seedling. It is recommended to buy a grafted seedling rather than a seedling. Grafted seedlings are carriers of parental properties, and seedlings are often unpredictable - they can surpass their parents in fruit quality and yield, or they can grow wild. Seedlings of cultivated varieties do not have thorns, but there are stumps at the root - the place where the rootstock is cut above the established bud.

Experienced gardeners practice growing apricots from seeds. Such trees are not only not inferior to ordinary seedlings, but also superior in yield.

The root system of a purchased seedling should not dry out during transportation. To restore the seedling's ability to grow, its roots are placed in water a day or two before planting. You can add potassium permanganate (at the tip of a knife) or a bio-fungicide to it. The roots are trimmed with a sharp, disinfected knife, removing damaged and dead tissue. Immediately before planting, the roots are dipped into a mash of clay and mullein.

Pit preparation

The holes for planting, regardless of the time of planting (autumn/spring), are prepared in advance. This is necessary for soil shrinkage. If the seedling is planted in the fall, then the pit is prepared two weeks before planting, and if in the spring, then the soil and pits are prepared in the fall, in October or November.

Red-cheeked has a powerful root system, so a hole is dug at least 80 cm deep. The diameter is 50-60 cm. Drainage is made at the bottom of the hole to prevent moisture stagnation near the roots. Expanded clay is most suitable for drainage, but you can also add pebbles, crushed stone, brick chips, and clay shards.

The procedure for preparing the pit:

• The fertile layer - 15-20 cm - is set aside.
• Mix fertile soil with humus/compost (1.5-2 buckets).
• Fertilizers are added to the soil mixture - nitrogen (30-40 g), phosphorus (60-70 g), potassium (25-30 g). You can use complex fertilizer, for example, Azofoska or Nitrophoska (120-150 g). Adherents of natural fertilizers can add 3 liters of wood ash.
• The mixture is poured into the hole, filling it 2/3, then covered with waterproof material.

Step-by-step guide to planting

Step-by-step instructions for planting an apricot seedling:

• Open the planting hole by removing the waterproof covering. A support for the seedling is installed a little away from the center of the mound of soil mixture. The peg should be approximately 20-30 cm higher than the tree.
• 30-40 liters of water are poured into the pit.
• The seedling prepared for planting is immersed on a mound so that the roots are evenly distributed on it. There should be no protruding roots.
• The roots are covered with the prepared substrate, carefully compacted so that there are no air gaps. For the same purpose, the tree is periodically shaken. When the hole is filled, the root collar should be no less than 4-5 cm from the soil surface. If apricot is planted in a sandy substrate, the distance is reduced to 3-4 cm.
• Having compacted the soil, at a distance of 50 cm from the trunk, around the circumference, they make a small earthen bank so that water does not spill out.
• Water the seedling with 2-3 buckets of water.
• Half an hour later, when the water is absorbed, the tree trunk circle is sprinkled with mulch. Peat chips, fallen leaves, freshly cut grass or humus are suitable for this purpose.
• The tree is carefully tied to a support.
• The side branches are cut off completely, the main conductor - by 1/3.

Planting apricots, step-by-step instructions

The rules for planting red-cheeked apricots do not differ from the rules for planting other apricots:

1. Choosing a landing site. Since apricot is a heat-loving plant, it is advisable to plant it in a sunny place without drafts. It would be good if it was protected by a fence or building on the north side. The groundwater level should not be less than 2.5 m. The best soils are chernozem, loamy, sandy loam. Will not grow on acidic and peaty soils.
2. Selecting planting dates. Apricots are planted in early spring, before buds open.
3. Selection of seedlings. Annual seedlings with well-developed roots take root best.
4. Preparing the hole for planting. Its dimensions are 0.8 m in diameter and the same in depth. When digging, the top, fertile layer is folded separately, then it is poured into the bottom of the hole and nutrients are added - 2-3 buckets of compost (or humus), 1-2 liters of wood ash, 200-300 g of superphosphate. Everything is mixed. It is better if the pit is prepared in the fall.
5. Before planting, the roots of the seedling need to be dipped into a mash of mullein and clay.
6. Plant on a mound of nutrient mixture, carefully straightening the roots and sprinkle with earth, compacting evenly. The root collar is deepened by 5–6 cm (if on sandy soils, then by 10–12 cm).
7. Form an earthen ridge around the tree trunk and water well.
8. Trim the seedling at a distance of 30 cm from the ground - 3-4 buds should remain, from which skeletal branches will be formed.

Caring for seedlings and mature trees

Caring for the Red-cheeked apricot changes as the tree grows. In the first years of life, forces are aimed at maintaining the plant; it must strengthen well, form a crown, and prepare for fruiting. An adult tree also requires support - fertilizing, pruning and other activities on which the health and productivity of the crop depend.

Basic care in the first year of planting

Features of caring for apricot seedlings:

• Feeding is not needed in the first two years - the fertilizers placed in the planting hole will last for a long time.
• Water the young tree 6 times per season - 3 buckets of water. As it grows, the frequency of watering decreases, and the volume of water increases.
• The soil in the tree trunk circle is regularly mulched. This is necessary to strengthen the root system of the seedling.
• No pruning is done in the first year. The crown of Red-cheeked seedlings forms independently.
• Regularly inspect the trunk for cracks. If found, cover them with garden varnish.
• If necessary, treat the tree with Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate.

If you water apricot seedlings excessively, they will grow extra shoots, taking away the strength of the young tree.

Follow-up care

Procedure for caring for an adult apricot:

1. Watering. For irrigation, circular furrows are formed. The last ring is the same in diameter as the crown. Water the tree 2-3 times per season. The first time - during flowering, then at the end of May, and the last time in July - before the fruits ripen. In autumn, it is recommended to carry out water-recharging irrigation at the rate of 70-80 liters of water per tree. It is impossible to over-water the Red-cheeked plant - root rot may develop. If, after a long drought, you water the tree abundantly, the fruits will crack. It is forbidden to water apricots using irrigation from a hose - a fungal infection is transmitted with drops of water.
2. Loosening and mulching. After watering, the soil is loosened to a depth of no more than 10 cm. Then the tree trunk circle is mulched to retain moisture.
3. Feeding. Apricot requires less fertilizer. They begin to feed the tree in the third year. Several feedings are carried out per season:
   In the spring, once every 2-3 years, humus or compost is scattered under the tree - 5-7 kg per 1 square meter. m. Then the norm increases - a 10-year-old tree is given 12-15 kg of humus per 1 sq. m. m.
4. After adding organic matter, after 1-2 weeks, the tree is fed with mineral nitrogen-containing fertilizers - 10-15 g per 1 square meter. m.
5. Before harvesting the fruits, the tree is fed twice more - after flowering, fresh cow manure and bird droppings are added with the addition of superphosphate and potassium sulfate (20-30 g per 1 sq. m).
6. A month before harvesting, apply complex fertilizer according to the dosage specified in the instructions.
7. The last feeding is after harvesting. Phosphorus and potassium are added. Their natural source is wood ash. You can also apply fertilizers without nitrogen.
8. Apricot pruning. The optimal crown option is sparsely tiered. Form 3-4 tiers of 5-6 branches. There should be 30-40 cm between the skeletal branches. The tiers are formed over several years. Skeletal branches should not be located at too sharp an angle in relation to the trunk. All branches pointing downwards are cut off. To regulate the harvest, cut off all unnecessary branches located deep in the crown. The tree also needs regular sanitary pruning. All pruned branches infected with diseases and pests are immediately destroyed.
9. Preparing for winter. The trunk circle is mulched, the trunk is covered with spruce branches or wrapped in burlap.

Nitrogen fertilizers allow the tree to grow green mass, then it does not need nitrogen, and is even harmful. But apricot really needs phosphorus and potassium.

Proper landing

To ensure good development and abundant fruiting, the seedling must be planted correctly. Step-by-step instructions for this process will allow even a novice gardener to plant without errors.

Selecting a location

It is best to choose the most elevated, illuminated place in the garden, protected from the wind. A plant that receives a lot of heat in the summer bears fruit well and easily tolerates winter. Apricot will not experience a lack of moisture due to its drought resistance.

Excessive moisture can harm apricots. This is especially true for Siberia during the spring flood. A tree planted in a lowland is practically doomed to death due to damping off of the roots.

The diameter of the apricot root system is approximately 2 times larger than the crown. Therefore, the distance between neighboring trees should be about 5 m.

Timing

Seedlings are planted more often at the end of April, before the buds awaken. It is better to prepare the soil in the fall or at least 3–5 days before planting.

Preparing the planting hole

The optimal dimensions of the pit are 70 x 70 x 70 cm.

A mandatory requirement for the soil is that it should not be dense . Preparation is carried out as follows:

1. It is necessary to place drainage (crushed stone or gravel) at the bottom of the hole.
2. Pour a mixture of the top layer of soil with humus, wood ash (lime if the soil is acidic) and ammonium nitrate.
3. Sprinkle this layer with soil to avoid direct contact of the roots with fertilizers.

Note! Do not allow salt to get into the soil, which reduces the fertility of the tree.

Location of the seedling in the hole

The root collar of the plant should be slightly below ground level. Excessive deepening negatively affects the development of the tree.

Backfilling the hole

At the bottom of the hole, first pour the top layer of earth, and then the bottom one.

First, it is advisable to use a more fertile top layer, which will be in direct contact with the roots. Then you can sprinkle the bottom layer. It is important not to bend or crush small roots. When spread out, they will better nourish the plant, promoting its rapid development.

Soil compaction

Compaction should be done from the edges of the pit to the center. As a result, a mound is formed near the trunk, and a hole is formed around the circumference of the hole. Around it you need to form a side necessary to retain water.

Watering

After planting, abundant (20–30 liters) watering is required, which must be carried out in the hole (not under the trunk!) in several stages. The water should be completely absorbed without exposing the roots. Due to this, the voids formed during planting are compacted and the plant takes root faster.

Mulching

Peat, manure, leaves, and spruce branches are used as mulch. It prevents the rapid growth of weeds, keeps the soil loose, and promotes natural evaporation of moisture. The roots descend into the deeper layers of the earth in search of water. Due to this, the root system of the seedling develops and strengthens. Another important function of mulch is to protect young, unburied roots from overheating and freezing.

This is interesting! Sometimes apricots are planted horizontally. In this case, the young seedling is bent to the ground and secured to the branches at an angle of 40 degrees. In this position, it receives the maximum amount of heat from the ground.

Diseases: treatment and prevention

Apricots suffer most from fungal diseases. It's easier to prevent them than to treat them.

The main diseases of the red-cheeked apricot:

Features of cultivation

Growing conditions

In order for a seedling of this variety to quickly take root and begin to develop quickly, you need to choose the right place for its cultivation:

• Soils should be of different types, but the best for the rapid development of this variety are chernozems, turf and sandy loam soils. It is possible to obtain good yields even on clay soils with the condition of regular watering, loosening and fertilizing.
• There should not be a large number of May beetle larvae in the soil at a depth of 1-1.3 m. This pest can severely gnaw the root system of seedlings, which leads to growth retardation or even complete death of the seedling.
• The variety loves loose soils with an optimal level of moisture. Therefore, areas with groundwater located close to the surface are not suitable for growing apricots. It is best that groundwater does not rise above 3-4 m to the surface of the site.
• Lighting of an apricot seedling is very important for its normal development. In this regard, it is necessary to place seedlings no closer than 5-5.6 m from high-rise buildings or other objects that provide significant shade.
• Weeds negatively affect the development of the root system of the seedling, so their number on the site should be minimal. If there are more than 4 pieces of thistle or milkweed per 1 sq. m. you need to spray the area with Roundup or Hurricane herbicide. The use of these herbicides should be carried out in the fall 2 weeks before planting the seedlings.

Selection of seedlings

When purchasing a seedling, you need to choose specimens with the following characteristics:

• An annual seedling with a height of 80 cm to 1.4 m.
• Side shoots should be placed evenly along the top of the seedling and extend from the central trunk at an angle of 45-47 degrees.
• The skin of the aerial part should be the same color without damage or signs of disease.
• The root system should have good branching and a length of at least 30-34 cm.
• The kidneys must be viable, without damage.

Preparing a seedling for planting

A few days before planting, the seedling needs to be prepared for planting as follows:

• The lateral branches and top are shortened by 1-2.4 cm.
• It is also advisable to trim the tips of the roots by 1-1.4 cm to stimulate their growth.
• For 12-14 hours, you need to place the root system of the seedlings in water with the addition of the drug Vympel (13-15 ml per 6-8 liters of water) to accumulate moisture inside the seedling, which will have a positive effect on its survival rate.

Planting a seedling

Apricot seedlings can be planted in early spring and mid-autumn. Spring planting of seedlings must be accompanied by timely watering and proper care so that the seedlings do not die in the hot summer. Young trees should be planted before the buds begin to open. Autumn planting of seedlings is carried out in mid-September. Later plantings are undesirable, as the tree will not have time to take root and may die in winter. Planting seedlings is done as follows:

• A few weeks before planting the seedling, they dig a hole 70-76 cm deep and 56-60 cm wide. The placement of this variety should correspond to a 5 x 5 m pattern.
• 1 bucket of fertile soil (chernozem, turf soil) and 8-9.3 kg are poured into the hole. humus. To this coma add 490-500 g of superphosphate and 360-400 g of potassium sulfate.
• To increase the volume of moisture in the soil, at least 13 liters are poured into each hole. water.
• After waiting for the irrigation water to be absorbed into the walls of the pit, the seedling is placed in the center and its roots are covered with fertile and loose soil. For a properly planted seedling, the root collar should be 2-3.4 cm above ground level.
• A furrow is made around the trunk of the seedling and 8-11 liters are poured into it. water.
• To reduce moisture evaporation around the seedling, the soil surface should be mulched.

Mulching

During the first two years, seedlings need regular mulching of the tree trunk circle with peat, sawdust and rotted manure. This work will allow you to retain a larger volume of moisture in the root layer and will have a positive effect on the development of the young tree as a whole.

Weed control

In the first three years, you need to pay close attention to the control of weeds that grow at a distance of less than 2 m from the seedling. This is explained by the fact that the seedling during this period of time does not yet have powerful, well-developed roots and weeds, with their significant development, are capable of stopping the growth of a young apricot. Perennial weeds such as wheatgrass, sow thistle and wormwood are especially harmful; they have powerful roots and can sprout new shoots in a few days. Therefore, weeding should be carried out regularly as soon as weed seedlings appear on the soil surface. Continuous action herbicides (Hurricane, Rauntan) work effectively against perennial weeds, but when using them, the working solution should not fall on the seedling, even in small doses.

Crown trimming

Pruning the crown is very important for the development of seedlings and subsequent high yields. Pruning should be carried out at the end of February and include the following work:

• Removing broken and dried parts of branches.
• Crown formation begins in the second year after planting the seedling and is completed at the age of 7-8 years.
• The crown should consist of one central trunk, 4-5 side branches of the 1st tier and 3-4 branches of the 2nd tier. Extra branches need to be removed.
• Remove branches that grow in a vertical direction.
• When a young tree reaches a height of 3.2-3.5 m, the central branch must be removed.

Watering a seedling

Despite the fact that the variety is quite drought-resistant, watering is recommended. During the first year of cultivation, the seedling needs to be watered twice a month at a rate of 26-30 liters. per one tree. From the second year of cultivation, watering is carried out in the following sequence:

• Before the formation of inflorescences begins, water the apricot with a volume of 40-56 liters. per one tree. This watering helps to increase the number of ovaries and leaves.
• To improve fruit filling and shorten the ripening period after flowering, a second watering is carried out at a rate of 57-60 liters. per one tree.
• In the second half of August, the third watering is carried out with a norm of 50-64 liters. per one tree.
• Late winter watering is not recommended. They slow down the process of shoot ripening and reduce the level of overwintering of the tree as a whole.

Top dressing

The variety produces high yields only if the required amount of nutrients is present in the soil. Therefore, it is necessary to fertilize annually in the following sequence:

• Before the buds open, apricot trees need to be fed with a urea solution (18-19 g per 8-9.4 liters of water), normally 24-29 liters. per one tree. The prepared solution is watered onto the soil at a distance of 0.7-0.8 m from the tree trunk.
• Before flowering begins, it is recommended to add Energen Aqua complex organic fertilizer to the soil (25-27 ml per 8-9.6 liters of water). Apricots consume from 27 to 30 liters per tree. the above solution.
• When flowering ends and the set fruits begin to increase in size, you need to fertilize with a solution of fermented chicken manure. To do this, dilute 1 liter. fermented litter of 12-14 liters. water. 36-42 liters are spent on one tree. the above solution.

Disease Control

The variety is practically not affected by diseases, except for moniliosis. The fungal causative agent of this disease penetrates apricot plants through mechanical damage in the bark. The infection is carried by wind and insects. The disease affects flowers, leaves, annual branches and shoots. With the further development of the disease on perennial shoots, the bark dies off - necrosis. In addition, the ovary dies and the leaves dry out. Gum discharge may appear on perennial shoots. Control measures:

• Before flowering, spray the apricot branches with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.
• After flowering ends, the above treatment is repeated.
• Control of pests that carry this disease.
• Fertilizing with organic fertilizers (chicken droppings, manure) or urea.
• Spraying diseased plants during the rose bud period with a solution of copper oxychloride (3%).
• Spraying apricot branches with fungicides Skor 250 (1.6-2 ml per 9-10.4 liters of water) or Horus (2.1 ml per 9-11 liters of water).

Pest Control

During the season, the variety can be damaged by pests such as the hawthorn butterfly, weevil and yellow plum sawfly.

Hawthorn butterfly. Harmful during caterpillar development. They feed on leaves and buds of trees. The presence of caterpillars can be detected by small holes in the leaves. Control measures:

• Manual collection of caterpillars and their subsequent destruction.
• Collect and destroy winter nests with ovipositors that are located on dry leaves. Such castings are attached to the branches using a web, where they remain all winter.
• Spraying castings with insecticides: Chlorophos, Metaphos and Phosfamide.

Weevil. The pest overwinters in fallen leaves and cracks in the bark. Adults are blue or bright green. They crawl onto apricots of this variety from neighboring fruit trees. They feed on fruits, flowers and buds. If the weevil spreads significantly, apricot plants may shed their leaves in advance. They are most harmful in the month of June. Control measures:

• Collection and destruction of mummified fruits.
• Digging the soil around a tree trunk.
• Spraying with insecticides Decis, Kinmiks and Inta-vir.

Yellow plum sawfly. The caterpillar, which has a yellow-brown color, is harmful. The caterpillar feeds on the pulp of the ovary. Control measures:

• Application of insecticides BI-58 N. Karbofos, Metaphos.
• Controlling weeds and loosening the soil around the tree.

Harvesting

Harvesting needs to be done on time and with high quality. It is recommended to collect fruits in this way:

• Ripe fruits should be collected regularly with breaks of no more than two days.
• Depending on the purpose of further use of the fruits, they can be picked at different stages of maturity.
• Overripe specimens are best suited for further drying.
• For food use, it is recommended to pick ripe fruits.
• For better transportation and long-term storage, you need to collect fruits that are slightly under-ripe.
• Fruits at all stages of ripeness should only be collected whole and without signs of disease or damage.
• You need to pick fruits from tree branches in clear sunny weather so that the harvest is dry.

When and how to harvest?

The fruits ripen in stages. In addition, when harvesting, the purposes for which the crop is harvested are taken into account:

• Drying - overripe, softened apricots are more suitable for drying.
• For eating – moderately ripe, not requiring ripening.
• For transportation over long distances - slightly ripened fruits, light yellow in color.
• For preservation, fruits of any stage of ripeness are suitable.

The gardener provided an overview of the apricot variety “Red-cheeked” in his video below:

Harvesting and storage

Harvesting is best done in dry, clear weather, in three to five stages. Apricots are picked, breaking off from the stalks, and carefully placed in containers. Harvest in the morning or after sunset. Apricots picked in cold or hot weather lose their taste and aroma, and those picked wet (after rain) are poorly stored.

For storage, you need to pick slightly unripe fruits - they will ripen at home and tolerate transportation well. Fully ripe apricots should be eaten or processed immediately, because they can be used to prepare many different delicacies.

Although apricots cannot be stored for long, slightly unripe fruits, collected in dry weather and placed in a wooden or plastic box, can be stored in the cellar for up to 3-4 weeks

Red-cheeked is an excellent, time-tested variety of apricot. It is distinguished by its high yield and excellent taste, and in addition, it will decorate any garden with its color, while being absolutely unpretentious in care.

Pests: destruction and prevention

Red-cheeked apricot is attacked by various insects - aphids, beetles, weevils, leaf rollers, moths and others. To prevent damage to the crop, it is important to carry out preventive spraying in a timely manner.

The most dangerous pests of apricot Red-cheeked:

Diseases and pests

Red-cheeked is not the most disease-resistant variety, so it is especially important to monitor its condition and follow protective and preventative measures.

Control of harmful insects and apricot diseases - table

Diseases and pests of apricot in the photo

Hole spot is named for the characteristic marks on leaves affected by this disease.

Hawthorn attacks leaves and buds, reducing yield and causing damage to the plant during the growing season

In large numbers, aphids oppress the tree and slow down its development

Moniliosis is spread by wind and rain and causes significant damage to the crop.

In addition to plums, the plum moth doesn’t mind trying apricot fruits

Gum discharge spreads very quickly, and it must be treated immediately upon detection.

Harvesting

The harvest period begins in the second half of July. Thanks to the extended fruiting period, it is possible to collect up to 90 kg of fruit from one tree. The Red-cheeked harvest tolerates transportation well and retains its best qualities for 10 days.

If you pick apricot fruits unripe, they will last longer, but will not reach the sweetness and ripeness

Apricots have one peculiarity - if the fruits are collected unripe, they will better withstand transportation, but at the same time they will not improve their sweetness and aroma when ripened. Therefore, it is worth deciding how quickly you will consume the crop for food or whether to process it. By the way, excellent preserves, jams, compotes, and dried fruits are made from the fruits of the Red-cheeked fruit. Dried apricots are the longest way to preserve apricots.

10 days is the shelf life at a temperature of about 0 degrees and a relative humidity of 90%. You can freeze the fruits, but in this case it is better to put them in syrup or grind them with sugar. It is safer to store dried apricots in the refrigerator, since at room temperature after a month it hardens, acquires a dark tint, and loses its beneficial and nutritional properties. In a bag it can remain unchanged for a month, but in the refrigerator this period increases to six months.

Red-cheeked fruits are good fresh, as well as in various preparations

Perhaps the most profitable option is canning apricot fruits - they acquire the best taste and at the same time almost do not lose nutrients.

Reviews of Red-cheeked Apricot

★★★★★
Anton P., Tver region. Excellent apricot.
You don’t have to do anything special – it grows and bears fruit. In the fifth year, I collected a bucket of apricots from it. It doesn’t suffer much from pests – you don’t have to spray it with any chemicals. The fruits are very sweet, but do not last long. Jams and marmalade are being dried. They are always in demand on the market, as they are not only tasty, but also very attractive in appearance - the fruits are large, beautiful, with red spots. ★★★★★
Elena P., Krasnodar region .
Our Red-cheeked one is already more than 20 years old. Starting from the 3rd year of life, he feeds us sweet apricots. True, the yield is unstable - there are years when there is very little fruit. Tree care is minimal. Disadvantage: the branches are fragile and can break due to wind or the weight of the fruit. Hide

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It’s not for nothing that the Red-cheeked apricot has topped the popularity ratings for many years. This variety is a real “apricot classic”. It combines the qualities that are most valued in fruit trees - magnificent fruits, high productivity and ease of care.

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Reviews from summer residents

• The Red-cheeked variety develops quickly and produces the first ripe fruits already in the third year. In one season it is possible to collect from 30 to 60 kg. fruits Of the many diseases, only moneliosis is affected. The fruits are tasty and can be transported over long distances. The grown crop is perfect for drying or making jam.
• This variety has been growing in my dacha for more than 7 years. I would like to note that despite different weather conditions, I annually collect 40-50 kg. fruits They are very beautiful and tasty. The variety needs to be fed with chicken droppings or liquid manure. Every spring you need to prune the crown before the buds open. The variety is reliable and productive.
• Excellent variety. The fruits are large, beautiful and tasty. I collect 35-50 kg from one tree. ripe fruits. The branches are powerful with thick bark. The only drawback of the variety is its susceptibility to moniliosis. But a few fungicide treatments and the problem can be easily solved. The collected fruits can be stored fresh for a long time. Good variety.
• A productive variety with a beautiful crown and tasty fruits. One tree can produce up to 60 kg. fruits The variety needs twice the watering and fertilizing per season. Resistant to diseases. Ripe fruits are very beautiful with excellent keeping quality. Winter hardiness is high. In spring it begins to grow quickly.

History of selection of the Red-cheeked variety

Although exact information has not been preserved, it is believed that this variety was first cultivated in the Central Asian region, after which the territory of modern Armenia became the distribution area of ​​the Red-cheeked ancestor.
At the end of the forties of the twentieth century, breeding work with this variety began to be carried out in the Nikitsky Botanical Garden. Of the varieties of European origin, it is considered one of the most competitive, due to its commercial and taste qualities and low maintenance requirements. It can be grown in almost all regions where this fruit can be cultivated at all. In addition, an important factor is the long life of the tree. Entered into the State Register in 1947.

It became the basis for breeding work to develop the following varieties:

• Son of the red-cheeked one;
• Amur;
• Seraphim;
• Khabarovsk;
• Northern Triumph.

Did you know? There is an apricot variety called Red-cheeked Nedelina, which should not be generalized with the traditional variety. It comes from the Far East, the weight of its fruit does not exceed 30 g.

Planting and caring for Red-cheeked apricot in the Moscow region in spring

In the Moscow region, apricots are planted on the south side of a building or fence. This way the tree will receive more heat.

For planting, seedlings are selected on cherry plum or plum rootstock. Such plants have a stable root system. According to reviews of the Red-cheeked apricot in the Moscow region, the tree needs protection from freezing.

In spring, trees are watered with preparations containing nitrogen. When the fruits ripen, potassium must be added, which affects the taste.

Reviews

Grigory. I live in Kazan, in my region apricots grow very reluctantly, but Red-cheeked likes everything, he doesn’t care about our difficult climate. The variety is really prolific, sometimes we don’t know what to do with the harvests, we use it in compotes, jams, make dried fruits and marshmallows, and share it with our neighbors. The tree does not need special care; I water it only in hot weather and drought. In the spring, before flowering, I apply nitrogen fertilizers, and in the fall, I scatter organic matter in the tree trunks.

Tamara. For a long time I was looking for that delicious apricot that reminds me of my childhood, and I was so happy when I found it. I planted Red-cheeked 7 years ago, it is already actively bearing fruit. I haven’t gotten to the point of fighting diseases or pests yet, but my tree is growing in ideal conditions, away from the main garden. I recommend this old, very good apricot to everyone.

Growing rules, care

The tree can be grown from a seed; it will retain all varietal characteristics and will have excellent immunity to local, perhaps not the most favorable, climatic conditions. The seeds are planted in the summer and constantly moisten the bed, until the onset of the first frost. The care required is the same as for other varieties of crops.

What you need to know:

• The variety is unpretentious to the type of soil, but it is better not to plant it in lowlands where melt and rain water accumulates;
• Apricot Red-cheeked does not tolerate even light shade and does not like cold winds;
• Until the age of three, the seedling needs to be covered; as soon as it begins to bear fruit, frost resistance will increase sharply;
• The tree forms its crown on its own, it is recommended to remove only dry and excess branches, and shorten young shoots by half;
• The organic matter added during planting is enough for the tree to last for 2 or 3 years; further fertilizing is done in spring and autumn, mineral complexes are used;
• Watering is carried out regularly, the soil in tree trunk circles is loosened and mulched with peat or humus;

• Treatment begins when the first signs of disease are detected; chemicals can be used only before flowering and after harvesting. Means harmful to the human body are replaced with biological products and folk remedies;
• All severely damaged branches are not restored; to prevent the spread of the disease, they are immediately removed;
• Aphids will not enter the garden where nasturtium grows; it is advisable to combat the pest only in case of massive infestation.

Red-cheeked apricot is an ideal option for private gardens; it is very productive, does not require planting pollinator varieties, and has an incredibly pleasant taste. Even a beginner can cope with growing the variety.