Botanical description
From its parents, the plant received winter hardiness, endurance, good immunity and productivity, which is similar to the description of the Novella pear. Thanks to these characteristics, trees grow and bear fruit well in the conditions of the Far East and Primorye.
In order for the crop to develop well, it should be planted at higher elevations. This will protect her from natural disasters.
Tree
The November winter pear is a tall plant (up to 3 m) with a wide pyramidal (sometimes round) crown. Skeletal branches grow at right angles to the trunk. The shoots are powerful, colored greenish-burgundy. The branching is strong, so formative pruning is required every spring.
The foliage is rich green, oval in shape, with small jagged edges. Below is a leaf plate with a light whitish coating.
Pollination Tips
Noyabrskaya pear is a self-fertile variety. Its flowers are not endowed with the ability of cross-pollination. Gardeners use the following varieties of pears as suitable pollinators:
- Williams (summer variety);
- Hoverla;
- Clapp's favorite;
- Conference
Pollinators are planted simultaneously with the pollinated variety. It is necessary to plant several trees of different varieties in the neighborhood. The distance between them should be from 10 to 15 meters.
Pros and cons of the variety
All of the listed characteristics of the November Winter variety fully justify the popularity and demand of the plant. This type has a huge number of advantages:
- early fruiting (already 4-5 years after planting a full-fledged harvest is formed);
- consistently good harvest every year;
- the tree is resistant to sunburn;
- excellent taste, thanks to which the variety is classified as a table species;
- the fruits do not fall off even during the rainy season;
- long-term storage of the crop for several months;
- winter hardiness (the root system will not be damaged even in severe frosts);
- fruits can be collected unripe, they will reach the required ripeness in storage;
- immunity to most pear diseases, in particular fungal ones.
The pear has an excellent taste, thanks to which the variety is classified as a table species.
Thanks to this list of advantages, the Noyabrskaya Winter variety is often planted for commercial purposes. Fruits tolerate transportation well, are perfectly stored and do not lose their product and taste characteristics.
But the plant also has disadvantages:
- fruits are formed of different sizes and shapes;
- the appearance of pears is not always attractive (ribbed surface, inclusions on the skin, uneven shape);
- The presence of pollinating plants of other varieties is mandatory.
Despite all the shortcomings, it is November winter that is grown in most gardens. The most important virtue that gardeners respect is unpretentiousness.
What type of pear is it?
Pear "Noyabrskaya" is an autumn early-fruiting variety that has been grown in Russia since the second half of the 20th century.
The variety is quite in demand among gardeners.
The fruits of “Noyabrskaya” can be stored for a very long time, they are juicy, tasty and good in compotes, jams, jams, preserves, confitures and dried.
Autumn varieties also include: Osennyaya Yakovleva, Samara Beauty, Tatyana, Skazochnaya and Larinskaya.
Care
Caring for the Noyabrskaya winter pear variety consists of performing classical agrotechnical procedures: watering, weeding, loosening the tree trunk, fertilizing, protection from diseases and pests. If all the rules are followed, the trees will grow strong, healthy, and with high yields.
Watering and fertilizing
The first year of planting, the pear requires abundant watering: from 2 to 5 times per season. The amount depends on weather conditions and natural precipitation. Consumption per tree is 30-50 liters.
Drying out of the soil is unacceptable. Lack of moisture will reduce the yield and the number of fruits on the tree.
After each watering, be sure to loosen the soil around the tree trunk to ensure oxygen supply to the root system. To retain moisture, the soil is additionally mulched.
At the end of July, watering is reduced to prevent the growth of young shoots.
The amount of watering does not change with age. It all depends on natural precipitation outside. An adult pear must be watered:
- during the flowering period;
- in early June, when the ovary begins to form;
- 2-3 weeks before the expected harvest date.
Water the trees at the roots. But the most effective way is to organize sprinkling. In this way, not only the roots, but also the shoots and foliage will receive the necessary moisture. Sprinkling is carried out in the early morning, evening or when it is cloudy to avoid burns.
It is best to organize sprinkling for pears
Be sure to feed throughout the season.
To stimulate growth, nitrogen-containing compounds are used. The first time is fed in mid-May, the second time in mid-June.
If the shoots grow intensively in the first year, one fertilizing with nitrogen is sufficient for the second season.
The fertilizer application schedule is chosen each season based on the condition of the tree.
Type of fertilizer | Type of feeding | Fertilizer application period | Application frequency | Norm |
Saltpeter | Root | Swelling of buds, flowering | Once a season | Consumption: 30 g per 1 m2 (in wet weather applied to the soil or diluted with water in a ratio of 1:50) |
Urea | Root | Swelling of buds or flowering | Once a year | Consumption: 80-12 g per tree (diluted in 5 liters of water or applied to damp soil) |
Foliar | July-early September | Alternate with phosphorus treatment at intervals of 10-14 days | Consumption: 2 liters of nutrient solution per tree (30-50 g of substance are dissolved in 10 liters of water) | |
Nitroammofoska | Root | May (before flowering) | Once per season | Consumption: 30 l per tree (50 g of the substance is dissolved in 10 l of water) |
Complex mineral fertilizer | Root | End of September (after harvest) | Once a year | Consumption: 10 liters of nutrient solution per 1 m2 (2 tablespoons of substance are dissolved in 10 liters of water) |
Wood ash | Root | October – November during preparation for winter | Once a season | Consumption: 150 g per m2 (buried into the soil to a depth of 10 cm) |
As trees grow, nitrogen-containing fertilizing is reduced, since growing green mass is not as important for mature trees as for young ones.
As trees grow, nitrogen-containing fertilizers are reduced.
Weeding
Weeds take away some of the moisture and nutrients from plants. Therefore, it is important for young seedlings to prevent them from growing.
Weeds often carry larvae of pests and pathogens.
Removing weeds is often combined with loosening the soil after watering or rain. The joint procedure will provide the root system with oxygen.
Trimming methods
When growing fruit crops, annual pruning is a mandatory procedure, without which the yield will gradually decrease and the fruits themselves will become smaller. Throughout the season, several prunings are performed, which have specific tasks. From the first year of cultivation, the formation of the tree crown begins. In the first year after planting, the central trunk is shortened at a height of 50 cm in order to subsequently form the correct crown.
For the November winter pear, two types of crown formation are suitable: in the form of a bowl or a free-growing palmette. For any of the options, the procedure is performed in early spring.
Crown formation according to the bowl type
The advantage of this crown molding option is convenient fruit picking, as well as freer plant care. A disadvantage is the rapid growth of shoots, so pruning will be required every year.
Crown formation according to the bowl type
This option helps give the crown a well-groomed, beautiful appearance. It is formed in several tiers. The result is 8-10 skeletal branches.
Only 2-3 main shoots are left on each tier, the rest are removed. In this way, 3-4 tiers are built.
Landing algorithm
The Noyabrskaya pear (a description of the variety and a photo will help gardeners plant the seedling correctly) is planted in the soil layer in the autumn season, since this is relevant for the middle latitudes of the country and the southern climate. Planting in the northern regions is recommended to be done in the spring season to prevent the death of an unestablished tree in the event of a harsh winter.
The process of transplanting a pear is shown in the following steps:
- When transshipping a tree, it is very important to preserve its earthen lump.
- Place the seedling on the soil mixture poured into the hole. Drive a peg next to it so that the plant can be tied to it.
- Carefully distribute the roots and cover with soil mixture.
- Fill the hole with fertile substrate, carefully trampling the soil layer around the roots. No special nutritional mixtures are required. It is recommended to plant with two people, so that one holds the tree and the other fills the hole with soil. The root collar should be 3 cm higher than the ground level.
- Form a hole around the tree trunk, which looks like a near-trunk circle with a roller. This device is necessary to retain liquid during irrigation and rain.
- Watering should be carried out in several stages to prevent the liquid from spreading. A planted plant needs up to 25 liters of moisture.
- After absorbing moisture, loosen the hole and mulch with compost or peat.
The November pear is not a self-pollinating plant, so it is recommended to plant it near the varieties Lyubimitsa Klappa, Conference, Williams Summer and Koverla.
Harvest and storage
The exact harvest date depends on the weather conditions of the current season, as well as the climate of the region. This period usually falls in September. Fruits are removed from the trees as soon as yellowness appears in the peel. To ripen, they are placed in a dark, cool room.
Pick pears with your hands, preferably wearing fabric gloves. The bottom of the boxes is covered with paper or soft cloth. Whole fruits without signs of damage or disease are stored for storage. The remaining rejected copies are sent for processing.
In order for the harvested crop to be stored for as long as possible, it is placed in a cool room (temperature from 0 to +4 C°) with an air humidity of 85%.
Fruits are stored in the refrigerator in a special compartment, but separately from vegetables.
In the cellar, pears are stored in wooden boxes. Each layer is covered with paper, sand or soft shavings.
Reviews from gardeners
Victor Petrovich, Krasnodar
My father planted the November pear in our garden a long time ago, and it was his favorite variety. For me, the pears of this variety are not very beautiful and very hard, but when they sit for a couple of weeks and when they ripen, they become juicy and fragrant. Pears store very well; the harvested crop is stored in the cellar until the beginning of spring. The taste of pears does not change at all, they just become tastier. This variety is suitable for making jam and compotes; we also use them for drying. In my opinion, every gardener should plant this variety, and even if the fruits are not perfectly beautiful and even, they are tasty and healthy. And besides, the pear bears fruit every year and quite abundantly.
pripythanin-1986, Moscow region
I planted a pear four years ago, last year several fruits sprouted (the first harvest), and this year there were already many more pears, which I am very happy about. I picked the fruits in early November, and since they were hard, I left them to rest. After about two weeks, the pears turned a little yellow and became softer than before. I really like the taste of this variety, and the main thing is to store it well.
Vladislav Kompaniets, Chelyabinsk
I planted a November pear on the plot; I consider this variety the most worthy of all winter varieties. The taste is very pleasant, sweet and juicy pear. We don’t have it for a long time because it gets eaten quickly.
Olegkhm, Perm
As for me, November pear is one of the best; I think that the variety has the perfect combination of sweetness, acidity and mild astringency. For some reason, in this abnormally warm year, this variety showed itself as a late-autumn variety; the fruits began to ripen at the end of October. In this regard, in order for the fruits not to freeze, I had to remove them when unripe and put them in the pantry for storage. They lay there for about a month, and gradually, one after another, they began to change their color and a pleasant aroma appeared. We enjoyed the harvest until February.
Possible diseases
November winter pear is characterized by good immunity to many diseases characteristic of this plant. But sometimes during cultivation they still encounter problems. Most often, diseases are provoked by unfavorable weather conditions and mistakes made by the person himself during care.
Moniliosis (monilial burn)
A fungal disease, the pathogens of which enter fruit crops during the flowering period, as bees and other insects become their carriers. As the lesion progresses, blackening of leaves, flowers, and shoots is observed. Externally, the spots resemble burns.
The affected parts of the plant are removed and burned. The tree is treated with fungicides. After fruit formation, fruits affected by gray rot appear on the trees.
As the lesion progresses, blackening of leaves, shoots, and fruits is observed.
Rust
Most often found on trees near which juniper grows. The peculiarity of the fungus is that it alternately passes from juniper to pear and back. Spores are easily carried by wind up to 50 m.
At first, small blotches of greenish-yellow color appear on the leaves, gradually they increase in size and acquire a rusty color. At the bottom of the spots, tubercles are formed in which spores are located. For treatment purposes, trees are treated with fungicides at intervals of 14 days.
Most often found on trees around which juniper grows.
Sooty fungus
The most common spreader of the disease is aphids, so initially they begin to actively combat the pest. For sooty fungus, a favorable environment for development is a sweet liquid, which is the result of the life activity of the pest.
The disease manifests itself in the form of a black coating on the leaves, which looks like soot. In addition to the leaves, fruits are also affected and can no longer be used as food.
The disease appears as a black coating on the leaves.
Probable pests
In addition to diseases, pests can harm the pear. They lead to a significant reduction and damage to the crop.
Aphid
Small insects that feed on the sap of leaves. They get onto the pear thanks to ants, who love to feast on aphid secretions. Foliage that curls into a tube indicates the appearance of a pest.
Aphids are small insects that feed on the sap of leaves.
If possible, the affected leaves are torn off and the tree is treated with insecticides.
Pear moth
In spring, a small butterfly lays eggs near trees, which will not cause much harm. The danger comes from caterpillars, which, after emerging along the trunk, rise into the crown and feed on the fruits. They make holes in pears, which leads to their spoilage.
Control is most effective at the butterfly stage. Caterpillars are combated with the help of special catching belts and periodic treatment of the soil near the tree trunk with insecticides.
The most effective control of codling moth is at the butterfly stage
Pear flower beetle
A small beetle that overwinters in the tree trunk. Early in the spring it crawls out and begins to destroy flower buds. Next, it is taken on young shoots, ovaries, and leaves. In May, the insect lays larvae (khrushchi) in the ground.
As a means of control, insecticide treatments are carried out. Many people take advantage of the beetle’s ability to freeze during cold periods. Therefore, in the early morning (the temperature should not be higher than +5 C°), the trees are shaken, having first laid a film on the soil under the tree.
In early spring, the flower beetle crawls out and begins to destroy flower buds.
To combat beetles, the drug Diazinon is used. They treat the soil around trees in June. The product lasts about 3 weeks and then decomposes.
Prevention
As practice shows, many problems can be avoided by following simple rules of prevention:
- After the end of leaf fall, the soil around the trees is removed. It is in fallen leaves that pests and pathogens like to overwinter. The collected leaves are best destroyed.
- Carefully inspect the bark. If cracks are detected, these areas are cleaned back to healthy wood. They are treated with fungicides and covered with garden varnish on top.
- Every year in the fall, the trunks and bases of skeletal branches are whitened.
- Before the onset of frost, the tree trunk circle is dug up so that pests overwintering in the soil are at the top and die from sub-zero temperatures.
- In autumn, the soil near the trees and crown shoots are treated with a solution of copper sulfate (3%).
- In the spring, the crowns are sprayed with potent herbicides. Before flowering, re-treatment is carried out to protect the ovary from flying pests.
November winter pear is an ideal fruit crop for growing in regions with difficult climates. If suitable conditions are created, the harvest harvested in September can be stored throughout the winter, providing your family with vitamins from your own garden.
November winter pear
After the apple, the most beloved and widespread fruit in domestic gardens is the pear. Pear trees are unpretentious to climatic conditions, so they can be grown almost throughout Russia. Among the many modern varieties, it is difficult to choose something specific; usually gardeners prefer old, proven pears as their first experience. One of these varieties is the Noyabrskaya Winter pear, which has a number of advantages: winter hardiness, early fruiting and good resistance to external factors.
A detailed description of the November Winter pear variety, photos of fruits and trees, as well as reviews from gardeners about it can be found in this article. Here all the arguments in favor of the November variety will be given, and we will talk about how to plant this pear and how to care for it.