Growing apricots in Siberia: description of the 11 best varieties, planting and care

When planting fruit and berry and ornamental crops, many gardeners make a big mistake by mixing humus with soil and fertilizing the root system of the seedling with it. Sergei Polyakov, director of the Siberian Plant Nursery, categorically advises against doing this. Guided by the method of a professional, we will learn how to properly plant a fruit, ornamental or berry plant in Siberia using the example of apricot.

How to prepare a hole for a seedling 2. How to plant an apricot correctly 3. Watering an apricot 4. How to prune a seedling 5. Choosing a location on a plot 6. When is the best time to plant a tree 7. Rules for caring for an apricot

Photo: how to plant apricots in Siberia.

Apricot in Siberia: features and botanical description

Apricot or from the Latin Prúnus armeniáca is one of the most popular fruit trees found among gardeners in Russia. The distribution of this useful tree is comparable to other garden crops: plum, cherry, sweet cherry, apple tree and others. More recently, the apricot was considered an invariably southern fruit tree, and in more northern regions it was possible to enjoy the juicy taste of apricots only from store shelves. Many Siberian gardeners tried to grow an apricot tree on their plot, but they were invariably overtaken by failure. However, domestic breeders came to the rescue, thanks to whose work winter-hardy apricot varieties were born that can be grown in the northern regions of Russia.

Apricot is a deciduous fruit tree that belongs to the Plum genus and the large Rosaceae family. It is still not known for certain where the apricot tree came from. According to some scientists, a tree with such tasty fruits came to Europe from China, but most scientists are inclined to believe that the apricot was brought to Europe from Armenia. Specific apricots are not suitable for growing in Siberia. Regions with harsh climates require more resistant and unpretentious varieties, so breeders develop hybrid varieties. The first hybrid for Siberia was bred in Khabarovsk in 1968 by domestic breeder Kazmin. Since then, the tree with such fragrant fruits has gradually spread deep into Siberia. Today it is possible to grow apricot on your own plot, but this will require knowledge of the characteristics of the crop and the rules of cultivation in harsh climates.

Description of apricot:

Apricot is considered a deciduous fruit tree, which is sure to be an excellent addition to any garden, even in Siberia.
The root system of this tree is quite powerful and large, due to which the apricot tree itself can obtain moisture from the soil and nutrients. In addition, it tolerates drought and severe frosts better.
An apricot can reach an average height of 5-8 meters, but in Siberian conditions such a fruit tree most often grows slightly smaller.
The bark of a young tree is gray-brown, smooth and shiny. In older apricots, the bark may crack.
In spring, the apricot tree is covered with green foliage, which has an oval-ovate shape. The leaf blade at the apex is elongated, the edge is serrated.
The leaves are attached to the petioles, arranged alternately on the shoots, have a rich green tint, and can reach 8-9 cm in length.

Much earlier than the appearance of foliage, single flowers bloom on apricot branches, the diameter of which can reach 2.5-3 cm. The petals are white with pink veins.
Apricot flowers bloom in mid-March or early April, it all depends on the specific variety.
During abundant flowering, the apricot tree looks very impressive and decorative, and can decorate any garden and personal plot.
After flowering ends, fruits form on the branches - juicy single-druped yellow-orange flowers with a longitudinal furrow. The shape of apricot fruits can be round, oval, elliptical or obovate. The size of the fruits of this tree depends on the specific variety. Today, thanks to the work of breeders, it has become possible to obtain fairly large fruits in Siberia.
Apricot is a long-liver; a tree can grow in one place for an average of 30 years.
The first fruits on a young tree appear in the third year after planting, after which fruiting is observed for 35-40 years.
Apricot is winter-hardy and frost-resistant. The culture can withstand frosts down to minus 25 degrees. Apricot varieties for Siberia have a wide range of positive qualities: resistance to temperature changes, spring frosts, excess moisture and sunburn.

Growing in difficult climatic conditions

As noted earlier, the climatic conditions of the Urals and Siberia are characterized by low temperatures in winter and spring frosts.

Successful cultivation requires the correct determination of the location for planting the seedlings.

Requirements for soil, planting site

A sunny, draft-free area of the garden is suitable for apricots. When choosing it, pay attention to the occurrence of groundwater. The apricot root system can rot if over-watered.

Therefore, the landing site should be elevated. These can be mounds or ramparts. Their height must be at least a meter. Apricot is a crop that is unpretentious to soil fertility. Seedlings are planted in a previously prepared area:

the soil is dug up;
if the soil is clayey, add sand, compost and organic fertilizers.

It is important to know:

soil for apricot must have excellent drainage properties. This will provide the necessary conditions for the normal formation of the root system.

Selection of seedlings

It is advisable to buy planting material from nurseries. Random sellers may offer low-quality seedlings of unknown variety.

It is necessary to pay attention to the quality of planting material. It is best to purchase annual or biennial plants. Varietal apricot seedlings do not have thorns on the stem.

The branches are smooth. Particular attention is paid to the roots of the seedling. They should be powerful without signs of freezing. A plant with dried roots is also unsuitable.

Important to remember:

For the Urals and Siberia, only zoned apricot varieties that have winter-hardy qualities are suitable. Preference should be given to two-year-olds with a closed root system, which are grown in specialized nurseries. Purchase several seedlings of different varieties.

Landing

Apricots are planted in autumn and spring. The planting hole for the seedling has dimensions of 80x80 cm. The distance between the trees must be maintained at least five meters, because Its root system is spreading.

A drainage system is required. Crushed stone, which is placed at the bottom of the seat, can serve as it. The seedlings are nourished by organic and mineral fertilizers. They are poured over the drainage. The following composition of the nutritional mixture is used:

humus - 10 - 15 kg;
ash – 1 glass;
superphosphate – 700 g;
potassium sulphide – 400 g.

A layer of soil is poured on top of the nutrient mixture. Place a peg in the center of the hole. The seedling is placed in the center of the planting site. Fill and compact the soil.

A tree-trunk soil roller is formed. Watered. You will need two or even three buckets of water. After watering, the soil is mulched. The seedling is tied to a peg.

It is important to know:

When planting, the root collar of the seedling should protrude four centimeters above the ground.

A seedling with a weak root system requires shortening the branches after planting. Keep in mind that apricots do not tolerate transplantation.

Care

Proper care is the key to the successful development of a full-fledged plant. In the Urals and Siberia, agricultural technology has its own characteristics. The most critical periods for caring for seedlings are not only the winter period.

Spring thaws and sharp temperature fluctuations will be especially dangerous. During this period, care is taken to ensure that melt water does not stagnate in the tree trunk circle of the seedling. Excessive waterlogging can lead to rotting of the roots. Further care will require regular moderate watering.

The buds of fruit-bearing trees can be damaged by spring frosts. For protection, smoke is carried out. In the evening, wet straw is set on fire in the garden for this purpose. To attract bees, the crown of flowering trees can be sprayed with honey water.

A special feature of apricots is their need for pollinators. Therefore, several trees of different varieties are planted on the site.

An important agricultural technique is the application of fertilizers. In order for apricots to bear fruit every year, good nutrition is required. The amount of feeding required depends on the age of the tree. Trees will need fertilizing in their third year of life.

When the tree reaches five years of age, the amount of fertilizer is doubled. Fertilizing is carried out in the autumn. Organic and mineral fertilizers are used as fertilizer.

During the entire growth period, apricot requires. This is necessary for the correct formation of the tree and maintaining it in a state of active growth.

Sanitary and regulatory standards are applied. Old trees need rejuvenating branch pruning, which involves removing damaged, dried branches.

In addition to the listed agricultural practices, preventive measures against pests are also necessary. The main diseases of apricot are clasterosporia blight and moniliosis.

The causative agents of diseases are fungi. Various parts of the plant are affected. They can lead to the death of not only the crop, but the entire tree. The spread of diseases is similar.

Prevention is the timely removal of fruit residues in the autumn. The infection persists on plant debris. In autumn they are burned. During the same period, trees are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture or other chemicals as a preventative measure.

In the autumn, trees are insulated. The trunk of the seedlings is wrapped with covering material. An earthen mound is formed in the tree trunk circle.

It is important to know:

The use of chemicals for spraying trees is used only before buds open. At a later date, such activities can lead to the death of bees.

Growing apricots in Siberia and the Urals became possible thanks to varieties bred by domestic breeders. They performed well in harsh climatic conditions. However, unhurried cultivation will require not only excellent plant properties, but also reasonable agrotechnical measures.

Below, we invite you to watch a video about what varieties and how to properly grow apricots in Siberia:

Apricot is a tree of the Rosaceae family. It has medium height, longitudinal brown bark. It begins to bloom in March. The fruits ripen from June to August, depending on the variety. Siberian apricot is resistant to severe frosts and is suitable for growing in northern regions.

Apricot Amur is suitable for growing in Siberia

Growing is not an easy task, so before planting apricots, you need to choose the right variety.

The best varieties of apricot for Siberia

Through selective breeding, many varieties of apricot trees have been developed that are adapted to cold climates and produce good harvests.

Sibiryak Baikalova

Brought out in the late 70s of the last century. Withstands temperatures down to -40 C. Grows up to 3.5 m, spreading and wide crown is not very dense.

The fruits appear in the 3rd year after planting in a permanent place. They have aromatic, juicy and sweet orange flesh. It blooms in May, ripens at the end of July, and you can get 20 kg of fruit from one tree. Needs pollination of other varieties.

Seraphim

Medium-sized, semi-spreading crown, blooms from the end of May, gets warm when there is an abundance of snow, suffers from sunburn. An early-ripening variety, characterized by high yield, sweet and sour, fruits with spots and dots, the pulp is difficult to separate from the stone.

Khabarovsk

Brought out in the last century. It grows 4-5 m by the age of ten, the crown is not thickened, the fruits appear after 2-3 years. Blooms in May, early June, ripens at the end of July. Tolerates severe frosts and drought, medium-sized fruits are orange in color, with blush, dense and sweet flesh.

Anniversary

The tree reaches a height of 6 m, has a rounded crown, tolerates frosts down to -34 C. It blooms in March-April, ripens in July. The fruits are large, sweet, appear in the 3-4th year. The tree is drought-resistant and long-living.

Amur

The apricot tree grows no higher than 3 m, the crown is dense and leafy. It blooms in mid-May, fruits appear in early August from the 3-4th year after planting. It gives a good harvest, has high winter hardiness, immunity, and tolerates temperatures down to -38 C. Medium-sized fruits with juicy pulp, easily separated from the stone.

Academician

Introduced more than 20 years ago. The tree reaches 5 m, bears fruit in the 5th-6th year, 17-19 kg of fruit are collected per season. Blooms in early May, ripens in late July. The pulp of the fruit has a sweet and sour taste, juicy. Resistant to cold, tolerates -40 C and rainy weather, has strong immunity.

Snegirek

Does not exceed 1.5 m, the tree bark is thick, tolerates temperatures down to -42 C, but does not withstand drought, and is not resistant to fungal diseases. The variety is self-pollinating. It blooms late, the fruits are harvested in August. They are small, but sweet and juicy, and are elastic. From one tree you get 10-15 kg of apricots. Not resistant to fungal diseases and pests.

East Siberian

The variety was included in the State Register in 2001, up to 2-3 m high, the crown is not thickened. It blooms in May, the fruits ripen in the second decade of July. They are large, yellow-green, sweet. The harvest is 14-17 kg of fruit per tree, the variety is not resistant to damping off, and freezes in too cold winters.

Apricot planting

There are several ways that gardeners use to grow this tree: planting seedlings, seeds or cuttings. When planting apricot seedlings, you need to pay attention to the stage of fruit bud formation.

It is advisable to grow grafted trees, as seedlings may die. It is easier to purchase a seedling, but often gardeners specially grow apricots from seeds.

Apricots grown from seeds do not require much care. They are better suited to the ground and cold weather. Growing conditions:

It is best to take apricot seeds grown specifically in Siberia;
the seeds of overripe fruits are suitable;
the seeds are washed well and dried not in the sun;
before planting, the seeds are kept in water: those that float up must be thrown away, because they are defective;
You should not plant apricots in flower pots, because they must get used to natural conditions;
It is better to start growing cuttings and seedlings in the spring;
To prevent the root from rotting, the seeds are planted to a depth of 1 cm.

If you are planning to plant in the spring, then in the fall the seeds are stored at a temperature of 0 °C in a cellar or refrigerator. The seeds are placed vertically in damp sand, and by April they begin to germinate.

If you do everything correctly, then growing an apricot from a seed is very simple.

received from “Armenia”, which was previously mistakenly considered the birthplace of apricot. From ancient Sogdiana (Central Asia), where apricot was widely cultivated, it was transferred by the Arabs to the Mediterranean countries. The Arabs called it “attaikuk”, the Spaniards remade it into “albaricoque”, the French in their own way renamed it “abricot”, hence the German “Abrikosse” and the Russian “apricot”.

The genus contains 8 species growing in Eastern, Central, Middle and Minor Asia, and the Caucasus. These are small trees 5-12 m tall or large shrubs with a wide crown and deep root system. The leaves are simple, up to 12 cm, oval, pointed, on long petioles. The flowers are regular, large, white-pink, with a pleasant smell. The fruits are yellow or orange, fleshy or dry drupes, mostly velvety.

In 1654, near Moscow, in the royal Izmailovsky garden, 19 “overseas” trees were planted: among them 4 “peach plum” trees and 2 “apricot apple” trees. A few decades later, apricots could be found in the gardens of many boyars; they also grew in monasteries, and by the beginning of the 18th century they were already grown in open ground in regions of southern Russia. Now small apricot orchards and individual trees are found in the Oryol, Tula, Kaluga, Ryazan and Moscow regions.

Selection work to create winter-hardy forms of apricot in central Russia was started by I.V. Michurin at the end of the 19th century. In the twentieth century, it was continued by breeders M. M. Ulyanishchev, A. N. Venyaminov in the Voronezh region and A. K. Skvortsov in the Moscow region. By changing several generations of trees, Professor A.K. Skvortsov managed to obtain selected forms of apricot, which are particularly resistant to the climate of central Russia. Here are their names: Iceberg, Alyosha, Varyag, Aquarius, Delight, Guiani, Countess, Yellow, Zeus, Lel, Monastic, Hurricane, Tsarsky, Edelweiss. The fruits ripening on these trees are not large, weighing 15-20 grams, and not as sweet as those from the south. But jam, compotes and jellies from them are of excellent quality. To preserve the collection, small apricot orchards are currently planted on the territory of monasteries in Moscow, the Moscow region and the Kaluga region.

Moscow apricots are quite frost-resistant and can withstand a gradual decrease in temperature to -30C. But frost resistance is only one of many factors that determine winter hardiness. Winter hardiness refers to the entire range of known and unpredictable weather conditions that affect plants during the winter. Apricot trees, especially their flower buds, are very sensitive to sudden temperature changes. Thaws provoke the beginning of chemical, biochemical and structural changes in them. If a thaw is followed by a sharp drop in temperature, the flower buds are seriously damaged or even die. Low negative temperatures that persist for a long time also lead to their damage. The death of flower buds in the spring during flowering, which often happens in the southern regions, is almost never observed in the Moscow region; over a twenty-year period, such cases were noted only in certain areas with an unfavorable climate.

In addition to the well-known apricot

(Armeniaca vulgaris) in central Russia,
Manchurian apricot
(Armeniaca mandschurica) and
Siberian apricot
(Armeniaca sibirica) are grown. The last two species are much more winter-hardy and grow successfully in Siberia and the Far Eastern region of our country. Of course, the fruits of the common apricot, which spread with the help of humans from Italy to Armenia (in honor of which the genus of these trees received its Latin name) and from Europe to Australia, compare favorably in size and taste with the fruits of the “Manchurian” and “Siberian”. But it’s extremely difficult to grow them in a harsh climate. The gardener should also think about fungal diseases and insect pests, which cause a lot of trouble in southern apricot orchards. In this regard, his brothers are also more resilient.

When eaten fresh, the fruits of Manchurian and especially Siberian apricots are unlikely to bring much pleasure - they do not have a very sweet, rather herbaceous taste. But in processed form (dried, jam, jam, compotes) they are not inferior to the fruits of cultivated apricots. From the point of view of obtaining a harvest, it is preferable to use Manchurian apricot, whose fruits are larger, more juicy, and the tree itself is more impressive in size. This species can rightfully be considered an ornamental fruit species.

Pictured left
: apricot blossom

Apricot Siberian

— Armeniaca sibirica (L.) Lam. It is found on dry slopes, among thickets of rhododendrons and Siberian apple trees, in the Primorsky Territory, Eastern Siberia, Northern China, and Mongolia. It differs from Manchurian apricot in its smaller size (does not exceed 5 m in height), small, more rounded leaves, with an extended pointed tip. The flowers are smaller, white with a reddish tint, abundant, almost sessile, decorate the tree for 7-10 days. The fruits are also smaller, with a dry orange pericarp that cracks when ripe, inedible, but very decorative and elegant, decorating the entire plant at the time of fruiting. All phases of seasonal development pass earlier than in Manchurian apricot.

I. V. Michurin, by selecting from hybrid seedlings of Siberian apricot, obtained the following varieties: “Best Michurinsky” - frost-resistant, fast-growing and profusely flowering; “Mongol” - recommended for the middle zone; “Comrade” - with sweet fruits; "Satser". All varieties are of interest for further selection and serve as excellent material for urban and home gardening.

In the Penza region, Ukraine, West. Siberia, Leningrad and Lipetsk regions. freezes slightly.

Used in single, group, low alley plantings. In culture since 1800.

Location

: apricots are light-loving, undemanding to soil conditions, grow best in deep, well-aerated soils containing lime. They are drought and wind resistant, avoid stagnation of moisture and salinity, and grow quickly. The best areas for growing apricots are the southern, southeastern and southwestern directions from Moscow. The site must be protected from north winds. Lowlands where cold air flows are unsuitable. Choose a sunny place: apricots need to get as much heat as possible during the summer, this will help them survive the winter safely.

Care

: in the middle zone, apricot needs regular watering, especially after transplants and during growth, in May - June. In the second half of summer, plants are watered only during drought, which is rarely observed in the Moscow region. In other cases, excessive watering in August can cause protracted growth of shoots that will not ripen by winter and will freeze. From an early age, in late autumn and early spring, the trunks and main skeletal branches of the tree are whitened, adding copper sulfate to the whitewashing. Wounds and frost holes on the trunk at the end of April - in May are cleaned down to living tissue and covered with garden varnish or kuzbaslak.

Apricots grow quickly and produce their first harvest on average in the fifth to seventh year. For more effective pollination, it is advisable to have at least two seedlings on the site, or even better, three or four. With continuous cultivation and proper care, trees can bloom in the third or fourth year. Flower buds are formed on plants every year, even when they are heavily loaded with harvest. The crown of apricots is formed naturally.

Reproduction

: seeds that remain viable for up to a year, and grafting. Seeds are sown in autumn or spring after three months of stratification.

Locally adapted apricot trees can be grown from seed kernels extracted from fruit purchased at the market. There is no need to take seeds of Armenian and imported, too large fruits for sowing. They are planted immediately, without drying out, to a depth of 5-6 cm, which ensures almost 100% germination. Unlike pomaceous plants, in which, as a rule, wild plants grow from their seeds, stone fruits produce both wild plants and seedlings, which can later even surpass the parent forms in the quality of fruits.

Early in spring, in March, annual seedlings are pruned. This pruning is then carried out annually. First of all, weak, frozen branches and their ends are removed, shoots that are too long and powerful are shortened, and excess shoots that thicken the crown are cut out into rings. All sections are covered with garden varnish or thickly rubbed paints (red lead, ocher, soot) diluted with natural drying oil. If seedlings grow in a garden bed, they are transplanted to a permanent place at the age of two, immediately after the snow melts or in September - October. On fertile, structural soil, it is enough to dig a hole the size of the roots. On clay, peat or sandy soil, make it deeper and wider, arrange drainage at the bottom and fill the hole with a nutrient mixture. The best thing is to grow trees without transplanting.

Having collected the first harvest, the seed seeds are planted in the ground immediately after being extracted from the fruit. The grown seedlings will be a second generation of apricots, much more tolerant of the local climate.

Usage

: exceptionally beautiful during the flowering period, when the shoots (before the leaves bloom) are completely covered with large pink flowers. They are elegant in the autumn decoration of bright leaves and at the time of fruiting. Can be used to decorate gardens, parks, forest parks, squares, in intra-block landscaping, in single and group plantings. Apricot flowers exude a pleasant honey aroma - after all, apricot is a wonderful, early honey plant. Among the beautifully flowering tree species, low almond, Daurian rhododendron, and forsythia bloom at the same time.

It is still believed that apricot, as a southern crop, has virtually no chance of surviving in Siberia, but not everything is so hopeless. There are growing and care methods suitable for very harsh climates.

Apricot grows in light soils that allow air and water to pass through. In the garden it is given the highest areas. On the hills and slopes, apricot yields are stable and high. The plant loves warmth and light. It tolerates drought well, but by the period of fruit bud formation (late May), the trees must be provided with moisture and nutrition. The frost resistance of wood is high - plants safely tolerate Siberian frosts down to minus 40°C.

Apricots can be planted in spring (if the seedlings are bare-rooted) and in autumn. For planting, it is better to purchase seedlings with a closed root system, that is, planted in pots - they have more advantages over an open root. The plant suffers less when transplanted and this can be done both in autumn and spring, and there is no need to rush - the planting time can be extended (optimal - from mid-April to mid-November). Their survival rate is very good because the root system is well developed.

Apricot diseases and pests

In a diseased tree, lesions and damage to leaves, flowers, fruits and skeletal branches can be observed. Most often, apricot is susceptible to clasterosporiosis, moniliosis, cytosporosis, verticillium, bacterial canker, and gnomoniasis.

Moniliosis is fruit rot. The spores of the fungus that causes it can infect the entire plant. The fruits are initially covered with small spots. Then, growing, the disease affects the entire surface of the apricot. The inside of the fruit becomes brown.

Mature apricot tree (photo)

Cytosporosis, in another way, is called artificial drying out. The bark may suddenly turn brownish-red, and the tree will die.

Verticillium usually appears in June. The disease affects the leaves. They first turn yellow and lose their brightness, and then fall off.

With bacterial cancer, all plant organs are affected. The tree suddenly dies.

Gnomoniasis is brown leaf spot. First, yellow spots appear on them. Then they turn brown and cover the entire leaf, which dries out and falls off.

Apricots can be attacked by stalks, aphids, moths and other pests. Therefore, plants should be treated in a timely manner with drugs such as Actellik, Decis

During this event, it is important to strictly follow the instructions.

The gardener should be well aware of the diagnostic signs of each apricot disease. Because it is much easier to prevent them than to treat them.

The benefits and harms of Siberian apricot fruits

Apricot in the Urals (planting and care)

Seeds, leaves, bark and ripe fruits are saturated with poisonous toxins that pose a threat to human life only in large quantities. Small doses of these substances act exactly the opposite: like medicine. Apricot kernels contain the substance amygdalin, which is used in asthma medications, is used as an antiseptic, and even treats coughs.

Thanks to this substance, the seeds are used to improve digestion and stimulate respiratory processes. In addition, Siberian apricot seeds are used to produce high-quality almond oil and almond water. In folk medicine, the seeds are used to treat nervous disorders and skin diseases. Siberian folk healers note the positive use of tinctures of shrub leaves containing hydrocyanic acid as a means of destroying cancer cells.

Siberian apricot fruits

Planting process

Every gardener should know how to plant apricots correctly. Therefore, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the step-by-step instructions in advance, with the help of which you will be able to correctly place the seedlings. The landing process consists of several successive stages:

Preparation of seedlings. A day before planting, it is necessary to prepare a mixture consisting of clay and manure. The clay consistency should resemble sour cream. The roots of the tree are dipped into the mash and left there for 1-2 hours.
Preparing the hole. The planting hole must be filled with soil, after which a hole is made in it. Its dimensions must correspond to the size of the root system.
Landing. The tree must be placed in a dug hole. At the same time, it must be planted in such a way that the root collar is at a distance of 5-7 centimeters from the soil surface. The planted tree should be sprinkled with soil and compacted a little. After this, a small edge 7-8 centimeters high is constructed around the planting hole.
Garter. The apricot must be immediately tied to a support so that it is fixed in a level position.

Additional Information! After planting, the soil around the tree trunk needs to be mulched with a thin layer of humus and peat.

The best varieties of apricot for Siberia

Through selective breeding, many varieties of apricot trees have been developed that are adapted to cold climates and produce good harvests.

Sibiryak Baikalova

Brought out in the late 70s of the last century. Withstands temperatures down to -40 C. Grows up to 3.5 m, spreading and wide crown is not very dense.

Seraphim

Khabarovsk

Anniversary

Amur

Academician

Snegirek

East Siberian

Frost-resistant varieties

It is difficult to grow apricots in cold conditions, but breeders have managed to develop several varieties that can withstand frosts and produce excellent fruits, despite the harsh winter. The best varieties: Sayansky, Sibiryak Baikalova, Gorny Abakan, Amur, Khabarovsk, Zolotaya Kostochka and Superior, which grows in the south of Siberia. Characteristics of frost-resistant varieties:

Siberian Sayan apricot produces approximately 16 kg of fruit from one tree. Plant height is 3 m. Sayan apricot begins to bloom in late May and early June. One fruit weighs 25 g.
The Sibiryak Baikalova variety reaches 3.5 m. It has a ruddy color and its flesh is aromatic. Blooms in May. One tree produces 20 kg of harvest.
Mountain Abakan. Its advantage is its ease of maintenance and resistance to frost. Begins to bloom in May. It grows up to 3 m in height. The fruits are orange in color and have a dense structure. One fruit weighs 30 g.
Description of the Khabarovsk variety: tall tree, beautiful and lush foliage, cone-shaped fruits. The weight of one fruit is 40 g.
Handsome Cupid is the best of all varieties. It blooms very early, and the weight of one fruit is 25 g. The shape is oval, elongated.
Superior apricots are very tall, reaching 5 m in height. The plant is resistant to disease and cold. The fruits are orange, and 40% are pink. The pulp is juicy and very aromatic.
Apricot Golden stone reaches 3.5 m. Winter fruits are round and yellow. The weight of the fruit is 14 g. The pulp smells great and has an amazing taste.

Apricot Sibiryak Baikalova gives good yields

Late varieties of apricots

Late-maturing trees begin to bear fruit in late summer. The fruits ripen at the end of August. Most Popular:

Kunach

Description of the variety: bred using pollination of the Dessert variety. It has cone-shaped buds that are frost-resistant. Suitable for cultivation in areas with temperate climates.

medium fruits 30g;
sweet and sour taste;
versatility;
good transportability.

Apricot Tumanova

Description of the variety: has large fruits of 50 g. Their skin is slightly pubescent and quite dense. The fruits are bright orange with a red side. Late varieties of apricots have high yields.

high winter hardiness;
versatility;
disease resistance;
average transportability.

Alexander

Description of the variety: ripe fruits are very tasty, have dense fibrous orange pulp with a characteristic aroma. The bone is small and easily separated. The fruit can be used for winter preparations and consumed raw.

the fruits are not mealy;
deep abdominal seam;
high resistance to frost;
rarely gets sick.

Nakhodka

Description of the variety: the tree is quite large with a rounded dense crown. The fruits are large, sometimes up to 55 g, and have an orange color with reddish splashes. The fruit seed fuses with the pulp.

sweet and sour taste;
average winter hardiness;
versatility;
transportability 4+.

Monastic

The tree has a spreading crown and bears fruit in the third year after grafting. The fruits are distinguished by their pubescent skin, pinkish-red color, and dense pulp. The average weight sometimes reaches 45 g. The pulp is yellow, quite juicy and aromatic.

transportability 3+;
periodic yield;
sweet and sour taste;
universal application.

Prince March

Columnar variety that is unpretentious in cultivation. Grows up to 2 meters in height. The ripe fruit weighs about 35 g and has a pleasant taste. The seedling needs to be planted in the spring in an area with a very mild climate.

moderately resistant to frost;
there are features in feeding;
transportability 3+;
periodic yield.

Krasnodar late variety - suitable for the Kuban open spaces. Fruits in the third decade of July. The average tree bears fruit in the fourth year - fruits with excellent biochemical qualities, high in carotene and vitamins.

Which apricot seedling to choose

It makes no sense to grow apricots from seeds; it will turn out wild. To maintain the necessary varietal qualities, the plant requires grafting. Therefore, it is best to purchase plants from nurseries, agricultural fairs or garden centers just before planting.

When examining a young tree, you need to pay attention to the fact that the root system is well formed, without signs of drying out. A clearly defined grafting site indicates high-quality grafting and good regeneration.

The part of the trunk from the roots to a height of half a meter should not have cuts, peeling of the bark or other flaws. Make sure that the buds on the upper and main side branches of the apricot are alive.

It is better to give preference to two-year-old apricot seedlings. Annuals in the middle zone often freeze out in the first winter.

Rarely, it is allowed to purchase and transplant three-year-old seedlings. But the older they are, the greater the likelihood of difficulties adapting to a new place.

Planting apricot in autumn

Autumn is considered a favorable period for planting young plants. At this time of year, the soil is quite loose and saturated with moisture. Planting trees in the fall promotes better rooting. In the autumn season, wounds in the root system heal well. Plants that grow during the rainy season will avoid drought and will grow well with the onset of spring.

If for some reason it is impossible to plant in the fall before the onset of cold weather and it is planned for early spring, the seedlings need to be buried.

For more effective pollination, it is advisable to have at least three or four varieties on the site. Then the yield will be much higher.

Selection of seat

To make growing enjoyable and the fruits to grow well, you should carefully select the site:

The plant will not grow well if the soil is rough and does not allow air and water to pass through well. It is desirable that the soil be light and have a slightly alkaline reaction.
The place where the tree will grow should not have a lot of snow in winter.
Siberian apricot should grow on a hill or on the slopes of a mountain.
The tree will not like cold masses.
Groundwater should flow no higher than 2.5 m.
East Siberian apricot loves sunny and warm places.

East Siberian apricot should be planted in well-lit areas

Watering an apricot

If the compacted soil has settled, you can start watering the seedling. To ensure the soil is well saturated, you will need 2 buckets of water. After the hole has been watered with one bucket, it is recommended to wait half an hour and then fill it with a second one. It is important to thoroughly drain the excavated cavity. Further watering is carried out 1-2 times a week in the absence of rain.

Note. At gardeners' dachas, water is sometimes supplied quite late, and the plants are not watered, which negatively affects their development.

Winter-hardy varieties

Trees can withstand low temperatures, especially frost-resistant buds, as well as thaws, frosts in the spring, and temperature fluctuations. These are Bai, Kirov, Laureate, Handsome, Sayan, Hardy, Red-cheeked, Mountain Abakan, Golden Bone, Honey, Monastyrsky, Spassky, Ussuriysky.

Columnar apricots

These varieties have recently been developed by breeders. They are distinguished by a compact crown, up to 3 m high, 0.5 m wide, and resemble a column. Makes it easier to care for, trim, and process. The harvest is high, the fruits are tasty and juicy. The most famous are Sunny, Gold, Star, Prince.

Self-fertile

Apricot trees that are able to pollinate themselves are highly prized. These are Dessertny, Rattle, Sardonyx, Tsarsky. But they cannot pollinate all the flowers, so they plant pollinating trees nearby to increase the yield.

Low-growing and dwarf varieties

Trees do not exceed 2.5 m. The harvest can be harvested without the help of a stepladder. Another advantage is that such varieties are completely covered for the winter. Popular - Cup, Black Mouse.

Planting East Siberian apricot in Siberia in spring

One of the most popular varieties of fruit crops recommended for growing in the Siberian region is the East Siberian apricot, which has excellent taste and large fruits, a round shape of a yellow-green hue, and a lateral blush.

To grow this miracle apricot in the garden, it is recommended to know how to properly plant apricots in spring in Siberia:

Careful selection of site. The fruit crop does not take root well on rough soil that does not allow air and moisture to pass through. Light soil with a slightly alkaline reaction is best suited. In winter, the landing site should not be heavily covered with snow.
The tree is best planted on a hilly hill or on a mountain slope.
The East Siberian variety is ideally suited to well-lit areas, protected from draft cold winds.
The groundwater level of the site should not be higher than 2.5 meters.

Note! To grow apricots, it is recommended to buy seedlings in specialized nurseries in Siberia and the city of Moscow, where qualified consultants will offer grafted trees adapted to the harsh Siberian climatic conditions. Although many gardeners prefer a different method of growing apricots and grow them specifically from seeds

It is recommended to plant the seeds in spring or autumn in small furrows, 5 to 7 cm deep; such shallow planting promotes rapid seed germination and the emergence of seedlings. As soon as the plants reach two years of age, they are transplanted to a permanent location in standard-sized planting pits. In early spring, after the snow melts, grown seedlings must be pruned, poorly overwintered branches removed and overgrown branches shortened. Cut marks are treated with garden varnish

Although many gardeners prefer a different method of growing apricots and grow them specifically from the seed. It is recommended to plant the seeds in spring or autumn in small furrows, 5 to 7 cm deep; such shallow planting promotes rapid seed germination and the emergence of seedlings. As soon as the plants reach two years of age, they are transplanted to a permanent location in standard-sized planting pits. In early spring, after the snow melts, grown seedlings must be pruned, poorly overwintered branches removed and overgrown branches shortened. Cut marks are treated with garden varnish.

Important! This sanitary pruning is performed annually.

How best to form a seedling

To properly form a fruit tree, you need to know the rules for pruning seedlings:

When planting, the tap part of the root of an annual apricot is cut to 15-20 cm. This value is approximate and depends on the size and number of lateral roots, which are also recommended to be shortened to 20 cm.
In order for the apricot to grow in the form of a trunk, its central conductor is cut so that at a height of more than half a meter there are from 12 to 16 buds left for the development of “skeletal” side branches.
If the apricot needs to be formed as a bush, then in this case it is necessary to select several of the most massive shoots, evenly spaced in a circle, and the rest will have to be removed. The remaining shoots must be shortened by a quarter or a third of the length. There is one nuance in this pruning: the lower branches are trimmed less, and the upper ones - more.

Pruning of young apricot seedlings is carried out in order to form a strong tree crown with a uniform circular distribution of lateral “skeletal” branches with strong angles of departure from the trunk.

How best to form a seedling

How to grow apricots in Siberia?

To avoid disappointment, it is important to take into account the peculiarities of apricot agricultural technology. Young seedlings can safely tolerate a short-term drop in temperature to -32 degrees

But they may suffer from persistent light frosts. Temperatures below -25 degrees can be detrimental to the tree.

Apricot does not tolerate temperature changes and surges that can happen in early spring. Flower buds emerge from dormancy with the first rays of the spring sun. During this period, there is a risk of buds and flowers freezing. A short-term drop in temperature to -1 degree will destroy the ovaries.

Taking these factors into account, apricots need to be reliably protected from the cold and carefully prepared for winter. An important condition when growing apricots in the middle zone is the preparation of the seedling and its proper planting.

When looking for a place for an apricot, avoid all the lowlands on the site. With this arrangement, the seedling will definitely be exposed to spring frosts, and cold fogs will destroy the ovary. Give preference to more elevated areas that are reliably protected from the winds.

Apricots in Siberia are planted in the spring, after the threat of frost has passed. Autumn planting of seedlings is undesirable. The young tree will not have time to take root sufficiently and will die in the winter. When choosing a tree, preference should be given to young seedlings whose age does not exceed two years. The root system of the plant must be well developed, with at least three main roots.

Transportation of the seedling to the planting site is carried out carefully so as not to damage the roots

It is also important to monitor their humidity. To do this, the lower part of the plant is packed in a bag, pre-wrapped with a damp cloth.

If the root system has dried out, it is better to soak it before planting. The lower part of the tree is lowered into a bucket of water and left for about 12 hours.

Apricot does not tolerate too wet soils, so for its cultivation a place is selected where the groundwater level is no higher than 2.5 meters. The seedling develops well on light loamy soils with a slightly alkaline reaction. During the growing season, the plant consumes a lot of nutrients, so the soil must be rich in microelements.

Apricots react especially sharply to potassium deficiency. The lack of this element leads to a decrease in yield. To reduce the risk of potassium starvation, it is necessary to regularly feed the tree with mineral fertilizers.

Before planting the seedlings, pits are prepared in advance. The size of the hole must correspond to the root system and be at least 50 cm deep. The width of the planting hole is made from 50 cm to 80 cm. If several trees are planted, then the required number of pits is prepared. The distance between seedlings is more than 5 meters.

Apricot grows quite large, so for full development and fruiting it will need a lot of free space.

The planting hole is well filled with fertilizers. To plant one tree use:

manure - 10 liters;
granulated superphosphate – 500 g;
potassium sulfate – 500 gr.

All fertilizers are mixed with the soil and a hole is left for shrinkage. Planting is carried out after a few weeks, while monitoring the location of the root collar. It is located 5 cm above the soil level. Improper planting leads to soaking of the root collar and further diseases. At the end of the work, the plants are watered abundantly.

If the groundwater level rises above the required level, then in the planting hole you need to make a good drainage layer from broken bricks, shards and other material.

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This is interesting: Apricot in the Urals (planting and care)

Growing conditions

There are no special requirements for planting apricots. When planting this tree, you need to take into account that its crown grows spreading, which is why a dense arrangement is unacceptable for it. Apricot can withstand frosts down to -25 0C, and especially winter-hardy varieties can survive -30 0C, while the plant can shed buds if frosts rise to -16 0C. After severe freezing, frozen trees are difficult to recover.

For good fruiting, it must be planted in fertile soil, but so that the groundwater is at a depth of 2 meters. Apricot, unlike other trees, can tolerate drought, but reacts sharply to high humidity. When choosing soils, it is better to give preference to dry, clay or rocky types. It will also be interesting to learn about how to properly plant an apple tree seedling in the spring.

Video shows how to grow an apricot from a seed:

After planting, the fruits appear in the second year. Some varieties of this fruit are self-pollinating, while others require outside pollination.

Growing apricot from seed

To grow seedlings with seeds, you need to take only seeds from a healthy and productive tree. Before planting, the seeds are washed under water and soaked in water. Then they are dried and left in this form until spring.

With the onset of spring, the bones are soaked in water for a week. The water is changed periodically. The bones are then placed in damp moss or sawdust. The temperature in the room where the seeds are located should be from +4 to +12 degrees.

When growing apricots in Siberia, they take time to stratify. This stage takes 1-3 months. After the seed bursts and sprouts appear, they are planted in the soil outside. The sprouts are planted to a depth of 5-6 cm. If you care for the sprouts correctly, then after a year they are planted in a permanent place. Growing an apricot from a seed takes from 1 to 3 years.

Apricot in the middle zone: growing features and best varieties

Fragrant, aromatic apricots with soft, velvety skin and pulp that melts in your mouth are loved by adults and children. They make excellent preserves, marmalade, pastilles, dried fruits and juices. It is not surprising that apricot trees are grown in almost every garden in regions with a suitable climate. In this article we will tell you which apricot varieties are most suitable for central Russia. In addition, we will talk about how to choose the right place for a seedling and how to care for it so that the plant is formed correctly and bears fruit abundantly.

Apricot in the middle zone - growing features and best varieties

The work of breeders was not in vain

Apricot variety "Sibiryak Baikalova"

Breeders from the Far Eastern Research Institute of Agriculture have developed a number of apricot varieties with excellent winter-hardy qualities. They are zoned in different periods. Perfect for growing in Siberia and the Urals.

Among them, the large-fruited varieties Akademik, Amur and Khabarovsky are especially popular. These are medium-sized plants. Productivity is high. The fruits have excellent taste.

The second group of interesting varieties was bred in Khakassia. They are distinguished by early ripening and winter hardiness. The most interesting varieties for gardeners in these regions may be the East Siberian, Sibiryak Baikalova, and Zolotoy Sibiryak varieties.

They are interesting because the onset of fruiting occurs after two or three years of the scion’s life. At the same time, the quality of the fruit does not suffer.

Apricot variety "Snezhinsky"

Breeders from the South Ural Research Institute of Horticulture and Potato Growing are engaged in the creation of winter-hardy promising varieties for harsh climatic conditions. Their works are no less popular among gardeners.

Promising, productive apricot varieties have been appreciated by gardeners more than once. The following varieties deserve attention:

Kigichinsky;
Golden bone;
Honey;
Snezhinsky;
Uralets.

We invite you to watch a video about how apricots are grown in the Urals:

Planting and care

In order for an apricot to settle well in a new place, it must be planted correctly. This is done in early spring, when the soil has thawed by about 10 cm or a little more. But autumn planting in the harsh Siberian conditions is contraindicated for apricots: it does not allow the tree to take root, negating the likelihood of its survival.

The procedure for planting apricots requires compliance with the following rules.

The pits must be prepared in advance. Their minimum depth should be 50 cm, and their diameter should be about 60-70 cm.
The recommended distance between pits is from 5 m. This value is determined by the spreading nature of mature apricot trees, which require significant free space.
Provided that groundwater can rise above the permissible level, a drainage layer must be placed at the bottom of each pit. The latter would include shards, crushed bricks and similar materials.
To prevent the apricot seedling from suffering from a lack of nutrients, the pit is fertilized using a mixture of soil and manure (about 10 l), supplemented with potassium sulfate and superphosphate (0.5 kg of each).
After several weeks, you can begin planting a young tree (this wait is explained by the time required for shrinkage).
If the roots of the seedling have dried out, they are left in water for about half a day.
When placing the plant in a hole, it is necessary to monitor its root collar, which should be 5 cm above the ground surface.
At the end, the seedling remains to be thoroughly watered and securely tied to a vertical peg, which allows you to adjust the direction of growth of the tree.

As for caring for planted apricots, it provides for the following points:

supply of sufficient air to the roots, for which the soil must be loosened to a depth of 7-9 cm;
elimination of weeds that deplete the soil and worsen the appearance of the garden plot;
application of complex fertilizing, carried out in spring and autumn, and organic fertilizers, carried out once every 3 years;
timely treatment of damaged areas and regular whitewashing of trees in early spring or late autumn;
mulching with humus and covering the soil around the apricot with spruce, necessary to ensure trouble-free wintering;
In spring or autumn, it is advisable for the gardener to wrap the trunks and skeletal branches of trees with fiberglass - a material that allows them to be protected from rodents, critically low temperatures and sunburn.

Watering and fertilizing

Fruit trees are moisture-loving. They need regular watering; apricot seedlings and plants after transplanting to a new location are especially demanding of this. The second half of summer is calmer. Watering during this period is needed only if there is a drought, otherwise excess moisture will lead to strong growth of shoots that will not have time to ripen by winter.

Fertilizers should be applied to the soil. If she is poor enough, then this should be done once a year. Starting from the age of two, apricots are fed in early spring and late autumn with complex mineral preparations. Organic fertilizers in the form of peat, compost, humus are applied as needed, but at least once every 3-5 years.

Choosing a location on the site

For planting, seedlings are taken, purchased or grown from seeds, the age of which varies from 1 to 2 years. They are planted by choosing the right place. It should not be lowland; the plant requires:

a lot of warmth and sun;
no drafts.

It is undesirable to use southern slopes, because in hot weather the growing season begins earlier, which harms the level of winter hardiness of the crop. Also in this case, flowering most often coincides with the last spring frosts.

It is also important to take into account the composition of the soil, which must be breathable. It is undesirable to allow water to flood or the soil to become waterlogged, as this can lead to the death of the plant.

You need to pay attention to the composition of the soil. If it is a clay composition, peat and sand are added to it in equal parts. Ideal are loams and light loamy soils with a slightly acidic or neutral reaction.

Loams and light loamy soils with a slightly acidic or neutral reaction are ideal.

The best and promising varieties

For a long time, such heat-loving crops as apricots and peaches did not take root in horticultural farms of the Siberian region. Experienced domestic and foreign breeders relatively recently managed to make the dream of Siberian gardeners come true, thanks to which apricot varieties that are quite stable and bear fruit well in harsh climatic conditions have appeared.

Variety name	Tree	Fruit	Bloom	Peculiarities
"Sibiryak Baikalova"	No more than 3.5 m in height, with a spreading crown with a diameter of 4 m	Medium size, weighing up to 23−25 g, with a light blush, aromatic and dense pulp	May	Rapid growth and development
"Sayan"	Height no more than 2.5−3 m, medium growth vigor	Weighing 25−30 g, round, without blush	May–early June	Productivity of the hybrid form is up to 15−16 kg per tree
"Khabarovsky"	A vigorous plant with a sparse and spreading crown	Large, weighing up to 40−45 g, round-cone-shaped, slightly compressed	Second ten days of May	Powerful and unpretentious plant
"Northern lights"	Medium vigor, with high winter hardiness	Round, with a clearly defined seam, weight 25−30, with good taste	Second ten days of May	Category of elite varieties
"Mountain Abakan"	No more than 2.8−3 m in height, has good frost resistance	Weighing 28−30 g, with dense, orange pulp	May	Unpretentious and highly resistant variety
"Handsome"	Medium vigor, height no more than 3.5 m	Weighing 15−17 g, with a red blush, ripens in August	May−June	The fruiting period begins in the second year
"Amur"	Medium vigor, dense, rounded-elongated crown	Rounded and elongated, weighing no more than 25−26 g	Early flowering	The most promising variety of all the newly created ones

Gardeners also deserve the attention of such varieties as “Kigichinsky”, “Zolotaya Kostochka”, “Honey”, “Snezhinsky”, “Uralets”, which have proven themselves well in home gardening in the Siberian region.

Winter hardiness is not the same as frost resistance

Apricot variety "Amur"

The harsh climatic conditions of Siberia and the Urals are characterized by winters with air temperatures reaching thirty to forty degrees Celsius. Apricot varieties for this zone must have good winter-hardy qualities.

Such as:

harsh winter temperatures;
spring frosts;
sudden changes in temperature;
prolonged thaws;
excessive stagnation of moisture;
sunburn (not only in summer).

It is important to know:

Frost resistance and winter hardiness are different concepts. The first characteristic determines the culture’s resistance only to low temperatures. Winter hardiness is a broader concept. This is the resistance of the variety to a number of unfavorable conditions in winter and early spring.

In Siberia and the Urals, apricot varieties that are resistant to the listed unfavorable factors are suitable. They were obtained by crossing ordinary cultivated apricot species with wild ones that have good winter-hardy qualities. The fruits of these trees vary in taste and size and are slightly different from their southern counterparts.

Choosing the right place

First of all, you need to choose the right place to plant your apricot. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the following features of growing this crop:

The tree will develop poorly on heavy soil that does not allow enough air and moisture to pass through. Light loamy soil with a slightly alkaline reaction is perfect for it.
It is necessary to choose a place where the minimum amount of snow will accumulate in winter.
Apricot needs an elevated area: the southern slope of a mountain, a hill or a hill.
Cold air masses are harmful to the plant.
Groundwater in this area should not rise above 2.5 meters.
Apricot loves light and warmth.
It does not tolerate dense planting well.

So, so that the result does not disappoint, first of all, you need to choose the right place to plant the apricot.

Expert opinion

Yulia Yurievna

I have a large garden and vegetable garden, several greenhouses. I love modern methods of cultivating plants and mulching the soil, and I share my experience.

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Growing apricots in Siberia requires preparing a place in advance. To ensure that the soil is loose and drained, we recommend digging up the area several months before planting with the addition of deoxidized peat, humus, old sawdust, and a small amount of sand. Before planting, the soil will settle a little and return to its natural state. Therefore, before planting, it will be clear whether additional improvement of the soil structure is required. The day before planting, you can treat the selected area with boiling water several meters in diameter. This will destroy harmful bacteria, spores and insect larvae. Since these negative factors will not interfere with the rooting of the tree, it will take root better. It is better if there is a fence or a house wall located not far from the tree, perhaps a front garden of some large shrubs. This will protect the young apricot seedling for Siberia from the cold wind. But you shouldn’t place other large crops directly next to the plant, especially those that are infected with similar infections. In addition to hills, planting on the plain is allowed. But we categorically do not recommend planting in lowlands. The moisture accumulated during the spring thaw will harm the rhizome. Rotting processes may begin which will cause the apricot to die.

How to protect apricots from damping off

Root collar damping off is when the bark and cambium are damaged by heat and moisture. This happens when the soil has not yet frozen, but a decent layer of snow has already fallen. The ground temperature under the snow remains at 0...-3°C. As a result, the tree breathes intensely, but there is not enough air because everything is covered with snow. Ice appears in the tissues. And the damping off of the root collar is ready.

Inexperienced gardeners cover apricots with snow due to damping off, but this only aggravates the situation. Damping off is not freezing out. Freezing is caused by cold, and damping off is caused by moisture and heat.

How to protect apricots from damping off:

Do not plant where there is snow in a layer of 40-50 cm or more.
Plant on the south or southeast side, in an area where the snow melts quickly in the spring. Agronomists recommend planting apricots on a hill about a meter high: then the snow is blown away and the water quickly drains in the spring.
Rake and trample snow from the apricot trunk.
Do this immediately in November-December before severe frosts. If there are winter thaws in the region, then push wet snow away from the apricot in winter so that it does not come into contact with the trunk.
Organize a dry winter:
at the end of October, isolate the apricot trunk from contact with snow. For example, you can put a “box” with walls made of wooden boards. Or drive 5-6 stakes around the trunk, cover it with spunbond or burlap and tie the top to make a hut.
Freeze the soil before a layer of snow falls.
To do this, the soil around the trunk is forced with metal buckets, bottom up, and this way the first cold weather is withstood.

Further care after planting

After planting an apricot tree, in order to speed up its growth and make it easier to get used to a new place, proper and regular care is required. Do not forget about watering and additional fertilizing, which will strengthen the root system. Timely pruning and pest control will help you get a harvest within 2-3 years after planting the seedling.

Watering

During the first year after planting, the apricot tree needs regular watering. In moist soil, the roots of the seedling begin to form. If the spring turns out to be dry, water the tree before flowering begins and a month after it ends. Regular watering is also necessary 10-14 days before the fruits begin to form, due to which they become more juicy, aromatic and large in size.

For 1 sq. m of food requires about 50 liters of water. In case of a dry summer, water the seedling much more. The seedling needs abundant watering after the foliage turns yellow. In autumn, water consumption increases to 90 liters per 1 sq. m of food.

Top dressing

For an apricot tree, the ideal feeding option would be peat and mineral mixtures, which should be applied in the spring. Once the tree reaches five years of age, you can apply organic fertilizers.

It is better to adhere to the following fertilizer application scheme:

Every year, fertilize in spring and autumn with a special complex of mineral fertilizers;
2 years after planting the tree, add 50 g of ammonium nitrate, 110 g of superphosphate and 40 g of potassium chloride for fertilizing.

4 years after planting the tree, the volume of fertilizers increases - 60 g of potassium chloride, 200 g of superphosphate, 110 g of ammonium nitrate. An excellent option for fertilizing would be organic types of fertilizers.

Trimming

Every spring it is necessary to form the crown of a fruit tree; to do this, remove all unnecessary branches. This procedure allows the crown to warm up much better, receive enough sunlight, and the amount of harvest increases. Remove weakened and infected branches, as well as shoots that grow upward.

Annual apricot shoots bear fruit, with most of the fruit appearing on the continuation shoots. That is why in spring these branches only need to be cut to half their length. New buds will appear on the remaining part of the branch.

Perform summer pruning after the crop is harvested. This allows you to rejuvenate the crown. Mature trees do not need to be heavily pruned, as they do not tolerate this procedure quite well. How and when to prune apricots can be found in this article.

Diseases and pests

	ScabWays to combat: Before flowering, treat the tree with fungicides: Captan-50, Topsin-M, repeat after flowering; as a preventive measure, use a solution of mustard powder (20 g per 2 liters of water); in spring, summer and autumn, spray plants with rich pink potassium permanganate
CytosporosisMethods of control: remove affected branches; prune the crown in spring; cover the wounds with garden varnish and cement the hollows; in the fall, feed the trees with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer
	Bark diseasesMethods of control: peel the bark to dry wood; dry wounds; treat with an antifungal drug; cover up the damage with beeswax-based garden varnish

Tree care

From a very early age, trees begin to be whitewashed. The work is carried out in late autumn and early spring. For this, use a mixture of whitewash with a small addition of copper sulfate. Damage caused by frost and wounds on the trunks are covered with varnish. To protect fruit trees from rodents, frost and the scorching spring sun, from autumn until April, wrap the bases of skeletal branches and trunks with fiberglass.

The crown of a tree is formed naturally, without intervention. Siberian apricot is very painful to pruning, so it is better to avoid it.