Growing red currants - step by step instructions

Currants should grow on any summer cottage. Red currant is one of the most famous shrubs in the European part of Russia. Such a crop can be compared in popularity to raspberries, gooseberries or black currants. The culture is frost-resistant and can tolerate frosts down to -45°C. Such a crop can be grown in the vast expanses of Eastern or Western Siberia, as well as in the regions of the Far East. However, red berries are not grown as often as black ones.

Description of red currant as a berry bush

Red currant is one of the most common crops. The berries have a pleasant taste, but they are also healthy. One of the reasons for its popularity is its easy care.

The height of the bushes is 1.2-2 m. The bush has developed shoots, leaves growing along the entire length of them. Basal shoots may develop at the base. This is a long-lived plant, because with proper care it can bear fruit for up to 25 years.

But, like other berry crops, currants quickly consume all the nutrients from the soil, which is why it is so important to remember the need to regularly fertilize this plant. Otherwise, it will not be possible to reap a rich harvest.

Other features of red currant include:

• flowering begins in mid-May, the buds are framed by red or yellow petals;
• in mid-June the berries begin to ripen;
• fruits grow in clusters on light stalks, their diameter can reach 1.2 cm;
• This crop has powerful roots, which allows them to penetrate deep into the soil and draw out the necessary nutrients;
• To achieve better yields, it is recommended to plant several different varieties on the site - this will allow for cross-pollination.

It should be noted that the berry has a rich vitamin composition, therefore the fruits of this plant are very useful. So, red currants contain vitamins A, E, C, PP, H, as well as all B vitamins. In addition, they contain valuable minerals and fatty acids. At the same time, red currants are low in calories - 100 g of berries contain only 43 kcal.

Red currant reduces the risk of developing cancer, slows down the aging process, strengthens the immune system, and cleanses the body of toxins.

Despite the many positive properties, red currants also have a number of contraindications. The culture contains organic acids that can cause irritation to the gastric mucosa. Therefore, you should avoid using the product if you have a stomach ulcer, gastritis, or liver pathologies.

Also, red currants can lead to a worsening of the condition with hepatitis and pancreatitis. It is not recommended to include berries in the diet if you have blood diseases, such as hemophilia.

Top dressing

Each red currant bush must be fed with 50 grams of nitrogen fertilizer. After feeding, the plant is watered abundantly. You can sprinkle about half a bucket of humus around the base of the bush, then sprinkle some potash and phosphorus fertilizers. In order for these substances to properly saturate the roots, you need to do light digging - shallow and watering. This will help the sorrel to become stronger and stronger, which will significantly affect its growth and the formation of good and healthy fruits.

Advantages and disadvantages of growing red currants

The positive features of this culture include:

• beneficial properties, high taste value, which makes the plant one of the most popular;
• early maturity - the harvest can be harvested already in the first year after planting the seedling;
• winter hardiness - having chosen a suitable variety, you don’t have to worry that the crop will die when the first frosts occur;
• the possibility of freezing berries without losing their medicinal properties.

But the culture also has some minor disadvantages:

• despite the ease of care, we must not forget the basic rules of planting and growing - otherwise, you should not expect large harvests;
• this plant is picky about its neighbors - you should not plant it close to plums, cherries, raspberries; unsuitable neighbors include birch and pine trees.

If you have a small plot, such “capriciousness” of the plant will not allow you to grow all the desired crops.

The best varieties for planting

There are over 70 varieties of this crop, each with its own characteristics and requirements. It is recommended to familiarize yourself with them in advance in order to choose the variety that best meets all the parameters.

Large

The most popular large varieties include:

• Viskne is a winter-hardy variety that is practically not afraid of pests and diseases, the yield per bush is up to 7 kg;
• Fertodi is a winter-hardy variety, not afraid of fungus, the weight of the berries is about 1.5 g;
• Rondom is a high-yielding variety that is frost-resistant.

currant variety "Viskne"

currant variety "Fertodi"

currant variety "Rondom"

Sweet

Popular sweet varieties include:

• Svetlana is a winter-hardy variety, the berries are small and have thin skin;
• Early sweet is a winter-hardy variety that requires close care, the berries are medium in size;
• Houghton's Castle is a high-yielding variety with medium-sized berries.

currant variety "Svetlana"

currant variety "Early sweet"

currant variety "Houghton Castle"

Early

Among the early varieties are:

• Victoria is an ideal option for further processing and freezing, the berries are medium-sized and pleasant to the taste;
• Firstborn is a frost-resistant variety. You can collect up to 10 kg from a bush.
• Serpentine is a variety that is not afraid of pests and diseases. The berries are medium, the taste is sweet and sour.

currant variety "Victoria"

currant variety "Pervenets"

currant variety "Serpentine"

Average

The most famous medium varieties of red currants:

• Buzhanskaya is a high-yielding and frost-resistant variety, the weight of the berries is up to 1 g, the fruits are suitable for further processing, including freezing;
• Gazelle is winter-hardy, resistant to fungi, the berries are small, but sweet and juicy.

currant variety "Buzhanskaya"

currant variety "Gazelle"

Late

The most popular late varieties are:

• Marmaladnitsa is a winter-hardy and high-yielding variety that is resistant to most diseases and insects;
• Dutch red is a hardy crop, resistant to anthracnose and frost.

currant variety “Marmeladnitsa”

currant variety "Dutch red"

Landing Features

It is recommended to plant the plant in the fall, but some gardeners also carry out work in the spring. When planting, you need to prepare the site and choose the right seedling. When carrying out work, it is worth remembering the optimal planting scheme.

When to plant red currants?

According to experienced gardeners, the best time to plant seedlings is mid-autumn, so that the plant has time to take root in a new place. In this case, you can harvest as early as early July under favorable weather conditions.

But if you accidentally miss the autumn planting, you can reschedule the work until the spring. True, if a number of rules are not followed, there is a high risk that the planted shrubs will not take root.

Watch the video below about planting red currants:

Planting in autumn

Autumn is considered the most favorable period for planting red currants. This time of year has several advantages:

• you can prepare a landing site in advance;
• seedlings - fresh, recently received (and not stored in the basement all winter);
• It’s not scary if the leaves dry out after planting, since the buds on the seedling are already formed.

However, there is an important point: seedlings need to be planted at least a month before sub-zero temperatures (usually the beginning of September), otherwise the bush will not take root and will freeze.

Planting in spring

Planting red currants in spring is more difficult. In order for the bush to take root in the spring, it should be planted before the buds open. During this period, the earth does not dry out completely, so many gardeners plant shrubs with already formed buds and blossoming leaves. However, there is a high probability that red currants may not take root.

Selection and preparation of seedlings

When choosing a seedling, you should look at the root: the more developed the root system, the better the plant will take root (it is advisable to have at least 3 skeletal roots). If the bark peels off a little, it’s not a big deal, it’s important that the branches are not dry. The height of the above-ground part is about 40 cm.

If the seedling was purchased in a pot, it must be carefully removed from the container to ventilate the root system.

Soil preparation

It is very important to prepare the site in advance. If planting is planned in the spring, the holes should be made in the fall. This is required for soil settlement. To speed up the process, pour water over them. Red currants prefer slightly acidic loamy soil.

It is necessary to properly prepare the land. If the soil is sandy, you need to add a little clay, if it is sandy, add minerals. Due to this, the soil will “breathe”. Chalk or limestone is added to the acidic soil (40 kg per hundred square meters).

The holes need to be formed a couple of months before planting the seedlings. Thanks to this, harmful substances that are part of many fertilizers will evaporate from the soil. Fertilizers mixed with the top layer of soil are placed at the bottom of the hole. The fertilizer consists of 10 kg of compost, 300 g of ash, 200 g of superphosphate. Manure will also work, but in this case add some straw and sawdust. The main thing is not to use nitrogen-based fertilizers.

4-5 months before planting, you need to add 15 kg of organic matter, 50 g of potassium and phosphorus additives per 1 square meter. m plot.

Planting scheme

The optimal distance between seedlings is 1.5 m, at least 2.5 m from the bush to the trees. Planting closer will result in slower plant growth due to intertwined roots. Also try to plant the bushes at least 1.2 m from the fence, otherwise the plant will be very darkened.

It is not recommended to plant the plant near other bushes that grow quickly (for example, near raspberries, gooseberries) - they will begin to choke the growth of currants.

Site selection

Currants can grow in one place and bear fruit for 25–35 years, so the choice of where to plant them must be approached carefully.

• For currants, you need a well-lit area, protected from cold winds. It should not be planted in lowlands or areas where groundwater comes too close to the surface. If you want to plant currant bushes on the north side of the site, it is necessary that they are protected from the cold north wind by a fence.
• Currant bushes planted along the garden paths will look good.
• Make sure in advance that there is enough space for it in the area that you intend to allocate for red currants. The distance between currant bushes and a fence or pedestrian path, as well as other plants, should be at least one and a half meters.
• Red currants grow well on black soil and loamy soils. Prefers soil with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction, always fertile.

A month before planting red currants, it would not hurt to dig up the area allocated for it, although this is not mandatory.

Caring for red currants

Red currant is not the most capricious crop, since it does not require specialized care. However, there are several nuances that must be observed to increase the yield of the plant.

Top dressing

In April, urea must be added - 15 g of the composition per square meter. m plot, in June - slurry or bird droppings solution (0.5 liters per 10 liter bucket of water). If it is not possible to use organic matter, about 15 g of urea, potassium sulfate and superphosphate are added to each plant.

In summer, foliar feeding with microelements is applied. In a bucket of water (10 l), dissolve 3 g of boric acid, 10 g of manganese sulfate, 2 g of copper sulfate, 2 g of ammonium molybdate, 2 g of zinc sulfate. Carry out all activities in cloudy weather.

In mid-autumn, carry out the last fertilizing: for each plant, add a mixture of 15 g of organic matter, 100 g of superphosphate, 60 g of potassium chloride. Read more about autumn feeding here.

In the following video, an experienced gardener talks about feeding currants at different times of the year:

Spring care

At the beginning of March, sanitary pruning and shaping is carried out. In April you need to feed the bushes with urea. As soon as the soil dries, be sure to loosen the soil around the currants to a depth of about 8 cm, then mulch.

It happens that in May there are slight frosts during flowering. In this case, it is necessary to protect the plants with smoke. And so that the crop does not experience a lack of water, the soil should be slightly moist. It is important to remove weeds by loosening the soil to a depth of 8 cm. The procedure must be carried out every 14 days.

We recommend reading an additional article on how to properly care for currants in the spring.

Summer care

In June you need to feed the currants using organic fertilizers. Additionally, the bushes are sprayed with a solution of microfertilizers. It is also important to inspect the plants - if pests are found, they need to be collected and destroyed.

When it is time to harvest, the berries need to be removed as they ripen and placed in small boxes. After this, the bushes must be watered and the soil loosened.

Autumn care

At the end of September, the soil needs to be moistened, organic matter and mineral fertilizers added, and the soil must be dug up. When the leaves begin to fall, you need to prune the currants.

Read the article about how to care for currant bushes in the autumn.

Watering

The plant has quite powerful roots, which makes the crop more tolerant to drought, but if there is a lack of moisture, the berries will begin to shrink. It is important to regularly water the crop, especially during the period of active growth and when the ovaries appear, when the berries are forming.

For every sq. m requires 20 liters of water, which will allow you to saturate the ground to a depth of about 40 cm. First, you need to make grooves around the bush about 15 cm deep, located 30-40 cm from the bushes. When the soil dries out a little, you need to thoroughly loosen it, which will avoid the formation of a crust.

Pruning and shaping the bush

Red currants require formative, sanitary and rejuvenating pruning. Work is carried out either at the beginning of spring or at the end of autumn, when the plant is dormant:

1. In the first year, 50% of young shoots are removed. This will contribute to the formation of a beautiful bush.
2. For up to 5 years, leave no more than 20 shoots on the bushes to avoid darkening.
3. Then carry out anti-aging pruning - remove old shoots at the root, which will stimulate the growth of new ones.
4. In the fall, you should definitely carry out sanitary pruning, removing diseased and damaged shoots. Find more information on how to properly prune currants in the fall here.

Treatment

At the beginning of March, the plants are “awakened”, for which the bushes are watered with water heated to +80 degrees. Then, while the kidneys are still sleeping, they are treated with copper sulfate, which will avoid infection with various diseases. The next time the treatment is carried out with the same product two weeks after picking the berries. When buds appear, plants are treated with karbofos or Actellik.

Preparing for winter

Preparing for winter does not require much effort or time - just a few simple manipulations are enough for the shrub to survive even severe frosts:

1. Forming the crown using a sharpened knife, and the cuts must be covered with garden varnish.
2. Water-recharging irrigation will moisten the soil to a depth of about 1 m, which will have a positive effect on the development of roots. Each bush will require at least 30 liters of water. But it is important to moisten the soil gradually so that rot does not appear on the roots.
3. If autumn is too rainy, the amount of watering is reduced several times. The water should be at room temperature so that when frost sets in, it does not turn into pieces of ice that are harmful to plants.
4. Feeding. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are applied to the soil in the fall. Organic fertilizers are also popular - mullein or droppings are added to the soil just before frost.
5. Mulching. You need to dig the soil to a depth of 12 cm (no more than 5 cm when working near a bush, so as not to damage the roots). Sawdust, cardboard or leftover covering material can be used as mulch material. This procedure is necessary to create an optimal microclimate.
6. The last step is covering the bushes for the winter. In warm regions, for example, Crimea or Krasnodar, you can do without this - the branches are simply bent to the ground and fixed.

In colder regions, it is recommended to cover red currants with polyethylene, making several holes so that the plant can “breathe”. If a very cold winter is expected, the bushes can be covered with spruce branches or any non-woven material.

Trimming

The first stage of spring care (the most important and must be done with extreme care) is pruning. Absolutely all plants are processed. The branches are pruned long before the plant produces its first buds. First you need to trim off all the extra branches that have grown too far and interfere with neighboring bushes or even the plant itself, resting, for example, on a fence.

If the wood sorrel is still young, then you need to cut off all the shoots, leaving about 15 cm on each. Next year you will have to cut off other shoots that rise from the roots, but three of them, strong and strong, will need to be left. This way you can form the crown correctly.

With old redcurrant bushes, pruning is done a little differently. First of all, weak and diseased parts of the plant are removed. After leaving three young shoots (annual), the excess ones are cut off. Remove unnecessary branches right at the base. With proper pruning, red currants will always look young.

Immediately after trimming the branches, you can provide some kind of stand to support them, if, of course, you personally need this. However, it will be convenient to pick berries this way, because the sorrel will only grow upward, and the berry will not fall to the ground.

Reproduction

Gardeners can purchase ready-made seedlings at fairs, but propagation of this crop is a fairly simple process, which is why many grow plants themselves.

By layering

The main advantage is that the cuttings do not have to be separated from the mother plant. This means that he will not lack water or nutrients. But this method also has a disadvantage - it produces little material for planting.

Reproduction instructions:

1. Carefully loosen the soil around the bush, add a small amount of rotted manure. Due to this, more moisture will remain in the ground, which will get rid of crusts on the surface of the soil.
2. Make holes about 15 cm deep along the radius of the bush. Carefully place the shoots in them and press them to the ground.
3. Sprinkle with soil. Do not forget to care for the plant - water it, hill it.
4. In the fall, separate the cuttings and divide them into parts - these will be ready-made seedlings.

But it is worth remembering that the shoots of this plant break easily and it is quite difficult to bend them to the ground so as not to damage them. Therefore, the method of propagation using vertical layering is often used:

1. In spring, cut out a healthy bush, leaving a stump up to 10 cm high.
2. Sprinkle it with damp soil and hill it up.
3. Water periodically to encourage new growth to appear.
4. In the fall, carefully separate the branches along with the roots and plant them in a new place.

Cuttings

Reproduction by this method has the following advantages:

• due to the lack of replanting, the roots are not injured, which means that the cuttings take root more easily;
• you can get a lot of planting material;
• the survival rate is more than 90%.

You need to harvest cuttings in early August - during this period the movement of juices slows down, moisture is retained in the cuttings, which means they will take root more easily. If you start propagation later, the rooting process will slow down.

The breeding guidelines are as follows:

1. We choose a healthy bush, cut off annual shoots about 5-8 mm thick. We divide the branch into parts up to 20 cm long (they should have 5-7 buds). In this case, the upper cut must be made straight so that the shoots are formed correctly, the lower cut must be made oblique, which will allow the roots to better absorb moisture. Place the cuttings in a glass of water until roots form.
2. We prepare the place for planting: we dig up the soil, fertilize it with compost, add ash - this is necessary to deoxidize the soil, and water it abundantly. We make a trench about 15 cm deep. We plant it at a slight slope so that there is a distance of about 20 cm between them. A few buds should remain on the surface.
3. The soil around the cuttings needs to be compacted, watered, and mulched with humus in a layer of about 5 cm. It is recommended to cover each cutting with a plastic bottle.
4. When the cuttings overwinter and become stronger, they can be planted in a new location.

Dividing the roots

If you want to replant a bush, you can divide it into parts to immediately get plants ready for planting. The work must be carried out after the end of the growing season (usually mid-to-late October), so that the bush has time to prepare for the cold or in early spring - in this case, young seedlings will be able to take root in a new place.

Reproduction is simple:

1. We prepare holes about 50-70 cm deep, add humus, ash, and water.
2. We dig up so as not to damage the root system. We leave annual shoots and cut them to a length of 30 cm.
3. We divide the bush into parts with roots and shoots. A sharp knife is best. After completing the procedure, all sections are treated with charcoal.
4. We divide the plant into several parts so that each has roots and shoots.
5. We plant, water, hill.

Our beautiful garden

♦ Spring time. Cultivation of red currants begins in the earliest spring, at the first signs of warming.

Before the snow begins to melt, we need to carefully dig up the crown of the bushes (under the weight of snow, currant bushes can break and be damaged).

Trending Pilaf with chicken and shrimp

In addition, it is necessary to thoroughly loosen the soil under each bush, remove all debris and fallen leaves. At the same time we will remove old dry branches.

• Try to do this before the first buds begin to bloom on the currants!

When growing currants for our beauties (especially for large spreading branches of tall adult plants), you can prepare wooden supports.

This will contribute to better exposure of the currants to the sun's rays, faster ripening of the berries and an increase in yield.

Red currants are more resistant to cold and tolerate frosts better (compared to their black sister). Its flowers can withstand temperatures as low as -3ºС.

But still, in early spring (sudden cold snaps are possible at this time), in the evenings, if there is a possibility of severe frosts, place basins of water under the bushes. The water will “entice” the cold, protecting the plantings.

• Many experienced gardeners throw pieces of fabric or film over the plants, cover the plantings with newspapers or any available material for insulation.

In any case, it is better not to plant red currants in low-lying areas, as this is where cold air masses stagnate and accumulate.

Diseases and pests of red currant

This culture is very resistant to insects and diseases. But still, she does not have 100% immunity, which is why it is so important to know how to identify diseases and pests and how to deal with them.

Diseases

• Anthracnose . Symptoms include the appearance of brown spots on the leaves, over which tubercles subsequently form. Over time, currant leaves become deformed and begin to fall off. A solution of copper sulfate, which is sprayed not only on the plant, but also on the ground near the bush, helps to cope with the disease. It is necessary to treat in this way until the buds open. But it is better to take effective preventive measures - spray the bush with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture once every 2 weeks after flowering.
• Glass rust . Reddish spots appear on the leaves; fungal spores are located inside. Berries and leaves affected by rust should be burned, and the bushes should be treated with suitable fungicidal agents (Fitosporin-M is suitable).
• Septoria . Appears as brown spots with dark spores in the middle. In this case, you need to remove the affected leaves and treat the bushes with preparations that contain copper (it is best to choose copper sulfate), but fungicides are also suitable. To avoid infection, spray the bushes with copper sulfate several times before flowering.
• Powdery mildew (spheroteca) . The causative agent of the disease is a fungus. The main symptoms include:
• a light coating forms on the plant, which darkens over time;

leaves and berries fall;

• the bush slows down in development.

As a treatment, spray the affected bushes with fungicides. It is better to use Alirin-B and Baktofit. All damaged shoots must be burned to prevent the disease from spreading further throughout the garden.

Damage to leaves and berries by anthracnose

Manifestation of goblet rust on a currant leaf

Damage to a bush by septoria

Powdery mildew (spheroteka)

Pests

Most often, currants are affected by:

• narrow-bodied borer;
• bud moth.

If we talk about the narrow-bodied borer, then it is the larvae that cause damage to the bushes - they gnaw the shoots, trying to make tunnels in them. The insects themselves appear around June, laying eggs in the shoots. The affected branches die over time, the berries become smaller and become stunted.

To avoid the death of red currants, during spring preparation you need to cut off underdeveloped shoots and burn them. When pests appear, they must be destroyed. It is also better to treat the bushes with Actellik solution 20-25 days after flowering.

Bud moth caterpillars settle at the base of the bush. If the fight is not started in time, plant productivity will decrease, and the bushes themselves will begin to wither. To combat this insect, you need to treat the bushes with Nitrophen, Karbofos or another insecticide during the period of swelling of the buds.

Reviews from gardeners

★★★★★
Alla, 51 years old, teacher, Kemerovo. For the first time this year I decided to plant red currants - I heard that they are not as demanding to care for as black ones.
The varieties “Victoria” and “Rondom” were selected. I’ll say right away that I’m a beginner gardener, I didn’t know a lot of things, but nevertheless I harvested a small harvest and was even able to freeze some berries. I covered the bushes for the winter, so I hope to harvest next year too. ★★★★★
Sergey, 63 years old, pensioner, Krasnodar. Red currant is my favorite berry.
Firstly, it is very easy to care for it, especially in our area where there are no cold winters. I planted bushes of the “Buzhansky” variety 5 years ago and still consistently harvest at least a bucket of berries from each plant every year. Hide

Add your review

Red currants are the choice of many novice gardeners, since this plant requires a minimum of effort and time, but at the same time allows you to harvest good harvests. In order for the plant to bear fruit well, it is only important to properly prepare the place for planting and in the future do not forget to water and regularly feed the crop.

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We will provide moisture

Proper watering of red currants is the key to a rich harvest. Although the red-eyed beauty is not as demanding of moisture as blackcurrant species, a lack of water has a bad effect on the growth of pets, their development and fruiting.

• Usually, each redcurrant bush needs 2-3 waterings throughout the summer (moistening the soil up to half a meter). To find out if the plant needs water, dig the soil under the bushes. If the soil at the bottom is dry, watering is needed.

When growing currants, young bushes especially need to drink; during the dry summer season, they need to be watered more often.

Currants urgently need watering during the formation and growth of berries and shoots (this is the month of June). The plant also needs plenty of water after harvesting (August-September).

♦ Watering rate. For each currant bush you need to spend from 35 to 40 liters of water (2-3 buckets). Additionally, in the evening, you can spray the leaves with water from a spray bottle.