Elegant and prolific columnar apricot: popular varieties and cultivation characteristics

For many years in Russia, tasty apricots were grown only in regions with a warm climate. Thanks to the intensive work of scientists, columnar apricot can be found in modern summer cottages in the Moscow region. The fruits of this tree are no different from the usual varieties that are cultivated in the southern regions of Russia. Their juicy pulp, pleasant aroma and standard size evoke a lot of positive emotions. In addition, the tree occupies a small area on the garden plot, which gives the garden an unusual look. What are these cute fruit beauties? Let's get to know them better.

Description, external features

The tree of a new variety of apricot has an interesting column-like shape.
Short branches extend from the straight trunk, the length of which does not exceed 20 cm. In the south, the height of the plant reaches 3 meters; in the middle zone the trees are slightly lower. White or pink buds bloom on them in early spring - at the end of March or April. The leaves, regardless of shape, point upward. Orange, red or yellow apricots ripen on the side branches. The weight of the fruit depends on the variety, on the conditions of cultivation and care, on average it weighs 20 g, some specimens reach 80 or even 100 grams, but there are also very small berries. Summer residents are happy to plant columnar apricots, since the tree needs no more than a square meter of area to grow and bear fruit. The advantages of the varieties include:

1. Possibility of canning fruits for the winter.
2. Good yield.
3. Interesting appearance of the plant.

The fruits appear in the third year, picking them is easy and convenient. Columnar apricots are immune to many diseases of garden trees. However, not all summer residents know how to form a crown, that the plant needs to be pruned every year, without this the crop does not develop normally, and few fruits ripen.

Low-growing apricot varieties

Compact, low varieties of apricots are valued by many precisely for their size, which allows them to harvest without the use of special equipment. In addition, these trees take up much less space in the garden, which is important in conditions of limited space.

Low-growing varieties of apricots usually include those whose height does not exceed 2.5 m. This height allows you to reach the top branches from the ground without the help of stepladders and stands. Low-growing apricots include:

• Snowfinch.
• Cup.
• Black mouse.

Their compact shape and small size make it possible to completely cover the tree for the winter, so they can be grown even in areas with an unfavorable climate.

Diseases and pests

Bacterial burn

Signs: the burn appears on all parts of the plant. Sores appear, from which gum begins to leak.

Fighting methods:

1. Cut off and burn the affected areas of the tree, and smear the sections with garden varnish.
2. Treat with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture with the addition of copper sulfate.
3. After harvesting, treat the apricot with Bordeaux mixture (3%)

Clusterosporiosis
Signs: leaves become covered with brown spots, after which tissue begins to die.

Fighting methods:

1. Trim affected branches and leaves immediately.
2. Treat the plant with copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture

Valsa mushroom
Signs:

Orange nodes grow in the bark and branches. The leaves turn yellow and wither.

Fighting methods:

1. It is not advisable to prune apricots during the dormant period.
2. For better air flow to the roots of the tree, the soil is treated with a fungicidal spray.

Aphids
Signs: miniature insects that settle on the back of leaves.

Fighting methods:

1. The wood is treated with copper preparations.
2. Treat with Holister

Leaf roller
Signs: the pest of apricot is the leaf roller caterpillar. In the summer they wrap themselves in leaves and prepare to reproduce.

Fighting methods:

1. The plant is treated with Entobacterin, Inta-Vir (0.5%).
2. Fufanon is effective

Variety selection criteria

The weather in the Moscow region can be described in one word - unstable. Winter here is long, with frosts followed by sharp thaws. Sudden frosts may occur in spring. Therefore, it is worth taking a responsible approach to choosing a successful variety of self-pollinating apricot for Moscow and the Moscow region.

So, an apricot seedling must have winter hardiness. The main signs of frost tolerance include:

• the plant can withstand increasing air temperature drops down to -30 degrees;
• kidneys have little sensitivity to cold;
• how soon after warming the growth of a seedling and the appearance of ovaries on it awakens;
• During frost, the buds remain unharmed.

Since the Moscow region is vast, planting apricots is most successful in the south or southwest. Gentle southern and southwestern slopes near Moscow are also suitable. The area for planting seedlings should be illuminated by the sun. Equally important is protection from north winds and high humidity.

It’s worth knowing: successful varieties of apricot seedlings for the Moscow region are those that have increased resistance to sudden cold snaps and sudden changes in weather.

If we talk about the land where pears, plums, ash and maple trees grow, then the environment here is favorable for apricot seedlings. A tree that has reached a height of 1.2 meters must be grafted to protect the bark from becoming warm.

Another indicator of a successful variety for Moscow is self-fertility. An important selection criterion is if the tree can be pollinated by its own pollen or by seedlings planted nearby that belong to the same variety. Varietal trees are obtained in the only way - by grafting. This fruit cannot reproduce by cuttings.

The best varieties of columnar apricot

Scientists did not stop at breeding just one hybrid of a garden crop, but created several varieties that differ in ripening time, color and weight of fruits, recommended by the region for cultivation. The best varieties of apricots for the middle zone should be chosen among columnar trees that are not afraid of cold winters and are easily located in a small area.

To avoid taking up space with pollinating plants, you need to plant self-fertile hybrids. Perfect for the Moscow region:

1. Gold;
2. Star;
3. Sunny.

The fruits of the Prince Mart variety ripen by the end of July and are already set on two-year-old trees. Apricot tolerates severe frosts, is rarely susceptible to disease, and does not require additional pollination. Three or four plants will provide enough fruit for a family to eat and preserve for the winter. In the northern regions, the variety can be planted in greenhouses, since the height of the tree barely reaches 2 meters. The bright orange fruits weigh about 60 g.

Summer residents and gardeners in the Moscow region are happy to grow the self-fertile Zvezdny apricot, which delights with its yield.

Although the fruits ripen quite late, a whole bucket of juicy and sweet fruits are harvested from one compact plant, differing in:

• yellow color;
• pulp with a pleasant aroma;
• thin skin;
• weighing about 80 grams.

Trees of the Gold variety more than 2 meters high do not die at 33-34 °C below zero. In August, oval-shaped apricots with an unusual pinkish blush ripen. The productive Sunny variety is cultivated in mid-latitudes. It tolerates low temperatures and does not freeze at minus 35 degrees. The golden fruits ripen in August and weigh up to 60 grams, but pollinating plants need to be planted next to the apricot.

The height of the tree is about 2.5 m, but up to 1.5 buckets of fruit are collected from it. Sunny also takes root in partial shade, but the yield in such a place drops significantly. In Kuban, where the climate is favorable and the soil is fertile, any variety of stone fruit crops is grown.

Winter-hardy apricot varieties

Apricots from this list are characterized by increased resistance to low temperatures. Moreover, not only the trees themselves are frost-resistant, but also their buds, which are often more prone to freezing.

Among the winter-hardy varieties, the following varieties can be distinguished:

• Cupid hybrid
• Bai
• Hardy.
• Innokentyevsky.
• Red-cheeked.
• Darling.
• Honey.
• Monastic.
• Partisan highland.
• Russian.
• Snigirek.
• Spassky.
• Triumph Northern.
• Ussuri

Of this list, the Red-cheeked apricot is the most famous and long-cultivated variety. More than 70 years have passed since its breeding, and it still enjoys the love and respect of gardeners.

The following hybrids were bred on the basis of Red-cheeked:

• Red-cheeked Salgirsky.
• Son of Red-cheeked.
• Nikitsky.
• Nikolaevsky.

Partisan alpine is the most frost-resistant variety known, its winter hardiness is -50 degrees Celsius.

Features of planting columnar apricots

• The place for planting apricots must be prepared individually for each seedling so that all the roots fit freely in the hole;
• Before planting, you need to add a little potassium or fertilizer, mixing them with the ground;
• It is necessary to take into account that then the earth may settle slightly, which is why the tree will begin to grow unevenly, and water may be washed out when watering;
• Despite the fact that the crowns of columnar trees allow them to be planted closer to each other, the distance between seedlings should be at least a meter.

Further care for apricots is quite simple. It is better to fertilize three times during the growing season - commercial fertilizer, slurry, and chicken droppings will do. It is better to fertilize flowers from seedlings in the first year, immediately pluck all excess branches and periodically carry out preventive spraying against pests.

If it is not possible to purchase specialized products, then those designed for apple trees are also suitable - this will help keep the tree healthy.

In addition, it is especially important to prune the branches, otherwise the crown of the apricot will turn from a columnar one into a regular spreading one, only the fruits on the branches will be arranged in a special way, resembling a column.

Mid-season varieties

Everyone is used to enjoying such fruits in the second half of summer. If you don’t want to break this tradition, then you should read the description of the following varieties, and then decide whether it’s worth growing them on your plot.

Red-cheeked

The first fruits appear 3-4 years after planting. Each apricot weighs approximately 50 g, with a golden, thin skin. Thanks to this, they make excellent preserves and marmalades. Fresh fruits can be stored for 5-7 days. The red-cheeked variety is not only winter-hardy, but also tolerant of droughts. But if the trees are not watered, the harvest will become smaller. It is also recommended to cover the apricot for the winter, even if the winter is mild.

Dessert

As the name already implies, such apricots differ in taste. Like the previous species, the dessert one belongs to the category of tall trees. The average height of an adult plant is 4-5 m. Fruiting occurs by the middle of the first summer month. It tolerates winter frosts well, so it is easy to find in the northern regions.

Khabarovsk

The ancestor is the Red-cheeked variety. The average weight of the fruit is 40-45 g. A distinctive feature is the presence of a deep seam on the fruit. The pulp is quite dense, which allows for good preservation. This variety begins to bear fruit relatively late - at 4-5 years of growth. The fruits on the trees fully ripen by August.

In winter, it is recommended to wrap the plants, as they tolerate only mild frosts well. But such problems as moniliosis, clasterosporiasis and codling moth are absolutely not terrible for the Khabarovsk species.

In addition to the above varieties, mid-season varieties include Polessky large-fruited, Michurinets, and Nadezhny. Therefore, before planting apricots in the Moscow region, you should decide on the desired species.

Features of planting columnar apricots

Both apricots and hybrids bred through selection are demanding of light and love the sun. In the absence of such conditions, if fruits are set, they will be in small quantities, and the taste will sharply deteriorate. Trees bloom very poorly in the shade.

You don’t need a lot of space for a columnar apricot, so you can always find a small area where the cold wind does not hit and there are no drafts. It is easy to plant a tree between buildings at a distance of 20-15 centimeters from them, but so that no shadow falls on it. Apricots should not be placed in lowlands, where both melt and rainwater stagnate and cool and humid air accumulates. The tree will be comfortable if you find a place for it at the foot of a gentle slope.

In the southern regions, columnar apricots are planted in open ground in both October and April. In the fall, it manages to take root and get stronger before the cold weather arrives no earlier than December. In the middle zone, trees are planted only at the end of spring or in the first month of summer, since frosts are a frequent occurrence here, and the hydrometeorological center is not able to predict when they will come.

Apricots develop poorly and often get sick in the place where they used to grow:

1. tomatoes and peppers;
2. raspberries and strawberries;
3. potatoes and eggplants.

Such crops are attacked by helicopters and infect fruit trees with fungi. It is very difficult to cope with the pathogen. Apricot seedlings, preferably 2-year-old ones, are placed at a distance of 80 cm-1 m, leaving at least a meter between rows. Trees take root well on loose soils, permeable to moisture, and grow on loams, gray soils and chernozems.

It is advisable to buy seedlings in special nurseries that are located in your area, since the apricots that they sell are adapted specifically to this climate. The height of the tree should be within a meter. It is necessary to check whether the roots bend, whether the seedlings have healthy bark, and whether there is a trace of grafting. You should not buy apricots grown from the seed.

The hole for the tree is prepared in the fall. Both its depth and width should be within 60-70 cm. To prevent the water from turning sour, expanded clay or small crushed stone is poured onto the bottom in a 40 mm layer, after which wood ash or mineral fertilizers in the form of urea, superphosphate or potassium nitrate are added.

The top layer of earth is mixed with humus and sand, placed at the bottom of the hole, a support for the tree is installed nearby and covered, and in the spring:

1. Make a hole in which the apricot is planted vertically.
2. Pour and compact the soil, leaving a root neck of about 5 cm above the surface.
3. A furrow is made along the tree trunk, sprinkled with peat or straw.
4. The tree is attached to a support and watered with 2 buckets of warm water.

In order for the columnar plant to take root faster, the roots are soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate or a biostimulant, after which they are shortened a little and dipped in mash made from clay and manure.

What you need to know about planting varieties

"Prince" is usually planted in winter or early spring. In regions with a mild climate, planting in the autumn season is acceptable. Other important aspects of growing the Prince March variety will be discussed later in the review.

How to choose a place to plant Prince March apricots

Successfully establishing young fruit trees in your garden must begin with choosing the right planting site. You need to make sure that you are creating a quality foundation for the future plant.

Apricots bloom in early spring. And since late spring frosts are a problem for the tree, “Prince” is not recommended to be planted at higher elevations. Frost can kill flowers on a tree and almost completely deprive you of your harvest.

In addition, if you plant an apricot in the fall, then winter can be a tough test for the plant. Low temperatures can seriously damage wood.

Plant the tree at a distance of 15 cm from the wall or fence. Avoid areas where eggplants, tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, raspberries and strawberries have previously been grown. All of these crops can spread Verticillium wilt.

Apricot also requires a lot of heat during the summer season. When planting apricots, choose a sunny location .

Preparing the planting hole

The planting hole should be of such a size that the roots fit freely in it. The hole should not only be deep, but also wide enough to accommodate the root system even when spread out. Collect the excavated layer of earth into a separate pile.

How to prune correctly

One of the features of apricots and all stone fruits is the high activity of the buds - almost all those that hatch begin to grow. Moreover, the fruits are formed mainly on branches that grew last year, or on bouquet branches, spurs and other fruit formations. Their lifespan is usually about three years.

As a tree ages, its growth processes are inhibited. Flower buds are formed only on short shoots, and at the end of fruiting these branches become bare. And because of the short life of bouquet branches, older branches also become bare. Therefore, adult apricots need to maintain growth processes, and this is what you need to focus on when pruning.

Pruning a columnar apricot is a very important point. It is best to stick to the tiered form (see photo), highlighting 5-6 main branches and leaving about 40 cm of distance between them. Correction of the crown shape begins in the first year of the plant’s life.

• If, when planting in spring, the seedling has no branches, it is cut off at a height of 80-90 cm.
• If there are lateral branches, then two of them are left, if possible those directed along the row, and shortened by half.
• All other branches are cut into a ring. The length of the central conductor should be cut 20-25 cm longer than the rest of the branches.

In summer, all competitive shoots that form at an acute angle are removed. In subsequent years, 3-4 more main branches are selected and pruned, on which branches will then form. The recommended distance between them is 35-40 cm.

To form a beautiful crown, you need to ensure that the upper shoots do not overtake the lower ones. If there are excess shoots, they can be shortened by turning them into fruit branches.

Once the desired crown shape is achieved, all that remains is to maintain it. To do this, you need to maintain the active growth of shoots by pruning them by shortening them by a third (if the branching of this variety is good) or by half. If the tree grows very quickly, additional pruning can be done in the summer, shortening the shoots by half or a quarter, depending on the intensity of growth.

Harvest and storage

Immediately before harvesting, apricots must be fully ripened on the tree . Some varieties may take 2-3 weeks to ripen. Therefore, you can divide the process into 2 stages, and remove the fruit from the tree as it ripens.

It is easy to visually determine ripeness: the green fruits at the technical stage acquire an increasingly rich shade and become golden, orange or reddish, depending on the variety. If you plan to sell them, then harvest them slightly unripe to increase the shelf life of the fruit. Those that are damaged, set aside and consume first.

Impacted fruits quickly soften and spoil. Try to remove them carefully, without damaging the peel or hitting them.

Optimal storage conditions are a basement or any place with a temperature of 0...+5°C. A small amount can be placed in the refrigerator and they will keep there for about a month. The rest is processed for winter preparations, frozen or made into dried fruits.

Columnar apricots are a great modern solution for your garden. By planting several different varieties, you will get a more varied harvest of fruit, quite sufficient for fresh consumption and for winter storage. It is very easy to care for such trees, and harvesting is much more convenient than from their tall relatives. So if you're looking for something new, check out this new type of tree.

Columnar apricot - external features

The name of this fruit plant indicates the unusual shape of the tree, resembling a slender column. Many side branches extend from it, the average length of which is approximately 20 cm. Depending on climatic conditions, the tree can grow up to 3 meters, but this is only in the southern regions. Varieties of columnar apricots for the Moscow region grow up to 2 m in height, but this does not prevent them from bearing fruit abundantly.

In the first half of April, pinkish or snow-white inflorescences appear on the plant. And a little later it is dressed in oval or heart-shaped foliage. Each of them has a pointed tip, which is typical for this type of fruit tree.

Columnar apricot bears fruit in the second half of the hot summer. A lot of juicy fruits appear on elastic branches, weighing about 20 g. Some giants reach 100 g. They are mainly painted in the following colors:

• yellow;
• orange;
• red-orange.

A seed is “stored” inside the fruit, the core of which is also eaten. Some cooks add it to apricot jam to give it a piquant taste.

The bud, which is located at the top of the tree, is considered the most vulnerable point of the plant. If it suffers from frost or dies for some reason, the tree will produce vertical shoots. This leads to a violation of the unique integrity of the plant form.

To stimulate fruiting, gardeners regularly prune columnar apricots. In early spring or late autumn, they remove old branches and also shorten young shoots. The maximum length should be no more than 20 cm.

If this procedure is not done in time, the tree will lose its original shape. As a result, fruits will form only at the base of the side branches. By following this simple rule, you can enjoy an abundance of delicious fruits from an unusual tree every year.

Systematization of apricot varieties by fruit color

Most apricot fruits are bright yellow or orange. However, other colors are also found, such as white, red and black.

Black apricot varieties

Dark-colored hybrids appeared as a result of cross-pollination of apricot and cherry plum growing nearby. Such trees have fruits of a dark purple or dark lilac color, and they have a very weak velvety characteristic of ordinary apricots.

The most famous varieties of black apricot are:

• Black Prince.
• Black velvet.
• Melitopol.
• Korenevsky.
• Little mouse.
• Lugansk.

Gardeners are almost unanimous in the opinion that ripe black apricots in fresh form are inferior to classic apricots in taste and aroma, but when canned they are significantly superior to them.

Red-fruited apricots

Red-fruited varieties are usually called varieties in which a bright red blush occupies most of the fruit. These include the following apricots:

• Red partisan.
• Red-cheeked late.
• Nakhichevan red.
• Nowrast is red.
• Russian-Bulgarian.

Most of these varieties are suitable for cultivation only in areas with a warm climate, because due to the abundance of sun, this characteristic “blush” is formed on the fruits.

Care

Watering

When watering, remember that overmoistening the apricot roots can lead to their rotting. In moderate weather, watering once every 2 weeks will be sufficient for one tree. During summer drought it is necessary to water more often. One tree requires 30 liters of lukewarm, settled water. Water apricots early in the morning or late in the evening.

1.5 months after harvesting, before the onset of frost, each tree is watered abundantly, and then watering is stopped until spring.

Top dressing

For the first 2-3 seasons after planting, the apricot is not fed; it only needs the fertilizers that were mixed into the planting hole.

Immediately after thawing, the soil is carefully loosened, during which urea or ammonium sulfate is added. Every 2 years, 12-15 liters of humus are added.

Next, minerals and organic matter are alternated in the form of a solution of chicken manure, cow manure, and crushed herbs. Fertilizers are applied once every 5-6 weeks throughout the growing season.

After fruiting is completed, just before sheltering for the winter, wood ash is added.

Trimming

In order for the tree to maintain its columnar shape, it needs annual competent pruning. After dismantling the winter shelter, sanitary pruning is carried out, broken and frozen shoots are removed.

In spring and autumn, when the ambient temperature is zero, formative pruning is performed. To do this, remove all branches at a height of 40-45 cm from below. The shoots are pruned, leaving 12-17 cm and a distance between them along the trunk of 15 cm.

Diseases and pests

Since columnar apricots have high immunity to diseases, it is enough to take preventive measures three times a season. Spray with 3% copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture.

To repel pests, it is enough to plant strong-smelling plants next to apricots - onions, garlic, nasturtium, rosemary and others. To repel rodents, the lower part of the trunk is whitened.

Wintering

Despite the high frost resistance of columnar apricots, in winter, especially in more severe climates, they require shelter. It is necessary to mulch the root zone with a thick layer of mulch with a mound near the trunk. Build something like a hut around the tree from scrap materials, and wrap the frame with covering material. In the spring, the shelter is dismantled.

Agrotechnics of cultivation and care

To get a high yield, you need to plant a tree in accordance with the requirements in which it can grow: a specific climate zone, lighting, moisture, fertilizing. The required daylight hours are at least 6 hours. The soil must be well drained and nutritious.

Important! Columnar cherries, apricots, nectarines and apples can grow well in containers. But when planting, make sure that the soil does not drain moisture too quickly, otherwise the tree will suffer from drought.

Landing dates

Plan planting for early spring . As soon as the threat of frost has passed and the thermometer shows stable above-zero temperatures, you can begin. If the plants are not planted from containers into open ground, then the timing does not matter.

For the winter, such a plant is transferred to an unheated barn, and it will overwinter well. And in the spring it will simply be installed in its place in the garden.

Choosing a location and preparing a pit

When planting in the ground, a distance of 1 m is maintained between plants. The minimum is 0.6 m. Columnar trees provide almost no shade and do not interfere with each other, so they do not need large areas.

The sunny area chosen for the apricot needs to be dug well. Loosening depth is up to 40 cm. This way you will weaken the soil, creating more comfortable conditions for the development of the root system and destroying pests. Remove weeds and stones from the area.

Prepare the planting hole . Its depth will be 40 cm, and its width will be 20 cm larger than the size of the root ball of your seedling. If the soil is not drained enough, then you need to dilute the soil removed from the hole with sand and organic fertilizers. For this purpose, humus, rotted manure or other organic matter is used. The proportion is 1:1. Add 20–30% sand there if the soil is heavy and clayey.

Important! When planting in containers, do not use pure compost as it dries out too quickly. Be sure to make sure the soil is moderately drainable.

Plant trees in rows. This planting method is the most compact. If the variety needs a pollinator tree, then prepare 2 holes for planting. Depth - about 0.4–0.5 m. Width - slightly larger than the diameter of the root ball.

It could be: stones, pebbles. Part of the prepared soil mixture is placed on its surface. Pour 50 g of superphosphate and 40 g of potassium fertilizer into the pit. Then they install the tree, add some more soil, pour in 1 bucket of water and add the remaining soil. Compact the soil to prevent the formation of air pockets.

Watering frequency

Watering is very important for fruits to gain weight. Since the root system of columnar varieties is much smaller than that of ordinary varieties, they need irrigation more often: about 2-3 times a week. Watering rate is 1 bucket of water for a seedling. An adult tree does not need irrigation so often - once a week is enough. Watering depth - up to 0.8 m.

Be sure to lay drainage at the bottom with a layer depth of up to 20 cm.

Irrigation should begin in the spring and end in the fall after harvesting. It is recommended to pay attention to the condition of the soil and not allow it to dry out.

Fertilizer application

Columnar varieties are fertilized more often than ordinary trees. The small root system is located in a limited space and cannot reach nutrients outside its boundaries.

The tree will need:

• nitrogen;
• phosphorus;
• potassium.

Nitrogen is responsible for vegetation and leaf formation. But its excess is harmful. Application rate: 9 kg/0.5 ha. After the fruits are formed, there should be less of it than other substances.

Potassium is necessary for the development of the root system and ensuring cellular processes in plant tissues. From spring to autumn you need 20 kg/0.5 ha. It is advisable to apply phosphorus fertilizers in the same amount.

Phosphorus is involved in the formation of fruits, but is absorbed from the soil very slowly . No matter how much is added, no more than 30% is absorbed in a year. Divide the fertilizer into equal parts and apply from early spring to mid-summer. Usually 3 feedings are done: before the buds open, in the budding phase and during fruit formation.

Find out in more detail why the apricot tree does not bear fruit.

Pest and disease control

Typically, diseases do not cause trees to die, but they do reduce yields and weaken plants. Therefore, the farmer is advised to be careful and treat them on time.

For a columnar apricot, any damage to the trunk will be dangerous: due to bad weather, damage by frost or animals. Constantly wet soil can also cause disease. Therefore, a container with wood must have drainage holes. And when planting on a site, be sure to ensure good drainage.

In winter, the soil in the container can freeze and damage the roots. To prevent this from happening, it is insulated with polystyrene foam, straw or other materials. Small fruit branches can also be damaged by frost.

Therefore, it is recommended to pay attention to what temperatures a particular variety can tolerate and whether it can grow in your climate zone. The trunk may suffer from changes in day and night winter temperatures. To prevent it from freezing, it needs to be whitened. White color reflects the sun's rays.

Mice are a serious pest of columnar trees. The most serious pest is sawflies. They create scars on the fruits and damage the ovaries. To combat insects, spraying with Karbofos before flowering is suitable.

Install a metal mesh around the trunk for the winter to prevent rodents from damaging the trunk.

Most fungal spores overwinter in the soil or in the bark of trees. They can cause retarded development and death of the tree. To combat fungal diseases, trees are sprayed with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture until the buds open. If the summer is rainy, then the treatment is repeated every 3 weeks.

Scheme for pruning columnar apricot

When winter comes to an end, trees are pruned. All cuts must be made with a clean, disinfected instrument. For disinfection, you can use either alcohol or a regular aqueous solution with bleach. This is necessary so as not to transfer microorganisms and diseases from diseased trees to healthy ones.

Pruning is important for any type of tree . It stimulates the formation of new shoots and fruiting. If you are surprised by the need for apricot to be pruned, then do not take the word “columnar” literally, as a tree that cannot grow side branches. In terms of their growth habits, such species are closer to poplar - they have several vertical shoots directed straight upward. How to trim?

It's very simple, following these simple rules:

1. Remove all branches that grow below 60 cm from the ground.
2. Shorten all side branches to 15 or 20 cm. This is enough to support the weight of even large fruits.
3. Don't delete any branch completely. Leave at least 5 cm.

Important! Be sure to treat the cut areas with garden varnish to prevent pathogenic microorganisms: fungi and viruses from getting inside the tree.

Popular varieties of columnar apricot

Prince March

Sometimes this variety is simply called Prince. It is famous for its increased productivity and frost resistance; it can be cultivated in the Urals and Siberia. It is self-fertile, which is a big advantage - there is no need to plant other apricot trees nearby. The Prince blooms in early spring, when pollinating insects are not yet active.

The fruits are bright orange in color, with a crimson blush and dark specks on the sunflower side, suede-like to the touch. The weight of one fruit is about 30-60 g, the flesh is bright yellow, juicy, sweet, with a honey taste and barely noticeable sourness. The stone separates well, the pulp does not boil over when preparing jam and compote.

The tree reaches a maximum height of 2 m. It begins to bear fruit at 2-3 years. The yield is stable, apricots ripen in early August. This variety has good immunity to diseases and pests.

Star

The variety is famous for its large fruit. Often the weight of one fruit is 60 g, but there are also giants weighing up to 100 g. The variety is self-pollinating, high-yielding, blooms in late April - early May, when the danger of return frosts has already passed.

The fruits ripen in the second half of August. They are yellow-orange in color, with a crimson blush, have thin skin, pale yellow, not too juicy flesh with a pleasant aroma and excellent taste.

Up to 10 kg of crop is harvested from one tree. The variety is frost-resistant and can tolerate temperatures down to -30 degrees. The tree grows up to 2 m in height and begins to bear fruit in the third season of life. The variety has high immunity against diseases and pests.

Gold

Sometimes it is simply called Gold. The variety is famous for its early ripening - in the last days of July. Its other advantages are self-fertility and frost resistance (down to -35 degrees below zero). The tree grows to a height of 2.2-2.5 m. It produces a harvest of up to 8-10 kg per plant. The flowering period begins in April and lasts 2 weeks.

The fruits are slightly oblong in shape, weighing 50-55 g. The skin is almost smooth, yellow in color, with blurry pink and scarlet spots. The pulp is orange, juicy, with a pleasant taste and aroma.

This variety loves sunny and warm places, but does not tolerate areas with too moist soil; its roots easily rot.

Sunny

This variety is characterized by extended fruiting periods - the fruits ripen throughout August. The variety grows well in lightly shaded areas, but in full shade its yield and taste suffer. It has high frost resistance and easily tolerates frosts of -32-35 degrees.

The fruits have a bright orange skin, suede-like to the touch and with a bright blush on the sunflower side. The pulp is sweet and juicy, the weight of one fruit is 40-60 g, 15-17 kg of apricots are obtained from one tree.

This variety is not self-fertile, so next to it you need to plant 2-3 more apricot trees, which will bloom in the same period - in the second ten days of April.

Self-fertile apricot varieties

Self-fertility, or the ability to self-pollinate, is a very important quality of apricots, especially for cultivation in the northern regions. Apricot blooms quite early (late April - early May), and most insects that pollinate the plants are inactive at this time.

Among the many varieties of apricots, there are both self-fertile and self-sterile. Self-fertile varieties include:

• Pineapple.
• Hardy.
• Dessert.
• Red-cheeked.
• Lel.
• Melitopol early.
• Rattle.
• Sardonyx.
• Snowfinch.
• Northern Triumph.
• Tsarsky.

Self-fertile plants do not pollinate 100% of their flowers. It must be remembered that the presence of pollinating neighbors in such trees can increase the yield by 2–3 times.

Landing

1. If the seedlings were purchased with closed roots, then 2 hours before planting they must be watered, and then carefully remove the seedling from the container along with the earthen lump.
2. If the seedlings have bare roots, then about 24 hours before planting, soak the roots in a solution of any growth stimulant. Next, you should inspect the roots, remove rotten and damaged ones, and soak them in a clay mash.
3. The substrate at the bottom of the pit is moistened before planting, and the seedling is placed in the center of the pit. If the roots were in a coma of earth, then dig a hole in the center of the mound and place the seedling in it. If the roots were open, then place the seedling on a mound in the hole and straighten the roots.
4. Cover the seedling with soil layer by layer, compacting the soil each time so that there are no air voids left. The root collar should be 5-7 cm above the ground surface.
5. A circular groove is formed at a distance of 40 cm from the trunk. Water the seedling with lukewarm, settled water, 22-27 liters per tree.
6. After about half an hour, mulch the root zone with peat chips, fresh hay, and humus. Tie the seedling to a peg.

Features of growing apricots in the Moscow region

Caring for apricots in the Moscow region has its own nuances - this is due to the climate of the region. Therefore, we remember the following recommendations:

• when spring planting is carried out, a place is chosen for the seedling where it is as warm as possible and has a lot of sunlight;
• when planting several apricots, use a 6 by 4 square pattern, where the first number means the row step, and the second number means the step in the row;
• the optimal parameters of the hole for a seedling are 70 x 70 x 70 cm;
• Apricots in a new place are watered every 2 weeks.

If the question of where it is best to plant an apricot on the site has been resolved and the tree has taken root, then from the second year they begin to spray it with pest control agents and feed it with fertilizers. But each variety requires its own protection and feeding. Therefore, in order to avoid problems, even at the time of purchase, you should ask the seller about this issue. And then, within a couple of years, there will be a plate of delicious and tender fruit on the table.

Characteristics

Variety "Prince Mart"

"Prince Mart" is a variety most suitable for growing in northern conditions. Has positive reviews.

1. Winter hardiness is one of the main criteria for choosing plants for planting in Russian conditions. According to this criterion, “Prince Mart” is rated highly: it can withstand temperatures down to -35OC.
2. The variety shows excellent resistance to infections and diseases.
3. With proper care, the first harvests can be harvested already in the second year after planting. The harvest ripens in August. The fruits are orange in color with a beautiful blush on the sunny side. Average weight is from 30 to 60 g. The seeds are easily separated.
4. “Prince Mart” is a short tree up to 2 m. Due to its relative unpretentiousness, the variety is recommended for growing by beginning gardeners.

Variety "Star"

“Zvezdny” is the second popular variety of columnar apricot in Russia and Ukraine. Its characteristics are not inferior to the Prince Mart variety.

1. High resistance to frost (up to -30°C) and various types of diseases.
2. Fruiting begins in the third year after planting.
3. The trait that makes 'Star' special is the size of its fruit. They are very large, their average weight is from 40 to 100 g. The skin is painted bright yellow. The pulp is aromatic and juicy. The fruits benefit from their taste and versatility of use.
4. Needs good and proper care.

Characteristics of apricot varieties

The classification of apricot varieties is rather arbitrary. However, they are divided according to several criteria. The following groups are distinguished by height and type of tree:

• short (up to 3 m);
• medium height (3–6 m);
• tall (over 6 m);
• columnar.

Apricots are also classified into several groups according to their ripening time:

• early (late June – early July);
• mid-early (July 05–15);
• mid-late (July 15–25);
• later (later July 25).

It should be noted that the classification of apricots according to ripening dates may not be the same in different regions. The same variety, depending on weather conditions, will bear fruit either earlier or later. For example, in Central Asia, apricots ripen almost a month earlier than the same varieties in Crimea.

According to the purpose of the fruit, all varieties of apricots are divided into the following:

• canteens;
• canning;
• universal;
• drying

Table varieties have low shelf life and are consumed mainly fresh. Canned varieties are more suitable than others for industrial processing, for example, for making juice, apricots in their own juice or jam. Drying varieties have increased sugar content and are used mainly for the production of dried apricots. Universal varieties can be used for any purpose.

Apricots do not have a clear classification based on the color and size of the fruit. Their color can vary from almost white to almost black. However, most varieties have bright yellow or orange fruit. The size of the fruit depends not only on the variety, but also on proper agricultural technology, weather conditions, etc. The standard division of apricot varieties by fruit size is as follows:

• very small (up to 10 g);
• small (10–20 g);
• medium (20–30 g);
• above average (31–40 g);
• large (41–60 g);
• very large (over 60 g).

Apricot is a southern plant, so the concept of frost resistance appeared only after the development of varieties suitable for cultivation in more northern regions. In the wild, there are such frost-resistant species as Manchurian apricot and Siberian apricot, and they have become the basis for the selection of cold-resistant varieties.

Columnar or regular?

Columnar fruit trees invariably attract increased attention from summer residents. Moreover, their owners never tire of listing the advantages of their pets. But one of the readers looked at the “columns” with criticism, and not unverbally.

It’s good that readers in the magazine started talking about columnar trees. The only bad thing is that there are too few such letters, because the topic is very interesting and... debatable. I remembered my enthusiasm ten years ago, when I first learned about such trees and considered this idea a life-saving find for my acres. As a careful gardener, I have collected detailed information on how to plant a garden of columnar apple trees, how to care for them and how to get really high yields of beautiful, large and tasty fruits!

By the way, it was no coincidence that I decided to start with apple trees: they bear fruit quickly, and in the new “design” they do not shade the garden, and all the work associated with caring for them can be done while standing on the ground, without having to deal with any stepladders. In general, I did not have the slightest doubt about the prospects and profitability of such an enterprise. And the desire to get down to business was so strong that I couldn’t sit still.

Reviews from gardeners

Elena, Pukhovichi district

Years go by, everything develops and now we can see and, if we wish, try to grow: columnar apple trees, pears, apricots, plums and even cherries.

Source: fermernew.by

Elena

Apricots, plants are in a vegetative state for a long time, they need the air temperature to be more than 15 degrees for two weeks for the plant to begin to bud.

Source: domicad.com.ua

Preparing for landing

In the southern regions and subtropics, columnar apricot can be planted in spring and autumn. In the northern regions, planting is carried out only in spring. Preparations for spring planting begin in the fall:

• Seedlings should not be purchased secondhand, only in nurseries and specialized stores. It is better if the seedlings are two years old; they must be carefully examined and healthy trees, 1-1.2 m high, with developed roots and a noticeable grafting site, must be selected.
• Dig a landing hole measuring 50*50*50. A drainage layer 4-5 cm thick is laid on the bottom. Crushed stone, pebbles, expanded clay, and fragments of clay shards are suitable as drainage materials.
• The top layer of soil 15-20 cm thick is mixed with an equal volume of humus or rotted compost, and half the amount of coarse river sand is added. If the soil is acidic, then add dolomite flour, slaked lime or crushed chicken egg shells. 100 g of urea, 80 g of saltpeter, 150 g of superphosphate are added there per pit. You can replace mineral fertilizers with wood ash (1.2-2 l).
• The prepared soil mixture is poured into the bottom of the hole in the form of a mound, and a peg is hammered in at a short distance from the top to support the seedling. Cover the hole with roofing felt and leave it like that until spring.

Planting seedlings and preparatory procedures

Columnar apricot, like its “classic” variety, loves warmth and sunlight. For most varieties, this is a necessary condition for regular and abundant fruiting. In the shade, fruits noticeably decrease in size, the taste suffers greatly, and yield indicators fall far short of those declared. Experience in growing columnar apricots shows that the more sunlight the tree gets, the more abundantly it blooms, and accordingly, the more fruits are produced.

Therefore, a place for the seedling needs to be chosen that is open, but at the same time protected from drafts and gusts of cold wind, to which apricot, as an originally southern crop, has a negative attitude. The dimensions of the plant allow it to be planted between buildings, in a corner near a fence, and so on. Of course, a barrier protecting a tree from the wind should not shade it. The minimum distance to it is 15 cm.

Any lowlands are absolutely not suitable for the plant. Compared to higher elevations, it is noticeably colder there due to the accumulated damp air. In the spring, melt water stands for a long time in such places, and rain water stands for a long time during the growing season. But a high hill is not an option either. Here the apricot will suffer from the wind, and in winter from the cold. Practice shows that flower buds of such plants freeze much more often and more severely. The ideal location is the lower third of a gentle slope facing west or east.

Columnar apricot can be planted in open ground both in early autumn and late spring. Gardeners living in areas with a subtropical climate can rely solely on their own preferences in this matter. Even a tree planted in the ground in the first ten days of October still has enough time to adapt to the new habitat and stock up on everything necessary for wintering before the cold weather, which will arrive no earlier than in two months.

Spring planting of columnar apricot is the only option for the rest of Russia and the vast majority of gardeners. You can even postpone this procedure to the very beginning of summer. In this case, there is some guarantee that the tree will avoid the harmful effects of return frosts. But it must be taken into account that in a plant with open leaf buds, adaptation takes longer. Planting in late summer or autumn in temperate regions is a big risk. It is almost impossible to predict exactly when the first frosts will hit this year.

It is necessary to take into account what crop grew in this area before. Bad predecessors for apricots are any nightshade (peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes), raspberries and garden strawberries. They are carriers of verticillium wilt, from which they themselves often suffer. It is almost impossible to cure a tree infected with this pathogenic fungus.

Bell peppers, like their “relatives” from the Solanaceae family, are unsuitable predecessors for apricots

Each apricot must be provided with sufficient area from which it will receive moisture and nutrients. The crown of the tree is more than compact, but a minimum of 60–80 cm is left between them (even 1 m is better). The interval between rows of plantings is 1–1.2 m. The crop is not particularly picky about the quality of the soil. The main requirement for it is good aeration and water permeability of the soil. The ideal option for apricots is light, nutritious loam or gray soil.

Columnar apricots occupy a much smaller area than ordinary ones, but even in this case it is necessary to adhere to the planting pattern

Seedlings are purchased exclusively from nurseries or stores of the appropriate profile. At fairs or by hand, under the guise of a columnar apricot, they can sell anything to a not very experienced gardener. It is advisable that the nursery be located nearby. Plants from it are much better adapted to the local climate.

As the experience of gardeners shows, two-year-old seedlings take root best and fastest in a new place. The average height of such an apricot is 1–1.2 m. A developed system of fibrous roots is required. They bend easily, do not break, and the cut fabrics are creamy beige. The bark of healthy specimens is smooth, elastic, without roughness, peeling, or spots reminiscent of mold and rot. At the base of the trunk there should be a small “influx” - the grafting site. Its absence means that the tree is grown from a seed. In the vast majority of cases, such apricots do not inherit varietal characteristics typical of the “parent”.

Seedlings of columnar apricots are purchased only from trustworthy suppliers; before purchasing, the selected specimens are carefully inspected

Preparing the pit for spring planting begins in the fall. The root system of the columnar apricot, unlike the usual one, is superficial. Therefore, a depth of 50–55 cm and approximately the same diameter will be quite sufficient. If the tree is planned to be planted at the end of summer, the hole should be ready no later than 2-3 weeks before it. The culture is extremely intolerant of stagnant water in the ground. Accordingly, a drainage layer is required. Its minimum thickness is 4–5 cm. For this you can use expanded clay, pebbles, crushed stone, and small clay shards.

Drainage at the bottom of the planting hole prevents moisture from remaining at the roots

The most fertile soil is the top 15–20 cm. It is mixed with approximately the same volume of humus or rotted compost and half as much of coarse river sand. Dolomite flour, slaked lime or chicken egg shells crushed to a powder form (200–500 g) are also added to the acidic soil. You will also need fertilizers - 80–100 g of urea, 70–80 g of potassium nitrate and 120–150 g of simple superphosphate (or half the double norm). An alternative to mineral fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus is ordinary wood ash (1.2–2 l).

Humus is a natural remedy for increasing soil fertility

The finished nutrient substrate is poured back to the bottom of the hole, forming something like a mound. A little to the side of its top, a support for the tree is secured. Its length is determined based on the height of the apricot. It should be 15–20 cm larger than it. After this, the pit is covered with roofing felt, slate, or other material that does not allow water to pass through, and is left until spring.

Wood ash is a source of potassium and phosphorus for those who prefer natural fertilizers

There is nothing complicated in the procedure of transplanting a columnar apricot seedling to a permanent place. Even an inexperienced gardener can do this. Most often, trees are sold with a closed root system, which makes the task even easier.

1. The apricot seedling is removed from the container. It will be easier to do this if you water the plant generously about half an hour before the procedure. Try, as much as possible, not to destroy the earthen ball. The substrate at the bottom of the pit also needs to be moistened.
2. At the top of the mound at the bottom of the planting hole, a depression is made, the dimensions approximately matching the lump of earth on the roots of the seedling. The plant is installed in it, giving it a strictly vertical position.
3. The hole is filled with soil, pouring it out little by little. During the process, the substrate is carefully compacted from time to time to avoid the appearance of air pockets. The main thing that needs to be constantly monitored is the location of the root collar. When the hole is filled, it should be 5-7 cm above the ground.
4. A circular groove is formed at a distance of 35–40 cm from the trunk. The tree is watered, using 22–27 liters of water heated to 28–30°C. After about 30–40 minutes, the tree trunk circle is covered with mulch (peat chips, humus, freshly cut grass, and so on). The tree is securely, but not too tightly tied to the support.

Planting a columnar apricot in the ground is not much different from a similar procedure for other fruit trees

If the root system of the seedling is open, about a day before planting, the roots are soaked in a solution of any biostimulant (to improve immunity and better survival), a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate (for disinfection and prevention of fungal diseases) or simply in soft water at room temperature. In the first case, you can use both store-bought drugs (Kornevin, Emistim-M, Epin) and folk remedies (aloe juice, honey diluted with water, succinic acid).

Mulching the tree trunk helps save time on weeding and increase the intervals between watering apricots

Then the roots are carefully examined, cutting off all dried, dead, damaged tissue. Healthy ones are simply shortened by 1.5–2 cm. After that, they are dipped in a mixture of fresh manure and powdered clay. The mass, which has a thick creamy consistency, should be allowed to dry in the open air for 4–5 hours. The seedling is placed on a mound at the bottom of the planting hole, spreading along its “slopes” those roots that are directed upwards and to the sides. As the hole is filled with earth, it is shaken periodically.

Immediately after planting, the tree needs to be watered abundantly.

Video: how to properly plant an apricot in the ground

Growing

Proper watering, processing, fertilizing and pruning are the main elements of caring for any variety of columnar apricot.

1. Waterlogging or lack of moisture are the main causes of many apricot diseases. The first mistake leads to root rot, the second to shredding of the fruit. Typically, plants are watered once every 2 weeks. During the rainy season, the amount of watering is reduced and increased during drought. Watering is carried out by drip method or surface along grooves.
2. Fertilizing allows trees to grow better, bear fruit more abundantly and improve disease resistance. Plants especially need mineral fertilizers containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
3. Prince March and other columnar apricots require regular pruning. Always remove damaged branches, as well as branches leaning close to the ground. The side branches are pruned by 5–10 cm and excess shoots that thicken are cut out. Thinning shoots improves the appearance of the tree and its productivity.

Columnar apricots (such as Prince March) require regular pruning

Features of caring for the variety

Caring for apricots of the Prince March variety is not too labor-intensive. The plant requires regular watering, proper feeding, diligent pruning and pest control.

How to water an apricot

Many problems with Prince March apricots can be associated with improper watering techniques. By watering your tree too often, you risk making it a victim of root rot. Meanwhile, insufficient watering can lead to fruit shrinkage.

Determine the moisture level in your soil. Watering is required when the soil 15 cm below the surface is barely moist. Using a putty knife or spade, dig a small hole near the plant. Place a ruler in the hole to determine at what level the soil is barely moist.

If the soil is moist at 15 cm from the surface or below, then it is time to water the plant. This usually happens once every 10 – 14 days. This schedule may be affected by factors such as rainfall, drought and other climatic conditions. If you don't want to dig up the soil, you can use a moisture meter instead.

"Prince" needs consistent watering throughout the growing season. Deep watering once a week helps the tree survive drought. For sandy soil this is usually about 30 liters of water. If the soil is clayey at the base, more water will be needed. In winter and spring, you may only need to water three or four times during each season.

Features of feeding columnar apricot, how and how to fertilize the plant

Fertilizer application is important in caring for the Prince March variety. Apricot trees of this variety need sufficient amounts of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. They are usually supplied with these beneficial substances from the soil. Apply small amounts of fertilizer three times during the growing season. Standard commercial fertilizer is suitable as fertilizing.

Important nuances when pruning

Caring for apricots includes thinning the shoots. It is best to prune the plant at the end of the winter season or early spring when new flowers begin to open. Once properly pruned, the tree will look better and produce more fruit.

Here are the necessary steps to prune your newly planted Prince March apricot:

• remove all damaged or broken shoots;
• remove all branches that are within 45 cm of the ground;
• reduce the main trunk to a height of 90 cm;
• remove excess shoots as necessary (branches that occur more often than within a 15 cm interval are considered unnecessary);
• shorten the remaining side branches by 5 - 10 cm in length.

In subsequent years, a strong tree with a solid structure will be easier to prune.

Varietal assortment

Since the columnar apricot appeared in mid-latitudes relatively recently, the assortment is not very rich, but there are species that have already become widespread. Let's consider the best varieties that are suitable for cultivation in the Moscow region.

"Star"

It has qualities important for the middle zone - frost resistance and average ripening time. Withstands winter temperatures down to -30°C. The fruits ripen in mid-August. The variety is productive and large-fruited. Golden yellow apricots can grow weighing up to 80–100 grams and have a pleasant taste and aroma.

“Star” is a self-fertile variety and does not require pollinators. With proper care, it can begin to bear fruit already in the second year after planting. Resistant to diseases, rarely affected by pests.

"Prince Mart"

One of the most popular varieties of columnar apricots. Winter-hardy, can withstand even 35-degree frost. Mid-season, the harvest can be harvested in the second half of August.

The tree of this variety is very compact, growing no higher than 2 meters, which is very convenient when caring for and collecting fruits. The variety is self-pollinating and has stable, good yields. Orange fruits with a side that is browned on the illuminated side usually grow to 40–60 grams. Apricots are very juicy and have a pleasant sweet and sour taste.

Fruiting usually begins in the third year after planting, but with careful care it is possible to get a harvest in the second year. The variety is reliable, resistant to diseases and pests.

Unique Features

The peculiarity of this apricot is its columnar shape, a column with short side branches. The height of the tree is from 2 to 3 m, depending on climatic conditions.

1. During the flowering period, apricot looks especially attractive. Its flowers are fragrant, white or pink, and they bloom in spring, in April or May.
2. Leaf shapes vary from variety to variety; their common feature is a pointed tip. The leaves bloom later than the flowers.
3. The fruits usually ripen in July-August. They are fleshy, with thick skin, usually orange or yellow in color. The weight of one fruit is from 5 to 20 grams. Sometimes there are giant apricots weighing more than 120 g. The yield is very high.
4. Thanks to its compactness and low growth, it is convenient to harvest from the tree.
5. Frost resistance and disease resistance are above average.
6. The disadvantages are associated with the capriciousness of the columnar apricot. It needs rich soil, a good climate and annual pruning, without which the tree's growth and yield will be low.

Gardening tips

We can conclude that caring for a columnar apricot is no more difficult than caring for any other fruit tree. Russian gardeners have already fallen in love with it for its ease of cultivation, the taste of juicy fruits and good yield. Moreover, many techniques that are used in caring for crops that have long been “registered” in the gardens of the middle zone are applicable to apricot.

For example, mulching can be used to retain soil moisture. Whitewashing the trunk, which has long been used on apple trees and other trees, is effective in pest control. Yes, and drugs against apple parasites are suitable for apricots.

For an overview of the columnar apricot, see the following video.

Plant characteristics

Description

At first glance, a columnar tree looks like a single trunk on which fruits grow without branches. But if you take a closer look, you can see that there are still branches, they are just short in length (literally 15–20 cm). First, beautiful white or pink apricot flowers develop on them, and then bright, slightly pubescent, sweet fruits, which are large berries with seeds inside.

Advantages and disadvantages

The columnar shape has undeniable advantages.

1. Compact - suitable for small areas, requires little space for growing, does not create shade for other plants.
2. Short development time - already in the third year, the planted cuttings begin to bear fruit.
3. Convenient to harvest - its compact shape without long branches allows you to quickly collect all the fruits.
4. Decorative – a trunk strewn with large flowers or bright fruits looks very beautiful, especially since the leaves appear later than the flowers.

There are also disadvantages, but they are minor.

1. The need for formative pruning - you need to leave branches no more than 20 cm long, otherwise the yield will deteriorate.
2. Frequent renewal of trees - a columnar plant can grow and bear fruit for up to 15 years, then the yield drops and the tree must be replaced.

When someone hears the word “apricot,” they think of sweet and tasty amber-colored fruits, while a gardener thinks of a spreading tree.

Lat. Prúnus armeniaca

A variety of apricots with a columnar shape appeared on the market and in gardens not very long ago. This invention of breeders looks like a slender column with a diameter of about 15 centimeters.

The main thing of such a plant is the trunk. It serves as the main feeding artery for the lateral branches coming from it.

The side branches of a properly formed tree should not be more than 20 centimeters. All of them are directed upward at an angle to the main rod.

Trees of this type rarely grow more than 2.5 meters in height. The standard height for them is 2 meters. In each specific case, the sizes depend on the growing conditions and climate.

During the bud season, the tree consists of one whole flowering column. During fruiting, apricots are located close to the trunk, and therefore they are very convenient to collect.

The successful combination of benefits and beauty in the columnar apricot has captivated more than one gardener.