Grape variety “Gift to Zaporozhye”, description, photo and video

Those lovers of sunny berries who are looking for a grape form with unique stress resistance and large white berries should pay attention to the mid-season “Gift of Zaporozhye” grapes. Truly, this hybrid form is a gift and not only for this southern region of Ukraine. For ten years, it bears fruit beautifully and does not let its fans down.

History of creation

Evgeniy Alekseevich Klyuchikov, a national breeder from the Zaporozhye region of Ukraine, has been breeding grapes for many years. He actively collaborated with the All-Russian Institute of Viticulture and Winemaking named after. ME AND. Potapenko and directly with the leading scientist I.A. Kostrikin.

Klyuchnikov was the first to think of obtaining hybrid forms from new super-resistant grape varieties. This is how the “Gift to Zaporozhye” grape and its improved daughter hybrid, “New Gift to Zaporozhye”, appeared.

“Gift to Zaporozhye” was created in 2004 according to the formula FV-6-6x(V-70-90+R-65), where (FV-6-6) is “Kesha-1”, (V-70-90) — “Tsytsa stable” and (R-65) — “Esther.”

“New Gift to Zaporozhye” appeared in 2012 - it is a hybrid of the parent forms “Gift to Zaporozhye” and “Delight”.

Aftercare for grapes

Grapes Podarok Zaporozhye needs frequent moderate, preferably drip, irrigation. During the flowering period and a week before the clusters begin to ripen, watering is stopped. In the first 2 years, the plant does not need fertilizing if all the necessary fertilizers have been added to the planting hole. From 3 years of age, grapes need to be fed with complex fertilizers only once a season. Among the organic fertilizers suitable for grapes are mullein, humus, horse manure, and vegetable compost. It is not advisable to introduce bird droppings. During the season, a grape bush requires 5 feedings:

• in early spring, before removing covers;
• before flowering;
• before the formation of ovaries;
• at the beginning of fruit ripening;
• for the winter.

The Podarok Zaporozhye grape variety needs garter. It is designed to help the plant cope with the weight of the fruit; for this you need to use twine or twine, but not wire.

Grape pruning

Pruning is necessary for the health of the bush; diseased and damaged shoots, excess clusters and leaves that interfere with their lighting and breathing are removed. In autumn, the vine is pruned at least a week before the first frost. This helps to better cover it for the winter. The grapes are removed from the trellis, all green, non-lignified parts of the bushes are cut out. On the vine of the previous year, 3–4 shoots of the current year are left.

Protecting crops from birds and insects

During the ripening period of grapes, when the berries become soft, juicy and sweet, the main pests of the crop are wasps, hornets and birds. Hornets are able to bite through the skin of fruits and eat the pulp, wasps feed on already damaged berries - after hornets and birds. The most effective method of protecting the bunches is to wrap them in a transparent mesh material. This is quite labor-intensive work, but it eliminates the need to set up various traps or resort to poisons.

Preparing the crop for winter

Grapes of the Podarok Zaporozhye variety will withstand the winter better if all the necessary autumn agrotechnical measures are carried out correctly. They are designed to prevent the plant from freezing in the cold and gain strength before the new season:

• pre-winter watering fills the bush with moisture and increases its frost resistance;
• fertilizers – complex, with the addition of boric acid, potassium permanganate, iodine, zinc sulfate;
• preventive treatment against parasites with soda-salt solution, copper or iron sulfate;
• insulation - the vine is pinned to the ground and covered with agrofibre or coniferous spruce branches. To protect against rodents, the plant is covered with carbide.

Botanical description of the hybrid form “Gift to Zaporozhye”

“Gift to Zaporozhye” is a large-fruited form, resistant to frost down to -24-25 degrees. The period from bud break to harvest is 130-140 days. Ready in mid-September. The yield of the variety is on average 40-60 kilograms per bush. Characterized by a unisexual, functionally female type of flowering. Pea blooming is not often observed, even if the weather was dry during flowering. It can be avoided by planting a bisexual grape bush nearby with the same flowering period.

The incidence of the variety is low. Practically not affected by mildew. With two standard treatments against rot, it does not suffer from oidium. The main thing is to have time to treat the bunches with fungicide a second time before the berries close and the drug gets on the comb.

Features of cultivation

Growing conditions

The variety is very productive and quite resistant only under certain growing conditions. It is very important to choose a place in such a way that the grape bush has sufficient sunlight and nutrients throughout its entire life cycle. The main requirements for the growing site are:

• The variety prefers to grow on fertile chernozem soils with neutral acidity. It is important that the depth of the fertile layer is at least 50-54 cm.
• Slight infestation of perennial weeds (wheatgrass, sow thistle, spurge, wormwood). These weeds are difficult to control because they have a well-branched root system. To cope with the above weeds, you need to apply a herbicide or carry out at least 7-8 weedings. Such work is very labor-intensive and expensive. Therefore, areas of soil with perennial weeds in quantities of more than 4 pieces per 1 sq. m. meter is better not to use for growing this variety.
• Optimal exposure of the grape bush to sunlight is very important for normal development and high yields. Therefore, the selected site should be located in an open area without various shading objects (buildings, fences, tall trees).
• The variety cannot develop in waterlogged soil conditions. Therefore, you need to pay attention to the depth of groundwater in a certain area and the evenness of the soil surface. After all, if the soil has various depressions (trenches, potholes, ditches), then water can accumulate in them and at the same time waterlogging of such an area. In addition, it is important that the site is not flooded with melt water during the spring.

Reproduction

The variety can be propagated quite easily using pre-prepared stems. All work on growing chibouks with a good root system includes the following steps:

• After the end of leaf fall and complete ripening of the vine, you need to select the required number of vines with a diameter of no more than 1.4-2 cm.
• Using a well-sharpened pruning shears, cut shanks from 32 to 40 cm long. Each shank needs to have from 3 to 4 buds.
• To preserve the viability of harvested chibouks until spring, you need to place their basement in pre-moistened sand.
• When spring comes, the chibouks are removed from the basement and, turned upside down, buried in the soil to form a root system. It is important that the lower internode of the shank be cut tangentially with pruners.
• After some time (8-13 days), small roots should appear at the site of the cuts. After this, the rooted chibouks can be planted in new growing areas.

Selection of seedlings

If it is not possible to grow planting material yourself, then the only way to obtain a seedling of this variety is to purchase it. At the same time, you need to show a grape seedling only in specialized stores or nurseries. When buying a seedling, you need to know that the highest quality planting material should have the following characteristics:

• The height of the above-ground part of the seedling should not be more than 40-46 cm.
• The seedling must be completely healthy and free from pests.
• The leaves on young shoots should be dark green.
• Healthy roots of a seedling should not be overdried and at the same time have many roots.

Landing time and method

In order for the seedling to quickly take root and satisfactorily endure the first winter period, it is recommended to plant it in the chosen place in early or mid-autumn (September - October). Planting a seedling should be done in the following sequence:

• 8-10 days before planting, you need to prepare a planting hole at the chosen location with a depth of 76-80 and a width of 80-83 cm. When digging a hole, you need to separate the fertile soil and the poorer litter rock (clay, marl). You need to dig a hole taking into account that the seedling planting pattern should be 3 x 2 m.
• To ensure rapid development of the root system, a drainage layer consisting of crushed stone or gravel is laid at the bottom of the pit. Such a drainage layer should be from 20 to 24 cm. For this purpose, you can also use various construction waste (broken bricks, crushed concrete).
• To provide the seedling with nutrients in the first years of growth, you need to add at least 17-19 kg to the hole. a mixture of rotted manure and black soil. This mixture should have a ratio of 1:14.
• The introduced soil elements must be filled with plenty of water (24-30 l.)
• After complete absorption of water, the seedling is planted in the center of the hole, and its root system is covered with fertile soil. In this case, the seedling must be planted in such a way that the root collar is buried 15-17 cm below the surface of the earth.
• Having finished planting the seedling, you need to make a hole around the plant and additionally water it with water in a volume of 14-20 liters. water.

Tying the vine

To ensure that the vines are not affected by diseases, have good ventilation and grow quickly, you need to tie the vines to the trellis in a timely manner. A V-shaped trellis is better suited for this variety. The use of such a trellis allows you to increase the number of fruit-bearing vines, and you can also create conditions for better ventilation of the bush and optimal illumination. Due to the fact that the variety is very productive, it is necessary to construct a trellis from durable material. Therefore, you need to use metal, concrete or wooden posts as trellis supports. These posts must have a height of at least 2-2.3 m. It is very important that tiers of wires are stretched across these supports (posts) at intervals of 47 to 52 cm. It is recommended that instead of the first tier of wire, use reinforcement with a diameter of 0.8-52 cm. 1 cm.

Watering plants

The variety must be watered. Watering should be carried out during certain periods of development of the grape bush. You can water the variety using hand tools (watering can, bucket) or using a hose. You can water the variety using drip irrigation. The creators of the variety recommend watering the grape bush as follows:

• When young shoots begin to grow, you need to water the variety once a week. At this time, the grape bush needs 17-20 liters. water.
• When a mass blooming variety, watering should be carried out in the same amount, increasing the amount of irrigation water to 24-26 liters.
• After the grapes begin to increase in size, watering should be reduced to once every two weeks. From 26 to 37 liters are consumed per bush. water.
• It must be clearly remembered that several weeks before the onset of full ripeness of the grape bunches, watering must be completely stopped.

Bush pruning

To provide the variety with good lighting, ventilation and protection of the vine from pests and diseases, it is necessary to carry out phased pruning throughout the season:

• After the end of wintering of the bush and the opening of the vine, areas of the bush that were severely damaged by frost must be removed.
• During the entire season, all stepsons and excess young shoots are removed.
• During the formation of clusters, they need to be rationed, leaving no more than two on one vine.
• In the fall, after the vine has fully ripened, pruning should be carried out with the possibility of forming fruit-bearing and replacement shoots.
• In the fall, vines that are damaged by pests and have signs of fungal diseases on their surface are also removed.

Top dressing

To get the maximum possible harvest, you need to fertilize the grape bush on time. It is very important to fertilize on time in the required volume and in the following sequence:

• During bud opening, the variety needs a significant amount of nitrogen fertilizers. To do this, you need to use ammonium nitrate (15-17.4 g per 1 sq. m.) or urea (13-15 g per 1 sq. m.). These fertilizers should be scattered evenly around the bush and watered generously to dissolve the fertilizers.
• When young shoots reach 20-23 cm, the variety needs to be fed with a solution of fermented chicken droppings. This solution must be prepared by dissolving chicken manure in water (1:13). One bush is fertilized with the above solution in a volume of 4-4.7 liters.
• Before flowering, the variety needs to be sprayed twice with Energen Aqua (14-15 ml per 7.2-8.4 liters of water). The break between spraying should be from 6 to 12 days. The above-mentioned preparation contains a large number of microelements.
• When flowering ends, you need to immediately fertilize the grape bush with crushed nitroammophos in a volume of 15-17 g per 11-13 liters. water. One bush consumes 6-7.3 liters. such a solution.

Disease Control

The variety is practically invulnerable to fungal diseases, but can be affected by oidium. This disease is also called powdery mildew, and the causative agent is a fungus. The disease can be easily identified at the very beginning of its development. During this period, the affected young shoots acquire a thin structure and the leaves begin to curl. At the end of spring, a white coating appears on the leaves and shoots. In mid-summer, this coating becomes gray in color, as the spores are already fully mature. The affected inflorescences fall off, and the fruits crack and dry out. The cause of the spread of the disease is weather in which the air temperature ranges from + 5 to + 20 degrees. Control measures:

• Compliance with the planting scheme.
• Application of mineral fertilizers in the correct doses.
• Carrying out timely sanitary and formative pruning in order to improve the airflow of the bush.
• To improve soil fertility, it is recommended to use the drug Boykal-M.
• The parts of the grape bush affected by the disease are removed in a timely manner.
• Application of complex fertilizer “Fertika Garden” before flowering at a dose of 94-100 g per 1 bush.
• In spring and autumn, preventive spraying of grape leaves with solutions of copper and iron sulfate.

Pest Control

The variety can be damaged by various pests, but if insect pests can be gotten rid of with the help of insecticides, then some problems may arise in the fight against wasps and birds. It is undesirable to use pesticides to scare away birds, and therefore the main way to combat bird pests is to build various noise mechanisms around the vineyard (rattles, empty cans). To protect grapes from wasps, you need to use a whole range of measures:

• Placing traps with toxic substances near the grape bushes.
• Hanging traps on grapevines from which wasps cannot escape.
• The use of fragrances to disorient the pest.
• Wrapping ripening bunches in thick material or in specially sewn bags.
• Destruction of pest nests in and around the vineyard.

Harvesting

You need to start harvesting when the first bunches ripen. Cleaning should be carried out according to the following recommendations:

• Clusters should only be cut using pruning shears.
• Harvesting of ripe bunches should be done in dry, non-rainy weather.
• The interval between harvesting should be no more than 4 days.
• The harvested crop must be carefully sorted and sorted by size.
• Wooden and plastic boxes, as well as wicker baskets, are best suited for storing collected bunches.
• You cannot collect bunches damaged by various diseases, especially oidium.

Preparing for winter

The variety overwinters well, but in very frosty winters, when the air temperature can drop below - 24 degrees, the vines can completely die. Therefore, you need to insulate the bush in the following ways:

• The vines are placed in a trench and covered with slate on top.
• Fertile vines are bent to the soil surface and metal arcs 34-40 cm high are placed on top. The arcs are covered with black film. Thus, the grapevine is located in an improvised greenhouse. It is important that the edges of this greenhouse can be opened for some time for air circulation.

Description of the bush:

The vine has great growth power: annual growth is 8 meters or more. The ripening of the wood is good, but at the end of August it is necessary to schedule the chasing of bushes, in this case the plant will remain strong and healthy the next year. Pruning of vines is carried out medium or short in accordance with the plan in the autumn or spring. It is better to form a bush using a fan or arched type on a high trellis. Since the bush is vigorous, it is necessary to normalize the brushes to one or two per shoot. The load on an adult plant is 40-50 buds.

Planting grapes

Scheme of planting grape seedlings.

Like other grape varieties, this species can be planted in both spring and autumn. Spring planting is a priority, as this gives the seedlings time to adapt and successfully develop the root system.

1. Planting is preceded by a preparatory period. For spring planting, the holes are prepared in the fall, for autumn planting - in 3–4 weeks before disembarkation.

   
   The distance between the pits in a row is about 2 meters.

2. The depth of each hole is 0.7–0.8 meters , the diameter is about 80 cm .
3. The bottom is lined with drainage material, on top of which a mixture of potash fertilizers and superphosphate is laid.
4. The second layer is nutrient soil or chernozem.
5. Only after this can a healthy seedling be placed in the hole.
6. The rest of the hole is filled with earth, which is lightly compacted and well shed.
7. When preparing the holes in the fall for next spring, the latter also need to be well watered. However, all this must be done before the first frost.

   
   Young seedlings must be covered for the winter, for example, covered with soil.

Characteristics of the bunches:

The grape “Gift to Zaporozhye” has a large cluster of cone-shaped, high-density grapes. The size of the bunches is 20-40 centimeters in length and the weight can also be from 0.5 kg to 3 kg, on average the bunches are 1-1.5 kilograms.

The berries are large, round olive-shaped, white-green in color with a thin pruin coating. The weight of the berries is 10-15 grams, dimensions: length-3.5-4.0 cm, width-2.5-3.2 cm. The taste is not nutmeg but good grape, the combination of acids and sugars is harmonious, the berries are sweet. Sugar content 17-29% with acidity 4-6 g/l. The seeds are large with a soft, durable covering. A berry can contain from one to three pieces.

The berries sit quite tightly in the clusters, but do not choke. The skin is soft, elastic, of medium thickness, protecting the juicy pulp from cracking and being eaten by insects.

Diseases and pests

“Gift to Zaporozhye” has excellent immunity; plants show increased resistance to mildew. For preventive purposes against oidium, in the spring the grapes are sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate. To prevent the bushes from being attacked by pests, they are treated several times with specialized preparations, such as:

• "Aktellik";
• "Decis";
• "Confidor";

You can also use colloidal sulfur for processing. To combat birds who want to feast on juicy berries, scarecrows are installed or special nets are pulled. A wasp invasion is only possible if the grapes are pecked by birds, since they will not be able to bite through the thick skin on their own.

Khirita - growing and care at home, photos of species

Specifications:

“Gift to Zaporozhye” is a table grape and is therefore intended primarily for fresh consumption. However, according to its technical characteristics, these grapes are suitable as a raw material for the production of juices, compotes, wines, and various home preserves.

Market demand for the Gift of Zaporozhye variety is consistently high, since at the end of September there are few white table varieties with large berries. Transportability is average, since the berry is juicy, heavy and does not hold tightly to the stem.

Summary table of characteristics of the hybrid form

Reviews from summer residents

• The variety grows well even on poor soils. The berries are very large and tasty. The grapes do not suffer from fungal diseases and tolerate long-term transportation of grown bunches well. The volume of harvest depends on the quality of care. It is necessary to water and feed. Good variety.
• An excellent variety with impressive clusters and large berries. The taste is magnificent and refined. It is necessary to normalize the number of berries. Stepchildren must be cut off. The variety needs watering and loosening the soil. It responds well to feeding with liquid mullein. One bush gives 24-26 kg. berries
• I have been growing this variety for six years now. Beautiful and massive clusters impress with their size. The taste of the berries is very pleasant and refreshing. The vines are very long and powerful. Many clusters are formed on one bush, so you need to leave no more than 2 on one vine. I collect 23-30 kg from a bush. berries annually.
• A productive variety with large clusters and high resistance of the bush against diseases. In spring, the bush begins to grow quickly and is capable of forming powerful vines. The first mature clusters can be obtained in the fourth year. To reap significant harvests, you need to water on time. Pruning is best done in late autumn.

Differences of the “New Gift to Zaporozhye”

Unlike the parent form, “New Gift to Zaporozhye” is earlier. The growing season of the variety is 115-125 days. Externally, “New” is no different from “Gift to Zaporozhye”. However, its disease resistance is slightly worse than that of its parent form. It happens that grapes become infected with oidium and additional treatments are required. Also, the berries in clusters are slightly smaller (10-12 grams). But these differences are insignificant, since the berries are aligned in the clusters and the yield of the bushes is just as high. The marketability of the variety “New Gift to Zaporozhye” is the same as that of the mother form.

Advantages and disadvantages

In reviews of Gift to Zaporozhye, gardeners note that this grape variety has obvious advantages.

• Abundant fruiting, the ability to resist peas. 70% of the ovaries mature;
• Bright taste and external characteristics of grapes;
• Uniformity of berries in the bunch;
• Resistance to rainy weather;
• Commercial attractiveness;
• Winter hardiness;
• Keeping quality until December;
• High resistance of the vine to infection by fungal diseases: mildew, oidium, rot.

The disadvantage of this variety is the need for careful transportation. The bunches are placed in boxes in one layer, otherwise the berries are easily torn from the stem. Some gardeners note the excessive juiciness of the pulp of the table variety.

How to cover grapes for the winter (video)

Before the onset of cold weather, the grapevine is prepared for winter. To do this, the shoots are cut to a length of 1 m, shaped into a fan and bent towards the soil. A layer of earth or sawdust is poured on top, a layer of spruce branches is laid, or covered with fallen leaves.

The reviews are mostly extremely positive. The hybrid form “Gift to Zaporozhye” is a truly successful variety, which always gives a stable and high yield even for completely inexperienced and novice winegrowers. It is recommended for cultivation as a variety that shows excellent results almost immediately after planting.

Read more:

1. Bazhena grape variety description
2. Charlie grapes variety description photo
3. Early gourmet grapes description of varieties 1-12
4. Libya grape variety description

Methods of propagation of grapes

The simplest and most common method of propagating the Podarok Zaporozhye grape variety is cuttings. In the fall, during pre-winter pruning, chibouks 30–40 cm long are harvested. Their bark should be a characteristic light or dark brown color, the inside should be green. On each shoot you need to leave 3-4 buds. In winter, the cuttings are stored in the cellar at +4 °C, lightly buried in a container with damp sand. You can dig a hole 50 cm deep in the garden, pour sand on the bottom, lay the chibouks and sprinkle with earth, leaves, sawdust, straw. In January, the shoots are removed from storage, treated with a solution of potassium permanganate and soaked in water for 2 days. Before planting, small cuts are made on the lower part of the cutting and treated with Kornevin. Roots are grown by placing the shoot in sawdust, soil or water.

Ginger in sugar: beneficial properties, contraindications, benefits and harms

Basic techniques of agricultural technology

Agricultural techniques for the variety also include watering, pruning, fertilizing and tying up the vine.

The best option is drip irrigation. However, in its absence, you can get by with the classic option. The main thing to remember is that you cannot water the grapes during the flowering period and you should stop all work on moistening approximately 7–8 days before the berries begin to ripen.

Trimming

Pruning is necessary not only for the formation of a strong vine, but also as a means of disease prevention.

It is recommended to leave a maximum of two bunches on one shoot.

Autumn pruning is carried out only after the grapes have shed their leaves, approximately 7–10 days after the last leaf fall . The main thing is to have time to carry out the procedure before the first frost, otherwise the wood of the vine will suffer.

Summer pruning is aimed at removing diseased and broken branches, as well as leaves that prevent the penetration of direct sunlight.

Gartering the vine will take the load off the bush, because the clusters of the New Gift to Zaporozhye variety are quite impressive. Pruning to 8–10 buds can also remove some of the load from the vine . Proper tying prevents damage and promotes the penetration of ultraviolet radiation. When tying, you should not choose wire as a material, as it can grind the vine.

Wintering

When preparing for winter, in case of little snow and very low temperatures, it makes sense to cover the bush with pine needles or special material.

A cozy house for wintering grapes.

Top dressing

• The first fertilizing is carried out after about 3 years, since the fertilizers added to the hole during planting will be enough for the vine for exactly this period. After 3–4 years, it is advisable to apply a mixture of nitrogen and potassium fertilizers, as well as superphosphate. This can be ammonium nitrate, potassium salt or more complex mineral compositions (Kemira, Florovit).
• About 8-10 days before the start of the flowering period, you can carry out a second feeding with a solution of water and chicken droppings or slurry.
• Fertilizing can also be combined with fungicide treatment . It is good if systemic fertilizers include substances such as zinc, copper, boron, manganese or cobalt. Such elements can be found in the preparations Novofert or Aquarin.
• Any nitrogen fertilizers are used only until mid-summer . You should be careful when feeding. Oversaturation with nutrients, oddly enough, will affect crop yields, and not for the better.

Treatment against diseases and pests

Affected areas of grapes cannot be cured, but further spread of the disease can be stopped.

Preventive spraying will prevent infection of grapes with oidium.

The variety is resistant to most diseases, but still requires constant monitoring and regular inspections. Pruning can be considered as a preventative measure against diseases, but for those who want to be on the safe side, treatment with fungicides is recommended. For example, this could be a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture , which significantly increases the plant's immunity and also helps in the fight against felt mites.

Ridomil is often used against the spring spread of fungal infections . On the eve of flowering, many gardeners use Strobi, and in the last treatment - Quadris or colloidal sulfur .