5 varieties of winter-hardy plums for Altai and Western Siberia


We take into account climatic conditions

Planting and caring for plums in Siberia, of course, differs from similar agricultural processes in other regions, and is completely oriented towards unfavorable climatic conditions. Growing any fruit tree, including plums, is especially difficult in snowy areas.

In the Altai Territory and Omsk Region, where winters are moderately snowy and summers are quite warm, conditions are more favorable than in the Tomsk and Kemerovo regions and Novosibirsk with cold snowy winters and moderate summers.

To date, many frost-resistant varieties of this crop have been developed that are suitable for Siberia. They tolerate low temperatures well, but the following problems are possible:

  • drying of immature annual shoots by winds;
  • sudden changes in temperature - cold snaps after thaws. The tree comes out of dormancy and the buds begin to swell. Therefore, their partial or complete freezing is possible. This means that you need to choose varieties with a long dormant period and weakly awakened buds;
  • plum tissues and organs suffer from damping off: death of the bark and cambium of the lower part of the trunk and skeletal branches due to the lack of frost and a thick layer of snow. It is impossible to prevent damping off by removing snow; the roots may freeze. The only way out can only be to freeze the soil in the tree trunk circle;
  • freezing of the upper part of the tree.

Considering all of the above, steppe areas and individual microzones with little snow are better suited for growing plums.

How to land

The process consists of several stages; work should begin long before planting the tree, since without proper preparation the chances of success will be low. Due to not the most favorable climatic conditions, it is extremely important to strictly follow the recommendations and choose the right time and place.

Choosing a location and preparing a pit

If you place a plum in the wrong place, then even perfect adherence to agricultural technology will not save the plant from constant problems or even death. Therefore, it is worth understanding all the cultural preferences in order to select a site with suitable conditions:

  1. It is best if the crown is illuminated by the sun all day. Only slight shading is allowed, otherwise development will slow down, the trunk will grow crooked, and much fewer ovaries will form.
  2. The depth of groundwater is at least one and a half meters, and ideally 2 meters or more. Also, you should not plant plums in lowlands, since cold air accumulates there in the fall and winter, and melt water in the spring, which will lead to the death of the root system.
  3. Place it no closer than 3 m from a fence or buildings. It is better to choose the south or west side. Choose a place protected from cold winds; under no circumstances plant in a draft.
  4. When planting several plants in one area or establishing a garden, leave 2 to 4 meters between them, depending on the size. For columnar options, the distance is less - about a meter. Between the rows, make passages of 3 to 4 meters or more if equipment will travel there.

After choosing a location, prepare a planting hole, doing this at least six months before planting the tree. This is necessary to saturate the soil with nutrients and improve its structure. Plum prefers light soil, saturated with microelements and well-permeable to air. Carry out the work like this:

  1. Dig a hole with a diameter of 70 to 10 cm and a depth of 60 to 80 cm. The poorer the soil, the larger the hole to provide food for the tree; this should also be done in places with a high clay content.
  2. If there is a danger of the groundwater level rising in the spring, then it is advisable to pour a 20 cm thick drainage layer on the bottom. Use large crushed stone, broken brick or small stones.
  3. On depleted soils, add a 10 cm thick layer of humus or rotted manure to the bottom. If the acidity level is elevated, add dolomite flour or slaked lime to deoxidize.
  4. Prepare a nutrient mixture of fertile soil, sand and humus in equal proportions. Mix well, add 300 g of superphosphate and 150 g of potash fertilizers.
  5. Fill the hole 3/4 full. Compact it well, cover it with soil from the site, and make a small mound. If the surface subsides significantly within a month, add more soil.

Leave the prepared area for at least six months so that the soil compacts and does not sag. If there are several holes, it is better to drive a peg in the center of each for a guide, then plant exactly in the middle and not move the hole when planting. Remove weeds if prepared in spring.


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Landing

Buy a high-quality and healthy seedling, when choosing, pay attention to the condition of the roots, they must be healthy, without rot and blackness, severe damage and drying out are not allowed. A straight trunk, a neat grafting site, uniform and smooth bark are signs of a healthy plant. It is advisable to purchase a variant with a closed root system; it is easier to plant. Carry out the work like this:

  1. Dig a hole in the prepared area slightly larger than the size of the rhizome. Select the depth so that the root collar is above ground level. Try on the plant, put a slat or shovel handle, check if the seedling is buried.
  2. Align the tree. Immediately drive in a peg for the initial tying of the trunk.
  3. Cover the roots with a layer of about 10 cm, level the ground, pour 3 buckets of warm or pre-settled water into the hole. Then fill the hole to ground level, compact the surface well, no need to water from above.
  4. Tie the plum, use soft twine, do not tighten it too much, so as not to damage the bark. Make a small furrow around the perimeter of the tree trunk to collect moisture.

Advice!

It is best to carry out work in Siberia in the spring after the soil has thawed, then over the course of the season the tree will adapt and take root normally. In autumn it is allowed to plant only in early September, but there is no guarantee that the seedling will survive the winter.

When using the option with a closed root system, it still needs to be prepared. After removing the container, carefully inspect the bottom and sides, straighten the roots if they are wrinkled. If mold is found, destroy the soil lump and remove all affected areas.

Choosing frost-resistant varieties

You need to carefully select a crop variety for a region with cold, snowy winters. The best option is frost-resistant self-fertile plum varieties for Siberia (frost-resistant varieties Renklod and Vengerka) or hybrid forms (Alaya Zarya, Medovaya, Rubin plums).

We present a brief description of the main cultural groups that take root well in the Siberian region:

  • Ussuri plum. Varieties Altai Yubileinaya, Burgundy, Oyuna, Zaryanka, Zheltaya Khopty. Frost-resistant, damping-resistant, early-fruiting varieties. The fruits have excellent taste characteristics, but are poorly transported. The yield is average, possible damage to stone fruit diseases;
  • Canadian and American semi-dwarf varieties of plums. The level of frost resistance is average, but they tolerate drought well, early fruiting, and universal-purpose fruits;
  • plum varieties for the southern regions of Siberia - Kargazin varieties (Rumyanaya, Kulundinskaya). Not resistant to damping off, but cold-resistant and drought-resistant plums with tasty aromatic fruits. The yield is average, fruiting is periodic;
  • Russian plum or cherry plum. The hybrid form, which tolerates cold, heat, and temperature changes equally well, adapts and recovers perfectly. The fruits are small, do not store for a long time, but have an excellent taste. Varieties: Northern Dessert, Honey, Scarlet Dawn, Rainbow;
  • for the Urals, it is recommended to choose varieties specially bred for the region: Pride of the Urals and Pearl of the Urals. Buryat varieties are suitable for snowy regions: Stranger, Nakhodka, Daughter of Buryatia.

Preparing for the Siberian winter

In Siberia, winters are quite harsh, so it is important to prepare seedlings in advance. Plums tolerate frost well. But it must be borne in mind that young seedlings are very vulnerable. In addition, if you replant them in the fall, they may not have time to take root completely before frost arrives. Such trees often die.

Certain measures can protect plums from frost. First you need to insulate the barrel. To do this, it is wrapped several times in burlap or special insulation is used, and the top is covered with film or other material that does not allow moisture to pass through. All this must be firmly secured with rope or tape.

If the tree is small and was planted in late autumn, it is better to additionally build a frame and stretch the insulating material over the seedling and wrap it completely. It is important not to use only film in this case, since the bark may become heated under it. The tree trunk circle also needs to be insulated by mulching it with pine spruce branches or straw, sawdust. This will protect the root system from freezing.

Planting a tree correctly

Growing plums in Siberia is not difficult, but it is labor-intensive. Even an amateur can cope with it if he follows certain rules. Before planting a tree, you need to decide on the area that is most suitable for the crop. It is recommended to choose a well-lit space protected from wind and drafts. The soil is preferably loose, enriched with organic matter, sandy or sandy loam.

The time for planting is chosen based on the duration and beginning of the cold period in the region. Early spring or autumn is optimal. The distance between seedlings depends on the characteristics of the tree and the variety being planted: for tall ones with a spreading volumetric crown, at least 4 m, for smaller plums - from 1.5 to 2.5 m. If the plum is not a self-fertile variety, it is necessary to plant nearby pollination of the variety.

The hole should be so wide and deep that the root system of the seedling is not damaged and the roots can be freely distributed. It is necessary to apply a complex fertilizing consisting of manure and potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. Depending on the type of soil, sand, lime, and wood ash are added variably. Fertilizers are covered with soil and covered with soil. Sometimes planting is replaced by grafting.

Young cuttings are grafted onto strong, healthy rootstocks. If the cutting has successfully taken root, such a tree has a better chance of surviving a harsh winter.

Plum in Siberia: planting, growing and care


First, determine the place where the crop will grow. Site requirements:

  • a place well lit by the sun;
  • protected from winds;
  • with light fertile soil.

Winter winds are especially dangerous for plum trees, so it is better to plant the tree near fences or closer to outbuildings.

The culture likes to grow on chernozem soils with a light airy structure. To ensure the passage of air and moisture, sand is added to heavy soils. It is unacceptable to plant plums in areas with close groundwater. Acidic, waterlogged soils are not suitable. In such places, the tree often gets sick, does not bear fruit and dies.

Holes are dug, maintaining a distance between plantings. For varieties with voluminous crowns, leave up to 3-4 meters; for small-growing plums, one and a half meters is enough. Don’t forget about planting pollinators for self-sterile varieties. For such drains, in addition to the main holes, holes are dug for pollinating trees.

Step 1. Preparing the pit

Preparatory work begins in advance; holes are dug 3-4 weeks before planting the seedlings. If you plan to plant the crop in the spring, holes are dug in the fall.

The sizes are determined by the size of the seedlings. Usually the depth is 50-60 cm, the diameter is 60 cm. The soil from the pit is mixed with a nutrient mixture (compost, fertilizers), and drainage must be laid at the bottom. Suitable for him:

  • stones;
  • pieces of iron;
  • brick fragments.

On a note!

In cold weather, a drainage layer of iron and stones will warm the roots of the plum tree, giving them accumulated and stored heat.

The mixture is poured halfway over the drainage layer to form a mound.

Step 2. Planting plums in Siberia

They carefully take a seedling and place it in the very center, on a mound. Then the roots are sprinkled with the remaining nutrient mixture, soil, compacted and watered. Deep planting, which leads to damping off of the tree bark, is not allowed.

A peg is placed in the hole, to which a young tree is tied. The support will prevent the plum from falling under the wind or heavy precipitation.

Step 3. Mulching

After planting the tree, the soil around it is thoroughly mulched. Sawdust, humus or rotted peat are suitable.

The golden rule of care

There is one agrotechnical procedure that distinguishes plum care in Siberia from similar ones in other regions. We are talking about freezing the soil in order to prevent damping off of the trunk bark and skeletal branches. To do this, the snow in the tree trunk area is not removed, but rather compacted. Large empty barrels are also placed around the trunk. Naturally, trees need to remove root shoots and regular pruning.

In early spring, sanitary pruning of damaged branches is carried out; in early summer, the crown is formed and thinned. In order for the trees to recover faster, the cut areas are lubricated with garden varnish, and the plums are fed with complex fertilizers. We should not forget about regular watering, because not all frost-resistant varieties tolerate drought well.

For old plants, rejuvenating pruning is carried out, which promotes the formation of young shoots. Care includes preventative measures to prevent stone fruit diseases and pest infestations. To do this, trees are treated with insecticides and fungicides several times a year.

How to plant a plum seedling

You need to prepare in advance for planting seedlings. It is very important to comply with deadlines and the technology itself. Experienced gardeners give their recommendations on this matter. After planting, the tree needs to be given special attention so that it takes root and develops correctly.

Landing dates

You can plant plums both in spring and autumn. Each season has its own advantages.

Spring planting, according to many gardeners, is more suitable for Siberia for the following reasons:

  • seedlings take root better, since in the spring they are no longer afraid of frost;
  • there is no need to cover trees;
  • within a couple of weeks you can assess whether the seedling has taken root or not.

The climate in Siberia is quite harsh. If you do not calculate the timing of planting in the fall, the plum may not take root and take root before the cold weather. In this case, she will not survive the winter. However, many gardeners prefer autumn planting, since at this time of year there is a greater choice of seedlings and there is free time to place trees in the garden plot.

According to the approximate dates, in the spring you need to plant plums in March, early April. In the fall, these events can be planned for October. It is important to wait until the sap flow stops. The seedlings must be in a dormant state.

In the spring, you need to make sure that the buds on the plums do not swell, much less the leaves bloom. In the fall, you can start replanting plum trees after all the leaves have fallen. In stone fruit crops, leaf fall usually occurs earlier.

Site selection and soil preparation

Plums grow well in sunny areas. Some shading is possible, but mainly on the north side. If there are outbuildings on the site, you should plant the plum tree on the south side of them.

Plums grow poorly in lowlands, as well as in places where groundwater lies close to the surface. If the area is often flooded, you need to do drainage. Plum can be planted on a hill or an artificially constructed mound.

Direct landing

It is recommended to dig a hole 2-3 weeks before planting the plum. This is necessary so that the soil settles and the gardener can navigate more accurately how deep the root collar needs to be. The size of the hole should be approximately 2 times larger than the root system of the seedling.

Place drainage (broken brick or pebbles) at the bottom of the depression, then add humus and fertile soil. You can also add complex mineral fertilizer (100-150 g). The seedling does not have to be prepared for planting. If the tree is weakened, you can dip the roots into the Heteroauxin solution for 30 minutes immediately before. Planting should be carried out according to the following scheme:

  1. Water the planting hole generously. 2 buckets of water are enough.
  2. Lower the seedling into the hole and deepen it to the root collar. It should be either level with the ground, or 2-3 cm lower.
  3. Place the tree vertically and cover the roots with prepared soil, compacting the soil.
  4. Drive pegs around the perimeter of the tree trunk circle (2-3 pieces at a distance of 30 cm from the trunk), tie a tree to them, and firmly fix the rope.
  5. Mulch the tree trunk with hay or spruce branches.

On a note!

When planting in spring, seedlings need to be watered much more often (once a week). In autumn there is already enough precipitation; additional moisture is not always required.

Getting ready for winter

In order for a plum to grow and develop in Siberia, it must be carefully looked after. Preparing for winter is a process that cannot be excluded. Since varieties with a high degree of frost resistance are mainly planted, there is no need to cover them; snow will be enough. Such plums are fed and watered abundantly for the winter. Fruits that are grown in less snowy areas need shelter. To avoid damping off, it is recommended to use special agrofibre or spruce branches.

Features of the variety

When choosing a plum variety for growing in a cold region, a number of criteria should be taken into account. You should not rely only on the taste characteristics of the fruit and the appearance of the tree. To grow a fruit plant in Siberia, the following indicators are required:

  • resistance to winter frosts and spring frosts;
  • selection of varieties with high yields;
  • Fruiting should occur gradually;
  • resistance to diseases and insects;
  • pollination: self-fertile plums will allow you to harvest even in bad weather conditions that prevent bees from pollinating;
  • Growing varieties that require cross-pollination involves planting a pollinator plant nearby.

Video “How to grow plums”

From this video you will learn how to properly grow a plum tree in the garden.

For several years now, plums have been freezing in our garden (Hungarian and damson plums were planted). So we were convinced from our own experience that these trees do not always survive in the harsh Siberian winters. Tell me, what varieties of plums can be grown in Siberia?


Despite the fact that the plum, in general, is quite winter-hardy, most of its species cannot tolerate the Siberian climate with its frosts and heavy precipitation in the form of snow. Here gardeners will have to select special varieties that have a number of advantages compared to plums grown in the European part.

Plum varieties for Siberia must not only have increased winter hardiness, but also resistance to sudden temperature changes in early spring, as well as damping off and freezing as a result of heavy snow cover. In addition, they must be able to withstand strong winds and low temperatures well.

The best types of plums for growing in the Siberian climate are:

  • Ussuri plum varieties;
  • cherry-plum hybrids.

Questions and answers

  1. compact snow in the tree trunk area;
  2. lay stones when planting in a hole;
  3. They place large barrels near the trees, the height of which exceeds the snow cover.

The harsh climate of the north of the Russian Federation requires special care when choosing varieties of fruit trees. Below are photos with the name and description of plum varieties most suitable for cultivation in Siberia.

Features of Ussuri plum

Types of Ussuri plum have increased winter hardiness and can easily tolerate frosts down to -44 degrees, but this is only possible with a sufficient level of moisture. In case of drought, the resistance of trees to freezing is significantly reduced, the taste and quantitative characteristics of the fruit deteriorate, and sometimes the ovary even completely falls off. With a sufficient amount of moisture, they bear fruit abundantly from the age of 3 years. Also resistant to weathering.

Since most varieties bloom early, flower buds can be damaged by severe return frosts (if the air temperature drops below 3 degrees below zero), which should be taken into account when growing plums in regions with late spring.

The following varieties of Ussuri plums tolerate Siberian winters well:

  • Altai Anniversary;
  • Yellow Khopty;
  • Pyramidal;
  • Dawn of Altai;
  • Red-cheeked.

Description of varieties

If in Crimea gardeners choose seedlings based on taste and appearance, then in Siberia the choice of plum trees that can survive frosts is small.

Ussuri plum (frost-resistant varieties)

Ussuri plums that can withstand a significant drop in temperature include:

  1. Divnaya (Krasnoyarsk) bears small red fruits, weighing up to 10 g . Plums have a sweet and sour taste, the peel is slightly bitter. The variety is characterized by an average degree of winter hardiness. When properly pruned, the seedling forms a rounded crown. The harvest is harvested in the last week of summer.

Features of cherry-plum hybrids

Hybrids of plum and sand cherry are compact in size; their bush height does not exceed 2 m, due to which in winter most of the crown is protected from frost by snow.

Flowering in hybrids occurs a week later than in the Ussuri plum, which also helps preserve the future harvest, although the flower buds already have increased winter hardiness. Plums begin to bear fruit from the second year of life; in most varieties the fruits are dark in color and ripen at the end of summer.

The most winter-hardy hybrids are those of domestic selection. As for American varieties, their aboveground part often freezes out, but quickly recovers.

The following hybrid varieties are most often grown in Siberia:

  • Bee;
  • Chulyma;
  • Amateur;
  • Admiral Schley;
  • Maynor.

Growing Ussuri plum - video

Plum is a tasty and very sweet fruit that is grown in many regions of Russia. Since ancient times, it has been valued for its excellent qualities. How can you not like her?

This fruit has good taste and healthy qualities (you can read more about the properties of plums here). You can make compotes, jams from plums, or simply eat them fresh. And how delicious dried plums are!

If you suddenly decide to plant it on your summer cottage, then first read the reviews about this or that variety. It will also be important to pay attention to the climate. Many people believe that growing plums in the Urals or Siberia does not always bring results. However, it is not.

Although it is considered a heat-loving plant, there are varieties that can easily withstand the harsh Siberian winters. Let's look at which varieties are suitable specifically for this area and how to properly grow this crop.

New varieties

The Buryat Fruit Growing Experimental Station has developed new varieties recommended for cultivation in areas with snowy and frosty winters:

  • Daughter of Buryatia;
  • Stranger;
  • Baikal amber;
  • Finding Buryatia.

The discovery of Buryatia is distinguished by its large fruits, which can be enjoyed fresh or made into jam, jam, or preserves.

The trees are characterized by resistance to damping off. Plums are medium-sized and produce an unstable harvest, since the buds are prone to freezing during return frosts in the spring. The fruits are large, the weight of the plum is 30–35 g . Plums are self-sterile; Ussuri varieties are used as pollinators.

Due to unfavorable conditions in the Novosibirsk region, new varieties bred at the South Ural Research Institute are not recommended for planting: Uyskaya, Kuyashskaya, Shershnevskaya . They are prone to overheating and freezing of the buds.

Self-pollinating

Almost all varieties of plums suitable for growing in Siberia are not self-pollinating.

This means that several varieties that bloom at the same time should be planted on the site.

Recommended varieties

Before you start planting plums, it is still worth familiarizing yourself with the characteristics of the varieties that are offered on the modern market of stone fruit crops.

This is important: not every plum variety is suitable for the regions of Siberia and the Urals. When choosing, be sure to look in the description for which regions and climate this variety is most suitable.

So, let's look at the best varieties of plums for growing in the Urals and Siberia:

  • Altai anniversary. This variety is distributed from the West to the East of Siberia, and can also be found in the Ural region. Also widespread in Northern Kazakhstan. It is considered early in terms of ripening speed. Full ripeness of the fruits begins in mid-August. Ripe fruits are small in size and have a round shape. The weight of one berry averages about 15 grams. The color of the ripe berry is usually yellow-orange, covered with a pale pink blush. The peel of the fruit is thin and has a coating of white wax. The inside of the fruit is yellow-orange. The flesh is tender and very soft.


    The taste is pleasant, aromatic, sweet with a sour aftertaste. The bone inside is large and easily lags behind the inside. The trees grow to medium height. The crown is round in shape. The tree does not have too many branches, so the crown is medium dense. The color of the bark is gray-brown. The tree begins to bear fruit 3-4 years after planting;

  • Peresvet. This variety is widespread in gardens in the Altai Territory and in the southern region of the Krasnoyarsk Territory. For the first time this variety was bred at the NIISS named after. M.A. Lisavenko in the forest-steppe zone in the Altai Territory. The variety is early ripening, the first ripe berries appear in the first half of August. A ripe berry has a round, slightly angular appearance. The average weight is 13-14 grams. The color of the berry is orange, with reddish marbled spots. The peel has almost imperceptible light subcutaneous dots, which have a moderate wax coating. The structure of the peel is not rough, but thin. The transportability of the fruit is not very good. The inside of the berries is soft with good juiciness. The color of the pulp is bright yellowish with an orange tint.


    The taste is sour with a sweetish aftertaste. In the inner part of the fruit there is an oval-type stone with a smooth structure. It comes off the pulp quite easily. The trees are of average height. The shape of the crown is raised, back pyramidal and compressed. The color of the branches is gray with a brown tint. In appearance, the shoots are straight or slightly curved with many small lentils. Trees begin to bear fruit approximately 3-4 years after planting;

  • Chemalskaya. The variety is widespread throughout the entire territory from Western to Eastern Siberia and the Urals. It withstands winter frosts and spring frosts and produces a good harvest. This is a self-fertile plum, which belongs to the late varieties. Fully mature fruits begin to appear in the third decade of August. A ripe berry measures about 25 mm in length and almost 30 mm in diameter. The average weight of the fetus is at least 15 grams. The shape of the berries is rounded-angular and has a deep funnel, which is divided by a furrow. The color of the fruit is dark red with a coating of blue wax that covers the entire surface of the berry.


    There are small dots under the skin. The structure of the skin is rough and dense. The color of the pulp is yellow-green. The taste is good. The taste is sour with a sweetish aftertaste. In addition, it has good juiciness and a pleasant aroma. Trees of medium height. There are bouquet branches on the crown. The shoots have a straight shape with a thin and bare structure. The shoots are brown in color and have a large number of lentils. Trees begin to bear fruit after 3-4 years of life after planting;

  • Chemal's Gift. This is a self-fertile plum with early ripening. Ripe fruits appear in the second half of August. Gives a good stable harvest. Resistant to severe frosts in winter and frosts in spring. A ripe berry has the shape of a ball about 30 mm. The average weight is almost 12 grams. A berry with a deep funnel and an almost invisible seam. The peel is orange in color with a light pink blush. The fruits have dark red subcutaneous dots and a coating of wax. The structure of the pulp is dense, slightly loose. It is yellow in color with a greenish tint.


    The taste is good. The taste is slightly sour with a sweet aftertaste and a pleasant aroma. Inside the pulp there is a medium stone of a rounded elongated shape, which is easily separated from the pulp. Trees of medium height. Their crown is not very dense with a flat, rounded shape with branches in the form of bouquets. The structure of the branches is smooth. They are brown in color with an olive tint and have a reddish tint in the upper part. Fruiting of trees begins after 3 years of life after planting;

  • Pride of the Urals. Self-fertile plum, which is common in Western and Eastern Siberia and the Urals. Belongs to frost-resistant varieties. It withstands severe frosts in winter and frosts in spring. Gives a good harvest. It does not bear fruit every year. Usually it rests after 2-3 years. This is an early ripening variety; fully ripe fruits appear in early August. Fruiting is regular. The fruits are oval in shape and medium in size. The weight of one berry can reach almost 40 grams. The color of the berry is dark red with a blue tint. There is a small light coating of wax on the surface of the peel.


    Inside the pulp has a yellowish tint. The structure of the pulp is loose and quite dense. It tastes sweet with a slightly sour aftertaste. It has good juiciness, softness and a pleasant aroma. Fruiting of trees occurs approximately 3-4 years after planting in the ground;

  • Pearl of the Urals. This is a self-fertile plum. Belongs to frost-resistant varieties. Tolerates severe frosts and spring frosts well. It ripens quite early. Fruit ripeness begins in the first half of August. A ripe berry weighs almost 25 grams. It is round in shape with a medium depression at the stalk. The surface color of the peel is green with a bluish tint. The color is distributed evenly over the entire surface, there are faint spots. The color of the pulp is pale yellow with an orange tint. The structure of the pulp is quite dense.


    The taste is good. The taste is sweet, juicy, with a slight sour aftertaste. Has a pleasant aroma. Inside there is a small oval bone that is difficult to separate from the pulp. The trees are medium-sized. The crown is of medium density. Young shoots are anthocyanin colored, with many lentils. Fruiting of trees begins in the 4th year of life after planting in the ground.

Suitable varieties

Breeders have bred many plums that produce a good harvest in the short Siberian summer. The choice is large, and it depends only on the needs of gardeners what characteristics of the crop to pay attention to.

Abundant plum blossoms do not always guarantee a good harvest. Without proper care,...

Self-fertile varieties for Siberia

For many summer residents, the determining factor when choosing a suitable plum variety is the plant’s ability to self-pollinate. Such crops do not require the help of insects or the presence of similar trees in the neighborhood for pollination. Fertilization of the ovaries occurs even in unopened flowers, and even unfavorable external factors will not interfere with the process.

In one region of Siberia, a certain variety of crop is self-fertile; in another, the same variety shows a small percentage of fruit set without pollinators. It is also taken into account that in order to obtain 100% pollination, even such plums require replanting of varieties for pollination. Without them, the number of ovaries without pollination usually does not exceed 50-55%.

  • Zarya Altai is characterized by increased winter hardiness and versatility of fruit use. A beautiful tree with a ball-shaped crown, early ripening. Plums are small, round in shape, bright red;
  • Yellow Khopty is a variety of Ussuri plum culture, low-growing, winter-hardy. Self-fertility is partial. The fruits are round, amber in color and have a pleasant taste. The weight of cream is 18-20 grams. One of the best varieties for growing in cold climates;
  • Chemal’s gift is a self-fertile cream with small bluish-colored fruits. It produces an unthickened crown and bears fruit abundantly and consistently in Siberian conditions. The taste is satisfactory. The fruits are harvested from mid-August;
  • Overexposure - characterized by early flowering, demanding of moisture. A winter-hardy, early variety, it begins to bear fruit already 3 years after planting. The fruits are round, reddish in color.

The best sweet plum varieties for Siberia

It is believed that the sweetest are the late varieties of the crop, which manage to accumulate the required percentage of sugars over a long growing season.

  • Altai Jubilee is a large tall tree with bright orange fruits. The first harvest is harvested in the 4th year after planting. Fruit weight is up to 25-28 grams. They ripen from about mid-August. Recommended for compotes, jams, and fresh consumption;
  • Baikal Yantar - the variety is famous for its excellent fruit taste and winter hardiness. The wood is resistant to weathering. The fruits ripen towards the end of summer. Plums are yellow with a red tint. Weight – up to 25 grams;
  • Oyuna - valued for its large fruits, sweetness, and strong aroma. The variety was developed in Buryatia and is distinguished by its yield, excellent taste, and frost resistance. The fruits are reddish in color with a raspberry tint.

The varieties Valor, Zanyatnaya, Utro, as well as Yellow Khopta are praised for their sweet fruits.

Winter-hardy plum varieties for Siberia

Among winter-hardy plums suitable for the region:

  • Honey - belongs to the early varieties, tolerates frosts down to minus 30 degrees. The first fruits are harvested in the 4th year after planting. It is tall and requires a significant area for planting;
  • Pioneer - part of the group of Chinese plums. Pollination is required (replanting, attracting insects). The yield is excellent. The variety is distinguished by its high winter hardiness, resistance to drought, and various infections;
  • Uvelskaya is a Siberian plum bred in the Urals, suitable for cultivation in a number of regions with cold climates. Frost-resistant, ovaries and flowers are resistant to short-term spring cold snaps. Produces tasty fruits with high sugar content.

Bush plum varieties for Siberia

Some bush trees are also popular:

  • Mainor is a variety of old Canadian selection, characterized by low winter hardiness in Siberian conditions. But it is valued for its productivity and early fruitfulness. The first fruits are harvested 2-3 years after planting the seedlings, the usual harvest time is the end of summer;
  • Chulym and Pchelka - bush varieties are famous for their productivity and excellent transportability. They belong to the group of semi-dwarf plums, the crown is sparse. These are one of the few varieties that are resistant to damping off. Bee's fruits are brown, while Chulym's are blue. Weight – 5-7 grams, taste satisfactory.

Early varieties of plums for Siberia

There are not many varieties with early harvesting of berries, among them:

  • Admiral Schley - fruits are round in shape, red-pink in color. The variety is productive, excellent for the harsh conditions of the region;
  • Dawn of Altai, Peresvet.

The best varieties of Chinese plum for Siberia

Among the Chinese plums suitable for harsh climates are:

  • Chemalskaya is a well-known variety from Altai breeders, but currently its popularity is falling. Low trunk, thickened crown. Fruits up to 14-16 grams, dark red with a waxy coating. Several improved hybrid forms of plums have been developed on the basis of Chemal;
  • Red-cheeked is a variety bred in the mountainous regions of Altai. It has excellent winter hardiness and stable fruiting. Increased winter hardiness of fruit buds. The fruits are orange-yellow, with a slight whitish coating. The taste is satisfactory.

Russian plum varieties for Siberia

From Russian breeders suitable for Siberia:

  • Yakhontovaya - characterized by strong growth, withstands low temperatures well (down to minus 30-32 degrees). The fruits ripen at the end of August;
  • Red ball is an early ripening plum with large rounded fruits. Weight – up to 35-40 grams. The pulp is juicy and sweet. The early-growing variety is popular among gardeners in Siberia.

Growing

Remember that the entire success of planting, further cultivation and obtaining a good harvest directly depends on the choice of place for planting, proper planting and further care of the plant.

Requirements for soil and planting site

First you need to choose a suitable landing site. Follow the recommendations:

  1. It is worth considering that this plant is capricious and very finicky. It will bear fruit only in areas with good protection from the wind.
  2. The most suitable option would be gentle slopes on the south, southwest and west sides.
  3. It is advisable to plant seedlings in well-warmed areas, in places where there is good aeration.
  4. If you decide to choose a low-lying place for planting plums, then it is advisable to make a small artificial mound there. The height of the hills should be about 40-50 cm, and the size of the base should be almost 2 meters.
  5. The composition of the soil should also be taken into account. Remember that plum loves soil of gray forest, loamy and chernozem types. In addition, they must have a good level of moisture and breathability.

Landing

Preparing the planting hole

It is best to plant in the spring. Since the climate in Siberia and the Urals is cool, seedlings planted in the fall may not have time to take root and will simply freeze. The optimal period for planting is the third ten days of April.

It is also worth paying attention to the soil, it should thaw and warm up well. The holes should be prepared at the beginning of spring, approximately 2-3 weeks before planting.

The depth of the hole should be almost 60 cm, the diameter should be about 60-70 cm. It is advisable to remove the soil from it and mix it with humus in a ratio of 2 to 1. In addition, you can also pour some complex fertilizers there. After this, the earth is poured back into the hole.

Just before planting, the hole is dug again and the soil is thoroughly fluffed up. Then the seedling must be placed in a hole, with the root collar located 5-6 cm above the surface of the earth, and sprinkled with a small amount of earth. At first, the seedling should be tied to a special wooden peg until the root system is completely strengthened.

Care

Pruning plum

The rules for caring for plums are as follows:

  1. As soon as the seedling is planted, it must be watered abundantly. Approximately one seedling will require about 30 liters of water. Then it needs to be mulched generously. In the subsequent season, the plum is watered about 3-4 times. The first watering is carried out in mid-May, the second - after the end of flowering during the intensive development of fruits, the third - during the ripening period, the fourth - in late autumn.
  2. It is also worth paying great attention to feeding. It is necessary to start feeding trees with fertilizers in the third year of their life. For fertilizer, a mixture of humus or compost (about 7 kilograms) and 200 grams of wood ash per 1 square meter is perfect. meter of land. During the active growing season, complex mineral fertilizers should be applied. Nitrogen mixtures should be added in the form of solutions. It is advisable to add phosphorus, potassium, mixtures that have a dry and poorly soluble structure to the soil in the fall.
  3. Pruning of plum trees should be done in spring, when active sap flow has not yet begun. The process should begin at the seedling stage. Young seedlings begin to actively grow branches and therefore during this period it is possible to form the correct shape of the plum crown. Also, taking into account the feedback from experienced gardeners, it is recommended to remove shoots that are actively growing from the root system. It can affect the further growth and yield of plums.
  4. In the spring, the trunks should be whitened, this will protect against damage from all kinds of pests. You can also install rodent and mouse protection nearby.

If you decide to plant a plum on your plot, be sure to familiarize yourself with all the varieties intended for cultivation in this region. Also pay attention to the climate: many varieties are very capricious and may not grow well in areas with cold and harsh climates.

Be sure to follow the rules for planting and caring for plum trees. Its further growth and harvest will depend on this. I wish you success!

Watch overview videos about growing plums in Siberia and the Urals:

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The plum has always been considered the most whimsical tree for the garden. But today many varieties have been bred that make it possible to successfully grow it even in the coldest corners of the country.

Let's take a closer look at the most popular new products and old proven varieties of the best plums.

Plum varieties for the Siberian garden

Plum is one of the favorite fruit crops of Siberian gardeners. In Siberia, however, it bears fruit unstably, and it does especially poorly in snowy places. Growing plums in Siberia has general principles, however, each type is characterized by certain features of agricultural technology

Types of plums for Siberia

The Siberian plum assortment is represented by three traditional groups of varieties:

  1. Ussuri plum (a variety of Chinese),
  2. less often – Karzinskaya (a population of hybrids of American and Canadian plums),
  3. plum-cherry hybrids , the fruiting of which is unstable.

Since the end of the 20th century, a hybrid of Ussuri plum and cherry plum - hybrid cherry plum , or Russian plum - .

Ussuri plum for Siberia

varieties perform better :

  • bears fruit on one-year-old wood, blooms before the leaves bloom in May, flowers can withstand frosts down to -3 ° C.
  • The varieties are self-sterile. For good fruit set, it is necessary to have 3-4 mutually pollinating varieties in the garden.
  • Trees bear fruit from 3-4 years after planting as annual seedlings.

The Ussuri plum is moisture-loving, but does not tolerate even slight waterlogging. The root system is dense and superficial. Trees are watered during the period of growth (June), ovary growth (July) and fruit filling (August).

Karzin plum for Siberia

Varieties of Karzin plum

less common.

The disadvantage of Ussuri and American plums is damping off of tissues and organs in winter

Plum-cherry hybrids for Siberia

Plum-cherry hybrids are hybrids of sand cherries with plum species.

  1. Bushes up to 2–3.5 m high with a crown diameter of up to 3 m. They begin to bloom later than the Ussuri plum, blooming for 5–9 days. Flowers tolerate frosts down to -2°C.
  2. They are not winter-hardy enough in Siberia; they freeze and damp out more than plums, so they bear fruit unstably. Due to insufficient winter hardiness, cherry plums are grown in stale form (only varieties with flexible branches are suitable).
  3. They bear fruit 2-3 years after planting. The fruits resemble plums in taste, shape, and size.


Photo: hybrid of Ussuri plum and cherry plum - hybrid cherry plum, or Russian plum

Plum varieties for Siberia

The success of planting and growing plums in Siberia will depend on the correct choice of plum variety.

Yellow Khopty

An old variety, the tree is highly winter-hardy, vigorous, with a sparse crown.

  • Fruiting is slightly periodic, yield is 8–12 kg/tree (up to 40–60 kg).
  • The fruits are yellow, round, with a groove, weighing 13–15 g (up to 25–32 g), sweet and sour taste with a bitter skin.
  • The fruits ripen at the end of August, after picking they quickly lose their presentation and do not tolerate transportation well.


Photo: Plum variety for Siberia Yellow Khopta

Pride of the Urals

The only variety of Ural selection that is successful in Siberia.

  • The tree is frost-resistant, resistant to damping off, and fruit buds may freeze after a thaw.
  • The crown is low, not thickened.
  • The yield is almost annual, average (5–12 kg/tree), the fruits are very large – 25–20 g (up to 40 g), dark burgundy, fresh-sweet, with a loose pit.
  • They ripen in the third ten days of August and are stored for 2–3 days.
Manchurian beauty

In winter hardiness it is inferior to Zheltaya Khopty, but the variety is more drought-resistant.

  • The plant is a natural dwarf; the bush is weak-growing, thickening, the shoots are dark brown.
  • Early fruiting, bears fruit periodically.
  • Productivity – 4–12 kg/tree (up to 16–32 kg).
  • The fruits are round, weighing 15–18 g (up to 25–35 g), dark burgundy with a bluish bloom, dessert taste, and do not lose their appearance for a long time.
  • They ripen in early August.


Photo: Plum variety for Siberia Manchurian beauty

Baikal amber

Winter-hardy, damping-resistant, vigorous, unthickened tree.

  • Fruiting occurs annually after favorable winters.
  • Productivity – 10–15 kg/tree (up to 20 kg).
  • The fruits are yellow with a slight blush, large (15–25 g), excellent taste, dense, with a free seed.
  • They ripen at the end of August and are stored for 3–5 days.
Altai anniversary

Winter hardiness is satisfactory, the tree is vigorous.

  • The variety is not drought-resistant enough and is prone to periodic fruiting.
  • Productivity – 8–12 kg/tree (up to 40 kg).
  • The fruits are orange-red, good taste, average weight – 12–18 g (up to 20–35 g), universal purpose.
  • They ripen in late August – early September.


Photo: Altai Jubilee plum variety for Siberia

Oyuna

It is characterized by satisfactory frost resistance of the tree.

  • The variety is resistant to damping off of the bark and cambium, but the buds can be severely damaged by frost after a thaw in the second half of winter.
  • The tree is medium-sized, slightly dense.
  • Productivity – 6–27 kg/tree.
  • Fruits weighing 19–27 g, round, yellow with blush, with a detachable stone, universal purpose.
  • They ripen in late August – early September.


Photo: Plum variety for Siberia Oyuna

Plum varieties unsuitable for Siberia

Gardeners of the Novosibirsk region should know that in the snowy zones of the region (as well as in the Kemerovo region) many varieties of Altai selection fail

.

Varieties freeze slightly

:

  1. Peresvet,
  2. Vika,
  3. Timoshka

Varieties supported

:

  1. Chemalskaya,
  2. Chemal's gift,
  3. Chemal souvenir,
  4. In memory of Putov and others.

Most varieties of the Ural selection are completely unsuitable for Siberia

  1. Shershnevskaya,
  2. Uvelskaya,
  3. Uyskaya,
  4. Kuyashskaya

Ural varieties are susceptible to a complex of winter damage:

  • freezing of the aboveground part,
  • especially annual growth and flower buds after thaws,
  • damping off.

These varieties cannot be recommended for cultivation in the Novosibirsk region.


Photo: Ussuri plum, Variety “Ural prunes”

Growing plums in Siberia

Plum agricultural technology should be aimed at ripening shoots:

  1. do not abuse nitrogen fertilizers and fertilizing,
  2. do not water the plants after harvesting,
  3. add wood ash more often.
Plum is frost-resistant, withstands frosts well down to -40...-42°C, especially in the first half of winter

In combination with low temperatures, the plum suffers from drying out by winds, especially its immature annual shoots. _____________________________________________________________________

CULTIVATION OF SEED CROPS IN SIBERIA: MYTHS AND REALITY


Photo: Plum agricultural technology in Siberia should be aimed at ripening shoots

Damping off plum

Damping out of fabrics is observed almost every year. The reason is prolonged exposure of plants to temperatures close to 0°C, with a thick layer of loose snow or when snow falls on unfrozen soil.

Damping off is winter damage in which the bark and cambium at the base of the trunk and skeletal branches die off
  • In weathered plants, the cambium and bark are brown, but the wood remains healthy.
  • Damping off can be focal or circular.
  • The branches (trunks) withered from below first bloom, may bloom, but subsequently wither.
  • Damping off is more dangerous than freezing; most often, dampened branches or the entire tree die.

Damping off should be distinguished from freezing .

When freezing, on the contrary, the wood in the upper part of the tree darkens. Frozen branches, wholly or partially, do not bloom; the tree is able to recover


Photo: Freezing the soil in tree trunk circles helps prevent damping off

Fighting damping off

Freezing the soil in the tree trunk circles, at the base of the trunks, in any available way helps prevent damping off:

  1. adding crushed stone to the root collar in the fall;
  2. installing high - above the snow level - barrels with a capacity of 200 liters next to the tree (A.G. Kudryavtsev’s method). Barrels can be laid on their sides with the bottom towards the base of the barrel;
  3. when the snow height is more than 1 m, the method of Gorno-Altai gardeners is recommended: tree trunks are protected with a casing made of wood, tin, or any pipe with a diameter of 40-50 cm, the height is within the boundaries of the snow cover. The trunk to this height must be freed from branches. The top of the casing is covered with fabric or tin to prevent snow from getting into the casing (“dry wintering” of the trunk). The base of the casing is buried 10 cm into the ground.
  4. It is effective to compact the snow 3-4 times (trampling the tree trunk circles) after the first snowfalls, starting from a snow depth of 15-20 cm. You cannot rake snow at the beginning of winter, this can lead to freezing of the roots.

How to prevent plums from dampening off (video)

Sergey Tsytskunov, agronomist, head of the fruit and berry nursery “1000 roses”, talks in the video about what measures to take to avoid damping off of the plum tree in Siberia.

Planting plums in Siberia

When placing plums, take into account the nature and strength of growth. Select a place and suitable soil, annual seedlings. Planted in spring.

Landing place

Plum is heat-loving and undemanding to moisture. Therefore, the plum should be planted in a place protected from the winds, in the sun, insulating the soil (add sand when planting).

  • The upper parts of slopes are suitable for planting plums: the slope is no more than 3-8° with southern, southwestern and western exposure.
  • In steppe regions, individual microzones with less snow are suitable.
  • In areas with little snow, plums are planted on flat surfaces.
  • Forest areas and places with early and deep snow are problematic.

Groundwater should not be closer than 1.5 m from the soil surface.

The best time to plant plums

In Siberia this is spring, or at least early autumn.


Photo: The best time to plant plums in Siberia is spring

Soil for planting

  • Chernozems, chestnut, and gray forest soils are suitable for plums.
  • In terms of mechanical composition, they are sandy loam, medium and light loamy, well heated.

Planting holes are prepared with a depth of up to 50 cm and a diameter of 60-100 cm.

  1. Organic fertilizers are placed in the lower third of the pit (8-15 kg for infertile soils and no more than 3-4 kg for fertile soils), 200-300 g of superphosphate, 100-150 g of potassium fertilizers, up to 50 g of fluff lime and everything is mixed with the soil.
  2. On heavy soils, add 1 bucket of sand.

Plum seedlings

Plum seedlings can be self-rooted and grafted (for SVG 11-19, sand cherry).

  1. Plums are vigorous plants, so it is advisable to purchase and plant annual seedlings.
  2. Biennials are considered non-standard, they always have a root system that is severely damaged during digging, and they take root less well.

____________________________________________________________________

SEEDLINGS: HOW TO CHOOSE AND PLANT CORRECTLY

The optimal distance when planting plum seedlings from other trees is 2-3 m

When planting, seedlings are shortened:

  1. If the root system is severely damaged during digging, and the crown is powerful, remove up to 50% of the length.
  2. If the above-ground part is compact and the roots are well developed - no more than 30%.

To guarantee the preservation of the variety when it freezes, we can recommend deep planting of the seedling, that is, 10-15 cm deeper than the root collar. In this case, the plum “goes to its roots”, and after freezing, branches of the cultivated variety will grow, not the rootstock.

Watering after planting

  • After planting, water (3-4 buckets per plant) and mulch the soil with organic matter.
  • The new plum plant is watered until it survives completely.


Photo: To preserve plums during freezing, we can recommend deep planting of seedlings

Planting plum on the hills

In low areas and places where there is more than 80 cm of snow , it is recommended to plant on hills and ridges 40-50 cm high and 180-200 cm wide at the base.

  1. In spring or autumn, apply fertilizers to an area with a diameter of 200 cm (30-40 kg of organic matter, 200-400 g of ammonium nitrate, 800-1200 g of superphosphate, 150-300 g of potassium salt).
  2. Dig to a shovel's depth, then create a mound of soil mixed with sand and gravel.
  3. A hole is made in the middle of the hill, with fertile soil placed closer to the center, and sand and gravel added to the periphery.

Planting plums in boxes

Planting in boxes without a bottom - for snowy places .

Boxes measuring 1x1 m and 60 cm high, made of wood, slate, iron sheets and other materials (or barrels cut in half) are filled with soil mixture and plums are planted.

Unacceptable for Karzin plum, whose roots may freeze


Photo: in snowy places, plums are planted on hills and in boxes

Plum care

Plum trees are short-lived: in a grafted culture they bear fruit for 12-15 years, in their own roots - up to 25 years. In the spring, almost every year, plum trees (bushes) require restoration.

Formation

  1. The ideal plum varieties are those that bear fruit slightly periodically and form a good annual growth every year. Such trees require almost no shaping. sanitary pruning should be carried out for them (old branches that do not have growth, are sick and broken).
  2. Varieties prone to overload and periodic fruiting can be pruned once every 2-3 years quite heavily. Old trunks are cut out (no more than 25-30% of the total crown volume). The annual growth is not shortened (the bulk of the harvest is concentrated on it). The wounds after pruning are covered with garden varnish.
  3. Severely frozen branches (black inside) are cut back to live, slightly damaged wood; fruiting after severe freezing is not desirable; flowers should be removed. Trimmed plants require feeding and watering in the spring.

Re-grafting of plum

Cuttings of another variety can be grafted into the plum crown.

Rules for successful plum grafting:

  • re-grafting of plums is carried out early (before May 1-5) and in a short time (5-7 days);
  • for grafting (as a rootstock), it is better to choose 1-year-old branches, or, in extreme cases, 2-year-old ones;
  • plum graftings are short-lived; to create a “tree-garden” the graftings should be updated almost annually;
  • The scion is characterized by weak fusion with the rootstock in the first year; at the beginning of intensive growth, it is advisable to tie the growing shoots to a stake to prevent them from being broken off by the wind;
  • Plums exhibit variety-rootstock incompatibility much more often than apple trees; To guarantee the fixation of the variety, graft it onto different varieties - rootstocks.


Photo: In the spring, almost every year, the plum requires restoration

Feeding

  1. Pre-planting refueling lasts a tree for 3-4 years.
  2. With the beginning of fruiting, up to 7 kg of organic matter and 100 g of ash are added annually.
  3. Instead of ash, you can add 70 g of superphosphate and potash fertilizers.
  4. Every 2-3 years, add 50 g of lime - fluff.

Watering

From the age of 2 years, plums are watered sparingly.

Excessive watering, especially in combination with excess nitrogen fertilizers, causes increased growth, strong development of aphids, poor ripening of shoots and damping off in winter
  • Young, developing plants are watered more heavily (2-3 times), watering is stopped in August.
  • Fruit-bearing trees are watered 1-2 times, always to fill the fruit.
  • Watering is stopped after harvesting the fruits.


Photo: After harvesting, plums are not watered

Description and characteristics of the best self-pollinating plum varieties

Self-pollinating varieties have long won the recognition of gardeners. For a good harvest, one tree is enough, which is good news if you have a small plot. According to summer residents, among self-fertile varieties it is worth paying attention to the following varieties:

• “Bogatyrskaya”;

• "Viola";

• “Memory of Timiryazev.”

The plum variety "Bogatyrskaya" is considered one of the most productive among the self-fertile varieties. The tree bears fruit early; within five years after planting you can collect at least three buckets of plums. Productivity increases gradually, reaching up to 60 kg per tree. An adult tree produces at least 80 kg of fruit. The fruits are large, elongated, dark purple in color, sweet and sour. They tolerate transportation well. The massive harvest occurs in the second half of August. The tree is vigorous, can withstand frost, and is resistant to major diseases, which is good for the middle zone climate.

Of the blue plums, one can distinguish the variety "Viola" . The tree will delight you with fruits in three years; on average, you can collect up to three buckets of harvest. Medium-sized plums, sweet and sour, quite juicy. The variety is medium-sized, frost-resistant, rarely affected by diseases and pests. The fruits tolerate transportation well. Plums are grown in the middle zone. In dry summers, problems arise with cultivation, the ovaries fall off, and the fruits become smaller.

variety “Pamyat Timiryazev” is considered no less productive . The tree can withstand temperatures down to -30 °C; at lower temperatures, the buds suffer and the yield decreases. Plum fruits appear in the fourth year of cultivation. The average yield of a young tree is from 10 kg, with age it increases to three buckets. The fruits are medium in size, yellow, with a characteristic reddish blush. The pulp is dense, juicy, easily separated, and has a sweet and sour taste. The variety is zoned for central Russia.

In memory of Putov


The crown is medium-height (2.2 m), rounded.
Harvests are annual, from 4 years of age. The fruit size is medium (12 – 14 g), the shape is angular-spherical. The skin is dark red, with a bluish coating. The pulp is orange, medium-dense, juicy, sweet and sour. The bone is semi-detachable. The harvest is ready for harvest in mid-August. Related article:

6 best varieties of blue plums that are easy to grow and will delight you with an excellent harvest

The best productive plum varieties for a summer cottage

When planting a garden, you should take a closer look at productive varieties that consistently bear fruit, despite the vagaries of the weather. Of these, gardeners have identified several of the most promising:

• "Morning";

• “Entertaining”;

• "Valor".

The “Morning” variety produces good yields and is planted as a pollinator for many self-sterile plums. The variety is early ripening, mass harvesting begins in early August. At least a bucket of plums is collected from a young tree; with age, the yield increases to 25 kg. The fruits are yellowish-green in color with a characteristic bloom, juicy, tasty and aromatic. The seed is small, the plum peels well. The tree is low-growing, begins to bear fruit after 4 years of cultivation, and has good immunity. Frost resistance is average, the buds often freeze, but the plum quickly recovers. The variety is recommended for cultivation in the Central region.

Plum “Zanyatnaya” is a relatively new hybrid for the Central and Middle zones. The variety is self-sterile and is planted near pollinators. Productivity reaches three buckets. The fruits are yellow-green, round, and have a sour taste. The color of ripe fruits may change, becoming more orange.

Among the late-ripening varieties, the Valor plum . The tree is self-fertile and requires pollinators. A variety for industrial use, bears fruit consistently and produces at least 30 kg of fruit. The plum is large, dark burgundy, with a characteristic waxy coating. The pulp is pale yellow, juicy and sweet. The bone is easily separated. A universal-purpose variety, mass harvesting begins in the first ten days of September.

Care after landing

The plum tree does not require any special care after planting. You can spray it against diseases and pests after 2 weeks and feed it. But this is more relevant for the spring season. In the fall, such measures can be omitted.

At first, you should not let the soil dry out. The plum tree needs to be watered as needed. At this stage, the tree really needs moisture for successful rooting. If it is dry outside, the plum will not take root in the absence of watering.

Watering and fertilizing

There is no need to water the plum immediately after planting if a sufficient amount of water has been poured into the hole. The soil can be moistened after 4-6 days. But it is necessary to focus on weather conditions, natural precipitation. In spring, when the sun warms up, watering is required more often.

There is no need to feed the plum at first. What was tucked into the pit is quite enough. If no fertilizers were applied, in the spring, after 2-3 weeks, you can water the plum with mullein infusion diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. Additionally, 100 g of superphosphate and 70 g of potassium salt are required. You can replace fertilizing with phosphorus and potassium with complex mineral fertilizers.

In autumn, nitrogen fertilizing, manure, and herbal infusions are prohibited. All this provokes the formation of shoots, which is completely unnecessary before the onset of winter. Every autumn, experienced gardeners make sure to apply potash fertilizers. This promotes active flowering and an excellent harvest. It is important to saturate the trees with potassium precisely in the autumn, when flower buds are being laid for the next season.

Pruning and crown formation

Plum trees need to be pruned annually. It is not necessary to do this immediately after planting. For example, if a seedling is transferred to a site in the spring, formative pruning can be done in the fall. When a plum is planted before winter, there is no need to remove anything. Cutting branches will put additional stress on the tree.

Pruning is carried out when the tree is transitioning or is still dormant. In the spring, this is the time before the buds open, and in the fall, you can focus on the falling leaves. They are guided by the following recommendations:

  1. In the first year, it is enough to trim the central conductor by 10-20 cm, depending on how tall the stem is needed.
  2. In the second year, not only the top is cut, but also the side branches by 10 cm. You can remove up to 1/3 of the length.
  3. In the third and fourth years, it is necessary to further shorten the second-order branches.

Trees should be inspected every year in spring and fall. If there are damaged, diseased or dried branches, they must be removed. Cut shoots cannot be kept on the site. It is better to take them out of the territory and burn them.

Which frost-resistant plum varieties are best to plant in the Moscow region and central Russia

In the middle zone, it is worth taking a closer look at varieties that are highly resistant to diseases and can withstand the vagaries of the weather well. These include plums:

• “Skoroplodny”;

• "Red Ball";

• “Yakhontovaya”.

The Skoroplodnaya plum is considered the best for the Moscow region and the middle zone. The variety is completely self-fertile, bears fruit consistently, and yields are high. The first plums appear in the third year of cultivation; with age, the yield reaches 30 kg per tree. Plums are yellow-red with sweet pulp, large, and transport well. The tree is early ripening, the fruits are harvested at the beginning of August. Frost resistance down to – 40 °C, good immunity.

The “Red Ball” variety is partially self-fertile; yield increases in the presence of pollinators. The first fruiting occurs in the third year of growing the seedling. On average, 18-20 kg are collected from a tree. The fruits are large, red, with yellow juicy pulp, sweet. The variety is resistant to major diseases.

The frost-resistant and early-ripening variety “Yakhontovaya” will delight you with a harvest in three years. The tree is vigorous, partially self-pollinating, and tolerates temperature drops down to -30 °C. The fruits are yellow in color with a characteristic bloom, sweet and sour in taste, large, ripen in the second ten days of August. At least 30 kg are collected from one tree.

The best varieties of self-fertile plums

You can understand which varieties of self-fertile plums are the best by studying their descriptions. In this case, this category includes varieties with the most abundant yield, tasty and presentable plums.

The best varieties of self-fertile plums

  • "President" is an old English variety. Plums ripen by mid-September. The tree grows tall, with a dome-shaped crown. Plums 50-60 g, ovoid with burgundy skin and a bluish bloom. The pulp is dense, yellow in color, even after ripening, the drupe comes off easily. The taste is rated 4.5 points. Known for its resistance to shrub and other diseases and winter hardiness. Transportable, presentable, universal purpose.
  • "Yoyo" is a variety originally from Germany. The harvest ripens at the end of summer or early autumn. The tree grows within 5 meters, the crown is in the shape of a ball. The fruits are large, 45-60 g, ovoid. The rind is dark purple, but the bluish coating makes the cream look blue. The pulp is dense, with a high juice content. The taste is rated 4.5 out of 5. The drupes come away from the pulp without any problems, so the fruit is easy to process. There is immunity to sharka and high winter hardiness.
  • "Anna Shpet" is one of the sought-after self-fertile varieties of plums. Bred in Germany. The tree grows up to 4.5 meters. The crown is thickened, spherical. The leaves grow small. The inflorescences are white, bell-shaped. Plums 40-50 g each, similar in shape to a wide egg. The peel is dark purple, thin with a dense coating. The pulp is yellowish, sweet and sour. The drupe just comes off. Productivity is high, fruiting occurs already 3 years after planting.
  • "Stanley" is a late variety of Hungarian. This is a well-known American species that ripens in early autumn. The trees are medium in height, the crown is not dense, and needs regular pruning. The yield is plentiful. The fruits grow large, weighing approximately 50 g, oval in shape. The peel is purple, the coating is blue. The pulp is dense and juicy. The taste is rated 4.6 points. The drupe comes off without problems in 50% of cases. The variety is distinguished by its winter hardiness and immunity to many diseases, including sharka.

Advice from experienced gardeners

To successfully grow plums in Siberia, in addition to “academic” recommendations, it is extremely useful to listen to the advice of experienced gardeners. It is better to plant plum trees in the autumn. Autumn planting will save time in the spring; do not lose a year if the seedling does not take root (you can replace it with a new one in the spring); a plum tree that has successfully survived the winter will immediately begin to “grow” without wasting energy on adaptation.

Did you know? Slivovitz

is
plum moonshine, and slivyanka
is
wine made from plums.
In “cold” regions, select varieties with a sparse crown for planting - they are easier to care for and easier to cover for the winter. Propagate your favorite varieties yourself using the method of plum grafting onto seedlings from Ussuri or Canadian species that have excellent winter hardiness. Prevent freezing of the ground. To do this you need:

  1. Install empty barrels or tanks with a volume greater than the predicted level of snowfall close to the trees.
  2. Immediately after a snowfall, compact the fallen snow around the trees.
  3. In autumn, scatter crushed stone near the roots of trees.
  4. Using available materials, create an impermeable layer for the roots - insulating the tree trunk circle with burlap or straw.
  5. Build huts from scrap materials for low-growing seedlings.

How to avoid mistakes

Beginner gardeners often act intuitively and make mistakes. Lack of experience can lead to partial loss of the harvest. To prevent this, you need to follow all the advice very carefully and try not to violate agricultural practices.

The most common mistakes include:

  1. Wrong choice of planting dates. You cannot plant plums before frost. If for some reason the deadlines were missed, it is better to postpone the planting to the spring. Even if the seedling is already available, you can place its roots in sand and place it in a cool room. Some gardeners store small seedlings in refrigerators, wrapping the lower parts in a bag of soil. You can bury small plums in trenches, cover them, and plant them in a permanent place in the spring.
  2. Mistakes with the choice of variety. There is no need to try to grow exotic types of plums that grow in the southern regions on your plot. Such planting material does not take root well. Most often it has to be ordered by mail, which is an additional risk. Long transportation is stressful for the tree. Often such plums take a long time to adapt and may not take root. Even if rooting is successful, the tree may subsequently freeze, and the characteristics of the fruits will be far from the declared varieties, since the growing conditions are unsuitable.
  3. Lack of watering and fertilizing. The transplanted plum tree must be watered the first time. This is important for successful rooting. In autumn, when there is enough precipitation, this may not be necessary. Trees need to be fed annually. However, it is not necessary to apply manure every year. But phosphorus and potassium are very important. The yield depends on the degree of saturation with these elements.
  4. Neglecting crown formation. The tree should begin to be pruned in the first year. If you delay the formation of the crown, it will be difficult to correct everything later.
  5. Selection of non-self-fertile varieties. This characteristic must be taken into account. If the variety is not self-fertile, you need to plant plums in pairs. It is desirable that these be 2 different varieties, but with approximately the same flowering period. If it is not possible to plant 2 or more trees at once, it is permissible to graft several varieties onto one.
  6. Failure to comply with the recommended placement of seedlings in the garden plot. Plum does not like thickened plantings. They need to be planted at a distance of 3-4 m from other trees. It is advisable not to sow anything in the tree trunk circle.

Plum grows and develops well in Siberia. You can safely plant it on the site. In general, growing plums in Siberia is not difficult if you initially select the appropriate varieties, as well as plant the tree correctly and properly care for it. The fruit crop should not suffer from frost. Timely insulation of the central conductor and trunk circle will protect the seedlings not only from bad weather, but also from rodents. At the same time, it is very important to regularly feed the plum in order to get an excellent harvest every year.

Fruit tree care

It is recommended to care for plums depending on the climate. In regions with harsh winters, it is worth minimizing the amount of organic fertilizers, soil moisture and trimmings.

Watering

After planting, it is recommended to water the plant every week. Seedlings older than 2 years should be moistened no more than 3 times per season. When choosing the amount of water, it is important to ensure that it gets into the ground to a depth of 30 centimeters. On average, 1 tree should require 4 buckets of water.

Excessive moisture leads to active reproduction of harmful insects. The first watering is carried out in mid-May, the second - after flowering, the third - at the time of fruit ripening. In dry weather, plums should be watered again. This will help them survive the cold winter.

Fertilizer application

If planting work is carried out correctly and there is a sufficient amount of fertilizer, the tree should be fed twice a year. In autumn, it is recommended to use fertilizers that contain a lot of potassium and phosphorus. With the arrival of spring, the crop requires nitrogen and magnesium.

Organic fertilizers can also be used to fertilize plums. Humus, turf, and wood ash are perfect for this purpose. Manure is also actively used.

Tree pruning and shoot removal

In Siberia, it is recommended to prune plums once every 3 years. In this case, it is worth removing dry branches. Sanitary pruning is performed every spring. It involves removing branches that have frozen in winter.

However, experts do not recommend removing more than 30% of the shoots.

To give the tree a neat appearance, it is recommended to trim the side shoots. In this case, it is worth leaving only 1 most beautiful one. In the spring, it is worth cutting off the root shoots, which interfere with the normal development of the crop.

Pest and disease control

In this region, plum trees may suffer from sawfly, aphid, and codling moth attacks. To avoid crop damage, it is worth carrying out preventive treatment in a timely manner using special preparations.

It is recommended to whiten the trunk of the plant with slaked lime. Among folk remedies, chamomile decoction is highly effective. It should be used for spraying crops.

If brown spots appear on the leaves, this may indicate that the plant is infected with clasterosporiasis. Fungicides will help cope with pathology. Birds will help destroy pests. You can place a birdhouse on the drain. However, birds should definitely be fed so that they do not damage the fruits.

Preventing soil freezing

It is recommended to prepare for winter 2 weeks before the cold weather. At the same time, it is worth adding organic fertilizers to the tree trunk circle. To do this, you need to mix wood ash, potassium sulfate, and humus. First, use a shovel to dig up a little and loosen the soil. Then add the nutrient composition and pour 3 buckets of water over the plum.

See also

Description of cherry plum variety July Rose, planting and care rules

Read

After completing the above procedures, the tree should be inspected. It is recommended to trim dry shoots, and remove the raised bark with a scraper or wire brush. It is important to avoid damage to healthy parts of the plum.

To prevent damage to the crop by harmful insects, it should be treated with a prepared solution. This product is sold in specialized stores. To make the composition yourself, it is recommended to mix lime, clay and mullein. If necessary, you should add copper sulfate. For 1 liter of solution take 25 grams of the substance.

Before the arrival of frost, the tree trunk circle is insulated. For this purpose, you can use straw or burlap. If a cold and harsh winter is expected, slate or roofing felt should be laid on the ground. It is recommended to cover a short seedling in a hut. It can be made from available tools.

Pests and diseases of plum

Like many other fruit trees, plums are susceptible to various diseases. To avoid this, in the spring and autumn seasons they are treated with fungicidal preparations.

Table No. 3. Common plum diseases

DiseaseDescription
GommozThe disease manifests itself by the release of resin on the surface of the bark. Various infections easily penetrate through such damage, so it is necessary to clean out all the resin with a knife, and then treat the surface with a weak solution of copper sulfate. After which the damage can be covered with garden varnish.
DwarfismThe disease affects the foliage of the plant - it becomes uneven and very fragile. However, it is useless to fight the problem, so the tree is first dug up and then burned.
Marsupial diseaseA fungal disease in which plum fruits become limp and lack seeds. To avoid such consequences, it is necessary to treat the kidneys in the spring with a solution of copper sulfate.
Hole spotA large number of dark spots appear on the leaves; after a while they fall off and holes remain in their place. It happens that the disease spreads to the fruits and then to the entire tree. As in the previous case, bud treatment will be required in the spring to avoid the spread of this process. Otherwise, the entire fruit tree may quickly die.
Fruit rotThe first signs of the disease are withering of the fruits, then signs of rotting can be found on their surface. All infected fruits are removed, and the tree is treated with a solution of copper sulfate.
SharkaAppears as spots on the foliage. But the main danger is that this is a viral disease that can destroy the entire garden, so the tree is dug up and disposed of by burning.
RustYou can notice golden spots on the foliage, which subsequently become dark, causing the leaves to dry out and fall off. To combat rust, starting in July, trees are sprayed with copper sulfate every week.

Aphids can destroy a fruit tree

The most common plum pests are caterpillars and aphids. It is necessary to treat trees against these unwanted guests before the onset of frost (in September or October). Below we provide recipes for solutions that repel insects.

You can cope with an aphid infestation using an effective folk remedy, the preparation of which will require:

  • onion peel;
  • garlic – 5 heads;
  • laundry soap.

Important tip! To prepare the solution, you need to take only fresh onions and garlic.

The plum can also be treated with chemical compounds from the garden store.

Preparation of the mixture for processing includes the following steps:

  1. It is necessary to prepare the onion skins and finely chop or grate the garlic.
  2. Then you will need to finely chop the laundry soap.
  3. Place all components in a common container.
  4. Then pour about 4.5 liters of boiled water into it.
  5. Leave the solution to infuse for about 60 minutes.
  6. After which it should be strained through a sieve.

When the solution has cooled completely, it is poured into a spray bottle and the plum is treated. Particular attention should be paid to those areas where large numbers of aphids gather.

Important tip! If the tree is severely infested with aphids, it is necessary to use additional treatment with urea.

Caterpillars are no less dangerous pests. To deal with them, the tree is sprayed with a chlorophos solution.

Caterpillar on a plum tree

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