Clematis Miss Bateman. Trimming group, photo and description

Description of the variety and photo

Clematis Miss Bateman was purposefully bred by English breeders in 1871 on the basis of the hybrid variety Jackmany, which received the highest rating at the exhibition in Kensington in the second half of the last century.

Clematis Miss Bateman

When strong supports are installed, this woody vine quickly produces powerful branching shoots about 2.5-3 m long, which gradually compact and harden, securely entwining any vertical frame. In summer, the shrub vine is abundantly covered with large ternary leaves, reaching from 10 to 13 cm in diameter.

Large flattened inflorescences up to 16-17 cm in diameter, have 8 petals of pearl-milky color with delicate light green veins in the center. In the shade, the petals may take on a duller appearance, and in sunlight, noble pearlescent shades can be observed.

The core of the flower with a bunch of stamens has a contrasting dark cherry color, with a diameter of 1.5 cm.

Long-term abundant flowering of an adult plant is observed from the age of 3, usually beginning at the end of June and ending in August. Proper care and timely pruning allow you to see repeated flowering within a season.

This variety of decorative vine tolerates even severe frosts well, which makes it possible to grow clematis in the middle zone, the Moscow region and the Urals, and with a little shelter even in some northern regions, where in winter the temperature drops below -30 degrees.

The advantages of the variety include the following features:

• highly decorative;
• abundant, long-lasting flowering;
• unpretentiousness and ease of care;
• high frost resistance;
• drought resistance;
• life expectancy in one place is about 25 years;
• excellent immunity;
• resistance to diseases and pest attacks;
• good honey plant.

The disadvantages of growing vines include:

• loss of attractiveness when grown in a shaded area;
• the need for protection from strong northern winds and drafts;
• poor tolerance to stagnant moisture and close groundwater.

Characteristics of the variety

Clematis Miss Bateman is considered the most luxurious of all eighteen varieties that were discovered in the nineteenth century by the English breeding specialist Charles Noble. Charles dedicated this name to clematis to his daughter, orchid grower James Bateman. Miss Bateman's clematis is still very popular, although its year of creation is one thousand eight hundred and seventy-one. You just have to look at a photo of clematis to admire it, but imagine what will happen if you see it live, and even in your greenhouse!

Attention! This plant has a ripening period until autumn and may encounter frosts.

Clematis has its own peculiarities, with the help of which the flower is modified. The composition of the cut is second, this species is from the tree genus; during formation, the stems acquire woody bark, thus becoming coarser.

Attention! Clematis Miss Bateman tolerates all frosts, does not require constant care, and also easily tolerates any diseases.

The size of Miss Bateman's clematis reaches up to two and a half meters. To prevent the plant from falling, it needs support. Clematis grabs onto a support, twisting the stems around, it also depends on what kind of support it is, it can be handrails, a wall of a structure, or others. Clematis leaves are medium in size, but the buds are up to fifteen centimeters in diameter. The bud contains eight white petals with a light green stripe in the middle. But the central stamens are a soft brown color, such a contrast is very pleasing to the eye.

Use in landscape design

Clematis Miss Bateman is one of the most popular varieties used in garden and landscape design for various space decoration purposes:

• Great for creating beautiful green arches and decorating the entrance area of ​​a house or garden.
• Can be used for decorative zoning of space by installing a strong vertical support of the required height.
• Provides great decoration and natural shading on hot days for outdoor gazebos, patios or decks.
• Allows you to hide an unattractive wall of a building or structure.
• Widely used as a tapeworm or for making decorative compositions with various shrubs, plants in flower beds and flower beds.
• It can be grown as a hedge.

Breeding and cultivation regions

The author of this variety is the English breeder Charles Noble. This is not the only variety he bred, but one of the most beautiful. Miss Bateman was first introduced to gardeners back in 1871, but has still not lost demand among gardeners around the world. The breeder gave the name to the bred variety in honor of the daughter of James Bateman, a famous creator of orchids. Clematis Miss Bateman can withstand frosts down to -35 degrees without problems and belongs to the 4th winter hardiness zone.

Landing dates

A young plant with a closed root system purchased at a nursery or garden store can be planted in a permanent place throughout the summer. If you purchase a bare-rooted seedling, it is recommended to plant it in the ground before sap flow begins, in early spring, immediately after the threat of frost has passed.

In the southern regions, autumn planting of clematis is allowed, as the plant will have time to adapt to the new location and get stronger before the onset of winter.

Large-flowered plant brethren

Miss Bateman and other large-flowered clematis can be grown almost anywhere.

There are several groups of large-flowered clematis:

1. 1 Patens (spreading clematis). Miss Bateman belongs to this group. Often such plant flowers reach 15 cm and have a variety of colors. These clematis need shelter for the winter. Their flowering period falls in May-June, but re-blooming is possible from mid-summer to autumn.
2. 2 Jacquemin. Characterized by lush flowering. The shrub has a very powerful root system, and the size of the vine can be up to 4 m. When covering the plant for the winter, it is recommended to cut off all shoots to the base. The group includes Gypsy Queen, Jacquemani, Luther Burbank and others.
3. 3 Vicitella. These clematis are characterized by red-purple tones. The size of the flowers is approximately 12 cm. The plant blooms until the first frost, because it has good frost resistance.
4. 4 Lanuginosis. Here the shoots are thin, and their length is no more than 2.5 m. As for the flowers, they are more than 17 cm in diameter. There is a bright stripe in the center of the flower, and the color itself is white or blue.
5. 5 Florida. This clematis is characterized by a wonderful aroma and double flowers, the size of which does not exceed 12 cm.
6. 6 Integrifolia. Such varieties have the appearance of subshrubs, whose shoots are approximately 1.5 m in length, they bloom in June-September and have a variety of colors.

The middle climatic zone is considered the most favorable for the development of clematis.

Landing technology

Clematis Miss Bateman is considered an unpretentious perennial plant, but to plant it you need to carefully choose a place and create a number of conditions.

1. The decorative vine will grow well and bloom profusely in a sunny place without direct scorching rays at midday. It is recommended to choose a location on a hill to prevent moisture stagnation at the roots. It is also necessary to provide protection from strong winds and drafts in advance.
2. It is important to prepare a fertile light soil substrate with neutral acidity based on loam, peat and humus with the addition of wood ash and complex fertilizer.
3. After the soil in the chosen location has thawed and warmed up sufficiently, you can begin preparing a planting hole, the size of which is recommended to be made in the form of a cube with an edge of 60 cm.
4. A drainage layer of at least 10-15 cm made of broken red brick and coarse river sand should be laid at the bottom of the bow.
5. It is also advisable to install a strong, durable support of the desired height in the planting hole for entwining vine shoots.
6. Then the hole must be filled with the prepared soil mixture, approximately half the volume, forming an earthen mound in the center of the planting hole, along which the roots of the seedling should be distributed in different directions.
7. Next, you need to gradually sprinkle the root system with fertile soil, compacting the soil on all sides to fix the seedling in the required position.
8. Now the seedling needs to be thoroughly watered with settled water, and then the resulting voids must be carefully filled. It is advisable at the initial stage to maintain a small depression in the root zone so that the level of the planting hole remains slightly below ground level. Subsequently, as the clematis grows, this depression is gradually filled with fertile soil.
9. It is necessary to ensure that the plant maintains its original depth level and that the lower bud is not hidden in the ground, so after planting you can, if necessary, add additional soil or remove excess soil.
10. In conclusion, the clematis shoot should be carefully directed along the installed support, and the tree trunk circle should be mulched with non-acidic peat, a thick layer of straw or wood chips to protect the roots from drying out and solar overheating.

Planting and requirements for it

It is necessary to remember that although the plant is not picky, it loves fairly bright places, so you need to think about this when planting.

As for the soil, it is better to choose a loamy and loose type of soil that will drain water well and will not stagnate for a long time. It should also be noted that it is better not to plant clematis in soil with high acidity. In addition, it is worth saying that soil with high salinity is also not a good option. Thus, when preparing to plant clematis, it is worth meeting some conditions:

• choose the most illuminated area of ​​the garden;
• choose soil with low acidity and salinity;
• the plant will grow better on a loamy soil type or in loose soil.

Usually seedlings are planted in early spring, but this can also be done in early September. At this time, the rooting of the shrub is more successful.

Since clematis is part of the group of climbing plants, it is better to take care of the plant’s support, which is very necessary during growth, even before planting. The support must be at least two meters in height. There is no need to place the structure too close to the house.

Before planting, it is necessary to check the condition of the vine’s root system. If its roots are quite dry, then they can be soaked in water for a couple of hours.

Then the soil is prepared. You can make the necessary mixture yourself. To do this, peat, sand and humus are mixed in equal parts. You can add about 1 kg of ash to the mixture as fertilizer.

Then a hole is dug, half of which must be filled with the prepared mixture. The remaining part will be needed to cover the roots of the plant up to the root collar. It should be noted that the larger the clematis, the deeper the planting hole needs to be made. This will help protect it from frost.

After planting, the plant must be thoroughly watered and mulched. Peat is suitable for mulching.

What care is needed for clematis miss bateman

Like all plants, for good growth and active flowering, clematis needs proper care. The soil around it needs to be loosened from time to time, weeds removed, and watered regularly.

In the first year after the plant has been planted, the soil should not be fertilized. In addition, if the first buds begin to appear at this time, they must be removed so that all the forces of the bush are directed only to its growth.

One of the important parts of plant care is pruning. Usually it is necessary to prune those branches that for some reason have become dry, as well as damaged branches. Pruning in the autumn is very important, because it plays a role in the future appearance of the vine. That is, one of the main types of pruning is sanitary pruning.

Clematis variety miss bateman is considered a fairly frost-resistant species and can overwinter without shelter. However, in areas where winters are too harsh, it is still worth covering.

To begin with, it is treated and then covered with covering material.

It is very important that it has good breathability. So, the plant will not rot

You can also put an additional layer of dry leaves, sawdust or peat on top of the shelter.

If it still seems that the clematis has not survived the winter, there is no need to dig it up and throw it away right away. Usually, after some time, the old root system begins to produce new shoots.

Clematis propagation

To propagate clematis with large flowers, it is best to use the vegetative method. It is the simplest and quite effective. Clematis can also be propagated:

• by dividing the bush - usually such a seedling quickly takes root and begins to grow actively;
• propagation of layerings. In this case, in the spring it is necessary to separate the side branches and cover them with soil, securing them in place. After a year, the branch takes root and can be cut off from the main bush and planted separately.

If you need to propagate clematis on a large scale, then it is better to do it by cuttings. They can be cut off both from the woody part and from young shoots. You need to take them from the middle part of the branch. The bottom cut is made at an angle of 45 degrees, and the top cut can be made straight. One cutting should have no more than two nodes. For better rooting, they are planted in greenhouses, because there is optimal temperature and humidity.

Care

Clematis of the highly decorative large-flowered variety Miss Bateman is considered unpretentious, but still, for good growth and abundant flowering, the plant should be provided with minimal care:

• During the summer season, provide the seedling with the necessary amount of moisture, avoiding drying out and stagnation of water in the root system.
• In warm weather, it is enough to water clematis once a week, and when drought occurs, you can increase the number of waterings up to 2-3 times.
• It is advisable to use water that has stood for 24 hours, pouring up to 10 liters under each young bush, so that the soil is well saturated to at least 40 cm.
• Adult vines may need more liquid when watering: from 12-15 to 20-25 liters of water.

Top dressing

In the first year of the plant’s life, if planted correctly, there is no need to use additional fertilizing, since a fertile soil mixture is enough for the seedling to grow well for the season.

You can feed Miss Bateman's clematis with Agrecol fertilizer

Starting from the 2nd year, it is necessary to begin adding additional nutrition to the plant, alternating ready-made mineral complexes with organic fertilizers. During the growing season, you can carry out from 3 to 5 nutritional procedures with an interval of at least 3 weeks.

It is important not to apply fertilizer to dry soil, as this can burn the roots. It is advisable to add all additional nutritional components in liquid diluted form the next day or the day after watering.

The first feeding is usually carried out in late spring or early summer to stimulate shoot growth and better budding. Mineral complexes with the addition of nitrogen or organic matter are excellent for this.

As an organic fertilizer, you can use rotted manure or bird droppings, which must be diluted at the rate of 1 part of the substance per 10 liters of water, mixed thoroughly and watered on the plant.

The next feeding with a mineral complex for flowering plants can be carried out during the period of active budding and the appearance of the first flowers, and then immediately after the end of flowering and pruning.

Adult clematis like to be watered with lime milk, made from slaked lime and chalk diluted in water.

Starting in August, the application of organic and nitrogenous fertilizers is stopped so that the plant stops growing new shoots and has time to properly prepare for wintering. You can add phosphorus-potassium mixtures for better ripening of shoots for the winter.

Loosening and mulching

After each watering, it is advisable to loosen the soil of the clematis tree trunk to provide additional aeration of the root system, as well as to prevent the formation of a dense crust on the surface of the earth.

In addition, such a simple procedure allows you to promptly remove emerging weeds that compete with the cultivated plant for nutrients in the soil.

To simplify the weeding procedure, you can mulch the tree trunk circle with a thick layer of mown grass, straw or tree bark. Mulching also helps prevent soil overheating and reduce moisture evaporation, so you will have to water the plant much less often on hot summer days.

Trimming

Decorative flowering vines require proper regular and sanitary pruning. In the first year of life, a young seedling is not allowed to bloom in a new place, removing all the buds that form. During this period, it is important to allow the plant to grow strong roots by autumn, which will be the key to a good winter and subsequent flowering.

In the first year of cultivation, a young seedling is completely pruned for the winter, leaving only 1 small piece of strong shoot, from which branches will grow in the spring.

This clematis variety belongs to the 2nd group of specimens, blooming on last year’s shoots. Therefore, in the fall, it is necessary to shorten all the shoots that have grown during the summer season, leaving 1 to 1.5 m of strong, healthy trunks above ground level. You should also remove all weak, thin and immature stems of the plant at the root.

During the summer season, it is necessary to regularly prune clematis, promptly removing all faded shoots.

In the future, it is advisable to carry out formative and sanitary pruning of an adult plant, cutting out damaged, diseased or weakened branches, and shorten healthy strong shoots of current growth by 1/3.

It is important to trim with a clean, sharp tool and, if necessary, disinfect the blades. If the cut area is large, you can additionally treat the open area with crushed charcoal to close the source of possible infection.

The pruning procedure must be carried out in dry, cool weather, preferably in the early morning or evening.

Shelter for the winter

In the fall, it is advisable to insulate the roots and stems of a young plant, as well as prepare clematis for wintering, for which a number of preventive measures are carried out:

1. At the end of summer or at the beginning of warm autumn, it is advisable to carry out moisture-charging watering of the plant.
2. You can carry out preventive treatment of the plant with fungicidal preparations.
3. After 1-2 days, when the soil at the roots is a little ventilated, it is necessary to loosen the tree trunk circle, sprinkle the ground with ash or crushed charcoal, and then mulch the roots with a thick layer of organic residues. You can use cut grass or fallen leaves, which should additionally be sprinkled with dry humus or compost.
4. When sub-zero temperatures occur, it is recommended to cover the twisted shoots removed from the support with spruce branches or brushwood. In cold northern regions, you can additionally place dry hay or fallen leaves inside the “well” with shoots.
5. Also, during a snowless period of severe winter, you can cover the structure with natural canvas or dense agrofibre. It is not recommended to use film to cover clematis, as condensation may accumulate under it, which will lead to rotting of the seedling shoots.
6. With the early onset of winter, insulation can be carried out by raking fallen snow towards the plant.

Video

You can learn more about this beautiful shrub from the following video:
From early childhood I spent a lot of time working in the garden; knows firsthand how to properly care for most crops. He prefers to devote his free time from work to relaxing outside the city. Dreams of building his own house. I read a lot of books about caring for garden plants. He willingly shares his knowledge with readers.

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Humus is rotted manure or bird droppings. It is prepared like this: the manure is piled up in a heap or pile, layered with sawdust, peat and garden soil. The pile is covered with film to stabilize temperature and humidity (this is necessary to increase the activity of microorganisms). The fertilizer “ripens” within 2-5 years, depending on external conditions and the composition of the feedstock. The output is a loose, homogeneous mass with a pleasant smell of fresh earth.

Clematis Miss Bateman is an artificially bred variety of liana-like plant, part of the large Patens group. This is an ideal option for decorating the local area. This variety of clematis is valued by gardeners and landscape designers for its decorativeness, ease of care, and high resistance to negative external factors.

Reproduction methods

Clematis Miss Bateman is a hybrid variety, so seedlings emerging from seeds do not inherit varietal characteristics. You can propagate the plant yourself only by the vegetative method, growing the required number of specimens using the following methods.

Cuttings

This is the easiest and most preferred method to propagate an existing healthy plant. To do this, it is necessary to first carry out additional foliar feeding of the vine during the budding period, and after a few days, cut suitable cuttings from the young lateral branches of the plant.

The blanks need to be made about 17-20 cm long, so that each cutting has 2-4 buds. It is advisable to make the cut straight, keeping part of the stem about 1.5-3 cm above the bud.

Next, it is recommended to treat the lower part of each cutting with root powder or soak it for several hours in any growth stimulator. The leaves on the cuttings should be cut off by about 2/3 to reduce the evaporation of moisture by the shoot.

Now each seedling needs to be placed in a separate container with a lightly moistened, disinfected substrate. You can use calcined river sand, perlite or vermiculite.

To maintain a warm, moist environment for better rooting, you can cover containers with cuttings with a small film greenhouse or individual plastic caps.

Next, you will need to periodically ventilate the plants, wiping off the condensation that accumulates inside, and promptly moisten the substrate. The roots appear in about 3-4 weeks, after which the seedlings can be transplanted into real soil for growing.

Cuttings can be harvested in the fall, after which the cut shoots should be placed in a layer of damp sand and stored in a cool, dark place until spring, when the rooting procedure begins.

Dividing the bush

This labor-intensive and dangerous process of dividing and rejuvenating an adult plant must be carried out with little experience in floriculture.

To do this, you need to dig the vine out of the ground, carefully free the roots from the soil, and then use a sharp, clean shovel to divide the root ball into parts so that each plot has at least 1 healthy shoot with part of the rhizome. After this, each part needs to be treated with crushed charcoal, and then planted in pre-prepared holes.

By layering

This simple and convenient method of propagating vines is accessible even to beginners in gardening. To obtain a new specimen, you need to carefully bend the side shoot of the mother adult plant to moistened loose soil, pin it with wire, and then sprinkle it on top with light loose soil or sand, in which rooting will take place.

It is advisable to tie the free part of the top of the shoot to a vertical peg, shortening the branch slightly. You should also remove the buds that form on it so that all your efforts can be directed toward rooting the seedling.

During the growing season, it is necessary to monitor the soil moisture in this place, constantly remove weeds and, if necessary, add fresh soil. Next year in the spring it will be possible to separate the young clematis from the mother plant and plant it in a permanent place.

Reviews

Anna, Kimry

I started working with clematis 5 years ago. I planted several unpretentious varieties of two-year-olds, one of them is Miss Bateman. In the first year I cut off all the buds. She carefully looked after the plants and the next year was rewarded with amazingly beautiful flowering. The charming flowers, almost the size of a saucer, are simply mesmerizing. They look great next to the cherry Niobe and the purple Gypsy Queen.

Margarita, Lipetsk

I fell in love with clematis a long time ago. I've collected a good collection. I started with unpretentious varieties. Most of them still live with me. Among them is Miss Bateman. Long flowering, frost resistance, disease resistance - these are its main advantages. Beautiful snow-white flowers delight almost the entire season. I diligently make sure that the roots of clematis do not overheat, our summers can be hot. My clematis respond to my care and quality care with abundant flowering.

Protection from diseases and pests

Despite good immunity, the plant is occasionally subject to some fungal diseases and pest invasions. In order to take the necessary measures in time, you need to regularly inspect the shoots.

When the first signs of the disease are detected, the necessary treatment and preventive measures should be immediately taken.

To prevent the appearance of nematodes on clematis, you can plant calendula next to it, and if the parasite appears, treat it with chemicals such as Bazamida, Nemaphos, Vidata or Nemagon, using them according to the instructions on the package.

To prevent attacks by other pests, you should use traditional methods in the form of spraying with infusion of garlic or tomato tops, and periodically treating with a soap-ash solution.

Clematis, a very decorative and unpretentious variety called Miss Bateman, with proper minimal care, can decorate any garden or summer cottage, delighting the owners with abundant flowering for a long time.

Pests

Loosening and mulching

The easiest way is to mulch the soil around the clematis shoots, then loosening and weeding operations will not be required. A mixture of decomposed peat and half-rotted horse manure is best for mulching. If these components cannot be found, non-acidic peat, crushed tree bark, wood chips and even straw will do.

The main thing is that the roots do not suffer from overheating. Clematis are large water feeders and do not tolerate drying out of the soil even in the top layer. Experienced gardeners plant low annuals at their base, which shade the soil and prevent it from drying out. In this case, regular weeding and loosening will be required after each watering.

Trimming

Clematis is divided into 3 groups according to pruning method:

Clematis of the first group. Flowers appear on last year's shoots. Such species should not be cut off completely, as it will not bloom. And you definitely need to cover it for the winter.

Clematis of the second group. Flowers appear on all shoots, both young and old.

Clematis of the third group. Flowers appear only on young shoots. Therefore, you can safely trim off everything unnecessary. There is no need to cover for the winter.

Advice

For decorative purposes, when tying the branches, you need to direct them in the directions you need. Pruning is carried out in accordance with the selected clematis variety. Usually in the fall, before the onset of cold weather, all stems are cut off.

Abundant and long-lasting flowering of clematis is facilitated by proper pruning in accordance with the desired group; during the growing season, each type of clematis requires its own pruning style. If the flower lives in a flowerpot, then it is better to give it a spherical shape. And excess lateral branches of tall varieties must be removed in a timely manner, as they will burden the support or grow in the wrong direction. The first year, almost no pruning is required, you just need to watch the growth and rarely correct or remove excess.

In vigorous-growing species from the Jacqueman and Vititsella groups, part of the shoots is removed in May, leaving no more than 10.

Dense bushes with chaotically intertwined stems, twisted leaves and buds look unsightly. As they grow, the branches are carefully fanned out over the support and tied up if necessary. Supports for clematis must be strong and stable. The flower grows very much, and after rain it becomes especially heavy. The branches of the bush need garter.

After mass flowering, somewhere at the end of July, the upper faded part of half the stems is cut off, and the rest are shortened to 15 cm. As a result, after a month, many new buds will open on the dormant buds that have grown from the dormant buds, which will evenly cover the bush from bottom to top, and this will last until deep frosts. By pruning, you can enhance the flowering of varieties with weak shoot formation. In the spring, the tops of stems that have grown by 2-3 nodes are pinched. The branches that have grown from dormant buds are shortened again above the 3rd pair of buds. This enhances the branching of the bush.

Diseases and harmful insects of clematis Kakio

Clematis Kakio: photo of the variety

The main diseases of clematis variety Kakio and their symptoms:

• Withering. A fungal infection that causes the vine to dry out; if left untreated, the plant will die.
• Gray rot. Its development occurs during the rains. Signs: brown spots, spores, gray mycelium.
• Powdery mildew. Fungal disease. Signs: the formation of a powdery coating on the part of the plant located above the ground.
• Rust. Rusty spots form on the shoots. Affected shoots may dry out.
• Alternaria blight. Old shoots die, and then the whole plant completely.

Once the diagnosis has been made, Kakio clematis needs to be treated. When fighting wilting, the plant is treated with a solution of the drug “Fundazol”, and powdery mildew is dealt with using copper sulfate. Rust and Alternaria are treated with Bordeaux mixture. Harmful insects: aphids, slugs, spider mites. To destroy them, traditional medicines and insecticides are used.

Review of varieties by group

It is customary to distinguish three main groups of clematis, according to the rules of which autumn pruning is carried out.

The description of the first group should begin with the fact that it unites those varieties that bloom at the junction of spring and summer on shoots left over from last year. For example, we are talking about such types of clematis as Siberian, mountain, and alpine. These plants do not require shelter at all, and therefore they do not even need to be pruned before the onset of frost. However, gardeners still carry out light treatment after flowering, freeing the bush from diseased and weakened branches, as well as shortening shoots in case of excessive height.

The first pruning group includes representatives of the Atragene species group. Its varieties are formed as a result of the selection of various mountain species, for example, Alpine, Korean, Okhotsk, mountain, Siberian, large-petalled and Turkestan. All of them are able to survive frosts down to minus 40 degrees right on the trellis.

The second group of pruning includes clematis, the buds of which bloom both on last year’s shoots and on fresh ones. Plants need to be pruned twice a year. The first pruning is carried out on last year's shoots after the buds have faded. This is done either in May or June, and it is last year’s shoots that are removed – fresh ones should not be touched. The second pruning is carried out in the fall after the first frost, but before the plant has been prepared for wintering. All thin, diseased or weakened shoots of the current year are cut out completely, and strong ones are shortened by one third. Next, all the shoots are rolled up into rings and laid out on the ground, after which the clematis is covered with spruce branches or special material.

Large-flowered hybrids of this group come from the species “Patens”, “Florida” and “Lanutinosa”. In autumn, they are shortened so that 10 to 15 nodes remain on the shoots, which corresponds to a one and a half meter height of the plant. An adult specimen has only 10-12 healthy shoots. We are talking about the varieties “Doctor Ruppel”, “Julka”, “Gladys Picard”, “Akaishi”, “Solidarity”, “Sunset”, “Miss Bay” and others.

The third group of pruning includes clematis, which bloom only with fresh shoots, and the buds open from July to September. We are talking about representatives of the varieties “Viticella”, “Integrifolia”, “Orientalis”, “Jacman”. The shoots are shortened to the maximum extent possible to ensure abundant flowering next season. The shoots are trimmed so as to leave only 2-3 nodes, moving from the ground. If clematis has not yet passed the second year of life, then severe pruning is recommended for it, regardless of which group it belongs to. In this case we are talking about the varieties “Warsaw Night” (or “Warsaw Nike”), “Vititsella”, “Pink Fantasy”.

Combined pruning is recommended for some clematis of the Lanuginosa subspecies. The fact is that in June the buds open on last year’s shoots, and in mid-summer they bloom on current branches. It is necessary to combine pruning of the second and third groups. In autumn, fresh shoots are shortened a little and put under cover, but old branches are almost completely eliminated as soon as they bloom. According to another principle of combined pruning, shortening occurs in such a way that three tiers are formed.

Preparing for winter

Preparation is carried out when sub-zero temperatures occur. The mulch and sand from the root collar are carefully raked and the base of the bush is sprayed with a solution of iron sulfate. New pre-disinfected sand is poured. To insulate the root collar, peat or well-rotted manure is poured onto it.

The shoots cut and removed from the support are twisted into a ring and pressed to the soil. Spruce branches are placed below and above and the structure is covered with non-woven material.

Important! A gap is left at the bottom of the shelter for air circulation. In spring, clematis opens gradually, the plant begins to grow very early at a temperature of +5°C. At this time, the shoots must be lifted, inspected, and weak and damaged ones must be cut off.

Overwintered bare shoots still have nothing to cling to the support, so they should be independently distributed and tied to the support. The sand in the root part is replaced with new one. The soil, as in the autumn, is sprayed with a copper-containing preparation

At this time, the shoots must be lifted, inspected, and weak and damaged ones must be cut off. Overwintered bare shoots still have nothing to cling to the support, so they should be independently distributed and tied to the support. The sand in the root part is replaced with new one. The soil, as in the autumn, is sprayed with a copper-containing preparation

In spring, clematis opens gradually, the plant begins to grow very early at a temperature of +5°C. At this time, the shoots must be lifted, inspected, and weak and damaged ones must be cut off. Overwintered bare shoots still have nothing to cling to the support, so they should be independently distributed and tied to the support. The sand in the root part is replaced with new one. The soil, as in the autumn, is sprayed with a copper-containing preparation.