Kishmish grapes. Description of the variety, photos, reviews: Radiant, Black, Green, Zaporozhye, Red


Kinds

Kishmish has been known since ancient times. Previously, it was widespread in the countries of Central Asia, since it is a very heat-loving variety. Subsequently, it was cultivated in various countries and adapted to other climatic conditions.

Almost all varieties of sultanas have stuffed clusters, some weighing up to 1 kg. The berries are round or oval, the flesh is dense, crispy.

The Kishmish grape (variety description, photos, reviews can be found below in the article) is a seedless crop, and this is its advantage.

Some types are suitable for producing high-quality raisins:

  • Kishmish Radiant. High-yielding variety, medium ripening period. The taste is harmonious with a light nutmeg aroma. The clusters are large, cylindrical-conical, the shoots ripen well, and disease resistance is high.
  • Kishmish Black. An ancient variety with a medium ripening period. The clusters are cylindrical-conical, sometimes winged, the berries are medium-sized, flattened at the base. The taste is high and the yield is also high. Like all sultana varieties, it is poorly adapted to frost.
  • Kishmish Zaporozhye. This species ripens early, after 120 days. The conical shape of the brush has wings on the sides. I/years with dark red flesh, pleasant to the taste. The variety has high fruitfulness, so it requires constant rationing and care.
  • Pink. A late ripening variety with beautiful, elegant tassels. The berry is small, oval, and has fleshy-juicy pulp. The ripening period lasts up to 140 days. Suitable for warm southern regions.


Kishmish grapes have several types

  • Veles. An early ripening hybrid table variety. The first bunches are ready in 100 days. The bunch is loose, but massive; with good pollination, the weight reaches 1 kg. The color of the berries is bright pink.
  • Nutmeg. A hybrid variety created by combining Muscat of Alexandria and White Kishmish. The growth of the bush is powerful, the ripening of the vine is very good.

Medium-sized grape clusters have a cylindrical-conical shape, without wings. The berry is juicy, has a strong aroma and taste of nutmeg, the skin is thin. A good table variety, suitable for fresh consumption and for making sultanas.

Where do raisins grow?

Central Asia is considered the birthplace of the plant. The main areas where sultanas grow are Crimea, the North Caucasus, Dagestan, Kuban, and Stavropol.

Kishmish belongs to the southern crops, but breeders have developed recommendations for growing it in central Russia and the Moscow region, in Siberia and the Far East. An important condition for growing in these regions is to help the grapes survive the winter.

Reference. Thanks to the special flexibility of the Kishmish vines, they are placed on arbors and arches. This allows the bunches to ventilate and also serves as a decoration for the garden plot.

Preparation of cuttings

Kishmish grapes (variety description, photos, reviews can be read in this article) propagate vegetatively. There is no particular difference in how to plant, cuttings or seedlings. The advantage of seedlings in comparison with chibouks is their greater survival rate.


Preparing grape cuttings for planting

And also, planting grape seedlings provides the gardener with a gain over using cuttings for at least a year. The adaptability of chibouks or cuttings is 60–70%, and of seedlings – up to 100%. But there is also an advantage to planting from cuttings.

Bushes grown from them are more durable and productive than bushes grown from seedlings. Therefore, what planting material to choose is a matter for the amateur gardener.

Depending on the type of planting material, timing and methods of planting, the preparation of cuttings and seedlings is different:

  • A cutting is a section of a mature vine that has healthy buds (eyes). Cuttings can be prepared in the fall, during autumn pruning of vines.
  • A seedling is grape bushes grown from cuttings at home or on a personal plot in a special “school” of cuttings.

When planting cuttings in spring, a new cut is made on them 2 mm below the node (bud). The cut should be sloping away from the bud. After this, it is soaked in water for 2–3 days. If desired, you can pre-soak it for half an hour in sodium humate for effective growth of the root system.

Seedlings grown at home or purchased from gardeners must have well-developed roots. If the planting material was grown at home in peat cups, it can be replanted immediately. And seedlings purchased from gardeners should be soaked in water for 1–2 days.

Grapes can also be grown on a loggia for its landscaping. For this purpose, varieties that are unpretentious in care are suitable, for example, sultanas King Ruby, Century, descriptions of varieties, photos and reviews of which are recommended to be studied before planting.

Positive reviews

Advantages:

healthy, affordable, tasty

Flaws:

contains a lot of sugar, if green it means unripe

Quiche is not always available in stores, but when it is, it is the perfect berry and, so to speak, your favorite fruit.

  • absence of seeds;
  • good taste;
  • availability - usually cheaper than all other grapes;
  • present on shelves almost all year round;
  • rich in vitamin C;
  • prevents the formation of blood clots;
  • prevents the development of caries;
  • slows down the aging process;
  • useful for colds, including throat diseases;
  • recommended for use in case of hair loss;
  • fights heartburn;
  • sour when green;
  • You cannot eat these grapes if a person suffers from diabetes (and it has a high sugar content).

The child loves quiche-mish. It's seedless and you don't have to struggle to eat it. The main thing is to choose green-yellow bunches. Because yellow ones are sweet and green ones are sour.

When it is on our table, it is eaten very quickly)

I’ve never tried to heat-treat grapes, but I’ve heard that it makes very tasty jam. Since we live in the northwestern region, it doesn’t grow here, we only buy it in stores. And the cost ranges from 85 to 180 rubles depending on the time of year. It's a little expensive as a raw material for jam.

I recommend this berry fruit to everyone. He is incomparable! Bon appetit!

Advantages:

Sweetness, no seeds, thin peel, benefits

Flaws:

Calorie content, not always easy to find in the store

I adore raisin grapes; in fact, I prefer not to eat other grapes at all, unless they come straight from the garden.

I fell in love with sultanas with all my soul as a child, there are no seeds - life is a success, nothing will grow in my tummy). By the way, I liked the black one more, no wonder - it is much sweeter. And as children, we all have a sweet tooth.

Over the years, I still love sultanas, but now I prefer the white variety, it is moderately sweet and moderately sour. the perfect combination - thin peel, pleasant softness, sweet and sour taste, and what a smell.

My younger brother is happy when I buy sultanas, but so far he loves black ones just as much as I did as a child and he is more pleased with the lack of seeds, it seems to be a family thing).

Advantages:

tasty and healthy

Flaws:

didn't find it

I really love fruits. Quiche-mish grapes, in my opinion, are considered a fruit, not berries, but my daughter constantly calls grapes berries.

Even my daughter has already realized how delicious grapes are, and not just any grapes, but quiche-mish.

Such tasty and juicy grapes are grown in warm countries, definitely not here in Russia, they are fertilized well, which is why they turn out so tasty and rich, filled with sweet juice.

I assume that such grapes are still useful, and I think that there are no chemicals in them, they are a natural product, although maybe I’m wrong.

But I would still like to note that this particular grape is more popular than all other grape varieties. People love it because no other fruit can replicate its taste. These grapes also make excellent tasty wine. Recommendation for wine lovers and winemakers.

In addition, this quiche-mish grape is very healthy, it gives the body energy, the vitamins it contains strengthen the immune system. But, under no circumstances eat these grapes unwashed, otherwise you will suffer from terrible indigestion.

The price of grapes is more or less average. In principle, most people can afford to buy this grape variety. Buy it, you won't regret it!

Grapes are available to everyone, and in warm countries they are eaten absolutely free, their climate is so favorable for the development and growth of grapes in large quantities. You can’t grow it here in Russia. It's a shame, of course.

Preparing the soil and planting site

In southern regions with a warm, mild climate and shallow soil freezing in winter, planting material can be planted both in spring and autumn. In climates with cold winters, they are planted only in spring.

Spring planting is best done immediately after the end of frost, when there is a lot of moisture in the soil. This will create favorable conditions for rapid growth of the root system. Late planting, especially in the arid south, gives worse results.

In spring, cuttings are planted when the soil inside warms up to +10–12°C. In the southern regions this is approximately the end of March–early April, and in the northern regions it is the end of April–early May. A good guide to the time for planting cuttings is the beginning of swelling of the buds of the grape bushes.

Kishmish grapes are always sheltered for the winter, so it is better to plant them in a trench, which should be prepared in advance. The optimal depth is 30-40 cm, width is 60-80 cm. The row spacing, or distance between trenches, should be at least 2–25 m.

These parameters will ensure normal development of the root system and sufficient volumes for watering and fertilizing. When preparing trenches and installing trellises, they should be positioned in the north-south direction. In this case, the rays of the sun at sunrise first illuminate one side of the trellis, at zenith they illuminate both sides, and at sunset - the other side of the trellis.

Kishmish grapes (a description of the variety, photos, reviews of planting methods can be found in the article) is a plant with powerful, long vines. The optimal distance between future bushes should be at least 4–6 m.

This distance is necessary when planting in horizontal trellises. If it is combined, then the distance between the bushes can be reduced.

When organizing a vineyard, you should remember that the larger the trellis area, the greater the number of shoots that can be placed on it and, accordingly, the greater the yield. On low-fertility soils, bushes are planted more often, and on rich and irrigated soils - less often.

Many gardeners grow grapes in a wall-mounted manner. In this case, you should adhere to other parameters:

  • If the height of the wall or fence allows you to place the crowns of the bushes in several tiers, the distance between the bushes can be reduced to 0.75–1 m.
  • On high walls with the crown placed in one tier, the distance between the bushes should be 1.5–2 m.

To form arbors when planting vigorous bushes, which include sultana varieties, the distance between rows should be at least 4–5 m, and between bushes up to 2 m.

The planting depth of the bush depends on natural conditions and the proximity of groundwater. In southern, arid regions, as well as on sandy, rocky soils, planting is carried out to a depth of at least 50 cm. In northern regions, places with wet soil - 30–40 cm.

In the spring, before planting, superphosphate mixed with rotted humus is added to the trench. You should not get carried away with large doses to avoid burns to the root system.

History of origin and contribution of the variety to selection

This hybrid variety was bred in the 80s of the last century by breeders of the Moldavian Research Institute of Viticulture and Winemaking NPO “Vielur” by crossing the American table variety “Cardinal” with “Pink Kishmish”.


Grape varieties that served as parent forms: “Cardinal” (left) and “Kishmish pink” (right)

After successfully carried out state tests, in 2004, “Radiant Kishmish” was officially registered in the State Register of the Russian Federation and approved for cultivation in two regions: the North Caucasus and the Lower Volga, where soil and climatic conditions allow the variety to maximize its potential. This type of crop is highly valued by farmers and gardeners not only in its homeland - in Moldova, but also in Belarus, Ukraine and in our country: on the South Coast, in the Rostov region and the Krasnodar region.

Thanks to a number of advantages obtained from the parent forms, “Kishmish radiant” is actively used as a donor of valuable qualities not only by professionals, but also by amateur breeders to develop new varieties of the crop. Practical results of the work of the famous enthusiast V.N. Krainov in collaboration with specialists from the All-Russian Research Institute of Viticulture and Winemaking named after. Ya. I. Potapenko" delight gardeners in many post-Soviet countries. The most popular descendants of “Kishmish radiant” are: “Preobrazhenie”, “Victor”, “Anyuta” and “Nizina”.

You can learn more about the characteristics of the variety from the video filmed by an experienced Ukrainian winegrower:

Seedling

On the day of planting, strong seedlings with a well-developed root system are selected. All roots should be removed, with the exception of those that have developed at the base on the two lower nodes. If they are too long or elongated, they should be shortened to 15–20 cm immediately before planting in the hole.

You can see developed shoots on the seedling. Leave 1–2 of the strongest and best located ones, the rest are removed by cutting them diagonally along with the knot.


For planting, you should choose seedlings with a good root system

All work on sorting and preparing seedlings for planting should be carried out in a short time to avoid drying out of the roots. The shorter the period of time from taking the seedling, its transportation to planting, the better they will take root.

Landing algorithm

Seedlings are planted in holes. They are made in size 80*80 cm. The depth of each is from 70 to 80 cm, while the depth of the trench is not taken into account. Loose soil, well fertilized with humus, is poured onto the bottom in the form of a small mound, and the roots of the seedling are placed on it.

Then the hole is filled halfway with earth and compacted. The seedling is watered with water, at least 1–2 buckets. After absorption, cover with soil again. In this case, the neck of the seedling should be below ground level, and the upper eye on the shoot should be near the surface, but 1–2 cm below the level of the trench.


Planting a grape seedling

When grapes are planted along a wall, the seedlings are given a slightly inclined position, pointing the top towards the wall.

Care

Young bushes are very sensitive to adverse weather conditions. They suffer from both a lack of moisture and an excess of humidity and rain. Weakened bushes in the first years after planting later begin to bear fruit.

The main tasks when growing young bushes:

  • Forcing their growth at the beginning of the growing season.
  • Suspending the growth of shoots, starting in the second half of summer, for their full ripening.


For grape growth, it is important to loosen the soil.
To achieve these goals, you should:

  • Carry out timely loosening of the soil, preventing it from drying out and hardening. It should be constantly loosened.
  • Destroy weeds, as they greatly impede the growth of a young plant.
  • Timely combat pests and diseases.
  • Provide timely hydration and feeding.

When planting well-developed seedlings in spring, they are not hilled. Bushes can be covered with fabric from the scorching sun in the southern regions during the daytime.

Feeding and watering

Kishmish grapes (variety description, photos, reviews contain many useful tips for beginning winegrowers) are watered depending on climatic conditions. Watering also depends on the depth of groundwater. The higher they are, the less often you water. Young vineyards usually require more watering than fruit-bearing ones.

After the plants take root and the growth of the vine reaches 10 cm, watering is combined with fertilizing.

The schedule for watering and fertilizing grapes (for the southern regions), compiled taking into account fruit-bearing bushes:

DeadlinesRoot feedingWatering
When the vine "cries"ammonium nitrateBefore the buds open
5–6 days before the flowers bloomammonium nitrate – 25 g,
superphosphate – 50 g,

potassium chloride – 15 g

2 – 3 waterings every 10–15 days, taking into account precipitation
Budding periodammonium nitrate – 25 g,
superphosphate – 50 g,

potassium chloride – 15 g

From June 5 to June 20, brushes bloomNoNo
After floweringammonium nitrate – 10 g
superphosphate – 30 g

potassium chloride – 5 g

Abundant watering
Before the berries begin to ripensuperphosphate – 30 g
potassium salt – 15 g
Water according to the weather, but do not get carried away so that the berries do not acquire a watery taste (no more than 2–3 times)
At the end of JulySuperphosphate – 10 g
Potassium chloride – 3 g
Ripening of berries (approximately until the end of July)No
Early AugustNoAt the end of August, “emergency watering”, in case of a dry summer
SeptemberNoNo
Before winter (before shelter)Superphosphate – 80 g
Potassium chloride – 20 g

Ammonium nitrate – 20 g.

Abundant winter watering

Mineral fertilizers are applied to the soil, mixed with the soil, and then watered. It is better to plant young seedlings separately from fruit-bearing bushes , since excessive watering can cause poor survival rates for them.

Feed young bushes according to the data given in the table. The weight of fertilizers is calculated for 10 liters of water. All watering of fruit-bearing bushes should be plentiful. So, when growing in trenches up to 30 cm deep, the irrigation norm is taken to fill the trench twice with water.

In addition to chemicals, you should feed the bushes with organic fertilizers; it is better to do this in the fall. In addition to root feeding, foliar feeding should be carried out during the growing season. It is performed by spraying the bushes with an aqueous solution of microelements.

ElementsFertilizersApplication rate, g/l
BorBoric acid, Borax1,5–2,0
ManganeseManganese sulfate
Potassium permanganate
1,5–2,0
MolybdenumAmmonium molybdenum0,1–0,5
ZincZinc sulfate0,3–0,5
MagnesiumMagnesium sulfate0,1–0,5
NitrogenAmmonium sulfate3,0–5,0
PhosphorusSuperphosphate3,0–5,0
PotassiumPotassium chloride1,5–2,0

It is recommended to carry out it within the following time frames:

  • I – 2–3 days before flowering;
  • II – a few days after the end of flowering;
  • III – 10–12 days before harvest.

The first three periods of foliar feeding coincide with the periods of spraying grapes against fungal diseases. With a high load on the grapevine with tassels, the number of foliar fertilizing increases to 6–8, but they do not replace regular root fertilizing.

Trimming

In the practice of viticulture, certain names for parts of the bush have been established, consisting of an underground and an above-ground part. The root belongs to the underground.

The main ground ones include:

  • Sleeves. As they grow, they thicken and can reach 40 cm in diameter, and the length of many varieties ranges from 70–80 cm to 5 m. Kishmish is a long-sleeved grape variety.
  • Escape. Annual vines that grow from the buds of last year's vines. They have nodes, internodes, and buds are formed in the axils of the leaves, from which stepchildren grow. Overwintering buds are formed at the base of the stepsons. By autumn, the shoot becomes woody, the color changes to brown, and this process is called ripening of the vine.
  • Kidneys. If the bud has the conception of inflorescences, then it is called fruiting. If she develops the rudiments of antennae, she will be infertile. If a tendril has formed on a growing shoot before the inflorescence appears, then there will be no inflorescence and, accordingly, a cluster on this shoot.

In addition to these parts, grapes have leaves, inflorescences, tendrils, a flower, a bunch and a berry. In the first year after planting, it is important to form 1–2 strong shoots from a young bush. They are tied to trellises to protect them from wind and breakage. In the fall, the mature vine is pruned into 3 eyes.

In the second year, before sheltering for the winter, 2 vines are left for fruiting, and 1 vine for replacement. In autumn, in the third year of the bush’s life, 4 mature vines are left for fruiting and 2 for replacement. Fruiting vines are pruned on the 8th eye, and replacement vines are pruned on the 4th eye.

Possible diseases and pests, ways to get rid of them

Common diseases:

  • Mildew. Young leaves, inflorescences, and berries are most susceptible to diseases. Control measures: cinneb, cuprozan, chomecin.


Grape diseases and their treatment

  • Oidium. A fungal disease affects shoots, leaves, and berries. Control measures: preparations containing sulfur.
  • Gray and white rot. The disease develops after heavy rains, sunburn or mildew. Bunches and berries are affected. Control measures: euparen, spraying with a solution of baking soda.
  • Chlorosis. The cause is impaired plant nutrition and partial damage to the root system. It is expressed by yellowing of the leaves, which starts from the edges and spreads along the veins.

If the bush is not treated, the leaves dry out and fall off. Control measures: spraying with iron sulfate, adding manganese sulfate and iron sulfate solution to the soil.

To prevent the disease, grape bushes should be sprayed with fungicides at strictly defined times and additionally after heavy rains. Systematic thinning of bushes by breaking off shoots, pinching, removing excess leaf parts, especially around bunches, will help prevent diseases and preserve the harvest.

Peculiarities

Many sultana varieties retain good resistance to diseases and fungal infections. The grapes do not require any special care; they respond well to ordinary measures. Many varieties have beautiful large clusters and delicious aromatic berries.


Kishmish grapes can be harvested with the first light frosts

The bunch remains on the bush for a long time, unlike other heat-loving varieties. They can be harvested with the first slight frost, this makes the taste much brighter. The disadvantages include the fact that it should be thoroughly covered for the winter, since this is a heat-loving variety. The growth of sultana bushes is very strong; they have to be given a lot of space.

The Kishmish grape has long and firmly won its place among other varieties. According to reviews from gardeners, many people fell in love with it for the beauty of its brushes, reminiscent of little people, the power of the bush, and its unique taste. Every year several new hybrid varieties appear, descriptions and photos of which can be found in this article.

Author: Belyaeva Anna

Zaporozhye

The Kishmish Zaporozhye grape belongs to the III-IV class of seedlessness. There are about 70 varieties of this species. It was selected in Zaporozhye by crossing the Rusbol and Victoria species.

The grape variety Kishmish Zaporozhye serves as a pollinator for early-middle, late Vineyards. The culture is frost-resistant and tolerates low temperatures down to -25°C. It has a stable harvest. It is fully pollinated and is often overloaded with fruits, which forces gardeners to thin out the ovaries.

Description of the bush

The shoots have an average and high growth rate, especially in the rootstocks C 04, Kobera 5BB. Shoots can ripen completely.

Clusters of Kishmish Zaporozhye are distinguished by their pointed shape and low density of berry distribution. Weigh 1300-1500 g.

The berries are identical in shape - elongated, and differ in their small size - 18x16 mm. the grapes are dark - reddish or lilac. The pulp is juicy, fleshy, reminiscent of marmalade. The presence of rudiments and seeds does not affect the taste.

Disadvantages of the variety

Disadvantages of Kishmish Zaporozhye:

  • heavy separation of berries from the grape stem;
  • proliferation of many shoots;
  • attack of berries by wasps due to their sweetness.

The plant has poor resistance to fungal diseases: downy mildew, oidium, powdery mildew, gray mold. Preventive and therapeutic treatment with fungicides is included in basic plant care.

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