Caring for cherries in the fall: treatment for diseases, how to treat them for pests, preparing the tree for the winter, whether it needs to be whitened, how to care for a young tree

There are a lot of complaints from gardeners that trees are bleeding resin (crying).
Let's try to figure out why this happens. This non-infectious disease is called gymmosis or gum disease, and it mainly affects stone fruits. Treatment of cherries in the fall against diseases and pests is mandatory - in the spring many treatments cannot be carried out, since the cherries will bleed out their juice. It appears on trees already affected by diseases such as clasterosporiasis or moneliasis, as well as on plants damaged during unfavorable wintering or severe pruning of trees. In addition, trees grown on acidic and highly moist soils suffer from gimmosis, more often after excessive application of manure and nitrogen fertilizers.

Features of caring for cherries in autumn

In autumn, cherry trees stop growing young shoots. But it is during this period of growth dormancy that future flower buds are born and lignification of the trunk occurs. In order for spring flowering to be successful, the plant’s energy reserves are replenished in advance with the help of fertilizers.

In the autumn, pests become active before hibernation. They successfully attach themselves to a tree trunk, spend the winter there, and wake up at temperatures above +15°C. Moreover, they can lay eggs in the tree, from which offspring will develop in the future. Effective methods of pest control are a thorough inspection of the trunk and its treatment with fungicides and insecticides.

As cold weather approaches, cherries need to insulate their roots - otherwise severe frosts may damage them.

Cherry pests: prevention and control

Like many other crops, cherries are often affected by various pests that can be found in any area.

Aphid

Aphids are one of the most common garden insects. It feeds on plant sap, which is easily obtained from leaves and young shoots, resulting in the leaves curling into a dense ball. The affected parts of the plant lose viability and die.

Infestation by aphids can greatly weaken the plant and reduce its viability.

Standard preventive measures:

correct formation of the crown of young seedlings and regular sanitary pruning,
whitewashing of the trunk,
timely cleaning and burning of fallen leaves,
caring for the tree trunk (regular loosening and weeding).

To repel aphids from cherries, you can sow dill, thyme, fennel, marigolds or low-growing nasturtium in the tree trunk.

If the cherry is affected by aphids, then you can use the following treatment methods, after first removing the most affected shoots:

Spraying the crown with Iskra. The treatment should be carried out before the ovary appears, on a dry, cloudy day, preparing the drug according to the instructions.
Spraying the crown with Fitoverm. You can treat cherries with this product immediately after flowering, preparing it according to the instructions. For processing, you also need to choose a dry, cloudy day.
Treatment with tar soap solution. To prepare it, you need to dilute 100 g of finely grated soap in 10 liters of warm water. Applicable at any time.
Spraying with herbal infusions. Used during the formation of buds, immediately after flowering and 10 days before harvest: Dandelion infusion. Pour 3 liters of hot water over the foliage (400 g) and roots (200 g) and leave for 3 hours. Then add water to a volume of 10 liters. Treatment should be carried out in the morning no later than 10-00 or in the evening after 18-00 in dry weather.
Infusion of tomato tops. Pour 5 kg of green leaves (you can also use cut shoots) into 10 liters of water and boil for 30 minutes over low heat. Cool and add 30 g of grated laundry soap. Before use, dilute the resulting decoction with warm water in a ratio of 1:3. It is advisable to use the infusion before 10-00 and not earlier than 18-00 in dry weather.
Infusion of potato tops. Pour 1 kg of fresh or 600 g of dry tops (use only healthy greens) with 10 liters of boiling water and let it brew for 3 hours. It is advisable to use the infusion before 10-00 and not earlier than 18-00 in dry weather.

Treatment with ash solution. Can be used at any time. You can prepare it in several ways:

Pour sifted and crushed ash (500 g) into 1.5 liters of boiling water and leave covered for 3 days. Then bring the solution to a volume of 10 liters with warm water. Treatment should be carried out in the morning no later than 10-00 or in the evening after 18-00 in dry weather.

Pour sifted and crushed ash (300 g) into 2 liters of boiling water and boil over medium heat for 20–30 minutes. Strain, bring to a volume of 10 liters and add 50 g of finely grated laundry soap. Treatment should be carried out in the morning no later than 10-00 or in the evening after 18-00 in dry weather.

When spraying, do not forget to treat the back side of the leaves, since this is where aphids hide.

Ants

Ants are attracted to the sweet smell of cherries, so these insects can greatly damage the harvest by eating ripe berries. In addition, ants are carriers of aphids, and cherries can be seriously damaged by infestation with these pests.

Ants are carriers of aphids

The fight against ants includes repelling pests from the cherry and destroying the anthill:

Using a catch belt. You can buy it ready-made, or you can make it yourself. To do this, you need to take a strip of polyethylene 25 cm wide, wrap it twice around the trunk and lubricate it with grease, tar or resin, making sure that the substance does not get on the bark - it can cause a burn. The height of the bandage is approximately 80 cm. Renew the adhesive layer as necessary.

Sticky trap effectively helps control ants

Using a belt made of wool fabric impregnated with carbolic acid. Ants don't like this smell. Change the bandage every 3 days, the height of the fastening is the same.
Hanging bunches of wormwood, tansy or garlic arrows can help, but this method has a drawback: the herbs quickly lose their scent and dry out, so the ants may return. Because of this, it is more suitable as an aid.
Creation of mechanical barriers. This can be a tire cut into two halves and filled with water, which must be placed in a ditch dug around the cherry tree, a rope greased with Vaseline and wrapped around the base of the cherry trunk, a “skirt” made of plasticine, secured with the wide end up and filled with water.
Whitewashing the trunk. The lime sticks to the paws, making it more difficult for the ants to move.
Use of special preparations (Muravyin, Muratsid). There are several disadvantages: aerosols evaporate quickly, and gels can be eaten by other beneficial insects. In this case, when choosing a chemical agent, you can give preference to washer traps, where a larger insect will not be able to get into.

To destroy an anthill located on your site, you can:

use special preparations (Diazinon, Absolut-gel);
use folk remedies: hot ash (fill the anthill with it),
boiling water,
a mixture of laundry soap (you need to finely rub a piece), carbolic acid (10 tbsp) and kerosene (10 tbsp). Dilute in 10 liters of hot water.

If you do not want to use chemicals, then you will have to carry out the treatment several times, changing the products.

cherry fly

This pest is not as dangerous as aphids, but it can also harm your harvest and significantly reduce its quality, because thanks to the cherry fly, the berries become wormy. The fly makes a hole in the berry, lays eggs there, from which larvae subsequently emerge.

The cherry fly causes worms in cherry berries.

There are several ways to protect against cherry flies:

Whitewashing the trunk and skeletal branches. The procedure must be carried out early in the spring so that the larvae overwintering in the bark or soil do not have time to get to the surface and harm the tree.
Digging and processing the tree trunk circle to destroy the pupae in the soil.
Timely harvesting.
Cleaning up fallen fruits.

If cherry fly infection of berries does occur, the following measures can be taken:

Double treatment of wood with a special preparation (usually Molniya, Aktara, Iskra are used). The first spraying is carried out during a mass flight of flies. To determine the beginning of this period, make baits by spreading mouse-proof glue on a piece of cardboard and hanging 2-3 baits on a tree. If in a short period of time (1-3 days) you find at least 20 adhered flies, then you can start processing.
Also, the appearance of cherry flies coincides with the beginning of acacia flowering.
The second spraying must be done after 10 days, but no later than 20 days before harvest. It is advisable to use another drug.

Whitewashing the trunk and skeletal branches.

Digging the tree trunk circle at the end of September - beginning of October and at the end of March - beginning of April.

How to properly care for cherries in autumn

It is impossible to get a high-quality harvest without caring for the tree. Most of the work is carried out in the fall.

Digging up the soil around

Sodding of the tree trunk circle has a negative effect on cherries. To avoid this, mulch the ground around the tree in the summer and dig it up in the fall.

Important! You cannot dig deeper than 15 cm, so as not to damage the roots of the tree.

Watering

After digging and loosening the soil around the tree, water the soil. At least 2 buckets of water are poured under each plant at a temperature higher than the outside air temperature at the time of watering.

The tree trunk area is limited by a trench to prevent water from spilling. Thus, moisture reaches the roots of the plant, which is especially important in winter, because wet soil freezes more slowly.

Top dressing

Fertilizing the soil in the fall supports the plant . Nitrogen is not added to cherry fertilizer, as it starts the growth process and reduces the plant's ability to withstand low temperatures.

Gardeners use compost (for young trees up to 7 years old - 2 kg per 1 m² of trunk circle, for older trees - 3 kg). The best combination is phosphorus + potassium. Non-fruit bearing trees - 2 tbsp. l. superphosphate and 1 tbsp. l. potassium chloride, fruit bearing - 3 tbsp. l. superphosphate and 1.5 tbsp. l. potassium chloride.

Trimming

Pruning increases yields and reduces the risk of disease. Pruning is carried out in two ways: by the thinning method - tree branches are cut off at the base, or by the shortening method - not the entire branch is cut off.

Prune before frost begins. The timing depends on the specific region: from September to November . The cut areas are treated with garden varnish.

Important! If the wounds that appeared on the trunk during sanitation do not have time to heal before winter, there is a risk that the tree will become sick.

Several branches of a plant are not removed in one procedure. This is stress for the plant, which contributes to the occurrence of diseases.

Whitewash

To prevent possible frostbite of the cherry trunk if sudden frosts occur, the trunks of young cherries are wrapped in burlap, spruce branches or newspapers. The bases of the trees are wrapped with plastic mesh, which protects them from rodents.

Mature trees are covered with whitewash. It protects cherry trunks from the negative effects of sunlight and frost, repels insects and small rodents.

Garbage collection

In the autumn, before and after pruning, remove debris from the tree trunk circle. Dry branches and fallen leaves rot and negatively affect the quality of the soil. It is important to get rid of them in time so that pests and pathogens cannot overwinter in them.

Protection from diseases and pests

Important steps in treating wood against pests and diseases:

processing cherries with urea;
getting rid of fallen leaves around the tree;
treatment of wounds and cracks on the trunk;
applying garden varnish to pruning areas;
pruning dry, diseased and broken branches;
spraying the tree with drugs against garden pests, for example, copper sulfate or cypermethrin, which has a wide spectrum of action (cypermethrin is included in the preparations “Tsifoks”, “Mustang”, “Arriro”, “Inta-Vir”).

Pruning cherry trees in spring

It is believed that spring is the best time for pruning stone fruit crops, which means cherries are no exception.

Cherry pruning is carried out until the buds swell and sap begins to flow. In this case, the air temperature should not be lower than 5-10°C. It is advisable to carry out all work on a dry, windless day.

Prepare tools in advance, as well as garden putty for processing cuts - RanNet, Zhivitsa or BlagoSad.

Inspect the tree and outline a pruning pattern to form a tiered crown. To do this, leave those branches that grow at certain levels and remove the unnecessary ones.

The distance from the ground to the first tier is approximately 80-100 cm, from the first to the second tier - 40-50 cm, then between tiers - 30-40 cm.

Remove broken, dry and diseased branches, as well as growth on the trunk below the first tier. Trim branches that thicken the crown.

Avoid over-pruning to avoid severely damaging the tree.

Be sure to coat the cut areas with a healing compound.

How to prune cherries in spring - a detailed master class with photos
Cherry is one of the fastest growing trees, so pruning is a must. But this procedure must be carried out wisely and on time.

How to prepare a tree for winter

To prevent the buds on the cherry from freezing, and the roots and trunk from being damaged by temperature fluctuations, the tree is prepared for the winter as follows:

The branches bend down. Old and dry ones are removed.
Cover the pressed branches with straw or tops.
Cover the soil under the tree with a thick layer of snow if it has already fallen. Sometimes they shovel up the snow, creating a snowdrift.
Cover the barrel with a burlap cover or wrap it with paper.

Pruning a mature tree

Pruning mature bush cherries is done in order to rejuvenate the tree and increase its yield. This procedure is carried out when fruiting decreases. The scheme for pruning cherries in the spring is as follows: reduce the number of branches and shorten them by a third or half the length of the shoot. In addition, it is necessary to remove skeletal and semi-skeletal branches, but not in the same year, so that the tree can bear fruit. You should not remove annual growth.

Old tree-like cherries need to be slightly shortened to annual shoots. Such rejuvenation is necessary when skeletal branches become bare at the base and shoot growth slows down (less than 15 cm per year).

When pruning old trees, you must remember that it is not recommended to get rid of a large number of branches at once; rejuvenation should be carried out in stages, over several years.

Cherry is not a capricious plant. But to get a good harvest, proper care of cherries is necessary in the spring, as well as throughout the year.

Features of care

Care differs depending on the age of the cherry, the region where it is grown, and the type of fruit tree chosen.

Depending on age

Cherries up to 3 years old do not need to be fertilized with minerals, since they do not bear fruit yet. Old cherries are fed every year, as they spend a lot of energy on fruiting and use up all their reserves during the summer season.

Pruning of young trees in autumn is carried out extremely carefully. They are still weak, a large cutting will weaken and destroy the seedlings.

Depending on the region

Suitable regions for the growth and fruiting of cherries are Ukraine, Belarus, the south and central regions of Russia. Growing in the Urals, Siberia and the Far East involves choosing adapted varieties and specific care:

in cold climates, the method of covering cherries is important, since not only the trunk of the plant freezes, but also the buds;
bush cherries require that the bent branches be completely hidden by snow;
in standard varieties, the trunk is insulated, protected from rodents and other pests;
in Siberia, it is preferable to plant cherries from the pit, otherwise they will not take root;
In the middle zone, cherries suffer from moniliosis; regular treatments before flowering with fungicides “Horus” or “Skor” are a mandatory stage of care.

Depending on the type

The types of cherry tree are also important when determining the method of care:

Steppe cherry is resistant to low temperatures. In winter, it is enough to bend the branches and cover them with snow. This cherry is self-sterile, so several more cherries are planted next to it. Strong root system, which is used for further propagation.
Sand cherry is native to North America. Cherry is not demanding on climate conditions; it loves bright places and permeable soil. Resistant to frost and drought.
The ferruginous cherry first appeared in Korea. Loves bright places. Severe frosts harm young shoots, so they require careful insulation and shelter.
Gray cherry is drought-resistant, but suffers greatly from frost. This cherry grows slowly. Loves bright sunny areas and well-drained soil.

Fungal diseases

Fungi reproduce in spring and summer in fairly cool (8–14°C), but rainy and windy weather. These diseases are highly contagious, so take care of all the trees in your garden, otherwise the fungus may spread to other crops.

If you notice signs of any fungal disease on your neighbors' trees, then also inform them about the need to begin treatment.

Coccomycosis (reddish-brown spotting)

The first symptom of coccomycosis is the appearance of reddish-brown spots up to 2 mm in diameter on the outside of the leaves. As a rule, this occurs between the end of May and the beginning of June. If the cherry is severely affected, then brown spots may appear on the berry stalks and young shoots. Towards mid-July, small spots begin to merge into large ones. On the reverse side, the leaf is covered with tubercles - spore deposits of light pink or light gray color. In mid-to-late August, such leaves turn prematurely yellow and curl, and then fall off.

With coccomycosis, the cherry sheds its leaves early, which greatly reduces the tree’s ability to prepare for winter.

The crop also suffers from coccomycosis: the skin of the berries becomes covered with brown spots, and the pulp becomes watery. In addition, the disease greatly undermines the viability of the cherry, and the tree may freeze in winter. The disease is widespread in central Russia and Siberia; in warm regions it is quite rare.

The most resistant to coccomycosis cherry varieties are Shokoladnitsa, Turgenevka, Bulatnikovskaya, Malinovka. Also, large-fruited felt cherries (Alice, Delight, Fairy Tale) practically do not suffer from this disease.

Prevention of cherry coccomycosis:

Take care of your garden in a timely manner. Collect and burn all garbage, especially fallen leaves, in the fall, since fungal spores overwinter in them. Not only cherry trees, but also other trees need to be trimmed, fed and whitened.
In early spring or mid-October, dig up the soil in the garden, including the tree trunks of cherries and other trees.
Whiten the trunk and skeletal branches regularly. The most suitable time is from mid to late September (at a temperature of 4–5°C). The foliage should completely fall off. Whitewashing should be done on a dry day. A few days before, clear the trunk of old bark. Composition of the mixture: 2 kg of slaked lime + 300 g of copper sulfate + 10 liters of water. The thickness of the applied layer is 2–3 mm.
Repeated whitewashing should be done in the spring before buds open. Usually this is the period from the end of March to the beginning of April, the temperature should not be lower than 5°C.
If it is not possible to whiten the tree in the fall, then in early to mid-October, wash the trunk and skeletal branches of the cherry with a urea solution (30–50 g of granules per 10 liters of water). If you have already whitened the tree, then pour this solution onto the soil around the trunk to disinfect it.

Treatment:

In the spring, during the period of bud swelling (early to mid-May), treat the cherries and the soil in the tree trunk circle with Bordeaux mixture. Preparation: dilute copper sulfate (300 g) in 1 liter of boiling water. In a separate bowl, dilute quicklime (400 g) in 1 liter of boiling water. Dilute both mixtures with 4 liters of warm water, then strain the lime solution and mix it with the salt solution.
Instead of such a solution, you can use copper oxychloride (the most popular drug is Hom). Dilute 40 g of powder in 10 liters of warm water. If necessary, repeat the treatment 2-3 more times with an interval of 10 days.
You can prepare Bordeaux mixture yourself or buy a ready-made mixture
When the buds appear, spray the cherries with a solution of Horus (2-3 g per 10 liters of water).
After 2-3 weeks after the end of flowering, spray the cherries with a solution of the drug Skor (1 ampoule per 10 liters of water), after completely cutting out the most affected branches.
At the end of August, treat the cherries with Bordeaux mixture. Preparation: dilute copper sulfate (100 g) in 1 liter of boiling water. In a separate bowl, dilute quicklime (150 g) in 1 liter of boiling water. Dilute both mixtures with 4 liters of warm water, then strain the lime solution and mix it with the salt solution.
Whiten the trunk and skeletal branches or treat the tree and trunk circle with a urea solution.
Whitewashing cherries is one of the measures for the prevention and treatment of coccomycosis

Video: cherry coccomycosis

Moniliosis (monilial burn)

With moniliosis, cherry flowers and leaves suddenly begin to dry out, acquiring a brownish-brown color. This is especially noticeable on young annual shoots. If the development of the disease began during the period of fruit ripening, then they become covered with dark spots and dry out. The disease is often found in the European part of Russia and Western Siberia.

The varieties Anadolskaya, Tamaris, Turgenevka, Molodezhnaya, Bystrinka have the greatest resistance to moniliosis. The least resistant varieties are Lyubskaya and Vladimirskaya, as well as felt cherry.

With moniliosis, cherry branches look burnt

If you doubt that your cherry tree is sick with moniliosis, then cut off the affected branch and look at the cut. The presence of black rings is a sign of this disease.

Prevention:

When planting, try to place the seedlings at a distance of at least 2 m from each other, since monoliosis often affects crowded cherries.
Do not choose a place for your cherry orchard in lowlands or on excessively wet soils.
Carry out tree care in a timely manner (properly form the crown, carry out sanitary pruning, apply fertilizers in a timely manner, remove and burn all garbage in the fall).
Regularly dig up and disinfect the tree trunk circle. A solution of urea or 1% Bordeaux mixture is suitable for these purposes. Digging can be done after the leaves fall or immediately after the snow melts.
In spring and autumn, whiten the trunk and skeletal branches.

Treatment of moniliosis:

During bud break, treat the cherries with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.
Instead of Bordeaux mixture, at the same time you can use special preparations (Horus, Kuproskat, Topsin-M), preparing them according to the instructions. Typically, 2-3 sprays are required at intervals of 10 days.
After flowering, use the preparations Fitosporin-M and Fitolavin, preparing solutions according to the instructions.
Remove infected branches in a timely manner. Remember that pruning should be carried out by capturing 10–15 cm of healthy wood. If you need to remove a branch larger than 1 cm in diameter, be sure to cover the cut with garden varnish. Burn all cut shoots immediately.
After leaf fall, but no later than the end of September, whitewash the cherries and treat the tree trunk. If this is not possible, then in early October, wash the trunk and skeletal branches with a solution of urea or 1% Bordeaux mixture and water the tree trunk circle.

Video: remedy for stone fruit moniliosis

Bacterial cancer

If you notice any signs of bacterial cancer, begin treatment immediately, since cherries, especially young ones, can die within 1-2 seasons.

How plant parts change due to cancer:

the flowers become brown;
Yellowing watery spots appear on the leaves, which then turn brown. The dead tissue falls out, causing holes to form;
a thick orange liquid is released on the shoots;
the bark becomes covered with cracks, growths and blisters, and subsequently peels off;
the fruits become covered with dark spots and rot.

The disease is most often found in areas with warm climates.

There is another type of cancer - black, but it manifests itself mainly on pome crops (pear, apple), and cherries are not affected by it.

If a cherry is affected by bacterial cancer, then numerous cracks form on the bark

Prevention:

Do not forget about standard care measures: the formation of the seedling crown,
regular sanitary pruning,
cleaning and burning fallen leaves.

Take care of the tree trunk: dig up in spring and autumn and disinfect with 1% Bordeaux mixture or urea solution.

Don't forget to bleach the cherries.

When processing cherries (pruning, grafting), use only clean tools.

Treatment for bacterial cancer:

Remove all affected branches immediately. Cut out the diseased area to healthy tissue, grasping it by 4–5 cm. Wash the cut areas with 1% Bordeaux mixture or 5% carbolic acid solution and cover.
Garden pitch, oil paint or a mixture of clay and fresh mullein, taken in equal proportions, are suitable as a putty material. As a result of mixing, you should get a thick mixture, reminiscent of butter in consistency. If necessary, it can be slightly diluted with warm water so that it sticks well. The covered wound can be tied with burlap.
After pruning, feed the cherries. To do this, add a solution of superphosphate (350 g), potassium nitrate (250 g) and chicken manure (300–400 g) into the outer furrow of the tree trunk circle. To prepare the solution, soak the droppings for 6 days in 10 liters of water, mineral fertilizers - in 10 liters of water for 2 days. Mix both solutions before use. 20–25 liters are consumed for 1 cherry.
In the spring (before the buds begin to open) and in the fall (during and after the end of leaf fall), treat the cherries with 1% Bordeaux mixture or Hom (80 g per 10 l).
3–5 days after spraying, whiten the tree and treat the tree trunk.

If the tree does not respond to treatment, then it is necessary to uproot it, and the place where it grew is generously spilled with a solution of potassium permanganate (50 g per 10 liters of water). If possible, try not to plant any plants there for 3-4 years.

Scab

A symptom of scab is the appearance of brown spots on the leaves. As the disease progresses, the leaf blades dry out, curl up and crumble. Unripe fruits stop growing and dry out, while ripe ones become covered with cracks and lose their taste. According to gardeners, scab does not pose a strong threat to the life of the tree, but can significantly reduce its yield. The disease is often found in the southern and central regions of Russia.

Advice from experienced gardeners

Experienced gardeners recommend:

Do not buy trees secondhand and do not skimp on buying a seedling. The tree lives for a long time and will bear fruit for more than one year. It is better if it is a healthy plant to begin with.
Plant the tree close to fences for protection from the wind.
Choose a planting site with little moisture in the soil. Avoid over-watering.
Carry out basic gardening work 1-1.5 months before the first frost.
When planting in autumn, cover the young specimen with soil to a height of 30-35 cm.
Before planting, place the cherry root system in a solution of humus and clay to improve survival rate.
Do not use fresh manure as fertilizer as it will burn the plant's roots.

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How to treat a cherry trunk

Correctly treating cherries in the fall against diseases means making your life easier in the spring. Fitolavin treatment is effective for therapeutic and preventive purposes. It is carried out twice during the growing season; it can be applied before harvesting the fruits. The interval between treatments is at least 5 days, more is possible.

The product is diluted in warm water (20 ml per 10 liters), applied from a spray bottle in small drops (“mist”). Precautionary measures: protect your face and respiratory organs with goggles and a respirator. Contact with skin is not dangerous; contact with soil is undesirable, but not dangerous if only once. After processing, mineral fertilizers are applied under the roots of the cherry, and the lower part of the trunk is whitened.

Whitewashing the trunk

According to experts, it is necessary to bleach cherries in the autumn. But if the summer resident did not have the opportunity to do this on time or the autumn whitewash was washed away by rain, then the procedure needs to be carried out in the spring.

Photo: Pixabay

It is recommended to do the work at the end of February or early March. Such an early date is due to difficult weather conditions.

Winds, recent frosts, and bright sunlight have a bad effect on cherries, and the whitening composition can prevent cracks from appearing.

It is recommended to treat mature trees with lime, and young trees with a liquid chalk solution.